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A GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

BOOKS FOR THE, HOUSEHOLD.

Practical Cooking and Serving.

By J. M. Hill, ^ith many Coloured and Half-tone Illustrations.
Crown 8vo, price lOs. net.

" We think the book the best and most helpful of the many published of late
years." — Daily Chronicle,

The Pleasures of the Table.

By E. H. Ellwanger. 12s. net.

" Charmingly written, well illustrated and appeals to the epicure in epigrams as
well as entries, to the connoisseur of wit as well as wine." — Lady's Pictorial.

The Complete Indian Housekeeper and

Cook. By Flora Annie Steel and Grace Gardiner. In
one Volume. 6s.
"It will be invaluable to the English housekeeper in India." — P nil Mall Gazette.

The Cook's Decameron.

By Mrs, W. G. Waters. With over 200 Italian recipes.
Crown 8vo, 2s. 6d.

" One of the most novel and really useful works on Cookery it has been my lot to
read." — Ladys Pictorial.

The American Salad Book.

By M. De Loup. 2s. 6d.

"Should be in every English Household." — Daily Graphic.

Practical Lessons in Cookery for Small

Households. By Georgette Bendall. Is. net.

" A most useful little book, to be recommended on account ot the economical
nature of the recipes." — Glasgow Herald.

Modern Housecraft.

By Lucy H. Yates. Fcap. 8vo, price 2s. 6d. net.

"A valuable little handbook, full of advice. . . . The advice is sound, the
discussions are eminently practical, and the book should be something of a boon." —
The Evening Standard.

London : WILLIAM HEINEMANN.

i'jr,.M,,.7

A GUIDE TO
MODERN COOKERY

BY

A. ESCOFFIER

OF THE CAHI-TON HOTEL

LONDON
WILLIAM HEINEMANN

190;

in

Copyright 1907 hy William Heinemann

PREFACE

If the art of Cookery in all its branches were not under-
going a process of evolution, and if its canons could be once
and for ever fixed, as are those of certain scientific operations
and mathematical procedures, the present work would have no
raison d'etre; inasmuch as there already exist several excellent
culinary text-books in the English language. But everything
is so unstable in these times of progress at any cost, and social
customs and methods of life alter so rapidly, that a few years
now suffice to change completely the face of usages which at
their inception bade fair to outlive the age — so enthusiastically
were they welcomed by the public.

In regard to the traditions of the festal board, it is but
twenty years ago since the ancestral English customs began to
make way before the newer methods, and we must look to the
great impetus given to travelling by steam traction and naviga-
tion, in order to account for the gradual but unquestionable
revolution.

In the wake of the demand came the supply. Palatial hotels
were built, sumptuous restaurants were opened, both of which
offered their customers luxuries undreamt of theretofore in such
establishments.

Modern society contracted the habit of partaking of light
suppers in these places, after the theatres of the Metropolis
had closed; and the well-to-do began to flock to them on
Sundays, in order to give their servants the required weekly
rest. And, since restaurants allow of observing and of being
observed, since they are eminently adapted to the exhibiting of
magnificent dresses, it was not long before they entered into
the life of Fortune's favourites.

But these new-fangled habits had to be met by novel methods
of Cookery — ^better adapted to the particular environment in
which they were to be practised. The admirable productions
popularised by the old Masters of the Culinary Art of the pre-

vi PREFACE

ceding Century did not become the light and more frivolous
atmosphere of restaurants ; were, in fact, ill-suited to the brisk
waiters, and their customers who only had eyes for one another.

The pompous splendour of those bygone dinners, served in
the majestic dining-halls of Manors and Palaces, by liveried
footmen, was part and parcel of the etiquette of Courts and
lordly mansions.

It is eminently suited to State dinners, which are in sooth
veritable ceremonies, possessing their ritual, traditions, and —
one might even say — their high priests ; but it is a mere hin-
drance to the modern, rapid service. The complicated and
sometimes heavy menus would be unwelcome to the hyper-
critical appetites so common nowadays; hence the need of a
radical change not only in the culinary preparations themselves,
but in the arrangements of the menus, and the service.

Circumstances ordained that I should be one of the movers
in this revolution, and that I should manage the kitchens of
two establishments which have done most to bring it about.
I therefore venture to suppose that a book containing a record
of all the changes which have come into being in kitchen work —
changes whereof I am in a great part author^may have some
chance of a good reception at the hands of the public, i.e., at
the hands of those very members of it who have profited by
the changes I refer to.

For it was only with the view of meeting the many and
persistent demands for such a record that the present volume
was written.

I had at first contemplated the possibility of including only
new recipes in this formulary. But it should be borne in mind
that the changes that have transformed kitchen procedure during
the last twenty-five years could not all be classed under the head
of new recipes ; for, apart from the fundamental principles of
the science, which we owe to Careme, and which will last as
long as Cooking itself, scarcely one old-fashioned method has
escaped the necessary new moulding required by modern
demands. For fear of giving my work an incomplete appear-
ance, therefore, I had to refer to these old-fashioned practices
and to include among my new recipes those of the former
which most deserved to survive. But it should not be forgotten
that in a few years, judging from the rate at which things are
going, the publication of a fresh selection of recipes may become
necessary ; I hope to live long enough to see this accomplished,
in order that I may follow the evolution, started in my time,
and add a few more original creations to those I have already

PREFACE vii

had the pleasure of seeing adopted; despite the fact that the
discovery of new dishes grows daily more difficult.

But novelty is the universal cry — novelty by hook or by
crook ! It is an exceedingly common mania among people of
inordinate wealth to exact incessantly new or so-called new
dishes. Sometimes the demand comes from a host whose luxu-
rious table has exhausted all the resources of the modern cook's
repertory, and who, having partaken of every delicacy, and
often had too much of good things, anxiously seeks new sensa-
tions for his blase palate. Anon, we have a hostess, anxious to
outshine friends with whom she has been invited to dine, and
whom she afterwards invites to dine with her.

Novelty ! It is the prevailing cry ; it is imperiously demanded
by everyone.

For all that, the number of alimentary substances is com-
paratively small, the number of their combinations is not
infinite, and the amount of raw material placed either by art or
by nature at the disposal of a cook does not grow in propor-
tion to the whims of the public.

What feats of ingenuity have we not been forced to perform,
at times, in order to meet our customers' wishes ? Those only
who have had charge of a large, modern kitchen can tell the
tale. Personally, I have ceased counting the nights spent in
the attempt to discover new combinations, when, completely
broken with the fatigue of a heavy day, my body ought to have
been at rest.

Yet, the Chef who has had the felicity to succeed in turning
out an original and skilful preparation approved by his public
and producing a vogue, cannot, even for a time, claim the
monopoly of his secret discovery, or derive any profit therefrom.
The painter, sculptor, writer and musician are protected by
law. So are inventors. But the chef has absolutely no redress
for plagiarism on his work ; on the contrary, the more the latter
is liked and appreciated, the more will people clamour for his
recipes. Many hours of hard work perhaps underlie his latest
creation, if it have reached the desired degree of perfection.

He may have forfeited his recreation and even his night's
rest, and have laboured without a break over his combination;
and, as a reward, he finds himself compelled, morally at least,
to convey the result of his study to the first person who asks,
and who, very often, subsequently claims the invention of the
recipe — to the detriment of the real author's chances and reputa-
tion.

This frantic love of novelty is also responsible for many of

VIU

PREFACE

the difficulties attending the arrangement of menus ; for very
few people know what an arduous task the composing of a
perfect menu represents.

The majority — even of those who are accustomed to recep-
tions and the giving of dinners — suppose that a certain routine
alone is necessary, together with some culinary practice, in order
to write a menu ; and few imagine that a good deal more is
needed than the mere inscription of Courses upon a slip of
pasteboard.

In reality the planning of these alimentary programmes is
among the most difficult problems of our art, and it is in
this very matter that perfection is so rarely reached. In the
course of more than forty yearo' experience as a chef, I have
been responsible for thousands of menus, some of which have
since become classical and have ranked among the finest served
in modern times; and I can safely say, that in spite of the
familiarity such a period of time ought to give one with the
work, the setting-up of a presentable menu is rarely accom-
plished without lengthy labour and much thought, and for all
that the result is not always to my satisfaction. From this it
may be seen how slender are the claims of those who, without
any knowledge of our art, and quite unaware of the various
properties belonging to the substances we use, pretend to
arrange a proper menu.

However difficult the elaboration of a menu may be, it is
but the first and by no means the only difficulty which results
from the rapidity with which meals are served nowadays. The
number of dishes set before the diners being considerably
reduced, and the dishes themselves having been deprived of all
the advantages which their sumptuous decorations formerly lent
them, they must recover, by means of perfection and delicacy,
sufficient in the way of quality to compensate for their dimin-
ished bulk and reduced splendour. They must be faultless in
regard to quality; they must be savoury and light. The choice
of the raw material, therefore, is a matter demanding vast
experience on the part of the chef; for the old French adage
which says that " La sauce fait passer le poisson " has long since
ceased to be true, and if one do not wish to court disapproba-
tion— often well earned — the fish should not be in the slightest
degree inferior to its accompanying sauce.

While on the subject of raw material, I should like, en
passant, to call attention to a misguided policy which seems
to be spreading in private houses and even in some commercial
establishments; I refer to the custom which, arising as it doubt-

PREFACE ix

less does from a mistaken idea of economy, consists of entrusting
the choice of kitchen provisions to people unacquainted with
the profession, and who, never having used the goods which'
they have to buy, are able to judge only very superficially of
their quality or real value, and cannot form any estimate of
their probable worth after the cooking process.

If economy were verily the result of such a policy none
would object to it. But the case is exactly the reverse; for, in
the matter of provisions, as in all commercial matters, the
cheapest is the dearest in the end. To obtain good results,
good material in a sufficient quantity must be used, and, in
order to obtain good material, the latter should be selected by
the person who is going to use it, and who knows its qualities
and properties. Amphitryons who set aside these essential prin-
ciples may hope in vain to found a reputation for their tables.

It will be seen that the greater part of the titles in this
work have been left in French. I introduced, or rather promul-
gated this system, because, since it is growing every day more
customary to write menus in French, it will allow those who are
unacquainted with the language to accomplish the task with
greater ease. Moreover, many of the titles — especially those of
recent creations — are quite untranslatable. As the index, how-
ever, is in English, and in every case the order number of each
recipe accompanies the number of the page where it is to be
found, no confusion can possibly arise. I have also allowed
certain French technical terms, for which there exist no English
equivalents, to remain in their original form, and these will be
found explained in a glossary at the end of the book.

I preferred to do this rather than strain the meaning of
certain English words, in order to fit them to a slightly unusual
application ; and in so doing I only followed a precedent which
has been established on a more or less large scale by such
authors of English books on French cooking as Francatelli,
Gouff^, Ranhoffer, etc.

But the example for such verbal adoptions was set long ago
in France, where sporting and other terms, for which no suitable
native words could be found, were borrowed wholesale from the
English language, and gallicised. It is therefore not unreason-
able to apply the principle to terms in cookery which, though
plentiful and varied in France, are scarce in this country.

To facilitate the reading of the recipes, all words which are
not in common use, and of which the explanation will be found
in the Glossary, are italicised in the text.

In concluding this preface, which, I fear, has already over-

PREFACE

reached the bounds I intended for it, I should like to thank
those of my lady clients as well as many English epicures whose
kind appreciation has been conducive to the writing of this work.
I trust they will favour the latter with the generous considera-
tion of which they have so frequently given the author valuable
proofs, and for which he is glad of an opportunity of expressing
his deep gratitude.

CONTENTS

PART I

FUNDAMENTAL ELEMENTS
CHAPTER I

PAGE

FONDS DE CUISINE ........ I

CHAPTER II
THE LEADING WARM SAUCES ..... • '5

CHAPTER III

THE SMALL COMPOUND SAUCES ... . . 24

CHAPTER IV

COLD SAUCES AND COMPOUND BUTTERS ..... 48

CHAPTER V

SAVOURY JELLIES OR ASPICS . ...... 59

CHAPTER VI
THE COURT-BOUILLONS AND THE MARINADES . . . -64

CHAPTER VII
\J/: ELEMENTARY PREPARATIONS ..... 70

CHAPTER VIII
THE VARIOUS GARNISHES FOR SOUPS . . . . 87

CHAPTER IX
GARNISHING PREPARATIONS FOR RELEVis AND ENTR]£eS . . 92

CHAPTER X

U^DING CULINARY OPERATIONS . .... 97

xii CONTENTS

PART II

RECIPES AND MODES OF PROCEDURE

CHAPTER XI

PAGE

HORS-D'CEUVRES . . . . . . . , .137

CHAPTER XII

EGGS ....... . . 164

CHAPTER XIII
SOUPS .......... 197

CHAPTER XIV

FISH .......... 260

CHAPTER XV
RELEVilS AND ENTRIES OF BUTCHER'S MEAT .... 352

CHAPTER XVI
RELEVES AND ENTRIES OF POULTRY AND GAME .... 473

CHAPTER XVII
ROASTS AND SALADS ........ 605

CHAPTER XVIII
VEGETABLES AND FARINACEOUS PRODUCTS .... 624

CHAPTER XIX
SAVORIES .......... 678

CHAPTER XX
ENTREMETS. (SWEETS) . . ..... 687

CHAPTER XXI

ICES AND SHERBETS ..... 788

CHAPTER XXII

DRINKS AND REFRESHMENTS . . . . . . .816

CHAPTER XXIII
FRUIT-STEWS AND JAMS ,.,,... 820

GLOSSARY

Abats, stands for such butcher's supplies as heads, hearts, livers, kidneys,
feet, &c.

Aiguillettes, see No. 1755.

Ailerons, see No. 1583.

Amourettes, see No. 1288.

Anglaise, to treat k I'Anglaise, see No. 174.

Anglaise, to cook k I'Anglaise, means to cook plainly in water.

Anglaise, a preparation of beaten eggs, oil and seasoning.

Attereaux, see No. 12 19.

Baba-moulds, a kind of small deep cylindrical mould, slightly wider at the
top than at the bottom.

Bain-Marie, a hot-water bath in which utensils containing various culinary
preparations are immersed to keep warm, or for the purpose of poach-
ing or cooking.

Barquettes, see No. 314.

Biscottes, a kind of rusks.

Blanch, Blanched, see No. 273.

Brandade, see No. 127.

Brunoise-fashion, see Cut below.

Canapis, see No. 316.

Caramel Stage, see Stages in the Cooking of Sugar, below.

Casserole (En), see No. 250.

Cassolette, a kind of hot hors-d'oeuvre, moulded to the shape of a small
drum.

apes, a kind of mushroom (Boletus edulis).

Chartreuse-fashion, see No. 1220.

Chiffonade, see No. 215.

Chinois, a very small green candied orange.

Chipolata, a kind of small sausages.

Choux, a kind of cake made from Pate k Choux, q.v.

Cisel, Ciseled, to cut a vegetable after the manner of a chaff-cutting
machine.

Clothe, Clothed, Clothing {of moulds), see No. 916.

Coeotte {En), see No. 250.

Concass, Concassed, to chop roughly.

xiv GLOSSARY

Contise, to incise a piepe of meat at stated intervals, and to insert slices of
truffle, or other substance, into each incision.

Crepinettes, see No. 14 lo.

Croustade, see No. 2393.

Croutons, pieces of bread of various shapes and sizes, fried in butter. In
the case of aspic jelly, croutons stand for variously shaped pieces used
in bordering dishes.

Cut, Brunoise-fashion = to cut a product into small dice.

Cut, Julienne-fashion = to cut a product into match-shaped rods.

Cut, Paysanne-fashion = to cut a product into triangles.

Dariok-moulds, small Baba-moulds, q.v.

Darne, see No. 184.

Daubilre, an earthenware utensil used in the cooking of Daubes.

icarlate (A P), salted meat is said to be k I'^carlate when it is swathed in
a coat of scarlet jelly.

Escarole, Batavia chicory.

Feuilletis, a kind of puffs made from puff-paste.

Flute (French, soup), a long crisp roll of bread.

Fondue, (i) a cheese preparation; (2) a pulpy state to which such vege-
tables as tomatoes, sorrel, &c., are reduced by cooking.

Fumet, a kind of essence extracted from fish, game, &c.

Galette, a large quoit, made from puff-paste or short-paste, &c.

Gaufrette, a special wafer.

Ginoise, see No. 2376.

Gild, Gilding, Gilded (i) to cover an object with beaten eggs, by means of a
brush j (2) to give a golden sheen to objects by means of heat.

Gratin, Gratined, see No. 268 to 272 inclusive.

Hatelet, an ornamental skewer ; the word sometimes stands for Attereaux.

Julienne, Julienne-fashion, see Cut.

Langoustine, a small variety of the Spiny Lobster.

Large-Ball Stage, see Stages in the Cooking of Sugar, below.

Large-Crack Stage, see Stages in the Cooking of Sugar, below.

Large-Thread Stage, see Stages in the Cooking of Sugar, below.

Maddoine, a mixture of early-season vegetables or fruit.

Madeleine-mould, a mould in the shape of a narrow scallop-shell.

Manied (said of butter), see No. r5i.

Marinade, see No. i68.

Meringue, see No. 2382. Meringued =C02X&&. with meringue.

Mirepoix, see No. 228.

Mise-en-place, a general name given to those elementary preparations
which are constantly resorted to during the various stages of most
culinary operations.

Morue, Newfoundland or Iceland salt-cod.

Mousses, a class of light, hot or cold preparations of fish, meat, poultry,
game, etc., and sweets, moulded in large moulds in sufficient quan-
tities for several people.

GLOSSARY XV

Mousselines, same as above, but moulded in small quantities at a time,

enough for one person.
Mousserons, a kind of mushroom.
Nappe Stage, see Stages in the Cooking of Sugar, below.
Orgeat, a beverage made from syrup and almonds.
Oxalis, a Mexican vegetable, aUied to sorrel, of which the roots principally

are eaten.
Paillettes au Parmesan, see No. 2322.

Palmettes, palm-shaped pieces of puif-paste, used in decorating.
PanSs i PAnglaise, treated k I'Anglaise, see Anglaise.
Pannequets, see No. 2403.
Papillate, see No. 1259.
P&te i Choux, see No. 2373.
Paupiette, a strip of chicken, of fish fillet, or other meat, garnished with

forcemeat, rolled to resemble a scroll and cooked.
Paysanne-fashion, see Cut.
Pluches, the shreds of chervil, used for soups.
Po'ele, Peeling, see No. 250.
Peek (A Id), see No. 395.
Pralin, see No. 2352.

Pralined, having been treated with Pralin, q.v.
Printanier (Eng. Vernal), a name given to a garnish of early-season

vegetables, cut to various shapes.
Profiterolles, see No. 218.
R&ble, the back of a hare.
Ravioli, see No. 2296.
Ribbon Stage, see No. 2376.
Rissole, to fry brown.
Salpicon, a compound of various products, cut into dice, and, generally,

cohered with sauce or forcemeat.
Sautt, Sauttd, a process of cooking described under No. 251.
Saute, a qualifying term applied to dishes treated in the way described

under No. 251.
Savarin-mould, an even, crown-shaped mould.
Small- Ball Stage, see Stages in the Cooking of Sugar, below.
Small-Crack Stage, see Stages in the Cooking of Sugar, below.
Small- Thread Stage, see Stages in the Cooking of Sugar, below.
Souffli, name given to a class of light, hot or cold preparations of fish,

meat, poultry, game, etc., and sweets, to which the whites of eggs are

usually added if the preparation is served hot, and to which whisked

cream is added if the preparation is served cold.
Soup-Flute, see Flute.
Stages in the Cooking of Sugar : —

Small-Thread'j .

Large-Thread J-See No. 2344.

Small-Ball J

xvi GLOSSARY

Stages in the Cooking of Sugar {continued) : —

Large-Ball ^

Small-Crack L, .^

Large-Crack f^^ ^°- ^344-

Caramel J

Nappe, see No. 2955.
Subrics, see No. 2137.
Suprtme, a name given to the fillet of the breast of a fowl. The term has

been extended to certain of the best parts of fish, game, etc.
Terrine, a patty.

Terrine a P&te, a special utensil in which patties are cooked.
Tomatid. Preparations are said to be tomatdd when they are mixed

with enough tomato purde for the shade and flavour of the latter to

be distinctly perceptible in them.
Vesiga, the dried spine-marrow of the sturgeon.
Zest, the outermost, coloured, glossy film of the rind of an orange or

lemon.

PART I

FUNDAMENTAL ELEMENTS OF
COOKING

CHAPTER I

FONDS DE CUISINE

Before undertaking the description of the different kinds of
dishes whose recipes I purpose giving in this work, it will be
necessary to reveal the groundwork whereon these recipes are
built. And, although this has already been done again and
again, and is wearisome in the extreme, a text-book on cooking
that did not include it would be not only incomplete, but in
many cases incomprehensible.

Notwithstanding the fact that it is the usual procedure, in
matters culinary, to insist upon the importance of the part
played by stock, I feel compelled to refer to it at the outset
of this work, and to lay even further stress upon what has
already been written on the subject.

Indeed, stock is everything in cooking, at least in French
cooking. Without it, nothing can be done. If one's stock is
good, what remains of the work is easy ; if, on the other hand,
it is bad or merely mediocre, it is quite hopeless to expect any-
thing approaching a satisfactory result.

The workman mindful of success, therefore, will naturally
direct his attention to the faultless preparation of his stock, and,
in order to achieve this result, he will find it necessary not
merely to make use of the freshest and finest goods, but also
to exercise the most scrupulous care in their preparation, for,
in cooking, care is half the battle. Unfortunately, no theories,
no formulae, and no recipes, however well written, can take the
place of practical experience in the acquisition of a full know-
ledge concerning this part of the work — the most important,
the most essential, and certainly the most difficult part.

In the matter of stock it is, above all, necessary to have a
sufficient quantity of the finest materials at one's disposal.
The master or mistress of a house who stints in this respect
thereby deliberately forfeits his or her right to make any remark

B

2 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

whatsoever to the chef concerning his work, for, let the talent
or merits of the latter be what they may, they are crippled by
insufficient or inferior material. It is just as absurd to exact
excellent cooking from a chef whom one provides with defective
or scanty goods, as to hope to obtain wine from a bottled
decoction of logwood.

The Principal Kinds of Fonds de Cuisine (Foundation
Sauces and Stocks)

The principal kinds of fonds de cuisine are :■ —

1. Ordinary and clarified consommes.

2. The brown stock or " estouffade," game stocks, the bases
of thickened gravies and of brown sauces.

3. White stock, basis of white sauces.

4. Fish stock.

5. The various essences of poultry, game, fish, &c., the
complements of small sauces.

6. The various glazes : for meat, game, and poultry.

7. The basic sauces : Espagnole,- Veloute, Bechamel,
Tomato, and Hollandaise.

8. The savoury jellies or aspics of old-fashioned cooking.
To these kinds of stock, which, in short, represent the

buttresses of the culinary edifice, must now be added the follow-
ing preparations, which are, in a measure, the auxiliaries of
the above : —

1. The roux, the cohering element in sauces.

2. The " Mirepoix " and " Matignon " aromatic and
flavouring elements.

3. The " Court-Bouillon " and the " Blancs."

4. The various stuffings.

5. The marinades.

6. The various garnishes for soups, for relev^s, for entries,
&c. ("Duxelle," " Duchesse," " Dauphine," Pate a choux,
frying batters, various Salpicons, Profiteroles, Royales CEufs
fil6s, Diablotins, Pastes, &c.).

I— ORDINARY OR WHITE CONSOMME

Quantities for making Four Quarts.

3 lbs. of shin of beef. | lb. of leeks and i stick of celery.
3 lbs. of lean beef. | lb. of parsnips.

1 1 lbs. of fowls' carcases. i medium-sized onion with a

I lb. of carrots. clove stuck in it.

I lb. of turnips.

FONDS DE CUISINE 3

Preparation. — Put the meat into a stock-pot of suitable
dimensions, after having previously strung it together; add
the poultry carcase, five quarts of water, and one-half oz. of
grey salt. Place the stock-pot on a moderate fire in such a
manner that it may not boil too quickly, and remember to
stir the meat from time to time. Under the influence of the
heat, the water gradually reaches the interior of the meat,
where, after having dissolved the liquid portions, it duly com-
bines with them. These liquid portions contain a large pro-
portion of albumen, and as the temperature of the water rises
this substance has a tendency to coagulate. It also increases
in volume, and, by virtue of its lightness, escapes from the
water and accumulates on the surface in the form of scum.
Carefully remove this scum as it forms, and occasionally add
a little cold water before the boil is reached in order that, the
latter being retarded, a complete expulsion of the scum may
be effected. The clearness of the consomm^ largely depends
upon the manner in which this skimming has been carried
out. Then the vegetable garnishing is added. The scum from
these is removed as in the previous case, and the edge of the
stock-pot should be carefully wiped to the level of the fluid, so
as to free it from the deposit which has been formed there.
The stock-pot is then moved to a corner of the fire where it
may continue cooking slowly for four or five hours. At the
end of this time it should be taken right away from the fire,
and, after half a pint of cold water has been added to its con-
tents, it should be left to rest a few minutes with a view to
allowing the grease to accumulate on the surface of the liquid,
whence it must be carefully removed before the consomm^ is
strained. This last operation is effected by means of a very
fine strainer, placed on the top of a white tureen (clean and
wide), which should then be placed in a draught to hasten the
cooling of the consomm6. The tureen should not on any
account be covered, and this more particularly in summer,
when rapid cooling is a precautionary measure against fer-
mentation.

Remarks upon the Different Causes which Combine to
Influence the Quality of a Consomme

It will be seen that I have not made any mention in the
above formula of the meat and the vegetables which have
helped to make the consomm^, my reason being that it is
preferable to remove them from the stock-pot only after the

B 2

4 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

broth has been strained, so as not to run the risk of disturbing
the latter.

The quality of the meat goes a long way . towards settling
the quality of the consomme. In order that the latter be perfect,
it is essential that the meat used should be- that of comparatively
old animals whose flesh is well set and rich in flavour. This
is a sine qua non, and the lack of meat coming from old animals
in England accounts for the difficulty attaching to the making
of a good consomm^ and savoury sauces in this country. Cattle
in England are killed at an age varying from three to four years
at the most; the meat thus obtained has no equal for the
purpose of roasts and grills, and anything approaching it is
rarely met with on the Continent. But when this same meat
is used for boiling or braising, it does not contain enough juice
or flavour to yield a satisfactory result.

This shortcoming is furthermore aggravated by a fault that
many commit who are employed in the making of consommes
and stock. The fault in question consists in cooking the bones
simultaneously with the meat. Now to extract that gelatinous
element from bone which produces the mellowness character-
istic of all good consommes, it is necessary that the gelatigenous
bodies should be cooked for twelve hours at least, and even
after that time has elapsed they are still not entirely spent.
On the Continent the quality of the meat easily compensates
for this technical error, but such is certainly not the case in
England, where five hours' stewing only results in a flat and
insipid consomm^.

I therefore believe that, in the case of either consomme or
stock, the formulas of which I shall give later, it would be ad-
visable for the bones to stew at least twelve hours, and this only
after they have been well broken up, while the quantity of water
used should be so calculated as to suffice exactly for the im-
mersion of the meat that must follow. The contents of this
first stock-pot should include half of the vegetables mentioned,
and the consomm6 thus obtained, after having been strained and
cooled, will take the place of the water in the recipe, in accord-
ance with the directions I have given above.

The Uses of White Consomme

., White consomme is used in the preparation of clarified con-
sommes, in which case it undergoes a process of clarifying, the
directions for which will be given later. It also serves as the
liquor for thick soups, poached fowls, &c. It must be limpid.

FONDS DE CUISINE 5

as colourless as possible, and very slightly salted, for, what-
ever the use may be for which it is intended, it has to undergo
a process of concentration.

2— THE PREPARATION OF CLARIFIED
CONSOMME FOR CLEAR SOUPS

Qwantities for making four quarts. — Five quarts of ordinary
consomm^, one and one-half lbs. of very lean beef, the white
of an egg, one fowl's carcase (roasted if possible). First,
mince the beef and pound it in a mortar with the fowl's carcase
and the white of egg, adding a little cold white consomm^.
Put the whole into a tall, narrow, and thick-bottomed stewpan ;
then gradually add the cold, white broth, from which all grease
has been removed, that the whole may be well mixed.
Then the stewpan may be put on the fire, and its contents
thoroughly stirred, for fear of their burning at the bottom.
When boiling-point is reached, move the stewpan to a corner
of the fire, so that the soup may only simmer, for anything
approaching the boil would disturb the contents. A good hour
should be enough to properly finish the consomm^, and any
longer time on the fire would be rather prejudicial than the
reverse, as it would probably impair the flavour of the prepara-
tion. Now carefully remove what little grease may have col-
lected on the surface of the consomm^, and strain the latter
through muslin into another clean stewpan. It is now ready
for the addition of the garnishes that are to form part of it,
which I shall enumerate in due course.

Remarks upon Clarifications

For clarified consommes, even more than for the ordinary
kind, it is eminently advisable that the meat should be that
of old animals. Indeed, it is safe to say that one lb. of meat
coming from an animal of eight years will yield much better
consomm^ than two lbs. would, coming from a fattened
animal of about three or four years. The consomm^ will be
stronger, mellower, and certainly more tasty, as the flesh of
young animals has absolutely no richness of flavour.

It will be seen that I do not refer to any vegetable for the
clarification. If the white consomm^ has been well carried out,
it should be able to dispense with all supplementary flavouring,
and, the customary error of cooks being rather to overdo the
quantity of vegetables — even to the extent of disguising the
natural aroma of the consomm^ — I preferred to entirely abandon

6 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

the idea of vegetable garnishes in clarifications, and thus avoid
a common stumbling-block.

3— CHICKEN CONSOMME

White chicken consomm6 is prepared in exactly the sam.e
way as ordinary white consomm^. There need only be added
to the meat, the quantity of which may be lessened, an old hen
or a cock, slightly coloured on the spit or in the oven.

For the clarification, the quantity of roast fowl-carcases
used may be increased, provided the latter be not too fat. The
process, however, is the same as in the clarification of ordinary
consommds.

The colour of chicken consomm6 should be lighter than that
of the ordinary kind — namely, a light, amber yellow, limpid
and warm. ^

4— FISH CONSOMME

These consommes are rarely used, for Lenten soups with a
fish basis are generally thick soups, for the preparation of
which the fish fumet whereof I shall give the formula later
(Formula No. ii) should avail. Whenever there is no definite
reason for the use of an absolutely Lenten consomm^, it would
be advisable to resort to one of the ordinary kind, and to finish
off the same by means of a good fish essence extracted from
the bones of a sole or whiting. An excellent consomm6 is thus
obtained, more palatable and less flat than the plain fish con-
somm^.

If, however, one were obliged to make a plain fish con-
somm^, the following procedure should be adopted : —

Clarification of Fish Consomme

Quantities for making Four Quarts. — Four and one-half
quarts of ordinary fish fumet having a decided taste; one-half
lb. of good fresh caviare, or pressed caviare.

Mode of Procedure. — Pound the caviare and mix the result-
ing pulp with the cold fish fumet. Put the whole into a sauce-
pan, place it on the open fire, and stir with a spatula until the
contents reach the boil. Then move the saucepan to a corner
of the fire, and let the consomm^ simmer gently for twenty
minutes, after which strain it through muslin with great caution,
and keep it well covered and in the warmth, so as to prevent
the formation of a gelatinous film on the surface.

Fish consommi^s are greatly improved by the addition of

PONDS DE CUISINE 1

such ftfothatics as saffron or curry, both of which considerably
add to their quahty.

' 5— GAME CONSOMME

The necks, breasts, and shoulders of venison and of hare,
old wild rabbits, old pheasants, and old partridges may be used
in the production of game consommes. An ordinary consomm^
may likewise be made, in which half the beef can be replaced
by veal, and to which may be added, while clarifying, a suc-
culent game essence. This last method is even preferable when
dealing with feathered game, but in either case it is essential
that the meat used should be half-roasted beforehand, in order
to strengthen the fumet.

The formula that I give below must therefore only be looked
upon as a model, necessarily alterable according to the resources
at one's disposal, the circumstances, and the end in view.

Quantities for making Four Quarts of Plain Game Consomme.

3 lbs. of neck, shoulder, or breast i medium-sized leek and 2 sticks

of venison. of celery.

I J lbs. of hare-trimmings. i bunch of herbs with extra
I old pheasant or 2 partridges. thyme and bay leaves.

4 oz. of sliced carrots, browned in i onion, oven-browned, with 2

butter. cloves stuck into it.

J lb. of mushrooms, likewise
browned in butter.

Liquor. — Five and one-half quarts of water.

Seasoning. — One oz. of salt and a few peppercorns, these
to be added ten minutes previous to straining the consomm^.

Time allowed for cooking. — Three hours.

Mode of Procedure. — Proceed in exactly the same way as for
* ordinary consommes, taking care only to half-roast the meat,
as I pointed out above, before putting it in the stewpan.

The Clarification of Game Consommes

The constituents of the clarification of game consommes
vary according to the kind of consomm^ desired. If it is to
have a partridge flavour, one partridge should be allowed for
each quart of the consomm^, whereas if its flavour is to be
that of the pheasant, half an old pheasant will be required per
each quart of the liquid. Lastly, in the case of plain game
consommes, one lb. of lean venison, hare, or wild rabbit should
be allowed for each quart of the required consomm6.

Mode of Procedure. — Whatever be the kind of game used,
the latter must be thoroughly boned and the meat well pounded,
together with the white of an egg per four quarts of consomm^.

8 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

About two oz. per quart of dried mushrooms should now be
added if they can be procured, while the bones and the remains
or carcases of game should be browned in the oven and com-
pletely drained of all grease. The whole can now be mixed
with the cold game consomm^. The clarification is then put
over an open fire (stirring incessantly the while), and as soon
as the boil is reached the saucepan must be moved to a corner
of the fire, where its contents niay gently boil for three-quarters
of an hour. The fat should then be removed, and the con-
somm^ strained through muslin, after which cover up until
wanted.

6— SPECIAL CONSOMMES FOR SUPPERS

The consommes whose formulae I have just given are in-
tended more particularly for dinners. They are always finished
off by some kind of garnish, which, besides lending them an
additional touch of flavour, gives them their special and definite
character when they are served up in the diner's plate.

But the case is otherwise with the consommes served for
suppers. These, being only served in cups, either hot or cold,
do not allow of any garnishing, since they are to be drunk at
table. They must therefore be perfect in themselves, delicate,
and quite clear.

These special consommes are made in a similar manner to
the others, though it is needful to slightly increase the quantity
of meat used for the clarification, and to add to that clarification
the particular flavour mentioned on th.e menu — to wit, a few
stalks of celery, if the consomm^ is a celery one; a small
quantity of curry, if the consomm6 is given as " ^ ITndienne " ;
or a few old roast partridges if it is to be termed " Consomm^
au fumet de perdreau " ; and so on.

The means by which one may vary the aroma of con-
sommes are legion, but it is highly important, what aroma
soever be used, that the latter be not too pronounced. It ought
only to lend a distinctive and, at the same time, subtle finish
to the consomm6, which, besides sharpening the latter, should
increase its succulence.

When the consomm^ is served cold it ought to have the
qualities of an extremely light and easily-melting jelly, barely
firm; but when it is too liquid, it rarely gives that sensation of
perfection and succulence to the palate of the consumer which
the latter expects. When too firm and too gelatinous it is
positively disagreeable; therefore, if it is to be relished, it
should be just right in respect of consistency.

FONDS DE CUISINE 9

7— BROWN STOCK OR "ESTOUFFADE"

Quantities for making Four Quarts.

4 lbs. of shin of beef (flesh and | lb. of minced carrots, browned

bone). in butter.

4 lbs. of shin of veal (flesh and | lb. of minced onions, browned

bone). in butter.

i lb. of lean, raw ham. i faggot, containing a little pars-

I lb. of fresh pork rind, rinsed ley, a stick of celery, a small

in tepid water. sprig of thyme, and a bay

leaf.

Preparation. — Bone and string the meat, and keep it in
readiness for the morrow. Break the bones as finely as pos-
sible, and, after having besprinkled them with a little stock-fat,
brown them in an oven ; also stir them repeatedly. When they
are slightly browned, put them in a conveniently large sauce-
pan with the carrots, the onions, and the faggot. Add five
quarts of cold water, and put the saucepan on an open fire
to boil. As soon as the boil is reached skim carefully; wipe
the edge of the saucepan ; put the lid half on, and allow the
stock to cook gently for twelve hours; then roughly remove
the fat; pass the liquid through a sieve, and let it cool.

This being done, put the meat in a saucepan just large
enough to hold it. Brown it a little in some stock-fat, and
clear it entirely of the latter. Add half a pint of the prepared
stock, cover the saucepan, and let the meat simmer on the side
of the fire until the stock is almost entirely reduced. Mean-
while the meat should have been repeatedly turned, that it may
be equally affected throughout. Now pour the remainder of
the stock, prepared from bones, into the saucepan, bring the
whole to the boil, and then move the saucepan to a corner of
the fire for the boiling to continue very slowly and regularly
with the lid off. As soon as the meat is well cooked the fat
should be removed from the stock, and the latter should be
strained or rubbed through a sieve, after which it should be
put aside to be used when required.

Remarks Relative to the Making of Brown Stock. — Instead
of stringing the meat after having boned it, if time presses,
it may be cut into large cubes before browning. In this case
one hour and a half would suffice to cook it and to extract all
its juice.

Whether brown or white, stock should never be salted,
because it is never served in its original state. It is either
reduced in order to make glazes or sauces — in which case the
concentration answers the purpose of seasoning — or else it is

lo GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

used to cook meat which miist be salted before being cooked,
and which, therefore, imparts the necessary salt to its sur-
rounding liquor.

Brown stock ought to be the colour of fine burnt amber,
and it must be transparent. It is used in making meat-glazes
after reduction, also to moisten meat for braising and to prepare
brown sauces.

8— BROWN GAME STOCK

There is no difference between the game consommes and
game stock, or, otherwise stated, ordinary game consomme
and brown game stock are one and the same thing. The dis-
tinction lies in the ultimate use of this preparation ; it is clari-
fied, as we have shown (Formula 5), if it be intended for a clear
soup, and it is used in its original state if it is to be used for
a thick game soup, for a sauce, or for reducing.

9— BROWN VEAL STOCK

Brown veal stock requires the same quantities of shin and
trimmings of veal as white veal stock (Formula 10). The time
allowed for cooking is, however, a little shorter, and this opera-
tion may be completed within eight hours. This stock is mostly
used as the liquor for poultry and poeled game, while it may
also serve in the preparation of thickened veal stock. Being
quite neutral in taste, it lends itself to all purposes, and readily
takes up the aroma of the meat with which it may happen to
be combined. It is admirably suited to the poaching of quails,
and nothing can supplant it in this particular.

,0— WHITE STOCK, VEAL AND POULTRY STOCK

Quantities for -making Four Quarts.

8 lbs. of shin of veal, or lean and 5J quarts of cold water.

fresh veal trimmings. 4 oz. of leeks strung with a stick

I or 2 fowls' carcases, raw if they of celery.

are handy. i faggot, including i oz. of

12 oz. of carrots. parsley, i bay leaf, and a

6 oz. of onions stuck with a clove. of parsley, i bay leaf, and a

Preparation. — Bone the shins, string the meat, break up the
bones as small as possible, and put them in a stewpan with the
water. Place on an open fire, allow to boil, skim carefully,
and then move to a side of the fire to cook very gently for

FONDS DE CUISINE ii

five hours. At the end of this time put the stock into another
stewpan, add the meat and the vegetables, add water, if neces-
sary, to keep the quantity of liquid at five quarts, let it boil,
and allow it to cook slowly for another three hours, after which
remove all grease from the stock, pass the latter through a fine
strainer or a colander, and put it aside until wanted.

Remarks upon White Stock. — One should contrive to make
this stock as gelatinous as possible. It is therefore an indis-
pensable measure that the bones be well broken up and cooked
for at least eight hours. Veal never yields such clear stock
as beef; nevertheless, the consomm^ obtained from veal should
not be turbid. It must, on the contrary, be kept as clear and
as white as possible.

Poultry Stock is made by adding two old fowls to the above
veal stock, and these should be put into the liquor with the meat.

Fish Stock

u— WHITE FISH STOCK

Quantities for making Four Quarts.

4 lbs. of trimmings and bones of 2 oz. of parsley, root or stalks.

sole or whiting. J bottle of white wine.

I lb. of sliced, blanched onions.

Preparation. — Butter the bottom of a thick, tall stewpan,
put in the blanched onions and the parsley-stalks, and upon
these aromatics lay the fish remains. Add the juice of a lemon,
cover the stewpan, put it on the fire, and allow the fish to
exude its essence, jerking the pan at intervals. Moisten, in
the first place, with the white wine ; then, with the lid off, reduce
the liquid to about half. Now add four quarts of cold water,
bring to the boil, skim, and. then leave to cook for twenty
minutes, only, on a moderate fire. The time allowed is ample
for the purpose of extracting the aromatic and gelatinous
properties contained in the bones, and a more protracted stew-
ing would only impair the savour of the stock.

Remarks upon White Fish Stock. — The formula which I
give above diverges considerably from that commonly used,
for, as a rule, fish stock is diluted far too much, and is stewed
for much too long a time. I have observed that fish stock may
be greatly improved by rapid cooking, and it was this considera-
tion that led me to dilute it scantily, so as to avoid prolonged
reduction.

12 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

It is likewise necessary to remember that in order to make
perfect fish stock, only the sole or whiting should be used. In
a case of emergency, however, i.e., if the supply of the latter
were to run short, a quarter of their weight of brill bones might
be added to them. But all other kinds of fish should be avoided
in the preparation.

12— FISH STOCK WITH RED WINE ""

This stock is comparatively rarely used, because, in practice,
it is naturally obtained in the cooking of the fish itself, as, for
instance, in the case of the " Matelotes." Be this as it may,
with the recent incursion of a custom which seems to demand,
ever more and more, the serving of fish without bones, the
following formula will be worthy of interest, as it is likely that
its need will henceforth be felt with increasing urgency.

Fish fumet with red wine may be prepared from all fresh-
water fish, as well as from the remains of sole, whiting, chicken-
turbot, and brill. It is generally better, however, to have re-
course to the bones and remains of that fish which happens to
be constituting the dish — that is to say, the bones and trimmings
of sole in a stock for fillet of sole, the bones and trimmings of
a chicken-turbot in a fumet for a chicken-turbot, and so on. The
preparatory formula remains the same, whatever the kind of
fish used may be.

Quantities for making Four Quarts of Fumet with Red
Wine. — Four lbs. of bones, heads, and trimmings of the fish
to be served; three-quarters lb. of minced white onions; three
oz. of parsley stalks, two bay leaves, four small sprigs of thyme,
and four cloves of garlic ; two bottles of red wine and five pints
of water.

Mode of Procedure. — Put all the above-mentioned in-
gredients in a thick and tall stewpan, boil, skim carefully, and
allow to cook twenty to thirty minutes on a moderate fire ; then
strain the stock through a colander into a tureen, to be used
when required.

Remarks upon Fish Stock with Red Wine. — This stock
stands reduction far better than white fish stock. Nevertheless,
I urge the advisability of trying to obtain the required quantity
without reduction. In its preparation, one may use some mush-
room parings, as in the case of white stock, if these are handy,
and they will be found to lend an agreeable flavour to the fish
fumet.

FONDS DE CUISINE 13

13— VARIOUS ESSENCES

As their name implies, essences are stock which hold a large
proportion of a substance's aroma in a concentrated form. They
are, in fact, ordinary stock, only less diluted, with the idea
of intensifying the flavour of the treated ingredients r hence
their utility is nil if the stock which they are intended to finish
has been reasonably and judiciously treated. It is infinitely
simpler ta make savoury and succulent stock in the first place
than to produce a mediocre stock, and finally complete it by a
specially prepared essence. The result in the first instance is
better, and there is economy of time and material.

The most one can do is to recommend, in certain circum-
stances, the use of essences extracted from particularly well-
flavoured products, as, for instance, mushrooms, truffles, morels,
and celery. But it would be well to remember that, nine times
out of ten, it is preferable to add the product itself to the stock
during the preparation of the same than to prepare essences.

For this reason I do not think it necessary to dilate upon
the subject of essences, the need of which should not be felt
in good cooking.

14— VARIOUS GLAZES

The various glazes of meat, fowl, game, and fish are merely
stock reduced to the point of viscosity. Their uses are legion.
Occasionally they serve in decking dishes with a brilliant and
unctuous coating which makes them sightly; at other times
they may help to strengthen the consistence of a sauce or other
culinary preparation, while again they may be used as sauces
proper after they have been correctly creamed or buttered.

Glazes are distinguished from essences by the fact that the
latter are only prepared with the object of extracting all the
flavour of the product under treatment, whereas the former are,
on the contrary, constituted by the whole base of the substance
itself. They therefore have not only its savour, but also
its succulence and mellowness, whereby they are superior to
the essences, and cooking can but be improved by substituting
them for the latter. Nevertheless, many chefs of the old school
do not permit the use of glazes in culinary preparations, or,
rather, they are of opinion that each cooking operation should
produce them on its own account, and thus be sufficient unto
itself. Certainly, the theory is correct when neither time nor
cost is limited. But nowadays the establishments are scarce
where these theories may be applied, and, indeed, if one does

14 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

not make an abuse of glazes, and if they be prepared with care,
their use gives excellent results, while they lend themselves
admirably to the very complex demands of modern customs.

15— MEAT OLAZE

Meat glaze is made by reducing brown stock (Formula 7)
in a large stewpan upon an open fire. As often as the stock
is appreciably reduced, during ebullition, it may be transferred
to smaller stewpans, taking care to strain it through muslin at
each change of stewpan. The glaze may be considered suffi-
ciently reduced when it evenly veneers a withdrawn spoon. The
fire used for reducing should gradually wane as the concentra-
tion progresses, and the last phase must be effected slowly and
on a moderate fire.

When it is necessary to obtain a lighter and clearer glaze,
the brown veal stock (Formula No. 9) should be reduced instead
of the " Estouffade."

16— POULTRY QLAZE

Reduce the poultry base indicated in Formula 10, and
proceed in exactly the same way as for meat glaze (Formula 15).

17— GAME QLAZE

Use the game base (Formula 8), and proceed as for meat
glaze (Formula 9).

18— FISH QLAZE

This glaze is used less often than the preceding ones. As
it is only used to intensify the savour of sauces, it is sufficient
for this purpose to prepare a white fish stock (Formula 11),
which may be diluted with the stock already prepared, and
which may be reduced according to the requirements. The
name of fish fumet or fish essence is given to this preparation ;
its flavour is more delicate than that of fish glaze, which it
replaces with advantage.

CHAPTER II

THE LEADING WARM SAUCES

Warm sauces are of two kinds : the leading sauces, also
called " mother sauces," and the small sauces, which are usually
derived from the first-named, and are generally only modified
forms thereof. Cooking stock only includes the leading sauces,
but I shall refer to the small hot sauces and the cold sauces at
the end of the auxiliary stock.

Experience, which plays such an important part in culinary
work, is nowhere so necessary as in the preparation of sauces,
for not only must the latter flatter the palate, but they must also
vary in savour, consistence and viscosity, in accordance with
the dishes they accompany. By this means, in a well-ordered
dinner, each dish differs from the preceding ones and from those
that follow.

Furthermore, sauces must, through the perfection of their
preparation, obey the general laws of a rational hygiene, where-
fore they should be served and combined in such wise as to
allow of easy digestion by the frequently disordered stomachs
of their consumers.

Car^me was quite justified in pluming himself upon the fact
that during his stay at the English Court his master — the Prince
Regent — had assured him that he (Careme) was the only one
among those who had served his Highness whose cooking had
been at all easy of digestion. Carlme had grasped the essential
truth that the richer the cooking is, the more speedily do the
stomach and palate tire of it. And, indeed, it is a great mistake
to suppose that, in order to do good cooking, it is necessary
to be prodigal in one's use of all things. In reality, practice
dictates fixed and regular quantities, and from these one cannot
diverge without upsetting the hygienic and sapid equilibrium
on which the value of a sauce depends. The requisite quan-
tities of each ingredient must, of course, be used, but neither
more nor less, as there are objections to either extreme.

Any sauce whatsoever should be smooth, light (without

1 6 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

being liquid), glossy to the eye, and decided in taste. When
these conditions are fulfilled it is always easy to digest even
for tired stomachs.

An essential point in the making of sauces is the seasoning,
and it would be impossible for me to lay sufficient stress on the
importance of not indulging in any excess in this respect. It
too often happens that the insipidness of a badly-made sauce is
corrected by excessive seasoning; this is an absolutely deplor-
able practice.

Seasoning should be so calculated as to be merely a com-
plementary factor, which, though it must throw the savour of
dishes into relief, may not form a recognisable part of them.
If it be excessive, it modifies and even destroys the taste peculiar
to every dish — to the great detriment of the latter and of the
consumer's health.

It is therefore desirable that each sauce should possess its
own special flavour, well defined, the result of the combined
flavours of all its ingredients. ^

If, in the making of sauces, one allowed oneself to be guided
by those principles which are the very foundation of good
cookery, the general denunciation of sauces by the medical
faculty would be averted ; and this denunciation no sauce de-
serves if it be carefully prepared, conformably with the laws pre-
scribed by practice and its resulting experience.

The Roux

The roux being the cohering element of leading sauces, it
is necessary to reveal its preparation and constituents before
giving one's attention to the latter.

Three kinds of roux are used — namely, brown roux, for
brown sauces; pale roux, for velout^s, or cream sauces; and
white roux, for white sauces and Bdchamel.

19— BROWN ROUX

Quantities for making about One lb. — Eight oz. of clarified
butter, nine oz. of best-quality flour.

Preparation. — Mix the flour and butter in a very thick stew-
pan, and put it on the side of the fire or in a moderate oven.
Stir the mixture repeatedly so that the heat may be evenly
distributed throughout the whole of its volume.

The time allowed for the cooking of brown roux cannot be
precisely determined, as it depends upon the degree of heat

LEADING SAUCES 17

employed. The more intense the latter, the speedier will
be the cooking, while the stirring will of necessity be more
rapid. Brown roux is known to be cooked when it has acquired
a fine, light brown colour, and when it exudes a scent re-
sembling tha;t of the hazel-nut, characteristic of baked flour.

It is very important that brown roux should not be cooked
too rapidly. As a matter of fact, among the various constituent
elements of flour, the starch alone acts as the cohering prin-
ciple. This starch is contained in little cells, which tightly
constrain it, but which are sufficiently porous to permit the
percolation of liquid and fatty substances. Under the influence
of moderate heat and the infiltered butter, the cells burst
through the swelling of the starch, and the latter thereupon
completely combines with the butter to form a mass capable of
absorbing six times its own weight of liquid when cooked.

When the cooking takes place with a very high initial heat
the starch gets burned within its shrivelled cells, and swelling is
then possible only in those parts which have been least burned.

The cohering principle is thus destroyed, and double or
treble the quantity of roux becomes necessary in order to obtain
the required consistency. But this excess of roux in the sauce
chokes it up without binding it, and prevents it from despumat-
ing or becoming clear. At the same time, the cellulose and
the burnt starch lend a bitterness to the sauce of which no
subsequent treatment can rid it.

From the above it follows that, starch being the only one
from among the different constituents of flour which really
effects the coherence of sauces, there would be considerable
advantage in preparing roux either from a pure form of it, or
from substances with kindred properties, such as fecula, arrow-
root, &c. It is only habit that causes flour to be still used as
the cohering element of roux, and, indeed, the hour is not so
far distant when the advantages of the changes I propose will
be better understood — changes which have been already recom-
mended by Favre in his dictionary.

With a roux well made from the purest starch — in which
case the volume of starch and butter would equal about half that
of the flour and butter of the old method — and with strong and
succulent brown stock, a Spanish sauce or Espagnole may be
made in one hour. And this sauce will be clearer, more brilliant,
and better than that of the old processes, which needed three
days at least to despumate.

1 8 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

20— PALE ROUX

The quantities are the same as for brown roux, but cooking
must cease as soon as the colour of the roux begins to change,
and before the appearance of any colouring whatsoever.

The observations I made relative to brown roux, concerning
the cohering element, apply also to pale roux.

21— WHITE ROUX

Same quantities as for brown and pale roux, but the time
of cooking is limited to a few minutes, as it is only needful, in
this case, to do away with the disagreeable taste of raw flour
which is typical of those sauces whose roux has not been suffi-
ciently cooked.

22— BROWN SAUCE OR ESPAQNOLE

Quantities Required for Four Quarts. — One lb. of brown
roux dissolved in a tall, thick saucepan with six quarts of brown
stock or estouffade. Put the saucepan on an open fire, and stir
the sauce with a spatula or a whisk, and do not leave it until it
begins to boil. Then remove the spatula, and put the sauce-
pan on a corner of the fire, letting it lean slightly to one side
with the help of a wedge, so that boiling may only take place
at one point, and that the inert principles thrown out by the
sauce during despumation may accumulate high up in the sauce-
pan, whence they can be easily removed as they collect.

It is advisable during despumation to change saucepans twice
or even three times, straining every time, and adding a quart
of brown stock to replace what has evaporated. At length,
when the sauce begins to get lighter, and about two
hours before finally straining it, two lbs. of fresh tomatoes,
roughly cut up, should be added, or an equivalent quantity of
tomato pur^e, and about one lb. of Mirepoix, prepared accord-
ing to Formula No. 228. The sauce is then reduced so as to
measure four quarts when strained, after which it is poured
into a wide tureen, and must be kept in motion until quite cool
lest a skin should form on its surface.

The time required for the despumation of an Espagnole
varies according to the quality of the stock and roux. We saw
above that one hour sufficed for a concentrated stock and starch
roux, in which case the Mirepoix and the tomato are inserted
from the first. But much more time is required if one is deal-
ing with a roux whose base is flour. In the latter case six hours

LEADING SAUCES 19

should be allowed, provided one have excellent stock and well-
made roux. More often than not this work is done in two
stages, thus : after having despumated the Espagnole for six
or eight hours the first day, it is put on the fire the next day
with half its volume of stock, and it is left to despumate a few
hours more before it is finally strained.

