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CHINA
THE PKESENT CRISIS
I'KINTKD liV
SjPOmSWOOiJii AM) CO., NkW-sTKliai SyUAllM
1,0 N" DOS
CHINA
AND
THE PEESENT OEISIS
WITH NOTES ON A VISIT TO JAPAN AND KOBEA
BY
JOSEPH WALTON, M.P.
WITH A MAP OF CHINA
LONDON SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON & COMPANY
(LIMITED)
St. Sunstaii's Ujousc FETTER LAXE, FLEET STREET, E.G.
1900
[All rii,'hL< reserro i]
PEEFACE
The eyes of the whole civilised world are now turned towards China, where it appears only too certain that one of the most terrible tragedies which history has ever recorded has just taken place.
I spent some eight months recently in travel through China, Japan, and Korea, with the special object of ascertaining from the best informed men on the spot what the political and commercial situation really was.
I visited most of the centres of political interest and of commercial activity, and also journeyed over 5,000 miles in the interior of China. This is my only justification for venturing to issue this book, which is without literary pretensions. It simply contains a brief account of my journey and some of the information I gathered, which may possibly be of interest in view of the present acute crisis in the Far East. I have introduced on pp. 224-48 the statement I made in Parliament on the 30tli of March last, which reviewed the situation as it then appeared to me, and I have added a short chapter
vi CHINA AND THE PRESENT CRISIS
dealing with subsequent events and the necessity for the re-assertion of our rightful position alongside other nations in the affairs of China. No one can over-estimate the importance of the British Govern- ment pursuing a firm and definite policy with resolution and vigour at this juncture. A wise and just settlement in South Africa is important ; but I venture to say that it is of tenfold greater importance to the commercial interests of the British Empire that our Government should at the end of hostilities in China insist in concert with other Powers on the setting up of a stable and enlightened Government, so that China may be preserved for the Chinese and the u'hole Empire remain open equally to the trade of all nations.
JOSEPH WALTON.
Juhj 24, 1900.
CONTENTS
CHAPTER I
A VISIT TO NEWCHWANG
Wei-hai-Wei-'-Clicfoo — Voyage to Newchwang— British and Eussian railway termini — Newchwang — Trip up the llussian railway from Newchwang —Eussian hospitality — Expedition up the Russian railway ~Ta-shih-ehao — Inter- national disputes — Additional British and Eussian conces- sions—Interview with the resident engineer — Newchwang trade — Chinese Imperial Customs revenue — Tiffin with Chinamen -Missions in Manchuria— Advantages of Man- churia—Newchwang to Chef 00
CHAPTER 11
CHEFOO TO TIENTSIN
The Ixi-ho and Taku Forts — Tong-ku— Evidence of British trade — Tientsin — From Tientsin to Pekin — Pekin — Visit to mission station— Interview with M. Kroupensky — Call on Japanese Minister— The Tartar city wall — City walls, Pekin — Forbidden City, Pekiu— The Government of China- Deposition of the Emperor — Pekin eunuchs — Interview with Prince Clung — Interview with Li-llung-Chang- Ecligion — Secret societies — Mr. Hillier ...... 27
viii CHINA AND THE PEESENT CEISIS CHAPTER III
BRITISH TRADE AND BRITISH NEGLECT IN CHINA
PAGE
English Settlement, Tientsin— Trade of Tientsin — Russian intrigues -Trip up Shan-hai-Kwan-Newchwang Railway — Coal-miuing in China — Pei-tai-ho— Baron Von Ketteler — Sir Robert Hart — Chin wang tao — Pei-tai-ho to Tong-Ku — A lucky choice -50
CHAPTER IV
A SISIT TO WEI-HAI-WEI
An iiicideiit of tlie Chino-Japanese war — Wei-hai-Wei — A ques- tion for tlie naval authorities — Chinese troops — The English sphere— Hospitality afloat — Railway communication — Pos- sibilities of trade — Transfer of Wei-hai-Wei to Germany . 64
CHAPTER V
A VISIT TO PORT ARTHUR
Seizure by Russia — Port Arthur — West Port lagoon — Stopped outside the Russian forts -Russian designs and British inaction 75
CHAPTER VI
A.'IElilCAN AND JAPANESE TRADE COMPETITION
Chin;i. ihlaud mission — Trade of Chefoo— My Chinese secretary - -Stranded at Chefoo— Visit to Kiao-Chau — Trade of Kiao- Chau — Kiao-Chau to Shanghai — Shanghai — Barnsley bobbins — The inland waterways of China — Chinese bridges — Con.'K.rant fishing — Birds, game, and insects — Chinese river life — Great sea wall — An ex-missionary at the wheel — Yangt-zo cxpediiion — Silk lilature works .... 84
CONTENTS ix
CHAPTER VII
LOWER REACHES OF THE YANGTSZE
[■AGE
Chinkiang — British fleet in 1842 — Nankin— Interview with Viceroy Liu-Kun-Yi — Nankin pagoda — Ming tombs — Sport in the Yangtszc valley — Kiangsi — Kiu Kiang— Trade of Kiu Kiang — British bluejackets to the front - Reception by Chang Chill Tung — Han Yang ironworks— Han Yang Arsenal — Military college — Brick-tea factory — Chinaman dying on roadway uncared for — Interview with the Taotai of Hankow — Trade of Hankow — Missionary work — From Hankow to Ichang — Sha-sze — Sea of graves lOG
CHAPTER VIII
THE UPrER YANGTSZE EXPEDITION
Yangtsze trackers — An unsuitable craft — Chinese cooks — Broken adrift— Porpoises — The Yeh-tan Piapid— Chinese servants — Ah Sam — Chin-chinning Joss — Water supply — Attitude of the Chinese— Our mysterious vessel — Stoned by the Chinese — Wrecks and wreckage on the Yangtsze— Weather — Scenery — Monkeys — Lukan gorge — Kwei-Chow — Chinese coal - The Wushan gorge — Transhipping to steam- launch 136
CHAPTER IX
THE VOYAGE UP THE YANGTSZE — CGUHmCed
Kwei-chow-fu — Chinese officials— Szechuan — Absence of birds ar.d animal life — Novel duck-reaving— Gold — Fengtu-Cheng — Arrival at Chung-King 151
CHAPTER X
A RECORD JOURNEY IN TPIE INTERIOR
Tlic political and commercial situation in Szechuan — British Consul at Chung-King — How a Chinaman overreached bim-
CHINA AND THE PRESENT CRISIS
self — Unpunctuality of Chinamen — Sin-t'an, or New Eapid — The Yeh-t'an Eapid — The quickest trip on record — First passage down rapids and whirlpools by steam — Ichan;^ to Hankow 159
CHAPTER XI
SHANGHAI TO HONG KONG
Entrance to Hong Kong - City of Hong Kong — Admiral Seymour — Kau-Lung— -Evacuation of Sam Chun — Public Gardens — Happy Valley — Railways — West Eiver Expedition — Pi- racy on the West Eiver — Stuck on a sandbank — Wuchau — Character of the country— Nanning-fu — Scenery — Lepers — Boat life on the West Eiver — Novel method of shooting — Pawnshops — Stranded again — Canton— Temple of 500 Genii — The Examination Hall— Trade of Canton — Boat- women — Waterways — Duckbreeding — At Hong Kong aj^^ii'"; — St. Andrew's Day Ball — Visit to Kang-yu-Wei . . 16*j
CHArTER XII
FAREWELL TO CHINA
French Indo-China— Saigon and Cholon — French Indo-China and the protective system — French activity and British in- activity— Climate of Saigon — Singapore — Malay Peninsula — Visit to Selangor — Kuala-Kubu — Advantage of British rule — Kuala-Lumpcr — Nationalisation of land and minerals — Johore— Siam — Singapore to Colombo — Decadence of British shipping ......... 182
CHAPTER XIII
SINGAPORE TO COLOMBO
Penang— Island of Sumatra — German shipbuilding — Ceylon— Peradeniya and its gardens — The museum — Christmas in Ceylon— At a tea plantation— Tea factory— Hadgalla Bo-
CONTENTS xi
tanical gardens— Cocoa-nut.T — Mineral wealth and precious stones— Pearl fisheries — Railways — Colombo harbour works — Trade, debt, taxation, and revenue —Home through India — Objects in view 198
CHAPTER XIV
INDIV
A hard- working; viceroy — Railways in India — Interviews— The dinner of the bishops— Admiral Bosanquet — The famine and plague — Loyalty of natives— India and China — Free trade in India and China — Homeward bound .... 21''
STATEMENT MADE IN THE HOUSE OF COMMONS
BRITISH, COMMERCIAL, AND POLITICAL INTERESTS IN CHINA
CHAPTER XV
THE PRESENT CRISIS . . . iMH
CHAPTER XVI
N0-^;ES on a VISIT to japan and KOREA
The old oi'der chan-'oth ' — Volcanoes— Vegetable products —Fish and birds— Native occupations — Protective works — Novel carriages — Cu-tom-house experience — Railways — Similarity in position of Japan and England — Education — Newspapers — Taxation of land— Graduated taxation — Com- mercial dishonesty — Porcelain and cloisonne— Japanese coal— Tokyo Arsenal— Mountain resorts— Flowers and fruit — Japanese tov.n at ni.ilit — Japanese habits —
xii CHINA AND THE PEESENT CRISIS
Japanese women— Japanese funerals— Religion — Jurisdic- tion over foreigners- -rolitical- Marquis Ito— Count Okuma — Viscount Aoki— A Japanese dinner — Kobe to Nagasaki — The Inland Sea of Japan — The Battle of the Bottles — By railway to Nagasaki — Nagasaki — Works and mines — Japanese workmen — British commercial interests— Island of Tsu- shima— Korea — First visit toa missionary station in the Far East — Dangerous coasts — Tlie Korean Peninsula —Fisheries — Korean goldfields — Railways — The Emperor and the Government — Attitude of Russia and Japan —Port Hamilton —Trade — Revenue Currency — Money-lending---Religion — Education — Animals -Race — Korean habits and dress — Amusements — Expedition to the Korean capital — General scenery — Seoul — Electric tramv/ay -Foreign Legations — The return journey 257
INDEX iilM
CHINA AND THE PRESENT CRISIS
CHAPTER I
A VISIT TO NEWCHWANG
Owing to the engrossing nature of the situation in Cliina, I have decided to begin with my arrival in that country in August 1899, and to place at the end the notes on my visit to Japan and Korea.
WEI-IIAI-WEI
Tlie first port of call in China was Chefoo, and the passage from Chemulpo occupied twenty-six hours. Early in the morning, standing in pretty close to the shore, we sighted Wei-hai-Wei. I had an excellent view of the eastern entrance, which is throe miles across, and too shallow for men-of-war to enter. We also passed the western inlet, which is a narrow, deep-water (>ntrance. On a mountainous island l»etWfen these two entrances the naval station is situated, and a site has been selected which will be invisil)le from the sea, and have a natural and complete protection against bombardment from out- side. 11. M.S. 'Powerful' was l}'ing at anchor. I
2 CHINA AND THE PRESENT CEISIS
examined the chart, and found that over the greater portion of Wei-hai-Wei Bay the water is only three or three and a half fathoms. The deep-water anchorage appears to be limited in extent, and unfortunately it is not protected from the fire of an enemy by the island, but lies directly opposite the deep-water entrance. The Chinese had fortifications on the shore, but these, I understand, the British are disregarding. There is a range of high bare hills at the back of Wei-hai-Wei, and practically no timber, and a very sparse population along the coast. I was told by a man likely to be well informed that the Japanese really effected the capture of Port Arthur by bribery, and that they had even offered a sum of money to Admiral Ting, the Chinese commander at Wei-hai-AVei, if he would hand over that place to them. This Ting indignantly refused, and fought to the death at the head of his blue-jackets ; the Chinese soldiers fled.
I was informed that from time to time the range of the tide varies very much at Wei-hai-Wei. Not long ago it was so low, even in the deep-water portion of the harbour, that all the vessels were aground, including, of course, the men-of-war.
CHEFOO
As we approached Chefoo, in brilliant sunshine, it looked quite an attractive place, and, as seen from the sea, large houses, built of brick or stone, seemed to predominate, in marked contrast to the Korean towns recently visited.
VOYAGE TO NEWCIIWANG 3
The European settlement is on a fairly well timbered bluff, immediately over the sea. Fortu- nately, the English Consul, Mr. Sundyus, came on board expecting to meet Dr. Morrison, the Times correspondent, from Pekin, who, however, had not come by our steamer. I was taken ashore by him, and went up to the Consulate for tiffin. On the way I ascertained that one of the Butterfield & Swire's steamers would start at two o'clock for Newchwang direct, and though it was then 12.45, I arranged passages, sent my Chinese boy to transfer the baggage from one steamer to the other, and left by the ' Tarasui ' for Newel iwang.
VOYAGE TO XEWCHWANG
The ' Tamsui ' is an English ship, and I much appreciated the absence of smells when we went on board. She is really a cargo steamer, with little accommodation for passengers, but we were made most comfortable, the captain and otlicers doing everything in their power to give us a pleasant time. The food was wholesome and excellent, and to know how to appreciate this it was only necessary to have l^een for more than a week on board the Japanese steamer ' Higo-Maru.' During the first part of the trip the sea was like glass ; the moon rose in a clear sky, and it was snnply delightful on the bridge as we glided northwards past the headland four miles outside of Port Arthur, on which there is a revolving light. Early in the morning there was a thunderstorm and a heavy downpour of rain. There were nearly
a 2
4 CHINA AND THE PRESENT CRISIS
200 Chinese passengers lying about on deck, and I was sorry for the poor fellows as the torrent of rain drove them to find shelter in some stuffy region below. They exhibited considerable curiosity in regard to the European passengers, filing past the small cabin and gazing in on us with an ex- pression of interest on their faces. The majority of them were on their way to the railway construc- tion works near Newchwang. They paid only 2s. per head for the passage, a distance of 210 miles, and out of this they were fed. Living, however, as they do, mainly upon rice, the cost of a day's food was not more than 4|tZ.
Shortly before we reached the Xewchwang Bar a violent summer squall accompanied by thunder overtook us, followed by a storm of hailstones, which when picked up off the deck were solid pieces of ice, some of them nearly an inch in diameter and more than half an inch in thickness. We had a bad half- hour, and the steamer had to lie-to, but the storm then passed off.
We took a pilot on board and entered the river leading up to Kewchwang, which is some fifteen miles from its mouth. The river is very winding, and has flat marshy land on both sides. As we approached Newchwang the shores were lined by thousands of junks and barges. The junks trade a long distance, going even as far south as Shanghai and Hong Kong. The barges bring bean-cake, bean-oil, and ))eans or peas (of which there is an enormous pro- duction in Afanchuria) down from the interior, and
RAILWAY TERMINI 5
then moor in the river and watch the course of the market. What they bring is sold by auction, and the market fluctuates i'rom day to day ; when they think a good opportunity has arrived they dispose of their cargo. The steamer we came by would take Ijack about a two-thirds cargo of these products, this being as much as she could carry to cross the bar with safety. There were many steamers lying in the river, chiefly owned by the firms of Butterfield & Swire, Jardine, Matheson, & Co., and the China Trading Company ; also a number of Japanese steamers.
On the port side from the bridge there was a capital view of the construction works of the Ncwchwang Extension Line, which has been such a bone of contention as regards the terms upon which British money was to be advanced for its construction. There is a wharf at which the contractors will unload their railway material close to the site of the terminus.
EEITISH AND RUSSIAN RAILWAY TERMINI
A more or less indefinite arrangement has been made for a further concession of land to the British on the river bank at a point where it is nothing but a malarial swamp. Both this and the railway terminus arc on the wrong side of the river — viz. the opposite side to the town of Ncwchwang, which is an obvious disadvantage. On the other hand the Ivussian railway terminus is on the same side of the river as the town, and has at its back the rich country of ^Manchuria from which to draw its trafiic when the railway is completed. The river being navigable for
6 CHINA AND THE PEESENT CEISIS
200 miles up into the interior, a certain propor- tion of produce will, no doubt, continue to come down by water, and of that the Newchwang Extension Lino may secure a fair share. But I fear that the extensive system of railways which Kussia is building through Manchuria will, in the near future, secure for her the bulk of its trade.
NEWCHWANG
Newchwang is the only treaty port of the Chinese province of Manchuria, extending over 390,000 square miles, with an excellent climate, fertile soil, great forests, and mineral wealth. Eussia is rapidly placing herself in military occupation of this great country. She has seized Port Arthur and Ta-lien- AVan, and is making the former impregnable. She has now about 40,000 soldiers in these places, the laying down of a system of railways throughout the country is rapidly proceeding, and at every railway station Russian soldiers are to be found. It was therefore with great interest that I paid this flying visit to Manchuria, to ascertain as far as I could how matters really stood.
On landing, I called upon the British Consul, Mr. Hosie. Dr. Daly, the English medical man here, put mo up, and I received a most hearty welcome.
TlUr Ur THE RUSSIAN PvAlLWxVY FROM
NEWCHWAXC;
Armod with a letter of introduction from our Consul, Mr. ilosie, I called upon ]\lr. Titolf, engineer
RAILWAY WORK 7
for the Russian railway from Newchwang north- wards. I was indebted also to the Russian Consul for assistance in bringing us together. The Russian railway terminus is at Nui-chia-tun, above the town of Newchwang. Mr. Titoff undertook to arrange to have me conveyed up from that place to Ta-shih-chao — the junction of the Newchwang branch with the Russian Main Manchurian Railway fourteen miles distant. Captain McSwiney, who speaks Russian perfectly, accompanied me. The roads, owing to the heavy rains, were almost impassable, and though the tide was against us (and when receding, the river runs at the rate of seven knots an hour), we decided to go up the river to the railway. Mr. Bowra, Commissioner of Customs, most kindly placed at our disposal a Customs House boat manned by five stalwart China- men. It took them an hour and a quarter of hard pulling to get us up the three miles. It was some- what difficult to land, as the bank of the river rose sheer up for several feet ; but we managed it by climbing up an apology for a wharf at which railway material is discharged, and found ourselves in the midst of a scene of great activity. Hundreds of men were at work putting together Baldwin locomotives, of which seventy-eight are coming here and seventy- one going to Vladivostock. They were also building wagons and carriages. The wheels and axles and other steel and iron parts are sent from America and Russia, also the main timber frames ready prepared ; these are put together, and the other woodwork is done at the railway terminus, in a number of long
8 CHINA AND THE PEESENT CEISIS
sheds roughly constructed of timber, some of which are covered with corrugated-iron roofing. We found our way to Mr. Titoff's house close by the terminus, and he gave us a real Russian welcome. He made many apologies for being able to provide only tinned meats, as his cook had died of bubonic plague two days before, and as a precautionary measure he had immediately burnt to the ground the kitchen and adjoining rooms in which his servants lived.
EUSSIAX HOSPITALITY
We were offered vodka, Crimean claret, cham- pagne ad lib., beer and aerated drinks, also an unlimited quantity of tea, which was served in huge glasses with sugar but no milk, a little claret being substituted for milk by the Russians. We had excellent chicken soup, tinned Russian sturgeon, salmon, chicken, woodcock, and black-cock. Several other Russians, including a doctor, a captain of engineers, Mr. Titoff's assistant engineer, the trailic manager, and a lady, were of the party. The tiffin was served under an awning in front of Mr. Titoff's house, !ind lasted three hours. We drank the health of tlie Queen with musical honours — a large musical box striking up ' God save the Queen ' at the right moment. Then I proposed the health of the Czar, and afterwards we drank each other's health, vowing eternal friendship. It was indeed a curious position to be in, surrounded liy these most hospitable Russians. Mr. Titoif told Captain ^^IcSwiney that he was aware I was one
MR. TTTOFF 9
of their opponents in the English Parliament, but that political differences ought not to be allowed to prevent private friendships. He spoke in warm terms of Lord Charles Beresford, stating that his eyes were like two lanterns, but he said that ' Charlie' had made Inm angry, and was a naughty boy for having stated at Shanghai, after his visit, that Newchwang and its hinterland were full of Eussian soldiers. lie explained that he had taken immense troul)le to collect 150 men (railway guards) from a wide area in order to receive the English Admiral with lifting honours, and that this number was only made up l)y adding a batch of Cossacks who happened to be passing through on their way to Port Arthur. I merely give the statement as it was made, and express no opinion as to its correctness or otherwise.
After tiilin he took me upstairs to have a wash, and before 1 knew what he was up to had poured a l)ot.lle of scent over my head to refresh me, which, however, running down into my eyes, hardly added to my comfort for the next half-hour. He also added tvvo l;inds of scent to the water in ^^■hich 1 was to wash, and insisted on my accepting another bottle as a present. 1 never met a man in all my life who seemed to be so fond of scent. He had a dozen different sorts in his bedroom, and yet he is a very iMg man, of splendid physique, with certainly nothing etfeun'nate about him.
Mr. Titofl' abused the Chinese in unmeasured terms, and treated all his servants roughly, with the exception of one or two, to whom he was just as
10 CHINA AND THE PEESENT CEISIS
kind as he was rude to the rest ; but if his bearing and conduct towards them is a sample of the way in which the Eussians treat the Chinese, there will certainly be no love lost between them. It is only fair to say, on the other hand, that he is a most generous man. He has 30,000 acres of land in Russia, and an income of 100,000 roubles, which he gives away right and left. He explained to me that he had been here two and a half years, that it was all work, eat, and sleep, a life without repose or society, and that it had taken six years out of his life. There was no necessity for him to be here at all, but he was doing the work for the sake of his country. He made the servant bring to the titlin-table a large portrait of his sister - a lovely girl — who, he said, was all he had in the world to care for.
EXPEDITION UP THE RUSSIAN RAILWAY
We were taken up the railway by an engine with a fiat truck attached, on which chairs were placed. Tea, claret, champagne, aerated waters, also cigars and cigarettes, were taken with us and offered con- stantly.