Summing up my opinion on this subject, I can only give
my colleagues the following advice, based upon long experi-
ence : —

1. Only use strong, clear stock with a decided taste.

2. Be scrupulously careful of the roux, however it may be
made. By following these two rules, a clear, brilliant, and
consistent Espagnole will always be obtained in a fairly short
time.

23— HALF GLAZE

This is the Espagnole sauce, having reached the limit of per-
fection by final despumation. It is obtained by reducing one
quart of Espagnole and one quart of first-class brown stock
until its volume is reduced to nine-tenths of a quart. It is then
put through a strainer into a bain-marie of convenient dimen-
sions, and it is finished, away from the fire, with one-tenth of
a quart of excellent sherry. Cover the bain-marie, or slightly
butter the top to avoid the formation of a skin. This sauce
is the base of all the smaller brown sauces.

24— LENTEN ESPAGNOLE

Practical men are not agreed as to the need of Lenten
Espagnole. The ordinary Espagnole being really a neutral
sauce in flavour, it is quite simple to give it the necessary flavour
by the addition of the required quantity of fish fumet. It is
only, therefore, when one wishes to conform with the demands
of a genuine Lent sauce that a fish Espagnole is needed. And,
certainly in this case, nothing can take its place.

The preparation of this Espagnole does not differ from thai
of the ordinary kind, except that the bacon is replaced by mush-
room parings in the Mirepoix, and that the sauce must be de-
spumated for only one hour.

This sauce takes the place of the ordinary Espagnole, for
Lenten preparations, in every case where the latter is generally
used, in Gratins, in the Genevoise sauce, &c.

c 3

20 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

25-ORDINARY VELOUTE SAUCE

Quantities Required for Four Quarts. — One lb. of pale roux
(Formula 20), five quarts of white veal stock (Formula 10).

Dissolve the roux in the cold white veal stock and put the
saucepan containing this mixture on an open fire, stirring the
sauce with a spatula or whisk, so as to avoid its burning at
the bottom. Add one oz. of table-salt, a pinch of nutmeg and
white powdered pepper, together with one-quarter lb. of nice
white mushroom parings, if these are handy. Now boil and
move to a corner of the fire to despumate slowly for one and a
half hours, at the same time observing the precautions advised
for ordinary Espagnole (Formula 22). Strain through muslin
into a smaller saucepan, add one pint of white stock, and de-
spumate for another half hour. Strain it again through a tammy
or a sieve into a wide tureen, and keep moving it with a spatula
until it is quite cold.

I am not partial to garnishing Velout^ Sauce with carrots,
an onion with a clove stuck into it, and a faggot, as
many do. The stock should be sufficiently fragrant of itself,
without requiring the addition of anything beyond the usual
condiments. The only exception I should make would be for
mushroom parings, even though it is preferable, when possible,
to replace these by mushroom liquor. But this is always scarce
in kitchens where it is used for other purposes ; wherefore it is
often imperative to have recourse to parings in its stead. The
latter may not, however, be added to the stock itself, as they
would blacken it ; hence I advise their addition to the Veloute
during its preparation.

26— VELOUTE DE VOLAILLE

This is identical with ordinary Velout^, except that instead
of having white veal stock for its liquor, it is diluted with white
poultry stock. The mode of procedure and the time allowed for
cooking are the same.

26a— FISH VELOUTE

Velout^ is the base of various fish sauces whose recipes will
be given in Part II.

Prepare it in precisely the same way as poultry velout^,
but instead of using poultry stock, use very clear fish
fumet, and let it despumate for twenty minutes only. (See fish
fumet No. n.)

LEADING SAUCES it

27— ALLEMANDE SAUCE OR THICKENED VELOUTE

Allemande Sauce is not, strictly speaking, a basic sauce.
However, it is so often resorted to in the preparation of other
sauces that I think it necessary to give it after the Velout^s,
from which it is derived.

Quantities Required for One Quart.

The yolks of 5 eggs. ^ the juice of a lemon.

I pint of cold white stock. | pint of mushroom liquor.

I quart of Velout^, well despu-
mated.

Mode of Procedure. — Put the various ingredients in a thick-
bottomed saut^-pan and mix them carefully. Then put the pan
on an open fire, and stir the sauce with a metal spatula, lest
it burn at the bottom. When the sauce has been reduced to
about one quart, add one-third pint of fresh cream to it, and
reduce further for a few minutes. It should then be passed
through a fine strainer into a tureen and kept moving until
quite cold.

Prepared thus, the Allemande Sauce is ready for the prepara-
tion of the smaller sauces. Butter must only be added at the
very last moment, for if it were buttered any earlier it would
most surely turn. The same injunction holds good with this
sauce when it is to be served in its original state ; it should then
receive a small addition of cream, and be buttered so that it
may attain its required delicacy ; but this addition of butter and
cream ought only to be made at the last moment, and away from
the fire. When a thick sauce has any fat substance added to it,
it cannot be exposed to a higher temperature than 140 degrees
Fahrenheit without risking decomposition.

28— BECHAMEL SAUCE

Quantities Required for Four Quarts.

I lb. of white roux. § oz. of salt, i pinch of mignon-

4J quarts of boiling milk. ette, and grated nutmeg, and

j lb. of lean veal. i small sprig of thyme.

I minced onion.

Preparation. — Pour the boiling milk on the roux, which
should be almost cold, and whisk it well so as to avoid lumps.
Let it boil, then cook on the side of the fire. Meanwhile the
lean veal should have been cut into small cubes, and fried
with butter in a saucepan, together with the minced onion.
When the veal has stiffened without becoming coloured, it is
added to the Bechamel, together with salt and the other aro-
matics. Let the sauce stew for about one hour in all, and then

22 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

pass it through a tammy into a tureen; butter the top, lest a
crust should form.

When Bechamel is intended for Lenten preparations, the
veal must be omitted.

There is another way of making the sauce. After having
boiled the milk, the seasoning and aromatics should be added;
the saucepan is then covered and placed on a corner of the
stove, so as to ensure a thorough infusion. The boiling milk
must now be poured on to the roux which has been separately
prepared, and the sauce should then cook for one quarter of an
hour only.

29— TOMATO SAUCE

Quantities Required for Four Quarts.

5 oz. of salted breast of pork, 2 oz. of butter, ^ oz. of salt, i

rather fat. oz. of sugar, a pinch of

6 oz. of carrots cut into cubes. pepper.

6 oz. of onions cut into cubes. 10 lbs. of raw tomatoes or 4
I bay leaf and i small sprig of quarts of same, mashed.

thyme. 2 quarts of white stock.
5 oz. of flour.

Preparation. — Fry the pork with the butter in a tall, thick-
bottomed saucepan. When the pork is nearly melted, add the
carrots, onions, and aromatics. Cook and stir the vegetables,
then add the flour, which should be allowed to cook until it
begins to brown. Now put in the tomatoes and white stock,
mix the whole well, and set to boil on an open fire. At this
point add the seasoning and a crushed clove of garlic, cover
the saucepan, and place in a moderate oven, where it may cook
for one and one-half hours. At the end of this time the sauce
should be passed through a sieve or tammy, and it should boil
while being stirred. Finally, pour it into a tureen, and butter
its surface to avoid the formation of a skin.

Remarks. — A pur^e of tomatoes is also used in cookery; it
is prepared in precisely the same fashion, except that the flour
is omitted and only one pint of white stock is added.

30— HOLLANDAISE SAUCE

Quantities Required for One Quart. — One and one-half lbs.
of butter, the yolks of six eggs, one pinch of mignonette pepper
and one-quarter oz. of salt, three tablespoonfuls of good vinegar.

Preparation. — Put the salt, the mignonette, the vinegar, and
as much water in a small saucepan, and reduce by three-quarters
on the fire. Move the saucepan to a corner of the fire or into

LEADING SAUCES 23

a bain-marie, and add a spoonful of fresh water and the yolks.
Work the whole with a whisk until the yolks thicken and have
the consistence of cream. Then remove the saucepan to a tepid
place and gradually pour the butter on the yolks while briskly
stirring the sauce. When the butter is absorbed, the sauce
ought to be thick and firm. It is brought to the correct con-
sistence with a little water, which also lightens it slightly, but
the addition of water is optional. The sauce is completed by
a drop of lemon juice, and it is rubbed through a tammy.

Remarks. — The consistence of sauces whose processes are
identical with those of the Hollandaise may be varied at will ;
for instance, the number of yolks may be increased if a very
thick sauce is desired, and it may be lessened in the reverse
case. Also similar results may be obtained by cooking the eggs
either more or less. As a rule, if a thick sauce be required, the
yolks ought to be well cooked and the sauce kept almost cold
in the making. Experience alone — the fruit of long practice —
can teach the various devices which enable the skilled worker
to obtain different results from the same kind and quality of
material.

CHAPTER III

The Small Compound Sauces

Remarks. — In order that the classification of the small
sauces should be clear and methodical, I divide them into three
parts.

The first part includes the small brown sauces; the second
deals with the small white sauces and those suited to this part
of the classification ; while the third is concerned with the
English sauces.

The Small Brown Sauces

31— SAUCE BIQARRADE

This sauce is principally used to accompany braised and
poeled ducklings. In the first case, the duckling's braising
stock, being thickened, constitutes a sauce. In the second case,
the stock is clear, and the procedure in both cases is as
follows : —

1 . After having strained the braising stock, completely remove
its grease, and reduce until it is very dense. Strain it once
more through muslin, twisting the latter ; then, in order to bring
the sauce to its normal consistence, add the juice of six oranges
and one lemon per quart of sauce. Finish with a small piece
of lemon and orange rind cut regularly and finely. Julienne-
fashion, and scalded for five minutes.

2. Strain the poeling stock, for duck or ducks, through linen;
entirely remove the grease, and add four pieces of caramel sugar
dissolved in one tablespoonful of vinegar per one-half pint of
stock, the juice of the oranges and the lemon and the Julienne
of rinds, as for the braised-ducklings sauce indicated above.

THE SMALL COMPOUND SAUCES 25

32— SAUCE BORDELAISE

Put into a vegetable-pan two oz. of very finely minced
shallots, one-half pint of good red wine, a pinch of mignonette
pepper, and bits of thyme and bay. Reduce the wine by
three-quarters, and add one-half pint of half-glaze. Keep the
sauce simmering for half an hour; despumate it from time to
time, and strain it through linen or a sieve. When dishing it
up, finish it with two tablespoonfuls of dissolved meat glaze, a
few drops of lemon-juice, and four oz. of beef-marrow, cut into
slices or cubes and poached in slightly salted boiling water.
This sauce may be buttered to the extent of about three oz. per
pint, which makes it smoother, but less clear. It is especially
suitable for grilled butcher's meat.

33- CHASSEUR SAUCE (Escoffier's Method)

Peel and mince six medium-sized mushrooms. Heat one-
half oz. of butter and as much olive oil in a vegetable-pan; put
in the mushrooms, and fry the latter quickly until they are
slightly browned. Now add a coffeespoonful of minced
shallots, and immediately remove half the butter ; pour one-half
pint of white wine and one glass of liqueur brandy into the
stewpan ; reduce this liquid to half, and finish the sauce with :
one-half pint of half-glaze, one-quarter pint of tomato sauce, and
one tablespoonful of meat-glaze. Set to boil for five minutes
more, and complete with a teaspoonful of chopped parsley.

34— BROWN CHAUD=FROID SAUCE

Put one quart of half-glaze into a saut^-pan with one-fifth
pint of truffle essence. Put the pan on an open fire, and reduce
its contents ; while making same absorb one and one-half pints
of jelly — the latter being added to the sauce in small quantities.

The degree of reduction in this sauce is a good third, but,
to be quite certain, a test of its consistence may be made by
allowing it to cool a little. After the reduction, carefully taste,
and rectify the seasoning if necessary; mix a little Madeira or
Port with the sauce, away from the fire, and strain through
muslin or, preferably, through a Venetian-hair sieve. Stir the
sauce now and then while it cools, until it is sufficiently liquid,
and at the same time consistent enough to coat immersed solids
evenly with a film of sauce. Its use will be explained among
the formulae of the different kinds of Chaud-froids.

26 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

35— VARIETIES OF THE CHAUD-FROID SAUCE

For Ducks. — Prepare the sauce as above, adding to it (for
the prescribed quantity) one-half pint of duck jumet obtained
from the carcases and remains of roast duckling, and finish it,
away from the fire, with the juice of four oranges and a heaped
tablespoonful of orange rind, cut finely. Julienne-fashion, and
scalded for five minutes.

For Feathered Game. — Treat the Chaud-Froid sauce as in-
dicated in No. 34, adding one-half pint of the fumet of the
game constituting the dish in order to lend it that game's
characteristic taste. Observe the same precaution for the cool-
ing.

For Fish. — Proceed as in No. 34, but (i) substitute the
Espagnole of fish for the half glaze; (2) intensify the first Es-
pagnole with one-half pint of very clear fish essence; (3) use
Lenten jelly instead of meat jelly.

Remarks upon the Use of Chaud-Froid Sauces. — The chaud-
froid sauce may be prepared beforehand, and when it is wanted
it need only be gently melted without heating it in the least.
It ought simply to be made sufficiently liquid to give a good
coating to substances immersed in it.

36 -DEVILLED SAUCE

Put in a vegetable pan two oz. of sliced shallots and one-
third pint of white wine. Reduce the latter to two-thirds, add
one-half pint of half-glaze, reduce to two-thirds, season strongly
with cayenne pepper, and strain through muslin. This sauce
may be served with grilled fowls or pigeons. It also forms an
excellent accompaniment to re-dished meat which needs a spicy
sauce.

37-"ESCOFFIER" DEVILLED SAUCE

This sauce, which may be bought ready-made, is admirably
fitted to accompany grilled fish and grills in general. In order
to make it ready, all that is needed is to add its own volume
of fresh butter to it, the latter being previously well softened
so as to ensure its perfect mixture with the sauce.

38— QENEVOISE SAUCE

Heat two oz. of butter in a stewpan; insert one lb. of Mire-
poix (No. 228) without bacon. Slightly brown, add two lbs. of
head of salmon and remains or bones of fish, and stew with
lid on for twenty minutes. Let the stewpan lean slightly to

THE SMALL COMPOUND SAUCES 27

one side, so that the butter may be drained; moisten with one
bottle of excellent red wine; reduce the latter by half; add one
pint of Lenten Espagnole, and allow to cook gently for half an
hour.

Rub the sauce through a sieve, pressing it so as to extract
all the essence. Let it rest awhile; carefully remove the fat
which has risen to the surface, and add one liqueur-glass of
burnt brandy, one-half pint of red wine, and as much fish
fumet. Boil again, then move stewpan to the side of
fire to despumate for one and one-half hours. Frequently re-
move what the ebullition causes to rise to the surface, this
second period of cooking being only to ensure the purification
of the sauce. If the ebullition has been well effected, the sauce
should reach the proper degree of reduction and despumation
at the same moment of time. It is then strained through muslin
or tammy, and it is finished at the last minute with a few drops
of anchovy essence and four oz. of butter per quart of sauce.

N.B. — The Genevoise Sauce, like all red-wine sauces, may
be served without being buttered. It is thus clearer and more
sightly in colour, but the addition of butter in small quantities
makes it mellower and more palatable.

38a— REMARKS ON RED=WINE SAUCES

In the general repertory of cooking we also have, in the
way of red-wine sauces, the " Bourguignonne," "Matelote,"
and " Red- Wine " sauces, which are closely allied to the
" Genevoise," and only differ from it in details of procedure.

The " Bourguignonne " Sauce is composed of red-wine
accompanied by aromatics, and reduced by half. In accord-
ance with ordinary principles, it is thickened by means of
three oz. of manied butter per quart of reduced wine. This
sauce is buttered with four oz. of butter per quart, and is espe-
cially regarded as a domestic preparation for poached, moulded,
and hard-boiled eggs.

"Matelote" Sauce is made from Court-bouillon, with red
wine which has been used for cooking fish. This Court-
bouillon, with the mushroom parings added, is reduced by
two-thirds, and is thickened with one pint of Lenten Espagnole
per pint of the reduced Court-bouillon.

This sauce should be reduced by a third, strained through
a tammy, and finished by means of two oz. of butter and a
little cayenne per pint of sauce.

The Red-Wine Sauce resembles the two preceding ones in
so far as it contains mirepoix browned in butter and diluted

28 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

with red wine. The wine is reduced by half, thickened by a
pint of Lenten Espagnole per pint of the reduction, and the
sauce is despumated for about twenty minutes. It is strained
through a tammy, and finished, when ready, by a few drops
of anchovy essence, a Httle cayenne, and two oz. of butter per
pint of sauce.

39— QRAND-VENEUR SAUCE

Take one pint of Poivrade Sauce (No. 49) and boil it, adding
one pint of game stock to keep it light; reduce the sauce by a
good third ; remove it from the fire, and add four tablespoonfuls
of red-currant jelly. When the latter is well dissolved, com-
plete the sauce by one-quarter pint of cream per pint of sauce.

This sauce is the proper accompaniment for joints of
venison.

40— ITALIAN SAUCE

Ordinary Italian Sauce. — Put into a stewpan six tablespoon-
fuls of Duxelles (see No. 223), two oz. of very lean, cooked
ham, cut very finely, brunoise-fashion, and one pint of half-
glaze tomat^e. Boil for ten minutes, and complete, at the
moment of dishing up, with one teaspoonful of parsley, chervil,
and tarragon, minced and mixed.

Lenten Italian Sauce. — Same preparation, only (i) omit the
ham, and (2) substitute Lent Espagnole (combined with fish
fumet made from the fish for which the sauce is intended) for
half glaze with tomatoes.

41— THICKENED GRAVY

Boil one pint of poultry or veal stock (according to the
nature of the dish the gravy is intended for). Thicken this
sauce by means of three-quarters oz. of fecula, diluted cold,
with a little water or gravy, and pour this leason into the
boiling gravy, being careful to stir briskly.

The thickened gravy with the veal-stock base is used for
choicest pieces of butcher's meat; that with a poultry-stock
base is for fillets of poultry.

42— VEAL GRAVY TOMATE

Add to one pint of veal stock two oz. of pur6e and one-
quarter pint of tomato juice, and reduce by a fifth. Strain the
gravy through linen. This gravy is for butcher's meat.

THE SMALL COMPOUND SAUCES 29

43— LYONNAISE SAUCE

Finely mince two oz. of onions and brown them slightly in
two oz. of butter. Moisten with one-quarter pint of white wine
and as much vinegar; almost entirely reduce the liquid; add
one and one-half pints of clear half-glaze, and set to cook slowly
for half an hour. Rub the sauce through a tammy.

N.B. — The onion may be left in the sauce or not, according
to the preparation for which it is intended and the taste of the
consumer.

44— MADEIRA SAUCE

Put one and one-half pints of half-glaze into a saut^-pan, and
reduce it on a brisk fire to a stiff consistence. When it reaches
this point, take it off the fire and add one-fifth pint of Madeira
to it, which brings it back to its normal consistence. Rub
through a tammy, and keep it warm without allowing it to
boil.

45— MARROW SAUCE

Follow the proportions as indicated under " Sauce Borde-
laise " (No. 32) for the necessary quantity of this sauce, the
Marrow Sauce being only a variety of the Bordelaise. Finish
it with six oz. per quart of beef marrow, cut into cubes, poached
and well drained, and one teaspoonful of chopped parsley,
scalded for a second. If the sauce is to accompany vegetables,
finish it, away from the fire, with three oz. of butter, and then
add the cubes of marrow and the parsley.

46— PIQNONS SAUCE

Take the necessary amount of Poivrade Sauce prepared
according to Formula No. 49, and let it boil. Now, for one
pint of sauce, prepare an infusion of juniper berries, with one-
quarter pint of water and two oz. of concassed berries; one oz.
of grilled fir-apple kernels, and one oz. of raisins, stoned and
washed, and left to soak in tepid water for about an hour.
Finish the sauce, when dishing up, by adding the infusion
of juniper berries strained through linen, the grilled kernels,
the soaked raisins, and one-eighth pint of Madeira wine.

This sauce is specially suited to joints of venison.

47— PERIQUEUX SAUCE

Prepare a " Sauce Mad^re " as explained in No. 44, and add
to the half-glaze, to be reduced, half its volume of very strong
veal stock, and keep it a little denser than usual. Finish this

30 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

sauce by adding one-sixth pint of truffle essence and tliree oz.
of chopped truffles per quart of Madeira Sauce. It is used for
numerous small entries, timbales, hot pit^s, &c.

48— PIQUANTE SAUCE

Put into a vegetable pan two oz. of minced shallots, one-
quarter pint of vinegar, and as much white wine. Reduce the
liquid by a good half, and add one pint of half-glaze; set the
sauce to boil, and despumate it for half an hour. At the last
moment finish it, away from the fire, with two oz. of gherkins,
one oz. of capers, and a teaspoonful of chervil, parsley, and
tarragon, mixed; all the ingredients to be finely chopped. This
sauce generally accompanies grilled or boiled pork, and cold
meat re-dished and minced which needs spicy flavouring.

49— ORDINARY POIVRADE SAUCE

1. Heat two oz. of butter in a ste'wpan, and insert one lb. of
raw Mirepoix (No. 228). Fry the vegetables until they are well
browned; moisten with one-quarter pint of vinegar and one-half
pint of Marinade (Formula 169); reduce to two-thirds; add one
pint of Espagnole Sauce, and cook for three-quarters of an
hour. Ten minutes before straining the sauce, put in a few
crushed peppercorns. If the pepper were put in the sauce
earlier, it might make it bitter.

2. Pass the sauce through a strainer, pressing the aromatics ;
add a further one-half pint of Marinade, and despumate for
one-quarter of an hour, keeping it simmering the while. Strain
again through tammy, and finish the sauce, when ready for
dishing, with two oz. of butter.

This sauce is suitable for joints marinaded or not.

50— POIVRADE SAUCE FOR VENISON

Fry, with two oz. of butter and two oz. of oil, one lb. of
raw Mirepoix (No. 228) to which are added four lbs. of well-
broken bones and ground-game trimmings. When the whole
is well browned, drain the grease away, and dilute with one
pint of vinegar and one pint of white wine. Reduce this liquid
by three-quarters, then add three quarts of game stock and a
quart of Espagnole Sauce. Boil, cover the saucepan, and put
into a moderate oven, where it should stay for at least three
hours. At the end of this time take out the saucepan and pour
its contents into a fine sieve placed over a tureen ; press the
remains so as to expel all the sauce they hold, and pour the

THE SMALL COMPOUND SAUCES 31

sauce into a tall, thick saucepan. Add enough game stock and
Marinade, mixed in equal parts, to produce three quarts in all
of sauce, and gently reduce the latter while despumating it.
As it diminishes in volume, it should be passed through muslin
into smaller saucepans, and the reduction should be stopped
when only a quart of sauce remains.

N.B. — This sauce, like red-wine sauces, may be served as it
stands. It is brilliant, clear, and perhaps more sightly thus,
but the addition of a certain quantity of butter (four oz. per
quart) makes it perfectly mellow, and admirably completes its
fragrance.

51— PROVEN9ALE SAUCE

Peel, remove the seeds, press and concass twelve medium
tomatoes. Heat in a sautd-pan one-fifth pint of oil, until it
begins to smoke a little; insert the tomatoes seasoned with
pepper and salt ; add a crushed garlic clove, a pinch of powdered
sugar, one teaspoonful of chopped parsley, and allow to melt
gently for half an hour. In reality, true Proven9ale is nothing
but a fine fondue of tomatoes with garlic.

52— ROBERT SAUCE

Finely mince a large onion and put it into a stewpan with
butter. Fry the onion gently and without letting it acquire any
colour. Dilute with one-third pint of white wine, reduce the
latter by one-third, add one pint of half-glaze, and leave to
simmer for twenty minutes. When dishing up, finish the sauce
with one tablespoonful of meat glaze, one teaspoonful of
mustard, and one pinch of powdered sugar. If, when finished,
the sauce has to wait, it should be kept warm in a bain-marie, as
it must not boil again. This sauce — of a spicy flavour — is best
suited to grilled and boiled pork. It may also be used for a
mince of the same meat.

53— ESCOFFIER ROBERTS SAUCE

This sauce may be bought ready-made. It is used either hot
or cold. It is especially suitable for pork, veal, poultry, and
even fish, and is generally used hot with grills after the equi-
valent of its volume of excellent brown stock has been added
to it. It may also be served cold to accompany cold meat.

54— ROUENNAISE SAUCE

Prepare a " Bordelaise " sauce according to Formula No.
32. The diluent of this sauce must be an excellent red wine.
Fqr one pint of sauce, pass four raw ducks' livers through a

32 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

sieve; add the resulting pur^e to the Bordelaise, and heat the
latter for a few minutes in order to poach the liver. Be careful,
however, not to heat the sauce too much nor too long, lest the
liver be cooked. Serve this sauce with duckling h la Rouen-
naise.

55— SALMIS SAUCE

The base of this sauce, which rather resembles the cullis, is
unchangeable. Its diluent only changes according to the kind
of birds or game to be treated, and whether this game is to be
considered ordinary or Lenten.

Cut and gently brown in butter five oz. of Mirepoix (Formula
228). Add the shin detached from the limbs and the chopped
carcase of the bird under treatment, and moisten with one pint
of white wine. Reduce the latter to two-thirds, add one-half
pint of half glaze, and boil gently for three-quarters of an hour.
Pass through a strainer, while pressing upon the carcase and
the aromatics, with the view of extracting their quintessence,
and thin the cullis thus obtained by means of one-half pint of
game stock or mushroom liquor, if the game be Lenten. Now
despumate for about one hour, finally reduce the sauce, bring
it to its proper consistency with a little mushroom liquor and
truffle essence, rub it through tammy, and butter it slightly at
the last moment.

56— TORTUE SAUCE

Boil one-half pint of veal stock, adding a small sprig of sage,
sweet marjoram, rosemary, basil, thyme, and as much bay,
two oz. of mushroom parings, and one oz. of parsley. Cover
and allow to infuse for half an hour. Two minutes before strain-
ing the infusion, add four concassed peppercorns.

After straining through fine linen, add one-half pint of half-
glaze and as much tomato sauce (away from the fire) with four
tablespoonfuls of sherry, a litde truffle essence, and a good pinch
of cayenne.

N.B. — As this sauce must be spicy, the use of cayenne sug-
gests itself, but great caution should be observed, as there must
be no excess of this condiment.

57_VENISON SAUCE

Prepare a Poivrade sauce for game, as explained in No. 50.
Finish this sauce with two tablespoonfuls of red-currant jelly,
previously dissolved, and mixed with five tablespoonfuls of

THE SMALL COMPOUND SAUCES 33

fresh cream per pint of sauce. This addition of cream and red-
currants must be made away from the fire.
Serve this sauce with big ground-game.

Small White and Compound Sauces.

58— AMERICAN SAUCE

This sauce consists of lobster prepared "k I'Am^ricaine "
(see No. 939). As it generally accompanies a fish, the meat of
the lobster or lobsters which have served in its preparation is
sliced and used as the garnish of the fish.

59— ANCHOVY SAUCE

Put into a small stewpan one pint of unbuttered " Normande
Sauce " (No. 99), and finish it, away from the fire, with three
oz. of anchovy butter, and one oz. of anchovy fillets, washed,
well sponged, and cut into small pieces.

60— AURORE SAUCE

Into one-half pint of boiling velout^ put the same quantity
of very red tomato pur^e (No. 29), and mix the two. Let the
sauce boil a little, pass it through a tammy, and finish, away
from the fire, with three oz. of butter.

61— LENTEN AURORE SAUCE

This sauce is made like the preceding one, i.e., with the
same quantities of velout6 and tomato puree, replacing ordinary
velout^ by fish velout6.

63— BEARNAISE SAUCE

Put into a small stewpan one teaspoonful of chopped shallots,
two oz. of chopped tarragon stalks, three oz. of chervil, some
mignonette pepper, a pinch of salt, and four tablespoonfuls of
vinegar. Reduce the vinegar by two-thirds, take off the fire,
let the stewpan cool a little, and add to this reduction the yolks
of five eggs. Now put the stewpan on a low fire and gradually
combine with the yolks six oz. of melted butter. Whisk the
sauce briskly, so ^s to ensure the cooking of the yolks, which
alone, by gradual cooking, effect the leason of the sauce.

When the butter is combined with the sauce, rub the latter
through tammy, and finish it with a teaspoonful of chervil
parings and chopped tarragon leaves. Complete the seasoning
with a suspicion of cayenne. This sauce should not be served
yery hot, as it is really a mayonnaise with butter. It need tjnly

D

34 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

be tepid, for it would probably turn if it were over-heated.
Serve it with grilled, butcher's meat and poultry.

63— BEARNAISE SAUCE WITH MEAT GLAZE,
OTHERWISE VALOIS SAUCE OR FOYOT SAUCE

Prepare a B^arnaise sauce as explained in No. 62. Complete
it with three tablespoonfuls of dissolved pale meat glaze, which
may be added in small quantities at a time. Serve it with
butcher's meat.

64— BEARNAISE TOMATEE SAUCE OR CHORON SAUCE

Proceed in exactly the same way as for B^arnaise No. 62.
When the sauce is made and rubbed through tammy, finish it
with one-third pint of very red tomato pur^e. In this case the
final addition of chervil and tarragon should not be made.

This is proper to " Tournedos Choron," but it may accom-
pany grilled poultry and white, butcher's meat.

6s— BERCY SAUCE

Heat two oz. of chopped shallots. Moisten with one-half
pint of white wine and as much fish fumet, or, when possible,
the same quantity of fish liquor, the latter being, of course,
that of a fish similar to the one the sauce is to accompany.
Reduce to a good third, add one-third pint of velout^, let the
sauce boil some time, and finish it, away from the fire, with
four oz. of butter (added by degrees), a few drops of fish glaze,
half the juice of a lemon, and one oz. of chopped parsley.

Serve with medium-sized poached fish.

66— BUTTER SAUCE

Mix two oz. of sifted flour with two oz. of melted butter.
Dilute with one quart of boiling water, salted to the extent of
one-quarter oz. per quart. Stir briskly to ensure a perfect
leason, and do not allow to boil. Add immediately the yolks
of six eggs mixed with one-quarter pint of cream and the juice
of half a lemon. Rub through a tammy, and finish the sauce
with five oz. of best fresh butter.

Be careful that the sauce does not boil after it has been
thickened.

67— BONNEFOY SAUCE, OR WHITE BORDELAISE SAUCE

Put in a stewpan two oz. of minced shallots and one-half
pint of Graves, Sauterne, or any other excellent white Bor-

THE SMALL COMPOUND SAUCES 35

deaux. Reduce the wine almost entirely, add one-quarter pint
of velout^, let it simmer twenty minutes, and rub it through a
tammy. Finish it, away from the fire, with six oz. of butter
and a little chopped tarragon.

Serve it with grilled fish and grilled white meat.

68— CAPER SAUCE

This is a derivative of the Butter Sauce described under No.
66, and there need only be added two tablespoonfuls of capers
per pint of sauce. It frequently accompanies boiled fish of all
kinds.

69-CARDINAL SAUCE

Boil one pint of Bechamel, to which add one-half pint of fish
fumet and a little truffle essence, and reduce by a quarter.
Finish the sauce, when dishing up, with three tablespoonfuls of
cream and three oz. of very red lobster butter (No. 149).

This sauce is poured over the fish.

70— MUSHROOM SAUCE

If this be intended for poultry, add one-fifth pint of mush-
room liquor and eight oz. of button-mushroom heads turned
or channelled and cooked, to one pint of very stiff Allemande
Sauce.

If it be intended for fish, take one pint of fish velout^,
thickened wfth the yolks of four eggs, and finish it with mush-
room liquor, as above.

The sauce that I suggest for poultry may also be used foi
fish, after adding the necessary quantity of fish fumet.

71— CHATEAUBRIAND SAUCE

Put one oz. of chopped shallots, a sprig of thyme and a bit
of bay, one oz. of mushroom parings, and one-quarter pint of
white wine into a stewpan. Reduce the wine almost entirely,
add one-half pint of veal gravy, and reduce again until the
liquid only measures one-quarter pint. Strain through muslin,
and finish the sauce away from the fire with four oz. of butter
" Mattre d'Hotel " (No. 150), to which may be added a little
chopped tarragon. Serve with grilled fillet of beef, otherwise
" Chdteaubriand."

72— WHITE CHAUD-FROID SAUCE

Boil one pint of velout^ in a stewpan, and add three-quarters
pint of melted white poultry jelly. Put the stewpan on an open

D 2

36 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

fire, reduce the sauce by a third, stirring constantly the while,
and gradually add one-half pint of very fresh cream. When
the sauce has reached the desired degree of consistency rub it
through a tammy, and stir it frequently while it cools, for fear
of a skin forming on its surface, for if this happened it would
have to be strained again. When dishing up, this sauce should
be cold, so that it may properly coat immersed solids and yet
be liquid enough to admit of the latter being easily steeped
into it.

73— ORDINARY CHAUD=FROID SAUCE

Proceed exactly as above, substituting Allemande Sauce for
the velout6, and reducing the quantity of cream to one-quarter
pint. Observe the sam.e precautions while cooling.

74— CHAUD = FROID SAUCE, A L'AURORE

Prepare a white Chaud-Froid (No. 72). The same may be
coloured by the addition of fine red tomato pur^e — more or
less to match the desired shade — or by an infusion of paprika,
according to the use for which it is intended. This last pro-
duct is preferable when not too deep a shade is required.

75— CHAUD = FROID SAUCE, AU VERT=PR6

Add to the velout^ of the white Chaud-Froid sauce, at the
same time as the jelly, an infusion prepared thus : — Boil one-
quarter pint of white wine, and add to it one pinch of chervil
stalks, a similar quantity of tarragon leaves, chives, and parsley
leaves. Cover, allow infusion to proceed away from the fire
for ten minutes, and strain through linen.

Treat the sauce as explained, and finish with spinach-green
(No. 143). The shade of the sauce must not be too pronounced,
but must remain a pale green. The colouring principle must
therefore be added with caution and in small quantities, until
the correct shade is obtained. Use this sauce for Chaud-froids
of fowl, particularly that kind distinguished as " Printanier ."

76— LENT CHAUD=FROID SAUCE

Proceed as for white Chaud-Froid, using the same quantities,
and taking note of the following modifications : —

1. Substitute fish velout^ for ordinary velout^.

2. Substitute white fish jelly for poultry jelly.

Remarks. — I have adopted the use of this ordinary Chaud-
Froid sauce for the glazing of fillets and escalopes of fish and
shell-fish, instead of cleared Mayonnaise, formerly used, which

THE SMALL COMPOUND SAUCES 27

had certain inconveniences — not the least being the oozing away
of the oil under the shrinkage of the gelatine. This difficulty
does not obtain in the ordinary Chaud-Froid, the definite and
pronounced flavour of which is better than that of tlie cleared
Mayonnaise.

77— "ESCOFFIER" CHERRY SAUCE

This sauce may be bought ready-made. Like the Roberts
Sauce, it can be served hot or cold. It is an excellent adjunct
to venison, and even to small ground-game. Saddle of venison
with this sauce constitutes one of the greatest dainties that an
epicure could desire.

78— CH5VRY SAUCE

In one-half pint of boiling poultry stock put a large pinch of
chervil pluches, tarragon and parsley leaves, a head of young
pimpernel (the qualification here is very important, for this
aromatic plant grows bitter as it matures), and a good pinch of
chives. Cover up, and let infusion proceed for ten to twelve
minutes; then add the liquid (strained through linen) to one pint
of velout6. Boil, reduce by a quarter, and complete it with
two oz. of Green Butter (No. 143). Chivry Sauce is admirably
suited to boiled or poached poultry.

79-CREAM SAUCE

Boil one pint of Bechamel Sauce, and add one-quarter pint of
cream to it. Reduce on an open fire until the sauce has become
very thick; then pass through tammy. Bring to its normal
degree of consistency by gradually adding, away from the fire,
one-quarter pint of very fresh cream and a few drops of lemon-
juice. Serve this sauce with boiled fish, poultry, eggs, and
various vegetables.

80— SHRIRIP SAUCE

Boil one pint of fish veloute or, failing this, Bechamel sauce,
and add to it one-quarter pint of cream and one-quarter pint
of very clear fish fumet. Reduce to one pint, and finish
the sauce, away from the fire, with two oz. of Shrimp Butter
(No. 145) and two oz. of shelled shrimps' tails.

81— CURRY SAUCE

Slightly brown the following vegetables in butter: — Twelve
oz. of minced onions, one oz. of parsley roots, four oz. of minced
celery, a small sprig of thyme, a bit of bay, and a little mace.
Sprinkle with two oz. of flour and a teaspoonful of curry pepper.

38 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

Cook the flour for some minutes without letting it acquire any
colour, and dilute with one and one-half pints of white stock.
Boil, cook gently for three-quarters of an hour, and rub through
a tammy. Now heat the sauce, remove its grease, and keep it
in the bain-viarie. Serve this sauce with fish, shell-fish, poultry,
and various egg-preparations.

N.B. — This sauce is sometimes flavoured with cocoa-nut milk
in the proportion of one-quarter of the diluent.

82— DIPLOMATE SAUCE

Take one pint of Normande Sauce, prepared according to
No. 99, and finish it with two oz. of lobster butter and three
tablespoonfuls of lobster meat, and truffles cut into small, regular
tubes.

83— HERB SAUCE

Prepare one pint of white-wine sauce (No. in). Finish it
away from the fire with three oz. of shallot butter, a tablespoon-
ful of parsley, chervil, tarragon, and chives, chopped and mixed.
Serve this sauce with boiled or poached fish.

84— GOOSEBERRY SAUCE

Prepare one pint of butter sauce. Formula No. 66. Mean-
while put one lb. of green gooseberries into a small copper
saucepan containing boiling water. Boil for five minutes, then
drain the gooseberries, and put them in a little stewpan with
one-half pint of white wine and three oz. of powdered sugar.
Gently cook the gooseberries, rub them through a tammy, and
add the resulting pulp to the butter sauce. This sauce is excel-
lent with grilled mackerel and the poached fillets of that fish.

85-HUNQARIAN SAUCE

Gently fry in butter, without colouring, two tablespoonfuls
of chopped onions seasoned with table-salt and half a teaspoon-
ful of paprika. Moisten with one-quarter pint of white wine,
add a small faggot, reduce the wine by two-thirds, and remove
the herbs.

Finish with one pint of ordinary or Lenten Velout^, accord-
ing to the use for which the sauce is intended, and boil moder-
ately for five minutes. Then rub the sauce through a tammy,
and complete it with two oz. of butter. Remember this sauce
should be of a tender, pink shade, which it must owe to the
paprika alone.

THE SMALL COMPOUND SAUCES 39

It forms an ideal accompaniment to choice morsels of lamb
and veal, eggs, poultry, and fish.

86— OYSTER SAUCE

Take one pint of Normande Sauce, finish it as directed in
that recipe, and complete it with one-quarter pint of reduced
oyster liquor, strained through linen, and twelve poached and
trimmed oysters.

87— IVORY SAUCE, OR ALBUFERA SAUCE

Take the necessary quantity of Supreme Sauce, prepared
as explained in No. 105a. Add to this four tablespoonfuls of
dissolved, pale, meat glaze per quart of sauce, in order to lend
the latter that ivory-white tint which characterises it. Serve
this sauce chiefly with poultry and poached sweet-bread.

88— JOINVILLE SAUCE

Prepare one pint of Normande Sauce (No. 99), as given in
the first part of its formula, and complete it with two oz. of
shrimp butter and two oz. of crayfish butter. If this sauce is
to accompany a fish k la Joinville, which includes a special
garnish, it is served as it stands. If it is served with a large,
boiled, ungarnished fish, one oz. of very black truffles cut
Julienne-fashion should be added. As may be seen, Joinville
Sauce differs from similar preparations in the final operation
where crayfish and shrimp butter are combined.

89— MALTESE SAUCE

To the Hollandaise Sauce, given under No. 30, add, when,
dishing up, the juice of two blood oranges (these late-season
oranges being especially suitable for this sauce) and half a
coffeespoonful of grated orange-rind.

Maltese Sauce is the finest for asparagus.

90— MARINIERE SAUCE

Take the necessary quantity of Bercy Sauce (No. 65), and
add, per pint of sauce, one-quarter pint of mussel liquor and a
leason composed of the yolks of three eggs.

Serve this with small poached fish and more particularly with
mussels.

91— MORN AY SAUCE

Boil one pint of Bdchamel Sauce with one-quarter pint of
the fumet of that fish which is to constitute the dish. Reduce

40 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

by a good quarter, and add two oz. of Gruy^re and two oz. of
grated Parmesan.

Put the sauce on the fire again for a few minutes, and ensure
the melting of the cheese by stirring with a small whisk. Finish
the sauce away from the fire with two oz. of butter added by
degrees.

92— MOUSSELINE SAUCE

To a Hollandaise Sauce, prepared as explained (No. 30), add,
just before dishing up, one-half pint of stiffly-whipped cream
per pint of sauce.

93— MOUSSEUSE SAUCE

Scald and wipe a small vegetable-pan, and put into it one-
half lb. of stifHy-mamed butter, properly softened. Season this
butter with table-salt and a few drops of lemon-juice, and whisk
it while gradually adding one-third pint of cold water. Finish
with two tablespoonfuls of very firm, whipped cream. This pre-
paration, though classified as a sauce, is really a compound
butter, which is served with boiled fish. The heat of the fish
alone suffices to melt it, and its appearance is infinitely more
agreeable than that of plain, melted butter.

94— MUSTARD SAUCE

Take the necessary quantity of butter sauce and complete it,
away from the fire, with one tablespoonful of mustard per pint
of sauce.

N.B. — If the sauce has to wait, it must be kept in a bain-
marie, for it should not on any account boil. It is served with
certain smafl grilled fish, especially fresh herrings.

95— NANTUA SAUCE

Boil one pint of Bechamel Sauce, add one-half pint of cream,
and reduce by a third. Rub it through^a tammy, and finish it
with a further addition of two tablespoonfuls of cream, three oz.
of very fine crayfish butter, and one tablespoonful of small,
shelled crayfishes' tails.

96— NEWBURQ SAUCE

First Method {with Raw Lobsters). — Divide a two lb. lobster
into four parts. Remove its creamy parts, pound them finelv
with two oz. of butter, and put them aside.

THE SMALL COMPOUND SAUCES 41

Heat in a saut^pan one and one-half oz. of butter and as
much oil, and insert the pieces of lobster, well seasoned with
salt and cayenne. Fry until the pieces assume a fine, red colour ;
entirely drain away the butter, and add two tablespoonfuls of
burnt brandy and one-third pint of Marsala or old Sherry.

Reduce the wine by two-thirds, and wet the lobster with one-
third pint of cream and one-half pint of fish fumet. Now add
a faggot, cover the saut^pan, and gently cook for twenty-
five minutes. Then drain the lobster on a sieve, remove
the meat and cut it into cubes, and finish the sauce by adding
the creamy portions put aside from the first. Boil so as to
ensure the cooking of these latter portions; add the meat, cut
into cubes, and verify the seasoning.

N.B. — The addition of the meat to the sauce is optional;
instead of cutting it into cubes it may be stewed and displayed
on the fish constituting the dish.

97— SECOND METHOD (WITH COOKED LOBSTER)

The lobster having been cooked in a Court-bouillon, shell
the tail and slice it up. Arrange these slices in a saut^pan liber-
ally buttered at the bottom ; season them strongly with salt and
cayenne, and heat them on both sides so as to effect the red-
dening of the skin. Immerse, so as to cover, in a good Sherry,
and almost entirely reduce same.

When dishing up, pour on to the slices a leason composed
of one-third pint of fresh cream and the yolks of two eggs.
Gently stir, away from the fire, and roll the saucepan about until
the leason is completed.

Originally, these two sauces, like the American, were ex-
clusively composed of, and served with, lobster. They were
one with the two very excellent preparations of lobster which
bear their name. In its two forms lobster may only be served
at lunch, many people with delicate stomachs being unable to
digest it at night. To obviate this serious difficulty, I have
made it a practice to serve lobster sauce with fillets or Mous-
selines of sole, adding the lobster as a garnish only. And this
innovation proved most welcome to the public.

By using such condiments as curry and paprika, excellent
varieties of this sauce may be obtained, which are particularly
suited to sole and other white Lenten fish. In either of these
cases it is well to add a little rice " k I'lndienne " to the fish.

42 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

98— NOISETTE SAUCE

Prepare a Hollandaise Sauce according to the recipe under
No. 30. Add two oz. of hazel-nut butter at the last moment.
Serve this with salmon, trout, and all boiled fish in general.

99— NORMANDE SAUCE

Put in a saut^pan one pint of fish veloute, three tablespoon-
fuls of mushroom liquor, as much oyster liquor, and twice as
much sole fumet, the yolks of three eggs, a few drops of lemon-
juice, and one-quarter pint of cream. Reduce by a good third
on an open fire, season with a little cayenne, rub through a
tammy, and finish with two oz. of butter and four tablespoonfuls
of good cream.

This sauce is proper to fillet of sole " k la Normande," but
it is also frequently used as the base of other small sauces.

100— ORIENTAL SAUCE

Take one pint of American sauce, season with curry, and
reduce to a third. Then add, away from the fire, one-quarter
pint of cream per pint of sauce.

Serve this sauce in the same way as American Sauce.

loi— POULETTE SAUCE

Boil for a few minutes one pint of Sauce Allemande, and
add six tablespoonfuls of mushroom liquor. Finish, away from
the fire, with two oz. of butter, a few drops of lemon-juice, and
one teaspoonful of chopped parsley. Use this sauce with
certain vegetables, but more generally with sheep's trotters.

102-RAVIQOTTE SAUCE

Reduce by half, one-quarter pint of white wine with half
as much vinegar. Add one pint of ordinary velout^, boil gently
for a few minutes, and finish with one and one-half oz. of shallot
butter and one teaspoonful of chervil, tarragon, and chopped
chives. This sauce accompanies boiled poultry and certain
white " abats."

103— REGENCY SAUCE

If this sauce is to garnish poultry, boil one pint of Alle-
mande Sauce with six tablespoonfuls of mushroom essence and
two tablespoonfuls of truffle essence. Finish with four table-
spoonfuls of poultry glaze.

THE SMALL COMPOUND SAUCES 43

If it is to garnish fish, substitute for the Allemande Sauce
some fish velout^ thickened with egg-yolks and the essences of
mushroom and truffle as above. Complete with some fish
essence.

104— SOUBISE SAUCE

Stew in butter two lbs. of finely-minced onions, scalded for
three minutes and well dried. This stewing of the onions in
butter increases their flavour. Now add one-half pint of thick-
ened Bechamel ; season with salt and a teaspoonful of powdered
sugar. Cook gently for half an hour, rub through a tammy.
and complete the sauce with some tablespoonfuls of cream and
two oz. of butter.

105— SOUBISE SAUCE WITH RICE

The same quantity as above of minced onions, scalded and
well drained. Garnish the bottom and the sides of a tall,
medium stewpan with some thin rashers of fat bacon. Insert
the onions, together with one-quarter lb. of Carolina rice, one
pint of white consomm^, a large pinch of powdered sugar, and
the necessary salt. Cook gently in the front of the oven for
three-quarters of an hour. Then pound the onions and rice in
a mortar, rub the resulting pur^e through a tammy, and finish
with cream and butter as in the preceding case.

N.B. — This sauce, being more consistent than the former, is
used as a garnish just as often as a sauce.

106— SOUBISE SAUCE TOMATEE

Prepare a soubise in accordance with the first of the two
above formulae, and add to it one-third of its volume of very
red tomato pur^e.

Remarks.

1. The Soubise is rather a cullis than a sauce; i.e., its con-
sistence must be greater than that of a sauce.

2. The admixture of B6chamel in Soubise is preferable to
that of rice, seeing that it makes it smoother. If, in certain
cases, rice is used as a cohering element, it is in order to give
the Soubise more stiffness.

3. In accordance with the uses to which it may be put, the
Soubise Tomatde may be finally seasoned either with curry or
paprika.

44 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

io6a-SUPREME SAUCE

The salient characteristics of Supreme Sauce are its perfect
whiteness and consummate delicacy. It is generally prepared
in small quantities only.

Preparation. — Put one and one-half pints of very clear
poultry stock and one-quarter pint of mushroom cooking liquor
into a saut^pan. Reduce to two-thirds; add one pint of
"poultry velout^ " ; reduce on an open fire, stirring with the
spatula the while, and combine one-half pint of excellent cream
with the sauce, this last ingredient being added little by little.

When the sauce has reached the desired consistence, strain
it through a sieve, and add another one-quarter pint of cream
and two oz. of best butter. Stir with a spoon, from time to
time, or keep the pan well covered.

107-VENETIAN SAUCE

Put into a stewpan one tablespoonful of chopped shallots,
one tablespoonful of chervil, and one-quarter pint of white wine
and tarragon vinegar, mixed in equal quantities. Reduce the
vinegar by two-thirds; add one pint of white wine sauce (No.
Ill); boil for a few minutes; rub through a tammy, and finish
the sauce with a sufficient quantity of Herb Juice (No. 183) and
one teaspoonful of chopped chervil and tarragon. This sauce
accompanies various fish.

I08-VILLER0Y SAUCE

Put into a sautepan one pint of Allemande Sauce to which
have been added two tablespoonfuls of truffle essence and as
much ham essence.

Reduce on an open fire and constantly stir until the sauce is
sufficiently stiff to coat immersed solids thickly.

109— V5LLEROY SOUBISEE SAUCE

Put into a sautepan two-thirds pint of Allemande Sauce and
one-third pint of Soubise pur^e (Formula 105). Reduce as
in the preceding case, as the uses to which this is put are the
same. Now, according to the circumstances and the nature
of the SQlid it is intended for, a few teaspoonfuls of very
black, chopped truffles may be added to this sauce.

no— VILLEROY TOMATEE SAUCE

Prepare the sauce as explained under No. 108, and add to
it the third of its volume of very fine tomato puree. Reduce in
the same way.

THE SMALL COMPOUND SAUCES 45

Remarks. — i. Villeroy sauce, of whatsoever kind, is solely

used for the coating of preparations said to be " ^ la Villeroy."

2. The Villeroy Tomat^e may be finally seasoned with curry

or paprika, according to the preparation for which it is intended.

Ill— WHITE WINE SAUCE

The three following methods are employed in making it : —

1 . Add one-quarter pint of fish fumet to one pint of thickened
Velout^, and reduce by half. Finish the sauce, away from the
fire, with four oz. of butter. Thus prepared, this white wine
sauce is suitable for glazed fish.

2. Almost entirely reduce one-quarter pint of fish /wmei. To
this reduction add the yolks of four eggs, mixing them well in
it, and follow with one lb. of butter, added by degrees, paying
heed to the precautions indicated under sauce Hollandaise No.
30.

3. Put the yolks of five eggs into a small stewpan and mix
them with one tablespoonful of cold fish-stock. Put the stew-
pan in a bain-marie and finish the sauce with one lb. of butter,
meanwhile adding from time to time, and in small quantities,
six tablespoonfuls of excellent fish fumet. The procedure in this
sauce is, in short, exactly that of the Hollandaise, with this
distinction, that here fish fumet takes the place of the water.

Hot English Sauces

1 12- APPLE SAUCE

Quarter, peel, core, and chop two lbs. of medium-sized
apples; place these in a stewpan with one tablespoonful of
powdered sugar, a bit of cinnamon, and a few tablespoonfuls
of water. Cook the whole gently with lid on, and smooth the
pur^e with a whisk when dishing up.

Serve this sauce lukewarm with duck, goose, roast hare, &c.

113— BREAD SAUCE

Boil one pint of milk, and add three oz. of fresh, white
bread-crumb, a little salt, a small onion with a clove stuck in
it, and one oz. of butter. Cook gently for about a quarter of
an hour, remove the onion, smooth the sauce with a whisk, and
finish it with a few tablespoonfuls of cream.

This sauce is served with roast fowl and roast feathered
game.

46 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

114— CELERY SAUCE

Clean six stalks of celery (only use the hearts), put them in
a sautepan, wholly immerse in consomm6, add a faggot
and one onion with a clove stuck in it, and cook gently. Drain
the celery, pound it in a mortar, then rub it through a tammy
and put the pur^e in a stewpan. Now thin the purde with an
equal quantity of cream sauce and a little reduced celery liquor.
Heat it moderately, and, if it has to wait, put it in a bain-marie.

This sauce is suited to boiled or braised poultry. It is
excellent, and has been adopted in French cookery.

115— CRANBERRY SAUCE

Cook one pint of cranberries with one quart of water in a
stewpan, and cover the stewpan. When the berries are cooked
drain them in a fine sieve through which they are strained. To
the puree thus obtained add the necessary quantity of their
cooking liquor, so as to make a somewhat thick sauce. Sugar
should be added according to the taste of the consumer.

This sauce is mostly served with roast turkey. It is to be
bought ready-made, and, if this kind be used, it need only be
heated with a little water.

116— FENNEL SAUCE

Take one pint of butter sauce (No. 66) and finish it with two
tablespoonfuls of chopped fennel, scalded for a few seconds.
This is principally used with mackerel.

117— EGG SAUCE WITH MELTED BUTTER

Dissolve one-quarter pound of butter, and add to it the
necessary salt, a little pepper, half the juice of a lemon, and
three hard-boiled eggs (hot and cut into large cubes); also a
teaspoonful of chopped and scalded parsley.

118— SCOTCH EGG SAUCE

Make a white roux with one and one-half oz. of butter and
one oz. of flour. Mix in one pint of boiling milk, season with
salt, white pepper, and nutmeg, and boil gently for ten minutes.
Then add three hot hard-boiled eggs, cut into cubes (the whites
and the yolks).

This sauce usually accompanies boiled fish, especially fresh
haddocks and fresh and salted cod.

THE SMALL COMPOUND SAUCES 47

119— HORSE-RADISH OR ALBERT SAUCE

Rasp five oz. of horse-radish and place them in a stewpan
with one-quarter pint of white consomm^. Boil gently for
twenty minutes and add a good one-half pint of butter sauce,
as much cream, and one-half oz, of bread-crumb ; thicken by
reducing on a brisk fire and rub through tammy. Then thicken
with the yolks of two eggs, and complete the seasoning with a
pinch of salt and pepper, and a teaspoonful of mustard dis-
solved in a tablespoonful of vinegar.

Serve this sauce with braised or roast beef — especially fillets.

119a— PARSLEY SAUCE

This is the Butter Sauce (No. 66), to which is added, per pint,
a heaped tablespoonful of freshly-chopped parsley.

120— REFORM SAUCE

Put into a small stewpan and boil one pint of half-glaze
sauce and one-half pint of ordinary Poivrade sauce. Complete
with a garnish composed of one-half oz. of gherkins, one-half
oz. of the hard-boiled white of an egg, one oz. of salted tongue,
one oz. of truffles, and one oz. of mushrooms. All these to be
cut Julienne-fashion and short.

This sauce is for mutton cutlets when these are " k la
Reform."

CHAPTER IV

COLD SAUCES AND COMPOUND BUTTERS

121— AIOLI SAUCE, OR PROVENCE BUTTER

Pound one oz. of garlic cloves as finely as possible in a
mortar, and add the yolk of one raw egg, a pinch of salt, and
one-half pint of oil, letting the latter gradually fall in a thread
and wielding the pestle meanwhile, so as to effect a complete
amalgamation. Add a few drops of lemon juice and cold water
to the sauce as it thickens, these being to avoid its turning.

Should it decompose while in the process of making or when
made, the only thing to be done is to begin it again with the
yolk of an egg.

I22~ANDAL0USE SAUCE

Take the required quantity of Mayonnaise sauce (No. 126)
and add to it the quarter of its volume of very red and con-
centrated tomato pur6e, and finally add two oz. of capsicum cut
finely. Julienne-fashion, per pint of sauce.

123— BOHEMIAN SAUCE

Put in a bowl one-quarter pint of cold Bechamel, the yolks
of four eggs, a little table salt and white pepper. Add a quart
of oil and three tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, proceeding
as for the Mayonnaise.

Finish the sauce with a tablespoonful of mustard.

i24~QEN0A SAUCE

Pound in a mortar, and make into a smooth, fine paste, one
oz. of pistachios and one oz. of fir-apple kernels, or, if these are
not available, one oz. of sweet almonds; add one-half table-
spoonful of cold Bechamel. Put this paste into a bowl, add
the yolks of six eggs, a little salt and pepper, and finish the
sauce with one quart of oil, the juice of two lemons, and proceed
as for the Mayonnaise.

COLD SAUCES AND COMPOUND BUTTERS 49

Complete with three tablespoonfuls of pur^e of herbs, pre-
pared with equal quantities of chervil, parsley, tarragon, and
fresh pimpernel, scalded for one minute. Cool quickly, press
so as to expel the water, and pass through a fine sieve.

Serve this sauce with cold fish.

125 -QRIBICHE SAUCE

Crush in a basin the yolks of six hard-boiled eggs, and
work them into a smooth paste, together with a large tablespoon-
ful of French mustard, the necessary salt, a little pepper, and
make up the sauce with one pint of oil. Complete with one
dessertspoonful of parsley, chervil, and tarragon (chopped and
mixed), as many capers and gherkins, evenly mixed, and the
hard-boiled whites of three eggs, cut short, Julienne-fashion.

This sauce is chiefly used with cold fish.

126-- MAYONNAISE SAUCE

Put in a basin the yolks of six raw eggs, after having
removed the cores. Season them with one-half oz. of table-
salt and a little cayenne pepper. Gradually pour one-fifth
pint of vinegar on the yolks while whisking them briskly.
When the vinegar is absorbed add one quart of oil, letting the
latter trickle down in a thread, constantly stirring the sauce
meanwhile. The sauce is finished by the addition of the juice
of a lemon and three tablespoonfuls of boiling water — the
purpose of the latter being to ensure the coherence of the
sauce and to prevent its turning.

Mayonnaise prepared in this way is rather liquid, but it
need only be left to rest a few hours in order to thicken con-
siderably. Unless it be exposed to too low a temperature, the
Mayonnaise, prepared as above, never turns, and may be kept
for several days without the fear of anything happening to it.
Merely cover it to keep the dust away.

Remarks. — In the matter of sauces there exist endless preju-
dices, which I must attempt to refute : —

1. If the sauce forms badly, or not at all, the reason is that
the oil has been added too rapidly at first, before the addition
of the vinegar, and that its assimilation by the yolks has not
operated normally.

2. It is quite an error to suppose that it is necessary to
work over ice or in a cold room. Cold is rather deleterious to
the Mayonnaise, and is invariably the cause of this sauce turn-
ing in winter. In the cold season the oil should be slightly

E

50 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

warmed, or, at least, kept at the temperature of the kitchen,
though it is best to make it in a moderately warm place.

3. It is a further error to suppose that the seasoning inter-
feres with the making of the sauce, for salt, in solution, rather
provokes the cohering force of the yolks.

Causes of the Disintegration of the Mayonnaise : —

1. The too rapid addition of the oil at the start.

2. The use of congealed, or too cold, an oil.

3. Excess of oil in proportion to the number of yolks, the
assimilating power of an egg being limited to two and one-half
oz. of oil (if the sauce be made some time in advance), and three
oz. if it is to be used immediately.

Means of Bringing Turned Mayonnaise Back to its Normal
State. — Put the yolk of an egg into a basin with a few drops
of vinegar, and mix the turned Mayonnaise in it, little by
little. If it be a matter of only a small quantity of Mayonnaise,
one-half a coffeespoonful of mustard can take the place of the
egg-yolk. Finally, with regard to acid seasoning, a whiter
sauce is obtained by the use of lemon juice instead of vinegar.

127— CLEARED MAYONNAISE SAUCE

Take the necessary quantity of Mayonnaise and gradually
add to it, per one and one-half pints of the sauce, one-half pint
of cold and rather firm melting aspic jelly — Lenten or ordinary,
according to the nature of the products for which the sauce is
intended.

Remarks. — It is this very Mayonnaise, formerly used almost
exclusively for coating entries and cold relevees of fish, filleted
fish, escalopes of common and spiny-lobster, &c., which I
have allowed the Lenten Chaud-froid (see remarks No. 76) to
supersede.

138— WHISKED MAYONNAISE

Put into a copper basin or other bowl three-quarters pint of
melted jelly, two-thirds pint of Mayonnaise, one tablespoonful
of tarragon vinegar, and as much rasped and finely-chopped
horse-radish. Mix up the whole, place the utensil on ice, and
whisk gently until the contents get very frothy. Stop whisking
as soon as the sauce begins to solidify, for it must remain almost
fluid so as to enable it to mix with the products for which it
is intended.

This sauce is used principally for vegetable salads.

COLD SAUCES AND COMPOUND BUTTERS 51

129— RAVIQOTE SAUCE, OR VINAIGRETTE

Put into a bowl one pint of oil, one-third pint of vinegar,
a little salt and pepper, two oz. of small capers, three table-
spoonfuls of fine herbs, comprising soine very finely chopped
onion, as much parsley, and half as much chervil, tarragon, and
chives. Mix thoroughly. The Ravigote accompanies calf's
head or foot, sheep's trotters, &c.

Two or three tablespoonfuls of the liquor with which its
accompanying solids have been cooked, i.e., calf's head or
sheep's trotters liquor, &c., are often added to this sauce when
dishing up.

130— REMOULADE SAUCE

To one pint of Mayonnaise add one large tablespoonful of
mustard, another of gherkins, and yet another of chopped and
pressed capers, one tablespoonful of fine herbs, parsley, chervil,
and tarragon, all chopped and mixed, and a coffeespoonful of
anchovy essence.

This sauce accompanies cold meat and poultry, and, more
particularly, common and spiny lobster.

131— GREEN SAUCE

Take the necessary quantity of thick Mayonnaise and spicy
seasoning, and add to these, per pint of sauce, one-third pint
of herb juice, prepared as indicated hereafter (No. 132).

This is suitable for cold fish and shell fish.

132— VINCENT SAUCE

Prepare and carefully wash the following herbs : — One oz.
each of parsley, chervil, tarragon, chives, sorrel-leaves, and
fresh pimpernel, two oz. of water-cress and two oz. of spinach.
Put all these herbs into a copper bowl containing salted, boiling
water. Boil for two minutes only; then drain the herbs in
a sieve and immerse them in a basin of fresh water. When
they are cold they are once more drained until quite dry ; then
they must be finely pounded with the yolks of eight hard-boiled
eggs. Rub the pur^e thus obtained through a sieve first, then
through tammy, add one pint of very stiff Mayonnaise to it,
and finish the sauce with a dessertspoonful of Worcestershire
sauce.

52 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

Cold English Sauces

133— CAMBRIDGE SAUCE

Pound together the yolks of six hard-boiled eggs, the washed
and dried fillets of four anchovies, a teaspoonful of capers, a
dessertspoonful of chervil, tarragon, and chives, mixed. When
the whole forms a fine paste, add one tablespoonful of mustard,
one-fifth pint of oil, one tablespoonful of vinegar, and proceed
as for a Mayonnaise. Season with a little cayenne ; rub
through tammy, applying pressure with a spoon, and put
the sauce in a bowl. Stir it awhile with a whisk to smooth it,
and finish with one teaspoonful of chopped parsley.

It is suited to cold meats in general ; in fact, it is an
Anglicised version of Vincent Sauce.

134— CUMBERLAND SAUCE

Dissolve four tablespoonfuls of red-currant jelly, to which
are added one-fifth pint of port wine, one teaspoonful of
finely-chopped shallots, scalded for a few seconds and pressed,
one teaspoonful of small pieces of orange rind and as much
lemon rind (cut finely. Julienne-fashion, scalded for two
minutes, well-drained, and cooled), the juice of an orange and
that of half a lemon, one teaspoonful of mustard, a little
cayenne pepper, and as much powdered ginger. Mix the whole
well.

Serve this sauce with cold venison.

135-QLOUCESTER SAUCE

Take one pint of very thick Mayonnaise and complete it
with one-fifth pint of sour cream with the juice of a lemon
added, and combine with the Mayonnaise by degrees ; one tea-
spoonful of chopped fennel and as much Worcester sauce.

Serve this with all cold meats.

136— MINT SAUCE

Cut finely. Julienne-fashion, or chop, two oz. of mint leaves.
Put these in a bowl with a little less than one oz. of white
cassonade or castor sugar, one-quarter pint of fresh vinegar,
and four tablespoonfuls of water.

Special sauce for hot or cold Iamb.

COLD SAUCES AND COMPOUND BUTTERS 53

137— OXFORD SAUCE

Make a Cumberland sauce according to No. 134, with this
difference : that the Julienne of orange and lemon rinds should
be replaced by rasped or finely-chopped rinds, and that the
quantities of same should be less, i.e., two-thirds of a tea-
spoonful of each.

138— HORSE-RADISH SAUCE

Dilute one tablespoonful of mustard with two tablespoonfuls
of vinegar in a basin, and add one lb. of finely-rasped horse-
radish, two oz. of powdered sugar, a little salt, one pint of
cream, and one lb. of bread-crumb steeped in milk and pressed.
Serve this sauce very cold.

It accompanies boiled and roast joints of beef.

Compound Butters for Grills and for the Completion of

Sauces

With the exception of those of the shell-fish order, the butters,
whose formuL-E I am about to give, are not greatly used in
kitchens. Nevertheless, in some cases, as, for instance, in accen-
tuating the savour of sauces, they answer a real and useful pur-
pose, and I therefore recommend them, since they enable one to
give a flavour to the derivatives of the Velout6 and Bechamel
sauces which these could not acquire by any other means.

With regard to shell-fish butters, and particularly those of the
common and spiny lobster and the crayfish, experience has
shown that when they are prepared with heat (that is to say, by
melting in a bain-marie a quantity of butter which has been
previously pounded with shell-fish remains and afterwards
strained through muslin into a basin of iced-water where it has
solidified) they are of a finer colour than the other kind and
quite free from shell particles. Biit the heat, besides dissipat-
ing a large proportion of their delicacy, involves consider-
able risk, for the slightest neglect gives the above preparation
quite a disagreeable taste. To obviate these difficulties I have
adopted a system of two distinct butters, one which is exclusively
colorific and prepared with heat, and the other which is prepared
with all the creamy parts, the trimmings and the remains of com-
mon and spiny lobsters, without the shells, pounded with the re-
quired quantity of fresh butter and passed through a sieve. The
latter is used to complete sauces, particularly those with a
Bechamel base to which it lends a perfect savour.

I follow the same procedure with shrimp and crayfish butters,

54 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

sometimes substituting for the butter good cream, which, I find,
absorbs the aromatic principles perhaps better than the former.
With the above method it is advisable to pass the butter or the
cream through a very fine sieve first and afterwards through
tammy, so as to avoid small particles of the pounded shell being
present in the sauce.

139— BERCY BUTTER

Put into a small stewpan one-quarter pint of white wine and
one oz. of finely-chopped shallots, scalded a moment. Reduce
the wine by one-half, and add one-half lb. of butter softened into
a cream; one teaspoonful of chopped parsley, two oz. of beef
marrow cut into cubes, poached in slightly salted water and well
drained, the necessary table-salt, and, when dishing up, a little
ground pepper and a few drops of lemon-juice.

This butter must not be completely melted, and it is prin-
cipally served with grilled beef.

140— CHIVRY OR RAVIQOTE BUTTER

Put into a small saucepan of salted, boiling water six oz. of
chervil, parsley, tarragon, fresh pimpernel, and chives, in equal
quantities, and two oz. of chopped shallots. Boil quickly for
two minutes, drain, cool in cold water, press in a towel to com-
pletely remove the water, and pound in a mortar. Now add
one-half lb. of half-melted butter, mix well with the pur^e of
herbs, and pass through tammy.

This butter is used to complete Chivry sauce and other sauces
that contain herb juices, such as the Venetian, &c.

140a— CHATEAUBRIAND BUTTER

Reduce by two-thirds four-fifths pint of white wine contain-
ing four chopped shallots, fragments of thyme and bay, and four
oz. of mushroom parings. Add four-fifths pint of veal gravy,
reduce the whole to half, rub it through tammy, and finish it
away from the fire with eight oz. of Maitre d' Hotel butter (No.
150) and half a tablespoonful of chopped tarragon.

141— COLBERT BUTTER

Take one lb. of Maitre d'Hotel butter (No. 150) and add six
tablespoonfuls of dissolved, pale meat glaze and one teaspoonful
of chopped tarragon.

Serve this sauce with fish prepared a la Colbert.

COLD SAUCES AND COMPOUND BUTTERS 55

142— RED COLOURING BUTTER

Put on to a dish any available remains of shell-fish after
having thoroughly emptied and well dried them in the oven.
Pound them until they form a fine powder, and add their weight
of butter.

Put the whole into a saucepan and melt in a bain-marie, stir-
ring frequently the while. When the butter is quite clarified
strain it through muslin, twisting the laFter over a tureen of iced-
water in which the strained butter solidifies. Put the congealed
butter in a towel, press it heavily so as to expel the water, and
keep cool in a small bowl.

Remarks. — A very fine and decided red colour is obtained by
using paprika as a condiment for sauces intended for poultry and
certain butcher's meats, in accordance with the procedure I re-
commend for the Hongroise. But only the very best quality
should be used — that which is mild and at the same time pro-
duces a nice pink colour without entailing any excess of the
condiment. Among the various kinds of paprika on the market
I can highly recommend that of Messrs. Kotangi, which I have
invariably found satisfactory.

143— GREEN COLOURING BUTTER

Peel, wash, -and thoroughly shake (so as to get rid of every
drop of water) two lbs. of spinach. Pound it raw and then press
it in a strong towel, twisting the latter so as to extract all the
vegetable juice. Pour this juice into a saut^pan, let it coagu-
late in a bain-marie, and pour it on to a serviette stretched over
a bowl in order to drain away the water. Collect the remains
of the colouring substance on the serviette, making use of a
palette-knife for the purpose, and put these into a mortar ; mix
with half their weight of butter, strain through a sieve or tammy,
and put aside to cool. This green butter should in all cases take
the place of the liquid green found on the market.

144- VARIOUS CULLISES

Finely pound shrimp and crayfish shells, and combine with
these the available creamy parts and spawn of the common and
spiny lobsters; add one-quarter pint of rich cream per lb. of the
above remains, and strain, first through a fine sieve and then
through tammy. This cullis is prepared just in time for dishing
up, and serves as a refining principle in certain fish sauces.

56 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

145— SHRIMP BUTTER

Finely pound any available shrimp remains, add to these
their weight of butter, and strain through tammy. Place in a
bowl and put aside in the cool.

146— SHALLOT BUTTER

Put eight oz. of roughly minced shallots in the corner of a
clean towel, and wash them quickly in boiling water. Cool, and
press them heavily. Then pound them finely with their own
weight of fresh butter and strain through tammy.

This butter accentuates the savour of certain sauces, such as
Bercy, Ravigote, &c.

147— CRAYFISH BUTTER

Pound, very finely, the remains and shells of crayfish cooked
in Mirepoix. Add their weight of butter, and strain through a
fine sieve, and again through tammy, so as to avoid the presence
of any shell particles. This latter precaution applies to all shell-
fish butters.

148 -TARRAGON BUTTER

Quickly scald and cool eight oz. of fresh tarragon, drain,
press in a towel, pound in a mortar, and add to them one lb. of
butter. Strain through tammy, and put aside in the cool if it is
not to be used immediately.

149— LOBSTER BUTTER

Reduce to a paste in the mortar the spawn, shell, and creamy
parts of lobster. Add their equal in weight of butter and strain
through tarnmy.

150— BUTTER A LA MAiTRE D'HOTEL

First manie and then soften into a cream one-half lb. of butter.
Add a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, a little salt and pepper,
and a few drops of lemon-juice.

Serve this v-ith grills in general.

151— MANIED BUTTER

Mix, until perfectly combined, four oz. of butter and three oz.
of sifted flour. This butter is made immediately before the time
of dishing up, and is used for quick leasons like the Mat^
lotes, &c.

COLD SAUCES AND COMPOUND BUTTERS 57

The sauce to which manied butter has been added should not
boil if this can possibly be avoided, as it would thereby acquire a
very disagreeajjle taste of raw flour.

iSia-MELTED BUTTER

This preparation, which is used principally as a fish sauce,
should consist of butter, only just melted, and combined with
a little table-salt and a few drops of lemon-juice. It should
therefore be prepared only at the last minute; for, should it wait
and be allowed to clarify, besides losing its flavour it will be
found to disagree with certain people.

152— BUTTER A LA MEUNIERE

Put into a frying-pan the necessary quantity of butter, and
cook it gently until it has acquired a golden tint and exudes a
slight smell of nut. Add a few drops of lemon-juice, and pour
on the fish under treatment, which should have been previously
sprinkled with concussed parsley.

This butter is proper to fish " kla Meuni^re " and is always
served on the fish.

IS3— MONTPELLIER BUTTER

Put into a saucepan containing boiling water equal quantities
of watercress leaves, parsley, chervil, chives, and tarragon (six
oz. in all), one and one-half oz. of chopped shallots, and one-
half oz. of spinach leaves. Boil for two minutes, then drain,
cool, press in a towel to expel water, and pound in a mortar with
one tablespoonful of pressed capers, four oz. of gherkins, a garlic
clove, and the fillets of four anchovies well washed.

Mix this paste with one and one-half lbs. of butter; then add
the yolks of three boiled eggs and two raw eggs, and finally
pour in, by degrees, two-fifths pint of oil. Strain through a fine
sieve or through tammy, put the butter into a basin, and stir
it well with a wooden spoon so as to make it smooth. Season
with table-salt and a little cayenne.

Use this butter to deck large fish, such as salmon and trout ;
but it is also used for smaller pieces and slices of fish.

Remarks. — When this butter is specially prepared to form
a. coat on fish, the oil and the egg yolks are omitted and only
butter is used.

58 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

154— BLACK BUTTER

Put into a frying-pan the necessary amount of butter, and
cook it until it has assumed a brown colour and begins to smoke.
At this moment add a large pinch of concussed parsley leaves
and spread it immediately over the object to be treated.

15s— HAZEL-NUT BUTTER

Put eight oz. of shelled hazel-nuts, for a moment, in the front
of the oven, in order to slightly grill their skins and make them
easily removable. Now crush the nuts in a mortar until they
form a paste, and add a few drops of cold water with a view to
preventing their producing any oil. Add their equivalent in
weight of butter and rub through tammy.

156— PISTACHIO BUTTER

Put into boiling water eight oz. of pistachios, and keep them
on the side of the fire until the peel may be easily removed.
Drain, cool in cold water, clean the pistachios, and finely pound
while moistening them with a few drops of water.
Add two oz. of butter and pass through tammy.

157— PRINTANIER BUTTER

These butters are made from all early-season vegetables, such
as carrots, French beans, peas, and asparagus heads.

When dealing with green vegetables cook quickly in boiling,
salted water, drain, dry, pound with their weight of butter,
and rub through tammy.

With carrots : Mince and cook with consomme, sugar, and
butter until the diluent is quite reduced. After cooling they
are pounded with their own weight of butter and rubbed through
tammy.

CHAPTER V

Savoury Jellies or Aspics

Jellies are to cold cookery what consommes and stock are to
hot. If anything, the former are perhaps more important, for
a cold entree — however perfect it may be in itself — is nothing
without its accompanying jelly.

In the recipes which I give hereafter I have made a point of
showing how melting jellies may be obtained, i.e., served in a
sauce-boat simultaneously with the cold comestible, or actually
poured over it when the latter lies in a deep dish — a common
custom nowadays.

This method of serving cold entries, which I inaugurated at
the Savoy Hotel with the " Supreme de Volaille Jeannette," is
the only one which allows of serving a jelly in a state of absolute
perfection.

Nevertheless, if a more solid jelly were required, either for the
decking of cold dishes or for a moulded entree, there need only
be added to the following formulse a few gelatine leaves — more
or less — according to the required firmness of the jelly.

But it should not be forgotten that the greater the viscosity
of the jelly the less value will the same possess.

The various uses of jellies are dealt with in Part II. of this
work, where the formulas of their divers accompanying dishes
will also appear.

158— ORDINARY ASPICS

Stock for Ordinary Aspic. — Quantities for making Four Quart';.

4 lbs. of strung knuckle of veal. 3 calf's feet, boned and blanched.

3 lbs. of strung knuckle of beef. | lb. of fresh pork rind, well

3 lbs. of veal bones, well broken blanched and with fat re-

up. moved.

Mode of Procedure. — Put the meats in a very clean and well-
tinned stockpot or stewpan. Add eight quarts of cold water,
boil, and skim after the manner indicated under No. i. Having
well skimmed the stock add one oz. of salt, put it on the side of

6o GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

the fire, and let it boil gently for four hours. Then remove the
meat, talcing care not to disturb the stock. Carefully remove
the fat, and garnish with one-half lb. of carrots, six oz. of
onions, two oz. of leeks, a stick of celery, and a large faggot.
Put the whole back on to the fire and cook gently for a further
two hours. Strain through a sieve into a very clean basin and
leave to cool.

Clarification of Aspic. — When the stock, prepared according
to the above directions, has cooled, the grease that has formed on
its surface should be removed. Then pour off gently into a stew-
pan of convenient size in such a way as to prevent the deposit at
the bottom of the basin from mixing with the clear liquor. Test
the consistence of the aspic, when it should be found that the
quantities given above have proved sufficient to form a fairly
firm jelly. If, however, this be not the case, a few leaves of
gelatine steeped in cold water should be added, being careful not
to overdo the quantity. Now add to the stock two lbs. of lean
beef (first minced and then pounded together with the white of
an egg), a little chervil and tarragon, and a few drops of lemon-
juice. Place the saucepan on an open fire, stir its contents with a
spatula until the liquid begins to boil, remove it from the fire,
and place it on the side of the stove, where it may boil gently for
half an hour.

At the end of this time take the saucepan off the fire and
remove what little grease has formed on the aspic while cooking.
Strain through a serviette stretched and fastened across the legs
of an overturned stool, and let the aspic fall into a basin placed
between the legs. Ascertain whether the liquid is quite
clear, and if, as frequently happens, this be not the case, what
has already been strained should once more be passed through
the serviette, renewing the operation until the aspic becomes
quite transparent.

Flavouring the Aspic. — The aspic obtained as above is limpid,
has an agreeable savour, and is the colour of fine amber. It now
only requires flavouring according to the tastes of the consumer
and the purpose for which it is intended. For this operation it
should be allowed to become quite tepid, and the following quan-
tities of choice wine are added to it, viz. : —

If the wine is of a liqueur kind, such as Sherry, Marsala,
Madeira, &c., one-fifth pint per quart.

If it is another kind of wine, for example, champagne, hock,
&c., one-fourth pint per quart.

The wine used should be very clear, free from any deposit,
and as perfect as possible in taste.

SAVOURY JELLIES OR ASPICS 6i

159— CHICKEN ASPIC

The quantities of meat are the same as for ordinary aspic;
there need only be added to it either two oven-browned hens, or
their equivalent in weight of roasted fowl carcases, and poultry
giblets if these are handy. It is always better, however, to pre-
pare the stock with the hens and giblets and to keep the carcases
for the clarification. This clarification follows the same rules
as that of the ordinary aspic, except that a few roasted-fowl car-
cases, previously well freed from fat, are added to it.

In the case of this particularly delicate aspic, it is more than
ever necessary not to overdo the amount of gelatine. It should
be easily soluble to the palate in order to be perfect.

160— GAME ASPIC

Prepare this aspic stock in exactly the same way as that of
ordinary aspic, only substitute game, such as deer, roebuck, doe,
or hare, or wild rabbit (previously browned in the oven), for the
beef. When possible also add to this stock a few old specimens
of feathered game, such as partridges or pheasants that are too
tough for other purposes and which suit admirably here.

The clarification changes according to the different flavours
which are to be given to the aspic. If it is not necessary to give
it a special characteristic, it should be prepared with the meat of
that ground game which happens to be most available at the
time, adding to the quantity used roast carcases of feathered
game, the respective amounts of both ingredients being the same
as for ordinary aspic. If, on the other hand, the aspic is to have
a well-defined flavour, the meat used for the clarification should
naturally be that producing the flavour in question, i.e., either
partridge or pheasant, or hazel-hen, &c.

Some aspics are greatly improved by being flavoured with a
small quantity of old brandy. Rather than use an inferior kind
of this ingredient, however, I should advise its total omission
from the aspic.

Without aromatisation the aspic, though imperfect, is pas-
sable; but aromatised with bad brandy it is invariably spoilt.

LENTEN ASPICS

161— FISH ASPIC WITH WHITE WINE

The stock for this aspic is prepared in precisely the same
manner as fish stock, No. i . The stewpan need not, however, be
buttered previous to the insertion of the onions, parsley-stalks.

62 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

and fish-bones. If the aspic is not required to be quite white, a
little saffron may be added to it, as the aroma of this condiment
blends so perfectly with that of fish.

When the stock is prepared its consistence should be tested,
and rectified, if necessary, by means of gelatine. The quantity
of this substance should on no account exceed eight leaves per
quart of aspic, and, at the risk of repeating myself, I remind the
reader that the less gelatine is used the better the aspic will be.

The clarification should be made with fresh caviare if pos-
sible, but pressed caviare is also admirably suited to this purpose.
The quantities are the same as for the clarification of fish con-
somm6. No. 4.

In flavouring white fish aspics either dry champagne or a
good Bordeaux or Burgundy may be used. Take care, how-
ever—

1. That the wine used be of an unquestionably good quality.

2. That it be only added to the aspic when the latter is
already cold and on the point of coagulating, as this is the
only means of preserving all the aroma of the wine.

Finally, in certain cases, a special flavour may be obtained
by the use of crayfish, which are cooked, as for bisque, then
pounded, and added to the fish stock No. 11 ten minutes before
straining it. A proportion of four little crayfish k bisque per
quart of aspic is sufficient to secure an excellent aroma.

162— FISH ASPIC WITH RED WINE

This aspic stock is the Court-bouillon with red wine No.
165, which has served in cooking the fish for which the aspic
is intended ; this fish is generally either trout or salmon ; some-
times also, but less commonly, a carp or a pike.

This stock must first of all have its grease thoroughly re-
moved; it should then be poured carefully away, reduced if
necessary, and the required quantity of gelatine added. This
cannot be easily determined, as all gelatines are not alike, and
the stock may have contracted a certain consistence from its
contact with the fish. One can, therefore, only be guided by
testing small quantities cooled in ice, but care should be taken
that the aspic be not too firm.

The clarification of this aspic is generally made with white
of egg in the proportion of one white per quart. The white,
half-whisked, is added to the cold stock, and the latter is
put over an open fire and stirred with a spatula. As soon
as it boils the aspic is poured through a serviette fixed on to

SAVOURY JELLIES OR ASPICS 63

the legs of an overturned stool. The first drippings of the fluid
are put back on to the serviette if they do not seem clear, and
this operation is repeated until the required clearness is obtained.

It almost invariably happens that, either during the cook-
ing of the fish or during the clarification, the wine loses its
colour through the precipitation of the colouring elements de-
rived from the tannin.

The only way of overcoming this difficulty is to add a few
drops of liquid carmine or vegetable red ; but, in any case, it is
well to remember that the colour of red-wine aspic must never
be deeper than a sombre pink.

CHAPTER VI

The Court-bouillons and the Marinades

163— COURT= BOUILLON WITH VINEGAR

Quantities Required for Five Quarts.

5 quarts of water. f lb. of carrots.

\ pint of vinegar. i lb. of onions.

2 oz. of gray salt. A little thyme and bay.
\ oz. of peppercorn.^. 2 oz. of parsley stalics.

Preparation. — Put into a saucepan the water, salt, and
vinegar, the minced carrots and onions, and the parsley, thyme,
and bay, gathered into a bunch. Boil, allow to simmer for
one hour, rub through tammy, and put aside until wanted.

Remariis. — Put the peppercorns into the court-bo^iillon
only twelve minutes before straining the latter. If the pepper
were in for too long a time it would give a bitterness to the
preparation. This rule also applies to the formula; that follow,
in which the use of peppercorns is also required.

This court-bouillon is principally used for cooking trout
and salmon, as well as for various shell-fish.

164— COURT=BOUiLLON WITH WHITE WINE

Quantities Required for Two Qtiarts.

I quart of white wine. i large faggot.

I quart of water. | oz. of gray salt.

3 oz. of minced onions. A few peppercorns.

Preparation. — This is the same as for the court-bouillon with
vinegar, except that it is boiled for half an hour and is strained
through tammy.

Remarks. — If the court-bouillon has to be reduced the
quantity of salt should be proportionately less. This prepara-
tion is principally used for poaching fresh-water fish.

i65-COURT=BOUILLON WITH RED WINE

Use the same quantities as for court-bouillon with white
wine, taking care —

I. To replace white wine by excellent red wine.

COURT-BOUILLONS AND MARINADES 65

2. To add four oz. of minced carrots.

3. To apportion the wine and water in the ratio of two-
thirds to one-third.

Preparation. — The same as that of the former, with the same
time for boiling.

Remarks. — If the court-bouillon is to be reduced, the salt
should be less accordingly. When the court-bouillon with red
wine is to constitute an aspic stock, fish fumet with enough
gelatine takes the place of the water.

The uses of court-bouillon with red wine are similar to
those of the white-wine kind.

166— PLAIN COURT- BOUILLON

The quantity of court-bouillon is determined by the size of
the piece which it is to cover. It is composed of cold, salt
water (the salt amounting to a little less than one-half oz. per
quart of water), one-quarter pint of milk per quart of water,
and one thin slice of peeled lemon in the same proportion.
The fish is immersed while the liquor is cold; the latter is very
slowly brought to the boil, and as soon as this is reached, the
receptacle is moved to the side of the fire, where the cooking
of the fish is completed.

This court-bouillon, which is used with large pieces of turbot
and brill, is never prepared beforehand.

167— SPECIAL COURT- BOUILLON, OR BLANC

This preparation is a genuine court-bouillon, though it is
not used in cooking fish.

The Quantities Required for Five Quarts of this
Court-bouillon are : —

A little less than 2 oz. of flour. The juice of 3 lemons or ^ pint of

ij oz. of grey salt. good vinegar.

5 quarts of cold water.

Gradually mix the flour and the water; add the salt and
the lemon juice, and pass through a strainer. Set to boil, and
stir the mixture the while, in order to prevent the flour from
precipitating ; as soon as the boil is reached, immerse the objects
to be treated. These are usually calf's head or foot, previously
blanched; sheep's trotters, cocks' kidneys or combs, or such
vegetables as salsify, cardoon, &c.

Remarks upon the Use of Court-bouillon.

I. Court-bouillon must always be prepared in advance for
all fish, the time for poaching which is less than half an hour,
except turbots and brills.

F

66 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

2. When a fish is of such a size as to need more than half
an hour's poaching, proceed as follows: — Place under the
drainer of the fish-kettle the minced carrots and onions and
the faggot; put the fish on the drainer, and cover it with
water and vinegar, or white wine, in accordance with the
kind of court-bouillon wanted and the quantity required. Add
the salt, boil, and keep the court-bouillon gently simmering for
a period of time fixed by the weight of the fish. The time
allowed for poaching the latter will be given in their respective
formulae.

3. Fish, when whole, should be immersed in cold court-
bouillon; when sliced, in the same liquor, boiling. The ex-
ceptions to this rule are small trout " au bleu " and shell-fish.

4. If fish be cooked in short liquor the aromatics are put
under the drainer and the liquid elements of the selected court-
bouillon (as, for example, that with red or white wine) are so
calculated as to cover only one-third of the solid body. Fish
cooked in this way should be frequently basted.

5. Court-bouillon for ordinary and spiny lobsters should
always be at full boiling pitch when these are immersed. The
case is the same for small or medium fish " au bleu."

6. Fish which is to be served cold, also shell-fish, should
cool in the court-bouillon itself; the cooking period is conse-
quently curtailed.

Marinades and Brines.

Marinades play but a small part in English cookery, venison
or other ground-game being generally preferred fresh. How-
ever, in the event of its being necessary to resort to these
methods of preparation, I shall give two formulae for venison
and two for mutton.

The use of the marinade for venison is very much debated.
Certainly it is often desirable that the fibre of those meats that
come from old specimens of the deer and boar species be
softened, but there is no doubt that what the meat gains in
tenderness it loses in flavour. On the whole, therefore, it would
be best to use only those joints which come from young beasts.

In the case of the latter, the marinade may well be dispensed
with. It would add nothing to the savour of a haunch of
venison, such as may be got in England, while it would be
equally ineffectual in the case of the roebuck or hare. A sum-
mary treatment of these two, with raw marinade, may well
be adopted, as also for deer.

COURT-BOUILLONS AND MARINADES 67

As for cooked marinade, its real and only use lies in the
fact that during stormy summer weather it enables one to pre.
serve meat which would otherwise have to be wasted. It may,
moreover, be used for braised venison, but this treatment of
game is very uncommon nowadays.

168— COOKED MARINADE FOR VENISON

Quantities Required for Five Quarts.

^ lb. of minced carrots. i faggot, including i oz. of pars-

J lb. of minced onions. ley stalks, 2 sprigs of rose-

2 oz. of minced shallots. mary, as much thyme, and

I crushed garlic clove. 2 bay leaves.

Preparation. — Heat one-half pint of oil in a stewpan, add
the carrots and onions, and fry them while stirring frequently.
When they begin to brown add the shallots, the garlic, and
the faggot, then one pint of vinegar, two bottles of white
wine, and three quarts of water. Cook this marinade for
twenty minutes, and add a further two oz. of salt, one-half oz.
of peppercorns, and four oz. of brown sugar. Ten minutes
afterwards pass it through a strainer and let it cool before in-
serting the meats.

N.B. — In summer the marinade very often decomposes,
because of the blood contained by the meat under treatment in
it. The only means of averting this is to boil the marinade
every two or three days at least.

169— RAW MARINADE FOR BUTCHER'S MEAT OR VENISON

This marinade is prepared immediately before using. The
meat to be treated is first salted and peppered on all sides,
then it is put in a receptacle just large enough to hold
it, and laid therein on a litter of aromatics, including minced
carrots and onions, a few chopped shallots, parsley stalks,
thyme, and bay in proportion to the rest. Now sprinkle the
meat copiously with oil and half as much vinegar; cover the
dish with oil-paper, and put it somewhere in the cool.
Remember to turn the meat over three or four times a day,
covering it each time with a layer of vegetables.

This marinade is very active, and is admirably suited to
all butcher's meat and venison, provided these be not allowed
to remain in it for too long a time. It is very difficult to say
how long the meat must stay in these marinades ; the time varies
according to the size and quality of the joints, and the taste
of the consumer, &c. All that can be said is that three hours
should be sufiScient to marinade a cutlet or escalope of roebuck,

F 2

68 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

and that for big joints such as saddle or leg the time should
not exceed four days.

170— MARINADE FOR MUTTON, ROEBUCK-STYLE

This is exactly the same as cooked marinade, No. 168.
There need only be added one oz. of juniper berries, a few
sprigs of rosemary, wild thyme, and basil, two extra garlic
cloves, and one quart less of water.

171— MARINADE WITH RED WINE FOR MUTTON

By substituting red wine for white in the preceding formula
— the quantity of the liquid equalling that of the water — and by
slightly increasing the quantity of aromatics, an excellent
marinade for mutton is obtained, which in summer enables one
to preserve meat, otherwise perishable, for some days.

172— BRINE

Quantities Required for Fifty Quarts.

56 lbs. of gray salt. 6 lbs. of saltpetre.

50 quarts of water. 3I lbs. of brown sugar.

Mode of Procedure. — Put the salt and the water in a tinned
copper pan, and put it on an open fire. When the water boils,
throw in a peeled potato, and, if the latter float, add water until
it begins to sink. If, on the contrary, the potato should sink
immediately, reduce the liquid until it is able to buoy the
tuber up. At this stage the sugar and saltpetre are added;
let them dissolve, and the brine is then removed from the
fire and is allowed to cool. It is then poured into the re-
ceptacle intended for it, which must be either of slate, stone,
cement, or well-jointed tiles. It is well to place in the bottom
of this reservoir a wooden lattice, whereon the meats to be
salted may be laid, for, were the immersed objects to lie directly
on the bottom of the receptacle, the under parts would be
entirely shielded from the brine.

If the meats to be salted are of an appreciable size, they should
be inoculated with brine by means of a special syringe. With-
out this measure it would be impossible to salt regularly, as
the sides would already be over-saturated before the centre had
even been properly reached.

Eight days should be allowed for salting a piece of beef
of what size soever, above eight or ten lb., since the process
of inoculation equalises the salting.

Ox-tongue intended for salting, besides having to be as

COURT-BOUILLONS AND MARINADES 69

fresh as possible, must be trimmed of almost all the cartilage
of the throat, and carefully beaten either with a beater or
roller. Then it must be pricked on all sides with a string-
needle, and immersed in the liquid, where it should be slightly
weighted by some means or other in order to prevent its rising
to the surface. A medium-sized tongue would need about seven
days' immersion in the brine.

Though brine does not turn as easily as the cooked
marinades, it would be well, especially in stormy weather, to
watch it and occasionally to boil it. But, as the process of
boiling invariably concentrates the brine, a little water
should be added to it every time it is so treated, and the test
of the potato, described above, should always be resorted to.

CHAPTER VII

I. Elementary Preparations

Before broaching the question of the numerous prepara-
tions which constitute the various soup, relev6, and entree gar-
nishes, it will be necessary to give the formulae of the elementary
preparations, or what are technically called the mise en
place. If the various operations which go to make the mise
en place were not, at least summarily, discussed here, I should
be compelled to repeat them in each formula for which they
are required — that is to say, in almost every formula. I should
thus resemble those bad operators who, having neglected their
mise en place, are obliged to make it in the course of other
work, and thereby not only run the risk of making it badly,
but also of losing valuable time which might be used to better
advantage.

Elementary preparations consist of those things whereof
one is constantly in need, which may be prepared in advance,
and which are kept available for use at a moment's notice.

173— ANCHOVIES (FILLETS OF)

Whether they be for hors d'oeuvres or for culinary use, it
is always best to have these handy.

After having washed and well wiped them, in order to re-
move the white powder resulting from the little scales with
which they are covered, they should be neatly trimmed to the
shape of extended oblongs. Then detach the fillets from the
bones by gentle pulling, divide each fillet lengthwise into three
or four smaller fillets, put the latter into a small narrow dish
or a little bowl, and cover them with oil. The fillets may
also be kept whole with a view to rolling them into rings.

174— ANQLAISE (FOR EQO=AND-BREAD-CRUMBINQ)

It is well to have this always ready for those dishes which
are to be panes a I'anglaise, or as many of the recipes direct :
treated a I'anglaise.

ELEMENTARY PREPARATIONS 71

It is made of well-whisked eggs, salt, pepper, and one
dessertspoonful of oil per couple of eggs.

Its Uses. — The solids to be panes a I'anglaise are dipped
into the preparation described above, taking care that the latter
coats them thoroughly; whereupon, according to the require-
ments, they arerolled either in bread-crumbs or in fine raspings.
From this combination of egg with bread-crumbs or raspings
there results a kind of coat which, at the moment of contact with
the hot fat, is immediately converted into a resisting crust. In
croquettes this crust checks the escape, into the fat, of the sub-
stances it encloses, and this is more especially the case when
the croquettes contain some reduced sauce, or are composed
of raw meats or fish whose juices are thereby entirely retained.
A solid prepared a I'anglaise and cooked in fat should
always be put into the latter when this is very hot, so as to
ensure the instantaneous solidification of the egg and bread-
crumbs.

N.B. — Objects to be treated a I'anglaise are generally
rolled in flour before being immersed in the anglaise, for the
flour helps the foregoing to adhere to the object.

The crust formed over the solid thus acquires a density which
is indispensable.

174a— AROMATICS

Aromatics play a very prominent part in cookery, and their
combination with the condiments constitutes, as Grinod de la
Reyni^re said, "the hidden soul of cooking." Their real
object, in fact, is to throw the savour of dishes into relief, to
intensify that savour, and to give each culinary preparation its
particular stamp.

They are all derived from the vegetable kingdom ; but, while
some are used dry, others are used fresh.

The first-named should belong to the permanent kitchen
stock ; they are : sage, basil, rosemary, sweet marjoram, thyme,
and bay.

Also to be included in the permanent stock are : cinnamon,
ginger, juniper-berries, nutmeg, cloves, mace, and vanilla.

The last-named comprise those aromatic herbs used fresh,
such as : parsley, chervil, tarragon, pimpernel, and common
savory ; while, under this head, there may also be included :
bits of common- and Seville-orange rind and zests of lemon
rind.

174b— SEASONING AND CONDIMENTS

Seasonings are divided into several classes, which com.
prise : —

72 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

1. Saline seasonings. — Salt, spiced salt, saltpetre.

2. Acid seasonings. — Plain vinegar, or the same aromatised
with tarragon ; verjuice, lemon juice, and common- or Seville-
orange juices.

3. Hot seasonings. — Peppercorns, ground or concassed
pepper, or mignonette; paprika, curry, cayenne, and com-
pound spices.

4. Saccharine seasonings. — Sugar and honey.
Condiments are likewise subdivided, the three classes

being : —

(i) The pungents. — Onions, shallots, garlic, chives, and
horseradish.

2. Hot condiments. — Mustard, gherkins, capers, English
sauces, such as Worcester, Harvey, Ketchup, Escoffier's sauces,
&c.; the wines used in reductions and braisings; the finishing
elements of sauces and soups.

3. Fatty substances. — Most animal fats, butter, vegetable
greases (edible oils and cocoanut butter).

Remarks. — In cookery it should be borne in mind that both
excellence and eatableness depend entirely upon a judicious use
and a rational blending of the aromatics, seasonings, and con-
diments. And, according as the latter have been used and
apportioned, their action will be either beneficial or injurious
to the health of the consumer.

In the matter of seasoning there can be no question of
approximation or half measures; the quantities must be exact,
allowing only of slight elasticity in respect of the various tastes
to be satisfied.

175— CLARIFIED BUTTER

A certain quantity of clarified butter should always be kept
ready and handy.

To prepare this butter, put one lb. to melt in a saucepan
large enough to hold twice that amount. Place the saucepan
on the side of the fire, over moderate heat ; remove all the scum
which rises to the surface, and, when the butter looks quite
clear and all foreign substances have dropped to the bottom,
put the liquid carefully away and strain it through muslin.

176— FAQQOTS (BOUQUETS QARNIS)

The name "faggot" is given to those little bunches of
aromatics which, when the contrary is not stated, are generally
composed (in order to weigh one ounce) of eight-tenths oz. of

ELEMENTARY PREPARATIONS 73

parsley stalks and roots, one-tenth oz. of bay leaves, and one-
tenth oz. of thyme. These various aromatics are put neatly
together so that no sprig of the one sticks out beyond the
others, and they are properly strung together.

177— CHERVIL

Chopped Chervil. — Clean the chervil and remove the stalks ;
wash, dry it well while tossing it, then chop it finely and put
it aside on a plate in the cool, if it is not for immediate use.

Concussed Chervil. — Proceed as above, except that, instead
of chopping it, compress it between the fingers and slice it after
the manner of a chaff-cutter. Concussed and chopped chervil
are, if possible, only prepared at the last moment.

Chervil Pinches. — The pluches are greatly used in the
finishing off of soups. They are, practically, the serrated por-
tions only of the leaves, which are torn away in such a manner
as to show no trace of the veinings. They are immersed in
water, and at the last moment withdrawn, so as to be added,
raw, to either soups or boiling consommes.

178— RASPINGS

Golden raspings are obtained by pounding and passing
through a fine sieve bread-crusts which have been previously
well dried in the oven.

White ruspings are similarly prepared, except that very dry,
white crumb is used.

179— PEELED, CHANNELLED, AND ZESTED LEMONS

Lemons are greatly used in cookery, as dish and comestible
garnish. When a whole lemon is used for marinades of fish,
for the " bluncs," &c., it is well to peel it to the pulp, i.e., to
remove the peel and the whole of the underlying white. The
lemon is then cut into more or less large slices, according to
the use for which it is intended.

The rind of a lemon thus peeled may be cut into bits and
used in this form as the necessity arises. When cutting it up,
flatten the rind inside uppermost on the table, and, with a very
sharp and flexible knife, remove all the white; then slice the
remaining peel (which constitutes what is called zest) into strips
about one inch wide, and cut these laterally in fine julienne-
fashion.

Scald the resulting bits for five minutes, cool them, drain
them carefully, and put them aside until wanted. Sometimes,
instead of cutting julienne-fashion, the zest may be finely
chopped, but the rest of the process remains the same.

74 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

Lemons are channelled by means of a little knife, or a special
instrument for the purpose, which excises parallel ribbons from
the surface of the rind and lays the white bare. A lemon
channelled in this way is cut in two, lengthwise with the core ;
its two extremities are removed, and the two halves are cut
laterally into thin, regular slices to look like serrated half-discs.

The lemon may also be cut at right angles to the core.

Fried fish, oysters, and certain game are generally garnished
with lemon slices fashioned according to the taste of the cook ;
but the simplest, and perhaps the best, way is to cut the lemon
through the centre, after having trimmed the two ends quite
straight, and then to remove the rind roughly from the edge.

For whatever purpose the lemon be intended, it should be,
as far as possible, only prepared at the last moment. If it must
be prepared beforehand, it would be well to keep it in a bowl
of fresh water.

1 80— SHALLOTS

Chopped Shallots. — Clean the shallots, and, by means of a
very sharp knife, cut them lengthwise into thin slices ; let these
cling together by not allowing the knife to cut quite through
them, and, this done, turn them half round and proceed in the
same way at right angles to the other cuts.

Finally, cut them laterally, and this will be found to produce
very fine and regular, small cubes.

Ciseled Shallots. — The name " ciseled shallots" is often
erroneously given to those shallots resulting from the above
process.

But ciseled shallots are merely laterally sliced, the result ot
which operation is a series of thin, regular discs. Ciseled or
chopped shallots should, when possible, only be prepared when
required; if, however, they must be treated in advance, they
should be kept somewhere in the cool until wanted.

181-SPICES

Strictly speaking, spices include cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger,
mace ; and the many varieties of peppers and pimenta, cayenne,
paprika, &c.

These various condiments are found ready-made on the
market, and they need only be kept dry in air-tight boxes in
order to prevent the escape of their aroma.

But there is another kind of preparation, in cookery, to
which the name of spice or all-spice is more especially given.

ELEMENTARY PREPARATIONS 75

Nowadays several market varieties of this preparation exist, and
vie with each other for custom, though in most cases they
deserve it equally well.

Formerly this was not so, and every chef had his own
formula.

The following is a recipe for the spice in question, which
would be found useful if it had to be prepared at a moment's
notice : —

Obtain the following, very dry.

5 oz. of bay leaves. 4 oz. of cloves.

3 oz. of thyme (half of it wild, if 3 oz. of ginger-root,

possible). 3 oz. of mace.

3 oz. of coriander. 10 oz. of mixed pepper (half black

4 oz. of cinnamon. and half white).

6 oz. of nutmeg. i oz. of cayenne.

Put all these ingredients into a mortar and pound them until
they are all able to pass through a very fine sieve. Put the
resulting powder into an air-tight box, which must be kept dry.

Before being used, this spice is generally mixed with salt
(No. 188).

182— FLOUR

For whatever use the flour is intended, it is always best to
sift it. This is more particularly necessary in the case of flour
used for coating objects to be fried; for the latter, being first
dipped into milk, must of necessity let a few drops of that
liquid fall into the flour they are rolled in. Lumps would
therefore form, which might adhere to the objects to be fried
if the flour were not sifted.

183— HERB JUICE

This is to finish or intensify certain preparations.

To prepare it, throw into a small saucepan of boiling water
some parsley, chervil, and tarragon and chive leaves, in equal
quantities, according to the amount of juice required.

Set to boil for two minutes, drain, cool, press the herbs in
a towel, twisting the latter; pound very finely, and extract the
juice from the resulting paste by twisting a strong towel
round it.

Keep this juice in the cool.

1 84— BREAD - CRUMBS

Thoroughly rub, in a closed towel, some stale bread-crumb
previously well broken up. Pass it through a fine sieve or
colander, according as to whether it is required very fine o^ not,
and put it aside in a convenient receptacle.

76 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

i8s— CHOPPED ONION

Cut the onion finely, like the shallots, but if it is to be
minced with a view to making it even finer, it should be freed
of its pungent juice, which would cause it to blacken with
exposure to the air.

To accomplish this, put the onion in the corner of a towel,
pour plenty of cold water over it, and twist the towel in order
to express the water. By this means the onion remains quite
white.

i86— TURNED OR STONED OLIVES

There are special instruments for stoning olives, but, failing
these, cut the fruit spirally from the stone with the point of a
small knife.

Keep the olives in slightly salted water.

187— PARSLEY

Chopped Parsley. — If parsley be properly chopped, no juice
should be produced. If, on the contrary, the operation be per-
formed badly, it amounts to a process of pounding which, per-
force, expresses the juice.

In the latter case the particles cohere, and they are sprinkled
with difficulty over an object. To remedy this shortcoming,
wash the choppings in fresh water, as in the case of the onion,
pressing in a similar manner so as to expel the water.

Concussed Parsley is that kind which is roughly chopped.
When a culinary preparation is dressed with concussed parsley,
the latter should be added to it a few moments before serving,
in order to undergo a slight cooking process; whereas chopped
parsley may be strewn over a dish at the last moment.

It should be remembered that parsley, when quite fresh and
used in moderation, is an excellent thing; but, should it have
remained too long in the heat, it becomes quite insufferable.

I cannot, therefore, too strongly urge the advisability of
using it in the freshest possible state, and it would even be
wiser to discard it entirely than to be forced to ignore this
condition.

Parsley Sprays. — These are chiefly used in garnishing
dishes, and it is well for the purpose to make as much use as
possible of the curled-leaf kind, after having removed the long
stalks. Keep the sprays in fresh water until required.

Fried Parsley. — This consists of the sprays, well drained of
watei»after washing, and immersed for an instant in very hot
fat. The moment it is fried carefully drain it, salt it, and place

ELEMENTARY PREPARATIONS 77

it in a clean towel, where it may get rid of any superfluous
grease. It is used to dress fried viands.

188— SALT

Two kinds of salt are used in cooking, viz., grey, or sea-salt,
and rock-salt. Grey-salt is used more especially for Brines
and in the preparation of ices, as its grey colour does not
allow of its being used indiscriminately.

Be this as it may, many prefer it to rock-salt for the salting
of stock-pots, roasts, and grills. For the last two purposes it
is crushed with a roller, without being pounded, and the result
should be such that every grain is distinctly perceptible to the
touch.

This salt, in melting over a roast or a grill, certainly imparts
a supplementary flavour to the latter which could not be got with
the use of rock-salt.

Rock-salt. — This is found on the market in the forms of
cooking and table-salt. If the kitchen is only supplied with
cooking salt, the quantity required for several days should be
dried, pounded in the mortar, and passed through a fine sieve;
and then put aside in a dry place for use when wanted. Even
table-salt, as it reaches one from the purveyor, sometimes needs
drying and passing through a sieve before being used.

Spiced Salt. — This condiment, which serves an important
purpose in the preparation of pies and galantines, is obtained
from a mixture of one lb. of table salt with three and one-half oz.
of spices (No. 181).

This kind of salt should be carefully kept in a very dry place.

2. The Various Kinds of Garnishes for Soups, Releves,
AND Entrees, Hot or Cold

stuffings AND FORCEMEATS

189— VARIOUS PANADAS FOR STUFFINGS

Panadas are those preparations which go to make the leason
of forcemeats and which ensure their proper consistence when
they are cooked. They are not necessary to every forcemeat; for
the mousseline kind, which are the finest and lightest, do not
require them. Nevertheless, they are useful for varying the taste
and the uses of forcemeats, and I thought it advisable to intro-
duce them here. The reader will thus be able to use either
forcemeats with a panada base or mousseline forcemeats ; in
accordance with the requirements and his resources.

78 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

190— A. BREAD PANADA

Put one-half lb. of the crumb of bread and one-half oz, of
salt into one-half pint of boiling milk. When the crumb has
absorbed all the milk, place the saucepan over a brisk fire and
stir with a spatula until the paste has become so thick as not to
cling any longer to the end of the spatula. Turn the contents of
the saucepan into a buttered platter, and lightly butter the sur-
face of the panada in order to avoid its drying while it cools.

191— B. FLOUR PANADA

Put into a small saucepan one-half pint of water, a little salt,
and two oz. of butter. When the liquid boils add five oz. of sifted
flour thereto, stirring the while over a brisk fire until it reaches
the consistence described in the case of bread panada. Use the
same precautions with regard to cooling.