The gauge of the railway is that of Russia — viz. 5 feet — whilst the Newchwang Extension Line, built by British capital, is 4 ft. 8^ in. The rails are only spiked to the sleepers at present, and the line is not yet ballasted. Deep ditches have been cut on either side of the line right across the flat rich alluvial plain which stretches fifteen miles from the rive r to Ta-shih-chao at the foot of a range
EAILWAY GUARDS 11
of bare green hills running north-west and south- east as far as the eye can reach. The Main Manchurian Line runs at the foot of these hills northwards to Mukden and southwards to Port Aj'thur. It is said to be completed eighty miles both ways, and it certainly was so from my own personal observation for some miles from the junc- tion.
The line over which we travelled was in good condition, considering the nature of the foundation, the heavy rains that had recently fallen, and the rapidity with which the work has been executed. The railway was only begun in April of last year. The huge plain which stretched from the river to the hills was covered with splendid crops of millet and beans. The Chinese villages of mud houses with iiat roofs are much less picturesque than those of Japan and Korea.
TA-SHIH-CHAO
At Ta-shih-chao were several soldiers of remark- ably fine physique, whom the Russians term railway guards. The stalwart station-master was also evidently a soldier. I took snapshots of them with my kodak, also of groups of Chinese and of the surrounding country.
Outside the station the officials were busily en- gaged in sprinkling liquid disinfectants. Bedding was being brought out of three houses close by the railway station, and was burnt within a few yards of us while we were there, people having died of plague
12 CHINA AND THE PRESENT CEISIS
in the houses. We were told that many deaths from plague have recently occurred all round the district. Some of the Kussians were terribly afraid, and eight or ten who could break away from their engagements in connection with the railway crowded round Mr. Titoff, seeking his consent to return instantly to Eussia. He brought them back with him in the train, and discussed matters with each one personally on the way. By the time wc reached Newchwang I think he had overcome the fears of some of them — at any rate for the time being.
At the railway junction tea was again served, and scores of flics hang around one's glass. I shirked drinking the tea, having some doubt as to the purity of the water at that plague-stricken spot.
On our return to ISIr. Titoff' s house we found our Chinese boatmen waiting for us. To get on board wo had to slide down an almost perpendicular slope into the boat, as there was no landing-place whatever in the neighbourhood. This \\'as accom- plished without mishap, except the loss of Captam McSwiney's helmet, which went floating down the river. The tide being in our favour, the boatmen brought us down at a swinging pace.
On my return I met Mr. Sprent, the clergyman here, at dinner. He is a man of splendid physique and active habits, and has travelled all through Manchuria in Chinese dress. He was arrested on the north of tlic Amur liiver by the Russians, and, though he was armed witli everything that was
INTERNATIONAL DISPUTES 13
requisite in the shape of passports, was transported back across the river into Chinese territory.
IXTERXATIOXAL DISPUTES
There are several disputes at Ncwchwang between En^i^lish merchants, the Russians, and the Chinese Government ; one being the question of some land adjoining the railway terminus, which has been occupied by the Kussians without saying ' By your leave,' and on which Messrs. Bush had advanced money on mortgage. There are two other cases in which mining rights have been bought from holders of Dragon papers by British subjects who have been refused the necessary ratification by the Chinese ofticials at Mukden, on the ground that they have not complied with the terms and conditions imposed by the Mining Begulations issued in 1898. Having granted mining concessions to Eussia, France, and (jermany on more favourable conditions than those contained in the Mining Regulations, the Chinese Covernment have denied to British subjects ' all privileges, immunities, and advantages ' whicli have been granted to the subjects or governments of other nations, as provided for in the Treaty of Tientsin. ][.M. Consul at Newchwang did not deny that he had received instructions from the Minister at Pekin not to Lissi^t the merchants of Newchwang' in secur- ing wliat tliey and I regard as their just rights. Yet it IS a fact that it has been over and over again stated in Tarliament by lu-r Majesty's Government that ihev would give all possible assistance in all cases
14 CHINA AND THE PRESENT CRISIS
where British subjects were making a hond-fide application for commercial concessions in China. Another quibble on the part of the Chinese ofticials in regard to these particular matters is that the new Mining Regulations stipulate that no concession shall be granted to a foreigner, but only to Chinese who may introduce foreign capital, or seek the co- operation of foreigners, with official sanction. They do this entirely disregarding the fact that they have given mining concessions direct to Piussians, French, and Germans.
ADDITIONAL BEITISH AND RUSSIAN CONCESSIONS
I also discussed with Mr. Hosie the question of the additional British concession which is being negotiated for on the same side of the river as the Newchwang Extension Line terminus. The tract of land which has been applied for extends from the river bank across a neck to the bank of the river again, as it makes a sweeping curve behind the railway terminus. This negotiation has been dragging on almost interminably, and unless we adopt firmer methods of dealing with the Chinese Government rapid progress will not be made.
The Ivussians are also demanding a further con- cession of land on the bank of the river opposite their present terminus. They contemplate bridging the river to put themselves in a position to link up their Manchurian Railway system with the New- chwang Extension Line, and tlius have continuous railway communication with Pekin. This explains
NEWCHWANG EXTENSION LINE 15
the determination with which they resisted the oh- taining of any control whatever over the Newchwang Extension Line by the British capitaHsts who are finding the money for its construction. It is reported that the Eussians are ah-cady buying up these railway bonds in the London market, and before many years are over it is possible that they will bt^ in possession of the railway right down to Pekin, as the English bondholders can be paid oft' at any time by three months' notice at 20 per cent, premium.
INTERVIEW WITH THE RESIDENT ENGINEER
Mr. Wright, the resident engineer for the section at this end of the Newchwang Extension Line, came to breakfast one morning in order to give me an opportunity for a little conversation. He stated that they expected to get the whole of their rails and other material delivered by the end of September 1899. They hoped to have engines with construction trains running over the railway from Newchwang to Shan-hai-kwan by March 1900. They have ordered Baldwin engines from America, partly because they are cheaper than English engines, but mainly owing to English makers being unable to undertake to execute the orders in less than two years.
A considerable quantity of rails, machinery, and other materials are being supplied from England and Scotland. A ship was expected daily, when I was there, witli 15,000 casks of German cement.
Cliang-yi, the new Chinese official appointed as the head of this railway which, though it is being
16 CHINA AND THE PEESENT CRISIS
built with British money by British engineers, is a Chinese Goverment railway — is still giving the chief engineer, Mr. Kinder, very great trouble. He is anxious that the line should be sold to Russia. The Eussians are causing considerable difficulty by sending men down to try and tempt away foremen and skilled workmen both from Shanghai workshops and dockyards, and from the construction works of the Newchwang Extension Line. They promise an enormous increase in wages,' ,/hich they pay for a few weeks and then discontinue, with the result that the men are very discontented and are coming back to English employment. As in the case of the Russian Manchurian Railway, the carriages and wagons are being built out here, engine repairing and erecting and carriage-building works having been established at Tong-Shan. The wheels and axles and other fittings are got from England, while the woodwork is made on the spot.
NEWCHWANG TRADE
The trade of Newchwang is growing : the total value of imports and exports in 1898 was 4,684,474/., as compared with 3,9-20,344/. in 1897.
The total tonnage of shipping cleared inwards and outwards in 1898 was 827,777 tons, compared with 730,907 tons in 1897.
Enghsh shipping was 309,012 tons, as against the Russian 3,452 tons and the French nil in 1898. The United States of America had only 4,y94 tons.
The most remarkable feature is the enormous
TRADE OF NEWCnWANG 17
siridos made l)y the shipping trade of Japan. In 1897 the total tonnage of their vessels in and out of Newchwang was 80,000, while in 1898 it amounted to iZO-i^OOO.
The main exports from Newchwang are bean- calve, peas, and beans. The bean-cake is used as a manure, and is jn'incipally exported to Swatow and Kwang-tung, and also to Japan.
The duties levied by the Chinese Maritime Cus- toms apply only to foi 'gn shipping, and in addition there is an enormous trade done in native junks between Xewch wang, Korea, and the minor coast ports of China, which are not included in the trade sta- tistics. ]\Ir. T3owra drew my attention to the hindrance to trade which is involved in the Chinese regulation prohibiting the export of foodstuffs. This gives rise to no end of bribing of native ofticials on the part of agriculturists and merchants in order that they may look the other way when a cargo of grain is being loaded for export. No less than 85,000/. worth of millet and other grain was smuggled last year out of the ports of Newchwang and Chefoo for Korea. The free export of grain and other produce all over China \\'ould stimidate trade enormously.
The trade of Newchwang will show a considerable increase this year (1899) over last year, and A^•hen tlie raihvay system c^t' Manchuria and also the New- chwang Extension Lines have been completed, the trade of this port ought to advance fiy leaps and bounds, provided it has lair play. The demand on tlie part of Lcu'd Salisl)tiry for the insertion of a
18 CHINA AND THE PRESENT CRISIS
stipulation which would have secured that the goods of British traders shall be carried over the railways constructed in Manchuria by the Russians on the same terms as the goods of Eussia or of any other nation was not conceded. It remains to be seen, therefore, whether the Russians will, by the imposi- tion of differential rates, strangle the great trade which British merchants are doing with Manchuria through the treaty port of Xe^^"chwang.
Having regard to the fact that British trade here amounts to 3,000,000/. sterling a year, and that it is the last foothold that the Russians have left us in Manchuria, it seems extraordinary that no British p'unVjoat is stationed at Xewchwang. The other day, when word ^vas l^rotight to Mr. Hosie, the Consul, that a serious assault had Ijeen committed in the native town upon a European, he actually asked the Russians to lend him Co'^sacks to go down and resctie the man. This is a practical acquiescence in Russia's policing Xewchwang, and simply stiicidal as far as British interests are concerned.
CHINKSi: IMPEPJAL CUSTOMS KEVEXUE
The revenue for 1808 for the whole of China was '22,o03,.o97 taels, which shows a diminution, ijut thio has ari.-en on two articles only, opium and tea ; there having been a decrease of nearly 4,000,000 taels in ' likin ' on foreign opium and 700,000 taels on tea. The falling-'''ff in revenue on opium i-. not due to the fact that a less quantity is consumed, but is owing to tlu; inrri'asi.d qu;'.j;tity LU'own in MaPiCluu'ia. A high
A CIIIXESE OPINION 19
duty is levied on opium — viz. 110 taels (30 taels duty and 80 taels likin) per pieul containing 133.^ lb., and worth in the market 700 to 800 dollars. The export duly on tea is "2 taels 5 cents a picul ; in addition to this, likin charges are also levied upon tea. The imposition of this is said to liave seriously injured the Cliina trvi trade. However, apart from the opium and tea revenue, there has been a suljstantial increa^,e in the trade done in other dutiable articles. All dutif?- are paid in the Hai-Kwan tael, which was taken at 2.s'. lO-^d. in making up the figures for 1808. This was originally a lump of pure silver weigliin.q' one ounce, but by custom it varies in weight all over Chiiux. lioughly speaking, it is equal to one and a thn-d Mexican dollars.
TIFPIX WITH CHINAMEN
One day Dr. Daly invited Mr. Chen-Yu-Ting, a Clhiicse mcreliiuit ]\rrv, and a 'Sh:. ToJig, the secretary oi' the Xe\vcln\'ang Extension liailway, to tiffin. The former gentleman gave me his views on the present politieiil situati- 'ii in China. He considers that Cliina may bi; at aiu' moment on the eve of a great crisis. He di 'scribed the pr(;-:ent j'hnpress Dowager as havii;g ' tucked the young I'hnporor luider her arm and Won't allow him to inove.' She is jioav sixty- five years of ago ;;nd broken in health thronirh beinrr worried with tlie cares and intri,uues necessary to msintion lier p 'siti'^n. He W" uld not l)e surprised to he;ir of la r death nt any time. A\'hen this takes jihiee there will [I'robably b{} tlu'( l' ['aciion.-; strivinf^f
20 CHINA AND THE PRESENT CEISIS
for mastery in China. One will be under Jimg-Lu, the generalissimo of all the forces in North China and nephew of the Empress Dowager, who is against reform and is anti-foreign. Another faction might be headed by Kang-Yi, a member of the Grand Council ; he and Jung-Lu together broke down the Keform party, but he will play for his own hand if an opportunity arises. The third faction would probably be under the leadership of Pr^' ?ce Ching, now President of the Tsung-li-Yamen ; he is a col- lateral relation of the present Emperor, and is to a certain extent patriotic and in favour of reform. These are all Manchus, and there would still have to be taken into consideration the Cantonese, amongst whom are to be found the majority of the reformers of China, and who might obtain the support of the Chinese generally in a united effort to deprive the Manchus of the governing power in China.
The difficulties in the way of a union of forces are the distinctive local characteristics and prejtt- dices in each province. Each province pays and controls its own army, and the weakness of China in the war with Japan was to a considerable extent due to the fact that the different armies and the different sections of the navy did not work together. I askL-d the question as to whether there. ^\as ciny improvement in the organisation and cqtiipment of any provincial armies since the war of 1894-5, nnd was told that thou.fj'h the antiquated gun known as a ' jingall ' is in use in some parts, yet
A POLITICAL FORECAST 21
armies like those of Chang-Cliih-Tung and of Liu- Kun-Yi (Viceroy of Nankinf() have modern rifles.
Chcn-Yu-Ting thinks that when the inevitable struggle takes place among the different sections of the Chinese, Russia will take advantage of the crisis, and, advancing south of the Great AYall, will seize as much of China as possible. She would first occupy Chihli, Shensi, Kansuh, and then Shansi and Honan. At the same time he believes that the French would advance from the south and en- deavour to occupy a large portion of Southern China, and, if possible, penetrate far enough north- wards to enable them to join hands with Eussia.
He said that Y^oung China contains many men whu are true patriots, holding enlightened views, l)ut states that in view of the fact that for 2,000 years all Emperors have repressed the people, it is no wonder that they lack those qualities of self-reliance, courage, and patriotism, the want of whicli leaves them so absolutely at the mercy of any strong Power to-day. Pie considers that the only hope for China is to have its army re- organised under British officers, and he does not bi'lieve that the Lnlucated Chinese on the coast of Cliina would object to have the assistance of Japanese olliccrs als(). He reminded me of the reci-'ut notice given by ]\P de Giers to the Tsung- li-Y^amen, warning them that any alliance between China and Japan would be an unfriendly act, and would be followed by serious consequences. He said tliat the present officials at P(>kin are for the most
22 CHINA AND THE PEESENT CRISIS
part in Russian pay, having, it is generall}' })elievecl, been bought l)y Russian gold. He added that Russia knows that ])oth in chmate and agi'icuUurally China is much superior to Siberia, and that it is not surprising that she should endeavour to gain possession of as much of it as possible. He urged that the English ought to give greater facihties for the naturalisation of Chinese at Singapore and Hong-Kong, and that they ought also to folloAV the example of the French Consuls at Bankok and Saigon, and instruct British Consuls to naturalise all Chinese or other applicants at every treaty port throughout China. He said that if any inhabitant of India comes to Cliina lie enjoys Briiisli jjrutection as a Britisli sub]"<'ct, but if a Hong-Kong or Singa- pore Chinese resident comes to China he does not have this j)rotection unless he has fulfilled the con- ditions at present so dillicult to comply ^^■it]l, and become a naturalised British subject. He drew attention to a condition imposed before naturalisation can take place— viz. the cutting off of the pigtail and the adoption of European dress — and contended tliat this ought not to be insisted upon.
He stated that the Fi'ench in Amiam extend the privileges of naturalisation to all applicants. His opim'on is that Russia has placed herself so rapidly in military occupation of North China that Eiigland would in all probnljility not have time to finisli the construction of a railway from Britisli Burmah to the upper Yang-tsze b(-fore the crisis, and that, there- fore, licr true policy, if slie is not to b'_' squef.'zed out
MISSIONS IN ^lANCIIURIA 23
of China altogether, lies in giving every assistance to the creation and reorganisation of a powerful Chinese army — thus helping the Chinese to help themselves. I give the views thus expressed by an intelligent Chinese merchant as nearly as possible as he stated them to nie, and I think they show how comprehen- sive a grasp of the situation some, at any rate, of the Chinese are able to take.
MISSIONS IX MAXCHUEIA
The Irish Presbyterians and the Presbyterian Church of Scotland have together ten centres where European missionaries worlv, and the Danish European Lutheran Church has four centres. They have altogether about 10,000 converts.
There are thirty European Protestant mission- aries on the ground, and of these ten are medical. There are also ten lady missionaries and 140 nativf^ preachers. They have day schools, with 1,000 scholars, and between twent_y and thirty Sunday scliools.
TIk'V (Avii very valuable property in the shape of hospitals, chapels, schools, and residences, and their work is carried on at a cost of 15,000/. a 3'ear.
Tlie Erench Poman Catliolic missions are still more extensive. They liave iiiany churches through- ottt ]\ranchuria, also schools, orphanages, and landed property, with two bishops and quite a number of priests. They claim about 50,000 converts.
If Pussia annexes iNIanchuria, and adopts the same poliry there that prevails in Pu^^sia, mi-^sionary
24 CHINA AND THE PEESENT CRISIS
enterprises, which have been built np at so great a cost, and with such beneficial results, will in all pro- bability be extinguished.
Dr. Daly, my host, is a Chinese mandarin, having received the Double Dragon Decoration from the Emperor for Eed Cross services at Newchwang during the Chino-Japanese war.
ADVANTAGES OF MAXCHrRiA
Manchuria is emphatically the white man's climate in China, the thermometer in summer rarely rising above 87° in the shade, while in the winter it sometimes goes down to IT below zero, but as it is a dry cold it is not severely felt. There are resi- dents here who have been out twenty-five years continuously, and who are perfect examples of health and strength. The physique of the Chii;ese inhabi- tants is simply splendid. These facts show the folly of the British Government in having failed to main- tain British treaty rights in Manchuria.
I was sorry to hear before I left that the bubonic plague was spreading rapidly, and that many deaths were taking place daily. The plague was of a very virulent type, and almost invariably fatal, death occurring in froin forty-eight to ninety-six hours.
The gravity of the situation was so far re- cognised that the owners refused to take any Chinese passengers for Chefoo on board the boat, with the exception of my Chinese boy. Therefore we had the whole ship to ourselves, apart from the ofticors and crew.
A RUSSO-CIITNESE FLAG 25
A'^ a parting gift and souvenir of Newchwang, Dr. Daly ])roiiglit nic a flag which is being adopted ])}' the Russians in connection with their Manchurian railway system. It has the Chinese dragon in one corner, and the Eussian colours in the other, and is very significant of the way in which the wind is 1)1 owing.
^Nlr. Chen-Yu-Ting, one of the Chinese gentle- men who had tiffin with me yesterday, also sent me his photograph and a second photograph of the Emperor and four of the most enlightened Reformers.
The s.s. ' Higo-Maru ' was also leaving New- chwang for Chefoo that afternoon, but though she is a fast boat, I preferred the cleanliness and wholesome food on the ' Tamsui ' to a repetition of my experi- ences hereafter described on board the Japanese ship.
In coming do^\•n the river we had a strong summer gale l)lowing, and I was much impressed with the steadiness and seaworthy qualities of the huge Chinese junks which were also on their way to sea. The design for the English turret ships was suggested by the Chinese junk, which is constructed on the same model to-day as has been in vogue for the last two thousand years. The upper part is perpendicular and narrow, a short distance above the water-line it l)ulg<js right out on both sides, which makes it not only a good sea-boat, but also gives below water a large carrying capacity. The way the Chinese sailors handle their junks shows them to be very skilful seamen.
26 CHINA AND THE PRESENT CRISIS
I said ' Good-bye ' to Captain McSwine}' at Dr. Daly's. Pie starts to-morrow for England. He pur- poses going up through IManchuria and right across Siberia and Russia, in order to gain as much knowledge as possible of what is being done. He is doing this entirely on his own initiative, and at his own expense. His regiment, the 7th Dragoon Guards, is at present stationed at Aldershot, and I expect to meet him on niy return home to compare notes.
newchwaxct to chefoo
The sea was rough outside, but the ' Tamsui ' being pretty well laden was remarkably steady, and we had on the whole a comfortable passage. We reached Chefoo in heavy rain next day. The port doctor, jMr. Molyneux, took me ashore in the Customs House boat between showers, but we were obliged to take shelter at Cornabe & Eckford's office, where we remained prisoners during the next two hours, the rain coming down in torrents. Mr. Anderson, of Cornabe & Eckford, who is also a member of the Reform Club, gave mc his views of the situation in China. He showed mc a petition to her Majesty's Government, which is to be signed at every port in China, urging that British rights and interests should be upheld in a more vigorous fashion. The document, however, was far too vague ; it con- tained no clear and definite statement of what the merchants out here really want, and therefore it is not likely to count for anything with Lord Salisbury.
27
CHAPTER II
CHEFOO TO TIENTSIN
I WENT Oil board Messrs. Butterfield & Swire's boat, the 'Wuchang,' at twelve o'clock (noon), expecting that she would sail immediately, but found that the rain which was falling had compelled them to stop discharging her cargo, and it was five o'clock before she actually sailed.
Among the goods which were being unloaded at Chefoo were cotton piece-goods from England and America, also rice, sugar, paper, and dried seaweed. The sea was pretty rough, even in the harbour, and we expected to be pitched about when we got out- side. The wind, however, dropped, and we had a fairly smooth passage to Taku Bar, the entrance to the Pei-ho, which leads up to Tientsin. We arrived at the Bar at eleven o'clock, only to find that it was low Avater and that the detention of several hours before the steamer could enter the river would cause us to miss the last train to Tientsin. We, however, succeeded in getting a tug-boat to take us up after waiting aljout three hottrs. Though this boat onlv drew about live feet of water, she stuck on
28 CHINA AND THE PEESENT CEISIS
the bar for a quarter of an hour, until the water rose a little further.
Close by us, at anchor, were five new cruisers which had just been purchased by the Chinese Government. Two of them were built by Armstrong, Mitchell, & Co., of Newcastle-on-Tyne, and the other three by the Germans. They are said to be the fastest cruisers afloat, going twenty-four knots an hour, and are fitted with everj^ modern appliance ; but they just lie there — the Chinese practically do not cruise in them at all. It seems probable they will be of little value to the Chinese as a fighting power. One Italian and one Austrian cruiser were anchored alongside the Chinese ships.
Orit of jNIessrs. Holt Brothers' steamers from Liverpool, about 9,000 tons burden, was discharging cargo into huge lighters. She could not cross the bar even at high water, and, indeed, much smaller steamers have to discharge a considerable portion of their cargo outside before they are able to enter. The river up to Tientsin has been allowed to silt up to such an extent that no steamers are able at present to reach it. From our steamer they began to discharge China tea, which was on its way from Hankow to Eussia. The Russians are by far the largest consumers of China tea, which they prefer to our Indian and Ceylon tea. Large quantities of arsenic powder were also being put on board a lighter — this is used for preserving skins. Tientsin is a great centre for trade in all kinds of furs and skms, including sables.
THE PEI-IIO 29
THE PEI-HO AND TAKU FORTS
After crossing the bar \vc approached the entrance to the Pei-ho — the word ' ho ' in China means river, so it is really the Pei Kiver. On both sides are the huge mud forts of Taku, which have more than once offered a stout resistance to the English and French in their wars with China. These are very extensive, and have many guns mounted. On the way up the river were more mud forts.
"We passed the Imperial Naval Yard, which looked in a somewhat dilapidated condition. There were also in tht; river several new torpedo destroyers, which have been Ijitilt in England for the Chinese government.
On both sides of the river, flat marshy land stretched away as far as the eye could reach. A number of curious horizontal windmills were revolv- ing and pumping up sea water into large reservoirs, where it is allowed to evaporate, and then the salt which remains is collected.
Toxc;-KU
On landing at Tong-Iut, where \\'e took the train, wc werr surrotmded by a largo crowd of coolies cl,imouring to carry the baggjge. When given the job th.ey bcgai^ to deniRM'l extortionate terms. As there v;i- }io tixed tariif, ond no other mnans of getting our baj:;!::anc to the railway station, we had to submit — tlu^ amount paid for a ijuarter of an hoitr's work being eipiivalent to a diiy's wage. They reminded
30 CHINA AND THE PEESENT CEISIS
me somewhat of the crowd that used to lay hold of one's baggage by mam force on landing at Tmiis.
EVIDENCE OF BETTISH TEADE
When I got on the landing-stage I was much gratified to see a huge pile of new steel rails bearing the stamp of the Barrow Hematite Steel Company, Limited. It gave me great encouragement in the efforts I am making to promote British trade with China to have this practical proof that the miners of the Barnsley Division have a direct personal interest in the railway extensions which are being made in China, for no doubt both coal and coke from the Barrow Collieries were used in the production of these rails at the Barrow Works.
TIENTSIN
We had a pleasant journey of an hour and a half by rail up to Tientsin (twenty-seven miles). On the way from the railway station my jinricksha passed through the French settlement of Tientsin, where the whole of the streets are named in French. On entering the Fi-giish settlement I found myself dashing along Victoria Eoad. The buildings in this settlement are cwcellent structures of stone aud bricJv, and while in the European quarter it is difficult to imagine that you are in China. T called on Mr. Cousins, of Messrs. Jardine, Matheson, & Co., and went with him to hear a rather good Inind which Wiis playing in the public gardens.
PEKIN TERMINUS 31
FEOM TIENTSIN TO PEKIN
I left Tientsin on August 27, in compan}' with Mr. Hillier, the manager of the Hong-Kong and Shanghai Bank at Pekin. We travelled in what is known as the postal car, which was really comfortable. The cmmtry from Tientsin to Pekin — a distance of about eighty miles, which we did in three hours — is absolutely flat. As you approach Pekin there is a fine range of hills which runs from east to ^vest, broken in outline, and forming a beautiful background across the plain.
There are very few trees until nearing Pekin, when the country is fairly well wooded. The ex- tensive plain was covered with splendid crops of nnllet and other cereals. At one railway station I was glad to have a further practical proof of how the working men at home are interested in the development and opening up of China in the shape of a trainload of bridge girders made in Glasgow.
TEKIN
The Pekin terminus is about live miles from tlio city. There are l)eautifully fitted tramcars (h'ivcn Ity electricity for a portion of the way, but these are of little use to passengers with baggage. There are three modes of getting from the railway station into the Tartar city of Pekin. First by one of the numerous covered -in carts, vhich are drawn by mule:, and trundle along in a perfect cloud of tlust, which is literally inches thick along the
32 CHINA AND THE TEESENT CRISIS
roadway ; second, to ride into the city on a donkey ; third, to be carried in a sedan chair by four stalwart Chinamen. I adopted the last-named. The men went along at a swinging pace, and gave a sort of jerky motion to the chair which was not altogether agreeable. They landed me safely at the Hong- Kong and Shanghai Bank — where I was put up by Mr. Hillier — in an liour and a quarter, a distance of over five miles. At the end of the first two miles we came to the outer city wall and entered by a gate- way into the Chinese city. After passing through a portion of the city we traversed a broad road with waste ground on each side of it, and beyond it on the right hand was the ' Temple of Heaven ' and on the left the ' Temple of Agriculture,' both in huge walled enclosures. As we passed along the streets the people gazed with considerable curiosity on the 'foreign devil.' Man}^ of the shops have fronts of beautifully carved woodwork. They open on to the street, and large quantities of clothes and other articles which are offered for sale are spread out on the roadway, where they arc soon covered with dust.
We shortly came to the massive wall surround- ing the Tartar city, \\-hich we entered by a Imge gateway, and soon afterwards arrived at Legation Street, in which moot of the Foreign Legations are situated, and also the Hong-Kong and Shanghai Bank.
The population (jf Pekin is estimai;e(l at about 700,000. There is no other city like it in the
CLUB AT PEKIN 33
universe, and, though terribly dirty, it is most interesting.
On arrival, I found an invitation to dine with Mr. Bax Ironside, H.B.M. Charge d'Affaires, the same evening. Mr. Hillier took me round to the very cosmopolitan club, where we found lawn tennis in full swing. Some sets were being played by men of four distinct nationalities, who, though they may be fighting each other strenuously in regard to political affairs, still meet in a perfectly friendly way on this neutral ground. The club is situated just within the great wall surrounding the Tartar city.
Mr. Bredon, Sir Kobert Hart's Assistant Comp- troller of Customs, dined with me at Mr. Bax Iron- side's, and we had a long and animated talk on all the important events that have happened in China during the last two years.
Before leaving Mr. Hillier's I went into the dining-room, where he was entertaining five Chinese gentlemen at dinner. I was introduced to Hu-Yuen- Meh, the president of the Chinese railways, who was ousted from that position by intrigue largely on account of his friendliness to the English, and re- placed by Chang- Yi, the president now in power.
VISIT TO MISSION STATION
The weather was perfect, and, contrary to txpeciation, not at all unbearably liot. My first expedition was in search of the liev. Mr. Stonehouse at the London Mission, to whom I had a letter of
D
34 CHINA AND THE PEESENT CRISIS
introduction from my friend Mr. Albert Spicer, M.P. I was conveyed in one of the ordinary Chinese carts without springs and drawn by a mule. The roads in Pekin, with the exception of Legation Street, are simply in the condition that they have been in for centuries — ankle-deep in dust or mud, accord- ing to the weather, and with deep ruts every- where. It was a case not exactly of 'rattle his bones over the stones,' but of ' rattle his bones over the ruts.' I reached my destination in a very sore and battered condition, only to find that I had been brought to the wrong mission btation. Two lady missionaries, however, very kindly undertook to send my letter across the city to Mr. Stonehouse, and to ask him to come and see me at the Hong Kong and Shanghai Bank. They also suggested that if I sat outside the cart on the shaft I should feel the jolt- ing much less, and it was in this fashion that I made the return journey — having to hold on pretty tight to avoid being thrown off.
I left cards on M. de Giers and M. Kroupen- sky at the Eussian Legation, and then called on Mr. Bax Ironside, with whom I s|ent two hours in the discussion of the political situation. I came away convinced that our representatives out here do all in their power, and that their failure to maintain British rights and interests has been and is largely due to the want of proper support and backing on th' part of Lor'l Salisbury, by whose direction every surrender has been made.
DIPLOMATISTS AT PEKIN 35
INTERVIEW WITH M. KllOUPENSKY
In the afternoon, M. Kroupcnsky, from the Ixussian Legation, returned my call, and we had a most lively discussion, lasting two hours and a half, on all the difliculties which have arisen between England and Russia in China. From a Russian standpoint he made an able defence of the action that they have taken in regard to various matters. He spoke English perfectly, and displayed a com- plete knowledge and grasp of every question. He promised me a letter of introduction to the Governor of Port Arthur.
CALL ox JAPANESE MIXISTEK
I next called upon the Japanese Minister, to whom I had a letter of introduction from Viscount Aoki, the Minister of Foreign Affairs in Japan. The Minister was out of Pekin, but I saw his First Secretary, with whom I had a long conversation on my experiences in Japan and on tlie political situation generally, both past and present. In common with every other Japanese politician or diplomatist whom I have met, he was full of friendly expressions towards England, and, above evtaything else, desirous that there should be complete co- operation in the furtherance of our mutual interests in the Far East.
THE TAKTAE CITY WALL
My lubt expedition for the day was to ascend the great Wall stirrounding the Tartar City, and to pass
D 2
36 CHINA AND THE PRESENT CRISIS
along the top for a mile or so to the Great Central Pagoda over the main entrance. The view it com- mands is extensive, as Pekin is situated on a perfectly flat plain. The city contains everywhere an abundance of fine timber, and behind this, as a background, runs the range of Western Hills, making Pekin attractive from a scenic point of view. There is, however, practically no drainage whatever, and naturally the smells encountered everywhere, coupled with the filth and dirt, somewhat lessen one's pleasure. I would not, however, on any account, have missed seeing Pekin. The narrow streets, through which one had to pick one's way, were crowded with people pursuing their various avocations and journe3'ing to and fro without a thought, for the most part, of the great world outside their city, and, if I am correctly informed, with few exceptions, in complete ignorance of the political events so vitally affecting their great Empire, which have been occurring in such rapid succession for the last two years. I had heard much of anti-foreign feeling, but thotigh I passed freely along the streets, beyond a certain exhibition of curiosity, I did not see the slightest display of incivility.
There were numerous donkeys, with jingling bells, astride of which Chinamen, clad in gorgeous raiment and fine linen, sat unconcernedly amidst the jostling crowds in these Chinese thoroughfares. The musical cries of itinerant vendors of various trades, of donkey boys and chair-bearers, fell upon the ear ; and in the night there was the barking of innumerable dogs.
PEKIN WALLS 37
In winter clouds of dust sweep over Pekin from the Gobi Desert in Mongolia — denser, even, and more penetrating than a London fog.
CITY WALLS, PEKIN
The Tartar or Inner City, and the Chinese or Outer City, are both surrounded by walls which consist of a stone foundation and two brick walls filled in between with mud. Those of the northern or Tartar city are about 40 feet high ; at the base about 50 feet thick, narrowing to 30 feet at the top and defended by massive buttresses at intervals of 300 yards. There are nine gates leading into it, above each of which a pagoda of striking appearance, about 100 feet high, is raised; besides these, each gate has on the outside a semi-circular — on some gates a square — enceinte in which a somewhat smaller pagoda stands opposite to the gate pagoda. The middle gate of the southern side, the Ch'ien-men, or Front Gate, whose enceinte is pierced by three entrances, is much the largest.
FORBIDDEN CITY, PEKIN
Inside the Tartar City is the 'Forbidden City,' where the Imperial Palaces are situated. This is also surrounded by a wall, and no foreigner or Cliinaman not occupying a certain official position has been admitted beyond the first building inside the main entrance. There is a mountain of coal just inside the wall, which can be seen from the outside. It has been there 300 years, and is supposed to
38 CHINA AND THE PEESENT CEISIS
be a reserve stock for use in the Imperial Palaces in any time of siege. The Celestials apparently do not know that after being exposed to the atmo- sphere for 300 years the burning qualities of the material would be gone.
THE GOVERNMENT OF CHINA
Next day my first call was upon INIr. Pethick, an American, who is one of the private secretaries of Li-Hung-Chang. He informed me that the Board of Foreign Affairs, known as the Tsung-li-Yamen, has really no executive power. They hear statements of cases, and then report through their president to the Grand Council of State, which consists of al)Out ten members. This council considers various ques- tions, and attaches to the documents relating to each case a piece of red paper, on which their decision is written. If they do not arrive at a unanimous con- clusion, then the opinions of those dissenting are also stated. The members of the Grand Council go to the Imperial Palace every morning at daybreak, and are received in audience by the Empress Dowager. All the documents relating to the affairs of State are then submitted, one l)y one, for the approval, or otherwise, of the Empress Dowager. She signifies her approval by making a small spot on the margin of the red paper witli one of the brushes with which the Chinese write. In the absence of this indica- tion of sanction on her part the matter falls to the ground, and her power is absolute and final.
Members of the Grand Coitncil, and also of
A BEITTSH BLUNDER 39
the Tsiing-li-Yamen, are appointed solely by the Empress, and one and all are liable to instant dis- missal by her. The Grand Council is really the Government or Cabinet of the country, and is, as a rule, mainly composed of those who preside over the Boards controlling the various departments of State. The deposed young Emperor occasionally sits be- side the Empress Dowager when she receives her iMinisters.
DEPOSITION OF THE EMPEEOR
A most serious blunder, far-reaching in its con- sequences, was made by the British Government when they tamely allowed the deposition of the Emperor in 1898 and the usurpation of the throne by the Empress Dowager. The young Emperor was undoubtedly in favour of reform and the opening of China to trade, whilst the Empress Dowager is reactionary and anti-foreign. Under her rule the most unenlightened, corrupt, and anti-foreign place- hunters are in office.
The way in which the British Minister not only acquiesced in the coup d'etat, but actually arranged with the Empress Dowager to give a reception to ladies of the British and other Legations, was a scandal.
This proceeding gave an emphatic official sanc- tion to the removal of the Emperor and the assump- tion of his position by the Empress Dowager. It encouraged anti-foreign feeling and discouraged the party of reform.
40 CHINA AND THE PEESENT CEISIS
The policy pursued is responsible for the lives of scores of the most patriotic Chinese reformers which were sacrificed ; it enabled the reactionary elements in the country to triumph, and dealt a heavy blow at the reform movement.
A substantial majority of the inhabitants of China are opposed to the Manchu Dynasty now ruling the Empire. The 2\Ianchus, however, being a more warlike race, dominate the Chinese by Manchu garrisons stationed at various centres throughout the Empire.
Kow that the trend of events is in the direction of the absorption by Russia of Manchu populations in Manchuria and the North of China, it is not im- probable that the Chinese may ultimately succeed in throwing off the yoke of the Manchus and setting up a purely Chinese Government.
Meantime it is certain that the Chinese reformers of the South would favour the restoration of the rightful Emperor rather than the continuance in power of the Empress Dowager.
PEKIN EUNUCHS
I am told that the eunuchs at the Palace, of w4iom there are about 200, practically rule China. They have acquired great influence over the Empress Dowager. It is said that official appointments and concessions can only be got by bribing the Eunuchs. The Eunuchs and those in command of the military forces are said to share the ' squeezes,' which they would lose were administrative reforms introduced.
PRINCE CHING 41
INTERVIEW WITH PEINCE CHING
I paid another visit to the British Legation, and had a further conversation with the Charge d'Affaires in the absence of Sir Claude Macdonald. Mr. Bax Ironside had forwarded on the previous day a letter of introduction from Lord Charles Beresford to Prince Ching, a Prince of the Imperial family of China and President of the Tsung-li-Yamen, and the reply came that His Highness would be pleased to give me an audience at the Yamen at three o'clock in the afternoon. At that hour I was at the entrance of the Yamen, and was ceremoniously conducted into an audience hall, where I found a round table covered with fruit, biscuits, and sweets. Prince Ching's interpreter, who spoke fairly good English, came and chatted to me along with three members of the Tsung-li-Yamen. He explained that His Highness was being interviewed by the Italian ^rinistcr, but that he would not be detained long. In a very few minutes Prince Ching came into the audience hall, and I was presented to him.
We at once took seats round the table, and tea and Chinese wines were served. Our conversation was of the most interesting and pleasant character. The Prince appeared to be an honest and straightforward man, and put some very pertinent questions. The hall in which the audience took place was a large square room with an overhanging roof, and had a verandah all round it ; tl^e windows were tilled with leaded panes, reminding me of church casements. The roof was of carved and brightly painted wood-
42 CHINA AND THE PRESENT CEISIS
work. Three other members of the Tsmig-li-Yamen sat at the same table with Prince Ching and myself ; their secretaries occupied seats on a sort of couch, which ran all round the room, fixed to the wall ; whilst other attendants stood and listened to what was said. This is usual at such audiences, and the fact that so many individuals hear everything, even at the most important interviews, accounts for the impossibility of keeping anything secret that transpires at the Tsung-li-Yamen in regard to political or other afiairs.
I urged upon His Highness that the only hope of averting the partition of China lay in : —
First. — The prompt settlement of all outstanding differences vrith England and other powers.
Second. — A resolute refusal of concessions violat- ing the Treaty rights of other nations.
Third. — The seeking the assistance of English, Japanese, and American officers in the immediate re-organisation of her military and naval forces.
His Highness expressed his hearty approval of the line of policy which I advocated, and stated that it would receive his serious consideration.
Prince Ching made most friendly references to England. He said he had always regarded her as the friend of China, but had been greatly disappointed at the refusal of the necessary support to the Chinese Government to enable them to resist the demands of other Powers which involved violations of the Treaty of Tientsin.
Tlie audience lasted nearly an hour.
LI-HUNG-CIIANG 43
INTERVIEW WITH LI-IIUNG-CIIANG
I next proceeded to Li-Hnnf,^-Chang's private residence, where I found Mr. Pethick, who had arranged the interview, awaiting me. I was soon face to face with the great Chinaman who has played so important a part in the afYairs of China during the last half-century. He was associated closely with Gordon in overcoming the Taiping Eebellion, and has from time to time held some of the highest official positions in China. He represented his country on a most important mission to Europe, visiting in the course of it practically all the European Courts, where he was received with every mark of distinction. It was he who settled the terms of peace with the ^larquis Ito at Shimonoseki. Many people openly accuse him of having sold his country into the hands of Eussia. As to the truth of this I know nothing, but I found it extremely interesting to meet so notable a man, whose ability and shrewd- ness are undoubted. His Excellency asked me a great many questions, some of them of an almost impertinently inquisitive character ; but, on the other hand, he made many inquiries about political and commercial atTairs which revealed how complete a grasp he had of the present situation.
I urged upon him the necessity for adopting, as tlie one means of preventing the partition of China, the policy which I had submitted for the con- sideration of His Highness Prince Ching, and Li- Hung-Chang expressed his strong approval of my
44 CHINA AND THE PEESENT CEISIS
suggestions. He stated that if they could be carried out he was prepared to devote the remainder of his Hfo to the service of his country. Faihng this, he considered the situation hopeless, and would remain in retirement. Mr. Pethick proved a most excellent interpreter, and my conversation was carried on with wonderful ease, though neither of us could speak a word of each other's language.
It is usual for Chinamen to be polite enough to profess to agree with whatever those who interview them say. It was, therefore, impossible to know whether these distinguished men really agreed with what I urged upon them or not.
The reason why I pressed the importance of endeavouring to secure the assistance of English, Japanese, and American military officers in the reorganisation of their military force, is that I do not approve of depriving the Chinese of their countr}^, as some of the European Powers have done, but, if possible, wish to give them such help as will make them a strong and self-governing nation.
On my return to the Hong-Kong and Shanghai Bank from my audience with Li-Hung-Chang, I found two missionaries, Mr. Stonehousc and Mr. Piees, waiting to see me. The following is a sum- mary of the information given me by ]Mr. Pees in regard to missions in a district within two hundred miles of Pekin.
EELIGIOUS BELIEFS 45
EELIGION
As a rule, the Chinese care very little for their gods, and seldom pray to them except in time of trouble. Mr. Eees on one occasion happened to meet in the temple a man whose mother was seriously ill. He vowed to the god that if his mother was cured he would pay so much money to the temple. This man was fifty years of age, had a large family, and had not worshipped before this occasion for eighteen years. Mr. Eees gave another instance of Chinese seeking the assistance of their gods in the following anecdote of a man he met sixteen years ago. This man had propelled himself on all fours from Pekin to Tsi-nan, in the Province of Shantung, and back again, a distance of about 1,060 miles, to make a vow to a god that he would pay all he possessed if his father was cured of a certain disease called Tanza (paralysis). The Chinese spend enormous sums of money in superstitious obser- vances, and in Mr. Eces's district (Chi-Chou) the usual subscription for each family to the local bonzes is about 10 tiao (105.) per year.
At Chi-Chou there were 1,500 converts, the result of twelve years' work. Last year the number of Christian churches built by the natives was 41. The majority of the people are small farmers own- ing from 2 10 8 mow of land per family (15 mow equals 1 acre).
Last year Mr. Eees baptised about 800 in his church, who contributed 2s. 2d. a head, in addition
46 CHINA AND THE PEESENT CEISIS
to which they supported schools. One man about 55 years of age, with neither wife, family, nor relatives, employed as a scavenger, who had saved in five or six years the sum of 325., gave the whole amount to the new church.
The Chinese women are more devotional than the men. It is with the former that the hope of the Church lies. Mrs. Rees has about 250 Chinese M'omen under her charge. The Chinese men osten- sibly look down upon the women, but, after all, the latter control the families.
Mr. Eees mentioned an interesting story told by one of his deacons about the penance done by a Chinese member of a secret society. This society is known as the ' One Piece Incense.' The un- fortunate member had knelt on chains for two hours a day for eighteen years, and, of cotu'se, was crippled for life.
On one occasion an official invited himself to stay with Mr. Eees for three days to discuss Christianity. His chief topic was the immortality of the soul, and he was also convinced that one wife was the correct thing. As a result of the discussion he resigned office and retired to his ancestral home, saying he could not be an official and a Christian at the same time.
Ancestral worship is general all over the country. During tlie first moon and a certain day in the second moon every family worships at the family altar and the family grave, and this practice may be said to be almost universal.