192— C. FRANQIPAN PANADA

Put into a stewpan four oz. of sifted flour, the yolks of four
eggs, a little salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Now add by degrees
three oz. of melted butter and dilute with one-half pint of boiled
milk. Pass through a strainer, stir over the lire until the boil is
reached; set to cook for five minutes while gently wielding the
whisk, and cool as in the preceding cases.

193— CHICKEN FORCEMEAT WITH
PANADA AND BUTTER

Remove the tendons from, and cut into cubes, one lb. of
chicken-meat. Pound, and add one-third oz. of salt, a little
pepper and nutmeg. When the meat is well pounded remove it
from the mortar, and place in its stead one-half lb. of very cold
panada (see No. 190). Finely pound this panada, and then add
one-half lb. of butter thereto, taking care that the two ingredients
mix thoroughly. Now put in the chicken-meat, and wield the
pestle vigorously until the whole mass is completely mixed.
Finally, add consecutively two whole eggs and the yolks of four,
stirring incessantly the while and seeing that each egg is only
inserted when the one preceding it has become perfectly incor-
porated with the mass. Rub through a sieve, put the forcemeat
into a basin, and smooth it with a wooden spoon.

Test the forcemeat by poaching a small portion of it in salted,
boiling water. This test, which is indispensable, allows of recti-
fying the seasoning and the consistence if necessary. If it be
found that the forcemeat is too light, a little white of egg could

ELEMENTARY PREPARATIONS 79

bft mingled with it ; if, on the ether hand, it should be too stiff
add a little softened buttef.

N.B. — By substituting for chicken veal, game, or fish, &c.,
any kind of forcemeat may be made; for the quantities of the
other ingredients remain the same whatever the basic meat may
be.

194— CHICKEN FORCEMEAT WITH
PANADA AND CREAM

(For Fine Quenelles.)

Finely pound one lb. of chicken-meat after having removed
the tendons, and seasoned with one-quarter oz. of salt, a little
pepper and nutmeg.

When the meat has been reduced to a fine paste, add, very
gradually, two oz. of white of egg. Finish with seven oz. of
Frangipan panada (No. 192), and work vigorously with the pestle
until the whole is amalgamated. Strain through a fine sieve,
put the forcemeat into a vegetable-pan sufficiently large to allow
of ultimately working it with ease, and place it on dee for a good
hour.

This done, stir the forcemeat (still on the ice) for a few
seconds with a wooden spoon, then add, in small quantities at a
time, one pint of raw cream. At this stage complete the prepara-
tion by adding thereto one-half pint of whipped cream. It
should then be found to be very white, smooth, and mellow.
Test as directed in the preceding recipe, and add a little white
of egg if it be too light, and a little cream if it be too stiff.

N.B. — This forcemeat may be prepared from all butcher's
meats, game, or fish.

195— FINE CHICKEN FORCEMEAT OR " MOUSSELINE "

Remove the tendons from, trim, and cut into cubes, one lb.
of chicken-meat. Season with one oz. of salt, a little pepper and
nutmeg.

Finely pound, and, when it is reduced to a paste, gradually
add the whites of two eggs, vigorously working with the pestle
meanwhile.

Strain through a fine sieve, put the forcemeat into a vege-
table-pan, stir it once more with the wooden spoon for a moment
or two, and combine with it, gradually, one pint of thick, fresh
cream, working with great caution and keeping the receptacle
on ice.

Remarks Relative to Mousseline Forcemeat. — This, like the
preceding forcemeats, may be prepared from any kind of meat.

8o GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

The addition of the white of egg is not essential if the meats
used already possess a certain quantity of albumen ; but without
the white of egg the forcemeat absorbs much less cream.

This forcemeat is particularly suited to preparations with a
shell-fish base. Incomparably delicate results are obtained by
the process, while it also furnishes ideal quenelles for the pur-
pose of garnishing soup. In a word, it may be said of mousse-
line forcemeat that, whereas it can replace all other kinds, none
of these can replace it.

N.B. — Mousseline forcemeats of all kinds, with meat,
poultry, game, fish, or shell-fish, may be made according to the
principles and quantities given above.

196— PORK FORCEMEAT FOR DIVERS USES

Remove the tendons of, and cut into large cubes, two lbs. of
fillet of pork, and the same weight of fresh, fat bacon. Season
with one and three-quarter oz. of spiced salt (No. 188), chop the
fillet and bacon up, together or separately, pound them finely in
the mortar, and finish with two eggs and two tablespoonfuls of
brandy.

This forcemeat is used for ordinary pies and terrines. Strictly
speaking, it is " sausage-meat." The inclusion of eggs in this
forcemeat really only obtains when it is used to stuff joints that
are to be braised, such as stuffed breast of veal ; or in the case of
pies and terrines. The addition of the egg in these cases pre-
vents the grease from melting too quickly, and thus averts the
drying of the forcemeat.

197— FORCEMEAT FOR QALANTiNES, PIES AND TERRINES

Remove the tendons from, and cut into cubes, one lb. of fillet
of veal and as much fillet of pork ; add to these two lbs. of fresh,
fat bacon, also cut into cubes. Season with three oz. of spiced
salt, chop the three ingredients together or apart, and then finely
pound them. Finish with three eggs and three tablespoonfuls
of burnt brandy, strain through a sieve, and place in a basin.

When about to serve this stuffing, add to it a little fumat
corresponding with the meat that is to constitute the dish. For
terrines, pies, and galantines of game, one-quarter or one-fifth of
the forcemeat's weight of gratin stuffing (proper to the game
under treatment) is added.

198— VEAL FORCEMEAT WITH FAT OR GODIVEAU

Remove the tendons from, and cut into cubes, one lb. of fillet
of veal ; also pare, i.e., detach skin and filaments from, two lbs.

ELEMENTARY PREPARATIONS 8i

of the very dry fat of kidneys of beef. First, chop these up
separately, then combine and pound them in the mortar. Season
with one-half oz. of salt, a little pepper, some nutmeg, and pound
afresh until the veal and fat become a homogeneous mass. Now
add four eggs, consecutively, and at intervals of a few minutes,
without ceasing to pound, and taking care only to insert each egg
after the preceding one has been properly mixed with the mass.
Spread the forcemeat thus prepared on a dish, and put the latter
on ice until the next day.

The next day pound once more, and add little by little four-
teen oz. of very clean ice (in small pieces) ; or, instead, an equal
weight of iced water, adding this also very gradually.

When the godiveau is properly moistened, poach a small por-
tion of it in boiling water in order to test its consistence. If it
be too firm, add some more ice to it; if, on the other hand, it
seem too flimsy, add a little of the white of an egg. For the
uses of godiveau and quenelles see No. 205.

199— VEAL FORCEMEAT WITH FAT AND CREAM

Chop finely and apart one lb. of very white fillet of veal, with
tendons removed, cut into cubes, and one lb. of the fat of pared
kidney of beef.

Combine the veal and the fat in the mortar, and pound until
the two ingredients form a fine and even paste. Season with one-
half oz. of salt, a little pepper, and some nutmeg, and add con-
secutively two eggs and two yolks, after the manner of the pre-
ceding recipe and without ceasing to pound. Strain through a
sieve, spread the forcemeat on a dish, and keep it on ice until the
next day.

Next day pound the forcemeat again for a few minutes, and
add to it, little by little, one and one-half pints of cream.

Test as before, and rectify if necessary, either by adding
cream or by thickening with the white of an egg.

200-CHICKEN FORCEMEAT FOR GALAN-
TINES, PIES AND TERRINES

The exact weight of chicken-meat used as the base of this
forcemeat determines the quantities of its other ingredients.
Thus the weight of meat afforded by a fowl weighing four lbs. is
estimated at twenty oz. after deducting the fillets which are
always reserved. Hence the quantities for the forcemeat are
regulated thus : —

Chicken-meat, twenty oz. ; lean pork, eight oz. ; fillet of veal,

G

82 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

eight oz.; fresh, fat bacon, thirty oz.; whole eggs, five; spiced
salt, two oz. ; brandy, one-fifth pint.

Chop up, either together or apart, the chiclien-meat, the veal,
the pork, and the bacon. Put all these into the mortar, pound
them very finely with the seasoning, add the eggs consecutively,
and, last of all, pour in the brandy.

Remarks

1 . The quantity of spiced salt varies, a few grammes either
way, according as to whether the atmosphere be dry or damp,

2. According to the purpose of the forcemeat, and with a
view to giving it a finer flavour, one may, subject to the resources
at one's disposal, add a little raw trimmings of foie gras to it ; but
the latter must not, in any case, exceed one-fifth of the forcemeat
in weight,

3. As a rule, forcemeat should always be rubbed through
a sieve so as to ensure its being fine and even.

4. Whether the foie gras be added or not, chicken forcemeat
may always be completed with two or three oz. of chopped truffles
per lb. of its volume.

201— GAME FORCEMEAT FOR PIES AND TERRINES

This follows the same principles as the chicken forcemeat,
i.e., the weight of the game-meat determines the quantities of the
other ingredients. The proportions are precisely the same as
above as regards the veal, the pork, the bacon, and the season-
ing. The procedure is also the same, while the appended re-
marks likewise apply.

202— QRATIN FORCEMEAT FOR
ORDINARY HOT, RAISED PIES

Put into a saut^pan containing one oz. of very hot butter, one-
half lb. of fresh, fat bacon, cut into large cubes, brown quickly,
and drain on a dish.

Quickly brown in the same butter one-half lb. of fillet of veal
cut like the bacon and drain in the same way.

Now rapidly brown one-half lb. of pale, calf's liver, also cut
into large cubes. Put the veal and the bacon back into the saute-
pan with the liver, add the necessary quantity of salt and pepper,
two oz. of mushroom parings, one oz. of truffle parings (raw if
possible), chopped shallots, a sprig of thyme, and a fragment of
bay. Put the whole on the fire for two minutes, drain the bacon,
the veal, and the liver, and put the gravy aside. Swill the saut6-
pan with one-quarter pint of Madeira,

ELEMENTARY PREPARATIONS 83

Pound the bacon, veal, and liver quickly and finely, while
adding consecutively six oz. of butter, the yolks of six eggs, the
gravy that has been put aside, one-third pint of cold, reduced
Espagnole, and the Madeira used for swilling.

Strain through a sieve, place in a tureen, and smooth with
the wooden spoon.

N.B. — To make a gratin forcemeat with game, substitute
for the veal that game-meat which may happen to be required.

203-PIKE FORCEMEAT FOR QUENELLES A LA LYONNAISE

Forcemeats prepared with the flesh of the pike are extremely
delicate. Subject to circumstances, they may be prepared
according to any one of the three formulae (Nos. 193, 194, 195).
There is another excellent method of preparing this forcemeat
which I shall submit here, as it is specially used for the prepara-
tion of pike forcemeat k la Lyonnaise.

Pound in a mortar one lb. of the meat of a pike, without the
skin or bones; combine with this one-half lb. of stiff frangi-
pan, season with salt and nutmeg, pass through a sieve, and put
back into the mortar.

Vigorously work the forcemeat in order to make it cohere,
and gradually add to it one-half lb. of melted beef-fat. The
whole half-pound, however, need not necessarily be beef-fat;
beef-marrow or butter may form part of it in the proportion of
half the weight of the beef-fat.

When the forcemeat is very fine and smooth, withdraw it from
the mortar and place it in a bowl surrounded with ice until
wanted.

204— SPECIAL STUFFINGS FOR FISH

These preparations diverge slightly from the forcemeats
given above, and they are of two kinds. They are used to
stuff such fish as mackerel, herring, shad, &c., to which they
lend a condimentary touch that makes these fish more agree-
able to the taste, and certainly more digestible.

First Method. — Put into a bowl four oz. of raw, chopped milt,
two oz. of bread-crumb, steeped in milk and well pressed, and
one and one-half oz. of the following fine herbs, mixed in equal
quantities and finely chopped: — Chives, parsley, chervil, shal-
lots, sweet basil, half a garlic clove (crushed), then two whole
eggs, salt, pepper, and nutmeg.

Chop up all these ingredients together so as to mix them
thoroughly.

Second Method. — Put into a bowl four oz. of bread-crumb

Q 3

84 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

steeped in milk and well pressed ; one-half oz. of onion and one-
half oz. of chopped shallots, slightly cooked in butter, and cold;
one oz. of raw mushrooms, chopped and well pressed in a towel ;
a tablespoonful of chopped parsley ; a piece of garlic the size of a
pea, crushed ; salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and two eggs.
Mix it as above,

205— FORCEMEAT BALLS OR QUENELLES

Divers ways of Moulding and Poaching them. — Whatever
be the required size or shape of quenelles there are four ways of
making them : — (i) By rolling them ; (2) by moulding them with
a spoon ; (3) by forming them with a piping-bag ; (4) by mould-
ing them by hand into the shape of a kidney.

1. To roll quenelles it is necessary to keep the forcemeat
somewhat stiff, and therefore this process could not well apply to
the mousseline forcemeats. Place one-quarter lb. of forcemeat,
when ready, on a floured board, and, with hands covered in flour,
roll the preparation until it has lengthened itself into the form of
a sausage, the thickness of which depends upon the required size
of the intended quenelles.

Cut up the sausage of forcemeat laterally with a floured
knife, and roll each section with the finger-ends until the
length it assumes is thrice that of its diameter. The balls
should be put aside on a floured tray as soon as they are made.

The Poaching of Rolled Quenelles. — When all the force-
meat has been used up, the balls are gently tilted into a sauce-
pan containing boiling, salted water, so calculated in quan-
tity as to allow of their not being too tightly squeezed. The
saucepan is covered and kept on the side of the fire until all
the balls have risen to the surface and are almost out of the
water. They are then removed with a skimmer and placed in
a bowl of cold water.

At last, when they have properly cooled, they are carefully
drained on a cloth and put aside on a dish until required.

When the quenelles are needed for immediate use it would
be better not to cool them.

2. To Mould Quenelles with a Spoon. — This method may
be applied to all forcemeats, and allows of the balls being
much softer, as the forcemeat need not be so stiff. First, butter
the sautepan or the tray, whereon the balls are to be laid, by
means of a brush, and let the butter cool.

Put the sautepan on the table in front and a little to the
right of one; on the left, place the sautepan or bowl contain-
ing the forcemeat, and on the further side of the buttered saut^-

ELEMENTARY PREPARATIONS 85

pan there should be a receptacle containing hot water, into
which the spoon used for moulding is inserted. For ordinary
quenelles two coffee-spoons are used, one of which is kept in
the hot water as stated above. Now, with the other held in
the left hand, take up a little of the forcemeat (just enough to
fill the spoon) ; withdraw the second spoon from the hot water
and place it, with its convex side uppermost, on the other spoon .

This smoothens the upper surface of the forcemeat. Now,
with the help of the second spoon, remove the whole of the
contents of the first spoon, and overturn the second spoon on the
spot in the tray or saut^pan which the ball is intended to
occupy. The second spoon, being at once moist and hot,
allows the forcemeat to leave it quite easily in the shape of a
large olive. Renew this operation until the whole of the force-
meat has been used.

The Poaching of Spoon-moulded Quenelles. — When all the
balls have been moulded, place the tray on the side of the
stove and pour enough boiling, salted water over them to
moisten them abundantly. Leave them to poach, and from
time to time move the tray ; then, when they have swollen suffi-
ciently and seem soft and firm to the touch, drain them. If
they are to be used at once they should be placed directly in the
sauce. If they have been prepared in advance, it would be
well to cool them as directed under rolled quenelles.

3. To Form Quenelles with a Piping-bag. — This process
is especially recommended for small, fine, and light forcemeat
balls intended for soup garnish. For, besides being extremely
quick, it allows of making them in any desirable size or shape.

Butter a tray or a saut^pan, and leave to cool. Put the
forcemeat into a bag fitted with a pipe at its narrowest end.
The pipe may be grooved or smooth, and its size must be in
accordance with that intended for the proposed balls. Now
squeeze out the latter, proceeding in the usual way and laying
them very closely.

The Poaching of Quenelles m,ade by the above Process,
with ordinary or Mousseline Forcemeat. — These quenelles are
poached in exactly the same way as the spoon-moulded ones.

The Poaching of Godiveau Quenelles made with a
Piping-bag. — These quenelles or balls are laid on a piece of
fine, buttered paper, which in its turn is placed upon a buttered
tray. The godiveau must not be too stiff, and the balls are
laid by means of the piping-bag side by side and slightly
touching one another. When the tray is covered push it into
a very moderate oven for a few minutes. The balls are poached

86 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

when a thin dew of grease may be seen to glisten on their
surfaces. On the appearance of this dew withdraw them from
the oven and overturn the tray, carefully, upon a marble slab,
taking care that the tray does not press at all upon the balls,
lest it crush them. When the latter are nearly cold the paper
which covers them is taken off with caution, and all that
remains to be done is to put them carefully away on a dish
until they are wanted.

4. To Mould Forcemeat with the Fingers. — This excellent
process is as expedient as that of the bag, and it produces
beautifully shaped balls. Place on the edge of a table, in front
of one, a saucepan three-quarters full of boiling, salted water,
the handle of the receptacle being turned to the far side. Now
take a piece of string one yard in length, double it over, and
tie the free ends to a weight of two lbs., letting the two strands
twist round each other.

This done, there should be a loop at the top of the string.
Put this loop round the handle of the saucepan, and draw
the string diametrically across the latter, letting the weight pull
the string tightly down on the side opposite to the handle.
When this has been effected the operator, with his left hand,
takes some of the forcemeat, smoothening it with a spoon,
and, placing the spoon near the string with his right, first
finger, he removes from its extremity a portion of the prepara-
tion about equal to the intended size of the balls. This portion
of the forcemeat remaining suspended on his first finger, the
operator now scrapes the latter across the string, and the ball
falls beneath into the saucepan containing the water. When
all the stuffing has been moulded in this way the saucepan is
placed on the fire to complete the poaching of the balls, and
the precautions indicated in the preceding processes are ob-
served.

CHAPTER VIII

The Various Garnishes for Soups.

ROYALES.

206— ORDINARY ROYALE

Put one oz. of chervil into one pint of boiling consomm6,
cover the saucepan, and let infusion proceed away from the
fire for twenty minutes. Now pour this infusion over two
eggs and six yolks, beaten briskly in a basin, and mix with
the whisk. Strain through muslin, and carefully remove there-
from the froth that has formed. Pour into buttered moulds;
poach in a bain-marie, as in the case of cream, and take great
care that the water in the bain-marie does not boil.

According to the way in which the royale is to be divided,
it may be poached either in large or small "Charlotte"
moulds; but the latter, large and small alike, must be well
buttered.

If the preparation be put into large moulds, thirty-five or
forty minutes should be allowed for poaching ; if, on the other
hand, the moulds are small, about fifteen minutes would suffice.

Always let the royale cool in the moulds.

207— DESLIQNAC OR CREAM ROYALE

Boil one pint of thin cream, and pour it, little by little,
over one egg and six yolks, well whisked in a basin. Season
with a little salt and nutmeg, strain through muslin, and, for
the poaching, follow the directions given above.

208— CHICKEN ROYALE

Finely pound three oz. of cooked white chicken-meat, and
add thereto three tablespoonfuls of cold Bechamel. Put this
paste in a bowl, season with a little salt and a dash of nutmeg,
dilute with one-fifth pint of cream, and strain through tammy.

Thicken this preparation with one egg and the yolks of three,

88 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

and poach in small or large moulds, in accordance with the
procedure already described.

209— GAME ROYALE

Finely pound three oz. of the cooked meat of that game
which gives its name to the preparation, and add three table-
spoonfuls of cold Espagnole Sauce and one-fifth pint of rich
cream, in small quantities at a time. Warm the seasoning with
a very little cayenne, strain through tammy, thicken with one
egg and three yolks, and poach as before.

210— FISH ROYALE

Stew in butter four oz. of fillet of sole cut into cubes, or
the same quantity of any other fish suited to the nature of
the intended soup. Cool, pound finely, and add, little by
little, two tablespoonfuls of cold Bechamel and one-quarter pint
of cream. Season with salt and a pinch of nutmeg, and strain
through tammy. Thicken by means of the yolks of five eggs,
and poach in large or small moulds.

211— CARROT OR CRECY ROYALE

Stew gently in butter five oz. of the red part only of carrots.
Cool, crush in a mortar, and gradually add two tablespoonfuls
of Bechamel and one-fifth pint of rich cream. Season with
table-salt and a pinch of castor sugar, and deepen the tint of
the royale with a few drops of vegetable red. Strain through
tammy, thicken with one egg and four yolks, put into moulds,
and poach.

212— FRESH PEAS OR ST. GERMAIN ROYALE

Cook one-half lb. of fresh, small peas in boiling water with
a bunch of chervil and a few leaves of fresh mint. Pass
through a sieve, and dilute the resulting' pur^e (in a saucepan)
with two-fifths of its volume of the liquor it has been cooked
in and one-fifth of cream. Add a little sugar, the necessary
salt, one egg, and two yolks. Pass through a fine strainer,
and poach in well-buttered moulds.

213— VARIOUS ROY ALES

Royales may also be made with leeks, celery, &c., the
procedure being as follows :■ —

Finely mince six or seven oz. of the chosen vegetable; stew

THE VARIOUS GARNISHES FOR SOUPS 89

the same gently and thoroughly in butter, and strain through
tammy. Add to the resulting pur^e three tablespoonfuls of
Bechamel, one-fifth pint of cream, two eggs, and four yolks.
Put into large or small moulds, and poach.

Remarks. — In order that these royales may have the re-
quired delicacy, I should urge the reader not to exceed the
prescribed quantities of eggs and yolks, these being so calcu-
lated as to exactly produce the density required.

214— THE DIVIDINQ-UP OF ROYALES

When the poaching is done take the mould or moulds out
of water, and leave the royale to cool in them. Do not turn out
the moulds whilst the preparation is hot, as it would surely
scatter. It only assumes the necessary solidity for being
divided up by means of the aggregation and contraction of its
various constituents during the cooling process.

If the royale has been poached in small moulds, slightly trim
the cylinders of royale, divide them up laterally into discs,
and stamp them uniformly with a plain or indented fancy
cutter.

// the royale has been poached in large moulds, withdraw it
from these, and place it on a serviette; trim the tops, cut into
half-inch slices, and stamp with small, fancy cutters of different
shapes. These little divisions of royale must always be stamped
very neatly and quite regularly.

215— CHIFFONADE

The name " Chiffonade ^' is given to a mince of sorrel or
lettuce, intended as a complement for such soups as " Potage
de sant^," " le Germiny," &c., or various clear consommes like
"Julienne."

To prepare Chiffonade, first carefully shred the sorrel or
lettuce, and remove therefrom all the leaf-ribs. Carefully wash
the leaves, and squeeze the latter tightly between the fingers
of the left hand and the table. Now cut them into fine strips
with a sharp knife.

If the chiffonade be intended for a consomm^, add it to the
latter half an hour before dishing up ; it is thus actually cooked
in the soup itself. If, as is most often the case, it be intended
for a thick soup, it is better to let it melt well in butter, to
moisten it with a little consomm^, and to let it boil for ten
minutes before adding it to the soup.

Whatever the purpose be for which it is made, chiffonade
should always be prepared with very tender sorrel or lettuce.

90 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

216— DIRECTIONS FOR SOUP WITH PASTES

Vermicelli and the various Italian pastes should measure
about three oz. per quart of consomm^. They should first
be thrown into boiling, salted water, where they are left to
poach for three minutes, whereupon they are drained, cooled,
and their cooking is completed in the consomm^.

The parboiling of these pastes is necessary in order to get
rid of the little agglomerations of flour which adhere to them,
and which would otherwise make the consomm^ cloudy.

Tapioca, sago, salep, &c., should also be apportioned at
about three oz. per quart. But this is only an average, for the
quality of this kind of products varies greatly, and it is best
to choose the goods of an excellent maker, and, in order to
avoid surprises, to abide by that choice.

These products need no parboiling; they are merely
sprinkled into the boiling consomm^ while stirring the latter,
and they are left to cook until the soup is quite clear. The
boiling should be gentle, and the scum should be removed as
often as it forms.

The time allowed for cooking naturally varies in accord-
ance with the quality of the goods, but the absolute trans-
parency of the consomm^ is an infallible sign of its having
been completed.

Brazilian, Japanese, and other pearls are used in the same
quantities, but they should poach for thirty minutes if required
to be very transparent.

217— THREADED EGGS

Beat up three eggs in a bowl, season with salt and pepper,
and strain through a sieve. Now pour the eggs into a fine
strainer, hold same over a saut^pan containing some boiling
consomm^, and shift it about in such wise as to let the egg
fall in threads into the boiling liquid beneath, and thus imme-
diately coagulate. Drain the egg-threads very carefully lest
they break.

218— PROFITEROLLES FOR SOUPS

These consist of little choux about the size of a large hazel-
nut, stuffed with some kinds of pur^e, such as that of foie gras
with cream, or of chicken, or of vegetables, &c. Four fro-
fiterolles should be allowed for each person.

To make profiterolles, put a few tablespoonfuls of "pate
a choux " without sugar (No. 2374) into a piping-bag fitted with

THE VARIOUS GARNISHES FOR SOUPS 91

a smooth pipe, whose orifice should be about one-quarter inch
in diameter. Squeeze out portions of the preparation on to a
tray, so as to form balls about the size of a small hazel-nut;
gild by means of beaten egg applied with a fine brush, and
cook in a moderate oven.

Do not take the profiterolles from the oven until they are
quite dry.

CHAPTER IX
Garnishing Preparations for Releves and Entr]&es.

219— POTATO CROQUETTES

Cook quickly in salted water two lb. of peeled and quartered
potatoes. As soon, as they seem soft to the finger, drain them,
place them in the front of the oven for a few minutes in order
to dry them, and then tilt them into a sieve lying on a cloth,
and press them through the former without rubbing.

Place the pur^e in a saut^pan ; season with salt, pepper,
and nutmeg; add one oz. of butter, and dry; i.e., stir over a
brisk fire until the pur^e becomes a consistent paste.

Take off the fire, complete with the yolks of three eggs,
well mixed with the rest, and turn the paste out on to a buttered
dish, taking care to spread it in a rather thin layer, so as to
precipitate its cooling. Butter the surface to prevent the pre-
paration's drying.

To make croquettes, equal portions of this paste, i.e., por-
tions weighing about one and one-half oz. of it, are rolled on
a flour-dusted board into the shape of a cork, a ball, or a
quoit. These are now dipped into an Anglaise (No. 174) and
rolled in bread-crumbs or raspings, the latter being well patted
on to the surface of the croquettes, lest they should fall into
the frying fat. Let the patting also avail for finishing off the
selected shape of the objects. These are then plunged into
hot fat, where they should remain until they have acquired a
fine, golden colour.

220— DAUPHINE POTATOES

Prepare as above the required quantity of paste, and add
thereto per lb. six oz. of pate k choux without sugar (No. 2374).

Mix the two constituents thoroughly.

Dauphine potatoes are moulded in the shape of small
cylinders, and they are treated a I' Anglaise, like the croquettes.

GARNISHING FOR RELEVJiS AND ENTRIES 93

221— DUCHESSE POTATOES

These are the same as the croquettes, though they are
differently treated. They are made on a floured board in the
shape of diminutive cottage-loaves, little shuttle-shaped loaves,
small quoits, and lozenges or rectangles. They are gilded with
beaten egg, and when their shape is that of quoits, rectangles,
or lozenges, they are streaked by means of a small knife.

After this operation, which is to prevent the gilding from
blistering, they are baked in the oven for a few minutes previous
to being used in dressing the dishes they accompany.

222— MARQUISE POTATOES

Take one lb. of croquette paste and add thereto six oz. of
very red, reduced tomato-pur^e. Pour this mixture into a bag
fitted with a large, grooved pipe, and squeeze it out upon a
baking-tray in shapes resembling large meringues.

Slightly gild their surfaces with beaten egg, and put them
into the oven for a few minutes before using them to dress the
dish.

223— ORDINARY OR DRY DUXELLE

The uses of Duxelle are legion, and it is prepared thus: —
Slightly fry one teaspoonful of onions in one tablespoonful of
butter and oil mixed. Add to this four tablespoonfuls of mush-
room stalks and parings, chopped and well pressed in a towel
with the view of expelling their vegetable moisture. Stir over
a brisk fire until the latter has completely evaporated; season
with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and one coffeespoonful of well-
chopped parsley, mixing the whole thoroughly.

Transfer to a bowl, cover with a piece of white, buttered
paper, and put aside until wanted.

224— DUXELLE FOR STUFFED VEGETABLES
(Tomatoes, Mushrooms, &c.)

Put six tablespoonfuls of dry duxelle into a small stewpan,
and add thereto three tablespoonfuls of half-glaze sauce con-
taining plenty of tomato, crushed garlic the size of a pea, and
two tablespoonfuls of white wine. Set to simmer until the
required degree of consistence is reached.

]Sj_B. — A tablespoonful of fine, fresh bread-crumbs may be
added to the duxelle in order to thicken it.

94 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

225— DUXELLE FOR GARNISHING SMALL PIES,
ONIONS, CUCUMBERS, ETC.

To four tablespoonfuls of dry duxelle add four tablespoon-
fuls of ordinary pork forcemeat (No. 196).

226 — MAINTENON (preparation used in stuffing
preparations k la Maintenon)

Put one pint of Bechamel into a vegetable-pan with one-
half pint of Soubise (No. 104), and reduce to half while stirring
over a brisk fire. Thicken, away from the fire, by means of the
yolks of five eggs, and add four tablespoonfuls of minced mush-
rooms, either cooked in the ordinary way or stewed in butter.

227— MATIQNON

This preparation serves chiefly for covering certain large
joints of butcher's meat, or fowl, to which it imparts an appro-
priate flavour. It is made as follows : — Finely mince two
medium carrots (the red part only), two onions, and two sticks
of celery taken from the heart. Add one tablespoonful of raw
lean ham, cut paysanne-fashion, a sprig of thyme, and half
a leaf of bay, crushed.

Stew in butter, and finally swill the saucepan with two
tablespoonfuls of Madeira.

228— MIREPOIX

The purpose of Mirepoix in culinary preparations is the
same as that of Matignon, but its mode of use is different.

Its constituents are the same as those of the Matignon, but
instead of being minced they are cut up into more or less fine
dice, in accordance with the use for which the preparation is
intended.

Instead of the ham, fresh and slightly-salted breast of pork
may be used, while both the ham and the bacon may be ex-
cluded under certain circumstances.

229— FINE OR BORDELAISE MIREPOIX

Coarse Mirepoix, which are added to certain preparations
in order to lend these the proper flavour, are generally made
immediately before being used, but this is not so in the case
of the finer Mirepoix, which chiefly serves as an adjunct to
crayfish and lobsters, This is made in advance, and as
follows : —

GARNISHING FOR RELEVES AND ENTREES 95

Cut into dice four oz. of the red part only of carrots, the
same quantity of onion, and one oz. of parsley stalks. In
order that the Mirepoix may be still finer, these ingredients
may now be chopped, but in this case it is advisable to tho-
roughly press them in a corner of a towel, so as to squeeze out
their vegetable moisture, the mere process of stewing not being
sufficient for this purpose.

Should this water be allowed to remain in the Mirepoix,
more particularly if the latter must be kept some time, it would
probably give rise to mustiness or fermentation.

Put the ingredients into a small stewpan with one and one-
half oz. of butter and a little powdered thyme and bay, and
stew until all are well cooked. This done, turn the preparation
out into a small bowl, heap it together with the back of a
fork, cover it with a piece of white, buttered paper, and put
aside until wanted.

230— VARIOUS SALPICONS

This term stands for a certain preparatory method applied to
a series of preparations.

Salpicons are simple or compound. Simple if they only con-
tain one product, such as the meat of a fowl, or of game,
butcher's meat, foie gras, various fish, ham or tongue, mush-
rooms, truffles, &c. Compound if they consist of two or more of
the above-mentioned ingredients which may happen to combine
suitably.

The preparatory method consists in cutting the various in-
gredients into dice.

The series of preparations arises from the many possible com-
binations of the products, each particular combination bearing
its own name.

Thus Salpicons may be Royal, Financier, Chasseur, Parisien,
Montglas, &c. ; of whichever kind, however, Salpicons are
always incorporated with a vehicular sauce which is in accord-
ance with their constituents.

231— BATTER FOR VARIOUS FRITTERS

Put into a bowl one lb. of sifted flour, one-quarter oz. of salt,
one tablespoonful of oil or melted butter, and the necessary
quantity of barely lukewarm water. If the batter is to be used at
once mix the ingredients by turning them over and over with-
out stirring with the spoon, for this would give the preparation an
elasticity which would prevent its adhering to immersed solids.
Should the batter be prepared beforehand, however, it may be

96 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

stirred, since it loses its elasticity when left to stand any length
of time.

Before using it add the whites of two eggs whisked to a froth.

232— BATTER FOR VEGETABLES (Salsify, Celery, &c.)

Put one lb. of sifted flour into a bowl with one-quarter oz. of
salt and two tablespoonfuls of oil or melted butter. Dilute with
one egg and the necessary quantity of cold water. Keep this
batter somewhat thin, do not stir it, and let it rest for a few
hours before using.

333— BATTER FOR FRUIT AND FLOWER FRITTERS

Put one lb. of flour into a bowl with one-quarter oz. of salt
and two tablespoonfuls of oil or melted butter. Dilute gradually
with one-quarter pint of beer and a little tepid water.

When about to use the batter mix therewith the whites of two
eggs whisked to a froth.

N.B. — Keep this batter thin, if anything, and above all do
not stir overmuch.

234— BATTER FOR OVEN-GLAZED FRUIT FRITTERS

Mix one lb. of flour with two tablespoonfuls of oil, a grain of
salt, two eggs (added one after the other), the necessary quantity
of water, and one oz. of sugar. Keep this preparation in a luke-
warm place to let it ferment, and stir it with a wooden spoon be-
fore using it to immerse the solids.

Remarks. — Batter for fruit fritters may contain a few table-
spoonfuls of brandy, in which case an equal quantity of the water
must be suppressed.

235— PROVEN^ALE (preparation for stuffing
cutlets a la Provencale)

Put one pint of Bechamel into a vegetable-pan and reduce it
until it has become quite dense. Thicken it with the yolks of
four eggs, and finish it away from the fire with a crushed piece of
garlic as large as a pea, and one-quarter lb. of grated cheese.

CHAPTER X
Leading Culinary Operations

236— THE PREPARATION OF SOUPS

The nutritious liquids known under the name of Soups are of
comparatively recent origin. Indeed, as they are now served,
they do not date any further back than the early years of the
nineteenth century.

The soups of old cookery were, really, complete dishes,
wherein the meats and vegetables used in their preparation were
assembled. They, moreover, suffered from the effects of the
general confusion which reigned in the menus of those days.
These menus seem to have depended in no wise, for their items,
upon the progressive satisfaction of the consumers' appetites,
and a long procession of dishes was far more characteristic of the
meal tlian their judicious order and diversity.

In this respect, as in so many others, Careme was the re-
former, and, if he were not, strictly speaking, the actual initiator
of the changes which ushered in our present methods, he cer-
tainly had a large share in the establishment of the new theories.

Nevertheless, it took his followers almost a century to bring
soups to the perfection of to-day, for modern cookery has replaced
those stodgy dishes of yore by comparatively simple and savoury
preparations which are veritable wonders of delicacy and taste.
Now, my attention has been called to the desirability of drawing
up some sort of classification of soups, if only with the view of
obviating the absurdity of placing such preparations as are in-
discriminately called Bisque, Pur^e, CuUis, or Cream under the
same head. Logically, each preparation should have its own
special formula, and it is impossible to admit that one and the
same can apply to all.

It is generally admitted that the terms Veloutes and
Creams, whose introduction into the vocabulary of cookery
is comparatively recent, are peculiarly well suited to sup-
plant those of Bisque and Cullis, which are steadily becoming
obsolete, as well as that too vulgar term Puree. Considerations

H

98 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

of this kind naturally led me to a new classification of soups, and
this I shall disclose later.

I shall not make any lengthy attempt here to refute the argu-
ments of certain autocrats of the dinner-table who, not so many
years ago, urged the total abolition of soups. I shall only
submit to their notice the following quotation from Grimod de la
Regni^re, one of our most illustrious gastronomists : " Soup is
to a dinner what the porch or gateway is to a building," that is to
say, it must not only form the first portion thereof, but it must be
so devised as to convey some idea of the whole to which it be-
longs ; or, after the manner of an overture in a light opera, it
should divulge what is to be the dominant phrase of the melody
throughout.

I am at one with Grimod in this, and believe that soups have
come to stay. Of all the items on a menu, soup is that which
exacts the most delicate perfection and the strictest attention, for
upon the first impression it gives to the diner the success of the
latter part of the meal largely depends.

Soups should be served as hot as possible in very wkrm plates,
especially in the case of consommes when these have been pre-
ceded by cold hors-d'oeuvres.

Hors-d'oeuvres are pointless in a dinner, and even when
oysters stand as such they should only be allowed at meals which
include no soup.

Those hors-d'oeuvres which consist of various fish, smoked
or in oil, and strongly seasoned salads, leave a disagreeable taste
on the consumer's palate and make the soup which follows seem
flat and insipid if the latter be not served boiling hot.

Classification of Soups

This includes (i) clear soups, (2) thick soups, (3) special soups
of various kinds, (4) classical vegetable soups, including some
local preparations.

237— CLEAR SOUPS

Clear soups, of whatever nature the base thereof may be,
whether butcher's meat, poultry, game, fish, shell-fish, or
turtle, &c., are made according to one method only. They are
always clear consommes to which has been added a slight gar-
nish in keeping with the nature of the consomm^.

LEADING CULINARY OPERATIONS 99

238— THICK SOUPS

These are divided into three leacling classes as follows : — (i)
The Purees, Cullises, or Bisques. (2) Various Veloutt^s. (3)
Various Creams.

Remarks. — Though the three preparations of the first class
are practically the same, and, generally speaking, the Cul-
lises and the Bisques may be considered as purees of fowl, game,
or shell-fish, it is advisable to distinguish one from another by
giving each a special name of its own.

Thus the word Puree is most suitably applied to any pre-
paration with a vegetable base. The term Cullis is best fitted to
preparations having either poultry, game, or fish for base,
while bisque, in spite of the fact that in former days it was
applied indiscriminately to purees of shell-fish, poultry, pigeons,
&€., distinctly denotes a pur^e of shell-fish (either lobster, cray-
fish, or shrimp, &c.).

In short, it is imperative to avoid all ambiguities and to give
everything its proper name, or, at least, that name which identi-
fies it most correctly.

239— PUREES

Farinaceous vegetables, such as haricot-beans and lentils,
and the floury ones, such as the potato, need no additional
thickening ingredient, since the flour or fecula which they con-
tain amply suffices for the leason of their purees.

On the other hand, aqueous vegetables like carrots, pump-
kins, turnips, celery, and herbs cannot dispense with a thicken-
ing ingredient, as their purees of themselves do not cohere in
the least.

Cohering or Thickening Elements; their Quantities, — In
order to effect the coherence of vegetable purees, either rice,
potato, or bread-crumb cut into dice and fried in butter may be
used.

The proportion of these per pound of vegetables should be
respectively three oz., ten oz., and ten oz. Bread-crumb dice,
prepared as described above, were greatly used in old cookery,
and they lend a mellowness to a puree which is quite peculiar to
them.

The Dilution of Purees. — Generally this is done by means of
ordinary white consomm6, though in certain cases, as, for in-
stance, if the soup is a Lenten one, milk is used.

The Finishing.— When the purees have been strained and
brought to the required consistence they should be boiled and
stirred. Then they are placed on the side of the fire to simmer

H 2

loo GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

for twenty-five or thirty minutes. It is at this stage that they are
purified by means of the careful removal of all the scum that
forms on their surface.

When dishing up complete them, away from the fire, with
three oz. of butter per quart of soup, and pass them once more
i^hrough a strainer.

Puree Garnishes. — These are usually either small fried crusts,
small dice of potato fried in butter, a chiffonade, some kind of
little brunoise, or, more generally, chervil pluches.

240— CULLISES

Cullises have for their base either poultry, game, or fish.

The thickening ingredients used are : —

For fowl, two or three oz. of rice, or three-quarters pint of
poultry velout6 per lb. of fowl.

For game, three or four oz. of lentils, or three-quarters pint
of game Espagnole per lb. of game.

For fish, a clear panada made up of French bread soaked
in boiling salted milk. Use five oz. of bread and one good pint
of milk per lb. of fish. Having strained and made up the
Cullises, boil them while stirring (except in the case of fish
cullises, which must not boil, and must be served as soon as they
are made), then place them in a bain-marie and butter their
surfaces lest a skin should form.

At the last moment complete them with two or three oz.
of butter per quart.

The garnish of poultry or game cullises consists of either
small dice of game or fowl-fillets, which should be kept aside
for the purpose; a fine julienne of these fillets, or small quen-
elles made from the latter, raw.

The garnish of fish cuUis is generally fish-fillets poached in
butter and cut up into small dice or in julienne-fashion.

241— BISQUES

The invariable base of Bisques is shell-fish cooked in mire-
poix.

Their thickening ingredients are, or may be, rice, fish
velout^, or crusts of bread fried in butter, the proportion being
three oz. of rice, ten oz. of bread-crusts, or three-quarters pint
of fish velout^ per lb. of shell-fish cooked in mirepoix (No. 228).

When the soup is strained, treat it in precisely the same
way as the cullises.

The garnish consists of small dice of the meat from the

LEADING CULINARY OPERATIONS loi

shell-fish used. These pieces should have been put aside from
the first.

242— THE VELOUTES

These differ from the purees, cullises, and bisques in that
their invariable thickening element is a velout^ whose prepara-
tion is in harmony with the nature of the ingredients of the soup,
these being either vegetables, poultry, game, fish, or shell-fish.

The Preparation of the Veloute. — Allow three and one-half
oz. of white roux per quart of the diluent. This diluent should
be ordinary consomm^ for a velout^ of vegetables or herbs,
chicken consomm^ for a poultry veloutd, or very clear fish fumet
for a fish or shell-fish velout^. The procedure is exactly the
same as that described under No. 26 of the leading sauces.

The apportionment of the Ingredients. — In general, the
quantities of each constituent are in the following proportion : —
Velout^, one-half ; the pur^e of the substance which character-
ises the soup, one-quarter; the consomm^ used to bring the
soup to its proper consistence, one-quarter. In respect of finish-
ing ingredients, use, for thickening, the yolks of three eggs and
one-fifth pint of cream per quart of soup.

Thus for four quarts of poultry velout^ we arrive at the
following quantities : —

Poultry velout^, three pints; puree of fowl obtained from a
cleaned and drawn hen weighing about three lbs., one quart ;
consomm^ for regulating consistence, one quart; leason, twelve
yolks and four-fifths pint of cream.

Rules Relative to the Preparation. — If the velout^ is to be
of lettuce, chicory, celery, or mixed herbs, these ingredients
are scalded for five minutes, drained, gently stewed in butter,
and added to the prepared veloute in which their cooking is
completed.

If carrots, turnips, onions, &c., are to be treated, finely mince
them, stew them in butter without allowing them to acquire any
colour, and add them to the veloute.

If fowl be the base, cook it in the velout^. This done, with-
draw it, remove the meat, finely pound same, and add it to
the veloute, which is then rubbed through tammy.

In the case of fish the procedure is the same as for fowl.
For game, roast or saute the selected piece, bone it, finely pound
the meat, and combine the latter with the velout^, which should
then be rubbed through tammy.

For shell-fish, cook these in a mirepoix, finely pound them
together with the latter, add to the veloute, and pass the whole
through tammy,

102 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

The Completing of Veloute. — Having passed the soup
through tammy, bring it to its proper degree of consistence
with the necessary quantity of consomm^, boil while stirring,
and place in a bain-marie.

At the last moment finish the soup with the leason and two
oz. of butter per quart of liquid.

Garnish for Veloute. — In the case of vegetables : Chiffonade,
fine printaniers, or brunoise.

For fowl and game : The fillets of one or the other, poached
and cut into small dice or in julienne-fashion; little quenelles
made with the raw fillets, or either fowl or game royales.

For fish : Small dice or fine julienne of fish fillets poached
in butter.

For shell-fish : Small dice of cooked shell-fish meat put aside
for the purpose.

Remarks. — In certain circumstances these garnishes are in-
creased by means of three tablespoonfuls of poached rice per
quart of the soup.

243— THE CREAMS

Practically speaking, the preparation of the creams is the
same as that of the veloutes, but for the following exceptions : —

1. In all circumstances, i.e., whatever be the nature of the
soup, velout^ is substituted for clear Bechamel.

2. The correct consistence of the soup is got by means of
milk instead of consomm^.

3. Creams do not require egg-yolk leasons.

4. They are not buttered, but they are finished with one-fifth
or two-fifths pint of fresh cream per quart.

Creams allow of the same garnishes as the veloutes.

244- SPECIAL SOUPS AND THICKENED CONSOMMES

These are of different kinds, though their preparation
remains the same, and they do not lend themselves to the re-
quirements of veloutes or creams. I should quote as types of
this class the Ambassador, a I'Americaine, Darblay, Faubonne,
&c.

The same holds good with thickened consommes, such as
" Germiny," " Coquelin," &c.

245— VEGETABLE SOUPS

These soups, of which the " Paysanne " is the radical type,
do not demand very great precision in the apportionment of

LEADING CULINARY OPERATIONS 103

the vegetables of which they are composed ; but they need great
care and attention, notwithstanding.

The vegetables, in the majority of cases, must undergo a
long stewing in butter, an operation the object of which is to
expel their vegetable moisture and to saturate them with butter.

In respect of others which have a local character, the vege-
tables should be cooked with the diluent, without a preparatory
stewing.

246— FOREIGN SOUPS

In the course of Part II. of this work I shall allude to certain
soups which have a foreign origin, and whose use, although it
may not be general, is yet sufficiently common. If only for the
sake of novelty or variety, it is occasionally permissible to poach
upon the preserves of foreign nations; but apart from this
there exist among the recipes of foreigners many which can but
enrich their adopter, besides being generally appreciated.

I04 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

2. Braising, Poaching, Sautes, and Poeling.

Except for the roasts, grills, and fryings, which will be dis-
cussed later, all culinary operations dealing with meat are re-
lated to one of the four following methods : Braising, poeling,
poaching, and sautes.

These four methods of cooking belong, however, to the
sauces, and this explains how it is that the latter hold such a
pre-eminent position in French cookery.

Before devoting any attention to particular formulae, which
will be given in the second part of this work, it seemed desirable
to me to recapitulate in a general way the theory of each of these
cooking methods. These theories are of paramount importance,
since it is only with a complete knowledge of them that good
results may be obtained by the culinary operator.

247— ORDINARY BRAISINQS

Of all the various culinary operations, braisings are the most
expensive and the most difficult. Long and assiduous practice
alone can teach the many difficulties that this mode of procedure
entails, for it is one which demands extraordinary care and
the most constant attention. Over and above the question of
care and that of the quality of meat used, which latter considera-
tion is neither more nor less important here than in any other
cooking operation, there are also these conditions to be fulfilled
in order that a good braising may be obtained, namely, that
excellent stock should be used in moistening, and that the
braising base be well prepared.

Meats that are Braised. — Mutton and beef are braised in the
ordinary way, but veal, lamb, and poultry are braised in a
manner which I shall treat of later.

Meat intended for braising need not, as in the case of roasts,
be that of young beasts. The best for the purpose is that
derived from an animal of three to six years of age in the case
of beef, and one to two years in the case of mutton. Good meat
is rarely procured from animals more advanced than these in
years, and, even so, should it be used, it would not only be
necessary to protract the time of cooking inordinately, but the
resulting food would probably be fibrous and dry.

Properly speaking, meat derived from old or ill-nourished
beasts only answers two purposes in cookery, viz., the prepara-
tion of consommes and that of various kinds of stock.

LEADING CULINARY OPERATIONS 105

The Larding of Meats for Braising. — When the meat to be
braised is ribs or fillet of beef, it is always interlarded, and con-
sequently never dry if of decent quality. But this is not the
case with the meat of the rumps, or with leg of mutton. These
meats are not sufficiently fat of themselves to allow of prolonged
cooking without their becoming dry. For this reason they are
larded with square strips of bacon fat, which should be as long
as the meat under treatment, and about half an inch thick.
These strips of fat are first seasoned with pepper, nutmeg, and
spices, besprinkled with chopped parsley, and then marinaded
for two hours in a little brandy. They should be inserted into
the meat equidistantly by means of special larding needles.
The proportion of fat to the meat should be about three oz.
per lb.

To Marinade Braisings. — Larded or not, the meats intended
for braising gain considerably from being marinaded for a few
hours in the wines which are to supply their moistening and
the aromatics constituting the base of their liquor. Before doing
this season them with salt, pepper, and spices, rolling them
over and over in these in order that they may absorb the season-
ing thoroughly. Then place them in a receptacle just large
enough to contain them, between two litters of aromatics, which
will be detailed hereafter; cover them with the wine which forms
part of their braising-liquor, and which is generally a white or
red " vin ordinaire," in the proportion of one-quarter pint per
lb. of meat, and leave them to marinade for about six hours,
taking care to turn them over three or four times during that
period.

The Aromatics or Base of the Braising. — These are thickly
sliced and fried carrots and onions, in the proportion of one oz.
per lb. of meat, one faggot, including one garlic clove and one
and one-half oz. of fresh, blanched bacon-rind.

To Fry, Prepare, and Cook Braised Meat. — Having suf-
ficiently marinaded the meat, drain it on a sieve for half an hour,
and wipe it dry with a clean piece of linen. Heat some clarified
fat of white consomm^ in a thick saucepan of convenient size, or
a braising-pan, and when it is sufficiently hot put the meat in
the saucepan and let it acquire colour on all sides. The object
of this operation is to cause a contraction of the pores of the
meat, thereby surrounding the latter with a species of cuirass,
which prevents the inner juices from escaping too soon and
converting the braising into a boiling process. The frying
should, therefore, be a short or lengthy process according as to
whether the amount of meat to be braised be small or large,

io6 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

Having properly fried the meat, withdraw it from the
braising-pan, cover it with slices of larding-bacon if it be lean,
and string it. In the case of fillets and ribs of beef, this treat-
ment may be dispensed with, as they are sufficiently well
supplied with their own fat.

Now pour the marinade prepared for the meat into the
braising-pan, and place the meat on a litter composed of the
vegetables the marinade contained. Cover the pan and rapidly
reduce the wine therein. When this has assumed the consist-
ency of syrup add sufficient brown stock to cover the meat (it
being understood that the latter only just conveniently fills the
pan), cover the braising-pan, set to boil, and then put it in a
moderate oven. Let the meat cook until it may be deeply pricked
with a braiding needle without any blood being drawn. At
this stage the first phase of braising, whereof the theory shall be
given hereafter, comes to an end, and the meat is transferred
to another clean utensil just large enough to hold it.

With respect to the cooking liquor, either of the two fol-
lowing modes of procedure may now be adopted : —

1. If the liquor is required to be clear it need only be
strained, over the meat, through muslin, while the braising-pan
should be placed in the oven, where the cooking may go on
until completed, interrupting it only from time to time in order
to baste the meat. This done, thicken the liquor with arrow-
root, after the manner of an ordinary thickened gravy (No. 41).

2. If, on the contrary, a sauce be required, the liquor should
be reduced to half before being put back on the meat, and it
is restored to its former volume by means of two-thirds of its
quantity of Espagnole sauce and one-third of tomato pur^e, or
an equivalent quantity of fresh tomatoes.

The cooking of the meat is completed in this sauce, and
the basting should be carried on as before. When it is cooked
— that is to say, when the point of a knife may easily be thrust
into it without meeting with any resistance whatsoever — it
should be carefully withdrawn from the sauce ; the latter should
be again strained through muslin and then left to rest, with a
view to letting the grease settle on the surface.

Carefully remove this grease, and rectify the sauce with a
little excellent stock if it is too thick, or by reduction if it is
too thin.

The Glazing of Braised Meat. — Braised meat is glazed in
order to make it more sightly, but this operation is by no means
essential, and it is quite useless when the meat is cut up previous
to being served.

I.EADING CULINARY OPERATIONS 107

To glaze meat place it as soon as cooked in the front of the
oven, sprinkle it slightly with its cooking liquor (gravy or
sauce), and push it into the oven so that this liquor may dry.
Being very gelatinous, the latter adheres to the meat, while its
superfluous water evaporates, and thus coats the solid with a
thin film of meat-glaze. This operation is renewed eight or
ten times, whereupon the meat is withdrawn from the oven,
placed on a dish, and covered until it is served.

Various Remarks relative to Braising. — When a braised
meat is to be accompanied by vegetables, as in the case of beef
a la mode, these vegetables may either be cooked with the meat
during the second braising phase, after they have been duly
coloured in butter with a little salt and sugar, or they may be
cooked separately with a portion of the braising-liquor. The
first procedure is the better, but it lends itself less to a correct
final dressing. It is, therefore, the operator's business to decide
according to circumstances which is the more suitable of the
two.

I pointed out above that the cooking of braised meat con-
sists of two phases, and I shall now proceed to discuss each
of these, so that the reader may thoroughly understand their
processes.

It has been seen that meat, to be braised, must in the first
place be fried all over, and this more particularly when it is
very thick. The object of this operation is to hold in the meat's
juices, which would otherwise escape from the cut surfaces.
Now, this frying produces a kind of cuirass around the flesh,
which gradually thickens during the cooking process until it
reaches the centre. Under the influence of the heat of the sur-
rounding liquor the meat fibres contract, and steadily drive the
contained juices towards the centre. Soon the heat reaches the
centre, where, after having effected a decomposition of the juices
therein collected, the latter release the superfluous water they
contain. This water quickly vaporises, and by so doing dis-
tends and separates the tissues surrounding it. Thus, during
this first phase, a concentration of juices takes place in the
centre of the meat. It will now be seen that they undergo an
absolutely different process in the second.

As shown, the disaggregation of the muscular tissue begins
in the centre of the meat as soon as the temperature which
reaches there is sufficiently intense to vaporise the collected
juices. The tension of the vapour given off by the latter per-
force increases by dint of finding no issue; it therefore exerts
considerable pressure upon the tissues, though now its direction

io8 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

is the reverse of what it was in the first place, i.e., from the
centre to the periphery.