THE BOXERS 47
SECRET SOCIETIES
The inembers of a Secret Society called the ' United Boxers,' in a fi<:^ht with Catholics, killed seven. They also attacked the London Mission, which was surrounded by about 300 of them. \\'hen the converts heard of it, over 100 of them collected all the arms they could find to defend the mission. They put all the ladies and children in one house, where they were kept for three days and nights. The mission claimed the protection of the local official, but this was refused. An appeal was then made to the Consul in Tientsin, and the Vice- roy sent a special commissioner. It appeared that the leader of the gang was a cousin of the local official. And this explained why the latter was unwilling to act.
The officials are almost bound to retain for their own use some portion of the revenue passing through their hands. Mr. Eees said the Governor of his county receives a salary of only 180/. per annum, but liis establishment costs at least 5,000/. per annum, and the difference is raised by extortion.
Officials are paid in taels. Thetael in this district is equivalent to 2,000 copper cash, but the oi'iicial charges 5,100 copper casli per tael. The people have to pay in copper cash, th(3 difference going into the official's pocket. The Governor gave 20,000 taels in order to get the nppointment. It is difficult to learn much about the Chinese in cities. Mr. Eees said he li a.rnt more in six months in the cotintry than he did in six vcars in Pekin.
48 CHINA AND THE PRESENT CRISIS
MR. HILLIER
Mr. Hillier, the manager of the Hong-Kong and Shanghai Bank inPekin, who has been in China for many years, is said to speak the language like a native. He enjoys the confidence of many of the most enlightened and able Chinamen to an unusual extent, and has channels of information which make him one of the best-informed men as to what is actually transpiring from day to day in Pekin. He informed me that it is undoubted that a defensive alliance between Japan and China was almost brought about. The Empress Dowager, who was at one time favourable to Eussia, became alarmed by their excessive demands. She and Prince Ching were in favour of seeking the co-operation of Japan in the maintenance of their mutual interests as against Pussia. The eunuchs and certain Manchus who share the ' squeezes ' which are obtainable as things now stand, strongly opposed. This opposi- tion, and the distinct intimation to the Chinese Government by Eussia that they would regard such an alliance as an unfriendly act, which would surely be followed with serious consequences to China, caused the negotiations to fall through.
Mr. Hillier held very strong views as to the disastrous effect upon British interests in China which had followed the want of a firm and definite policy unswervingly pursued on the part of the British Government. He regarded the loss of prestige and influence with the Chinese Government
A FIRM POLICY 49
as the result of a succession of humiliating surrenders. He was of opinion that the adoption of a firm and vigorous policy, in concert if possible with those powers who do not desire the partition of China, is imperatively necessary if the position is to be retrieved.
50 CHINA AND THE PEESENT CRISIS
CHAPTER III
BRITISH TEADE AND BRITISH NEGLECT IN CHINA
On August 31 I left Pekin for Tientsin.
ENGLISH SETTLEMENT, TIENTSIN
The English settlement of Tientsin has a muni- cipal council which looks after sanitary affairs, light- ing, etc., exactly as at home. The freehold of the settlement is the property of the British Crown, which has merely granted leases to the present occu- piers. In sixty years' time, unless the leases are renewed, the whole of the palatial property within the settlement will belong to the British Govern- ment without any payment on its part. The Britishers have, therefore, come out to this far- away part of the earth and settled upon land actually belonging to the British Government. The residents are very enterprising. They have taxed themselves not only with the cost of providing a public garden and the erection of a commodious town hall, but they are also subscribing a large sum of money for the pm'pose of deepening the Pei River by closing
TEADE OF TIENTSIN 51
up numerous Ccanals. One great hindrance to trade at Tientsin is the bar at the mouth of the river. This could easily be removed, but the Chinese Government object on the ground that it is a protection against the entrance of foreign ships of war.
TRADE OF TIENTSIN
The total value of the trade of Tientsin in 1898 was 10,945,008Z. I85.
The net total of the foreign imports, which in- clude very large quantities of British goods — the products of British labour — in 1898 amounted to 4,886,927/. 25.
The tonnage of vessels entered and cleared in 1896 was 1,377,116 tons. Out of this, British shipping amounted to no less than 571,486 tons. Yet I was assured by every man I met in Tientsin, regardless of political parties -and the principal merchants there all met me at dinner on my arrival — that the British Government are not supporting and maintaining British rights and interests in North China. They stated that our prestige and influence with the Chinese Government — which was all-powerful only five years ago — has vanished. To-day the only chance of a British subject securing the redress of a grievance or the settlement of a dis- pute is to pay some foreigner to take over the trans- action and deal with the Chinese Government through the representative here of their own nation.
The merchants of Tientsin are perfectly prepared
E 2
52 CHINA AND THE PRESENT CRISIS
to construct a railway from Pekin to Kalgan, through the Nan-Kou PasS; which is the principal outlet through a range of mountains from Mongolia and Kan Suh, by which the wool, skins, and general produce can be brought to Tientsin. In return Manchester piece goods and other British manu- factures would be taken. Our merchants informed the British authorities of their desire to under- take this work, only to be told that Russia objected, as Kalgan was on the Great Wall. The Anglo-Eussian Agreement proposed to deal with Manchuria only, but I find that in reality it ex- cludes the British, and hands over to the Russians not only Manchuria but Mongolia, a huge tract in the Province of Chihli and the Province of Sin Kiang or Eastern Turkestan. This enormous surrender of British trade rights and interests has been made without our receiving what could be considered compensating advantages in other directions. I can only conclude that, as in the case of Sin-Ming-Ting, the knowledge of geography on the part of the Foreign Oihce was so defective that they were unaware of what Pussia was obtaining under the expression ' Xorth of the Great "Wall of China ' when they allowed these words to be inserted in the agreement in substitution for the one word Man- churia— which was the sphere named by Russia when the negotiations began.
Our Government do not appear to have even asked for the recognition by Russia of similar preferential ri^dits for En^rland in Thibet, which is the only
RUSSIAN INTEIGUES 53
territory now intervening between the Russian sphere and our Indian Empire.
The declared object of the Anglo-Eussian A.grcc- nient was to avoid cause of conflict wliore the interests of Ivussia and England meet in China, and yet no provision whatever is made in it in regard to the enormous area south of the Great Wall and north of the Yang-tsze basin.
It accords Eussia the exclusive right to construct railways north of the Great AVall and professes to confer a similar exclusive right on England in the Yang-tsze basin, but the agreement had already been broken by Eussia's still concealed although well- known interest in the Pekin-IIankow Line, which will penetrate right down into the heart of the Yang- tsze basin.
RUSSIAN INTRIGUES
During the day of my arrival I had interviews with the British Consul and various merchants, and in I lie evening I met Mr. Kinder, the chief engineer of the Xewchwang Eailway Extension Line, whose dismissal tlic Eussians have worked so hard to secure. He is being intrigued and plotted against both at home and abroad by Eussian agents, for, with his removal, the hindrances to the absorption of the Newchwang Extension Line, which is being con- structed with British capital, would be practically gone. Tlie acquisition of this railway wottld give Eussia control not only of Man.churia, but of Eckin
54 CHINA AND THE PRESENT CEISIS
and the whole North of China, and enable her to strangle British trade.
Mr. Kinder tells me that the whole of the rails required for the railways under his management come from England and Scotland, as well as the locomo- tives— when our manufacturers can undertake to execute his orders — and thousands of wheels and axles are made in Shefheld by the Patent Shaft and Axle Co., Peach Steel and Tozer, and the Low Moor Company.
TRIP UP SHAX-HAI-KWAN-NEWCIIWANG RAILWAY
September 1. — I left Tientsin this morning in a private car on a three days' expedition up the rail- way which is being built by British capital north of Shan-hai-Kwan. My host, Mr. Cousins, saw me off and made most kind arrangements in the matter of provisioning, for there were no hotels in the district through which I was going, and we had to take our supplies of food with us. The first stopping-place after leaving Tong-ku was Lutai.
At and around Lutai is a large Chinese military camp. Each regiment had a distinct camp enclosed by mud walls, around which gay flags were flying, the flags of each regiment being different in colour and design. As the Chinese General — Yang— was leaving by the train, guns were fired on his depar- ture, and a crowd of officers escorted him to the platform. The men were of splendid physique, and looked equal to anything if they were only properly trained and armed. I took several snap-
COAL MINES 55
shots of them with my kodak, which they quite enjoyed. The officers stood in a row facing tlie reserved car which the General occupied. He cauKs out on to the platform before the train left, and the officers gave the 'kow-tow,' that is, bowed down so that their heads practically touched their knees, repeatedly to him. The General acknowledged tlie salutations in the same fashion. He was on his way to Kinchow to clear the country of bands of robbers known as ' hung-hood-se ' (redbeards). It is said that these robbers are the best fighting men in China, and that they can beat overwhelming numbers of troops.
COAL MIXING IN CIIIXA
Thirty miles further on we came to Tongshan, the district where magnesian limestone shows itself and under which are coal measures. The Kaiping collieries close by are the principal collieries of China. They produced 732,000 tons in 1898. At the Tongshan Mines the output was 470,000 tons, whilsi at Linsi Colliery, about twelve miles away, 262,000 tons were brought to bank — making a total of 1,40-4,000 tons. The output of the Kaiping Collieries has gone down very much this year (1899) owing to the mines having been robbed previously. They have h;i(l a great influx of water, which is likely to cause serious difficulties. The greater part of the coal they pro- duce is so inferior in quality that Mr. Kinder — the chief engineer of the railways — has been trying to
56 CHINA AND THE PEESENT CRISIS
get consent to use Caixliff coal, at any rate for the express trains.
At Tongshan there are railway works, where they make their own carriages and put together locomotives and other engineering work im- ported.
Chung-hou-So, which is forty miles outside the Great Wall of China, through which the railway passes, is 214 miles from Tientsin. The country traversed is practically level ; there is not a single tunnel. The railway track was in excellent order, and the travelling most comfortable. The plain on each side of the railway the whole way was covered with excellent crops of what the Chinese call ' kaoliang ' — a kind of millet, also known as brown rice. It grows often ten to twelve feet high. The grain is the principal food of the people. The stalks, which partake of the nature of bamboo, are used for a variety of purposes, including fencing, roofing of houses, etc. ; whilst the roots are dried and used as fuel. The kaoliang was in all its harvest glory, and stretching as it did for miles and miles under brilliant sunshine, the rich brown golden shades were very bt^autiful. Tlic plain has a background of fine broken rocky hills, which adds greatly to the beauty and picturesqueness of the scenery. The inhabitants also grow beans, sweet potatoes, indigo, and tobacco, whilst near Chang-li is a rich fruit-growing district, producing in the open air excellent grapes, apples, ajiricots, peaches, tind plums.
At Chang-li a crowd of fruit vendors besieged the
EAILWAY MATEEIxVL 57
train, and three to four pounds of excellent grapes were obtainable for 2icZ.
There were here and there isolated hills risin;^- up out of tlu! plain, the strata of which was tilted at a considerable angle — evidently due to volcanic action.
At Lang Chou we crossed a splendidly con- structed iron railway bridge over 700 yards in length. The whole of the girders for this and other bridges on this railway have come from England and Scot- land. Some people say that it does not matter whether the railways are constructed in China by Britishers or by Kussians, French or Germans. It is onl}^, however, in the case of this railway over which I was travelling, and which is l)eing laid down with British capital, that the products of British labour can be employed, but this is only done if they can be got on as favourable terms from England as from other nations. AVe thus deal justly by the Chinese people in enabling them to l)uy what they require in the best and cheapest market — in marked contrast to the action of Bussia, France, and Ciermany, who insist upon having the railways for which they have obtained concessions, constructed entirely of materials bought from the country of the concessionnaires irrespective of whether or not ihcy can be obtained more cheaply elsewhere.
^lost of the oflicials superintending the construc- tion of the extension part of the line, and working the portion already opened, are Britishers. The
58 CHINA AND THE PEESENT CEISIS
engine-drivers of express trains are also British, and receive 181. a month wages. If the chief engineer had a free hand he would employ many more British engine drivers, but the Chinese Government prevent this. The Russians, French, and Germans have in connection with the railways they lay down absolute control both in the construction and in the working of the lines after they are completed, and can employ as many of their own countrymen as they choose on the railway as engine-drivers or otherwise.
Lord Salisbury allowed the terms which were imposed upon us in connection with the New- chwang Extension Eailway to be dictated by Eussia, who, on the other hand, enjoys in connection with the railways she is building absolute power to do whatever she pleases,
Nearly all the towns passed were surrounded by high stone walls, turreted on the top.
At Shan-hai-Kwan we saw the Great Wall of China, stretching right up over precipitous mountains 1,000 to 1,500 feet high. It seems ahuost incredible that it could have been constructed.
On reaching Chung-hou-So, the furthermost point north to which the railway is yet opened for passenger traffic, I was conveyed on a trolly two miles further up the line to the house of the resident engineer (Mr. Newmarch). The trolly was propelled at a remarkable speed by four Chinamen, who stood on it working handles which were attached to the wheels by a crank shaft. When we came to an
PEI-TAI-HO 59
obstruction on the line they hfted the trolley bodily off and carried it past the block. While doing so they uttered musical cries in order to mark time so that they might keep step. Chinamen invariably adopt this custom in their vocations. I dined with the Newmarches ; the nearest European to them lives fifteen miles away, so that they don't often have visitors, and naturally that made my welcome all the warmer. After dinner I returned to my com- fortable railway car at the station, and at six o'clock the next morning started on the return journey. It was quite cold in the night, and in the morning the crisp air felt very much the same as it does at home on a September morning,
PEI-TAI-HO
On reaching Pei-tai-ho I found a ' chit ' from Mr. Mackintosh, the manager of the Hong-Kong and Shanghai Bank at Tientsin, placing a pony and a boy at my disposal. I first rode over to Eocky Point, five miles away — the new Eastern Settlement at the edge of the sea. This and the Western Settlement have sprung up in the last three years. There are quite a number of pretty villas, to which Europeans come in the hot weather, to enjoy the fresh sea breezes. It was a most delightful ride along a track lined by magnificent crops of ripe millet or kaoliang, with an occasional cluster of trees and a picturesque hamlet of Chinese houses. The inhabitants were busily engaged threshing out grain by what was to me a new method. They form a level floor of mud^
60 CHINA AND THE PEESENT CEISIS
which dries as hard as cement ; this is covered with ears of grain, and a stone roller drawn round and round by a donkey on the top of the grain squeezes it out of the ears. They were also grinding the grain ready for making it into food by revolving a stone roller over a flat millstone, instead of revolving a flat millstone on another flat millstone.
BAEON VON KETTELER
I first called upon the German Minister, Baron Yon Ketteler, who received me most courteously. We had an interesting talk on the situation in China, in the course of which reference was made, with mutual satisfaction, to the fact that the Germans and English have arranged to jointly construct the Tien- tsin-Chin Kiang Kailway. Baron Von Ketteler also assured me of his desire that the relations between England and Germany should grow more and more friendly, and that the two nations might be able to co-operate in furtherance of our mutual interests, not only in the Far East but elsewhere. His sympathies, next to the Teutonic race, he said, were strongly Anglo-Saxon. He expressed the opinion that, in order to give any chance of the creation in China of a strong and independent government, it would be necessary, in the first place, to put an end to the corruption and bribery which is almost universal amongst the official classes. I suggested that it was desirable that Germany should, in addition to developing the Province of Shantung, also include in her sphere the whole
SIR ROBERT HART Gl
Wcatershed of the Yellow Kiver. I explained that 1 did not mean that the country should be taken from the Chinese, but that they should be assisted in the dtn-clopment of it for the mutual advantage of the Chinese and of other nations.
SIR ROBEHT HART
I then rode a further three miles along the sea coast westward to the residence of Sir Eobert Hart, the head of the Imperial Chinese Customs, who gave me a cordial welcome and insisted on my being his guest. Sir Eobert Hart had been more than forty years in China as the head of the one department which is free from corruption, and which pays into the Chinese Exchequer the full amount of the duties col- lected on foreign imports. He spoke in the highest terms of the Chinese, and is absolutely devoted t() their interests. He favoured the collection of likin by his department, provided arrangements were made for the proper payment of Chinese officials, and for the provincial treasuries receiving an adequate pro- portion of the revenues. Should, as seems only too pL'ol)able, the Chinese have murdered their loyal friend and old faitliful servant, they will be guilty of an act of the basest ingratitude.
CHIN WANG TAO
There is a point on the coast of the Gulf of Pechili, about twelve miles from Pei-tai-ho, Ching wan tao, which the British Government got opened a> a treaty port, proclaiming this as a most important
62 CHINA AND THE PRESENT CRISIS
achievement in the interests of British commerce. To my astonishment, however, I found there neither port nor natural harbour, and no resident population whatever. It is merely an open bay surrounded by sandbanks. There are some who say it will prove an open-all-the-year-round port, whilst Newchwang and Tientsin are frozen up several months in the year, and that collieries will be opened close by, the produce of which will be shipped there.
PEI-TAI-HO TO TOXG-KU
The next morning I started at 6.30 and had a most enjoyable ride on a donkey over the hills and through the millet fields to Pei-tai-ho station, and at one o'clock was at Tong-Ku, ready to go on board whatever steamer was available for Chefoo. On the way down we again took in supplies of fruit at Chang-li, and I got a party of four Europeans who were in the train into my car. We ' pooled ' our respective provisions and had quite an enjoyable luncheon party. The climate of this district, I learn, is one of the best in the world, and certainly the Europeans looked in splendid health, and the Chinese themselves are a sturdy, active race. The more I see of the Chinese the better I like them.
A LUCKY CHOICE
On arrival at Tong-Ku, the Chinese compradores of both Messrs. Jardine, Matheson, & Co. and Messrs. Butterfield & Swire met me at the station to give me their assistance in embarking on board their
RIVAL COMPEADOEES 63
respective steamers. The arrangement had been that I should take the first steamer, and this I could not decide until I got the information from the captains. I went on board the nearest boat, Messrs. Jardine & Matheson's 'El Dorado,' first, and had not been there more than five minutes when a tug boat arrived alongside with Messrs. Butterfield & Swire's comprador on board, anxious to take me off to the ' Chung King,' bag and baggage. It was quite amusing to see the alertness of these men, and their determination, if possible, to induce me to travel by the particular steamer in which they were interested. It was a fair sample of the commercial qualities of the Chinaman. As both steamers were leaving by the same tide, and I had made the acquaintance of Captain Tamplin, a most excellent and trustworthy otHcer, I decided to remain on board the ' El Dorado.' We started about midnight, and were only able to cross the Taku bar by ploughing a furrow at least a foot deep through the soft mud.
The weather had been delightfully fine up to the time of starting, but a sudden squall came on and l)oth ship, passengers, and baggage were pitched about unmercifully for several hours. The next day the sea went down rapidly, and with perfect weather wo made good progress.
I had, I am afraid, a sense of satisfaction in the selection of the boat which I had made on hearino- that the other steamer had stuck fast upon the Taku bar and been left twelve hours behind.
\\'e reached Chefoo safely, where I disembarked.
G4 CHINA AND THE PPvESENT CRISIS
CHAPTER IV
A VISIT TO WEIHALWEI
Messrs. Jardine, Matheson, & Co.'s agent at Che- foo very kindly agreed that the ' El Dorado ' — which was starting in a few hours for Shanghai — should go into Wei-hai-Wei and put me ashore. Our Consul (Mr. Sundyus) was kind enough to telegraph to Capt. Gaunt, the Commissioner at Wei-hai-Wei, to expect me. The weather was perfect, and we had a most delightful run of a little over four hours along the coast to AYei-hai-Woi. We passed through the western deep-water inlet into the wide bay within. It was sunset — the lights and shades and colouring of the bay and the hills around were most beautiful. When about an hour off Wei-hai-Wei, we saw a curious storm whirling over that place, and on landing I learnt there had been a remarkable waterspout. It was estimated to be at least 1,000 feet high, and 100 feet in diameter. We came closer into the shore than when I passed Wei-hai- AVei bound for Chefoo, and I now discovered t^iat there were considerable fishing villages along the coast, and that the land, which is cultivated in terraces, is more fertile than I had imagined.
THE KOWSIIIXG AFFAIR Go
AN INCIDENT OF THE CIIINO-JAPANESE WAR
Capt. Taraplin of the ' El Dorado ' was first ofiiccr on board the British steamer ' Kowshing,' whi.'h was sunk by the Japanese, witli l,oOO soldiers on board, as practically the first act of war on the part cf Japan. This was done althon;:h tlic ' I\owshin,'4 ' N\as flying the British flag, after she liad Ix'/^n given ;in opportunity to surrender. The capitain, laiov> iiie: tliere was no escape, was prepared to surrentlcr, but the Chinese soldiers on board would not allow it. Tht-y preferred that the ship should 1)0 sunk and their lives lost there and then, rather thnn be sub- jected to the tortures which they themselves are in the habit of inflicting upon prisoners, and which tht.y im;igined would be their fate if they fell alive mto tlie liMuds of tlie J;ip;inesc. ('apt. T.-uuphn lold us that the ' Kowshing ' was not torj'cdoed, as lias been currently reported, but sunk by shot and shell. The captain himself and General A*on Jlaii- neken w(>re the only I'hu'opeun survivors. Thr}- saved their lives by plunging into tlie sea and swimming to the Japanese nlan-('f-^^■ar. A\'hi!sL Liuy were tlius », ndeavouring to e:^cape, the Chimse :-<jldiers on beard their own steamer trit.d l(.) shoot ihem, under tlv; impr(.-..io!i thai their (Mj^ture had i). c-n etVected tliruugh the bril^ory of tiie Briti.di olticers by the -lapane.-e. The claim \\'hich was made by th^^ British Government on the Chinese Giivernmctit fijr the value of the steamer and for
F
66 CHINA AND THE PKESENT CRISIS
coii]pensaLion for the Britishers on board who lost their lives or property has not yet been paid.
WEI-HAI-WEI
The ' El Dorado ' dropped anchor directly oppo- site Capt. Gaunt's (the Commissioner's) residence, which is in a picturesque and attractive square of buildings, with several courtyards inside. These were used by the Chinese when in occupation of this place as the Naval Reception Yamen.
The Chinese town of Wei-hai-AYei is on the mainland, and it is on the inland side of the island Liu-Kung-tau (' tau ' being Chinese for island), which is two and a quarter miles long and three- quarters of a mile in '^vidth, that the new Wei-hai- "Wei is situated. At the western end of this island is one inlet into Wei-hai-"\Vei harbour, which is one and a quarter miles wide. In this is the deep- w;iter channel, with nine to seventeen fathoms of water, GOO to 700 yar^ls in width.
At the eastern end of the island is the other entrance lo the harbour, aljout l^\'o and a half miles across, v> ith an average depth of twenty-one feet at low water of ordinary summer-spring tides, and a fool or two more when thcj-e is an ordmary summer tide. It is a curious fact that in the winter the water ].-, two or three feet lower than in summer. It i\ this broad entrance, perfectly accessible to tCi-pudo boats at any poiiit, which makes Wei-hai- AV i c-'imparativel r useless as a naval base, unless an
A VISIT TO WEI-IIAI-WEI 67
enonnou.T breakwater be constructed, at a cost, possibly, of two or three million pounds sterling, to reduce the width of the entrance, so that it can be readil}- and efi'ectaally defended against an enemy.
.V QiUESTIOX FOR THE NAVAL AUTIiOEITIES
Wlien we remember that Kussia's great naval l)a,M_' at Port Arthur is only eighty-five miles away, il will be cb/ar tliat Wei-lui-Wei will b..:; too much at her njcrcy if left in its present condition. Th(3 question fjiciiig the naval authorities al home is whether they are prepared to spend the money neci;ss;_iry to make it into an impregnable first-class euAMl base, or b'ave the object for \vliich they took it unattained. .Vny expenditure thai did not accom- pli^li thi'-, would be merely money waned.
On the i-^kv-id nud tive iieighbouring slior^.s of thie mj.inl-nd there are a numl)er of for'.s, from ^■. ];i 11 111" Japanese renjoved all the', .euns when lliey evaeual'-.d. the pliee. Though v,e h;ive been in [)•..).— ;"- jinn r)f \\'ei-] !ai- W'oi fur the last ilfteen moiitlis ilbOOe neil ;i single gun ha^ ijeen mounied : and, nidi'od. ri'ine of L':c elliL-r worivs which are required, if it i> to Ije made even .;. secondary njival base, have yei been CiinmenceJ. Xo attempt hfir. l3i}en madr lo repair the subst^intial iron puer. half of wlerh i-. m exctJlent order, and tlie e(jlanms of th'- remamiiig half ;ill m po-iiion. w.ating only for the upper part to be fixed to make a necessary and >rr\-ir.ai)lu laiidueu-stne'e. "Were this done, steamers
V 2
f)8 CHINA AND THE PEESENT CEISIS
drawing up to twenty- five feet of water could safely go alongside.
CHINESE TROOPS
The only practical step of a defensive character that seems to have been taken has been the enrol- ment by Colonel Bower of 800 Chinese soldiers, who are rapidly being trained into smart, well-drilled troops. They are quartered on the mainland, about four miles across the l:)ay. I went over to see Colonel Bower, and was taken round the barrack*,. The men vrere nnistered, so that T might take some snapshots with my kodak, in order to show my friends at home. These soldiers are paid eight dollars (Mexican) a month, in addition to rations. At the end of the month, when they received their money in full, without anything being de- ducted by the paymaster for what is known in China as ' squeeze,' they were greatly astonished. As the news of this unusual treatment spread, the number of recruits applying nmJtiplicd.
Commissioner (iamit very IvJndly placed his steam launch at my disposal, and I was able to get al)out tlie bay, and see everytliing.
I vi:^itLd aho the walled-in Chinc:-c town of Wei-hai-Wei, which is on the mainland, and has iibout 5,000 inhabitants. The houses are of stone with excellent tiled roofs.
There arc hot sulphur springs of a t-mperature of about eighty deg., with baths kept in excellent order.
A SMALL POLICE FORCE G9
THE ENGLISH sriiEPd:
The English ' sphenj ' is ten miles inland from the shores of the harbour, and a great mistake has been made in leaving this Chinese town — in our sphere — under Chinese jurisdiction. A short time ago Chinese soldiers pursued a Chinaman through British territory and killed him in the sea. It was alleged that he was a deserter. All attempts to secure the arrest of the officer who was at the head of these Chinese soldiers have failed by reason of the weakness of the British Representative at Pekin, who wishes to accept the excuses of the Yamen, and to iel. the matter drop.
This increases enormously the difficulties of the C()mniission.er, who is expected to keep order and to protect life and property in our Wei-hai-Wei territory — an area of 300 square miles and con- taining a population of nearly 300,000 souls, with a force of ten Chinese policemen under an English superintendent.
Included in what is leased to us is Shi-tao Bay, \Mth splendid fisheries, also quarries from which any quantity of excellent red granite can be obtained.
In addition to the territory thus acquired W(^ enjoy tln' right of moving trijops up to I'Jl deg. 40 mil], longitude, and of erecting barracks and hospitals.
The Wei-hai-AVei harbour covt^rs about 20 square nnles — it varies in width from I to 4i miles. The deep-water portion, 0 to 10 fathoms, is, however,
70 CHINA AND THE PRESENT CEISIS
only about 700 square yards. A dredger is at work increasing the deep-water area, and as the mud is very soft it is not anticipated that there will be any serious difficulty in accomplishing this. A deep- water dock could be easily made at a moderate cost.
HOSPITALITY AFLOAT
T went on board H.M.'s first-class cruiser ' Aurora,' to pay my respects to Post-Captain Bailey. I also called on hieutonant Cowper, commanding H.M.'s gunboat ' Plover,' and he very kindly agreed that I might go back with him in the ' Plover ' to Chef 00 the next day.
Captain Gaunt invited the captain oi the Italian man-of-war which was then at Wci-hai-Wei, also the British naval and military officers, to meet me at tiffin, and in the evening we all went to dine with Post-Captain Bailey on l)oard the ' Aui'ora.' Captain Bailey is a fine specimen of a breezy, hearty British sailor. He reminded me of Lord Charles Beresford. His hospit;i,lity was of the mo=it generous description, and, when we ha^l in addition an exccdlent band of music on a deck closed in all round with gay flags of all nations, and lu'illiantly lighted with electric light, one felt that even right away in the Far East one had not got bc^yond the l)oimds of civilisation or of pleasant social life.
Before dinn(^r Captain Gaunt and I mounted ponies, and lii'd an lionr's scamper round the island, in the course of which we saw tlie shooting rang(.-?^, which are of th^' most crinipk;te description.
MOURNING FOR ANCESTORS 71
We met a procession of men uttering loud lamentations, followed by a small procession of women with white garments over their heads. I thought that they were mourners who were sorrow- ing for the loss of some loved one, and was surprised to learn that they were really mourning aloud for ancestors, some of whom had died 100 or even 200 years ago.
The Commissioner had bought up a number of graves, and this was the ceremonial attending the removal of their departed ancestors to a new resting- place. The worship of their ancestors seems to have the strongest hold upon the Chinese and forms the salient feature in their religion.
At 6.30 A.:\r. the next morning I was on the top of Centurion Hill -500 feet high, which is the highest point in the island— and had a glorious view of the whole harbour and of the British zone on the main- land, which contains some fine hills, rising up to an altitude of 1,500 feet, with rich valleys in- tervening.
RAILWAY COMMUXICATION
Mr. Balfour, unasked by Germany, telegraphed the C4ernian Government when we took Wei-hai-Wei that we had no intention of connecting this place 'oy railway with the province of Shantung. I characterised this as a fatuous act, whereupon Mr. Balfour retorted that the coiistruction of a railway from Wei-hai-Wei into the interior of Shantung was a physical impossibility. I wished the other day
72 CHINA AND THE PEESENT CEISIS
when at Wei-liai-Wei that I had had Mr. Balfour with me and been able to show him that a railway could be made to connect AVei-hai-Wei with Chefoo, a distance of sixty miles, without having to surmount any rising ground of an elevation of more than 100 feet. The fact is, that the Britishei-s out here are perfectly prepared to find the money to build a light railway at once, but the pledge that Mr. Balfour gave to Germany prevents it.
The harbour at Chefoo is very exposed, and often ships can neither load nor unload for days together, whereas, on the other hand, the splendidly sheltered anchorage of the great Wei-hai-Wei harbour would allow work to proceed even in the roughest weather.
POSSIBILITIES OF TEADE
The Province of Shantung is well populated. In addition to the traffic that would be diverted from Chefoo to Wei-hai-AVei, there is room for an enormous development of trade with the interior of the province, and at least two other railways could be built into the interior in other directions to tap this trade without encountering serious engineering difficulties.
Were it not for the bungling of Her Majesty's Government, Wei-hai-Wei might have become an important commercial port, and the revenues thus derived would have justified all necessary expendi- ture, requisite both from a commercial and a naval standpoint. The statement of Her Majesty's Government that Wei-hai-AVei could not be made a commercial port is quite contrary to the fact, and it
PROPOSED ANGLO-GERMAN ARRANGEMENT 73
only shows the loss and disadvantage of having our vast commercial interests in the hands of so neglect- ful a Government.
TRANSFEK OF WEI-HAI-WEI TO GEEMAJS'Y
Having debarred ourselves from making Wei-hai- Wei into a commercial port, I am still of the opinion, which I expressed in the House of Commons, that the sooner we hand it over to the Germans the better, and allow them to construct a railway to connect it with Chefoo.
Of course, we should in making this arrangement obtain a definite and binding undertaking from the German Government that British trade should enjoy equal rights and privileges with German trade throughout their sphere of influence in China. As a further condition of our handing over Wei-hai-Wei to them, it would be necessary to have an acknowledg- ment of similar preferential rights and privileges in our favour in the Yang-tsze basin to those they enjoy in Shantung, and an understanding that wo should have their support in taking a suitable second naval base at or near the mouth of the Yang-tsze liivcr in place of Wei-hai-Wei.
Captain Gaunt went on board H.M.S. 'Plover' to see me off, and Captain Bailey also came to say ' good-bye.' The weather was perfect, and we had a most delightful passage back to Chefoo. The ' Plover ' was bringing up the jnail to Chefoo for despatch to England. AVhen on duty of this sort she only steams eight knots an hour, with an ex-
74 CHINA AND THE PRESENT CEISIS
peiiJiture of coal of about one ton for every thirty miles steamed in moderate or fine weather. They use AVelsh coal on the * Plover ' and our other ships of war, and English north country coal for the dredger in AVei-hai-AVei harbour.
The brass fittings on board the ' Plover ' were like a looking-glass ; the guns and everything on board were spotless. Captain Cowper was very kind in explaining the mechanism of the guns, and in giving me other interesting information.
We anchored off Chefoo about 5 p.m., and the captain sent me ashore in his gig, afterwards joining me at dinner at the British Consul's.
I am now waiting for a chance to get to Port Arthur. There are rumours of plague, typhoid, and dysentery raging in the place, and the steamer that goes there every other day has been stopped by the Eussian Government for some reason of their own. It therefore remains to be seen ^\hether I shall not be prevented paying my intended visit to the place which, of all others, has been the most heard of in connection with recent events in the Far East.
75
CHAPTEE V A VISIT TO POET AETHUB
T WAS not disappointed of my visit to tlie key of the situation in Xorth China, viz. Port Arthur. After a delay of two days I got a passoge on one of the China iNIerchant Co.'s steamers, the * Kwangchi,' of about 400 tons. The vessel h;^.d no cargo on board, and we had a terrible pitching on the passagf! over tlie eighty-live miles of the Gulf of Pechili, which stretches from Chefoo to Port Arthur. The journey occupii.d ten hours instead of eight, in con&e=juence of the liad weather.
sf.izuet: by Russia
It will he remembered tltat until this great forti'f-^s was seized by Pussia in 1898, we had, under tivaty ^\■^lll China, the right to send our ships ot \\;!r there v/henever we desired to do so, and to ( njoy tfjual rights and privileges with the Pussians. At till close of tlie Chino-.Iapanese War, Pussia, Ih'aricf. ,111 1 Geruiany compelled Japan to evacuate Port Arthur, v liicli she had ca[)tured. Pussia's objection Wi's th;it if allowed to remain there Japan Wijuld be a constan.t menace to the Government at
76 CHINA AND THE PRESENT CRISIS
Pekiii, and jet withm two years she seized Port Arthur herself. At the time when Kussia took possession (March 1898) she had only eleven fighting ships on this coast, whilst we had a mag- nificent force of twenty-four lying in the Gulf of Pechili, close to Port Arthur, as every one supposed for the purpose of upholding British rights. I have it on the highest authority that had England then expressed a firm determination to maintain her rights equally with Russia in Port Arthur, that nation would have withdrawn her ships without firing a shot. Nothing astonished the Russians so nuich as the withdrawal of our ships from Port Arthur in response to their protest, and tliat they should have been allowed by us to enter into possession of the prize of the Far East, in a naval and militar}' sense without opposition. What our Government should have done was to have kept our ships of war at Port Arthur in accordance with our treaty rights, and opened up friendly negotiations with Russia with the view of coming to a fair and equitable understanding in regard to the whole situation in China.
PORT ARTHUR
The coast to the right and left of the entrance to Port Arthur is a series of cliffs and bold hills up to about 400 feet high. On the summit of each hill is a strong fort, armed with heav}' guns. There is only one entrance, which is not more than .300 yards wide, with a deep-water channel of about 200 yards. On tlie right, the Gold Mountain rises almost per-
A VISIT TO rORT ARTHUR 77
pendicularly 400 feet, and is surmounted by an enormous fort. 'J'he bluff on the western side of the entrance is also covered by formidable batteries. fnside the bay, facin;j,' the entrance, there is a further powerful 1)attery, with six heavy disappear- ing f^ums.
On anchoring, we were boarded by Kussian officials, who declined to allow any European passengers to di^enibark, on the ground that the inedical oliicer at Chefoo had omitted to enter them in th(^ ship"s papers. I thereupon produced my k'tier of introduction fr(un Mons. de Giers to the (lovernor of Port Arthur, and stated that I had come for the purpose of visiting him, and wished to pay my respects to His Excellency without delay. Thi,- worked like magic. The medical ofiicer re- turned on shore instantly to report, and within a very icw minutes the harbour master arrived in a beautiful steam laimch, which the Admiral had placed at my disposal during my visit to Port Arthur. He said, as far as I was concerned, a mistake liail been mad{\ and ^vas full of apologies f'lr the ^light detention which had taken place. The othtr luu'opean passengi rs, ho^\evcr, were pre- ^"^ '!t' ■! (t! I ml)irk'ing fur .^onie consideraldri time.
On lan'lmg i wrnt direct to the re-idence of ( ii neral SDubrititch, the governor, who spoke P^nglish ■i 1 rfeetly. He gave me a courteous welcome to Toi't Artlnir. remarking that he had been advised "[ my inten:ied visit by Mons. de Giiers ; also, that the Eu>sian Consul at Chefoo had wired him that I
73 CHINA AND THE PRESENT CRISIS
had left for Port Arthur. He promised every facility for seeing Port Arthur and the neighbourhood. "Within an hour he returned my call on board, accompanied l)y his aide-de-camp, Lieut. Peresvett Sultan, who was to show me round the place.
WEST FOKT LAGOON
We first visite :1. by stt-am launch, a large lagoon known as the We-^t Port. Vv'hich i- separated from the deep-water portion of Port Arthur by a very narrow sandbank. Tnis lagoon ha'-^ u narrow channel, Vv-ith 2^ to 5 fathoms of water, and a large area from ,| to ^ fathom deep. It can be cheaply dredged, and has no current to cause it to silt up.
A deep-water area of one square mile can thus be made. It is :.urrounde;' Vr fine hilh. At the south eu'l of this there is a l'jv.--lying suutch I'f country r;bout l.v miles across leading through to tiir-^ sea, a niil(.- to the west of tiio j^resent e-.trciiice into Port ,\rthur. It is cent; mplat'^d ultimately ij cut a channel tM th(; S'.a ihrouj:u this, ui 'j.'dc;r to have an indepen'-lent (;ntra';Ctj into the C"iimierci:d part of the port. TliL wcathrr wa • i':riL'[ - - uri;:;hi ounohin.j, and cool fresh Iireeze.-. The conLrac^l ijttv/een the new Kussian koanch— in v/hich Vv'e rc^jidly joroceeded from one point to another — ar;d the old C'Ut-of-date launch of tke British Comnns-ioner at Wt/i-kai-Wei v'/a- most maih^rd.
It is deci'ied "by the Government :jf .~-?t. I'eters- burg that the commercial port in connection with Port Aitiiur shcdl h<j situat'-.'d on tlic north shore
FORTS AND DOCKS 79
of the West Port lagoon —a site in close proxiniitj- to the terminus of the branch hne which is ah-eady constructed to connect Port Arthur with the Russian- INIanchurian Paihvay, which has its principal termi- nus at the Port of Talienwan.
By this, however, it is not intended that it shall be an open port or a treaty port, but only a port through which commerce needed in connection with the Kussian naval and military forces at Port Arthur shall be c iriiod on under Kussian control.
We next took a carriage, which v> as awaiting us, and drove round the town and its vicniity. New buildings are being erected everywhere, including extensive barracks and oflicers' quarters.
Behind Port Arthur the country is also hilly, and (.very hilltop is bristling with fortifications, guns liemg mounted in all directions.
The deep water inside the entrance is limited in extent, one lia'-in bcing'200 x 400 yard:, witli a depth of 5 i' too.l ffithoms, and a second basin 100 x 200 with oh i) 6h failiom.-. In ad^iilion to t'nib there is a basin kn(j\\n ;i , l^a t Port, ^\'hich has ]jcrn artiiirirdly ci';:,^tni -t' d, with a depth of iilji/at bix fr.ihomo, an I 1 - capai'le ol' Iwildin;.; scver;d ships of ^v;.lr. ll is in cnnectiun with lhi.-> th;U tht Chinese built the valuable dry dock ^\■illcll came mto the hands of the I\us.,an-- when tliey took the place. Tliey have kir^ely increased its size and have extensive j'epairing yai'i mac'riine slie.ps adjacent to it. Close by the East Port basin is a sheet of shallow fresh water, whick. can be easiiy converted into an additional dock.
80 CHINA AND THE PEESENT CEISIS
STOn-El) OUTSIDE THE RUSSIAN FORTS
We left the carriage at the base of the Gold Mountain and climbed it by a winding road up which there runs a tramway used to convey water and supplies to the fort. We proceeded without interruption until we had passed two or three guns, when we were challenged by a sentry. Lieut. Sultan suddenly discovered that he had forgotten his pass, and was very sorry that we should, therefore, not be able to proceed further. How far this omission was intentional or otherwise I won't express an opinion. However, the result was that I did not manage to get inside their fortifications.
There had been rumours of the seizure of Mas- sampo on the Korean coast by Eussia ; that this h;id been followed by the mobilisation of the Japanese forces, and that war was imminent between Japan and Russia. I saw, however, no sign of any activity at Port Arthur which would indicate that these rumours were true. I noticed also that their stocks of coal were exceedingly low. The place was, however, full of soldiers and sailors. Eussia has -10,000 troops at Talienwan and Port Arthur.
Mr. A. Bostelman, manager of the Chinese Eastern Eailway Company's Marine Departirient, Ciilled upon mc, He informed me that the railway between Port xVrthur and Talienwan, also up north as far as INIukden — some 300 miles in all — will be opeij in two months. The permanent bridges, how- ever, will not be completed for some time. He
RUSSIAN OPINIONS 81
states that in connection witli his steamer depart- ineut he has at present no fewer than seveji sliips under construction in England.
I was sorry to find that the trade at Port Arthur is practicall_y all done by Americans and Germans, and that the British have hardly had a look in so far.
In the evening I dined with General Soubotitch. His wife and Lieutenant Sultan joined us at dinner. We liad a most interesting conversation — the General expressed liberal and enlightened views. He said that he must admit that England's policy had largely failed in China recently. He recognises that the French have lost ground both as regards influence and the respect felt towards them by other nations over the Dreyfus case, and otherwise during the last two or three years. General Soubotitch stated he was very desirous that I should remain two more days at Port Arthur, promising that he would give me a special permit to visit any of the forts which I might desire to see, and also would make special arrangements to have me conveyed by steam laimch to Talienv.an, where I would be shown ev( rything. I much regretted that the unceitniut}' of finding a steamer to get me dov^ii to SliangluLi in tunc to j'^n ]\[r. Archibald Little in our intfiidi'd trip up the Yang-tsze prevented my acccplini;- tins oli'er.
I-;i'-<[AN DESIOXS .VXD BEITISII IXACTIOX
During tlie day tlait 1 had spent there I had ob- t:iii:ed a good idea of the town and harl)our and of
G
82 CHINA AND THE PRESENT CRISIS
the country in close proximity to Port Arthur. I had also seen quite sufficient of the fortifications to show me conclusively that the Russians have already made the place practically impregnable, and are now in a position to defend it against all comers. It would be interesting to visit their forts, but not being a military man, my opinion in regard to the construction of their fortifications and the character of the guns would have been practically valueless.
Amongst the drawbacks of Port Arthur is the absence of good water. They have water, but it is of a very indifferent quality, and insufficient in quantity, and, as at Wei-hai-Wei, the bulk of the water they use is condensed. The country at and around Port Arthur is also destitute of trees, and is very barren in appearance.
The Chinese town was in a filthy condition — it is no wonder that disease is rife. Our steamer had expected to bring back many Chinese coolies anxious to get away from Russian employment, but none turned up. It was believed that this was due to the Russians preventing their leaving. They are worked in gangs under Russian soldiers, and I am afraid are often subjected to brutal treatment. I did not see any evidence of this myself, but I am assured by those who are in a position to know that the poor Chinese find the Russians very hard taskmasters, and that their labour cannot altogether be considered free.
General Soubotitch undertook to get and send me some photographs of Port Arthur and Talienwan.
TA LIENWAN 83
There is at present little to see at the latter place except the bay. It has an entrance about five miles wide, and the inside area of the bay opposite this entrance is about six miles square, with water 5^ to 8 fathoms in depth. It is open and exposed to the south only. Inside, however, and sheltered by a promontory, is another bay known as Victoria Bay, in which there is a depth of water of from 4 to i^ fathoms over an area of two square miles. This it is proposed shall be the commercial port.