Gradually the tissues relax under the pressure and the effects
of cooking, and, the work of disaggregation having gradually
reached the fried surface, the latter also relaxes in its turn and
allows the constrained juices to escape and to mix with the
sauce. At the same time, however, the latter begins to filter
through the meat, and this it does in accordance with a well-
known physical law, namely, capillarit}'^. This stage of the
braising demands the most attentive care. The braising-liquor
is found to be considerably reduced and no longer covers the
meat, for the operation is nearing its end. The bared meat
would, therefore, dry very quickly, if care were not taken to
baste it constantly and to turn it over and over, so that the
whole of the muscular tissue is moistened and thoroughly
saturated with the sauce. By this means the meat acquires that
mellowness which is typical of braisings and distinguishes them
from other preparations.

I should be loth to dismiss this subject before pointing out
two practices in the cooking of braisings which are as common
as they are absolutelv wrong. The first of these is the
" pinca^e " of the braising base. Instead of laying the fried
meat on a litter of aromatics, likewise fried beforehand, many
operators place the meat, which they often omit to fry, on raw
aromatics at the bottom of the braising-pan. The whole is
sprinkled with a little melted fat, and the aromatics are left to
fry, on one side only, until they begin to burn on the bottom
of the receptacle.

If this operation were properlv conducted it might be
tolerated, even though aromatics which are only fried on one
side cannot exude the same savour as those which are fried all
over. But nine times out of ten the frying is too lengthy a
process ; from neglect or absent-mindedness the aromatics are
left to burn on the bottom of the pan, and there results a
bitterness which pervades and spoils the whole sauce.

As a matter of fact, this process of " pingage " is an absurd
caricature of a method of preparing braisings which was very
common in old cookery, the custom of which was not to prepare
the braising-liquor in advance, but to cook it and its ingredients
simultaneously with the meat to be braised. This method,
though excellent, was very expensive, the meats forming the
base of the braising-liquor consisting of thick slices of raw
ham or veal. The observance of economy, therefore, long ago
compelled cooks to abandon this procedure. But routine has

LEADING^CULINARY OPERATIONS 109

perpetuated the form of the latter without insisting upon the
use of its constituents, wliich were undoubtedly its essential
part. Routine has even, in certain cases, aggravated the first
error by instituting a habit consisting of substituting bones for
the meats formerly employed — an obviously ridiculous practice.

In the production of ordinary consomme (No. i) we saw that
bones, even when taken from veal, as is customary in the case
of braising-liquor, require, at the very least, ten to twelve hours
of cooking before they can yield all their soluble properties.
As a proof of this it is interesting to note that, if bones undergo
only five or six hours of cooking, and are moistened afresh and
cooked for a further six hours, the liquor of the second cooking
yields more meat-glaze than that of the first ; though it must be
admitted that, while the latter is more gelatinous, it has less
savour. But this gelatinous property of bones is no less useful
to braisings than is their savour, since it is the former that
supplies the mellowness, which nothing can replace and without
which the sauce can have no quality.

Since, therefore, the longest time that a braising can cook
is from four to five hours, it follows that^ if bones be added
thereto, their properties will scarcely have begun disaggregating
when the meat is cooked. They will, in fact, have yielded but
an infinitesimal portion of these properties; wherefore their
addition to the braising is, to say the least, quite useless.

It now remains to be proved that the above method is bad
from another point of view.

I suppose I need not fear contradiction when I assert that,
in order that a braising may be good, its sauce should be short
and correspondingly substantial; also that the sauce obtained
from a piece of meat moistened with a quart of liquid cannot
be so good as that resulting from the moistening of a pint only.

It is more particularly on this account that I advise a braising
utensil which can only just hold the meat, for since, in the firfat
stage, the meat is only moistened with the braising-liquor, the
smaller the receptacle may be the less liquor will it require,
and the latter will in consequence be the tastier. Hence, if
bones be added to the braising, the utensil must necessarily be
larger, and a greater quantity of braising-liquor must be used.
But this liquor will not be nearly so savoury as that obtained
from the process I recommend; in fact, it will be but a rather
strong broth, quite unfit for the impregnation of the meat,
and the final result will be a tasteless lump of fibre instead of a
succulent braising.

I must apologise to the reader for my insistence with regard

I lo GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

to these questions, but their importance is such that success is
beyond reach in the matter of brown sauces and braisings unless
the above details have been thoroughly grasped. Moreover, the
explanations given will afford considerable help in the under-
standing of operations which I shall give later; therefore it is
to be hoped that the examination of the theories involved,
however long this has been, will prove of use and assistance.

248— BRAISING OF WHITE MEATS

The braising of white meats as it is now effected in modern
cookery is, strictly speaking, not braising at all, inasmuch as
the cooking is stopped at the close of the first of the two phases
which I mentioned when discussing brown braisings. True,
old cookery did not understand braising in the way that the
modern school does, and under the ancient regime large pieces,
especially of veal, were frequently cooked until they could
almost be scooped with a spoon. This practice has been gene-
rally, though mistakenly, eschewed, but its name-survives.

White braisings are made with the neck, the saddle, the loin,
the fillets, the fricandeaus, and the sweet-bread of veal, young
turkeys and fat pullets, and sometimes, though less frequently,
relev^s of lamb, hindquarters or saddle. The procedure is the
same for all these meats; the time of cooking alone varies in
accordance with their size. The aromatics are the same as
those of the brown braisings, but the frying of them is optional.

The moistening liquor is brown veal stock (No. 9).

Mode of Procedure. — Except for the veal sweet-bread, which
is always blanched before being braised, the meats or poultry
to be treated may always be slightly stiffened and browned in
butter, on all sides. This is not essential in all cases, but I
think that when they do undergo something of the kind they
dry less quickly. Now place them in a utensil just large enough
to hold them and deep enough to keep the lid from touching
them. Place the aromatics under them and moisten with a little
veal stock; set to boil on a moderate fire, and reduce the veal
stock with the lid on. When this stock has assumed the con-
sistence of a glaze, add a further similar quantity of fresh stock,
and reduce as before. The third time moisten the veal until it
is half covered, and push the pan into a moderate oven.

The meat needs constant basting while it cooks, in order
to avoid its drying; and, as the stock is very gelatinous, it
forms a coating on the surface which resists the evaporation of
the contained juices; for these, being insufficiently constrained
by the slight frying the meat has undergone, tend to vaporise
under the influence of the heat.

LEADING CULINARY OPERATIONS iii

It is for this reason that the stock must be reduced to a
glaze before finally moistening. If the moistening were all
done at once, the liquor would not be sufficiently dense to
form the coating mentioned above, and the meat would con-
sequently dry on being set to cook.

Braised white meat is known to be cooked when, after having
deeply pricked it with a braiding needle, it exudes an absolutely
colourless liquid. This liquid denotes that the piece is cooked
to the centre, and as a result thereof the blood has decom-
posed.

There lies the great difference between brown braisings and
white-meat braisings. The latter are practically roasts, and
they should not be made with any but young poultry or meats,
very fat and tender, for they cannot go beyond their correct
time of cooking, which equals that of roasts, without imme-
diately losing all their quality. A quarter of an hour too much in
the cooking of a kernel of veal weighing about six lbs. is enough
to make the meat dry and unpalatable, and to thoroughly spoil
it, whereas a brown braising cannot be over-cooked, provided
it do not burn.

White braised meats are generally glazed, and this process
is especially recommended for larded pieces, which, though less
common nowadays than formerly, can still claim many
votaries.

249— POACHINQS

However nonsensical it may sound, the best possible de-
finition of a poaching is a boiling that does not boil. The
term -poach is extended to all slow processes of cooking which
involve the use of a liquor, however small. Thus the term
poach applies to the cooking in court-botiillon of large pieces
of turbot and salmon, as well as to fillets of sole cooked with
a little fish fumet, to hot mousselines and mousses, cooked in
moulds, to quenelles which are cooked in salted water, to eggs
announced as "poached," to creams, various royales, &c. It
will readily be seen that among so many different products, the
time allowed for the cooking in each case must differ some-
times widely from the rest. The treatment of them all, how-
ever, is subject to this unalterable principle, namely, that the
poaching liquor must not boil, though it should reach a degree
of heat as approximate as possible to boiling-point. Another
principle is that large pieces of fish or poultry be set to boll
in cold liquor, after which the latter is brought to the required
temperature as rapidly as possible. The case may be the
same with fillets of sole, or poultry, which are poached almost

ti2 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

dry ; but all other preparations whose mode of cooking is
poaching gain by being immersed in liquor which has reached
the required temperature beforehand.

Having regard to the multitudinous forms and kinds of pro^
ducts that are poached, it would be somewhat difficult to state
here the details and peculiarities proper to each iti the matter
of poaching; I think, therefore, I should do better to leave
these details to the respective recipes of each product, though it
will now be necessary to disclose the way of poaching poultry,
if only with a view to thoroughly acquainting the reader with
the theory propounded above.

Properly prepare the piece of poultry to be poached, and
truss it with its feet folded back alongside of the breast.

If it is to be stuffed, this should be done before trussing.

If it is to be larded or studded, either with truffles, ham,
or tongue, rub it when trussed on the fillets and legs with half
a lemon, and dip the same portions of its body (namely, those
to be larded or studded) for a few moments in boiling white
stock. The object of this operation is to slightly stiffen the
skin, thus facilitating the larding or studding.

The Cooking of the Piece of Poultry. — Having stuffed,
larded, or studded it, if necessary, and having, in any case,
trussed it, place it in a receptacle just large enough to hold it,
and moisten with some excellent white stock previously pre-
pared.

Set to boil, skim, put the lid on, and continue the cooking
at a low simmer. It is useless to work too quickly, as the
operation would not be shortened a second by so doing. The
only results would be : —

1. Too violent evaporation, which would reduce the liquor
and disturb its limpidness.

2. The running of a considerable risk of bursting the piece
of poultry, especially when the latter is stuffed.

The fowl, or whatever it may be, is known to be cooked
when, after pricking the thick of the leg close to the "drum-
stick," the issuing liquid is white.

Remarks. — (a) The need of poaching poultry in a receptacle
just large enough to hold the piece is accounted for as follows :
(i) The piece must be wholly immersed in the stock during the
cooking process. (2) As the liquor used is afterwards served
as an accompanying sauce to the dish, the less there is of it
the more saturated does it become with the juices of the meat,
and, consequently, the better it is.

(b) (i) The white stock used in poaching should be pre-
pared beforehand, and be very clear.

LEADING CULINARY OPERATIONS 113

(2) If the piece of poultry were set to cook with the products
constituting the stock, even if these were more than liberally
apportioned, the result would be bad, for inasmuch as a fowl,
for example, can only take one and one-half hours, at the most,
to cook, and the time required for extracting the nutritious and
aromatic principles from the constituents of the stock would
be at least six hours, it follows that the fowl would be cooking
in little more than hot water, and the resulting sauce would
be quite devoid of savour.

250— POELINQS

Poelings are, practically speaking, roasts, for the cooking
periods of each are the same, except that the former are cooked
entirely or almost entirely with butter. They represent a sim-
plified process of old cookery, which consisted in enveloping
the object to be treated, after frying it, in a thick coating of
Matignon. It was then wrapped with thin slices of pork fat,
covered with buttered paper, placed in the oven or on a spit,
and basted with melted butter while it cooked. This done, its
grease was drained away, a;nd the vegetables of the matignon
were inserted in the braising-pan wherein the piece had cooked,
or in a saucepan, and were moistened with excellent Madeira or
highly seasoned stock. Then, when the liquor had thoroughly
absorbed the aroma of the vegetables, it was strained, and its
grease was removed just before dishing up. This excellent
method is worthy of continued use in the case of large pieces
of poultry.

Preparation of Peeled Meats. — Pl&ce in the bottom of a deep
and thick receptacle, just large enough to hold the piece to be
poeled, a layer of raw matignon (No. 227). The meat or piece
of poultry is placed on the vegetables after it has been well
seasoned, and is copiously sprinkled with melted butter; cover
the utensil, and push it into an oven whose heat is not too
fierce. Set it to cook gently in this way, after the manner of a
stew, and frequently sprinkle with melted butter.

When the meats or the pieces of poultry are cooked, the
utensil is uncovered so that the former may acquire a fine colour ;
then they are transferred to a dish which should be kept
covered until taken to the table. Now add to the vegetables
(which must not be burned) a sufficient quantity of brown
veal stock (No. 9), transparent and highly seasoned; set the
whole to boil gently for ten minutes, strain through a serviette,
carefully remove all grease from the poeling stock and send
it to the table in a sauceboat at the same time as the meat
or poultry, which, by the bye, is generally garnished.

114 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

Remarks on Poelings. — It is of paramount importance that
these be not moistened during the process of cooking, for in
that case their savour would be the same as that of braised
white meats.

Nevertheless, an exception may be made in the case of such
feathered game as pheasants, partridges, and quails, to which
is added, when nearly cooked, a small quantity of burnt brandy.

It is also very important that the vegetables should not have
their grease removed before their moistening stock is added to
them. The butter used in the cooking absorbs a large propor-
tion of the savour of both the vegetables and the meat under
treatment, and, to make good this loss, it is essential that the
moistening stock remain at least ten minutes in contact with
the butter. At the end of this time it may be removed without
in the least impairing the aroma of the stock.

Special Poelings known as "En Casserole," or "En
Cocotle." — The preparations of butcher's meats, of poultry, or
game, known as "en casserole " or "en cocotte," are actual
poelings cooked in special earthenware utensils and served in
the same. Generally, preparations known as " en casserole "
are simply cooked in butter, without the addition of vegetables.

When the cooking is done, the piece under treatment is
withdrawn for a moment, and some excellent brown veal stock
(No. 9) is poured into the utensil. This is left to simmer for
a few minutes; the superfluous butter is then removed; the
piece is returned to the earthenware utensil, and it is kept hot,
without being allowed to boil, until it is dished up.

For preparations termed "en cocotte," the procedure is the
same, except that the piece is garnished with such vegetables
as mushrooms, the bottoms of artichokes, small onions, carrots,
turnips, &c., which are either turned or regularly pared, and
half cooked in butter before being used.

One should endeavour to use only fresh vegetables, and
these should be added to the piece constituting the dish in such
wise as to complete their cooking with it.

The earthenware utensils used for this purpose improve with
use, provided they be cleaned with clean, fresh water, without
any soda or soap. If new utensils have to be used, these
should be filled with water, which is set to boil, and they should
then undergo at least twelve hours' soaking. For the pre-
scribed time this water should be kept gently boiling, and then
the utensil should be well wiped and soaked anew, in fresh
water, before being used.

LeadinC culinary operations 1 15

251— THE SAUTES

What characterises the process we call " saut^ " is that the
object treated is cooked dry — that is to say, solely by means of
a fatty substance such as butter, oil, or grease.

Sautes are made with cut-up fowl or game, or with butcher's
meat suitably divided up for the purpose.

All products treated in this way must be frizzled — that is
to say, they must be put into the fat when it is very hot in order
that a hardened coating may form around them which will
keep their juices within. This is more particularly desirable
for red meats such as beef and mutton.

The cooking of fowl sautes must, after the meats have been
frizzled, be completed on the stove or, with lid off, in the oven,
where they should be basted with butter after the manner of a
roast.

The pieces are withdrawn from the utensil with a view to
swilling the latter, after which, if they be put back into the sauce
or accompanying garnish, they should only remain therein a
few moments or just sufficiently long to become properly warm.

The procedure is the same for game sautes.

Sautes of butcher's meats (red meats), such as tournedos,
kernels, cutlets, fillets, and noisettes, are always effected on the
stove; the meats are frizzled and cooked with a small quantity
of clarified butter.

The thinner and smaller they are, the more rapidly should
the frizzling process be effected.

When blood appears on the surface of their raw side, they
should be turned over; when drops of blood begin to bedew
their other side, they are known to be cooked.

The swilling of the utensil obtains in all sautes. After
having withdrawn the treated product from the saucepan, re-
move the grease and pour the condimentary liquid (a wine), that
forms part of the accompanying sauce, into the saucepan.

Set to boil, so that the solidified gravy lying on the bottom
may dissolve, and add the sauce; or simply add the swilling
liquid to the prepared sauce or accompanying garnish of the
saut^. The utensil used must always be just large enough to
hold the objects to be treated. If it be too large, the parts left
uncovered by the treated meats burn, and swilling is then im-
possible, whence there results a loss of the solidified gravy,
which is an important constituent in the sauce.

Sautes of white, butcher's meats, such as veal and lamb, must
also be frizzled in hot fat, but their cooking must be completed
gently on the side of the fire, and in many cases v>'ith lid on.

n6 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

Preparations of a mixed nature, which partly resemble
sautes and partly braisings, are also called sautes. Stews, how-
ever, is their most suitable name.

These dishes are made from beef, veal, lamb, game, &c.,
and they are to be found in Part II. under the headings Es-
touffade; Goulah; Sautt^s : Chasseur, Marengo, Bourgeoise;
Navarin ; Civet; &c.

In the first stage of their preparation, the meats are cut up
small and fried like those of the sautes; in the second, slow
cooking with sauce or garnish makes them akin to braised
meats.

3. Roasts, Grills, Fryings.
Roasts.

Of the two usual methods of roasting, the spit will always
be used in preference to the oven, if only on account of the
conditions under which the operation is effected, and whatever
be the kind of fuel used — wood, coal, or gas.

The reason of this preference is clear if it be remembered
that, in spite of every possible precaution during the progress
of an oven roast, it is impossible to avoid an accumulation of
vapour around the cooking object in a closed oven. And this
steam is more particularly objectionable inasmuch as it is ex-
cessive in the case of delicately flavoured meats, which latter
are almost if not entirely impaired thereby.

The spitted roast, on the contrary, cooks in the open in a
dry atmosphere, and by this means retains its own peculiar
flavour. Hence the unquestionable superiority of spitted roasts
over the oven kind, especially in respect of small feathered
game.

In certain circumstances and places there is no choice of
means, and, nolens volens, the oven has to be used; but, in
this case at least, all possible precautions should be observed
in order to counteract the effects of the steam above mentioned.

252— LARDING BACON FOR ROASTS

Poultry and game to be roasted ought generally to be partly
covered with a large thin slice of larding bacon, except those
pieces of game which in special cases are larded.

The object and use of these slices are not only to shield the
fillets of fowl and game from the severe heat of the fire, but also
to prevent these from drying while the legs, which the heat
takes much longer to penetrate than the other parts, are cook-
ing. The slices of bacon should therefore completely cover the

LEADING CULINARY OPERATIONS 117

breasts of fowl and game, and they should be tied on to the
latter by means of string.

In some cases roasts of butcher's meat are covered with
layers of veal- or beef-fat, the object of which is similar to
that of the bacon prescribed above.

253— SPITTED ROASTS

The whole theory of roasts on the spit might be condensed
as follows : —

In the case of butcher's meat, calculate the intensity of the
heat used according to the piece to be roasted, the latter's size
and quality, and the time it has hung. Experience, however, is
the best guide, for any theory, whatever be its exactness, can
only give the leading principles and general rules, and cannot
pretend to supply the place of the practised eye and the accuracy
which are the result of experience alone.

Nevertheless, I do not say with Brillat Savarin that a roaster
is born and not made; I merely state that one may become a
good roaster with application, observation, care, and a little
aptitude.

The three following rules will be found to cover all the
necessary directions for spitted roasts : —

1 . All red meats containing a large quantity of juice should
be properly set, and then, according to their size, made to
undergo the action of a fire capable of radiating a very penetrat-
ing heat with little or no flame.

2. In the case of white meats, whose cooking should be
thorough, the fire ought to be so regulated as to allow the
roast to cook and colour simultaneously.

3. With small game the fuel should be wood, but whatever
fuel be used the fire ought to be made up in suchwise as to
produce more flame than glowing embers.

254— OVEN ROASTS

The degree of heat used for each roast must be regulated
according to the nature and size of the latter after the manner
of spitted roasts.

An oven roast, in the first place, should always be placed
on a meatstand, and this should be of such a height that at no
given moment during the cooking process the meat may come
in contact with the juices and fat which have drained from it
into the utensil beneath. Failing a proper stand, a spit resting
upon the edges of the utensil may be used.

No liquid of any kind, gravy or water, need be put in the
baking-pan. The addition of any liquid is rather prejudicial

ii8 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

than otherwise, since by producing vapour which hangs over
the roast it transforms the latter into a stew.

Remarks. — Whether spitted or in the oven, a roast must
always be frequently basted with a fatty substance, but never
with any other liquid.

255— THE GRAVY OF ROASTS

The real and most natural gravy for roasts is made from
the swilling of the baking- or dripping-pan, even if water
be used as the diluent, since the contents of these utensils
represent a portion of the essential principles of the roast
fallen from it in the process of cooking. But to obtain
this result neither the utensils nor the gravy ought to have
burned; the latter should merely have solidified, and for this
reason a roast cooked in a very fierce oven ought to be laid
on a pan only just large enough to hold it, so that the fat may
not burn.

The swilling can in any case only produce a very small quan-
tity of gravy, consequently, when it happens that a greater
quantity is required, the need is met beforehand by preparing
a stock madte from bones and trimmings of a similar nature to
the roast for which the gravy is required. The procedure for
this is as follows : —

Place the bones and trimmings in a pan with a little fat and
literally roast them. Then transfer them to a saucepan, moisten
so as to cover with tepid, slightly-salted water, and add thereto
the swillings of the pan wherein they were roasted. Boil, skim,
and set to cook gently for three or four hours, according to the
nature of the products used. This done, almost entirely remove
the grease, strain through muslin, and put aside for the purpose
of swilling the dripping- or baking-pan of the roast.

Swilling. — Having removed the roast from the spit or oven,
take off a portion of the grease from the baking- or dripping-
pan, and pour into it the required quantity of prepared
gravy. Reduce the whole by half, strain through muslin, and
almost entirely remove grease.

It is a mistake to remove all the grease from, and to clarify,
the gravy of roasts. Treated thus they are certainly clearer and
more sightly, but a large proportion of their savour is lost, and
it should be borne in mind that the gravy of a roast is not a
consomm^.

In the matter of roast feathered game, the accompanying
gravy is supplied by the swilling of the utensil, either with water
or a small quantity of brandy. This is a certain means of
obtaining a gravy whose savour is precisely that of the game ;
but occasionally veal gravy is used, as its flavour is neutral.

LEADING CULINARY OPERATIONS 119

and it therefore cannot impair the particular flavour of the
reduced game gravy lying on the bottom of the utensil. The
use of stock prepared from the bones and trimmings of game
similar to that constituting the dish is also common.

256— THE DRESSING AND ACCOMPANIMENTS OF ROASTS

As a rule, a roast ought not to wait. It ought only to leave
the spit or oven in order to be served. All roasts should be
placed on very hot dishes, slightly besprinkled with fresh
butter, and surrounded by bunches of watercress (this is op-
tional). The gravy is invariably served separately.

Roasts of butcher's meat and poultry are dished up as simply
as possible.

Small roasted game may be dished up on fried slices of bread-
crumb masked with gratin stuffing (No. 202).

When lemons accompany a roast, they should be served
separately. Pieces of lemon that have once served to garnish
a dish must not be used, for they have mostly been tainted by
grease.

The mediaeval custom of dishing game with the plumage
has been abandoned.

Roast feathered game a I'anglaise is dished up with or
without potato chips, and the three adjuncts are gravy, bread-
crumbs, and bread-sauce.

In northern countries game roasts are always accompanied
either by slightly sugared stewed apples, or by cherry or apricot
jam.

257— GRILLS

Those culinary preparations effected by means of grilling
belong to the order called cooking by concentration. And,
indeed, in almost all cases, the great object of these operations,
I might even say the greatest object, is the concentration, in
the centre, of the juices and essences which represent, most
essentially, the nutritive principles of the products cooked.

A grill, which is, in short, but a roast on an open fire, stands,
in my opinion, as the remote starting-point, the very genesis
of our art.

It was the primeval notion of our forefathers' infantile
brains ; it was progress born of an instinctive desire to eat with
greater pleasure; and it was the first culinary method ever
employed.

A little later, and following naturally, as it were, upon this
first attempt, the spit was born of the grill ; gradually, intelli-
gence supplanted rude instinct; reason began to deduce effects
from supposed causes; and thus cooking was launched forth

I20 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

upon that highroad along which it has not yet ceased steadily to
advance.

Fuel for Grills. — That mostly used, and certainly the best
for the purpose, is live coal or small pieces of charcoal. What-
ever fuel be used, however, it is essential that it produce no
smoke, even though the grill fire be ventilated by powerful
blowers which draw the smoke off. More especially is this
necessary, though I admit the contingency is rare, when artificial
ventilation has to be effected owing to the fire's burning in the
open without the usual help of systematic draughts ; for if smoke
occasioned by foreign substances or by the falling of the fat
itself on to the glowing embers were not immediately carried
away, either artificially or by a convenient draught, the grills
would most surely acquire a very disagreeable taste therefrom.

The Bed of Charcoal. — The arrangement of the bed of char-
coal under the grill is of some importance, and it must not only
be regulated according to the size and kind of the products to
be grilled, but also in such wise as to allow of the production
of more or less heat under given circumstances.

The bed should therefore be set in equal layers in the
centre, but varying in thickness according as to whether the
fire has to be more or less fierce; it should also be slightly
raised on those sides which are in contact with the air, in
order that the whole burning surface may radiate equal degrees
of heat.

The grill must always be placed over the glowing fuel in
advance, and it should be very hot when the objects to be
grilled are placed upon it, otherwise they would stick to the
bars, and would probably be spoiled when turned.

Grills Classified.

Grills may be divided into four classes, of which each
demands particular care. They are : (i) Red-meat grills
(beef and mutton); (2) White-meat grills (veal, lamb, poultry);
(3) Fish; (4) Grills coated with butter and bread-crumbs.

258— RED MEAT GRILLS

I submit as a principle that the golden rule in grills is to
strictly observe the correct degree of heat which is proper to
each treated object, never forgetting that the larger and richer
in nutrition the piece of meat, the quicker and more thorough
must be its initial setting.

I have already explained, under braisings, the part played
by, and the use of, rissoling or setting; but it is necessary to
revert to this question and its bearing upon grills.

If large pieces of meat (beef or mutton) are in question, the

LEADING CULINARY OPERATIONS 121

better their quality and the richer they are in juices, the
more resisting must be the rissoled coating they receive. The
pressure of the contained juices upon the rissoled coating of
this meat will be proportionately great or small according
to whether the latter be rich or poor, and this pressure will
gradually increase with the waxing heat.

If the grill fire be so regulated as to ensure the progressive
penetration of heat into the cooking object, this is what
happens : —

The heat, striking that surface of the meat which is in
direct communication with the fire, penetrates the tissues, and
spreads stratiformly through the body, driving the latter's
juices in front of it. When these reach the opposite, rissoled,
or set side of the meat, they are checked, and thereupon, absorb-
ing the incoming heat, effect the cooking of the inner parts.

Of course, if the piece of meat under treatment is very
thick, the fierceness of the fire should be proportionately abated
the moment the initial process of rissoling or setting of the
meat's surface has been effected, the object being to allow the
heat to penetrate the cooking body more regularly. If the
fierceness of the fire were maintained, the rissoled coating on
the meat would probably char, and the resulting thickness of
carbon would so successfully resist the passage of any heat
into the interior that, in the end, while the meat would probably
be found to be completely burnt on the outside, the inside
would be quite raw.

If somewhat thinner pieces are in question, a quick rissol-
ing of their surfaces over a fierce fire, and a few minutes of
subsequent cooking, will be all they need. No alteration in
the intensity of the fire need be sought in this case.

Examples. — A rumpsteak or Chateaubriand, in order to be
properly cooked, should first have its outsides rissoled on a
very fierce fi.re with a view to preserving its juices, after which
cooking may proceed over a moderate fire so as to allow of
the gradual penetration of the heat into the centre of the body.

Small pieces such as tournedos, small fillets, noisettes,
chops, may, after the preliminary process of outside rissoling,
be cooked over the same degree of heat as effected the latter,
because the thickness of meat to be penetrated is less.

The Care of Grills while Cooking. — Before placing the
meats on the grill, baste them slightly with clarified butter,
and repeat this operation frequently during the cooking process,
so as to avoid the possible drying of the rissoled surfaces.

Grilled red meat should always be turned by means of
special tongs, and great care should be observed that its surface

122 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

be not torn or pierced, lest the object of the preliminary pre-
cautions be defeated, and the contained juices escape.

Time of Cooking. — This, in the case of red meats, is arrived
at by the following test : if, on touching the meat with one's
finger, the former resist any pressure, it is sufficiently cooked :
if it give, it is clear that in the centre, at least, the
reverse is the case. The most certain sign, however, that
cooking has been completed is the appearance of little beads
of blood upon the rissoled surface of the meat.

259— WHITE-MEAT GRILLS

That superficial rissoling which is so necessary in the case
of red meats is not at all so in the case of white, for in the latter
there can be no question of the concentration of juices, since
these are only present in the form of albumen — that is to say,
in the form of juices " in the making," so to speak, which is
peculiar to veal and lamb.

For this kind of grills keep a moderate fire, so that the
cooking and colouring of the meat may take place simul-
taneously.

White-meat grills should be fairly often basted by means
of a brush, with clarified butter, while cooking, lest their out-
sides dry.

They are known to be cooked when the juice issuing from
them is quite white.

360— FISH QRILLS

Use a moderate fire with these, and only grill after having
copiously sprinkled them with clarified butter or oil. Sprinkle
them similarly while cooking.

A grilled lish is cooked when the bones are easily separated
from the meat. Except for the fatty kind, such as mackerel,
red mullet, or herrings, always roll fish to be grilled in flour
before sprinkling them with melted butter. The object of so
doing is to give them a golden external crust, which, besides
making them more sightly, keeps them from drying.

261— THE GRILLING OF PRODUCTS COATED
WITH BUTTER AND BREAD-CRUMBS

These grills generally consist of only small objects; they
must be effected on a very moderate fire, with the view of
enabling them to cook and acquire colour simultaneously.
They should also be frequently besorinkled with clarified butter,
and turned with care, so as not to break their coating, the object
of which is to withhold their contained juices.

LEADING CULINARY OPERATIONS 123

262— FRYINGS

Frying is one of the principal cooking processes, for the
number of preparations that are accomplished by its means
is very considerable. Its procedure is governed by stringent
laws and rules which it is best not to break, lest the double
danger of failure and impairment of material be incurred.

The former is easily averted if one is familiar with the
process, and paj's proper attention to it, while the latter is
obviated by precautions which have every raison d'etre, and the
neglect of which only leads to trouble.

The question of the kind of utensil to employ is not so
immaterial as some would think, for very often accidents result
from the mere disregard of the importance of this matter.

Very often imprudence and bluster on the part of the
operator may be the cause of imperfections, the greatest care
being needed in the handling of utensils containing overheated
fat.

Utensils used in frying should be made of copper, or other
resisting metal ; they should be in one piece, oval or round in
shape, and sufficiently large and deep to allow, while only half-
filled with fat, of the objects being properly affected by the
latter. The necessity of this condition is obvious, seeing that
if the utensil contain too much fat the slightest jerking of it
on the stove would spill some of the liquid, and the operator
would probably be badly burnt.

Finally, utensils with vertical sides are preferable to those
with the slanting kind; more especially is this so in large
kitchens where, the work involving much frying, capacious re-
ceptacles are required.

263— FRYING FAT— ITS PREPARATION

Any animal or vegetable grease is suitable for frying, pro-
vided it be quite pure and possess a resisting force allowing
it to reach a very high temperature without burning. But
for frying on a large scale, the use of cooked and clarified
fats, such as the fat of " pot-au-feu " and roasts, should be
avoided.

A frying medium is only perfect when it is able to meet
the demands of a protracted operation, and consists of fresh or
raw fats, chosen with care and thoroughly purified by cooking.

Under no circumstances may butter be used for frying on
a large scale, seeing that, even when thoroughly purified, it
can only reach a comparatively low degree of heat. It may be
used only for small, occasional fryings.

The fat of kidney of beef generally forms the base of the
grease intended for frying on a large scale. It is preferable

124 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

to all others on account of its cheapness and the great length
of time it can be worked, provided it receives the proper care.

Veal-fat yields a finer frying medium, but its resistance is
small, and it must, moreover, always be strengthened with the
fat of beef.

Mutton-fat should be deliberately discarded, for, if it happen
to be that of an old beast, it smells of tallow, and, if it be that
of a young one, it causes the hot grease to foam and to overflow
down the sides of the utensil, this leading to serious accidents.

Pork-fat is also used for frying, either alone, or combined
with some other kind.

In brief, the fat of kidney of beef is that which is best
suited to fryings on a large scale. Ordinary household frying,
which does not demand a very resisting grease, may well be
effected by means of the above, combined with an equal quantity
of veal-fat, or a mixture composed of the fat of kidney of beef,
veal, and pork in the proportions of one-half, one-quarter, and
one-quarter respectively.

The grease used for frying ought not only to be melted
down, but also thoroughly cooked, so that it may be quite
pure. If insufficiently cooked, it foams on first being used,
and so demands all kinds of extra precautions, which only
cease to be necessary when constant heating at last rectifies it.
Moreover, if it be not quite pure, it easily penetrates immersed
solids and makes them indigestible.

All grease used in frying should first be cut into pieces and
then put into the saucepan with one pint of water per every
ten lbs.

The object of the water is to assist in the melting, and this
it does by filtering into the grease, vaporising, and thereby
causing the latter to swell. So long as the water has not com-
pletely evaporated, the grease only undergoes the action of
liquefaction, i.e., the dissolution of its molecules; but its
thorough cooking process, ending with its purification, only
begins when all the water is gone.

The grease is cooked when (i) the membranes which en-
veloped it alone remain intact and are converted into greaves;
(2) it gives off smoke which has a distinct smell.

At this stage it has reached such a high temperature that
it is best to remove it from the fire for about ten minutes, so
that it may cool; then it must be strained through a sieve, or
a coarse towel, which must be tightly twisted.

264— THE VARIOUS DEGREES OF HEAT REACHED BY
THE FRYING MEDIUM, AND THEIR APPLICATION

The temperature reached by a frying medium depends upon

LEADING CULINARY OPERATIONS 125

the latter's constituents and its purity. The various degrees
may be classified as moderately hot, hot, very hot.

The expression " boiling hot " is unsuitable, seeing that fat
never boils. Butter (an occasional frying medium) cannot over-
reach 248° F. without burning, whereas if it be thoroughly
purified it can attain from 269° to 275° F. — a temperature which
is clearly below what would be needed for work on a large
scale.

Animal greases used in ordinary frying reach from 275° to
284° F. when moderately hot, 320° F. when hot, and 356° F.
when very hot; in the last case they smoke slightly.

Pork-fat (lard), when used alone, reaches 392° F. without
burning. Very pure goose dripping withstands 428° F. ; and,
finally, vegetable fats may reach, without burning, 482° F. in
the case of cocoa-nut butter, 518° F. with ordinary oils, and
554° in the case of olive oil.

The temperature of ordinary frying fat may be tested thus :
it is moderately hot when, after throwing a sprig of parsley
or a crust of bread into it, it begins to bubble immediately; it
is hot if it crackles when a slightly moist object is thrust into
it; it is very hot when it gives off a thin white smoke per-
ceptible to the smell.

The first temperature, " moderately hot," is used (i) for all
products containing vegetable water the complete evaporation
of which is necessary; (2) for fish whose volume exacts a cook-
ing process by means of penetration, previous to that with con-
centration.

In the first degree of heat with which it is used the frying
fat therefore only effects a kind of preparatory operation.

The second temperature, " hot," is used for all products
wihich have previously undergone an initial cooking process
in the first temperature, either for evaporation or penetration,
and its object is either to finish them or to cover them with a
crimped coating.

It is also applicable to those products upon which the frying
fat must act immediately by concentration — that is to say, by
forming a set coating around them which prevents the escape
of the contained substances.

Objects treated with this temperature are : all those panes a
I'anglaise or covered with batter, such as various croquettes,
cromesquis, cutlets, and collops k la Villeroy, fritters of all
kinds, fried creams, &c.

In this case the frying medium acts by setting, which in
certain cases is exceedingly necessary.

I. If the objects in question are panes a I'anglaise, i.e.,

126 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

dipped in beaten eggs and rolled in bread-crumbs, the sudden
contact of the hot grease converts this coating of egg and bread-
crumbs into a resisting crust, which prevents the escape of the
substances and the liquefied sauce contained within.

If these objects were plunged in a fat that was not suffi-
ciently hot, the coating of egg and bread-crumbs would not
only imbibe the frying medium, but it would run the risk of
breaking, thereby allowing the escape of the very substances it
was intended to withhold.

2. The same holds with objects treated with batter. Hence
the absolute necessity of ensuring that setting which means
that the covering of batter solidifies immediately. As the sub-
stances constituting these various dishes are cooked in advance,
it follows that their second heating and the colouring of the
coating {egg and bread-crumbs or batter) take place at the same
time and in a few minutes.

The third temperature, " very hot," is used (i) for all objects
that need a sharp and firm setting ; (2) for all small objects the
setting of ^^hich is of supreme importance, and whose cooking
is effected in a few minutes, as in the case of whitebait.

265— FRYING MEDIUM FOR FISH

Every frying medium, used for work on a large scale, which
has acquired a too decided colouring through repeated use,
may serve in the preparation of fish even until its whole strength
is exhausted.

Oil is best suited to the frying of fish, especially the very
small kind, owing to the tremendous heat it can withstand with-
out burning, for this heat guarantees that setting which is so
indispensable.

Except in this case, however, the temperature of the frying
medium should be regulated strictly in accordance with the
size of the fish to be fried, in order that its cooking and colour-
ing may be effected simultaneously.

Except Nonats and whitebait, which are simply rolled in
flour, fish to be fried are previously steeped in slightly salted
milk and then rolled in flour. From this combination of milk
and flour there results a crisp coating which withholds those
particular principles that the fish exude while cooking.

When finished, fried fish are drained, dried, slightly salted,
and dished on a serviette or on paper, with a garnish of fried
parsley-sprays and sections of channelled lemon.

266— THE QUANTITY OF THE FRYING MEDIUM

This should always be in proportion to the quantity or size

LEADING CULINARY OPERATIONS 127

of the objects to be fried, bearing in mind that these must
always be entirely submerged.

Without necessarily exaggerating, the quantity should in-
variably be rather in excess of the requirements, and for this
reason, viz., the greater the amount of fat, the higher will
be the temperature reached, and the less need one fear a sudden
cooling of the fat when the objects to be treated are immersed.
This sudden cooling is often the cause of great trouble, unless
one be working over a fire of such fierceness that the fat can
return in a few seconds to the temperature it was at before the
objects were immersed.

267— THE CARE OF THE FRYING MEDIUM

Every time a frying fat is used it should, after having been
melted, be strained through a towel, for the majority of objects
which it has served to cook must have left some particles behind
them which might prove prejudicial to the objects that are to
follow.

Objects that are " panes " always leave some raspings, for
instance, which in time assume the form of black powder, while
those that have been treated with flour likewise drop some of
their coating, which, in accumulating, produces a muddy pre-
cipitate on the bottom of the utensil.

Not only do these foreign substances disturb the clearness
of the fat and render it liable to burn, but they are exceedingly
detrimental to the objects that are treated later.

Therefore, always strain the fat whenever it is used — in the
first place because the proper treatment of the objects demands
it, and, secondly, because its very existence as a serviceable
medium depends upon this measure.

268— GRATINS

This culinary operation plays a sufficiently important part
in the work to warrant my detailing at least its leading points.

The various kinds of the order " Gratins " are (i) the Com-
plete Gratin; (2) the Rapid Gratin; (3) the Light Gratin;
(4) Glazing, which is a form of Rapid Gratin.

269— COMPLETE GRATIN

This is the first example of the series ; it is that whose pre-
paration is longest and most tiresome; for its principal con-
stituent, whatever this is, must be completely cooked. Its
cooking must moreover be coincident with the reduction of the
sauce, which is the base of the gratin, and with the formation
of the gratin proper, i.e., the crimped crust which forms on
the surface and is the result of the combination of the sauce

128 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

with the raspings and the butter, under the direct influence of
the heat.

In the preparation of complete gratin, two things must be
taken into account : — (i) The nature and size of the object to
be treated, and (2) the degree of heat which must be used in
order that the coolcing of the object, the reduction of the sauce,
and the formation of the gratin may be effected simultaneously.

The base of complete gratin is almost invariably ordinary
or Lenten duxelle sauce (No. 223), in accordance with the re-
quirements.

The object to be treated with the gratin is laid on a buttered
dish, surrounded with slices of raw mushrooms and chopped
shallots, and covered with duxelle sauce. The. surface is then
sprinkled with raspings, and copiously moistened with melted
butter. Should the piece be large, the amount of sauce used
will be proportionately greater, and the reverse, of course,
applies to medium or smaller sizes.

Take note of the following remarks in the making of complete
gratins : —

1. If too much sauce were used in proportion to the size
of the object, the latter would cook and the gratin form before
the sauce could reach the correct degree of consistence by means
of reduction. Hence it would be necessary to reduce the sauce
still further on the stove, and thereby give rise to steam which
would soften the coating of the gratin.

2. If the sauce used were insufficient, it would be reduced
before the cooking of the object had been effected, and, more
sauce having to be added, the resulting gratin would be uneven.

3. The larger the piece, and consequently the longer it
takes to cook, the more moderate should be the heat used.
Conversely, the smaller it is, the fiercer should the fire be.

When withdrawing the gratin from the oven squeeze a
few drops of lemon-juice over it, and besprinkle it with
chopped parsley.

270— RAPID QRATIN

Proceed as above, with duxelle sauce, but the products
treated with it, viz., meats, fish, or vegetables, are always
cooked and warmed in advance. All that is required, there-
fore, is to effect the formation of the gratin as quickly as
possible.

To do this, cover the object under treatment with the neces-
sary quantity of salt, besprinkle with raspings and butter, and
set the gratin to form in a fierce oven.

LEADING CULINARY OPERATIONS 129

271— LIGHT QRATIN

This is proper to farinaceous products, such as macaroni,
lazagnes, noodles, gnocchi, &c., and consists of a combina-
tion of grated cheese, raspings, and butter. In this case, again,
the only end in view is the formation of the gratin coating, which
must be evenly coloured, and is the result of the cheese melting.
A moderate heat is all that is wanted for this kind of gratin.

Also considered as light gratins are those which serve as
the complement of stuffed vegetables such as tomatoes, mush-
rooms, egg-plant, and cucumber. With these the gratin is
composed of raspings sprinkled with butter or oil, and it is
placed in a more or less fierce heat according to whether the
vegetables have already been cooked or partially cooked, or are
quite raw.

272— GLAZINGS

These are of two kinds — they either consist of a heavily
buttered sauce, or they form from a sprinkling of cheese upon
the sauce with which the object to be glazed is covered.

In the first case, after having poured sauce over the object
to be treated, place the dish on another dish containing a little
water. This is to prevent the sauce decomposing and boiling.
The greater the quantity of butter used, the more intense will
be the heat required, in Order that a slight golden film may form
almost instantaneously.

In the second case, the sauce used is always a Mornay (No.
gi). Cover the object under treatment with the sauce, be-
sprinkle with grated cheese and melted butter, and place in
fairly intense heat, so that a slight golden crust may form
almost immediately, this crust being the result of the combined
cheese and butter.

273— BLANCHINGS

The essentially unsuitable term blanchings is applied in the
culinary technology of France to three classes of operations
which entirely differ one from the other in the end they have
in view.

1. The blanching of meats.

2. The blanching, or, better, the parboiling of certain
vegetables.

3. The blanching of certain other vegetables, which in reality
amounts to a process of cooking.

The blanching of meats obtains mostly in the case of calf's
head and foot and the sweet-bread of veal, sheep's and lambs'

K

I30 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

trotters, and lamb's sweet-bread. These meats are first set to
soak in cold, running water until they have quite got rid of
the blood with which they are naturally saturated. They are
then placed on the fire in a saucepan containing enough cold
water to abundantly cover them, and the water is gradually
brought to the boil.

For calf's head or feet, boiling may last for fifteen or twenty
minutes; veal sweet-bread must not boil for more than ten or
twelve minutes; while lamb sweet-bread is withdrawn the
moment the boil is reached.

As soon as blanched, the meats are cooled in plenty of fresh
water before undergoing their final treatment.

The blanching of cocks' combs is exceptional in this,
namely, that after the combs have been cleansed of blood — that
is to say, soaked in cold water, they are placed on the fire in
cold water, the temperature of which must be carefully kept
below 113° F. When this degree is approached, take the
saucepan off the fire and rub each comb with a cloth, dusted
with table-salt, in order to remove the skins; then cool the
combs with fresh water before cooking them.

Many people use the blanching process with meats intended
for " blanquette " or "fricassee." I regard this procedure as
quite erroneous, as also the preliminary soaking in cold water.

If the meats or pieces of poultry intended for the above-
mentioned preparations be of a good quality (and no others
should be used), they need only be set to cook in cold water,
or cold stock, and gradually brought to the boil, being stirred
repeatedly the while. The scum formed should be carefully
removed, and, in this way, perfectly white meats and stock,
with all their savour, are obtained.

As to meats or pieces of poultry of an inferior quality, no
soaking and no blanching can make good their defects. Which-
ever way they are treated they remain dry, gray, and savourless.
It is therefore simpler and better to use only the finest quality
goods.

An excellent proof of the futility of soaking and blanching
meats intended for "fricassees" and " blanquettes " lies in
the fact that these very meats, if of good quality, are always
perfectly white when they are braised, poeled, or roasted, not-
withstanding the fact that these three operations are less calcu-
lated to preserve their whiteness than the kind of treatment
they are subjected to in the case of "blanquettes" and
" fricassees."

Mere routine alone can account for this practice of soaking

LEADING CULINARY OPERATIONS 131

and blanching meats — a practice that is absolutely condemned
by common sense.

The term "blanching" is wrongly applied to the cooking
of green vegetables, such as French beans, green peas, Brussels
sprouts, spinach, &c. The cooking of these, which is effected
by means of boiling salted water, ought really to be termed
" a I'anglaise." All the details of the procedure, however, will
be given when I deal with the vegetables to which the latter
apply.

Lastly, under the name of " blanching," there exists another
operation which consists in partly cooking certain vegetables
in plenty of water, in order to rid them of any bitter or pungent
flavour they may possess. The time allowed for this blanching
varies according to the age of the vegetables, but when the
latter are young and in season, it amounts to little more than
a mere scalding.

Blanching is chiefly resorted to for lettuce, chicory, endives,
celery, artichokes, cabbages, and the green vegetables; carrots,
turnips, and small onions when they are out of season. In
respect of vegetable-marrows, cucumbers, and chow-chow,
blanching is often left to the definite cooking process, which
should then come under the head of the "k I'anglaise"
cooking.

After the process of blanching, the vegetables I have just
enumerated are always cooled — that is to say, steeped in cold
water until they are barely lukewarm. They are then left to
drain on a sieve, previous to undergoing the final cooking
process to which they are best suited, this generally being
braising.

K 2

132 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

6. Vegetables and Garnishes
Various Preparations.

274— THE TREATMENT OF DRY VEGETABLES

It is wrong to soak dry vegetables. If they are of good
quality, and the produce of the year, they need only be put
into a saucepan with enough cold water to completely cover
them, and with one oz. of salt per five quarts of water.

Set to boil gently, skim, add the aromatic garnish, quartered
carrots, onions, with or without garlic cloves, and a faggot,
and set to cook gently with lid on.

Remarks. — If the vegetables used are old or inferior in
quality, they might be put to soak in soft water; but this only
long enough to swell them slightly, i.e., about one and one-half
hours.

A prolonged soaking of dry vegetables may give rise to
incipient germination, and this, by impairing the principles of
the vegetables, depreciates the value of the food, and may
even cause some harm to the consumer.

27s— BRAISED VEGETABLES

Vegetables to be braised must be first blanched, cooled,
pared, and strung.

Garnish the bottom of a saucepan with blanched pork-rind,
sliced carrots and onions, and a faggot, and cover the sides
of the utensil with thin slices of bacon. Lay the vegetables
upon the prepared litter, and leave them to sweat in the oven
for about ten minutes with lid on. The object of this oven-
sweating is to expel the water. Now moisten enough to cover
with white stock, and set to cook gently.

This done, drain, remove string, and cut to the shape re-
quired. Lay them in a saut^pan, and, if they are to be served
soon, cover them with their reduced stock from which the grease
has been removed.

If they are prepared in advance, simply put them aside in
suitable basins, cover them with their cooking-liquor, which
should be strained over them, boiling, and without its grease
removed, and cover with buttered paper.

Adjuncts to Braised Vegetables

According to the case, the adjunct is either the braising-
liquor, reduced and with all grease removed, or the same com-
pleted by means of an addition of meat-glaze.

LEADING CULINARY OPERATIONS 133

Occasionally, it may be the braising-liquor slightly thick-
ened with half-glaze and finished with butter and the juice of a
lemon.

276— LEASON OF GREEN VEGETABLES WITH BUTTER

First thoroughly drain the vegetables and toss them over
the fire for a few minutes, in order to completely rid them of
their moisture. Season according to the kind of vegetable ; add
the butter away from the fire, and slightly toss, rolling the
saucepan meanwhile on the stove with the view of effecting the
leason by means of the mixing of the butter with the treated
vegetables.

377— LEASON OF VEGETABLES WITH CREAM

Vegetables to be treated in this way must be kept some-
what firm. After having thoroughly drained them, put them
into a saucepan with enough boiling fresh cream to well moisten
without covering them.

Finish their cooking process in the cream, stirring occasion-
ally the while.

When the cream is almost entirely reduced, finish, away from
the fire, with a little butter.

The leason may be slightly stiffened, if necessary, by means
of a few tablespoonfuls of cream sauce.

278— VEGETABLE CREAMS AND PUREES

Purees of dry and farinaceous vegetables may be obtained
by rubbing the latter through a sieve.

Put the purde into a sautdpan, and dry it over a brisk fire,
adding one and one-half oz. of butter per pint of purde; then
add milk or cream in small quantities at a time, until the purde
has reached the required degree of consistence.

For purees of aqueous vegetables, such as French beans,
cauliflowers, celery, &c., a quarter of their volume of mashed
potatoes should be added to them in order to effect their leason.

In the case of vegetable creams, substitute for the thickening
of mashed potatoes an equivalent quantity of succulent and
stiff Bechamel sauce.

279— GARNISHES

In cookery, although garnishes only play a minor part,
they are, nevertheless, very important, for, besides being the
principal accompaniments to dishes, they are very often the

134 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

adornment thereof, while it frequently happens that their har-
monious arrangement considerably helps to throw the beauty
of a fine joint or bird into relief.

A garnish may consist of one or more products. Be this
as it may, its name, as a rule, distinctly denotes, in a word,
what it is and how it is made.

In any case, it should always bear some relation to the piece
it accompanies, either in the constituents of its preparation or
with regard to the size of the piece constituting the dish.

I merely add that, since the constituents of garnishes are
strictly denoted by the name the latter bear, any addition of
products foreign to their nature would be a grave mistake. Like-
wise, the omission of any constituent is to be avoided, as the
garnish would thereby be out of keeping with its specified
character.

Only in very exceptional circumstances should any change
of this kind be allowed to take place.

The constituents of garnishes are supplied by vegetables,
farinaceous products, quenelles of all kinds, cocks' combs and
kidneys, truffles and mushrooms, plain or stuffed olives, mol-
luscs (mussels or oysters), shell-fish (crayfish, shrimps, lobster,
&c.), butcher's supplies, such as lamb's sweet-bread, calf's
brains, and calf's spine-marrow.

As a rule, garnishes are independent of the dish itself —
that is to say, they are prepared entirely apart. At other times
they are mixed with it, playing the double part of garnish and
condimentary principle, as in the case of Matelotes, Compotes,
Civets, &c.

Vegetables for garnishing are fashioned and treated in ac-
cordance with the use and shape implied by the name of the
dish, which should always be the operator's guide in this
respect.

The farinaceous ones, the molluscs and shell-fish, undergo
the customary preparation.

I have already described (Chapter X.) the preparation of
quenelles and forcemeats for garnishing. Other recipes which
have the same purpose will be treated in their respective order.

PART II
RECIPES AND MODES OF PROCEDURE

In Part I. of this work I treated of the general principles
on which the science of cookery is founded, and the leading
operations constituting the basis of the work.

In Part II. I shall proceed from the general to the particular
— in other words, I shall set forth the recipes of every dish I
touch upon, its method of preparation, and its constituent
parts.

With the view of making reference as easy as possible, with-
out departing from a certain logical order, I have adopted the
method of classifying these recipes in accordance with the
position the dishes they represent hold in the ordinary menu,
and thus, starting with the hors-d'oeuvres, I go straight on
_to the dessert. I was compelled, however, to alter my plan
in the case of eggs, which never appear on the menu of a dinner
save in Lent.

These I have therefore placed immediately after the hors-
d'oeuvres, which, like eggs, should only be served at luncheons,
for reasons I shall explain later.

It will be seen that I have placed the Savouries before the
Entremets, instead of after the Ices, as is customary in
England. My reason for this apparent anomaly is that I con-
sider it a positive gastronomical heresy to eat fish, meats, fowl-
remains, &c., after delicate Entremets and Ices, the subtle
flavour of the latter, which form such an agreeable item in a
dinner, being quite destroyed by the violent seasoning of the
former.

Moreover, the very pretext brought forward in support of
this practice, so erroneous from the gastronomical standpoint,
namely, " that after a good dinner it is necessary to serve
something strange and highly seasoned, in order to whet the
diner's thirst," is its own condemnation.

For, if appetite is satiated and thirst is quenched, it follows

136 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

that the consumer has taken all that is necessary. Therefore,
anything more that he may be stimulated to take will only
amount to excess, and excess in gastronomy, as in everything
else, is a fault that can find no excuse.

At all events, I could agree to no more than the placing of
the Savouries before mild Entremets, and, even so, the former
would have to consist of light, dry preparations, very mode-
rately seasoned, such as Paillettes with Parmesan, various
kinds of dry biscuits, and small tartlets garnished with cheese
souffle.

In short, if I expressed my plain opinion on the matter, I
should advise the total suppression of Savouries in a dinner.