The conviction forced upon me by what I saw at Port Arthur and Xewchwang is that Eussia has a settled determination not only to remain at Port Artliur but ultimately to annex at least the North of China. On the other hand, the impression created on my mind at Wei-hai-Wei was that our occupation could hardly be regarded as serious, and might be (•nded any day. P^nfortmiately, our withdraw^al would be regarded as further evidence of our weak- ness, and would be another blow to our already shattered prestige in this part of the world, be- cause when we occupied it we made the stupid and undiplomiitic declaration that we intended to remain at AVei-liai-Wei as long as Eussia remained at Port Arthur. If tlie Government did not mean business thuy should liave left Wei-hai-Wii alone altogether, and I h;ive alwciys hold that tliey ought to have occupi''d a place at or near the mouth of the Yang- tsze Eiver, where our trade interests are so pre- dominant, instead of taking Wei-hai-Wei.
84 CHINA AND THE PRESENT CRISIS
CHAPTEE YI
AMEBIC AN AND JAPANESE TJRADE COMPETITION
Mo)idtn/, August 11. — I arrived at Chefoo from Poi't Arthur at 7 a.m. There was no steamer going to Kiao-Chau. I went to an afternoon picnic on a hill al:'Out four miles out of Chefoo, known as the 'Pinnacle,' 1,811 feet high. We were carried in chairs to the foot of the hill, which we climbed. The view was most extensive, embracing not only Chefoo liarbour, and the rich plains studded with populous villages stretching right into the interior behind Chefoo, but also similar plains as far as the eye could reach in the direction of AVei-hai-Wei, over whicdi Mr. Balfour's ' physically impossible ' railway could readily ])e made. On the way I saw a multitude of threshing floors made of mud which had dried as hard as cement. On these, piles of the ears of the millet (knoliang) were being beaten with flails. They were also winnowing the grain by throwing 'liovelfuls high in the air so that the wind might ))low away the chafl" and the corn be left in a heap l^ehind.
I slept at the family hotel right on tlie edge of tlic sea, one and a half miles over the beach from
CHINA INLAND MISSION 85
Ch( foo. In the mornino-, looking out upon the spU'iulid buildings of the China Inland Mission, with a large vineyard capping the summit of a hill, it was difficult ti) imagine that I was in China.
CIIIXA INLAND MISSI(3N
I \-isited the China Inland Mission schools next mornmg and found both boys and girls hard at work — they begin lessons at 7 a.m. There is a high school both for boys and girls, also a preparatory school with a total of nearly 200 scholars. The children of missionaries are educated free, and the schools are also open to the children of European residents in China on payment of reasonable fees. The majority of the children remain at school during the holidays, as this is one of the healthiest places in China, and the distance that they would have to travel home makes it impossible for them to be with their parents during the vacations. They have two sanatoriums on the Compound for sick missionaries. The China Inland Mission has nearly 800 missionaries at worlv in China, and on the whole they consider they arc doiijg successful work. They have over 200 stations, but are more largely engaged in travelling about in the interior of China doing evangelistic work. This Mission, in c;>ntradistinc- tion to all oihcrs, is inter-denoniinational and inter- national, which appears to me to be a great advan- tage. Th',> Mission includes men of dilYcrent denominations. Amongst them are members of the Church of England, Baptists, A\'esleyans, and Presby-
86 CHINxV AND THE PRESENT CRISIS
tcrians. They aim at teaching simply the broad principles of Christianity, and those who work in connt;ction with the Mission sign their acquiescence in a few main points in thematter of creed, to which all members of Evangelical churches can readily assent. Churchmen are, however, appointed to work in one particular district and the Baptists in another, and if they leave their station they are followed, if possible, by a man of the same religious denomina- tion. This great work was, as is well known, founded by the Eev. Hudson Taylor. Many men of wealth have devoted both their lives and their money to this Mission.
TEADE OF CHEFOO
The total value of the trade c^f Chc^foo m 1897 v.'as over three million pounds sterling, and out of 25,385,301 total tonnage of shipping entered and cleared in the same year, 13,027,559 was British.
1 am sorry to say that British trade in North Cliina is declining, and American and Japanese trade is increasing by leaps and bounds. Eight-elevenths of tlic trade of Chefoo is done by the United States of America and Japan, and only three-elevenths b}' ]-lngland and tlie ]'est of thr world. Manchester can no longer compete ^vith the United States of America in the importation of drills, jeans, and sh',Ltin'j>, owing to the low prices at which the latter c )uniry can land this class of goods in China, b'reighls frf)m New Yorlv nvc lower than fi'oni Liver- p x'l, ind tl'!/' go()ds pass tlirou;j,h fewer hands in
AMERICAN COMPETITION 87
America. Prices arc also influenced l)y the fact that while American manufacturers are using every effort to secure the market here, Manchester has more orders at present than can be immediately executed, and the large demand from India keeps tlic mills fully occupied.
America docs not yet compete with Great Britain m finer makes.
In regard to tin plates, on which the Americans put a heavy protective duty against their admission into America, and thus succeeded in establishing works to provide for their own requirements, I find that they luive been able also to increase their exports of tin plates from 4,188,000 pounds in 189(3 to 14,934,133 pounds in 1898. These are notes of warning to English manufacturers wdiich ought not to be ignored, as they sliow that unless our worlds are absolutely up to date, we shall be left behind in the race. The fact that in 1895 Great Britain sold five times as much as America, while in 1898 she sold only twice as much, shows how rapidly our kinsmen across the Atlantic are invading a market in which we previously enjoyed supremacy. One reason wdiy America is able to wrest our trade from us is the superiority of their Bureau of Foreign Commerce. They issue dail\', monthly, and yearly consular reports containing full infor- mation as to openings for trade and the classes of goods required all over the world. These reports are printed within a few days after being received, and supplied to all apjdicants frc; ; wi ilst
88 CHINA AND THE PRESEiNT CRISIS
in England months arc often allowed to pass before a report is issued, and then it is only to be had by paying for it. Their consul at Chefoo, where they have made such rapid strides, devotes himself morninf;-, noon, and night to promoting the exten- sion of American trade with his district. On the other hand, too many of the British consuls seem to consider it no part of their business to assist British traders.
MY CHINESE SECRETARY
Mr. Bourne, our acting consul at Shanghai, sent me up a Ciiinaman who had been educated at King's College, London, and graduated at an American university, to act as secretary and interpreter during my North China trip. He was instructed to meet me on arrival of the Korean steamer at Chefoo ; but, though he reached the place the day before, and rvpDortel hini'-elf to Messrs. Butterfield & Swire, he was neither seen nor heard of again up to the t'nr; of my departure for Xewcliwang. On my return t!) Ch':'f(;o ho \\as sent for, and in explanalion of his failm\.' to meet uk; as instructed, lie said ihat he tliought a .gentleman would not care to be called ufion by his private secretary until after tiftin, and that he hau assumed that I would stay at least a day or two iu Cliefoo. I also found that this .uiMudee had liis servant travelling with him — at my exjiense. On arrival at Tientsin, when I told him to look filici' the transport ition of my baggage to the hot'], he replied that he hnd himself to settle at his
KTAO-CH.\U 89
hotel, and that he had not understood that he had been engaged to do servant's work. He was, therefore, much too grand a gentleman for my purpose, and as I found that high political per- sonages, such as Prince Ching and Li-Hung-Chang, object to the employment of an unknown interpreter in interviews, I decided to send him back to Shanghai. He was un.able to write shorthand, and was, therefore, useless to me for secretarial work. I hope he is not a fair example of a Europeanised Chinaman. He spoke English admirably, but his conceit and vanity were unbounded.
STEANDED AT CHEFOO
I found that the first steamer leaving Chefoo for Shanghai which would call at Kiao-C!iau would not leave for four days, a delay I could ill afford.
I telegraphed to Messrs. Jardine, Matheson,& Co., of Shanghai, asking that their steamer, the ' Lien Shing,' which was leaving that day direct for Shanghai, might c.dl at Kiao-Chau for four hours, in order that I nn'ght see Germany's latest acquisi- tion. Tliey most kindly conscuLed, and I left at 4 P.M. bound for Kiao-Chau. Tlie Britibh consul, Dr. Molyneux, and Mr. Donelly came on board to see nic off.
VISIT TO KIAO-CHAU
My visit to Kiao-Chau was made on September 4 under the most favourable circumstances. This place is on the e^ist coast of tlie great Province of
90 CHINA AND THE PRESENT CRISIS
Shantung, containing a population of 87 millions, and was seized b}^ the Germans in 1897, as repara- tion for the murder of two German missionaries. They are making it the base of operations designed to extend their influence throughout Shantung, and possibly far beyond.
About 17 miles off we passed right under the splendid ragged-edged mountain Loshar, which looked grand as it rose almost sheer out of the sea 3,530 feet above the water. This mountain is included in territory leased by Germany, and, German-like, they have already a mountain hotel near the summit as a sanatorium.
Eleven miles to the west of Kiao-Chauis another fine mountain, Tanioshan, 2,249 feet, and all round are rugged hills forming the background of low, undulating, well-cultivated land.
The entrance to the magnificent Bay, which covers 140 square miles at high water, is only 1'} miles across. On the left is Cape Evelyn, 51(3 feet high, whilst on the right is a low-lying pro- montory.
Chin-tau, the present port, is outside this en- trance, and exposed to easterly' gales. The Germans intend to transfer the port to the opposite side of the promontory — that is, inside the large bay ; and they are already busily engaged in con- structing two breakwaters at a cost of 250,000/., so as to have a hirgc area of deep water in which vessels may anchor without being exposed to gales which may sweep across the inland l)ay.
A SHELTERED HARBOUR 91
Lord Charles Bcresford, in his I'rief visit to Kiiio-Cliau, does not appear to have ascertained what the Germans really intended to do, as he speaks of its heing necessary that a hreakwater should ])e constructed to protect shipping from easterly gales, evidently assuming that the port would remain where it is at present.
Kiao-Chau Bay is one of tiic best-sheltered harbours on the east coast of China, and has ex- tensive, perfectly land-locked deep-water anchorage independent of the new port which is being made. The general appearance of the country around is barren, and there is scarcely a tree to be seen ; but the Germans have a special forestry department actively engaged in ascertaining the kind of trees which will grow the ])est, and in planting large areas.
Substantial stone buildings arc being rapidly erected, and there is already a large first-class hotel.
On anchoring some distance from the shore, we soon saw a steam launch rapidly ploughing her way across the bay towaj'ds us. It was tiie launch of his Excellency Captain Jaeschke, the tiovernor of the port, and had on Ixjiird his aide-de-camp, Baron Lilieneron, who is a captain in the German Army. Ho had come to receive me on. bihalf of the GoVLinor, and ^^l■ immediately proceeded to Govern- ment Il;;u-,e, where I found they liad delayed tittin an liour for my benefit. Tlie Governor had been ad\iot;d ]>v Jxirun \un Tvetteler, th.'- (ierma.n ^finister
92 CHINA AND THE PRESENT CRISIS
at Pekin, and also by the German Consul at Chei'oo, of my intended visit. He expressed himself specially pleased to welcome me as a ni'-mher of the British House of Commons, adding that I was the first who had thus honoured him with a visit, and that even no member of the German Parliament had yet been to Kiao-Chau. He was strongly of opinion that it would be of the greatest possible advantage if they would come and see for themselves the possibilities of the Far East.
Ac3ompanied by the Governor's aide-de-camp and Dr. Schrameier, the Civil Commissioner, I started on horseback to explore the whole district. We first of all ascended Bismarckbcrg, 4.50 feet, from whicli avo had a perfect view, including the largo buy, the sea coast stretching tiway east and west, and the country in the background. In the course of our thr(?.c hoiu's' ride wo saw practically evcrytliing. Wo visited the now har])our works and tlio construction AN'orks in connection with the rail- way which the Germans arc building to Tsinnn, in tl;o pr.,'vinco of ShiUiLung, a place about 300 miles inland from iviao-Chau. This railway, they antici- pate, will ])e completod in 2^, years. It will be con- iiocto:! at Tsinaii willi the r.-iilway which is to be built from Tientsin to Chinki.-.'.ng jdntly by the Ge]'mai]s and British. Tlio Chinese workmen simply swariwol liko; hers on both liarljour and rail- way works. The Germans ai'o canploying fully 5,000, and, coriti'iirv t') tht; ( xpfricnctj of th;' Pu-siar^, their
TRADE OF KIAO-CHAU 93
trouble lies in the multitude of applications for work which they have to refuse. There are 1,400 German soldiers at Kiao-Chau, and, following our example at Wei-hai-Wei, they intend to enrol Chinese soldiers, starting with 120 men.
At Port Arthur the Eussians liave built their forts and mounted guns before they have made the place. The Germans, however, say tliat they are going to create the town of Kiao-Chau first, and \m11 then construct its defences. Thoy have a few guns mounted.
TRADE OF KTAO-CHAU
Both the Governor and tlie Civil Commissioner strongly desired that I should make it known at home that Kiao-Chau will be open to British trade on precisely the same terms and conditions as to German, and just in the same way as British posses- sions are equally open to German and British traders.
Lord Charles Beresford anticipated that the regulations as to land would hinder the development of Kiao-Chau. I macle careful inquiries as to this, and take an opp.'site view. The regulations adopted l)y the Germans might with great advantigo bo put in force at places in our own h^mpirc wdiere new t Avns are being created. They are designed to ],re\'ent land speculators ])uying up huge b/locks of land and artilicially rurining up prices. The Government own the land, and are prepared to sell it at a verv reasonable ])rice to hnnd-
9i CHINA AND THE PEESENT CRISIS
fide purchasers. In order to secure a reasonable share in the increase in value which may take place through works of public utility carried out at the cost of the State, the Government will claim one-third of the profit that may be made in any resale of land, excluding, however, any buildings that may be on the land. In order to safeguard themselves against fraud, they reserve the right to take over any piece of land when the purchaser comes to register it — at the price stipulated in the contract. Six per cent, is charged on the assessed value of the land as a land tax, and it is to be reassessed every 25 years. The regulations, it will be seen, are the practical embodi- ment, to some extent, of the just principle of the taxa- tion of ground values which many of us consider should be put in force at home.
Captain Jaeschke invited me to dine with him, but having only asked permission to detain the steamer four hours, I w^as unable to have that pleasure. The Civil Commissioner and Baron Liliencron came on board to see nic off, and tlic Governor also came out to the steamer to say ' Good-bye.' I had had a most satisfactory visit, and can heartily congratulate the Germans on the qualities of courage, energy, and enterprise which they are displaying in the great Empire of China. They show that they appreciate the enormous possibilities which China offers for the development of trade, and put to shame our Govern- ment, Vvlio are still pursuing a policy of drift and are failing to take adequate measures to maintain or advance l^ritish coinmcrci:!.] interests.
STTANGHAI 95
KIAO-CPIAU TO SII/VNGIIAI
We had a pleasant passa,f^e of about forty hours from Kiao-Chau to Shanghai. We entered the Whangpoo River at the Woosung Forts, about twelve miles from Shanghai. These forts were at that time dismantled. To go up the Yangtsze it is necessary to return to Woosung, and then take the channel northwards which leads into the Yangtsze. The channel southwards is taken when bound for Plong Kong. There are on both sides of the river abso- lutely flat fertile plains, on which two or even three crops a year are grown. The country is fairly wqU timbered, and the trees looked quite fresh and green.
SHANGHAI
On the right-hand side of the river are situated the settlements originally obtained by America and England which they agreed to convert into an international settleuKsnt. The area of this, with the additio]"! recently made, is about five miles by throe.
On the Bund facing the river the hongs and other buildings are almost palatial : avenues of trees add much to the attractive appearance of the city on its river front.
The French have tlieir extensive settlement beyond the international settlement. In this they claim absolute jurisdiction, though they enjoy an equal right to utilise the international settlement with other nations. They are seeking lo obtain a further concession. The report thnt thi'^ att-Mupt on
96 CHIXA AND THE PEESENT CRISIS
their part had been defeated by the joint action of America and England is not correct. They are still pressing their demand, though only seventeen Frenchmen live in their present settlement.
On the left bank of the river as we came up ve passed more than one shipbuilding yard with dry docks and repairing shops, also several petroleum godowns. On the right bank were cotton and other factories, also godowns and wharves.
As we drew near to Shanghai the river was full of shipping, which, together with the works, mills, and buildings lining both banks, conveyed to one some idea of the immense business carried on in the city which is known as the capital of the Far East.
I noticed in the river an Itrdian cruiser, an English and a Japanese gunboat, also a beautiful Chinese Customs revenue cruiser.
On arriving at the whart Mr. Morris, from Messrs. Jardine, Matheson, ^t Co., boarded the steamer and handed me an iiivitation to put up at their hong. In the course of the day I called upon Mr. Archibald Little, who had arrived the day befc're, in order to discuss ■\^"ith him the necessary arrangements in connection with our projected expe- dition 1,G00 miles up the Yaugtsze Eiver to Chung King. I then went to the British Consulate and saw Mr. E. S. Bourne, the acting Consul here, who promised me all the assistance in his power to facilitate my journey. In the evening Mr. Inglis (li'ove me I'ound thf" best residentifil pnrts of
INLAN]) \VAT1:PAVAYS 97
Shanf^hai andiout to the Country Clul), a fiiio build- ing ^vith extensive gi'oimds attacluHl, in which tliere are fifteen lawn tennis courts. The Cliih grounds are well timbered and kept in excellent order. The membership of tlie Club includes ladies as well as men, and it is a pleasant centre of Shanghai social life.
The large numl)cr of handsome residences which we saw gave evid( nee of tlu^ great eojunu'rcial pro- sperity of Shangluii, and \\'Ould ])e ;in eye-opener to thos(! at home who have ])ut a faint idea of the im- portance of the Far East.
];aexsli:y bobbins
Practically all the Chinese cotton mills use Jxirnsley bol^bins, over 1'2,()U0 gross having l)een ordered this year.
0\\'ing to failuj'o of the cotton ero]i last year ilu' cotton mills ]].[\c been I'lin.ning' lialt-tinu^ "I'l.V, or the ord( rs would have bieii hirger. Tlie Euro- pean mills buy their bobbins in London, and they possibly have some portion of tluiir refpuircmeiits supplied from Barnsley.
TIIJ-: IXLAXI) WATERWAYS 01' CIIIXA
(Jn Alonday, Septendjer 1^, I left ^ith three Shanghai gentlemen in two Juircix an houscdjoats, toueil l)y a sieLOu laanL'li, on an cxpL-ihiiwn through tlie inland \\ j.u rvv'ay- -,uutli <-[ Sbungliai. \\"e started in :i downpour <jf rain wbieli never ceased for thirtv-^ix hours, bu< \v<^ were i|uite watertight and
11
98 CHINA AND THE PEESENT ClUSIS
luxuriously comfortable in our floating houses — with cooks and servants on board as on shore.
The first part of our route lay up the Whang-poo Kiver, and then along the Grand Canal for some distance. The Grand Canal is one of the most wonderful works in China. It runs 650 miles from Pekin to Hang Chow, and was constructed between the seventh and tenth centuries. It is a tribute to the possession of courage, enterprise, and perseverance by the Chinese of those days. It has been of incal- cukible value in enabling the trade of the richest por- tion of China to be carried on by the cheapest mode of transit next to railways.
CHINESE BRIDGES
The Grand Canal and the other creeks up which we steamed were crossed by a succession of handsome stone bridges — solid, well-built structures, doing cretiit to both workmen and engineers. The heavy rains had made the water rise considerably in the creeks, and it soon became doubtful whether our craft cuidd pass under the bridges. Over and over again wc just scraped through, even after taking down the deck houses. It was quite exciting work, and we all had a turn at it. AVe reaped our reward wJieii dinner time came and good digestion waited on app(3tite. At last we were face to face with a lu'idgc through which the launch would not pass, so leaving her behind our men propelled the house- boats by means of huge oars, called yulohs, five or six lucii working each of them. AVe were passing
CHINESE CROWDS 99
through a densely populated part of China. The people swarmed out to see the ' foreign devils ' at every village and town : some stood gazing with mouths wide open, or, pointing to us, made remarks not always of the most complimentary character ; but the majority w^re always ready to acknowledge a friendly smile by smiling back. As a rule the crowds were orderly and treated us with quite as much, if not with more courtesy and civility than would often l)o shown to Chinamen in England. From a Chinaman's standpoint, we are both in dress and appearance the most amusing and ridiculous- looking specimens of humanity. The whole of the 150 miles down to Ilai-ning there were rich alluvial plains, growing two and even tliree crops a year. A large area is covered with mulberry trees which provide food for the sillvworms. Cotton and all kinds of cereals, beans, sweet potatoes, and many other crops are largely growii. The luxuriant growth greatly added to the scenery, which in many of the creeks, where trees, huge palm-like reeds, ferns, and ilowering shrubs overhung the water on each side, was very beautiful. A weed resembling maidenhair fern covered the surface of the water in many places, and where this was covered with the purple liowers shed from the shrubs aljove the; eli'ect was most charming. I should have liked to be able to transport a few square leet tiutouched as a dinner- table decoration. AA'e saw serpents swimming across the streams, and in many places crowds of buiialoes were cooling themselves itp to the neck in the water.
100 CHINA AND THE PEESENT CEISIS
CORMORANT FISHING
It was very novel and amusing to see flocks of trained cormorants being used for fishing. These birds are Hke large ducks, except their bills, which are so constructed as to enable them to snatch fish out of the water with the greatest rapidity and ease. A string is tied to the foot of each bird and held by the man in the boat. He thus directs the operations of perhaps twenty birds at once. They enter the water and dive for fish, and when the man in charge sees a bird has secured one he draws it into the boat and takes it out of its bill. A ring or cord is tempo- rarily put round the neck of the cormorant to prevent him swallowing the fish.. At intervals the birds are taken on board to rest, and they are encouraged in their work by receiving ample meals of fish.
BIRDS, GAME, AND INSECTS.
We did not see a great variety of birds, but the lovely kingfisher abounded. There is excellent shooting in some districts, pheasant, snipe, wild geese, ducks, swans, woodcock, and teal, also deer and hares. It is a curious fact that there are no rabbits in China. Insect hfe is far too prolific for one's comfort. The mosquitoes came in swarms and did vastly more bloodletting for me than I desired. Lovely fireflies fighted up bush and bank on every side, whilst the tremendous noise made by multitudes of frogs, grasshoppers, and other insects all through the night was perfectly wonderful.
A BOAT POPULATION 101
CHINESE RIVER LIFE
We had an insight into Chinese river life. Milhons of f amihes have no house on shore, but hve the year round, and indeed all their lives, in their boats. On our short trip we saw thousands of these floating homes — if homes they can by any stretch of the imagination be called. The Chinese occupants, however, look well nourished, are well dressed in their own style, and seem a merry, happy, and con- tented people. No doubt their life on the water is much healthier than it would be in insanitary dwellings on shore.
Amongst other boats are those known as despatch boats. They draw only two or three inches of water, and are propelled at great speed by a man seated in the stern, who works one oar with his feet most cleverly, and at the same time sculls with his arms and manages to keep a sun umbrella aloft over his head.
Wc met also trains of Chinese houseboats, eight or ten in a line, drawn by powerful steam launches at a high speed. They have a regular service between Shanghai and Hang Chow, which affords a comfort- able and cheap mode of transit.
In the towns through which we passed many picturesque wooden houses were built on solid stone foundations rising out of the water, and were pro- vided with steps at which to land, very much the same as at Venice. Kashing, Ilai-ning, and other places are enclosed by huge walls with turreted
102 CHINA AND THE PRESENT CRISIS
l)attlements, and the inhabitants seemed ahnost to Ix^ong to another world.
GREAT SEA WALL
Our destination was Hai-ning, a city on the Tsien-tang Eiver, about fifteen miles from the sea. From Hang Chow, past Hai-ning, to AVoosung, a distance of 140 miles, there stretches a huge wall about thirty feet high, built of rocks three to four feet long, clamped together with iron to keep out the sea, the country inland being on a lower level.
We had come to see what is known as the ' Bore ' at full moon when the tide is the highest. The estuary of the river is of funnel shape, and as the swollen river rushes down its comparatively narrow channel on the ebb tide it dams back and prevents for a time the inflow of the rising tide. This is banked up, as it were, until the pent-up wall of solid water outside becomes irresistible, and surges right over the top of the river at the rate of fifteen or six- teen miles an hour. It is a mass of water two miles across and from G feet to 19 feet high. The roar of it can be heard miles away. It is a grand and im- pressive spectacle.
AN EX-MISSIOXAEY AT THE WHEEL
An ex-missionary volunteered to tow us with his steam launch back to where we had left ours. We sped along merrily for a time with the missionary at the wheel, Imt we noticed he took the brid'-es in
SILK WOEKS 103
fi reckless fashion. Very soon he clashed throuf^h one, bumping our houseboat against the solid stone buttress so violently that the contents of our dinner table were strewn over the cabin and a good deal of glass and crockery was smashed to atoms. Our houseboat was also considerably damaged. We resumed the slower but safer yuloh. We reached our launch before dark, and all night we glided by lovely moonlight along the most charming waterways. Early morning found us rolling and tossing on the great AVhang-poo Eivcr, a strong wind against the tide causing quite a sea.
YAXGTSZE EXPEDITION
The next day I was hard at work laying in stores and other requisites for my 1,600 miles expedition up the great Yangtsze Eiver. I had to buy bedding and furniture, cutlery, glass, crockery, cooking stove, pots, and pans, in addition to food ; so it was quite an undertaking.
SILK FILATURE WORKS
I managed to make the time for a visit to the filature' works of Jardine, Matheson, i^c Co. They buy silk cocoons up country in Alay. These are heated in ovens to kill the worm inside, and then brought down to Sj-ianghai. The cocoons are then sorted according to quality, and after being soaked in boiling water the silk is unwound by machinery
104 CHINA AND THE PRESENT CRISIS
from five cocoons at once — the five almost invisible threads being woven into one thread in the process. Girls overlook this in the most skilful manner — re- placing one cocoon l)y another as finished, and tying the end of the thread to the beginning of the thread unwound from the fresh cocoon in a very rapid and clever way. Nothing is wasttsd — the inferior parts of the cocoon arc used to make common qualities of silk. The worms are eaten by the Chinese or sold as manure. The hanks of wound silk are beautifully soft, and are handled and packed with the greatest neatness and care. The Chinese very carefully preserve a sufficient supply of silk- worms. The w^orm, if left alone, bursts the cocoon and escapes as a butterfly. They lay 2,000 to 3,000 eggs, and on the successful hatching of these depends the future supply of sillvworms. These are often hatched by the Chinese on their own persons and in their beds Avith great ingenuity, and are reared with the utmost care. As the wee worms appear they are so fragile that they cannot be touched by hand, but are gently lifted by a mulberry leaf on to trays and fed two or three times a day with mulberry leaves cut as small as possible.
I left Shanghai on September 28, at 5 a.m., in s.s, ' Kutwo ' for Nankin, this being the first stage of my intended expedition up the Yangtsze Valley to the most western province of China, Szechuan. Unfortunately, Mr. Archibald Little, who knows tliis region better than any other living man, was
MR. LITTLE 105
unavoidably detained at Shanghai. I could not delay starting — as that would endanger my being at home for the opening of Parliament — so I decided to go alone. Mr. Little most kindly placed his steam launch at my disposal above Ichang.
106 CHINA AND THE PKESENT CKISIS
CPIAPTER VII
LOWEl^ BEACHES OF THE YANGTSZE
S.S. 'Kiitu-o; September 24, 1899.— This steamer is one of the magnificent river boats of American type of which there is a daily sailing from Shanghai to Hankow, a distance of 600 miles up the Yangtsze Eiver. She carries 2,000 tons of cargo— largely Manchester piece goods for the interior of China — and was not only full, but had to shut out cargo ottered. The trade has increased so rapidly that additional steamers are urgc]itly needed and are now in course of construction, not only by the English and Chinese, but also by the Japanese and Germans.
In three hours we were in the lower reaches of the great river — a perfect sea of muddy water. A thin line of browai, a shade deeper than that of the water, barely visible to starboard, indicated the left bank, whilst in the opposite direction the muddy waste extended to the horizon. Soon tlie river was lined by flat, fertile, well-wooded plains, and was contracted to a width varying in the course of the day from 1^, to 2^ miles. A multitude of jnnks and boats with their picturesque sails and interesting
CHINKIANG 107
Chinese occupants greatly relieved the monotony of the scenery, and as we glided on, basking in glorions sunshine, far away from the rush and crush of modern civilised life, one felt at peace with all the world.
Ninety-six miles from Shanghai we passed Kiaiigyiii, where forts, with heavy guns, have been constructed on the low-lying hill^ on the left bank of the river.
This plain commands the river, and we ought to have taken it by arrangement with the Chinese, who would have welcomed our intervention, in place of Wei-hai-AVei.
CHIXKIAXCt
This morning at 3 a.m. we reached Chinkiang, a city with 140,000 inhabitants. It is surrounded by well-wooded country and has a fine range of hills a little ^^'ay inland, also lower hills on the edge of the ri^■er. Golden Island looked picturesque, rising up from the water from two to three hundred feet sunnoimted by a pagoda. Silver Island in the river just below Chinkiang is prettily wooded.
Chinkiang is a distributing centre for the pro- vinces of Kiang-si, Kiang-suh, Anhtii, Shantung, and Ilonan. Its trade now amounts to about 8^ millions sterling a year. The entrance to the Grand Canal is close b}", and this, coupled with numerofis oth(_i' \\"ater\vays and the railway \\Ihch is to be jcnntly ccnistructed l)y the (icrmans and English from Tientsin to Chinkiang, gives promise of still
108 CHINA AND THE PRESENT CRISIS
greater prosperity in the future. There are a number of European houses, and the Chinese city has existed for 2,000 years. The insistence on the carrying out in its entirety of the agreement in regard to the opening to trade of the inland water- ways of China, and the securing of the right for traders, as well as missionaries, to acquire property and reside in the interior, would cause trade to advance, to the mutual advantage of the Chinese and of the various nations trading with them.
BRITISH FLEET IN 1842
If I could have gone back in my vision to 1842, 1 should have seen a British fleet anchored off Chin- kiang, and great would have been the contrast between those line-of-bafctle ships and those I saw flying the Union Jack at Wei-hai-Wei.
"We left Chinkiang at 6 a.m., and at 8 passed Iching, a salt emporium from which a large dis- trict is supplied by junks under Government control. Salt is contraband, being a Government monopoly, and no other vessels are allowed to carry it.
Eight up to Nankin, 200 miles from Shanghai, the river was never less than a mile wide. In many places reeds grow on the marshy banks 12 to 16 feet high. These are all cut in December and used as fuel and for the construction of roofs and fences in place of bamboos. Paper is also manufactured from the leaves. We passed districts where the rice crop had been cut and the stooks fixed several feet above the ground on triangles of bamboo to
NANKIN 109
save it from destruction by floods overflowing the river banks, but involving great trouble and labour upon the plodding, patient, industrious Chinese agriculturists. We now began to see cattle here and there — in many parts of China they are un- known.
For some distance below Nankin rich plains stretched to low hills on the left, and on the right bank a bare and higher range running up to 1,000 feet formed the background.
Fifteen miles from Nankin a straight canal reduces the distance by one-half, but only junks are allowed to use it, although there is ample room.
NANKIN
Arrived at Nankin 12.30. Mr. Aglen, Commis- sioner of Customs, came off to welcome me. The Viceroy, Liu-Kun-Yi, who rules Kiangsi, Anhui, and Kiangsuh Provinces, had been asked l)y mistake to receive me to-morrow instead of to-day, and had put oil' a review of the Military School on this account. When it was represented to him that I nmst leave early the next morning he gave me an appoinujient at 5 p.m., though he is old and feeble and had had a heavy day. I had my cards prepared in Chinese eight inches long by three wide — the size ofymu-'card is regulated l\v your public or ofticial posilicn 1111(1 it wotild not do to belittle yoiu'self by handiii,:;' in a small liinglisl] card. Mr. Aglen accompanied me to intcrpn.'t. AVe first went to the Foreign Office, where the Taotai i^the official next
110 CIIIXA AND THE TEESENT CEISIS
in importance to the Viceroy) was waiting to receive me and to conduct me to the Viceroy's yamen. We were carried in green chairs which are only used by high oiticials.
INTERVIEW WITH YICEEOY LIU-KUN-YI
I was received with ceremony, the pathv/ay
through the courtyards leading to the Eeception
Hall being lined by soldiers and attendants. Liu-
Kun-Yi was standing at the doorway of the last
court, and greeted me with Cliinese ceremonial
politeness. He conducted me into the yamen and
placed me on his left at a round table (contrary to
the Englibh idea, the seat to the left of the host,
instead of that to the right, is the place of honour).
"We were served with tea, champagne, fruits, sweets,
biscuits, and cigarettes. The Viceroy is one of the
most powerful men in China : he holds enlightened
views, and is patriotic and lionest. His age and
state of health prevent his actively promoting the
adoption of a otrong and drr.stic policy of r<'form.
I found him in a state of despair and anxious
only to be alloAwd to retire from office. He thinks
any reform movement to be effectual must begin
at I'ekin. A strong, able, and enlightened ruler
could alone lay the f'jundatinn ol tlio regeneration
of Ciiina. He C' aisiders the currujit officialdom
ou.^ht to 1.10 'Ijalt uith, but he fears n is almost an
inipossible task. He is \'(.ry friendly to England,
])Ut cannot under.Ttand why the British Government
should have allowed lius^ia to ride rottghshod over
LIU-KrN-YI 111
China, and dcoply regrets that our influence and prestige have been destro3-ed. He would welcome concerted assistance from those nations who do not desire the partition of China in the reorganisa- tion of her military forces, but fears the difticulties in the way of this are insurmountable. He patheti- cally exclaimed Russia would be sure to object, and China must obey unless the friendly Powers are prepared to assert themselves very diil'erently from \\liat ihi'V have hitherto done in the present crisis. Anntlicr hindrance is the Lick of money. Liu-Kun- Yi spoke with great cordiality of his appreciation of tlui advice Lord Charles P)eresford gave him last year as to reorganisation of military and naval forces, and also of his warm friendship for him. He has l^een a Viceroy over twenty years, and is of the highest rank. Viceroys have enormous power in China, the army and navy being created and ad- ministered by them in their diil'erent Provinces. They collect and expend all taxation, except a cerLai)! jiroportiem S(;nt to Pekin. Liu-Kun-Yi rules practically as a king over 6C) millions of people. He can, hov.-ever, l)e disnnssod and disgraced at a niomeni's notice aL the sweet \\ill and pleasure of the Emperor or Empress. After an audience of tliree-rjua.rtf^'rs of an hour f took my leave, greatly regretting tliat this aPle and pati'iotic Chinaman wa-, not thirty years yo'inger.
I drove mund the city of Xankin, which covers a considerable area. The city walls are very massive. Tlie height varies from oO to bi) feet, and they are so
112 CHINA AND THE PRESENT CEISIS
wide as to allow free gallops on horseback on the top. Nankin was the capital of China before it was re- moved to Pekin.
The Taiping Kebellion, which began in 1850 and was put down by our ' Chinese Gordon,' was the work of a sect calling themselves ' God Wor- shippers,' Christianity being their profession, but mixed with a great deal of error. They started as the Regenerators of the Empire, and there is reason to think they were sincere. My sympathies would have been with them. They took possession of Nankin in 1853, and made it their headquarters. Afterwards they withstood a siege by the Imperialists lasting some years.
In 1861 the British Naval Squadron assembled at Nankin preparatory to an expedition of investiga- tion further up the river.
XAXKIN PAGODA
AVe ascended the pagoda on a hill in the city, and had a glorious view of the city and the surroimding country. The greater part of what is enclosed within the walls is not built upon, but is an undu- lating, well-wooded tract, with rich garden land. The city is practically encircled by hills, and it appears to be a rich, prosperous, and attractive place. There is a Tartar city, inside the other, which is mostly in ruins.
MING TOMBS
The Ming Tombs, under the Golden Pearl Moun- tciin, wlicre repose tlie remains of Ilis Majesty Choo,
NANKIN BUILDINGS 113
the first monarch of the Ming dynasty, I had not time to visit ; I succeeded, however, in procuring a photograph.
The broad Yangtsze Eiver is two miles away from the nearest point of the city walls, and it is five miles from the landing-place to the Viceroy's Yamen. We drove this distance over the best macadamised road I have seen in China, which was built by the last Viceroy, Chang Chih Tung. There are military and naval colleges at Nankin, under Germans and English respectively, but they do not amount to much, I fear, as regards leavening the military and naval systems of the country. Nankin boasts also of a mint, a gunpowder factory, and an arsenal, but at the last practically only antiquated jingalls are made.
Mr. Aglen's home is on an old vessel moored in the river, where he has fixed up quite comfortable quarters.
At 5.30 next morning I was on board the steam- ship ' Tatung,' bound for Hankow. The weather was perfect and the scenery pleasant. We passed several bluffs on the edge of the river — two of them known as East and West Pillar — and also a steep and well- wooded island. Above and below Wuhu (50 miles up from Nankin) are rich plains on both banks, on which enormous crops of rice are produced. This is shipped from Wuhu. No less than six steamers were lying there waiting to load rice, in addition to the regular boats. The Eoman Catholic Church and other mission premises are the most prominent features at AVuhu. The population is 80,000, and
I
114 CHINA AND THE PRESENT CKISIS
trade 1,200,000/. annually. Its proximity to water- ways is certain to give it a growing trade as these become properly opened. All the afternoon we passed mountains to the south, and rich fairly timbered plains everywhere.
SPOET IX THE YAXGTSZE VALLEY
There is said to be excellent shooting in many places, notably in the AVuhu district. Pheasant, duck, teal, snipe, geese, swans, and woodcock are got, also deer and hares. Amongst bags made have been 1,800 pheasants in tweniy-three days, with six guns, and one man bagged 70 in one day. Tliey are wild, and not half-tame, as in England, and are neither preserved nor reared. With regard to snipe, one gun got 102 one day and 114 another. A man also bagged 422 head of wildfowl in ton days. As in other countries, the tendency is for game to diminish. The pheasant would soon have been extinct, as they wore Ijieing killed off wholesale, but this has been put a stop to by Imperial edict,
IvL-YXGrSI
Tuesday, September 2G, found us in the pro- vince of Kiangsi. There were rich plains, populous villages, with stone houses on the south, backed by a fine range of hills. On the north stretched flat plains with lo^^• and very distant hills and numerous handcts and farms. AYe passed the Orphan Eock, a pyramid in the rivor -.jOO foot high, with joss liouse and pagoda.- -nestlimf on a w<'ll-wooded sunnnit. At
KIU KLVNG 115
9.30 we had on our left the entrance to the enormous Poyang Lake, about which so httle is yet known. There is a small town and picturesque old fort on the bluff to the left, and a modern fort on a sandhill to the right of the inlet.
KIU KIANG
We reached Kin Kiang, 444 miles from Shanghai, abniii 1 v.^i. It is an attr;ictive place of over 50,000 iiilial)itants. The Chinese city is surrounded by graiul okl walls with turreted battlements, and has a good deal of timber inside. Outside is a liaiidsonu! little European bund with avenues of trees facing the river. The splendid Catholic Mission premises, church and hospital, are a special feature. About 15 miles inland runs a grand broken range of mountains, 4,000 to 4,500 feet high. On one of these is a Missionary Sanatorium rejoicing in the name of Kuling.
TRADE OF KIU KIAXG
The trade of Kiu Kiang is very large, amounting to over two millions a year. The principal export is l^lack tea. If light-draught steamers and steam- launches for towing were put on the Poyang Lake and the tributary rivers, so as to allow goods to be freely conveyed by water to and from the province of Kiang-si, a rapid increase of trade would ensue. The 150 miles between Kiu Kiang and Hankow was of nuich the same character— rich plains, populous villages, a fair amotmt of wood, and here and
I 2
116 CHINA AND THE PRESENT CRISIS
there hills to add to the scenic beauty. As we approached Hankow the whole country became flat, but continued most fertile. Millet, wheat, sesame seed, indigo, and other crops had largely taken the place of rice, which distinguished the Wuhu district.
I arrived at Hankow on September 27, and had a warm welcome from Mr. Cradock, of Jardine, Matheson, & Co., with whom I stayed.
Here, though GOO miles inland, the majestic Yangtsze Eiver is over a mile wide, and some idea of the enormous quantity of water sweeping past may be got when I say that it is at present 41 ft. 7 in. above its lowest water-level. This is quite an unusual condition of affairs at the end of September, and the chance of being able to get through the Yangtsze gorges in the time at my disposal is not good. Not even a cargo junk has ventured to face the torrent above Ichang for nearly a month past. Contrary to our experience at home, rivers in China have a much greater volume of water in summer than in winter. This is due to the melting of snow and the time of their rainy seasons. There is practically no rainfall in winter. The Han Eiver enters the Yangtsze at Hankow, and separates it from the town of Han- Yang. These two places, together with Wuchang on the opposite side of the Yangtsze to Hankow, have a united population variously estimated at from one to two millions. In approaching Hankow we liad the imposing Bund on the right, with its palatial hongs, avenues of trees, and well-kept
FOREIGNEES AT HANKOW J 17
lawns. First come the Japanese, German, Frencli, and Ixussian concessions, recently acquired and only partially built up. The English concession has on it the main European settlement. The Kussians and others prefer to be under British jurisdiction rather than to be harassed by the cast-iron officialism of their own nation. The Frencli arbitrarily seized and confiscated the racecourse, which was vested in a cosmopolitan body, and no redress has been got. The Eussians demanded that the title-deeds of Britishers owning land or property, which had been improperly included in their concession by the Chinese Government, should be submitted for their approval, and the English Government tamely submitted, instead of denying their right to have jurisdiction over it. The Kussians rejected certain titles, including those of several pieces of land of which Messrs. Jardine, Matheson, & Co. had been in possession for thirty years, though ten years' occupation gives an etiective title according to Kussian law. The owners proceeded to fence it off, whereupon Eussian Cossacks tore up the fence and assaulted the British overlooker.
BEITISII BLUEJACKETS TO THE FRONT
This high-handed proceeding was more than even Her Majesty's Government could submit to, and bluejackets were landed from the 'Woodlark' to protect the w-orkmen whilst they completed the erection of the fence. At the sight of armed British sailors the Eussians wisely disappeared, and have
118 CHINA AND THE PRESENT CRISIS
not interfered since. This shows that the firm up- holding of our just rights, and not a pohcy of surrender, is the hest course to pursue. It is reported that the Enghsh and Eussian Governments have agreed to submit the matter to arbitration. This appears to be the only rational mode of settling the dispute, and any refusal to arbitrate would have shown the Hague Peace Conference to be without practical result. It will be interesting to see the final outcome of the affair.
RECEPTION BY CHANG CIIIH TUNG
Septemhcr 28. — The British Consul, Mr. Hurst, had arranged for Chang Chih Tung, the Viceroy of the Provinces of Hunan and Hupeh— with over fifty-two millions of population — to receive me at his Yamen in the city of Wuchang at 10 a.m. We crossed the river by steam-launch, and were carried from the landing-place to the Yamen in green chairs preceded by soldiers to clear the track. The Chinese who crowded the picturesque narrow streets opened their mouths, gazed, and smiled with amusement at the, to lliem, grotesque-looking men passing through their midst. On arrival we were promptly received by the Viceroy. He is an intel- ligent-looking man, with bright alert eyes, a grey beard, and finger nails more than an inch long. Many Chinese of high rank grow them even longer. He wore a conical hat made of reeds, lined with scarlet. It had also a long scarlet fringe suspended fi'om a scarlet button on the top of the hat. His
CITANG CTTIH TUNG 119
liowinf;- o-anncnt was of violet silk, lined with blue, and from liis neck were suspended numerous strings of lound buttons of various colours, denoting his rank and ofticial status. In China you keep your Iiat on during interviews. I had an interview last- ing nearly two hours. I determined to make the A''ieeroy talk about the present situation in Ciiina, and k'd oil' by announcing myself as an Englishman vviiose policy was China for the Chinese, as opposed to partitioTi, and added I had come all the way to China for the purpose of ascertaining from states- men like himself how, in their opinion, this object could be best attained. He seemed doubtful and suspicious for the first half-hour — after that he con- versed freely, and we had a cordial and friendly interclumge of views. Chang Chih Tung is re- garded ;is one of the most influential men in China, and. unlike the majority of Chinese ofticials, he is honest, patriotic, nnd progressive, and though he has ninx'r bi'cn outsido his own country he has a wonderful grasp of the laws, goverjiiuent, and institutions of l-hn'opean nations. He agreed that if Engkuitl, Amcric;i, and Japan gave China their joint inihicnce and assistance its independence could l)e preserved. He said small outstanding disputes could easily be settled. He admitted the I'ekin- Hankow Ihiilway Concession ^vas a mistalvc in some of its conditions, but said provision was made for paying off the money and freeing the line, He dollied tliat the concossionnaires had power to police the line by military guards, but did not contradict
120 CHINA AND THE PEESENT CEISIS
my statement that Kussia, France, and Germany, also the Pekin-Hankow Syndicate, had been given exclusive mining rights by the Chinese Government, which they were now refusing to the American- English Syndicate in connection with the Canton- Hankow line.