CHAPTER XI

hors-d'ceuvres
General Remarks

The preparations described hereafter all belong to the order
of cold hors-d'oeuvres. I did not deem it necessary to touch
upon the hot kind, for, apart from the fact that these are very
seldom served in England, at least under the head of hors-
d'oeuvres, they are mostly to be found either among the hot
Entries or the Savouries proper.

Generally speaking, hors-d'oeuvres should only form part
of a meal that does not comprise soup, while the rule of serving
them at luncheons only ought to be looked upon as absolute.

It is true that restaurants k la carte deliberately deviate from
this rule, but it should be remembered, in their case, that, in
addition to the fact that " hors-d'oeuvres de luxe," such as
caviare, oysters, plovers' and lapwings' eggs, &c., are mostly
in question, they also find the use of hors-d'oeuvres expedient
if only as a means of whiling away the customers' time during
the preparation of the various dishes that may have been
ordered.

Moreover, the hors-d'oeuvres enumerated are not subject
to the same objection as those composed of fish, salads, and
marinaded vegetables. The use of cold hors-d'oeuvres in these
special cases is thus, to a certain extent, justified, but it is
nevertheless to be regretted that an exception of this kind should
degenerate into a habit, and that it should be made to prevail
under circumstances which, in themselves, are insufficient
warrant for the abuse.

In Russia it is customary to have a sideboard in a room
adjoining the dining-room, dressed with all kinds of special
pastries, smoked fish, and other products, and these the diners
partake of, standing, together with strong liqueurs, before taking
their seats at the table. The general name given to the items
on the sideboard is " Zakouski." Caterers and hotel-keepers in
different parts of the world, more zealous than judicious, intro-
duced the custom of the zakouski without allowing for the

138 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

differences of race, which are due, to some extent, to the in-
fluence of climate ; and at first, probably owing to everybody's
enthusiasm for things Russian, the innovation enjoyed a
certain vogue, in spite of the fact that, in many cases, the dishes
served resembled the Zakouski in name alone, and consisted of
cold and very ordinary hors-d'ceuvres, served at the dining-table
itself.

At length the absurdity of investing such common things
as hors-d'oeuvres with an exotic title began to be perceived,
and nowadays the occasions are rare when the Russian term
is to be found on a menu ; nevertheless, the custom unfor-
tunately survives.

For my own part, I regard cold hors-d'oeuvres as quite
unnecessary in a dinner; I even consider them counter to the
dictates of common sense, and they are certainly prejudicial to
the flavour of the soup that follows.

At the most, caviare might be tolerated, the nutty taste of
which, when it is quite fresh, can but favourably impress the
consumer's palate, as also certain fine oysters, provided they
be served with very dry Rhine wine or white Bordeaux. But
I repeat that hors-d'oeuvres consisting of any kind of fish,
salad, marinaded vegetables, &c., should be strictly proscribed
from the items of a dinner.

The custom of serving cold hors-d'oeuvres at lunch is, on
the contrary, not only traditional, but indispensable, and their
varied combinations, thrown into relief by tasteful and proper
arrangement, besides lending a cheerful aspect to the table, be-
guile the consumer's attention and fancy from the very moment
of his entering the dining-room. It has been said, with reason,
that soups should foretell the dominant note of the whole
dinner, and cold hors-d'ceuvres should in the same way reveal
that of a luncheon.

Possibly it was with a sense of the importance of hors-
d'oeuvres, from this standpoint, that their preparation was
transferred from the office (the exclusive concern whereof used,
formerly, to be the hors-d'oeuvres) to the kitchen.

The results of this change manifested themselves imme-
diately in prodigious variations and transformations of the
hors-d'oeuvres, both in respect of their preparation and dishing-
up, so much so, indeed, that perhaps in no other department
of culinary art has there been such progress of recent years.

Their variety is infinite, and it would be impossible to
compute, even approximately, the number of combinations an
ingenious artist could effect in their preparation, seeing that

HORS-D'CEUVRES 139

the latter embraces almost every possible use of every conceiv-
able esculent product.

Well may it be said that a good hors-d'oeuvrier is a man
to be prized in any kitchen, for, although his duties do not
by any means rank first in importance, they nevertheless
demand in him who performs them the possession of such
qualities as are rarely found united in one person, viz., reliable
and experienced taste, originality, keen artistic sense, and pro-
fessional knowledge.

The hors-d'oeuvrier should be able to produce something
sightly and good out of very little, and the beauty and attractive-
ness of a hors-d'oeuvre should depend to a much greater degree
upon his work and the judicious treatment of his material than
upon the nature of the latter.

Preparation for Hors-d'CEuvres

280— BUTTERS AND CREAMS

The seasoning of butters for hors-d'oeuvres is effected when
dishing them up. When prepared in advance, they ought to
be placed in a bowl and put aside somewhere in the cool,
covered with a piece of clean paper.

281— ANCHOVY BUTTER

Wash twelve or fifteen anchovies in cold water, and dry them
thoroughly. Remove the fillets from the bones, pound them
smoothly with four oz. of butter, rub the whole through a fine
sieve, smooth it with a spoon, and put it aside.

282— CAVIARE BUTTER

Pound three oz. of pressed caviare with four oz. of butter,
and rub through a fine sieve.

283— SHRIMP BUTTER

Pound four oz. of shrimps with four oz. of butter; rub
through a fine sieve first, then through muslin, after having
softened the preparation.

This may also be made from the shelled tails of shrimps,
which process, though it is easier, does not yield a butter of
such delicate taste as the former.

284— CURRY BUTTER

Soften four oz. of butter in a bowl, and add thereto suffi-
cient curry-powder to ensure a decided taste. The exact
quantity of curry cannot be prescribed, since the quality of the
latter entirely governs its apportionment.

HO GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

285— CRAYFISH BUTTER

Cook the crayfish with mirepoix, as for Bisque. Finely
pound the shells after having removed the tails, and add thereto
four oz. of butter per two oz.; rub through a fine sieve first,
then through muslin.

N.B. — The whole crayfish may be pounded, but the tails
are usually laid aside with a view to supplying the garnish
of the toasts for which the butter is intended.

286- RED -HERRING BUTTER

Take the fillets of three red-herrings; remove the skins, and
pound finely with three oz. of butter. Rub through a fine
sieve.

287— LOBSTER BUTTER

Pound four oz. of lobster trimmings and spawn, and a little
of the coral with four oz. of butter. Rub through a fine sieve.

288— MILT BUTTER

Poach four oz. of milt in a covered and buttered saut^-pan,
with the juice of half a lemon ; pound in the mortar, and add
to the preparation its weight of butter and a teaspoonful of
mustard. Rub through a fine sieve.

289— MONTPELIER BUTTER (GREEN BUTTER)

See Compound Butter for Sauces (No. 153).

290— HORSE-RADISH BUTTER

Grate two oz. of horse-radish and pound with four oz. of
butter. Rub through a fine sieve.

291— SMOKED SALMON BUTTER

Finely pound four oz. of smoked salmon with as much
butter, and rub through a fine sieve.

292— PAPRIKA BUTTER

Soften four oz. of butter in a bowl, and mix therewith a
small teaspoonful of paprika infused in a few drops of white
wine or consomm^, with a view to strengthening the colour of
the paprika.

HORS-D'GEUVRES 141

293— PIMENTO BUTTER

Pound four oz. of preserved or freshly-cooked capsicum ;
add as much butter thereto, and rub through a fine sieve.

294— CAVIARE CREAM

Pound four oz. of preserved caviare and add thereto, little
by little, two tablespoonfuls of fresh cream and two oz. of
softened butter. Rub through a fine sieve, and finish the pre-
paration by an addition of three tablespoonfuls of whisked
cream .

N.B. — This cream and those that follow often take the
place of the butters in the preparation of hors-d'oeuvres. The
addition of previously well-softened butter to these creams is
necessary in order to make them sufficiently consistent when
they cool.

295— LOBSTER CREAM

Pound four oz. of lobster trimmings, spawn, and coral, and
add thereto three tablespoonfuls of fresh cream and two oz.
of softened butter.

Rub through a sieve, and complete the preparation with
whisked cream, as above.

296— GAME CREAM

Pound four oz. of cold, cooked game-meat with three table-
spoonfuls of fresh cream and two oz. of softened butter. Rub
through a sieve, and finish the preparation with three table-
spoonfuls of whisked cream.

297— SMOKED SALMON CREAM

Finely pound four oz. of smoked salmon, and add thereto,
little by little, three tablespoonfuls of fresh cream and two oz.
of softened butter. Rub the whole through a sieve, and finish
with an addition of three tablespoonfuls of whisked cream.

298— TUNNY CREAM

Finely pound four oz. of tunny in oil, and finish the cream
similarly to that of the Smoked Salmon.

299— CHICKEN CREAM

Finely pound four oz. of cold fowl (white parts only) and
add thereto two tablespoonfuls of fresh cream and two oz. of
softened butter. Rub through a sieve, and finish with three
tablespoonfuls of whisked cream.

N.B. — This cream ought to be made and seasoned with
salt immediately before being served.

142 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

299a— MUSTARD SAUCE WITH CREAM

Put three tablespoonfuls of mustard in a bowl with a little
salt, pepper, and a few drops of lemon-juice. Mix the whole
and add, little by little, the necessary quantity of very fresh
cream.

HORS-D'CEUVRES

300— ANCHOVY ALLUMETTES

Roll some puff-paste trimmings into rectangular strips two
and one-half inches wide and one-eighth inch thick. Spread
thereon a thin coating of fish stuffing, finished with anchovy
butter ; lay the anchovy fillets, prepared beforehand, lengthwise
on this stuffing, and cut into pieces about one inch wide. Place
the pieces on a baking-tray, and set to bake in the oven for
twelve minutes.

301— ANCHOVY FILLETS

Cut each halved anchovy, which should have been previously
■marinaded in oil, into two or three little fillets. Place them
across each other in a hors-d'oeuvre dish^^ after the manner of
a lattice ; garnish with chopped parsley and the chopped white
and yolk of a hard-boiled egg, alternating the colours. Put
a few capers on the fillets, and besprinkle moderately with oil.
Anchovy fillets may also be served on a salad of ciseled
lettuce, for the sake of variety.

302— FRESH MARINADED ANCHOVIES

Take a few live anchovies, cleanse them, and put them in
salt for two hours. This done, plunge them in smoking oil,
where they may remain only just long enough to stiffen.
Drain, place them in a moderately acid marinade, and serve
on a hors-d'oeuvre dish with a little marinade.

303— ROLLED ANCHOVIES

Turn some fine olives and stuff them with anchovy butter;
when quite cold, encircle them with a ring of anchovy fillet,
kept whole.

304— ANCHOVY MEDALLIONS

Cut into discs, about the size of half-a-crown, potatoes boiled
in water or baked beetroot. Cover their edges with fine

HORS-D'CEUVRES 143

anchovy fillets marinaded in oil, and garnish their centres either
with caviare, chopped hard-boiled egg, or milt pur^e, &c.

305— ANCHOVY PAUPIETTES

Prepare some thick slices of blanched and marinaded
cucumber, about the size of half-crowns, and hollow their
centres slightly. Place rings composed of the fillets of
anchovies in oil upon these slices, and fill up their centres with
tunny cream or the cream of any fish or shell-fish.

306— ANCHOVY WITH PIMENTOS

Prepare some anchovy fillets in oil, and place them across
each other in a lattice, using fillets of pimento alternately with
those of the anchovies. Garnish in the same way as for anchovy
fillets, i.e., with the chopped white and yolk of a hard-boiled
egg, and chopped parsley.

307— NORWEGIAN ANCHOVIES OR KILKIS

These are found ready-prepared on the market. Place them
on a hors-d'oeuvre dish with some of their liquor, and without
any garnish.

308— SMOKED EEL

Serve it plain, cut into fillets.

309— EEL WITH WHITE WINE AND PAPRIKA

Divide the eel into lengths of three and one-half inches;
poach these in exactly the same way as for matelote, but with
white wine and paprika seasoning. Let them cool in their
cooking-liquor ; cut the pieces lengthwise into large fillets, and
cover them with the liquor after all grease has been removed
therefrom and it has been clarified and cleared.

310— EEL AU VERT

Stew in butter two oz. of sorrel, one-quarter oz. of parsley,
as much chervil, a few tarragon leaves, a little fresh pimpernel,
two oz. of tender nettle, one-quarter oz. of savory, a sprig of
green thyme, and a few sage-leaves, all of which must be
ciseled. Remove the skins from two lbs. of small eels, sup-
press the heads, and cut into pieces two inches long. Put
these pieces with the herbs, stiffen them well, and add one pint
of white wine and a little salt and pepper. Set to cook for ten
minutes, thicken with the yolks of four eggs and a few drops
of lemon-juice, and leave to cool in a bowl. This preparatigij
pf eel is served very cold.

144 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

311— EEL AU VERT A LA FLAMANDE

Remove the skin from, and cut into small pieces, two lbs.
of small eels. Stiffen the pieces in butter, moisten with one
pint of beer, season, and set to cook for ten minutes. Add the
herbs enumerated above, raw and roughly chopped. Once
more set to cook for seven or eight minutes, thicken with
fecula if the sauce is too thin, and transfer the whole to a bowl
to cool. Serve very cold.

312— ARTICHOKES A LA QRECQUE

Take some very small and tender artichokes. Pare them,
cut the leaves short, and plunge them into a large saucepan
of acidulated water. Set to parboil for eight or ten minutes,
drain, cool in fresh water, and drain once more in a sieve.

For twenty artichokes prepare the following liquor : — one
pint of water, one-quarter pint of oil, a little salt, the juice of
three lemons, a few fennel and coriander seeds^ some pepper-
corns, a sprig of thyme, and a bay-leaf. Set to boil, add the
parboiled artichokes, and leave to cook for twenty minutes.
Transfer to a bowl.

Serve these artichokes very cold upon a hors-d'oeuvre
dish, accompanied by a few tablespoonfuls of their cooking-
liquor.

3i3~SMALL ARTICHOKE -BOTTOMS

Remove the leaves and the hearts of some little artichokes;
trim their remaining bases, and plunge each as soon as trimmed
into acidulated water lest they blacken. Cook them " au
blanc " (No. 167), and leave them to cool in their liquor.

Drain them well, dry them, place them in a pan, and
marinade them for twenty minutes in oil and lemon-juice. This
done, garnish them, either with a salpicon thickened with
mayonnaise, a milt or other pur^e, a small viacedoine, or a
vegetable salad, &c. Place on a hors-d'ceuvre dish with a
garnish of parsley sprays.

314— BARQUETTES

These are a kind of small Croustades with indented edges,
made in very small, boat-shaped moulds, and they may be
garnished in any conceivable way.

As their preparation is the same as that of Tartlets, see the
latter (No. 387); also refer to " Frivolities " (No. 350).

HORS-D'CEUVRES 145

31S— SMOKED HAMBURG BEEF

Cut it into very thin slices; divide these up into triangles,
and roll the latter into the shape of cones. The slices may also
be served flat.

Dish up at the last moment, and serve very cold.

316— CANAPES AND TOAST

In the matter of hors-d'oeuvres, the two above names have
the same meaning. The preparation consists of small slices
of the crumb of bread, about one-quarter inch thick, slightly
toasted and with a garnish on one of their sides. The garnish
is subject to the taste of the consumer, the resources at the
disposal of the cook, or the latter's fancy, which may here be
fully indulged.

But the garnish, par excellence, for Canapes or Toast, is
fresh butter combined with a fine mince of white roast chicken-
meat, the meat of shell-fish or fish, or cheese, &c., as I pointed
out above under the butters for hors-d'oeuvres.

Whatever be the garnish of Canapes or Toast, and even
when it would be unreasonable to let butter form a part of it,
as, for example, in the case of marinaded fish, anchovies,
filleted herring, &c., it is always best to put plenty of butter
on the pieces of toast while they are still hot, with the view
of keeping them soft.

When the garnish consists of a pur^e, i.e., a compound
butter, I should advise the use of a piping-bag fitted with a
grooved pipe, for laying the preparation upon the toast. This
method is both clean and expeditious, and lends itself to any
fanciful arrangement which the varying shape of the toast may
suggest.

The principal shapes given to the toast are as follows :
round, square, rectangular, oval, triangular, crescented, star-
like, crossed, &c.

They should never exceed one and one-half inches in
diameter, and a corresponding size in the other shapes.

I shall only indicate here a few kinds of specially gar-
nished toast, and leave the thousand and one other kinds for
the operator himself to discover.

317— ANCHOVY TOAST

Make the pieces of toast oval. Cover with anchovy butter,
and place thereon, lattice-wise, some fillets of anchovy cut to
the length of the toast. Garnish the pieces of toast all round

L

146 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

with the separately chopped whites and yolks of hard-boiled
eggs, alternating the colours.

318— CAVIARE TOAST

Make the pieces of toast round; cover with caviare butter;
garnish the edges with a thread of softened butter, laid on by
means of a piping-bag fitted with a grooved pipe. Put fresh
caviare in the centre.

319— SHRIMP TOAST

Make the pieces of toast round; cover with shrimp butter,
and garnish by means of a border composed of shelled shrimps'
tails with a caper in the centre.

320— CITY TOAST

Make the pieces of toast round, and cover with a thick
coating of the following preparation, viz. : — Four oz. of fresh
butter, softened; two oz, of fresh Gruy^re and two oz. of
Parmesan, both grated ; a dessertspoonful of cream, and a little
salt and cayenne. Cover this preparation with two half-discs,
which when juxtaposed are equal in circumference to the round
of the toast. The half-discs should be cut respectively from
a Lyons sausage and a Gruy^re cheese; both should be thin,
and equal in thickness.

321— DANISH TOAST

Prepare some slices of brown bread, equal in thickness to
the toast ; but only heat, do not grill them. Spread some horse-
radish butter over them, and cover with alternate strips of
smoked salmon, caviare, and filleted herrings marinaded in
white wine. Now stamp the garnished slices with a sharp
fancy-cutter, the shape of which is optional.

322— CRAYFISH TOAST

Make the pieces of toast crescented; cover with crayfish
butter, deck the edges with a string of softened butter, and
garnish with a crayfish's tail, cut into two lengthwise The
two halves of the tail should be placed in the middle of each
crescent, close together and with their thickest side innermost.

323— TONGUE TOAST

Prepare some slices of crumb of bread, equal in thickness,
and toast them. Now garnish with a coating, half as thick

HORS-D'CEUVRES 147

as the slices themselves, of mustard butter. Cover the butter
with thin slices of very red, salted tongue, and let the butter
harden.

Stamp out the pieces of toast with a star-shaped fancy-cutter,
which should be dipped from time to time in boiling water in
order to facilitate the operation. Finally, make a rosette of
mustard butter in the middle of each piece of toast.

324— LUCILE TOAST

Make the pieces of toast oval, cover with mustard butter,
and border their edges with a line of finely chopped and very
red tongue. Garnish the middle of each with chopped white
chicken-meat, and in the centre drop a pinch of chopped truffle.

335— VARIOUS CAROLINES

These are very small 6clairs of pate a choux without sugar.
When quite cold, garnish them inside with a pur^e, either of
tongue, fowl, game, or foie gras, &c., then coat them
thinly with a chaud-froid sauce in keeping with the pur^e form-
ing the inside garnish.

When the sauce has cooled, glaze it, by means of a brush,
with a little cold melted jelly, with a view to making it glossy.

N.B. ^Carolines are also used as a garnish for certain cold
preparations, aspics, &c.

336— CAVIARE AND BLINIS

Caviare is undoubtedly the richest and most delicate of
hors-d'oeuvres, granted, of course, that it be of good quality
and consist of large, light-coloured, and transparent particles.
Its price is always high, owing to the difficulty attending its
importation. It is served very simply, either in a silver tim-
bale or in its original receptacle, surrounded with ice, and
accompanied by a dish of Blinis, whereof the preparation is as
follows : —

Make a thin paste with one oz. of yeast and one lb. of
sifted flour diluted with one pint of lukewarm milk. Leave
this paste to ferment for two hours in a lukewarm atmosphere,
and then add thereto one-half lb. of flour, the yolks of four
eggs, a pinch of salt, one-half pint of tepid milk; mix the
whole without letting it acquire any body, and finally add the
whites of four eggs, whisked. Let the preparation ferment
for half an hour, and, when about to serve, cook the Blinis
quickly, after the manner of pancakes, in special little omelet-
pans. Dish them up very hot on a napkin.

L 2

148 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

Failing fresh caviare, the pressed and salted kind may also
be used for hors-d'oeuvres. Some cooks serve finely-chopped
onions with fresh caviare, but a worse practice could not be
imagined. Fresh caviare, the flavour of which is perfect, does
not need any supplementary condiment.

337— CELERY "A LA BONNE-FEMME"

Take equal quantities of very tender celery sticks and peeled,
quartered and cored russet apples. Finely mince the celery and
apples, season with a mustard-and-cream sauce, and place on
a hors-d'oeuvre dish.

328— CELERY A LA QRECQUE

Select a few hearts of celery, very equal; trim, wash, and
parboil them in acidulated water, as directed under "arti-
chokes a la Grecque." Prepare the cooking-liquor from the
same ingredients, using the same quantities thereof, and cook
similarly.

Serve very cold on a crystal hors-d'oeuvre dish with a por-
tion of the cooking-liquor.

329— CELERIAC

Quarter, peel, and cut the vegetable in julienne fashion.
Prepare the seasoning with mustard, salt, pepper, and vinegar ;
add the julienne of Celeriac and mix thoroughly. When the
roots are quite soft, a seasoning consisting of mustard-and-
cream sauce is preferable.

329a— MARINADED CEPES

Select some very small and fresh cepes. Parboil them for
eight minutes, drain and cool them, put them into a basin,
and cover them with the boiling marinade after having passed
the latter through a strainer.

Marinade for Two lbs. of Cepes. — Put into a saucepan one
pint of vinegar, one-third pint of oil, a crushed clove of garlic,
a fragment of bay, and a little thyme, six peppercorns, a pinch
of coriander, a few fennel leaves, and a small root of parsley.
Set to boil for five minutes. Leave the mushrooms to marinade
for five or six hours before using them.

329b— CHERRIES A L'ALLEMANDE

Take five lbs. of Morella cherries, put them into a bottle, as
in the case of cherry brandy, and add thereto three cloves, a

HORS-D'CEUVRES 149

fragment of cinnamon, some grated nutmeg, and a sprig of
tarragon. Pour over the cherries two quarts of vinegar, boiled
with one-half lb. of brown sugar and properly cooled. Cork
the bottle, and leave the fruit to macerate for a fortnight.

329c— BRAINS A LA ROBERT

Cook well-cleansed sheep's or lamb's brains in court-
bouillon, and cool. Divide them up into thin and regular slices,
and place them on a hors-d'oeuvre dish. Rub the brain re-
mains through a fine sieve, combine the resulting pur^e with
a mustard-and-cream sauce, and add thereto a fine julienne of
the white part only of celery.

Cover the slices of brain with the sauce.

329d— CUCUMBER A LA DANOISE

Cut the cucumber to the shape of small cassolettes or bar-
quettes, blanch and marinade them.

Garnish with a preparation composed of a purde of salmon
mixed with fillets of herring and chopped, hard-boiled eggs in
equal quantities.

Sprinkle a little chopped horse-radish over the garnish.

330— STUFFED CUCUMBERS

Prepare them as above, in the shape of small barquettes or
cassolettes. Cook them, at the same time keeping them firm;
marinade them for twenty minutes, when they are quite cold, in
oil and vinegar, and garnish them, by means of a piping-bag,
either with a thick purde, some mince-meat thickened with
mayonnaise, or a small vegetable macedoine, &c.

331— CUCUMBER SALAD

Carefully peel the cucumbers, cut them into two lengthwise,
remove their seeds, and mince finely. Place them in a bowl,
sprinkle with table-salt, and leave them to exude their vegetable
moisture for twenty-five minutes. This done, drain them, press
them in a towel, season with pepper, oil, and vinegar, and add
some chopped chervil.

332— CUCUMBER AND PIMENTO SALAD

Select some very fresh, medium-sized cucumbers, peel them,
and cut them into pieces two inches in length. Cut these pieces
spirally, beginning at their peripheries and working towards
their centres ; then cut them diametrally, so as to produce curved

I50 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

strips of the vegetable. Add an equal quantity of pimentos cut
into strips, and season as in the case of cucumber salad.

333— YORK CONES

Cut slices from a York ham as thinly as possible, and trim
them to the shape of triangles. Roll the triangles into cones,
and garnish their insides (by means of a piping-bag fitted with
a grooved pipe) with any butter or cream. (See Nos. 280 to
299.)

334— TONGUE CONES

Proceed as for York Cones.

335— MOULDED CREAMS

Prepare a hors-d'oeuvre cream in accordance with any one
of the recipes (Nos. 294 to 299). Put this cream into very
small, slightly-oiled, and ornamented moulds, and leave it to
set in the cool or on ice. Empty the moulds, at the moment
of dishing up, either directly upon a dish, on tartlets garnished
with a pur^e in keeping with the cream, or on toast. With
these moulded creams, endless varieties of delicate and recom-
mendable little hors-d'oeuvres may be prepared, while in their
preparation the moulds used in pastry for " petits fours " may
serve a useful purpose.

336— SHRIMPS AND PRAWNS

Get these very fresh and serve them on boat-shaped hors-
d'oeuvre dishes, arranging them so that they overlap one
another. Either garnish the middle of the dishes with curled-
leaf parsley, or lay the crustaceans directly upon parsley.

337— DUCHESSES

This hors-d'oeuvre is almost equivalent to the Carolines
(No. 325), except that the shape of the Duchesses is that of
little choux, about the size of a pigeon's egg, and that, as a
rule, they are merely glazed with some melted jelly, and not
covered with a chaud-froid sauce. Sprinkle them with chopped
pistachios, and serve them very cold on ornamented dish-papers.

338— NANTUA DUCHESSES

Stuff the little choux, referred to above, with crayfish pur^e,
and sprinkle them, again and again, with cold, melted jelly,
in order to cover them with a transparent film.

HORS-D'CEUVRES 151

339— DUCHESSES A LA REINE

Stuff the little choux with a pur^e of fowl with cream. Glaze
with jelly, as above, and sprinkle some very black, finely-
chopped truffles over the jelly.

340— DUCHESSES A LA SULTANE

Stuff the little choux with a pur^e of fowl, completed with
pistachio butter. Glaze with jelly, and sprinkle a little chopped
pistachio upon each little chou.

341— CAVIARE DUCHES5ES

Stuff with fresh caviare or caviare cream. Glaze with jelly
and serve iced.

343- SMOKED-SALMON DUCHESSES

Stuff the little choux with a pur^e of smoked salmon and
butter, and glaze them with a maigre jelly.

343— NORWEGIAN DUCHESSES

Stuff the choux with a pur^e of Kilkis and butter, and
glaze with jelly.

344— KAROLY ECLAIRS

These are little Eclairs stuffed with a pur^e made from the
entrails of woodcock with champagne. The pur^e is buttered
and slightly seasoned. Cover the Eclairs with a brown chaud-
froid sauce, mask them with game jelly, and serve them, iced, on
ornamented dish-papers.

345— CRAYFISH EN BUISSON

Prepare them in accordance with the recipes " k la nage "
or "k la marini^re," and serve them very cold.

346— MARINADED SMELTS

Fry some well-dried and floured smelts in oil ; as soon
as this is done, put them in a deep dish or a bowl. Add to
the oil, per pint (which quantity should be allowed for every
two lbs. of the fish), eight unpeeled garlic-cloves, an onion,
and a carrot cut into thin, round slices, all of which vegetables
should be slightly fried. Drain off the oil, moisten with one-
quarter pint of vinegar and as much water, and season with a
little salt, two small pimentos, a small bay-leaf, a sprig of
thyme, and a few parsley stalks. Dip the smelts for twelve

152 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

minutes in this marinade, and transfer them to the dish, where
they may be left to marinade for twenty-four hours.
Serve very cold with a portion of the marinade.

347— FENNEL A LA QRECQUE

Same process as for artichokes and celery k la Grecque.

348— FRESH FIGS

Place them on a layer of very green leaves, and surround
them with broken ice.

349— FOIE QRAS

If in the form of a sausage, cut it into thin slices. If potted,
shape it into little shells, after the manner in which butter is
sometimes served, only a little smaller. In all cases serve it
iced, and as soon as it is ready.

350— FRIVOLITIES

I adopted the above term for those small, light, and elegant

little preparations, the radical types whereof are barquettes and
tartlets, which often take the place of hors-d'oeuvres on a menu.
The term seems plain, clear, and explicit, and no other could
denote more happily this series of trifles which constitute mere
gewgaws of the dining-table.

3Si_FROQS OR NYMPHS A L'AURORE

For various reasons, I thought it best, in the past, to sub-
stitute the mythological name " Nymphs " for the more vulgar
term " Frogs " on menus, and the former has been universally
adopted, more particularly in reference to the following
" Chaud-froid k I'Aurore " :—

Poach the frogs' legs in an excellent white-wine court-
bouillon. When cooled, trim them properly, dry them tho-
roughly in a piece of fine linen, and steep them, one after
the other, in a chaud-froid sauce of fish with paprika, the tint
of which should be golden. This done, arrange the treated
legs on a layer of champagne jelly, which should have set
beforehand on the bottom of a square, silver dish or crystal
bowl. Now lay some chervil pluches and tarragon leaves between
the legs in imitation of water-grasses, and cover the whole
with champagne jelly to counterfeit the effect of water.

Send the dish to the table, set in a block of ice, fashioned
as fancy may suggest.

HORS-D'CEUVRES 153

352— SALAD OF FILLETED SALTED HERRINGS

Remove the fillets whole; take off the skins; set to soak and
then trim them. Dish, and cover them with the following
sauce : — Add the pur^e of eight soft roes, moistened with two
tablespoonfuls of vinegar, to four tablespoonfuls of mayonnaise.
Season with onion, parsley, chervil, chives, and tarragon, all
finely chopped; flavour moderately with cayenne.

353— FRESH HERRINGS MARINADED IN WHITE WINE

For twelve herrings, put one pint of white wine into a sauce-
pan, with one-quarter pint of vinegar, an onion cut into thin
slices, half a carrot cut into grooved roundels, a faggot,
the necessary salt, and a few peppercorns. Set to boil gently
for twenty minutes.

Place the cleaned herrings in a saut6-pan, pour the boiling
marinade upon them, and let them poach for fifteen minutes.

Serve them very cold with the marinade, the roundels of
carrot, and thin strips of onion.

354— LUCAS HERRINGS

Raise the fillets from fine salted herrings, soak them first in
cold water, and then in milk for an hour.

Prepare a sauce as follows : — Beat up the yolks of two eggs
in a bowl with salt and pepper and one tablespoonful of
mustard; add five tablespoonfuls of oil and two of vinegar,
proceeding as in the case of mayonnaise, and complete with
shallots and one dessertspoonful of chopped chervil and
gherkins. Season with cayenne, immerse the drained and dried
fillets of herrings in this sauce, and send them to the table on
a hors-d'oeuvre dish.

355— HERRINGS A LA LIVONIENNE

Take some fine salted herrings' fillets, clean them, and cut
them into dice. Place these in a bowl, and add thereto, in
equal quantities, some cold, boiled potatoes and russet apples
cut into dice, parsley, chervil, and chopped fennel and tarragon.
Season with oil and vinegar, salt and pepper; make the pre-
paration into shapes resembling herrings, and place the heads
and tails, which should have been put aside for the purpose, at
each extremity of every supposed herring.

356— HERRINGS A LA RUSSE

Cut some fine, cleaned fillets of salted herrings into thin
slices. Dish up, and alternate the rows of sliced fillets with

154 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

rows of sliced, cold, boiled potatoes. Season with oil and
vinegar, and finish up with chopped chervil, fennel, tarragon,
and shallots.

357— HERRINGS WITH FRENCH BEANS

These hors-d'oeuvres can only be served at their best in
the months of September and October, when the first shoals
of herrings begin to appear. Dutch fishermen know of a means
of salting and marinading this fish, which greatly increases
its value, and it is not unusual to pay as much as two or three
shillings for one in the early part of the season. They can only
be kept a few days, but they form an excellent dish, and their
flavour Is exquisite. Before serving them, it is only needful
to skin them, whereupon they may be dished up with a little
chopped parsley. Send a bowl of French beans to the table
with them, the vegetables having been freshly cooked, kept
somewhat firm, buttered, and not cooled. Some cooks serve
the beans cold, in the form of a salad, but as a rule they are
preferred hot with butter, while the herrings should be very
cold.

358— OYSTERS

The best oysters to be had are those of Whitstable, Col-
chester, Burnham, and Zeeland. The green, French Marennes,
which might equal the above, are not favoured by everyone on
account of their colour. Ostend oysters are also excellent, but
they are neither as delicate nor as fleshy as the English ones.

Oysters are the dish par excellence; their delicacy satisfies
the most fastidious of epicures, and they are so easily digested
that the most delicate invalid can partake of them freely. With
the exception of caviare, they are the only hors-d'oeuvres which
should ever appear on the menu of a well-ordered dinner.

Oysters ought to be served very cold; hence the prevailing
custom of dishing them on ice. In England they are served
plain on the flat half of the shell, whereas in France and else-
where they are left in the hollow half, which is better calculated
to retain the natural liquor of the oyster, held in high esteem
by many. Send some slices of brown bread and butter to the
table with the oysters.

The various methods of treating oysters will be given here-
after in the chapter dealing with fish. I have given them
merely because consumers and caterers alike may wish to have
them ; but the real and be§t way of serving oysters is to send
them to the table raw.

HORS-D'CEUVRES 155

359— ARDENNES HAM

This is served like smoked breast of goose, cut, raw, into
thin and even slices.

360— CANTALOUP MELON

Melon makes an excellent hors-d'oeuvre for summer
luncheons. It should be just ripe, and have a nice perfume.
Serve it as fresh as possible.

361— ENGLISH MELONS

The English variety of melons is inferior in quality to the
French.

Their shape is oval, their peel is yellow, thin, and smooth,
and their pulp, which is white, more nearly resembles the
water-melon than the melon in flavour.

362— MELON WITH PORT, MARSALA, OR SHERRY, &c.

Select a Cantaloup or other melon of the same kind as the
former, and let it be just ripe. Make a round incision about
the stalk, three inches in diameter; withdraw the plug thus
cut, and through the resulting hole thoroughly remove all the
pips by means of a silver spoon.

Now pour one-half pint of best Port, Marsala, or Sherry
into the melon, replace the plug, and keep the melon for two
or three hours in a cooler surrounded by broken ice. Do not
cut the melon into slices when serving it. It should be taken
to the table, whole, and then the piece containing the stalk
is withdrawn and the fruit is cut into shell-like slices with a
silver spoon, and served with a little of the accompanying wine
upon iced plates.

363— VARIOUS MELONS

France produces a large variety of melons, of which the
principal kinds are the Sucrins of Tours, the St. Laud melon,
the black melons of the Carmes, &c. They are all excellent,
and are served like the Cantaloups.

364— NATIVES WITH CAVIARE

This is a typically luxurious hors-d'oeuvre. Cook some
little tartlet crusts for hors-d'oeuvre (No. 314). When about
to dish up, garnish these with a tablespoonful of fine, fresh
caviare; make a hollow in the latter and place therein a fine
Whitstable oyster (cleared of its beard), seasoned with a little
powdered pepper and a drop of lemon-juice.

156 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

365— SMOKED BREAST OF GOOSE

Cut it into the thinnest possible slices, and garnish with
very green parsley.

366— PLAIN OLIVES

Olives of all kinds are suitable for hors-d'oeuvres, and they
are served plain. Three or four varieties are known, all of
which are excellent, provided they be fleshy, firm, very green,
and moderately salted.

367— STUFFED OLIVES

For this purpose, select large Spanish olives and stone them,
either by cutting them spirally, or by means of a special
machine. In the place of the stone, put one of the butters or
creams for hors-d'oeuvres (Nos. 280 to 299). Before serving
these olives, it is well to let them rest awhile in a moderately
warm atmosphere. For, since stuffed olives are generally kept
in the cool, immersed in oil with which they become thoroughly
saturated, it follows that the moment they are put into contact
with a slightly higher temperature they will exude that oil.
Wherefore, if the above precaution were not observed, by the
time the olives reached the table they would, more often than
not, be swimming in oil, when they would be neither nice nor
appetising.

368— PLAIN LAPWINGS' AND PLOVERS' EGGS

Though the lapwing and the plover are different in respect
of their plumage, they are, nevertheless, birds of similar
habits and haunts, and their eggs are remarkably alike. The
latter, which are a little larger than pigeons' eggs, have a light-
green shell covered with black spots.

When cooked, the albuminous portions acquire a milky
colour, and never assume the solidity of the whites of other
eggs.

When served as a hors-d'oeuvre, these eggs are always
boiled hard. Put them in a saucepan of cold water, and leave
them to cook for eight minutes after the boil is reached. Cool
them, shell their pointed ends, and serve them in a nest com-
posed of watercress or curled-leaf parsley.

N.B. — Test the freshness of the eggs before boiling them
by plunging them in a bowl of cold water. If they float, their
freshness is doubtful, and they should be discarded.

HORS-D'CEUVRES 157

369— LAPWINGS' EGGS IN ASPIC

Decorate a border-mould according to taste, and let a
thin coating of very clear aspic jelly set on the bottom of the
utensil. Besprinkle the articles used in decorating with a few
drops of melted jelly, in order to keep them from shifting;
then cover them with a few tablespoonfuls of jelly, and let it
set. On this coating of jelly arrange the shelled, hard-boiled
lapwings' eggs with their points downwards, so that they
may appear upright when the aspic is withdrawn from the
mould. Fill up the mould by means of successive layers of
melted jelly.

When about to serve, dip the mould into hot water ; quickly
wipe it, and then turn the aspic out on to a folded napkin lying
on a dish.

370— LAPWINGS' EGGS A LA MODERNE

Boil the eggs soft ; mould them in dariole-moulds, coated
with jelly, and garnished in Chartreuse fashion. Heap a
vegetable-salad, thickened with mayonnaise, in the middle of
the dish, and place the eggs removed from their moulds all
round.

371— LAPWINGS' EGGS A LA CHRISTIANA

Cook the eggs as above ; shell them ; slice a piece off their
thicker ends to make them stand, and arrange them on a dish,
placing them upon little tartlet-crusts, garnished with a foie-
gras purde.

For twelve eggs put two tablespoonfuls of foie-gras purde
in a small saucepan ; add thereto one tablespoonful of chopped
truffles and as much melted jelly, the latter with a view to
making the preparation more liquid. Take some of this pre-
paration in a tablespoon and pour it over the eggs, taking
care that each of these gets well covered with it. Let the
coating set in the cool, and dish up the tartlets on a napkin,
arranging them in the form of a circle with curled-leaf parsley
as a centre-garnish.

372— LAPWINGS' EGGS A LA MOSCOVITE

Boil the eggs hard; cool and shell them. Prepare as many
tartlet-crusts as there are eggs. When dishing up, garnish
the tartlets with a coffeespoonful of caviare, and place one
egg in the middle of each.

158 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

373— VARIOUS HARD-BOILED EGGS

With hard-boiled eggs for base, a large number of hors-
d'oeuvres may be made. I shall limit myself to a few only,
which, by means of a small change in their form, garnish, or
ornamentation, may be varied at will: —

Egg Discs. — Cut the eggs laterally into roundels one-third
inch in thickness, and discard the two end-pieces of each egg,
in order that the shapes may be almost uniform, and that the
yolks may appear about the same size throughout. In the
centre of each roundel make a little rosette of butter, by means
of a small, grooved pipe. Different butters, such as the
Shrimp, Montpellier, Caviare, and other kinds, may be used
with the view of varying the colours.

Halved, Stuffed Eggs. — Take some very small, hard-boiled
eggs; cut them into two, lengthwise; remove the yolk's, and
trim the oval hollow of each of the remaining whites to the
shape of an oblong, the edges of which may then be indented.

Garnish, either with a pur^e of tunny, salmon, milt, &c.,
or a hash or salpicon of lobster, shrimp, &c., thickened by
means of a mayonnaise with jelly, or a fine viacedoine of vege-
tables with mayonnaise, or a pur^e composed of the withdrawn
yolks combined with a little butter, some cold Bechamel sauce,
and herbs.

Quartered, Stuffed Eggs. — The simplest way of doing this
is to proceed as above, to stuff the halved white with a buttered
pur^e, or a pur^e mixed with jelly, to leave the stuffing to set,
and then to cut the halves in two.

Salad of Eggs. — With alternate rows of sliced eggs and
either tomatoes, potatoes, cucumbers, or beetroot, and a salad-
seasoning composed of oil and vinegar or cream, a dozen
different salads may be prepared, each of which constitutes an
excellent hors-d'oeuvre.

374— LARK PATE

For this hors-d'oeuvre use the ready-made pate, which is
obtained either in pots or crusts. Thoroughly set it by means
of ice; turn it out of its receptacle, cut it into very small and
thin slices, and arrange them on a hors-d'oeuvre dish with a
little broken jelly in the middle.

375— MILD, GRILLED CAPSICUM

Grill the capsicum on a moderate fire until the skins are
so scorched as to be easily removed.

HORS-D'CEUVRES 159

Now cut them up julienne-fashion, and season with oil and
vinegar.

376— RADISHES

In the preparation of hors-d'oeuvres by the Icitchen, radishes
are used chiefly as a garnish. When they constitute a hors-
d'oeuvre of themselves, their preparation is relegated to the
pantry.

They are used especially in imitating the pendulous flowers
of the fuchsia; sometimes, too, they are sliced and placed on
cut cucumber to form a dish-border; but their uses in garnish-
ing are as numerous as they are various.

377— AMERICAN RELISHES

These consist of divers kinds of fruit and of small onions
and gherkins, prepared with vinegar, seasoned with sugar and
cinnamon, and flavoured with cayenne.

They resemble what the Italians call " Aceto-dolce." This
hors-d'oeuvre is accompanied by special cinnamon biscuits,
and remains on the table throughout the meal.

378— RILLETTES AND RILLONS

Both these preparations, which belong to the province of
the pork-butcher, may be found on the market.

The rillettes are served in their pots, and are always sent
to the table very cold.

379— RED MULLET A L'ORIENTALE

Select small ones, as far as possible. Place them in an
oiled pan, and add peeled and concussed tomatoes, parsley-
root, fennel, thyme, bay, a little garlic, peppercorns, coriander,
and saffron, the latter being the dominating ingredient.

Cover the whole with white wine; salt moderately, set to
boil, and then leave to poach on the side of the fire for twelve
or eighteen minutes, in accordance with the size of the mullet.

Leave the fish to cool in their cooking-liquor, and serve
them with a little of the latter and a few slices of peeled lemon.

380— SARDINES

The various kinds of sardines for hors-d'oeuvres may be
found on the market.

381— SALADS

Salads for hors-d'oeuvres may consist of an endless diversity
of products, and their preparation varies so that it would be

i6o GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

impossible to prescribe fixed rules for the latter. I shall there-
fore restrict myself to saying merely that they should be made
as light and as sightly as possible, in order that they may be
in keeping with the general idea and purpose of hors-d'oeuvre.

382— QOTHA AND MILAN SALAMI

Cut these into very thin slices, and place them, one on top
of the other, on a hors-d'oeuvre dish, in the form of a crown,
with a sprig of curled-leaf parsley in the middle. They may
also be laid flat upon a litter of parsley.

383— ARLES, BOLOQNE OR LARGE LYONS SAUSAGES

Cut these up and arrange them like the Salami.

384— FOIE-GRAS SAUSAGES

Cut into thin roundels and dish up with chopped aspic jelly
as a centre-garnish.

385— SMOKED SALMON

Cut into triangular, thin slices; roll these into cones, and
arrange in the form of a crown with curled-leaf parsley in the
middle.

386— SPRATS

These are smoked sardines. Select the very fleshy ones,
for there exist many kinds, a few of which are dry and quite
flavourless.

In order to prepare them, suppress the heads and remove
or leave on the skins, in accordance with the consumer's taste.
Put them on a dish with some finely-chopped shallots, chopped
parsley, and oil and vinegar, using a very little of each in-
gredient. Leave them to marinade for five or six hours, taking
care to turn them over from time to time so as to thoroughly
saturate them with the marinade.

387— TARTLETS AND BARQUETTES

These articles play an important part in the service of hors-
d'oeuvres, and represent the class I designated under the name
of Frivolities.

The garnishes suitable for tartlets are likewise used with
barquettes, the latter only differing from the former in their
shape. The directions which follow below, and which should
be carefully noted, apply equally to both.

HORS-D'CEUVRES i6i

Special Paste jor Tartlets and Barquettes. — Sift one lb. of
flour on to a mixing-board; make a hole in the centre, into
which put one-eighth oz. of salt, one-half lb. of cold, melted
butter, one egg, the yolks of two, and a few drops of water.
Mix the whole into a paste, handling it as little as possible;
roll it into a ball, and put it aside in the cool for two hours.

The Preparation of Tartlet- and Barquette-crusts. — Roll out
the paste to the thickness of one-eighth inch, and stamp it with
an indented fancy-cutter into pieces of the same size as the
tartlet-moulds to be used, which in this case are the same as for
" petits fours," and, therefore, very small.

The fancy-cutter should be round for tartlets, and oval for
barquettes. Lay the paste in the moulds, prick the parts lying
on the bottom, lest they should blister, garnish the insides with
pieces of kitchen-paper to protect the paste, and fill them with
rice or flour. Bake in a moderate oven; remove the rice or
flour, the sole object of which was to preserve the shape of the
tartlets or barquettes ; turn the latter out of their moulds, and
set them to cool.

The Garnishes of Tartlets and Barquettes. — These may be
divided into two classes, viz., (i) those with a compound butter
for base, (2) those with an aspic jelly base.

The first class comprises all the garnishes I gave for Canapes
and Toast, as also all those which the operator's fancy, taste,
and inventiveness may devise.

The second class generally consists of a layer, on the bottom,
of some kind of mousse, upon which a whole piece of a different
colour from the mousse is placed, and which is then coated
with a very clear jelly.

Example. — Garnish the bottom of a tartlet or barquette with
a coating of pink, shrimp, crayfish or lobster mousse. Upon
this lay a very white poached oyster, or a slice of hard-boiled
egg, stamped with an indented fancy-cutter. In the centre of
the yolk put a little lobster coral, and coat the whole with jelly
to the level of the tartlet edges.

The explanations given above warrant my refraining from
a more detailed discussion of these delicate preparations. Suffi-
cient has been said to allow of any operator, with a little taste
and inventiveness, easily making an endless variety of com-
binations.

388— TUNNY IN OIL

This is found on the market, and it may be served as it
stands. It is very greatly used as a garnish for hors-d'oeuvres.

M

1 62 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

389— TUNNY WITH TOMATOES

Lay alternate slices of tunny and tomato upon a hors-
d'oeuvre dish, and between each slice lay a thin round of onion.
Garnish the edge of the dish with a border composed of sliced
potato, and sprinkle the whole with an ordinary salad
seasoning.

390— MOCK TOMATOES

Select some about the size of a walnut, and peel them care-
fully. Press them in a piece of linen, and set them to marinade
for half an hour in oil and vinegar. Then stick a small piece
of parsley stalk into each tomato, in imitation of the stalk, and
surround it with little leaves made from green butter by means
of a small piping-bag.

391— TOMATOES A L'AMERICAINE

Select some firm, medium-sized tomatoes, and cut them into
thin slices. Put them into a dish with salt, pepper, oil, and
a few drops of vinegar, and leave them to marinade for twenty
minutes. Then arrange them on a hors-d'oeuvre dish, gar-
nishing the border with fine rings of onion.

392— TOMATOES A LA MONEQASQUE

Select some small tomatoes about the size of walnuts, and
cut a slice from each in the region of the stalk. Squeeze out
all their water and seeds, and viarinade them, inside, for
twenty minutes. Prepare a mince of tunny with oil, and add
thereto, per two oz. of the fish, half a tablespoonful of finely-
chopped onion, a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, chervil, and
tarragon, and a small, hard-boiled egg, also chopped.

Thicken the whole with a tablespoonful of thick mayon-
naise; put it into a bag fitted with a smooth, medium-sized
pipe, and garnish the tomatoes with the preparation, using
enough of the latter to form a kind of dome upon each tomato.

393_QUARTERED TOMATOES

Use medium-sized tomatoes, somewhat firm and with very
smooth skins. Peel them and empty them, and then fill them,
either with a fish puree cleared with jelly, or with a macedoine
of vegetables thickened by means of a mayonnaise with jelly.
Place on ice for half an hour, and cut the tomatoes into
regular quarters. The tomatoes may also be cut into four,
previous to stuffing them, whereupon they may, with the help

HORS-D*CElJVRES 163

of a piping-bag fitted with a grooved pipe, be filled with one
of the compound butters.

394— MARINADED TROUT

Select some very small trout, clean and dress them, and
poach them in a white-wine court-bouillon (No. 164) to which
vinegar has been added in the proportion of one-third of its
volume.

Leave the fish to cool in the liquor, and dish up with a few
tablespoonfuls of the latter, placing some thin, grooved slices
of lemon upon the fish.

M 2

CHAPTER XII

EGGS

Of all the products put into requisition by the art of cookery,
not one is so fruitful of variety, so universally liked, and so
complete in itself as the egg. There are very few culinary
recipes that do not include eggs, either as a principal con-
stituent or as an ingredient.

The many and various egg-preparations constitute chiefly
breakfast or luncheon dishes; nevertheless, at a Lenten dinner
they rriay be served as entries with advantage, for, at a time
when fish, shell-fish, and water-game are the only resources
in this respect, eggs form a pleasant and welcome change.

395— EQQS ON THE DISH

Eggs cooked in this way derive all their quality from the
way in which the cooking process is conducted. They must
be evenly cooked, on top and underneath, and should remain
soft. An important condition of the process is that the eggs
should be exceedingly fresh. After having heated sufficient
butter in the dish to cover the whole of the bottom, break two
eggs into it, baste the yolks with a little very hot butter, salt
them slightly, and push them into the oven. As soon as the
white of the eggs assumes a milky-white colour, they are cooked
and should be withdrawn from the oven to be served imme-
diately.

Great attention should be bestowed upon the cooking pro-
cess, a few seconds more or less than the required time being
sufficient to spoil the eggs. Special care ought to be taken
that they do not cook either too much or too quickly, for it
should be remembered that, even were the cooking checked
before the proper time, the heat of the dish does, to a certain
extent, make good the deficiency.

Eggs a la poele, which, in England, are called "fried
eggs," are a variety of eggs on the dish, very often served on
toast, or accompanied by sausages or fried bacon. They are

EGGS 165

cooked in an omelet-pan, trimmed neatly witli a fancy-cutter,
and placed, by means of a spatula, upon the prepared toast.

About one-half oz. of butter should be allowed for every
two eggs, which number constitutes the working-base of the
following recipes.

396— BERCY EQQS

Put half of the butter to be used in a dish; let it melt, break
the eggs, taking care not to burst the yolks; baste the latter
with the rest of the butter, and season. Cook as directed —
that is to say, until the whites are quite done and the yolks are
glossy. Garnish with a small, grilled sausage, placed between
the yolks, and surround with a thread of tomato sauce.

397— EQQS WITH BROWN BUTTER

There are two methods : (i) Cook the eggs in a dish as
usual, and then cover them with one-quarter oz. of brown butter
and a few drops of vinegar, which should be added after the
butter.

(2) Put one-half oz. of butter into a small omelet-pan,
and cook it until it is almost black. Break the eggs into it,
season, cook, tilt them gently on to a dish, and besprinkle with
a few drops of vinegar, with which the omelet-pan has been
rinsed.

398— EQQS CHASSEUR

Cook the eggs as per No. 395. This done, garnish on
either side with a tablespoonful of sliced chicken's liver, rapidly
sauted and cohered with a little Chasseur sauce.

399— DEVILLED EQQS

Cook the eggs in the omelet-pan ; turn them, after the
manner of pancakes, taking care lest they break. Slide them
gently into a dish, and besprinkle them with brown butter and
a few drops of vinegar with which the omelet-pan has been
rinsed.

400— EQQS A LA FLORENTINE

Garnish the bottom of a dish with spinach-leaves stewed
in butter ; sprinkle thereon two pinches of grated cheese ; break
the eggs upon this garnish, and cover them with two table-
spoonfuls of Mornay sauce. Place in a fierce oven, so that
the cooking and glazing of the eggs may be effected simul-
taneously.

1 66 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

401— EQQS AU QRATIN

Put a tablespoonful of very hot Mornay sauce into a dish.
Break the eggs into it, cover them with Mornay sauce,
sprinkle with grated cheese mixed with fine raspings, and cook
in a fierce oven, in order that the eggs and the gratin may be
done at the same time.

402— ISOLINE EGGS

Cook the eggs according to No. 395. Place between them,
and all round the dish, some small, halved tomatoes k la Pro-
ven9ale. Put in the centre of each halved tomato a fine
chicken's liver sauted with Madeira.

403— JOCKEY CLUB EGGS

Cook the eggs in an omelet-pan ; tilt them gently on to a
dish, and trim them with a round fancy-cutter. Place each
egg upon a round, thin piece of toast, and then cover them
with foie-gras pur6e. Arrange them in the form of a crown,
on a dish, and pour into the middle a garnish of calf's kidneys
cut into dice and sauted, and truflBes similarly cut, the latter
being cohered by means of some dense half-glaze.

404— LULLY EQQS

Cook the eggs in an omelet-pan, and cut them with a round
fancy-cutter. Place each egg on a slice of raw ham, cut to
the same shape as the former, and fried in butter. Then place
the egg and ham on toast similarly shaped and of the same
size. Arrange the eggs in a circle round the dish, and garnish
the middle of it with macaroni combined with concassed to-
matoes stewed in butter.

405— MEYERBEER EQQS

Cook the eggs as in No. '395. Place a small, grilled sheep's
or lamb's kidney between each yolk, and surround with a thread
of P^rigueux sauce.

406— MIRABEAU EGGS

Substitute for ordinary butter, anchovy" butter. Break the
eggs and cook them. Surround each yolk with anchovy fillets,
and garnish each of these with a spray of parboiled tarragon
leaves. Place a large olive stuffed with tarragon butter on
either side of the yolks.

EGGS 167

407— OMER- PACHA EQQS

Garnish a dish with a large tablespoonful of minced onions
cooked in butter and unbrowned. Break the eggs over the
garnish, sprinkle them with a small tablespoonful of dry, grated
Parrhesan cheese, and cook in a sufficiently fierce oven for a
slight gratin to form as soon as the eggs are done.

408— PARMENTIER EGOS

Bake some fine Dutch potatoes in the oven. Open them,
from above, with an oval fancy-cutter; remove the pulp from
the inside, rub it through a sieve, and make a smooth pur^e
of it. Half-fill the potato-shells with this pur^e, break an egg
into each, besprinkle with cream, and cook in the oven. Re-
place the part of the baked shell removed in the first instance,
and dish up on a napkin.

409— EQQS A LA PORTUQAISE

Put a tablespoonful of tomato fondue into a dish. Break
the eggs upon this, season, and cook. Between the eggs and
at each end of the dish put a little heap of tomato fondue, and
on each of the heaps drop a pinch of chopped parsley.

410— EQQS A LA REINE

Cook the eggs in an omelet-pan, and trim them with a round
fancy-cutter. Put each egg upon a small disc of Duchesse
potatoes, of the same size as the egg, previously browned in
the oven. Arrange the eggs in a circle round the dish; in
the middle put a chicken mincemeat, and surround with a
border of Supreme sauce.

Poached and Soft-boiled Eggs

All the recipes given hereafter apply equally to poached and
soft-boiled eggs, wherefore I shall only mention ' ' poached ' '
in the titles, leaving soft-boiled to be understood.

411— PROCEDURE FOR POACHED EQQS

The one and only essential condition in this case is the
use of perfectly fresh eggs, for it is quite impossible to expect
an even poaching if this condition is not fulfilled.

(i) Have ready a saut^-pan containing boiling salted water
(one-third oz. of salt per quart of water), slightly acidulated with
vinegar. Break the eggs over that part of the water which is
actually boiling.

1 68 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

(2) In order that the eggs may poach freely, do not put more
than eight or ten at a time into the same saut(^-pan ; better even
poach them six at a time, for then the poaching will be effected
more equally.

(3) As soon as the eggs are in the water, let the latter
simmer. The egg is poached when the white has enveloped
the yolk, reassuming, as it were, the form of a raw egg, and
when it may be touched without breaking. The usual time
allowed for poaching is three minutes.

(4) Withdraw the eggs by means of a slice; dip them into
cold water, trim their whites, and put them back into moderately
warm water until ready to serve.

412— THE COOKING OF SOFT-BOILED EGQS

These ought to be very fresh, as in the case of poached
eggs. With a view to equalising their cooking, it is a good
plan to put them in a colander perforated with large holes,
whereby they may be plunged into and withdrawn from the
water together. Keep the water boiling ; plunge the eggs
therein as directed; leave them to cook for six minutes from
the time the water has regained the boiling-point; drain, steep
for a moment in a bowl of cold water, and shell the eggs care-
fully. Keep them in moderately-salted hot water until ready
to serve.

413— THE DISHING OF POACHED AND SOFT-BOILED EGQS

There are many ways of doing this, viz. : —
(i) On rusks of bread-crumb, slightly hollowed, ornamented
according to taste (i.e., indented by means of the point of a
small knife) and fried in clarified butter. Their shape is oval
for poached eggs, and round for soft-boiled eggs, the latter
being generally dished upright.

(2) On little, oval feuilletes for poached eggs, on feuilletes
in the shape of indented crowns, or in small patties for soft-
boiled eggs.

(3) In borders of forcemeat or other preparations, the kind of
which is indicated by the name of the particular egg-prepara-
tion. These borders are laid on the dish by means of a piping-
bag or by hand; they are either oval or round, plain or in-
dented, poached or oven-browned, according to the nature of
the preparation used.

(4) On tartlet-crusts which are garnished so as to be in keep-
ing with the method of dressing the eggs.

EGGS 169

Remarks. — (i) Poached or soft-boiled eggs, when dished
upon fried rusks, feuilletes, or tartlets, should, before being
placed on the latter, be covered with sauce. Also before being
treated with sauce they should be well drained.

(2) Having given the general outlines of the procedure, I
shall now pass on to the particular recipes, stating them briefly,
and reminding the reader that all of them apply equally to
poached and soft-boiled eggs. Thus " Poached Eggs Mireille "
stands for " Poached or Soft-boiled Eggs Mireille."

414— POACHED EQQS ARQENTEUIL

Garnish the bottom of some tartlet-crusts with asparagus
cut into pieces and cooked, and six green asparagus-heads,
about one and one-half inches in length, arranged like a star.
Place an egg, coated with cream sauce mixed with half its
volume of asparagus pur^e, upon each tartlet.

415— POACHED EGGS A L'AURORE

Coat the eggs with Aurora sauce, and dish them on oval
feuilletes if poached, or upright on feuilletes in the shape of
rings if soft-boiled.

416— POACHED EQQS EN BERCEAU

Bake some fine Dutch potatoes in the oven. Cut each potato
in half, lengthwise, with the point of a small knife, and remove
the pulp. Emptied in this way, the halved potatoes resemble
little cradles. Coat the interior of each cradle with a fine
chicken mincemeat mixed with cream, and place an egg coated
with Aurora sauce in each.

417— POACHED EQQS A LA BOHEMIENNE

Garnish the bottom of some tartlet-crusts with a salpicon
of foie-gras and truffles cohered with a few tablespoonfuls of
the following sauce : — For six eggs, dissolve one teaspoonful
of white-meat glaze; add thereto half a teaspoonful of truffle
essence, and finish with a lump of butter about the size of a
pigeon's egg. Take enough of this sauce to effect the cohering
of the salpicon ; coat the eggs with Hungarian sauce, and place
one upon each garnished tartlet.

418— POACHED EQQS BOIELDIEU

Garnish the tartlets with a white-chicken-meat, foie-gras,
and truffle salpicon cohered with poultry velout^. Coat the
eggs with a reduced and thickened poultry gravy.

I70 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

419— POACHED EGGS A LA BRUXELLOISE

Garnish some tartlet-crusts with braised, minced endives
thicliened with cream. Place an egg, coated with cream sauce,
upon each ; sprinkle moderately with biscotte raspings, and
set to glaze quickly in a fierce oven.

420— POACHED EGGS A LA CLAMART

Garnish some tartlet-crusts with small, green peas, cooked
a la fran9aise (No. 2193), and mixed with finely ciseled lettuce
which should have cooked with them. Place an egg, coated
with cream sauce which has been finished with fresh-pea butter,
upon each.

421— POACHED EGGS COLBERT

Garnish some tartlet-crusts with a macedoine cohered with
Bechamel. Place a plainly-poached egg upon each, and send
Colbert butter, separately, to the table with the tartlets.

422— POACHED EGGS A LA COMTESSE

Garnish some tartlet-crusts with white asparagus pur^e.
Place an egg coated with AUemande sauce upon each, and
sprinkle with very black chopped truffles.

423— POACHED EGGS GRAND DUC

There are two modes of procedure : — (a) Place the eggs on
fried rusks, with a nice slice of truffle on each ; arrange them
in a circle round the dish, coat with Mornay sauce, and set to
glaze in a fierce oven. On withdrawing the dish from the
oven, put in the centre a garnish composed of asparagus-heads
and a small faggot of the latter, very green and cooked.
(b) Prepare a croustade, moulded in a flawn ring, the size of
which must be in proportion to the number of eggs to be
served. Arrange the eggs in a circle in the croustade, coat
them with Mornay sauce, and set to glaze in a fierce oven.
On withdrawing the croustade from the oven, garnish its centre
with asparagus-heads and a small faggot as above.

424— POACHED EGGS MAINTENON

Garnish some tartlet-crusts with a Soubise k la Bechamel,
slightly thickened by reduction. Coat the eggs with Mornay
sauce, besprinkle with grated cheese, and place them in the
crusts by means of a slice.

Set to glaze in a fierce oven, and, on withdrawing the dish

EGGS 171

from the oven, surround the crusts with a thread of melted
meat-glaze.

435— POACHED EQQS MASS^NA

Heat some medium-sized artichoke-bottoms in butter.
Slightly hollow them, if necessary, and garnish each with a
tablespoonful of B^arnaise sauce. Place an egg, coated with
tomato sauce, upon each artichoke-bottom ; then place a slice
of poached marrow upon each egg, and a little chopped parsley
upon each slice of marrow.

426— POACHED EGGS MIREILLE

Slightly press some saffroned pilaff rice in buttered tartlet
moulds.

Prepare as many pieces of toast of the same size as the
tartlets, and fry them in oil. Place an egg, coated with cream
sauce, finished with saffron, upon each. Turn the rice-tartlets
out of the moulds, and arrange them in a circle on a dish,
alternating them with the eggs on toast; put a cofifeespoonful
of concussed tomatoes, stewed in butter and kept rather thick,
upon each rice-tartlet.

427— POACHED EGGS MORNAY

Coat the eggs with Mornay sauce, and besprinkle with
grated Gruy^re and Parmesan cheese mixed with fine raspings.
Then, by means of a slice, carefully transfer the eggs to pieces
of toast fried in oil. Arrange them in a circle on a dish, sprinkle
each egg with a few drops of melted butter, and set to glaze
quickly in a fierce oven.

428— POACHED EGGS D'ORSAY

Place the eggs upon toast fried in butter. Arrange them
in a circle on a dish, and coat them with Chateaubriand sauce.

429— POACHED EGGS ROSSINI

Garnish some tartlet-crusts, each with a slice of foie gras
(raw if possible) seasoned, dredged with flour, and fried in
butter. Place an egg, coated with thickened veal gravy with
Madeira, on each tartlet, and complete by means of a large slice
of very black truffle on each egg.

430-^POACHED EGGS S^VIQNlfe

Prepare some thin rusks; fry them in clarified butter, and
stuff them with a mince of braised lettuce. Place an egg on

172 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

each stuffed rusk ; coat with velout6 mixed with poultry essence ;
arrange in a circle on a dish, and complete by means of a ring
of very black truffle on each egg.

431— POACHED EGGS VICTORIA

Garnish some tartlet-crusts with a salpicon made from three
oz. of spiny-lobster meat and one-half oz. of truffles, cohered
with three tablespoonfuls of Diplomate sauce. Place an egg,
coated with Diplomate sauce, on each tartlet. Dish, and set
to glaze in a fierce oven.

432— POACHED EGGS WITH RED WINE

These eggs may either be poached with red wine, or in the
ordinary way.

In the first case, the wine used for poaching may serve to
prepare the red wine or Bordelaise sauce (No. 32). In either
case, the eggs are dished on oval rusks, slightly hollowed and
fried in butter; they are coated with the sauce, after having
been dished, and they are quickly glazed.

433— HARD-BOILED EGGS

Boiling eggs hard may seem an insignificant matter, but,
like the other modes of procedure, it is, in reality, of some
importance, and should be effected in a given period of time.
If, for a special purpose, they have to be just done, it is point-
less and even harmful to boil them beyond a certain time-limit,
seeing that any excess in the boiling only makes them tough,
and the whites particularly so, owing to their albuminous nature.
In order to boil eggs uniformly, they should be put into a
colander with large holes, whereby they may be plunged at
the same moment of time into the boiling water. From the
time the water regains the boiling point, eight minutes should
be allowed in the case of medium-sized eggs, and ten minutes
in the case of larger ones; but these times should never be
exceeded. As soon as they are done drain the eggs and dip
them in cold water, and then shell them carefully.

434— HARD-BOILED EGGS CAREME

Have ready beforehand a timbale crust (No. 2395), some-
what shallow.

For six hard-boiled eggs, slice four artichoke-bottoms of
medium size, and stew them in butter; cut some truffles into
slices, allowing four slices to each egg, and cut up the eggs

EGGS 173

into discs about one-half inch thick. Prepare also in advance
one-half pint of Nantua sauce.

Garnish the crust with alternate layers of sliced artichoke-
bottoms, egg-discs, and sliced truffles. Finish with a coating
of sauce and a ring of sliced truffles.

Dish up the crust on a napkin.

435— HARD-BOILED EGOS CHIMAY

Cut the eggs, lengthwise, in two. Remove the yolks, pound
them into a paste, and add thereto an equal quantity of dry
Duxelle (No. '223). Fill the empty whites with the preparation;
place them on a buttered ^raiin-dish ; cover them with Mornay
sauce; besprinkle with grated cheese; pour a few drops of
melted butter upon the sauce, and set to glaze in a fierce oven.

436— HARD-BOILED EGOS IN CROQUETTES

Cut the eggs into small dice (white and yolks). Per six
eggs add five oz. of cooked mushrooms and one oz. of truffles,
cut into dice.

Thicken the whole with one-quarter pint of reduced
Bechamel, and spread on a plate to cool.

When cold, divide the preparation into portions weighing
about two oz. ; roll these portions into balls on a floured mixing-
board, and then shape them like eggs. Dip them into an
anglaise (No. 174), taking care to cover them well with it,
and then roll them in fine and fresh bread-crumbs, letting this
operation avail for finishing off the shape. Put them into hot
fat seven or eight minutes before dishing up ; drain, salt
moderately, place on a napkin, with a centre garnish of very
green, fried parsley, and send a cream sauce to the table with
them.

437— HARD-BOILED EGGS IN RISSOLES

Make a preparation of eggs, as for the croquettes, using a
little more sauce. Roll some puff-paste trimmings to a thick-
ness of one-quarter inch, and stamp it with a round indented
cutter two and one-half inches in diameter.

Place a small tablespoonful of the preparation in the middle
of each piece of paste; moisten slightly all round, and make
the rissoles by folding the outside edges of the paste over one
another to look like a closed purse, taking care to press them
well together so as to join them, thus completely enclosing the
preparation. Treat them a I' anglaise; put them into hot fat

174 ■ GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

eight minutes before serving, and dish up on a napkin, with
a centre garnish of parsley.

438— EQQS A LA TRIPE

For six eggs, finely mince two onions, and stew them in
butter, without letting them acquire any colour. Add thereto
one-half pint of Bechamel sauce, and set to cook gently for
ten minutes. A few minutes before serving add the eggs, cut
into large slices, to the sauce.

Dish up in a timbale.

439— EQQS A LA TRIPE, BOURQEOISE

For six eggs chop up two large onions and stew them in
butter without colouration. Sprinkle them with one-half oz. of
flour, moisten with one pint of boiling milk, and season with
salt, pepper, and nutmeg.

Set to cook, gently, for twenty minutes; rub through a
fine sieve or through tammy, and transfer the preparation to a
saucepan, and heat it well. Dish up the eggs, which should
be quartered, in a timbale, and cover them with the preparation
of onions, very hot.

440— EQQS EN COCOTTE

The poaching of eggs en cocotte is done in the bain-marie.

Cocottes for eggs, which may be replaced by little china or
plaited cases, are a kind of small saucepan in earthenware, in
porcelain, or in silver, provided with a little handle. The time
generally allowed for the cooking or poaching of eggs in this
way is ten minutes, but this time is subject to variations either
way. In order to accelerate the process I should advise the
warming of the cocottes before the insertion of the eggs.

Mode of Procedure. — Having garnished the cocottes and
broken the eggs into them, as directed in the recipes given
hereafter, set them in a saut^-pan and pour therein enough
boiling water to reach within one-half inch of the brims of the
cocottes. Place in the oven and cover, just leaving sufficient
opening for the steam to escape.

The eggs are done when the whites are almost set and the
yolks are glossy. After having properly wiped the cocottes,
dish them on a napkin or on a fancy dish-paper.

441— EQQS IN COCOTTE AU CHAMBERTIN

Prepare a red-wine sauce au Chambertin. Fill the cocottes,
one-third full, with this sauce. Set to boil on a corner of the

EGGS 175

stove; break the eggs into the boiling sauce, season with a
grain of salt, and put the cocottes, one by one, into a saute-pan
containing the necessary quantity of boiling water.

Poach as directed, and set to glaze quickly at the last
moment.

442— EQGS EN COCOTTE WITH CREAM

This preparation constitutes the radical type of this series
of eggs, and, for a long time, was the only one in use. Heat
the cocottes beforehand; pour a tablespoonful of boiling cream
into each, followed by an egg, broken ; season, and add two
little lumps of butter, the size of peas. Place the cocottes in
a bain-marie, and poach as before.

443— EaaS EN COCOTTE A LA JEANNETTE

Garnish the bottom and the sides of the cocottes with a
thickness of one-third inch of chicken-forcemeat with cream,
mixed with a fifth of its volume of foie gras. Break the egg
over the middle, season, and poach in the usual way. When
about to serve, surround the eggs with a thread of poultry
velout^.

444— EQGS EN COCOTTE WITH GRAVY

Break the eggs into buttered cocottes. Season, poach, and,
when about to serve, surround the yolks with a thread of
reduced veal gravy.

445— EGGS EN COCOTTE A LA LORRAINE

Put a teaspoonful of breast of pork, cut into dice and fried,
into each cocotte, also three thin slices of Gruy^re cheese and
one tablespoonful of boiling cream. Break the eggs, season,
and poach in the usual way.

446— EQGS EN COCOTTE A LA MARAICHERE

Garnish the bottom and sides of the cocottes with cooked
spinach, chopped and pressed, and sorrel and lettuce leaves,
both of which should be stewed in butter. Break the eggs,
season, poach in the usual way, and, when about to send the
eggs to the table, drop a fine chervil -pluche on each yolk.

447— EGGS EN COCOTTE WITH MORELS

Garnish the bottom and sides of the cocottes with minced
morels fried in butter and thickened with a little reduced half-
glaze. Break the eggs, season, poach, and surround the yolks
with a thread of half-glaze when dishing up.

176 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

448— EQQS EN COCOTTE A LA SOUBISE

Garnish the bottom and sides of the cocottes with a coating
of thick Soubise purde. Break the eggs, season, and poach.
When dishing up, surround the yolks with a thread of melted
meat-glaze.

449— MOULDED EGGS

These form a very ornamental dish, but the time required
to prepare them being comparatively long, poached, soft-boiled,
and other kinds of eggs are generally preferred in their stead.
They are made in variously shaped moulds, ornamented accord-
ing to the nature of the preparation, and the eggs are broken
into them direct, or they may be inserted in the form of
scrambled eggs, together with raw eggs poached in a hain-
marie.

Whatever be the mode of preparation, the moulds should
always be liberally buttered. The usual time allowed for the
poaching of the eggs in moulds is from ten to twelve minutes,
but when withdrawn from the bain-marie it is well to let the
moulds stand awhile with the view of promoting a settling of
their contents, which action facilitates the ultimate turning out
of the latter.

Empty the moulds on small pieces of toast or tartlets, and
arrange these in a circle round the dish.

450— MOULDED EGGS A LA CARIGNAN

Butter some Madeleine-moulds, shaped like elongated shells,
and garnish them with a thin coating of chicken-stuffing or
crayfish butter. Break the eggs in the middle of the forcemeat;
season, place carefully in a bain-marie, and poach, with cover
on, in the oven, leaving a small opening for the escape of the
generated vapour. Empty the moulds on toast cut to the same
shape as the moulds and fried in butter; arrange them on the
dish, and coat with a Chateaubriand sauce.

451— MOULDED EGGS A LA DUCHESSE

Butter some baba-moulds; garnish the bottom of each with
a large slice of trufHe; break an egg into each, and poach in
the bain-marie. Turn out the moulds on to little fluted galettes
made from Duchesse potatoes and coloured in the oven after
having been gilded.

Dish up in the form of a crown, and coat with a thickened
veal gravy.

EGGS t77

452— QALLI-MAR16, MOULDED EQQS

For four people: (i) Prepare five scrambled eggs, keeping
them very soft ; add thereto three raw, beaten eggs and one tea-
spoonful of capsicum, cut into dice. Mould this preparation in
four little shallow cassolettes, well buttered, and poach in the
bain-marie.

(2) Have ready and hot as many cooked artichoke-bottoms
as there are cassolettes ; the former should have had their edges
fluted. Have also ready a " Rice k la Grecque " (No. 2253).

(3) Garnish the artichoke-bottoms with the rice; turn out
the cassolettes upon the latter; arrange on a dish, and cover
with highly-seasoned and buttered Bechamel sauce. Put the
dish in a fierce oven, so as to glaze quickly, and serve imme-
diately.

453— MOULDED EQQS A LA MORTEMART

Scramble five eggs, keeping them soft, and add thereto three
raw, beaten eggs. Butter some shallow, timbale moulds;
garnish their bottoms with a fine slice of truffle, and fill them
with the preparation of eggs. Poach in a bain-marie.

Turn out each mould on a tartlet-crust, garnished with
mushroom pur6e k la cr6me (No. 2079), and arrange in a circle
on a round dish. Send a sauceboat containing some melted
and buttered meat-glaze to the table with the eggs.

454— NEAPOLITAN MOULDED EQQS

Make a preparation consisting of scrambled eggs and
Parmesan cheese, keeping it very soft; add thereto, per five
scrambled eggs, two raw eggs. Fill some little, well-buttered
brioche-moulds with this preparation, and poach in the bain-
marie. As soon as their contents are properly set, turn out
the moulds on to a buttered gratin dish, besprinkle with grated
Parmesan cheese, and coat the eggs with reduced and buttered
half-glaze, well saturated with tomato.

455— MOULDED EQQS PALERMITAINE

Butter some baba-moulds ; garnish the bottoms with a slice
of truffle, and besprinkle the sides with very red, chopped
tongue. Put the moulds in ice for a while, in order that the
tongue may set in the butter. Break an egg into each mould,
season, and poach in the bain-marie. Turn out the moulds on
tartlet-crusts garnished with macaroni with cream.

N

178 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

456— POLIQNAC MOULDED EQQS

Butter some baba-moulds, and garnish the bottoms with
a slice of truffle. Break an egg into each; season, and poach in
a bain-mane.

Turn out the moulds upon little round pieces of toast;
arrange them in a circle on a dish, and coat the eggs with
Maitre-d' Hotel butter, the latter being dissolved and mixed with
three tablespoonf uls of melted meat-glaze per every one-quarter
lb. of its weight.

457— PRINCESS MOULDED EQQS

Butter some narrow and deep dariole-moulds ; garnish their
bottoms with a slice of very black truffle, and their sides with
a very thin coating of chicken forcemeat.

Make a preparation of scrambled eggs, asparagus-heads,
and truffles cut into dice, keeping them very soft, and add there-
to raw, beaten eggs in the proportion of one raw egg to every
four scrambled.

Fill the moulds, two-thirds full, with this preparation ; cover
the eggs with a coating of forcemeat, and poach in a bain-marie
for twelve minutes.

Turn out the moulds upon little, round pieces of toast; set
these in a circle on a dish, and surround them with a thread
of clear poultry velout6. Or the velout^ may be sent to the
table separately, in a sauceboat.

458— PRINTANIER MOULDED EQQS

Butter some hexagonal moulds, and garnish them. Chart-
reuse-fashion, with cut-up, cooked vegetables, varying the
shades. Break an egg into each mould; season, and poach
in a bain-marie. Turn out the moulds upon little, round pieces
of toast; arrange these in a circle on a dish, and pour in
their midst a cream sauce finished by means of a Printanier
butter with herbs, in the proportion of one oz. of butter to
one-quarter pint of sauce.

459— SCRAMBLED EQQS

This dish is undoubtedly the finest of all egg-preparations,
provided the eggs be not over-cooked, and they be kept soft
and creamy.

Scrambled eggs are mostly served in silver timbales, but, in
certain cases, they may also be dished in special little croustades,
in little receptacles made from hollowed brioches, or in tartlet-

EGGS 179

crusts. Formerly, it was customary to garnish scrambled eggs
served in a silver timbale with small, variously-shaped pieces
of toast, or with small scraps of puff-paste, cooked without
colouration, and shaped like crescents, lozenges, rings, palm-
ettes, &c. This method has something to recommend it, and
may always be adopted. In old cookery, scrambled eggs were
sanctioned only when cooked in a bain-marie. This measure
certainly ensured their being properly cooked, but it consider-
ably lengthened the procedure. The latter may therefore be
shortened by cooking the eggs in the usual way, i.e., in a
utensil in direct contact with the fire; but in this case the heat
must be moderate, in order that, the process of cooking being
progressive and gradual, perfect homogeneity of the particles
of the eggs (effecting the smoothness of the preparation) may
result.

460— METHOD OF SCRAMBLING EQQS

For six eggs, slightly heat one oz. of butter in a thick-
bottomed saut6-pan. Add the six eggs, beaten moderately,
together with a large pinch of salt and a little pepper ; place the
pan on a moderate fire, and stir constantly with a wooden
spoon, taking care to avoid anything in the way of sudden,
fierce heat, which, by instantaneously solidifying the egg-
molecules, would cause lumps to form in the mass — a thing
which, above all, should be guarded against.

When, by cooking, the eggs have acquired the proper con-
sistence, and are still smooth and creamy, take the saut6-pan
off the fire, and finish the preparation by means of one and
one-half oz. of butter (divided into small quantities) and three
tablespoonfuls of cream. Only whisk the eggs to be scrambled
when absolutely necessary.

N.B. — Having given the mode of procedure, which is un-
alterable for scrambled eggs, I shall now pass on, in the follow-
ing recipes, to the various garnishes suited to this kind of dish.
The quantities I give are those required for six scrambled eggs.

461— SCRAMBLED EQGS A LA BOHEMIENNE

Take one cottage brioche for every two eggs. Remove the
tops of the brioches, and the crumb from the remaining portions,
so as to form cases of these. Add one-half oz. of foie gras to
the scrambled eggs, and half as much truffles, cut into dice,
for every two eggs. Fill the emptied brioches with this pre-
paration, and place a slice of trufifle coated with meat-glaze
upon each.

N 2

i8o GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

462— SCRAMBLED EQQS WITH MUSHROOMS

Add to the scrambled eggs one oz. of cooked mushrooms
cut into dice, or raw mushrooms, minced and sauted in butter,
for every two eggs.

Dish in a timbale; put a fine, cooked, and grooved mush-
room in the middle, and surround with a crown of sliced mush-
rooms, also cooked.

463— SCRAMBLED EGGS, CHASSEUR

Dish the scrambled eggs in a timbale. Hollow out the
middle, and place therein a garnish of one fine chicken's liver,
sauted, per every two eggs. Sprinkle a pinch of chervil and
tarragon on the garnish, and surround with a thread of chas-
seur sauce (No. 33).

464— SCRAMBLED EGGS, CHATILLON

Dish the eggs in a timbale, and place a garnish of mush-
rooms in the centre. The mushrooms should first be minced
raw, and then sauted in butter. Sprinkle a pinch of chopped
parsley on the garnish, and surround with a thread of melted
meat-glaze. Border the whole, close to the sides of the timbale,
with small crescents of puff-paste, baked pale.

465— SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH SHRIMPS

Dish the scrambled eggs in a silver timbale. Place a little
heap of shrimps' tails bound with a few tablespoonfuls of
shrimp sauce in the middle, and surround with a thread of the
same sauce.

466— SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH HERBS

Add to the scrambled eggs a tablespoonful of parsley,
chervil pluches, chives, and tarragon leaves in equal quantities
and chopped.

467— SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH CHEESE

Break the eggs, beat them, season, and add thereto, for
every two eggs, one-half oz. of fresh grated Gruy^re cheese, and
as much grated Parmesan. Cook the eggs in the usual way on
a very moderate fire, in order to keep them creamy.

EGGS i8i

468— SCRAMBLED EGOS GRAND=MERE

Add to the scrambled eggs a tablespoonful of little crusts,
cut into dice, fried in clarified butter, and prepared in time to
be inserted into the eggs very hot. Dish in a timbale with a
pinch of chopped parsley in the middle.

469— SCRAMBLED EGGS, GEORGETTE

Bake three fine Dutch potatoes, or six smaller ones, in the
oven. Open them by means of an incision on their tops; with-
draw the pulp from the interior with the handle of a spoon, and
keep the remaining shells hot. Prepare the scrambled eggs in
the usual way, and finish them away from the fire with one and
one-half oz. of crayfish butter, and eight or ten shelled crayfish
tails. Garnish the potato shells with this preparation, and
dish up on a napkin.

470— SCRAMBLED EGGS FOR HOT LUNCHEON

HORS=D'(EUVRE

I only give one recipe of this kind, but the series may be
extended at will without involving much deep research, since
all that is needed for the purpose of variety is the modification
of the garnish and a change in the souffle preparation. The
mode of procedure remains unalterable. Prepare the scrambled
eggs, and garnish them as fancy may suggest. Also make a
" Souffl6 with Parmesan Cheese " (No. 2295a).

Put the scrambled eggs into a large tartlet-crust, cook
without colouration, filling them only two-thirds full. Cover
with the souffle preparation, taking care to make it project in
a mound above the tartlets ; place these on a tray, poach quickly
in a hot oven, and glaze at the same time.

471— SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH MORELS

Add to the scrambled eggs some minced morels, sauted in
butter and seasoned. Dish in timbales, and place a fine, cooked
morel in the centre of each.

472— SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH MOUSSERONS

Proceed as for No. 471.

473— SCRAMBLED EGGS, ORLOFF

Break the eggs, beat them, and add thereto a little fresh,
thick cream. Cook them in the usual way, and add three cray-

1 82 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

fishes' tails per every two eggs. Dish in little porcelain cases,
place a fine slice of truffle in each of the cases, and arrange
these upon a napkin lying on a dish.

474— SCRAMBLED EQQS A LA PIISmONTAISE

Add to the scrambled eggs, per every two of the latter, one-
half oz. of grated Parmesan cheese and a coffeespoonful of raw,
grated. Piedmont truffles. Dish in a timbale, and garnish with
a fine crown of sliced truffles of the same kind as the above.

475_SCRAMBLED EQQS A LA PORTUQAISE

Dish the eggs in a timbale, and place, in the middle, some
fine, concassed tomatoes, seasoned and sauted in butter.
Sprinkle a pinch of concassed parsley on the tomatoes, and
surround with a thread of meat-glaze.

476— SCRAMBLED EQQS, PRINCESS MARY

Prepare some small timbales in dariole-moulds from puff-
paste scraps, and bake them without colouration ; also some
little covers of puff-paste, stamped out with an indented fancy-
cutter, two inches in diameter. Set the covers on a tray, gild
them slightly, place on each a scrap of indented paste, and
leave this uncoloured. Bake the timbales and the covers in a
moderate oven.

Make a preparation of scrambled eggs and Parmesan cheese ;
add to this, away from the fire, two tablespoonfuls of reduced
veloutd with truffle essence and truffles cut into dice.

Garnish the timbales, put a cover on each, and dish up on a
napkin.

477— SCRAMBLED EQQS, RACHEL

Add some truffles, cut into dice, and some asparagus-heads
to the scrambled eggs. Dish on a timbale; put a fine little
faggot of asparagus-heads in the middle, and surround with a
crown of sliced truffles.

478— SCRAMBLED EQQS, REINE MARQOT

Prepare the scrambled eggs in the usual way, and finish
them with the necessary quantity of almond butter. Place this
preparation in small tartlet-crusts, baked without colouration,
and surround the tartlets with a thread of Bechamel sauce,
finished with pistachio butter, the thread of sauce being close
up to the edge of the tartlets.

EGGS 183

480— SCRAMBLED EQQS, ROTHSCHILD

Finely pound the remains of six crayfish (cooked in Mire-
poix) the tails of which have been put aside, and add thereto,
little by little, two tablespoonfuls of thick cream. Rub through
tammy.

Add this crayfish cream to the six beaten eggs; season, and
cook on a moderate fire with the object of obtaining a smooth,
soft, and creamy preparation. Serve in a timbale and garnish,
firstly with a small faggot of asparagus-heads placed in the
middle of the eggs, secondly with crayfish tails arranged in a
circle round the asparagus, and thirdly with large slices of very
black truffles arranged in a crown around the crayfish tails.

481— SCRAMBLED EQQS WITH TRUFFLES

Add one tablespoonful of truffles, cooked in Madeira and
cut into dice, to the scrambled eggs. Place these in a timbale,
and garnish with a crown of sliced truffles.

Or place the preparation in tartlet-crusts, made from trim-
mings of puff-paste and baked without colouration, with a large
slice of truffle on the eggs, in each tartlet.

482— FRIED EQQS

In the long series of egg-preparations, fried eggs are those
which hold the least important place, for the fried eggs which
are so commonly served at breakfasts in England and America
are really eggs a la poele. The real fried egg is almost un-
known in England and America. As a rule, the garnish given
to this kind of eggs is served apart, while the latter are dished,
either on a napkin or on pieces of toast, with a little fried parsley
laid in the middle of the dish.

483— THE PREPARATION OF FRIED EQQS

Any fat, provided it be well purified, may be used for these
eggs, but oil is the more customary frying medium. To do
these eggs properly, only one should be dealt with at a time.

Heat some oil in an omelet-pan until it begins to smoke
slightly ; break the egg on a plate ; season it, and let it slide into
the pan. Then, with a wooden spoon, quickly cover up the
yolk with the solidified portions of the white, in order to keep
the former soft.

Drain the egg on a piece of stretched linen, and proceed
in the same way with the other eggs until the required quantity
has been treated.

1 84 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

484— FRIED EQQS A LA BORDELAISE

Prepare as many halved tomatoes k la Provenfale (see
tomatoes) as there are eggs, adding a pinch of chopped shallots
to each halved tomato. When cooked, garnish them with cepes,
finely minced and sauted k la Bordelaise; place a fried egg on
each garnished half-tomato, and arrange them in a circle on
a dish, with fried parsley in the middle.

485— HARVESTERS' FRIED EGGS

Fry as many blanched rashers of breast of bacon as there
are eggs. Arrange in a circle on a dish, alternating the rasher
with the eggs. Garnish the centre with large peas, cooked
with ciseled lettuce and finely-sliced potatoes.

486— FRIED POACHED EQQS

This kind is recommended, because it may be served with
various garnishes— either vegetables of the same nature, a
macedoine, vegetable purees, or divers cullises, sauces in keep-
ing with the eggs, artichoke-bottoms, mushrooms, morels, &c.
(sliced and sauted in butter), or tomato-fondue, &c.

After having properly drained and dried the poached eggs,
which should have been prepared beforehand, dip them care-
fully in a Villeroy sauce (No. 108), and arrange them, one by
one, on a dish. When the sauce has set, pass the point of a
small knife round the eggs to remove any excess of sauce;
take them off the dish to treat them with an anglaise (No. 174),
and then roll them in very fine, fresh bread-crumbs.

Plunge them into very hot fat three or four minutes before
serving ; drain them on a piece of linen ; salt slightly, arrange
in a circle on a dish, and set the selected garnish in the middle.

487— FRIED EQQS A LA PORTUQAISE

Place each of the fried eggs upon a half-tomato k la Por-
tugaise, i.e., stuffed with rice after having been previously
half-baked in the oven. Arrange in a circle on a dish, and
garnish the centre with concussed tomatoes sauted in butter.

488— FRIED EQQS A LA PROVEN9ALE

Put each fried egg on a half-tomato on a large, thick slice
of egg-plant, seasoned, rolled in flour, and fried in oil.
Set in a circle on a dish, with fried parsley in the centre.

EGGS 185

489— FRIED EGGS A LA ROMAINE

Place the eggs, fried in oil, on little, oval subrics of spinach.
The preparation of spinach should have anchovy fillets, cut
into dice, added to it.

490— FRIED EGGS A LA VERDI

Cut six hard-boiled eggs lengthwise. Remove the yolks,
pound them with two oz. of butter, and add thereto two table-
spoonfuls of thick, cold Bechamel, two tablespoonfuls of cooked
herbs, and one tablespoonful of lean ham, cooked and chopped.
Garnish each half-white of egg with a good tablespoonful of
this preparation, and smooth it with the blade of a small knife,
shaping it in such wise as to represent the other half of the
egg. Dip each whole egg, thus formed, into an anglaise, and
roll in fine, fresh bread-crumbs. Plunge in hot fat six minutes
before serving, and dish on a napkin, with fried parsley in the
centre. Send, separately, to the table a garnish composed of
asparagus-heads .

491— FRIED POACHED EGGS A LA VILLEROY

Prepare the eggs, poached beforehand, as explained under
No. 486. Fry them similarly, and dish them on a napkin, with
a garnish of fried parsley in the centre.

Omelets

The procedure for omelets is at once very simple and very
difficult, for tastes differ considerably in respect of their pre-
paration. Some like them well done, others insist upon their
being just done, while there are yet others who only enjoy them
when they are almost liquid.

Nevertheless, the following conditions apply to all — namely,
that there should be homogeneity of the egg-molecules; that
the whole mass should be smooth and soft; and that it should
be borne in mind that an omelet is in reality scrambled eggs
enclosed in a coat composed of coagulated egg.

I take as my standard an omelet consisting of three eggs,
the seasoning of which comprises a small pinch of table-salt and
a little pepper, and which requires one-half oz. of butter for its
preparation. The quantities of garnishing ingredients given
below, therefore, are based upon this standard.

i86 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

492— THE PREPARATION OF OMELETS

Heat the butter in the omelet-pan, until it exhales the char-
acteristic nutty smell. This will not only lend an exquisite
taste to the omelet, but the degree of heat reached in order to
produce the aroma will be found to ensure the perfect setting
of the eggs.

Pour in the beaten and seasoned eggs, and stir briskly with
a fork, in order to heat the whole mass evenly. If the omelet
is to be garnished inside, this ought to be done at the present
stage, and then the omelet should be speedily rolled up and
transferred to a dish, to be finished in accordance with the nature
of its designation.

When the omelet is on the dish, a piece of butter may be
quickly drawn across its surface, to make it glossy.

493— AONES SOREL OMELET

Stuff the omelet with one tablespoonful of mushrooms,
minced and sauted in butter. Roll it up, and transfer it to a
dish.

Then lay eight small slices of very red tongue upon it, let-
ting their edges overlap ; surround with a thread of veal gravy.

494— OMELET A LA BRUXELLOISE

Stuff the omelet with two tablespoonfuls of braised endives,
ciseled and thickened with cream. Surround with a thread of
cream sauce.

495— OMELET WITH CfePES

Finely mince two oz. of cepes ; toss them in butter in an
omelet-pan until they have acquired a brown colour; add thereto
a pinch of chopped shallots, and toss them again for a moment.

Pour the eggs into the omelet-pan; make the omelet; dish
up, and surround with a thread of half-glaze.

496— OMELET WITH MUSHROOMS

Mince two oz. of raw mushrooms; toss them in butter in an
omelet-pan ; add the eggs thereto, and make the omelet. Trans-
fer it to a dish, lay three little cooked and grooved mushrooms
upon it, and surround with a thread of half-glaze.

EGGS 187

497— OMELET A LA CHOISY

Stuff the omelet with two tablespoonfuls of braised lettuce ;
the latter should have been ciseled and cohered by means of
cream sauce.

Roll and dish the omelet, and surround it with a thread of
cream sauce.

498— OMELET A LA CLAMART

Stuff the omelet with two tablespoonfuls of fresh peas, bound
by means of butter and combined with a portion of the lettuce
used in cooking them, finely ciseled. Roll and dish the omelet,
make an opening lengthwise in the centre, and fill the inter-
space with a tablespoonful of fresh peas.

499— OMELET WITH CRUSTS

Combine with the beaten and seasoned eggs two tablespoon-
fuls of small crusts, cut into dice, fried in clarified butter, and
very hot.

Make the omelet very quickly.

500— OMELET WITH SPINACH

Stuff the omelet with two tablespoonfuls of spinach with
cream, and surround with a thread of cream sauce.

501— OMELET A LA FERMIERE

Add to the beaten and seasoned eggs one tablespoonful of
very lean, cooked ham cut into dice. Pour the eggs into the
omelet-pan, and cook them quickly, taking care to keep them
very soft. Let the outside harden slightly; tilt into the dish
after the manner of a pancake, and besprinkle the surface with
a pinch of chopped parsley.

502— OMELET AUX FINES HERBES

Add to the eggs one tablespoonful of parsley, chervil, chive,
and tarragon leaves, all to be finely chopped and almost equally
apportioned.

Make the omelet in the usual way.

503— OMELET WITH VEGETABLE MARROW FLOWERS

Add to the eggs one and one-half oz. of the calices of
freshly-plucked and young vegetable-marrow flowers; cisel and

1 88 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

stew them, and add thereto a pinch of chopped parsley. Sur-
round the omelet with a thread of tomato sauce.

N.B. — This omelet may be made with oil, as well as with
butter.

504— OMELET WITH CHICKEN'S LIVER

Stuff the omelet with two tablespoonfuls of chicken's liver,
which should be cut into dice or finely sliced, seasoned, quickly
sauted in butter, and cohered with half-glaze. Dish the omelet,
make an opening lengthwise in the centre, and place one table-
spoonful of chicken's liver, prepared as above, in the interspaces.
Besprinkle with chopped parsley, and surround the omelet with
a thread of half-glaze.

S05— OMELET WITH ARTICHOKE = BOTTOMS

Finely mince two small artichoke-bottoms (raw if possible),
season them, and slightly colour them in butter. Add the
beaten and seasoned eggs, and make the omelet in the usual
way.

506— OMELET WITH YOUNG SHOOTS OF HOPS

Stuff the omelet with two tablespoonfuls of young shoots
of hops, cohered with cream, and finish it in the usual way.
Open it slightly along the top, and garnish with a few young
shoots of hops put aside for the purpose.

The omelet may be surrounded with a thread of cream sauce,
but this is optional.

507— OMELET A LA LYONNAISE

Finely mince half an onion, and cook it with butter in an
omelet-pan, letting it brown slightly. Add the eggs, with
which a large pinch of chopped parsley has been mixed, and
make the omelet in the usual way.

508— OMELET MAXIM

Make the omelet in the usual way. Lay upon it alternate
rows of crayfish tails and slices of truffle. Surround the omelet
with a fine border of frogs' legs " sauted k la Meuni^re," i.e.,
seasoned raw, rolled in flour, and sauted in butter until quite
cooked and well gilded.

EGGS 189

509— OMELET WITH MORELS

Mince and toss in butter two oz. of very firm morels. Two
should be put aside, which, after having been cut in two, length-
wise, and sauted with the others, should be placed on a dish
when the omelet is about to be made. Having dished the latter,
place the four sauted and reserved pieces of morels upon it, and
surround it with a thread of half-glaze.

510— OMELET MOUSSELINE

Beat the yolks of three eggs in a bowl with a small pinch
of salt and a tablespoonful of very thick cream. Add thereto
the three whites, whisked to a stiff froth, and pour this pre-
paration into a wide omelet-pan containing one oz. of very hot
butter. Saute the omelet, tossing it very quickly, and taking
care to turn the outside edges of the preparation constantly
towards the centre; when the whole mass seems uniformly set,
roll the omelet up quickly, and dish it. This omelet should
be sent to the table immediately.

510a— OMELET WITH MOUSSERONS

Mince two oz. of very fresh mousserons ; toss them in butter
in the omelet-pan ; add thereto the eggs mixed with a pinch of
chopped parsley; make the omelet, dish it, and surround it with
a thread of half-glaze.

SI I— OMELET A LA NANTUA

Add to the omelet six little crayfishes' tails, each of which
must be cut into three, and the whole mixed with a little
Nantua sauce. Put two fine crayfishes' tails on the omelet,
making them touch at their thicker ends, and surround with
a thread of Nantua sauce.

512— OMELET PARMENTIER

Add a pinch of chopped parsley to the eggs, and, when
about to pour the latter into the omelet-pan, add two table-
spoonfuls of potato cut into dice, seasoned, sauted in butter,
and very hot. Make the omelet in the usual way.

513— OMELET A LA PAYS ANNE

Frizzle with butter, in the omelet-pan, two oz. of breast of
bacon cut into dice. Add to the eggs one tablespoonful of
finely-sliced potatoes sauted in butter, one-half tablespoonful of
ciseled sorrel stewed in butter, and a pinch of concussed chervil.

Pour the whole over the bacon-dice; cook the eggs quickly,

I90 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

keeping them soft; turn the omelet after the manner of a pan-
cake, and tilt it immediately on to a round dish.

514— OMELET WITH ASPARAGUS=TOPS

Add one and one-half tablespoonfuls of blanched asparagus-
tops, stewed in butter, to the omelet. Having dished the omelet,
open it along the middle, and lay a nice little faggot of
asparagus-tops in the interspace.

S15— OMELET A LA PROVEN9ALE

Rub the bottom of the omelet-pan lightly with a clove of
garlic; put two tablespoonfuls of oil into the utensil, and heat
it until it smokes.

Throw into the oil a fine, peeled, pressed, and pipped
tomato, cut into dice and besprinkled with a pinch of concussed
parsley. Cook it quickly, tossing it the while, and add it to
the beaten and seasoned eggs. Make the omelet in the usual
way.

N.B. — The nature of this preparation demands the use of
oil in treating the tomato, but, failing oil, clarified butter may
be used.

516— OMELET WITH KIDNEYS

Add to the omelet a tablespoonful of calf's or sheep's kidney,
cut into dice, seasoned with salt and pepper, sauted quickly in
butter, and cohered by means of half-glaze. Having dished the
omelet, divide it down the middle, lay some reserved kidney-
dice in the interspace, and surround with a thread of half-glaze.

517— OMELET A LA ROSSINI

Add to the beaten and seasoned eggs one dessertspoonful
of cooked foie gras and as much truffle, cut into small dice.
Having dished the omelet, place in the middle thereof a small
rectangular piece of heated foie gras, and two slices of truffle
on either side of the latter. Surround it with a thread of half-
glaze flavoured with truffle essence.

518— OMELET WITH TRUFFLES

Add to the omelet one tablespoonful of truffles, cut into dice.
Make the omelet, dish it, and lay a row of fine slices of truffles
upon it. Surround it with a thread of melted meat-glaze.

EGGS 191

519— HOT LAPWINGS' AND PLOVERS' EGGS

Note. — In the chapter on hors-d'oeuvres, where recipes were
given which deal with lapwings' eggs, I made a few remarks
relative to their freshness, and indicated the procedure for boil-
ing them soft and hard.

520— SCRAMBLED LAPWINGS' EGGS

Proceed as for ordinary scrambled eggs, all the recipes given
for the latter being perfectly applicable to lapwings' eggs. They
require, however, very great care in their preparation, and it
should be borne in mind that one ordinary hen's egg is equal
to about three lapwings' eggs.

521— LAPWINGS' EGGS A LA DANOISE

Poach the eggs as directed in the recipe dealing with the
process, and dish them up in tartlet-crusts garnished with a
pur^e of smoked salmon.

522— OMELET OF LAPWINGS' EGGS

Proceed as for other omelets, but one ordinary hen's egg is
generally added to every six lapwings' eggs in order to give
more body to the preparation. All the omelet recipes already
given may be applied to lapwings' eggs.

523— LAPWINGS' EGGS A LA ROYALE

Garnish' as many small tartlet moulds as there are eggs with
chicken-forcemeat. Poach, turn out the moulds, and hollow
out the centres of the tartlets in such wise as to be able to set
an egg upright in each.

Place a soft- or hard-boiled egg on each forcemeat tartlet,
coat the eggs with a light pur^e of mushrooms, besprinkle with
chopped truffles, and arrange in a circle on a dish.

524— LAPWINGS' EGGS AU TROUBADOUR

Select as many large morels as there are eggs. Remove the
stalks, and widen the openings of the morels ; season them, and
stew them in butter. Boil the lapwings' eggs soft.

Garnish each stewed morel with an egg; set them on little
tartlet-crusts garnished with a light, foie-gras pur^e, and
arrange them in a circle on a dish.

192 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

Cold Eggs

The preparation of cold eggs is not limited by classical
rules; it rests with the skill and artistic imagination of the
operator, and, since fancifulness and originality are always
closely allied to artistic imagination, it follows that the varieties
evolved may be infinite.

Indeed, so various and numerous are the recipes dealing with
this kind of egg-preparations that I must limit myself to a
selection only of the more customary ones, culled as far as
possible from my own repertory.

525— COLD EQQS ALEXANDRA

Take some cold, well-trimmed, poached eggs ; dry them and
cover them with a white chaud-froid sauce. Place a fine in-
dented slice of truffle in the centre of each, and sprinkle with a
cold, white, melted aspic jelly until they are thinly coated there-
with. Slip the point of a small knife round each egg with the
view of moving them more easily, and transfer them to oval
tartlet-crusts made from puff-paste trimmings, baked without
colouration.

Lay a border of caviare round the eggs; dish them in the
form of a crown, and put some chopped jelly in the centre.

526— COLD EGGS A L'ANDALOUSE

Cover some cold, well-dried, poached eggs with a tomato
pur^e combined with a full third of its volume of Soubise pur^e
and one-half pint of melted aspic jelly per pint of sauce. Cut
some pimentos, marinaded in oil, into very thin strips, and lay
these, after the manner of a lattice, upon each egg.

Now garnish as many oiled, oval tartlet-moulds as there
are eggs with tomato pur^e, thickened with jelly, and let the
garnish set on ice. Turn out the moulds, and put an egg upon
each of the tomato tartlets; arrange the latter in a circle on a
dish surrounded with a chain composed of linked rings of onion,
and garnish the centre with chopped, white jelly.

527— COLD EQQS ARGENTEUIL

Coat some well-dried, soft-boiled eggs, slightly cut at their
base to make them stand, with a white chaud-froid sauce com-
bined with a good third of its volume of asparagus-tops pur^e.
Sprinkle repeatedly with cold, melted, white jelly, until a glossy
coating is obtained.

ECGS 19 j

Garnish the centra 6f a dish with a salad of asparagus-tops ;
surround this with fine slices of cold potato, cooked in water and
cut up with an even fancy-cutter, one inch in diameter, and
arrange the eggs all round.

528— COLD EGGS CAPUCINE

Carefully dry some cold, poached eggs, and half-coat them
lengthwise with a white chaud-froid sauce ; complete the coating
on the other side with a smooth pur^e of truffles, thickened with
jelly. Leave these two coats to set, placing the eggs in the
cool or on ice for that purpose.

Garnish the centre of a round dish with a small pyramid of
cold, truffled Brandade of morue, and set the eggs round the
latter.

529— COLD EQQS CARfeME

Cook the eggs on the dish, leave them to cool, and trim
them with an even fancy-cutter, oval in shape. Place each
egg on an oval tartlet-crust, garnished with dice of cooked
salmon, cohered with mayonnaise.

Surround with a thread of caviare, and lay a thin slice of
very black truffle on each egg.

530— COLD EGGS COLBERT

Garnish some small, oval moulds in Chartreuse fashion, i.e.,
like a draught-board. Put a small, cold, poached egg into each
mould, fill up with melted, white jelly, and leave to set. Garnish
the centre of a dish with a heaped vegetable salad ; arrange the
eggs taken from their moulds around this, and surround with
a little chopped jelly.

531— COLD EGGS COLINETTE

Let a thin coat of white jelly set upon the bottom and sides
of some small, oval moulds. Garnish the latter with some small
dice, consisting of white of &gg and truffles, placing them so
as to simulate a draught-board ; now insert a very small, cold,
poached egg into each mould, and fill up with a melted jelly.

Garnish the centre of a dish with a " Rachel " salad, en-
circled by a ring of sliced, cold potatoes, cooked in water, and
place the eggs, removed from their moulds, all round. Border
the dish with indented crescents of white jelly.

532— COLD EGGS WITH TARRAGON

Mould these in baba-moulds, or in porcelain cocottes ; some
times they may simply be dished up on small tartlet-crusts.

O

194 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

The preparation consists of poached or soft-boiled eggs,
garnished with blanched tarragon leaves, or coated or moulded
with a very fine tarragon jelly.

533— COLD EGGS, FROU-FROU

Select soine very small poached eggs of equal size, cover
them with a white chaud-froid sauce combined with about a
third of its volume of a pur^e of hard-boiled egg-yolks.

Garnish the top of each egg with an indented ring of very
black truffle, and surround the base of the eggs with a narrow
ribbon composed of chopped truffles. Glaze with jelly, and
leave to set on ice.

Prepare a salad of green vegetables (peas, French beans cut
into dice or lozenges, asparagus-tops) ; thicken it with a very
little mayonnaise mixed with melted jelly. Pour this prepara-
tion into an oiled mould, and leave it to set. For dishing,
turn out the salad in the middle of a dish ; surround the base
with a line of chopped jelly; encircle the whole with the eggs,
letting them rest on the jelly, and garnish the dish with a
border of dice cut in very clear, white jelly.

534— COLD EGGS MOSCOVITE

Slightly level both ends of some shelled, hard-boiled eggs.
Surround the tops and the bases with three little anchovy fillets,
and place a bit of truffle just half-way along each egg. Eggs
prepared in this way resemble little barrels, whereof the anchovy
fillets imitate the iron hoops, and the bits of truffle the bungs.
By means of a tubular cutter empty the eggs with care ; garnish
them with caviare, and shape the latter to a point, outside the
edges of the egg.

Lay each egg in an artichoke-bottom, cooked white, and gar-
nished with finely-chopped jelly, and arrange them in a circle on
a dish with chopped jelly in the centre.

535— COLD EGGS A LA NANTUA

Prepare some hard-boiled eggs to resemble little barrels,
after the manner described above. For every six eggs keep
ready and cold eighteen crayfish cooked k la Bordelaise. Shell
the tails, put two aside for each egg, and cut the remainder into
dice; finely pound the bodies and remains, add thereto three

EGGS 195

tablespoonfuls of thick cream, and rub through tammy. Add
to this cullis one tablespoonful of thick mayonnaise.

Bind the crayfish tails, cut into dice, with a few tablespoon-
fuls of this sauce, and garnish the eggs, emptied by the method
indicated above, with the preparation of dice, making it stand
out of the eggs in the shape of a small dome. Garnish each
dome with a rosette composed of four halved crayfish tails and
four truffle lozenges.

Glaze well with jelly; set the eggs upon artichoke-bottoms
garnished with a mayonnaise with crayfish cullis, and arrange
in a circle on a dish.

536— COLD EQQS POLIQNAC

Prepare some eggs a la Polignac, as explained under
" Moulded Eggs," and leave them to cool. Select some moulds
a little larger than those used in the cooking of the eggs ; pour
into each half a tablespoonful of melted, white jelly, and leave
to set. Then put an egg into each mould, and fill up the space
around the eggs with melted, white jelly.

Leave to set, turn out the moulds, arrange the mouldings
on a dish, and surround them with dice of faintly coloured
jelly.