This is in contravention of the Treaty of Tientsin, under which we are to have equal privileges, im- munities, and advantages to those granted to other nations. He argued that the hostile attitude of the inhabitants of Hunan made this course necessary, but thought that a compromise might be come to in regard to the portion of the line nearer to Canton. I told him that if the Chinese Government allowed the Pekin-Hankow Syndicate to construct the line from Hankow to Canton also, it would enable Russia and France to create a railway system throughout China from north to south absolutely under their own control, the independence of China would be gone and its final absorption by those Powers only a question of time.
Chang Chih Tung recognised the force of my contention, and said the position was most critical, as France was strongly pressing that the reversion of the right to construct this line — which is provided for in the Pekin-Hankow contract in the event of the American concession lapsing — should now be con- sidered operative on account of the deadlock in the negotiations. He urged that America and England should moderate their demands ; whilst I pointed out that, unless China was prepared to commit
FRIENDLY EXPEESSIONS 121
suicide, they should be ready to make any reasonable concession to secure the Canton-Hankow line being made by Powers not desirous to bring about the break-up of China. The Viceroy asked if Jung-lu had been present at my audience with Prince Ching at I'ekin, adding that he is Prime Minister and Generalissimo of the Chinese Army, and all-power- ful in China at present, Prince Ching being really the leader of the Opposition.
Chang Chill Tung more than once said he had to do only with provincial, and not with imperial affairs ; that whilst he gave his opinions in a friendly way, he had no authority to interfere in the matter of railway concessions or other imperial matters. I replied that I felt sure those in authority would attach great weight to any representations His Excellency made.
He promised a red boat — i.e. a guard boat — from Ichang up the Yangtsze as far as his province ex- tended, and to telegraph a request that the Governor of Szechuan would give similar assistance in that province. He also agreed to arrange for my being taken round the arsenal, the Han Yang works, and ihe ^Military College.
The interpreter through whom our conversation was carried on was first-class. The Taotai and two otht,!' officials were present, and a crowd of retainers, as usual, stood around the room and doorway. After a cordial leave-taking we returned to Hankow.
122 CiTTNA AND THE PRESENT CEISIS
HAN YANG IRONWOEKS
In the afternoon Consul Hurst and I went by steam- launch to these works, which are the only ironworks in China. They consist of two blast furnaces 65 feet high, and rolling mills producing rails, angles, bars, and plates. The plant was supplied and erected by the Tecs Side Ironworks Company, Yorkshire. Aji enormous amount of money has been expended over them — three-quarters of a million, it is said ; but they are not successful, owing to the lack of proper manageinent and the corruption of those in power, who are feathering their oami nests at the expense of the concern. Bad material has also to be contended with.
The blo\\-ing engines are only equal to working one furnace, which produces 80 tons a day, and the works turn out 120 to 150 tons of rails or other finished steel per day, but are not worked regularly. About one thousand hands are employed. I was lakcn around by Mr. Williamson, a Scotchman from Glasgow. The carrying oi coke from the junk to the furnaces in baskets was an example of some of the primitive methods employed. The coke and coal come from Pingshan mines, 280 miles away, and cost oOv. and l^.'^'. per ton respectively, delivered. The iron ore is from the "Wong Chi Tong mines, 76 miles oft, and costs 6.s. 'id. per ton. It contains 65 per cent, of iron, but the phosphorus and other impurities render it unfit for making steel. The coke has 20 per cent, of ash and too much phosphorus and
IIAN YANG ARSENAL 123
sulpliur. They also bring niaiiganiferous oi'e all the way from Szcchuan as a mixture : this unfortunately contains a high percentage of phosphorus, silica, and sulphur. The rails will not stand proper tests, and cost 7/. a ton. The pig iron varies in cost from ;')/. to o/. lO.';. per ton. So much for so-called cheap labour. Having regard to the quality and cost, it would pay tlieni much better to buy what they need in England.
IIAX YAXG Ar.SENAL
I next visited the Arsenal, which has a first-rate modern plant, made in Germany. There is a rifle factory, and also one for small field-guns — both under the management of Germans. The weapons are excellently finished, but are practically useless, because they are made of the steel produced at the Han Yang works, which is quite unsuitable for the purpose.
I was surprised to meet a man called Adams, from SheiVield, a native; of Eotherham. He came out to erect and manage crucible steel works, ])ut lias heen llierc eigliteen months, and little has been done, as lu; cannot get what he requires. He does not think t]ir\- will give him a proper quality of steel, which mu>t be imported from Europe, and he desp;iirs ol doing any good.
The Japanc>,e buy steel for their rifle barrels and all the oLlicr fittings in England and France, and do not attempt to make it themselves.
There is also a modern rifle-cartridge factory al Han Yang. They use German powder at
124 CHINA AND THE PEESENT CEISIS
present, but contemplate making their own smoke- less powder. There are huge stacks of patent Coppee coke ovens, which have been built for years, but never used. Machinery and plant imported from Europe, both for works and Arsenal, are lying about in all directions, never having been set up. One is sorry to see such shameful waste ; but at any rate it seems clear that we have not much to fear from China's competition in the iron, steel, and engineering trades.
MILITARY COLLEGE
The following day we crossed again to Wuchang, and proceeded to the Military College, over which we were taken by Lieutenant Hoffman, a German officer, who is Chang ChihTung'smost trusted adviser in military matters. Two other German officers conduct the Military College, whilst five or six Japanese officers are busily engaged in translating Japanese books of military instruction into Chinese.
They have 70 cadets, sixteen to twenty years of age, and 10 of these are going to Japan for one year's training. The first class-youths were put through their drill, and were smart and soldierlike. They have excellent living and sleeping quarters, large dining- hall, and good class-rooms, also a fine gymnasium.
We also visited the barracks of the sappers and miners and of the artillery. The men paraded and did their marching and musket drill very efficiently. I am told these are the Viceroy's show places, and that they do not fairly represent the average condition of
BRICK-TEA FACTORY 125
his forces. He has 27,000 men, and out of these only ahout 3,000 are disciphned or properly trained. They arc armed with antiquated weapons or with the unreliahle productions of the Han Yang Arsenal. On the other hand. Lieutenant Hoffman spoke in the highest terms of his men, both as regards conduct and efficiency. Pic declared he would not hesitate to lead them anywhere.
BRICK-TEA FACTORY
I was shown over a brick-tea factory by the Scotch engineer. The machinery, including engines and boilers, had come from England or Scotland. The electric plant was supplied by Germany, simply because the Germans came up from Shanghai to see after the order, whilst the English firm only wrote a letter.
Brick tea is made of tea dust and inferior tea ground to a fine powder. It is then steamed for two minutes over steaming pans covered by grid- irons, nmslin being placed on the top to receive the tea. The tea is next poured into a wooden mould and compressed by a machine with 30 tons pressure on the brick. A finer tablet tea is dried for an hour over charcoal instead of being steamed, then weighed in quarter pounds, poured into a steel-lined box, and compressed by hyilraulic power, 40 tons pressure. Each cake or tablet is neatly packed in paper, and then put into a bamboo basket, ready for transporta- tion on camel or mule back to the heart of Russia.
126 CTTINA AND THE PRESENT CRISIS
It is to lessen difficulties of transport that the tea is thus prepared.
china:man dying ox eoadway uxcared for
Human life seems of little value to the Chinese, even though they worship their ancestors. At the brick-tea factory they feed and house their workmen. Near the entrance to their dwelling block I observed a poor creature lying in a dying state on the stones with only a bamboo mat to half cover him. The roadway was crowded, but not a soul gave him the slightest attention. I was told he would 'peg out ' before the next morning. I protested against this want of common humanity, only to receive the reply that if I had been in China twenty years I should have got accustomed to such sights. I went direct to a missionary, who has a hospital within a stone's throw of where I saw this sad sight, but he was away from home and the hospital closed.
Mr. Archibald Little not being able to go to Chung-King, I offered to take as a guest a man from the gunboat 'Pigmy,' ' Woodlark,' or ' Woodcock,' or some one from the British Consular body, so that he might take observations and obtain information calculated to advance British trade and interests. Tlie naval men had to decline because they were obliged to communicate with the admiral, and did not know where he was, and the Consular people because Her Majesty's representative at Pekin refused consent.
I inspected the river gunboat 'Woodlark.' She
UrVER GUNBOATS 127
had actually been sent out without any slecpino- acconnnodation for the men. The Government profess they are ^'oin^' to patrol the Yano-tsze for 1,000 miles, but the ' Esk,' 'Pigmy,' ' Woodlark,' and ' Woodcock ' now on the river are quite in- adequate. The ' Pigmy ' has old breech-loading instead of quick-firing guns, and to keep her spick and span as r(\gards paint tlie commander has to do it at his own expense. A stock of Cardilf coal is kept at Shanghai, Hankow, and Ichang for our sliips.
I\TJ:iiVIEW WITH THE TAOTAI OF HANKOW
On ]\Iondiiy, October "2, the Taotai of Hankow called upon me by appointment, in order to ask for further information on behalf of the Viceroy in regard to two or three matters which I had dis- cussed with him at our interview. He was accom- panied by one of the Viceroy's interpreters.
He had been instructed by the Viceroy to say that he had considered my suggestions in reference to the reorganisation of the military forces of China, and he would be glad to seek the sanction of the nutliorities at Pekin to send twenty students to I'higl.inil for miliiar} training and tliirty non-com- missioned oflicers to be attached to the Indian Arm}', half from Hankow and half from Pekin. I replied that I would bring the matter before the authorities at borne, and endeavour to asce^rtain whether this would l)e agreeable to them ; bru I suggested that the (uiestion of obtaining Prilisli ofticers to drill tlie
128 CHINA AND THE PRESENT CRISIS
Chinese soldiers should at the same time be also con- sidered. I advised that negotiations be opened on similar lines with Japan and America, and any other comitries who desire that the independence and integrity of China should be preserved, with a view to their co-operating in this work. I pointed out that concerted action and assistance uniting the influence of several Powers on behalf of China could alone give any hope of success and prevent the scheme being defeated by Eussia and France.
TRADE OF HANKOW
The trade of Hankow is enormous and rapidly increasing. In 1897 the total value was over 7,000,000/. ; in 1898 it rose 14 per cent., and this year 1899 is going to be a record year. As a merchant said to me, ' Trade in Hankow is booming.' Tea is the principal export, and in May, June, and July last 34 million pounds of tea were sold. A few years ago Eussia bought all her tea in London ; now she imports direct from Hankow, and refuses to ship an ounce under a foreign flag. The tea is carried exclusively by the Eussian Volunteer Fleet. This is an object-lesson of how British trade will be extinguished in China, so far as Eussia can do it. British imports are cotton and woollen goods and metals.
MISSIONARY WORK
I called on the Eev. Griftith John, of the London jNIissionary Society, who told me they had baptised
HANKOW TO ICHANG 129
800 converts in the Hankow district last year. He stated the Dowager-Einprcss had offered missionaries a certain status and the right of audience with Chinese of'ticials. The lioman Cathohcs have accepted these, but the Protestants are hesitating.
1 made calls on the German, United States, and Japanese Consuls, and found every disposition to co- operate with England in these parts for the pro- motion of trade.
FrxOM HANKOW TO ICIIAXG
I went on board the Japanese steamer ' Tayuen ' on Monday afternoon, October 2. This boat was to take me a further 400 miles up the Yangtszetolchang, where my experience of travelling in a Chinese junk would begin.
No difticulties are met with in going from Hankow to Ichang. "We arrived in three days.
With regard to the character of the country. Up to Kin-ho-kan, 115 miles from Hankow, at the entrance to the Tung-Ting Lake, there are rich flat alluvial plains on Ijoth sides of the river, from whicli excellent crops of millet, indigo, sesame, e^c, were being gathered. An occasional hill somewliat relieved the monotony of the landscape. There were many hamlets and frequent large vil!;!g(>s all the way. Tlu; l)ed of the river averaged about three-quarters of a mile wide, and in many places large tracts of tlie adjacent plains were also sub- merged.
The Tung-Ting Lake covers a considerable area
K
130 CHINA AND THE PEESENT CRISIS
and has 6 to 12 feet of water in summer, but is dry in winter, except certain river channels. The Seang- yin Eiver runs into it. About 8 miles away we could see the Pagoda of Yo-Chau-Fu, which has recently been opened as a Treaty Port. The anchorage is bad owing to a hard bottom. It is in the Province of Hunan, which is said to be the most anti-foreign in China. The scenery here became bolder, as we had the Ivuin range of mountains, about 2,000 feet high, ten to fifteen miles inland.
SIIA-SZE
The first considerable town we stopped at was Sha-sze, which was opened as a Treaty Port under the Treaty of Shimonoseki at the close of the Chino-Japanese war. Sha-sze is an unv/alled town with a noble stone embankment in three tiers, each 12 feet high, facing the river, which has a bund or promenade on the top. This was built ages ago, in the time of China's greatness, and is now being allowed to decay. There were hundreds of junks moored here, and a large trade is carried on between this port and Szcchuan. Manchester goods, American watches and clocks, and kerosene oil are amongst the goods brought hither by the Pin-ho Canal from Hankow, and transhipped into the Szcchuan junks. The down cargoes from Szechuan include salt, sugar, opium, tobacco, henip, pepper, spices, medicinal and other drugs, some silk and wax, and a little gold.
Sha-sze is 300 miles up from Hankow. Two
TIGEE TEETH GORGE 131
miles inland is the interesting Chinese walled city of Kin-Chow, which has a garrison of 10,000 Manchii soldiers. In May last a riot took place in Sha-sze, when nearly the whole of the foreign settle- ment was burnt to the ground. The Europeans escaped in boats. About 50 miles from Ichang the enormous rich but monotonous plains of Hupeh ended, and we had the Western Mountains in view. Soon the river contracted considerably, not being more than ()00 yards wide when we reached the Tiger Teeth Gorge (Hu-ya-Tsia), about ten miles below Ichang. Mr. Archibald Little says : ' This gorge forms a break in the last of the cross-ranges, athwart u'hich the Yangtsze brealis its way from the Szechuan plateau to the great Ilupeli plain.' Some of the cliffs and peaks rise to an altitude of nearly 3,000 feet, and the scenery is grandly rugged and impressive. I rested three days at Ichang, preparatory to starting up-river in a Chinese house- boat. Mr. Wilton, our excellent Consul, made me heartily welcome.
SEA OF Gil AYES
The Consulate, from its windows to the north, east, and west, looks out on a sea of graves in the f(jrm of mounds of oartii. They literally stretch for mik'S and miles. It is a curious sensation to feel oneself thus encircled by countless numbers of tb.e dead. This is true to a large extent of many Chinese cities, and prevents their extension, as the
k2
132 CHINA AND THE PRESENT CRISIS
Chinese will rarely allow even their oldest burial- grounds to be built upon.
Ichang is a prosperous trading town of sonic 40,000 inhabitants. It is not a model place, as the cheap opium and wine tempt the thousands who navigate the river to and from the town.
The geological formation of this rugged region is a coarse conglomerate, with sandstone sometimes associated. On the summit of a conglomerate pinnacle close by, 1,200 feet high, a Buddhist temple is picturesquely situated. Pyramid-shaped hills and vertical cliffs, 500 to 600 feet high, stretch along the south bank of the river, backed by lofty mountains. The Prefect Chun and Brigadier-General Fu called on me, and informed me that the Viceroy had telegraphed that a Chinese gunboat was to escort me up the Yangtsze from this point. I, however, declined this honour, but accepted what is known as a red l)oat, or lifeboat, manned by picked China- men, who wear a uniform with scarlet cloth front and back, on which are Chinese characters in black. I thought this would be a better safeguard in case our Chinese houseboat was wrecked, and also be more handy and useful generally. I found the new river gunboat, ' Woodcock,' had been lying here since February last, and now her going up the Yangtsze has been unaccountably countermanded, no one knows why. This is a serious breach of the distinct pledge given by the Government to patrol the Yangtsze.
In r(^ti)riiing the Brigadier-General's call I was
A HOUSEBOAT 133
placed in a flif'ticulty through his hospitaHty. Bowls of soup, with garlic, lotus, water chestnut, and Heaven knows what else in it, were served, which I really could not tackle. A huge chunk of polenta to bo eaten with it was also beyond me. I was not very well, so I begged to be excused eating on that ground ; whereupon the good General became most solicitous, and pressed first one remedy and then another upon me.
Mr. Him Shan, Messrs. Jardine's agent, had engaged the Chinese houseboat for me, and as there was only a table and one chair in it, some time was occupied in getting our provisions, kitchen cooking equipment — including cooking- stove — all fixed up. The houseboat was about 60 feet long. In tlio bow was a deck, open during the day, for working the craft, but most ingeniously covered in with bamboo matting at night, so as to make a sleeping-room for eighteen trackers, two pilots, five deck-hands, and the cook. Behind this came my house, which was just like a travelling caravan fixed on a boat instead of on wheels, and divided into three compartments. It was most roughly put together, and h;id chinks into whicli you could put your fingers. These I had stuffed with cotton-wool, and then papered over vilh strips of paper inside. The interior was painted red and roughly decorated with gilt. Behind this was an open space, where the rudder was \\orked, and beyond that the compartment occupied by the captain (Lao-tii), his wife, and four little children. In addition to the rudder, there is fixed in the
134 CHINA AND THE PRESENT CRISIS
bow a huge bow-sweep, which acts as a second rudder, to be employed if the vessel becomes un- governable and is not answering her helm. The houseboat (kua-tza) has a huge mast and sail, which are of great service whenever a fair wind comes. Altogether there were to be thirty-eight souls sleeping on board this craft in connection with my expedition, which was, therefore, rather an extensive under- taking. Mr. Him Shan had had a huge flag pre- pared, with my name in Chinese characters. In Chinese, Walton is ' Wha-li-Tun,' which means the ' flower of propriety.'
I had to get a supply of money for use up country of the most odd description. Gold and silver coins and paper money are unknown. Pieces of silver called sycee are used, and are valued according to weight ; but the chief medium of exchange is a round metal coin about the size of a halfpenny with a square hole in the centre. These are strung together, and 850 of them are worth 26'. They are, of course, heavy and difficult to carry. As my kua-tza moved off to the other side of the river, where I was to join her next morning, the Chinese gunboat gave her a salute of three guns, and crackers were discharged all around. The latter were to chin-chin their Joss for good luck on the voyage.
To their shame the British have had no complete survey made of the Yangtsze River since 1861. In a river of its changing character old charts are useless. On the other hand, though they have not
RIVER SURVEY 135
a tithe of our trade, the French Jesuit priests have completed a new survey, which I proved to be most accurate, and wlncli was invaluable. This shows great negligence on tlic part of our officials who are responsible for having surveys made.
136 CHINA AND THE PEESENT CEISIS
CHAPTEE VIII
THE UPPER YANGTSZE EXPEDITION
My starting-point — Ichang — is no less than 1,100 miles from the sea, and here the majestic Yangtsze is about three-quarters of a mile wide, even at this season of the 3'car. In summer, when at its highest, it is much more. The usual difference between the highest and the lowest water is sixty to seventy feet, and it has reached nearly 100 feet. Fortunately, the river had fallen rapidly during the previous ten days, and on October 9, when I set out, it might be regarded as in a medium condition. Captain Plant, who had had ten years' experience in navigating rapids on the Karun Paver, in Persia, accompanied me, to take charge of Mr. Little's steam-launch when we met her. We had telegraphed to have the launch sent down to Patting, some sixty miles above Ichang, so that we might change into her, or we might decide to have the ' kua-tza ' towed, as would best fucihtate otir jotirney.
YANGTSZE TBACKERS
We got under way about 9.30, and as there was no fair wind otir trackers were soon on the towpath.
THE EIVER TEACKEES 137
swarming up slopes and around bluffs, uttering their musical cries to enable them to keep step. When out of sight a drum was beaten to guide them as to when to go ahead. The hawsers are made of bamboo strips twisted into a rope, and will stand an enormous strain. The trackers put a broad band over one shoulder, across the chest, and under the armpit, and attach this to the rope by a thong having a large round flat button at its end. In this way all their drawing power is brought to bear. The trackers are a fine set of men, who look in the pink of condition. I greatly envied them their muscles standing out like whipcord. I found both trackers and crew as contented, merry, and good- natured a lot of travelling companions as I ever desire to have. Unfortunately, no fair wind came to our assistance for some days, and our progress was disappointingly slow.
AX UNSUITABLE CEAFT
I soon discovered that I had got the very worst type of craft for making a rapid journey. She was too ho;ivy and unwieldy altogether, just like lead in the water. In order to encourage the men to put their 1)ac]vs intji it I made them daily presents of cash \\h\\ wliicli to buy pork, which is the Chinaman's gre;'te.-^t hixury. Their food is kno^vn as ' cliriw,' and tliey lliiiik a great deal al)0ut it. So loiig as they get good chow they are as liappy as the days are loni:.
138 CHINA AND THE PEESENT CEISIS
CHIXESE COOKS
The Chinese are splendid cooks, and it was very interesting to watch them preparing food in the cleverest, cleanest, and most scientific fashion