537— COLD EQQS A LA REINE

Prepare some soft-boiled eggs, and leave them to cool. Take
as many cottage brioches as there are eggs; trim them to the
level of the fluting, and remove the crumb from the inside, so
as to form little croustades of them. Garnish the bottom and
the sides of these croustades with a fine mince of white chicken-
meat, thickened with mayonnaise, and season moderately with
cayenne. Place a shelled, soft-boiled egg in each croustade ;
coat thinly with mayonnaise slightly thickened by means of a
jelly; lay a fine piece of truffle on each egg, and, when the
sauce has set, glaze with jelly, using a fine brush for the
purpose.

Dish up on a napkin.

538— COLD EQQS, RUBENS

Season some cooked young shoots of hops with salt and
freshly-ground pepper; add thereto some chopped parsley and
chervil, and a pur^e of plainly-cooked tomatoes combined with
just sufficient jelly to ensure the cohesion of the hops. Mould
in oiled tartlet-moulds.

o 2

196 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

Coat some well-dried, cold, poached eggs with white chaud-
froid sauce; garnish with pieces of tarragon leaves, and glaze
with jelly.

Turn out the tartlet-moulds; set an egg on each of the
mouldings, and arrange them in a circle on a dish, placing
between each egg a piece of very clear jelly, cut to the shape
of a cock's comb.

Garnish the centre of the dish with chopped jelly.

CHAPTER XIII

SOUPS

Soups are divided into two leading classes, viz. : —

1. Clear soups, which include plain and garnished con-
sommes.

2. Thick soups, which comprise the Purees, Velout^s, and
Creams.

A third class, which is independent of either of the above,
inasmuch as it forms part of plain, household cookery, em-
braces vegetable soups and Garbures or gratincd soups. But
in important dinners — by this I mean rich dinners — only the
first two classes are recognised.

When a menu contains two soups, one must be clear and
the other thick. If only one is to be served, it may be either
clear or thick, in which case the two kinds are represented
alternately at different meals.

In Part I. of this work I indicated the general mode of pro-
cedure for consommes and thick soups; I explained how the
latter might be converted from plain purees into veloutds or
creams, or from velout^s into creams ; and all that now remains
is to reveal the recipes proper to each of those soups.

Remarks.— In the course of the recipes for consommes, given
hereafter, the use of Royales (Nos. 206 to 213) and of Quenelles,
variously prepared (Nos. 193 to 195), will often be enjoined.
For the preparation of these garnishes, therefore, the reader will
have to refer to the numbers indicated.

The quantities for the clear soups that follow are all calcu-
lated to be sufficient for a standard number of six people, and
the quantity of Royales is always given in so many dariole-
moulds, which contain about one-eighth pint, or baba-moidds,
which hold about one-fifth pint.

Of course, it will be understood that the poaching need not
necessarily have been effected in these moulds, for very small
"Charlotte" moulds would do quite as well. But I had re-
course to the particular utensils mentioned above, in order that

198 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

there might be no sort of doubt as to the exact quantity of royale
it would be necessary to prepare for any one of the soups.

Clear Soups and Garnished Consommes

539— CONSOMM6 ALEXANDRA

Have a quart of excellent chicken consomm6 ready; add
thereto, in order to thicken it slightly, three tablespoonfuls of
poached tapioca, strained through muslin, and very clear.

Put the folloM?ing garnish into the soup-tureen : One table-
spoonful of white chicken-meat cut in fine julienne-fashion, one
tablespoonful of small chicken quenelles, grooved and long in
shape, and one tablespoonful of lettuce chiffonade.

Pour the boiling consomme upon this garnish, and send to
the table immediately.

540— C0NS0MMI6 AMBASSADRICE

Have one quart of chicken consomm^ ready ; also there
should have been prepared beforehand, with the view of using
them quite cold, three different kinds of royales, consisting
respectively of truffle pur^e, tomato purde, and pur^e of peas,
each of which should have been poached in a dariole-mould.

Cut these royales up into regular dice, and put them in
the soup-tureen with one tablespoonful of chicken fillet and
an equal quantity of small, freshly-cooked mushrooms, finely
minced. Pour the boiling consommd over these garnishes, and
serve at once.

541— CONSOMM^ ANDALOUSE

Prepare a baba-mould of royale made from tomato pur^e.
When quite cold, cut it into dice, and put these in the soup-
tureen with one small tablespoonful of cooked ham cut in
julienne-fashion, one tablespoonful of boiled rice, with every
grain distinct and separate, and two tablespoonfuls of threaded
eggs (No. 217).

When about to serve, pour one quart of very clear chicken
consomm^ over the garnish.

543— CONSOMME D'ARENBERG

With a small spoon-cutter, pick out a spoonful of carrot
pellets and the same quantity of turnip pellets. Cook these
vegetables by boiling them in consomm^, taking care that the
latter be reduced to a glaze when the vegetables are cooked.

SOUPS 199

With the same spoon take the same quantity as above of very
black truffle ; also prepare a dariole-mould of royale made from
asparagus heads, and a dozen small chicken-forcemeat quen-
elles, which should be moulded to the shape of large pearls.

Poach the quenelles, cut the royales up into slices, which
must be stamped with an indented fancy-cutter, and put the
whole into the soup-tureen with the carrots, turnips, and truffle
pellets, and one tablespoonful of very green peas.

Pour a quart of chicken consomm^ over the garnish, and
send to the table at once.

543— CONSOMME A LA BOHJ&MIENNE

Prepare three dariole-moulds of foie-gras pur^e, and twelve
■profiterolles (No. 218) of the size of hazel-nuts, the latter being
made very crisp.

When the royale is cold, cut it into little, regular squares,
and put these into the soup-tureen.

When about to serve, pour over this garnish a quart of
chicken consomm^, thickened by means of three tablespoonfuls
of tapioca, poached and strained through linen.

Send the profiterolles to the table separately, and very hot.

544— CONSOMMlfe BOiELDIEU

Prepare eighteen chicken-forcemeat quenelles, moulded by
means of a small teaspoon ; some should be stuffed with foie-
gras pur^e, moistened with a little veIout6 ; others with chicken
pur^e; and yet others with truffle pur^e — in short, six of each
kind.

Place these, one by one, on a buttered saut6-pan ; poach
them, drain them, and put them in the soup-tureen with a
tablespoonful of white chicken-meat, cut into dice.

When about to serve, pour one quart of chicken consomm^,
thickened as above with tapioca, over the garnish.

545— CONSOMME BOUQUETlfeRE

Prepare a garnish of carrots and turnips, cut with the
tubular cutter or with the spoon ; French beans cut into lozenges,
asparagus-heads, and green peas, all of which vegetables should
be fresh and young. Cook each vegetable according to its
nature, and put the whole into the soup-tureen.

When about to serve, pour over the garnish one quart of
chicken consomm6 thickened with two tablespoonfuls of
tapioca, poached and strained through fine linen.

200 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

546— CONSOMMI6 BOURDALOUE

Prepare a dariole-mould of each of the four following
royales : —

1. Of a pur^e of haricot-beans with a slight addition of
tomato.

2. Of a chicken pur^e moistened with velout6.

3. Of a puree of asparagus-tops combined with a few cooked
spinach leaves, to deepen the colour.

4. Of a carrot pur^e (Pur^e Crecy).

Having poached and cooled the royales, cut them as
follows : —

(i) Into dice, (2) into lozenges, (3) into little leaves, and
(4) into stars.

Place them all in the ^oup-tureen, and, when about to
serve, pour one quart of boiling and very clear chicken con-
somme over them.

547— POTAQE BORTSCH

Cut in julienne-fashion the heads of two leeks, one carrot,
half of an onion, four oz. of the white of cabbage leaves, half
a root of parsley, the white part of a stick of celery, and four oz.
of beetroot ; set the whole to stew gently in butter.

Moisten with one quart of white consommd and two or three
tablespoonfuls of the juice of grated beetroot; add a small
bunch of fennel and sweet marjoram, two lbs. of moderately
fat breast of beef, and the half of a semi-roasted duck ; set to
cook gently for four hours.

When about to serve, cut the breast of beef into large dice,
and cut the duck into small slices; finish the soup with one-
quarter pint of beetroot juice, extracted from grated beetroot
pressed in linen, and a little blanched and chopped fennel and
parsley. Put the beef dice and sliced duck into the soup, with
twelve grilled and despumated chipolatas.

Serve, separately, a sauceboat of sour cream.

N.B. — The chipolatas may be replaced by very small patties
with duck forcemeat, which should be served separately.

548— CONSOMME BRUNOISE

Cut into small dice the red part only of two small carrots,
one small turnip, the heads of two leeks, a small stick of celery,
and the third of an onion of medium size.

Season the vegetables moderately with salt and a pinch of
sugar, and stew them in butter. Moisten with one-half pint

SOUPS 20 1

of consomm6, and complete the cooking of the Brunoise gently.
Five minutes before serving, finish with one quart of boiling,
ordinary consomm^, a moderate tablespoonful of peas, and the
same quantity of French beans, cut into dice and kept very
green.

Pour into the soup-tureen, and add a pinch of fine chervil
pluches.

549— CONSOMME CARMEN

Prepare one quart of consomm^, to which add, while clarify-
ing, one-quarter pint of raw tomato pur^e, in order to give it
a faint, pink tinge.

Also peel and press a small and rather firm tomato ; cut into
dice, and poach the latter in some of the consomm^ ; put them
in the soup-tureen with a small tablespoonful of mild capsicum,
cut in fine julienne-fashion, and one tablespoonful of plain-
boiled rice.

When about to serve, pour the boiling consomm^ over the
garnish, and add a small pinch of chervil pluches.

550— CONSOMME CASTELLANE

Prepare (i) one quart of game consomm6, flavoured with a
fumct of woodcock; (2) two baba-moulds of royale, two-thirds
of which consists of a pur^e of woodcock and one-third of
lentils, with half the yolk of a hard-boiled egg, chopped and
thickened with the usual leason.

Cut this royale into slices, about the size of a florin, one-
half inch thick. Put these into the soup-tureen, together with
one tablespoonful of a julienne of roast woodcock fillets, and
pour thereon the boiling game consomm^.

551— CONSOMME CELESTINE

Prepare one quart of chicken consomme, and add thereto
three small tablespoonfuls of poached tapioca, strained through
fine linen.

For the garnish make three pannequets (No. 2476) without
sugar, and spread over each a thin coating of chicken force-
meat with cream. Place one on top of the other, sprinkle the
layer of forcemeat on the uppermost one with finely-chopped,
very black truffles, and place in the front of the oven for a few
minutes, in order to poach the forcemeat.

Stamp the panncqtiets out with an even fancy-cutter about
one inch in diameter. Put the pieces into a soup-tureen, and,
\yhgn about to serve, pour in the boiling consornfp<J,

202 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

552— CONSOMMl^ CHARTREUSE

Prepare (i) eighteen small ravioles (No. 2296) — six from
spinach purde, six from foie-gras purde, and the remaining six
from chopped mushrooms; (2) two small tablespoonfuls of
tomato dice. Ten minutes before serving, poach the ravioles
in boiling, salted water, and the tomato dice in some of the
consomm^.

Put the ravioles and the tomato dice (well drained) into the
soup-tureen, and pour over them one quart of consomm^ with
a moderate addition of tapioca. Add a pinch of chervil pluches.

553— C0NS0MM6 AUX CHEVEUX D'ANGE

About two minutes before serving, plunge three oz. of very
fine vermicelli, known as Angel's Hair (Cheveux d'Ange) into
one quart of excellent, boiling consomm^.

An instant only is needed to poach the vermicelli, and the
latter does not require to be blanched.

This soup, like those containing pastes, should be accom-
panied by freshly-grated Parmesan cheese.

554— CONSOMME COLBERT

Have ready one quart of excellent Printanier chicken con-
somm6 (No. 601). Also poach six small eggs in slightly salted
and acidulated water. The eggs should be as small and as
fresh as possible, both of which conditions are absolutely neces-
sary for a proper poaching (see poached eggs. No. 411). Set
these eggs in a small timbale with a little consomm^, and send
them to the table with the Printanier. Having poured the
latter into the plates, put one of the eggs into each of these.

555_CONSOMME COLOMBINE

Prepare a good tablespoonful of carrot pearls, and as many
turnip pearls, keeping the latter very white. Cook them in
the customary way, and put them in the soup-tureen with one
tablespoonful of very green peas, one tablespoonful of a julienne
of roast-pigeon fillets, and six poached pigeons' eggs, which
latter should be sent to the table in a timbale at the same time
as the consomm^.

Pour over the other garnish one quart of very clear, boiling,
chicken consomm6, and serve immediately.

This soup can only appear on summer and spring menus,
when the pigeons' eggs are in season.

SOUPS 203

556— croOte au pot

Prepare a freshly-cooked vegetable garnish for a stock-
pot : — Carrots and turnips cut into small sticks and trimmed;
a few heads of leeks, and cabbage, parboiled, minced, and
cooked in very fat oonsomm^.

Put these vegetables in a somewhat greasy broth for ten
minutes.

Also prepare seven or eight crusts of French soup " flutes " ;
besprinkle them with stock grease, and dry them in the oven.
Put the vegetable garnish into the soup-tureen ; pour thereon
one quart of consomm^ of the Petite Marmite (No. 589), and
add to the dried crusts.

557— CONSOMM^ CYRANO

Prepare (i) one quart of consomm^ with a fumet of duck;
(2) twelve small quenelles of duck forcemeat, which should be
made flat and oval. Having poached the quenelles, drain
them, and set them in a small, shallow earthen pan or timbale ;
sprinkle with a little grated Parmesan cheese and a few drops
of chicken glaze, and set to glaze in the oven.

The quenelles are served separately in the pan in which
they have been glazed, and the consomm^ is sent to the table
in a soup-tureen.

558— CONSOMMjg DEMIDOFF

With the small spoon-cutter, pick out a good tablespoonful
of carrot, and the same quantity of turnip pearls. Cook these
vegetables in the customary way, and put them in the soup-
tureen with one tablespoonful of truffle pearls, the same quan-
tity of peas, and small, poached, chicken-forcemeat quenelles
with herbs. Pour one quart of boiling chicken consomm^ over
this garnish, and add a pinch of chervil pluches.

559— CONSOMME DESLIQNAC

Prepare (i) two small, stuffed lettuces, rolled into sausage
form and poached; (2) two baba-moulds of royale with cream.
Cut the royale into small, regular dice; trim the lettuce, and
cut it into slices; put this garnish into the soup-tureen, and
pour thereon one quart of boiling chicken consomm^, thick-
ened with three tablespoonfuls of poached tapioca, strained
through linen. Add a pinch of chervil pluches.

204 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

560— CONSOMMjg AUX DIABLOTINS

Cut a French soup " flute " into twelve slices one-quarter
inch thick. Reduce about one-quarter pint of Bechamel to a
thick consistence; add thereto, away from the fire, two heaped
tablespoonfuls of grated Gruy^re cheese, and season with a little
cayenne.

Garnish the slices of soup " flute " with this preparation,
arranged in the form of a dome, upon a tray, and set it to
glaze a few minutes before serving.

Pour one quart of chicken consomm^ into the soup-tureen,
and add the diablotins.

561— CONSOMME DIPLOMATE

Roll into small sausage-form three oz. of chicken forcemeat,
finished with crayfish butter. Poach the sausages, cut them
into thin roundels, and put them into the soup-tureen with one
dessertspoonful of very black truffle, cut in julienne-fashion.

Pour over this garnish one quart of boiling chicken con-
somme, thickened with two tablespoonfuls of poached tapioca,
strained through linen.

562— CONSOMME DIVETTE

Prepare two baba-inoulds of royale made from crayfish
velout^, eighteen small quenelles of smelt forcemeat, moulded
to the shape of pearls, and one tablespoonful of small pearls
of very black truffle.

Cut the royale into oval slices, and put these into the soup
with the poached quenelles and the truffle pearls.

Pour one quart of very clear, boiling consommd over the
garnish.

563— CONSOMME DORIA

Prepare the following garnish : — Thirty pellets of cucumber
in the shape of large pearls ; eighteen small quenelles of chicken
forcemeat, long in shape and grooved; six little pellets, about
the size of a large pea, of pate a choux, combined with grated
cheese, rolled by hand; and one and one-half tablespoonfuls of
Japanese pearls, poached in some of the consomm^.

Put the cucumber pellets, cooked in consomme, into the
soup-tureen ; add the poached quenelles and the Japanese pearls.

Four minutes before serving, plunge the pellets of fate a
chotix into hot fat, keeping them crisp.

SOUPS

16^

When about to serve, pour over the garnish one quart of
boiling chicken consommd; complete with a pinch of chervil
pluches, and serve the little, fried pellets separately.

S64--CONSOMME DOUGLAS

With an even cutter, the size of a penny, cut up some braised
and cooled sweetbread into twelve roundels one-third inch thick ;
with the same cutter cut out twelve more roundels from some
cooked artichoke-bottoms, and put the whole into the soup-
tureen with two tablespoonfuls of very green asparagus-heads.

When about to serve, pour one quart of boiling, highly
seasoned, ordinary consomm^ upon the garnish.

565— C0NS0MM6 A L'ECOSSAISE

Prepare a special mutton broth, and, at the same time, cook
a fine piece of breast of mutton for the garnish.

Per two quarts of broth, put into the soup-tureen four
tablespoonfuls of pearl-barley, cooked very gently beforehand;
two tablespoonfuls of French beans, cut into lozenges, and the
breast of mutton cut into regular dice of one-half inch side, in
the proportion of one tablespoonful for each person.

Pour the boiling mutton broth over this garnish, after
having removed all the grease and strained it through linen.

566— CONSOMME FAVORITE

With a spoon-cutter, pick from out some violet potatoes
eighteen pellets the size of small hazel-nuts, and cook them in
salted water in good time for them to be ready for the dishing
up of the soup. Put them in the soup-tureen with two table-
spoonfuls of a julienne of artichoke-bottoms and the same
quantity of cooked mushrooms, also cut in julienne-fashion.

Pour over the garnish one quart of chicken consomm^,
thickened with three tablespoonfuls of poached tapioca strained
through linen. Add a pinch of chervil pluches.

566a— CONSOMME A LA FERMIERE

Mince, somewhat finely, one small carrot, one small turnip,
the heads of two leeks, and the half of an onion . Slightly stew
these vegetables in one and one-half oz. of butter; moisten with
one and one-half pints of white consomm^; add two oz. of
parboiled cabbage, cut roughly into a julienne, and complete

2o6 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

the cooking gently, taking care to remove all grease, with the
view of obtaining a very clear consomm^.

Pour into the soup-tureen, and add a few thin slices of French
soup " flute," slightly dried.

567— CONSOMME FLORENTINE

With fine chicken forcemeat make twenty-four small quen-
elles on a buttered tray, their shape being that of small Mecca
loaves. To the forcemeat of six of these quenelles add some
very finely chopped tongue; add white chicken-meat to that
of another six; and to that of the remaining twelve add some
very reduced spinach pur^e. The quenelles with spinach should
number twice those with the other two ingredients, in order
that the preparation may be in keeping with its designation
" ^ la Florentine."

Poach the quenelles; put them in the soup-tureen with two
tablespoonfuls of very green, cooked peas.

When about to serve, pour one quart of very clear, boiling
chicken consomm^ over this garnish, and add a pinch of chervil
pluches.

568— CONSOMME QAULOISE

Prepare two dariole-moulds of ham royale, and poach the
latter in a small, well-buttered Charlotte mould. When quite
cold, cut it into large lozenges, and put these into the soup-
tureen with six small cocks' combs and six small cocks' kidneys
(these latter as small as possible).

When about to serve, pour over this garnish one quart of
chicken consomm^, thickened slightly with two tablespoonfuls
of poached tapioca, strained through linen.

569— C0NS0MM6 QEORQE SAND

Have ready one quart of consomm^ flavoured with very clear
fish fumet. Also prepare twelve small quenelles of whiting
forcemeat, finished with crayfish butter; stew twelve morels,
which should be left whole if very small, and cut into two if
they are of medium size; twelve small slices of poached carps'
milt, and twelve little roundels of French soup "flutes."

Put the poached quenelles and the stewed morels into the
soup-tureen ; pour therein the boiling, fish consomm^, and
send the slices of carps' milt set on the roundels of French
soup " flute " separately to the table.

SOUPS 207

570— CONSOMM^ GERMAINE

Prepare two dariole-moulds of royale made from a pur6e
of very green peas, combined with a tablespoonful of Mire-
poix stewed in butter, and a strong pinch of small, chervil
pluches; eighteen small quenelles of chicken forcemeat with
cream, moulded to the form of pastils.

When the royale is cold, cut it into regular roundels, and
put these into the soup-tureen with the poached quenelles.

When about to serve, pour one quart of boiling chicken
consomm^ over the garnish.

571— C0NS0MM6 QIRONDINE

Prepare (i) one quart of highly-seasoned beef consomm^;
(2) two baha-moulds of ordinary royale made with whole eggs
and combined with two tablespoonfuls of cooked and finely-
chopped lean ham ; (3) three tablespoonfuls of a julienne of
carrots (the red part only) stewed in butter, the cooking of
which should be completed in the consomm6.

Put the royale, cut into large, regular lozenges, and the
julienne of carrots into the soup-tureen, and pour in the boiling
beef consomm^.

572— CONSOMM^ QRIMALDI

Have ready one quart of excellent ordinary consomm6, to
which have been added, while clarifying, four tablespoonfuls
of raw tomato pur^e, strained through fine linen.

Also prepare two dariole-moulds of ordinary royale, and
three tablespoonfuls of a fine julienne of the white of celery,
stewed in butter, finally cooked in the consomm^, and with all
grease removed.

Put the royale, cut into large dice, and the julienne of
celery into the soup-tureen, and pour thereon the boiling con-
somm^ with tomatoes.

573— CONSOMM^ IMP^RIALE

Prepare three dariole-moulds of mousseline forcemeat of
fowl (No. 195), and put it to poach in a small Charlotte mould.

When quite cold, cut it, by means of a cutter, into roundels
the size of a penny, and put these in the soup-tureen with six
small blanched cocks' combs and three sliced cocks' kidneys,
and two tablespoonfuls of very green peas.

Pour over this garnish one quart of chicken consomm^,
thickened with three tablespoonfuls of poached tapioca strained
through linen.

io8 GUIDE to MODERN COOKERY

574— CONSOMME A L'INDIENNE

Have ready one quart of ordinary consomm^ seasoned with
curry. Also prepare three baba-moulds of royale made from
cocoanut milk, and, when quite cold, cut into small dice.

Put this royale into the soup-tureen; pour on it the boil-
ing consomm^ with curry, and send to the table, separately,
four tablespoon fuls of Rice k I'lndienne (No. 2254).

575— CONSOMM6 A L'INFANTE

With some pate a choux (No. 2374) prepare eighteen fro-
fiterolles of the size of hazel-nuts. Cook them, taking care to
keep them very crisp, and stuff them when cold with pur^e
de foie gras moistened with velout^.

Put two tablespoonfuls of a fine julienne of mild capsicum
into the soup-tureen, and pour thereon one quart of boiling
chicken consomm^, moderately thickened with poached tapioca
strained through linen.

Serve the proflteroUes of foie gras separately, after having
heated them in the front of the oven.

N.B. — The garnish of Consomm^ k I'lnfante may consist
only of the profiterolles, and the julienne of capsicum may be
suppressed ; this is a matter of taste.

576— CONSOMME JACQUELINE

With a small spoon-cutter, pick from out some carrots
twenty-four little oval pellets, which should be cooked in the
consomme. Prepare two baba-moulds of royale with cream.

Put into the soup-tureen the pellets of carrots and the royale
cut to the shape of pastils, one tablespoonful of peas, the same
quantity of very green asparagus-heads, and one tablespoonful
of rice.

When about to serve, pour one quart of boiling chicken
consomme over this garnish.

576a— CONSOMME JULIENNE

Cut into fillets, two inches in length, the red part only of
two medium-sized carrots, one medium-sized turnip, one leek,
half a stick of celery, some cabbage leaves, and half an onion.
Season these vegetables with a pinch of salt and as much castor
sugar; stew them in one oz. of butter; moisten with one and
one-half pints of white consomm^^ and then add two oz. of small
parboiled cabbages, cut after the manner of the other vegetables.

Finish the cooking gently, removing the grease the while,

SOUPS 209

and complete with one small tablespoonful of very green, cooked
peas, one tablespoonful of sorrel and lettuce chiffonade, and one
pinch of chervil pluches.

577— C0NS0MM1& LORETTE

Have ready one quart of chicken consomm^. Also prepare
two tablespoonfuls of a fine julienne of celery stewed in butter
and cooked in the consomm^; twelve small " pommes k la
lorette " (No. 2226), the size of hazel-nuts, and shaped like small
crescents. These potatoes should be fried in hot fat four minutes
before serving.

Put into the soup-tureen the julienne of celery, twelve small,
freshly-poached cocks' kidneys, and one tablespoonful of a
julienne of pimentos; pour the boiling consomm^ over this
garnish ; add a pinch of chervil pluches, and send the lorette
potatoes to the table separately.

578— C0NS0MM6 MACDONALD

Prepare (i) one quart of highly seasoned beef consomm^;
(2) two dariole-moulds of brain-pur^e royale; (3) two table-
spoonfuls of cucumbers cut into small dice and cooked in con-
somm6 until the latter is reduced to a glaze; (4) five little
ravioles garnished with chicken forcemeat combined with a
third of its volume of spinach. Put these ravioles to poach in
salted boiling water twelve minutes before serving.

Put into the soup-tureen the royale of brains cut into
roundels one-third inch thick, the dice of cucumber, and the
ravioles poached and well drained.

Pour the boiling beef consomm^ over this garnish just before
serving.

579— CONSOMME MARGUERITE

Take two tablespoonfuls of chicken forcemeat with cream,
and roll it into sausage-form on the floured mixing-board. Put
the sausage to poach. Rub the yolk of an egg through a fine
sieve, and cohere it with half a teaspoonful of raw forcemeat.

Having poached and cooled the chicken sausage, cut it into
thin roundels, and stamp each roundel with a fancy-cutter to
the shape of a marguerite. Arrange the marguerites on a dish,
and lay in the middle of each a bit of the egg and forcemeat, in
imitation of the flower-centre.

Put these marguerites into the soup-tureen with one table-
spoonful of small, green asparagus cut into lengths of one inch.
When about to serve, pour one quart of very clear, boiling
chicken consomm^ over this garnish.

P

2 to GUTDE TO MODERN COOKERY

580— CONSOMME MARQUISE

Prepare one quart of good, ordinary consomm^, to which
three sticks of celery have been added, while clarifying, in
order that the taste of the celery may be very decided.

Make thirty small quenelles of chicken forcemeat combined
with finely-chopped filberts, giving them the shape of pastils.

Poach these quenelles ten minutes before serving. Also
poach in court-bouillon two calf's piths, and cut them into thin
roundels.

Put the poached quenelles and the roundels of calf's piths
into the soup-tureen, and pour thereon the boiling consommt^.

581— C0NS0MM6 MERC^DfiS

Prepare one quart of chicken consomm^ with pimentos, com-
bined, at the last minute, away from the fire, with one-half pint
of sherry.

Put into the soup-tureen two tablespoonfuls of capsicum,
cut in fine julienne-fashion and short, and some small, freshly-
cooked cocks' combs.

When about to serve, pour the consomm6 over this garnish.

582— CONSOMM6 MESSALINE

Prepare one quart of chicken consomm^, and add thereto,
while clarifying, one-quarter pint of tomato essence, obtained by
reducing the moisture contained by the tomato to a syrup.

Put into the soup-tureen twelve small, freshly-poached cocks'
ccmbs, two tablespoonfuls of Spanish capsicum cut into a
julienne and poached in the consomm^ if fresh (this should have
been previously grilled, with the view of removing the skins),
and two tablespoonfuls of poached rice, every grain of which
should be distinct.

Pour the boiling consomm^ over this garnish.

583— CONSOMME METTERNICH

Prepare one quart of game consomm^ with pheasant fumet.
Also poach two dariole-moulds of royale, made from a purde
of artichokes combined with some tablespoonfuls of the reduced
game Espagnole. Cut this royale into dice; put these into a
soup-tureen with one tablespoonful of a julienne of pheasant
fillets, and pour thereon the boiling consomm^.

584— CONSOMME A LA MILANAISE

Cook in slightly salted boiling water two oz. of moderately
thick macaroni. As soon as it is cooked, drain it, lay it on a
piece of linen, and cut it into small rings. Also prepare one-

SOUPS III

quarter pint of Bechamel, thickened with the yolk of one egg
combined with one oz. of grated cheese, and l^eep it very dense.

Mix the rings of macaroni with this sauce ; spread the whole
on a dish, and leave to cool. Now divide up the preparation
into portions the size of walnuts ; roll these into balls, and then
flatten them out to form quoits about the size of shillings. Treat
these quoits with an anglaise, and very fine bread-crumbs, and
plunge into hot fat four minutes before serving. Drain them
when they have acquired a fine golden colour.

Pour one quart of boiling chicken consomme into the soup-
tureen, and send to the table, separately, (i) the fried macaroni
quoits; (2) one and one-half oz. of Gruy^re and Parmesan
cheese, in equal quantities, grated and mixed.

585— CONSOMMjfe MIREILLE

Add one tablespoonful of very concentrated tomato pur^e to
three oz. of chicken forcemeat; roll this preparation into the
form of a somewhat large sausage, and poach it. When cold,
cut it into roundels, one-quarter inch thick, and stamp each
roundel with an oval fancy-cutter in the shape of a medallion.
Put these medallions in the soup-tureen with two tablespoonfuls
of saffroned pilaff rice (No. 2255), and, when about to serve,
pour thereon one quart of very clear, boiling chicken consomm^.

586— CONSOMME MIRETTE

Make eighteen quenelles of chicken forcemeat in the shape
of large pearls, and poach them. Prepare two tablespoonfuls
of lettuce chiffonade (the heart of one lettuce cut julienne-fashion
and stewed in butter) ; make eighteen paillettes with Parmesan
(No. 2322), and put them in a very hot oven eight or ten minutes
before serving.

Put the poached quenelles and the lettuce chiffonade into
the soup-tureen ; pour thereon one quart of boiling consomm^
of the Petite Marmite, and one pinch of chervil pluches.

Send the paillettes au Parmesan to the table separately, and
have them very hot.

587— C0NS0MM6 MONTE CARLO

Make and poach thirty small quenelles of chicken force-
meat ; cisel and stew in butter the heart of one lettuce ; prepare
twelve little profiterolles of pate a choux, the size of hazel-nuts,
and cook them, taking care to keep them crisp.

Put the quenelles and the lettuce chiffonade into the soup-
tureen ; pour thereon one quart of very clear, boiling, chicken
consomm^, and add a pinch of chervil pluches.

Serve the profiterolles separately and very hot.

212 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

588— CONSOMME MONTMORENCY

Have ready one quart of chicken consommt^ thickened with
three tablespoonfuls of poached tapioca, strained through linen.

Prepare eighteen small grooved quenelles of chicken force-
meat. Poach, drain, and put them into the soup-tureen with
two tablespoonfuls of very green asparagus-heads and two
tablespoonfuls of poached rice, every grain of which should be
distinct and separate.

589— CONSOMME A LA MOSCOVITE

Prepare one quart of sterlet or sturgeon consomm^, and add
thereto some cucumber essence, obtained by pounding a cored
and peeled cucumber, and straining the resulting pur^e through
linen.

Put into the soup-tureen two tablespoonfuls of a julienne of
salted mushrooms, one oz. of soaked vesiga cut into dice and
cooked in broth, and pour thereon the boiling consomm^.

N.B. — Vesiga or the spine-marrow of the sturgeon ought to
be soaked in cold water for a few hours in order to soften and
swell it, after which it should be cut into dice and cooked in
broth. For every four tablespoonfuls of cooked vesiga, one oz.
of dry vesiga should be allowed.

590— CONSOMM6 NESSELRODE

Have ready one quart of game consomm6, prepared with
hazel-hen fumet. Poach two baba-moulds of royale made from
chestnut puree with two small tablespoonfuls of game salmis
sauce added thereto; cut it into roundels half-inch thick, and
trim these with a grooved fancy-cutter.

Put them into the soup-tureen with two tablespoonfuls of a
julienne of hazel-hen fillets, the same quantity of a julienne of
mushrooms, and pour thereon the boiling game consomm^.

591— CONSOMME AUX NIDS D'HIRONDELLES

The nests used for this soup are those of the esculent swal-
low, and their shape somewhat resembles that of the rind of a
quartered, dry orange.

In the first place, prepare a chicken consomme containing a
large proportion of nutritious principles. Set three nests to
soak in cold water for twenty-four hours, the object being to
swell the mucilaginous elements of which they are composed
and to make them transparent.

When they have soaked sufficiently remove any pieces of
feather which may have remained in them, using for this pur-

SOUPS 213

pose the point of a needle, and, when the nests are quite clean,
drain them and put them into the consomm^. At this stage
set the consomm^ to boil, gently, for thirty or thirty-five
minutes without interruption. During this time the gummy
portions of the nests will melt into the consomm^, giving the
latter its characteristic viscidity, and there will only remain
visible those portions which, in the natural state, constitute the
framework of the nests; that is to say, little threads not unlike
superfine transparent vermicelli.

592— CONSOMME AUX CEUFS DE FAUVETTE

I introduced this consomm^ in honour of the illustrious
singer, Adelina Patti.

It consists of a chicken consomm^, which should be made as
perfect as possible, and a garnish composed of the poached eggs
of small birds.

593— CONSOMME OLQA

Prepare one quart of excellent ordinary consomm6, and add
thereto, when about to serve and away from the fire, one-quarter
pint of port wine.

Also cut into a fine julienne the quarter of a small celeriac,
the white of a leek, and the red part only of a small carrot.
Stew this julienne in butter and complete its cooking in con-
somm^, reducing the latter to a glaze.

When about to serve put this julienne in a soup tureen, add
a few tablespoonfuls of a julienne of salted gherkins, and pour
thereon the consomm^ with port.

594— CONSOMME D'ORLlfeANS

Lay on a buttered tray ten small quenelles of ordinary
chicken forcemeat, ten others of chicken forcemeat combined
with a very red tomato pur^e, and ten more of the same force-
meat, combined with a pur^e of spinach, all the quenelles being
grooved.

Ten minutes before serving poach these quenelles, drain

them, put them in the soup-tureen, and pour therein one quart

of chicken consomm^ thickened with three tablespoonfuls of

poached tapioca strained through linen. Add a pinch of chervil

pluches.

595— CONSOMME D'ORSAY

Prepare one quart of very clear chicken consomm^, also
make fifteen small quenelles of pigeon forcemeat moulded to
the shape of eggs by means of a very small spoon, and poach
the yolks of ten eggs, taking care to keep them very soft.

214 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

Put the quenelles and the poached yolks into the soup-tureen
with a julienne of three fillets of pigeon and a tablespoonful of
asparagus-heads, and pour thereon the boiling consomm^.
Serve at once.

596— OX=TAIL SOUP

For Ten People. — Garnish the bottom of a small stock-pot
or stewpan with one fine carrot and two medium-sized onions
cut into roundels and browned in butter, and one faggot. Add
two small ox-tails, or one of medium size weighing about four
lbs. (The tails should be cut into sections, each of which
should contain one of the caudal vertebras, and they should
then be browned in the oven.) Also add two lbs. of gelatinous
bones, broken very small and likewise browned in the oven.

Now proceed exactly as for brown veal stock (No. 9), taking
note that the whole moistening must consist of no more than
two and one-half quarts of ordinary broth and one quart of
water.

Set to boil very gently for four and one-half or five hours.
This done, strain the broth, which should be reduced to two and
one-half quarts, and completely remove its grease. Transfer
the largest sections of the tails, by means of a braiding-needle,
one by one to another saucepan. Cover them with broth, and
keep them warm for the garnish.

Finely chop one lb. of very lean beef; put this mince into a
saucepan with the white of a leek cut into dice and half the
white of an egg, and mix thoroughly. Add the broth, the
grease of which has been removed, set to boil, stirring con-
stantly the while, and then leave to simmer for one hour, which
is the time required for the beef to exude all its juices and for
the clarification of the broth.

While the clarification is in progress cut a small carrot in
brunoise fashion, or turn it by means of a very small spoon.
Cook this garnish in.a little water with butter, salt, and sugar.

A few minutes before serving strain the ox-tail broth
through a napkin, put the sections of ox-tail and brunoise into
the soup-tureen, and pour thereon the prepared broth. This
soup may be flavoured with port or sherry, but this is optional.
N.B. — If a thickened ox-tail soup be required add to the
broth per every quart of it one-third of an oz. of arrowroot
diluted with a little of the broth or some cold water.

597— CONSOMME PARISIENNE

Have one quart of chicken consomme ready.

For the garnish prepare two dariole-moulds of royale made

SOUPS 215

from a pur^e of ordinary julienne, a small macedoine of vege-
tables, comprising one heaped tablespoonful each of carrots and
turnips divided up by means of a small grooved spoon and
cooked in the usual way, one tablespoonful of small peas, the
same quantity of fine French beans cut into lozenges, and one
tablespoonful of asparagus-heads.

Cut the royale into regular roundels; put these in the soup-
tureen with the macedoine of vegetables, and, when about to
serve, pour thereon the boiling chicken consomm^. Add a
pinch of fine chervil pluches.

598— LA PETITE MARMITE

For Ten People. — Prepare a consomm^ in a special earthen-
ware stock-pot in accordance with the procedure indicated in
recipe No. i, but with the following quantities, viz., two lbs.
of lean beef and as much breast of beef, one marrow-bone
tied in a muslin-bag, and the necks, the pinions, and the giz-
zards of six large fowls, these giblets being inserted in the
stewpan one hour before dishing up.

Moisten with three and one-half quarts of water and add
three-quarters of an oz. of salt. Set to boil, skim as indicated,
and cook gently with the view of obtaining a very clear broth.
One hour before serving add six oz. of carrots and the same
quantity of turnips, both cut to the shape of large olives, five oz.
of the white of leeks, and a heart of celery.

Cook a quarter of a very white, properly blanched cabbage,
separately, in a saucepan with a little consomm^ and some stock
grease.

When about to serve test the seasoning of the consomm6,
which latter should be very clear; thoroughly clean the stewpan,
which may even be covered with a clean napkin; withdraw the
marrow-bone; take it out of its muslin-bag, and send it and
the cabbage to the table separately, accompanied by a plate of
small pieces of hot toast for the marrow.

599— THE POT=AU=FEU

Prepare this exactly like the Petite Marmite.

600— POULE AU POT, or Poule au Pot Henri IV

This is a variation of the Petite Marmite, in which a tender
and very fleshy hen is substituted for the giblets of fowl.

Strictly observe the rule of never using a new earthenware
stock-pot before having boiled water in it for at least twelve
hours. Also bear in mind that earthenware stock-pots should
be washed in hot water only, without any soda or soap.

2i6 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

6oi— CONSOMM^ PRINTANIER

Have ready one quart of chicken consomm^, also cut one
carrot and one turnip into roundels one-half inch thick. With a
tubular cutter one-eighth inch in diameter, cut these roundels
into little rods, making a sufficient number to fill one table-
spoonful with each vegetable. Cook these little rods in con-
somm6, and reduce the latter to a glaze.

Put the carrot and turnip rods into the soup-tureen with one
tablespoonful of small peas, the same quantity of small French
beans and asparagus-heads, the former cut into lozenges, ten
roundels of sorrel leaves, and as many of lettuce leaves, the latter
being poached in some consomm^. When about to serve pour
the boiling consomm^ over these garnishes and add a large
pinch of small chervil pluches.

602— CONSOMM6 PRINTANIER AUX QUENELLES

Prepare the printanier exactly as directed above, but slightly
lessen the quantities of the vegetables constituting the garnish.

Make eighteen small quenelles of chicken forcemeat in the
shape of little grooved meringues, and poach them ten minutes
before dishing up.

Drain them, put them into the soup-tureen with the other
garnishes, and pour thereon the boiling consomme.

603— CONSOMME AUX PROFITEROLLES

Prepare forty very dry frofiterolles (No. 28), and add an ex-
cellent chicken consomme to them at the last moment.

The frofiterolles may also be made to the size of walnuts, in
which case they may be stuffed with a pur^e of chicken, foie
gras, &c.

604— CONSOMME RACHEL

Prepare one quart of chicken consomme, and thicken it with
three tablespoonfuls of poached tapioca strained through linen.
With a round, even cutter stamp out twelve roundels of crumb
of bread the size of pennies and one-half inch thick. Poach in
consomm6 as many slices of very fresh beef-marrow as there
are roundels of bread.

Six minutes before serving fry the roundels of bread in clari-
fied butter, hollow out their centres, and place on each a slice of
poached beef-marrow suitably trimmed.

Put three tablespoonfuls of a julienne of cooked artichoke
bottoms into the soup-tureen, pour thereon the thickened con-
somm^, and add the roundels of bread garnished with marrow.

SOUPS 217

605— CONSOMMI6 R^JANE

Prepare one quart of excellent white consomm^, set it to boil,
and add a julienne of the white of half a fowl and the heads of
two leeks cut similarly to the fowl. Set to cook gently for ten
minutes, taking care to disturb the consomm^ as little as pos-
sible, add three oz. of potatoes cut into a julienne, complete
the cooking, and serve immediately.

606— C0NS0MM6 RENAISSANCE

Prepare one quart of clear chicken consomm^.

For the garnish make two dariole-moulds of royale with a
pur^e of early-season herbs thickened with veloute and whole
eggs ; with a small grooved spoon-cutter pick out one tablespoon-
ful of pellets from a turnip and the red part only of a carrot.
Cook these vegetables in the usual way. Cut the royale with a
grooved fancy-cutter into pieces of the shape of small leaves.
Put the leaves of royale into the soup-tureen with the carrot and
turnip pellets, one tablespoonful of very green peas, the same
quantity of French beans cut into lozenges, one tablespoonful
of asparagus-heads, and twelve very small particles of very
white cauliflower. Pour the boiling consomm^ over these gar-
nishes, and add a pinch of chervil pluches.

607— CONSOMME RICHELIEU

Have ready one quart of highly-seasoned beef consommd.
Also (i) prepare twelve quenelles of chicken forcemeat moulded
by means of a small coffee-spoon, proceeding as follows : — Line
the spoon with a thin coating of the forcemeat, and in the
middle lay some chopped, reduced, cold chicken aspic. Cover
the jelly with a layer of forcemeat, shaping it like a dome ; insert
another spoon (first dipped in hot waterj under the quenelle,
and place the latter upon a buttered saut^pan. Repeat the
operation until the required number of quenelles have been
moulded. Treated in this way, the quenelles, when poached,
contain, so to speak, a liquid core. Five minutes before dishing
up, poach the quenelles.

2. Cut six rectangles out of lettuce leaves; spread a thin
layer of forcemeat over each ; roll into paupiettes, and poach in
some of the consomm^.

3. Prepare two tablespoonfuls of a coarse julienne of carrots
and turnips, stew them in butter, and complete their cooking
in the consomm^, which should be thoroughly cleared of grease.

Put the julienne, the paupiettes, and the stuffed quenelles

21 8 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

into the soup-tureen ; pour therein the boiling beef consomm^,
and add a pinch of chervil pluches.

608— CONiSOMME ROSSINI

Prepare one quart of chicken consomm6, slightly thickened
with two tablespoonfuls of poached tapioca strained through
linen.

Make eighteen profiterolles, from pate a choux without sugar
(No. 2374), to the size of hazel-nuts. Bake them in a moderate
oven, keeping them very crisp, and garnish them, inside, with
a foie-gras and truffle pur^e.

When about to serve, pour the consomm^ into the soup-
tureen, and dish the profiterolles separately, after having placed
them in good time in the front of the oven, so that they may
reach the table very hot.

609— C0NS0MM6 ROTHSCHILD

Have ready one quart of game consomm^, prepared with
pheasant fumet. Add thereto, when about to serve, one-quarter
pint of reduced Sauterne. Make two dariole-moulds of royale
from a preparation consisting of one-third of the whole of pur^e
of pheasant, one-third of chestnut pur^e, and one-third of
pheasant salmis sauce. Poach the royale; cut it into grooved
roundels, and place these in the soup-tureen with one table-
spoonful of a julienne of fillets of pheasant.

When about to serve, pour the boiling consomm^ over the
garnish.

610— C0NS0MM6 SAINT HUBERT

Take one quart of game consomm^, prepared with venison
fumet. Finish the consomm^, at the time of serving, with one-
quarter pint of Marsala.

Make three dariole-moulds of royale from a preparation con-
sisting of one-third of the whole of venison pur^e, one-third
of lentil pur^e, and one-third of reduced game Espagnole.
Poach the royale in a small Charlotte mould, and, when it has
cooled, cut it up. with a fancy-cutter of the shape of a cross.
Put the crosses of royale into the soup-tureen with two table-
spoonfuls of a julienne consisting of fillets of hare, and pour
thereon the boiling consomme.

611— POT AGE SARAH BERNHARDT

Sprinkle three tablespoonfuls of tapioca into one quart of
boiling chicken consomm6, and leave to poach gently for fifteen
or eighteen minutes.

SOUPS 219

Make twenty small quenelles from chicken forcemeat,
finished by means of crayfish butter, and mould them to the
shape of small, grooved meringues. Poach these quenelles.
Cut twelve roundels, the size of a penny, from a piece of beef-
marrow, and poach them in the consomm6.

Put the drained quenelles and the poached roundels of
marrow into the soup-tureen ; add one tablespoonful of a julienne
of very black truffles, and the same quantity of asparagus-heads.
Pour the boiling consomm^, with tapioca, over this garnish.

612— CONSOMME s6VIQN6

Keep one quart of very clear chicken consomm^ very warm.

Prepare ten quenelles of chicken forcemeat, moulded by
means of a small coffee-spoon, and poach them ; also have
ready four braised lettuces.

Put the quenelles, the lettuce cut into small sections and
properly trimmed, and one tablespoonful of peas into the soup-
tureen ; pour therein the boiling consomm6 and a pinch of
chervil pluches.

613— CONSOMM6 SOUVERAINE

Have ready one quart of chicken consomm^.

Make ten large quenelles from chicken forcemeat, and stuff
them with a very fine brunoise, proceeding as follows : — Line
a dessertspodh with a thin coat of forcemeat, and garnish the
centre with the brunoise, previously cooked in consomm^, and
cold. Cover the brunoise with a layer of forcemeat, shaping
it like a dome; insert another dessertspoon dipped into hot
water under the quenelle, and transfer the latter to a buttered
saut6pan. Repeat the operation until the required number of
quenelles have been moulded.

Allow eight minutes for the poaching of these quenelles;
put them into the soup-tureen with two tablespoonfuls of peas;
pour thereon the boiling consomm^, and add a pinch of chervil
pluches.

614— TURTLE SOUP

With the exception of a few leading London restaurants,
where a large quantity of this preparation is constantly in
demand, turtle soup is very rarely prepared in the kitchens of
catering establishments. It is more generally obtained ready-
made, either fresh or preserved, and as a rule of exceptional
quality, from firms whose speciality it is to make it, and who
deliver it in excellent condition.

From among the London firms who have deservedly earned.

220 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

a reputation for this soup, " P6criaux " may be quoted as one
whose produce is quite irreproachable.

When a comparatively small quantity of this soup is re-
quired, it is best to buy it ready-made; in the event of its
being desirable to prepare it oneself, the following recipe will
be found the simplest and most practical for the purpose.

Particulars of the Operation

The Slaughtering of the Turtle. — For soup, take a turtle
weighing from 120 to 180 lbs., and let it be very fleshy and full
of life.

To slaughter it, lay it on its back on a table, with its head
hanging over the side. By means of a double butcher's hook,
one spike of which is thrust into the turtle's lower jaw, -while
the other suspends an adequately heavy weight, make the animal
hold its head back ; then, with all possible dispatch, sever the
head from the body.

Now immediately hang the body over a receptacle, that the
blood may be collected, and leave it thus for one and one-half
or two hours.

Then follows the dismemberment : — To begin with, thrust
a strong knife between the carapace or upper shell and the
plastron or lower shell, exactly where the two meet, and separate
the one from the other. The turtle being on its back, cut all the
adhering flesh from the plastron, and put the latter aside.
Now cut off the flippers; remove the intestines, which throw
away, and carefully collect all the green fat. Whereupon cut
away the flesh adhering to the carapace; once more remove all
fat, and keep both in reserve.

The Treatment of the Carapace, the Plastron, and the
Flippers. — The carapace and plastron, which are the outside
bony framework of the turtle, constitute the only portions where-
from the gelatinous flesh, used as the garnish of the soup, are
obtained.

Saw the carapace into six or eight pieces, and the plastron
into four.

Put these pieces with the flippers into boiling water or into
steam, to blanch. Withdraw the flippers as soon as they are
sufficiently stiff for their skin to be removed, and leave the
pieces of carapace and plastron to blanch for five minutes, in
order that they may admit of being scraped. Now cool the
pieces of carapace and plastron and the flippers, and put them
into a stewpan containing enough water to abundantly cover

SOUPS 221

them. Set to boil; garnish with vegetables, as in the case of
an ordinary broth, and add a small quantity of turtle herbs.

Five or six hours should be allowed for the cooking of the
carapace and the plastron, but the flippers, which are put to
further uses in other culinary preparations, should be withdrawn
at the end of five hours.

When the pieces are taken from the cooking-liquor, remove
all the flesh from the bones, and cool the former; then trim it
carefully, and cut it into little squares of one and one-half
inches side. It is these squares together with the green fat
(poached in salted water and sliced) which constitute the garnish
of the soup.

The Preparation of Turtle Soup. — There are two modes of
procedure, though their respective results are almost identical.

1. Make a broth of the flesh of turtle alone, and then add a
very gelatinous beef consomm^ to it, in pursuance of the
method employed when the turtle soup is bought ready-made.

This procedure is practically the best, more particularly if
the soup has to be kept some time.

2. Make an ordinary broth of shin of beef, using the same
quantity of the latter as of turtle. Also include half a calf's
foot and one-half lb. of calf's shin per 3 lbs. of the beef. Add
the flesh of the turtle, or, in the event of its being thought
necessary to clarify, which operation I do not in the least advise,
reserve it for that purpose.

The condiments and aromatics being the same for both
methods, I shall now describe the procedure for method No. i.

The Ingredients of the Soup. — Put into a stewpan of con-
venient size the flesh of the turtle and its head and bones.
Moisten partly with the cooking-liquor of the carapace, and
complete the moistening, in the case of a turtle weighing
120 lbs., with enough water to bring the whole to 50 quarts.
By this means a soup of about thirty to thirty-five quarts will
be obtained at the end of the operation. Add salt in the
proportion of one oz. per every five quarts; set to boil; skim,
and garnish with twelve carrots, a bunch of leeks (about ten
bound with a head of celery), one lb. of parsley stalks, eight
onions with ten cloves stuck into them, two lbs. of shallots, and
one head of garlic. Set to boil gently for eight hours. An
hour before straining the soup, add to the garnish four strips
of lemon-peel, a bunch of herbs for turtle, comprising sweet
basil, sweet marjoram, sage, rosemary, savory, and thyme, and
a bag containing four oz. of coriander and two oz. of pepper-
corns.

222 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

Finally, strain the soup through a napkin; add the pieces
of flesh from the carapace and plastron which were put aside
for the garnish, and keep it until wanted in specially-made
sandstone jars.

The Serving of the Soup. — When about to serve this soup,
heat it; test and rectify its seasoning, and finish it off by means
of a port wine glass of very old Madeira to every quart.

Very often a milk punch is served wkh turtle soup, the
recipe being : —

Milk Punch. — Prepare a syrup from one-half pint of water
and three and one-half oz. of sugar, the consistence at the
boil being 17° (Baum^'s Hydrometer). Set to infuse in this
syrup two orange and two lemon zests. Strain at the end of
ten minutes, and add one-half pint of rum, one-fifth pint of
kirsch, two-thirds pint of milk, and the juice of three oranges
and three lemons. Mix thoroughly. Let it stand for three
hours; filter, and serve cold.

6 15- CONSOMME TOSCA

Have ready one quart of chicken consomm6 thickened with
three tablespoon fu Is of poached tapioca strained through linen.

Also prepare two tablespoonfuls of a julienne of carrots
stewed in butter, the cooking of which is completed in the con-
somm^ ; ten small quenelles of chicken forcemeat, combined, in
the proportion of one-third, with foie gras and chopped truffles ;
ten small, very crisp profiterolles, stuffed with a pur^e of chicken
with pistachio kernels.

Put the quenelles and the julienne into the soup-tureen,
pour therein the boiling consomm^, and send the profiterolles
to the table separately, and very hot.

6i6— CONSOMME VERT PRE

Sprinkle two tablespoonfuls of tapioca into one quart of
boiling corisomm^, and set to cook gently for a quarter of an
hour.

Put into the soup-tureen one tablespoonful of asparagus-
heads, the same quantity of peas and of French beans cut into
lozenges, a few roundels of sorrel leaves, and as many roundels
of poached lettuce leaves.

Pour the boiling consomm^, with tapioca, over this garnish,
and add a large pinch of chervil pluches.

SOUPS 223

617— C0NS0MM6 VILLENEUVE

Have ready one quart of chicken consomm^.

Prepare the following garnish : — Two small blanched
lettuces, stuffed with chicken forcemeat combined with braised
and chopped salted tongue; two dariole-moulds of ordinary
royale, and two pancakes coated with a layer of chicken force-
meat, which should be placed in the front of the oven for a
few moments with the view of poaching the forcemeat.

Put the cut-up lettuces, the pancakes cut into small, narrow
lozenges, and the royale cut into pastils, into the soup-tureen ;
and, when about to serve, pour the boiling consomm^ over the
whole.

Special Cold Consomm6 for Suppers

Remarks Relative to the Consommes. — I gave the recipes
of these consommes in Part I. of this work (No. 6), and shall
now, therefore, limit myself to the following remarks, which are
of paramount importance : —

1. These consommes must be perfect in limpidness and
quality.

2. The flavour which typifies them should be at once decided
and yet not too pronounced.

3. When the flavour is imparted by a wine, the latter should
be of the best possible quality. Rather than make use of in-
ferior wines, the presence of which in the soup would tend to
depreciate its quality, completely discard wine flavourings.

4. Supper consommes never contain any garnish.

618— CONSOMME A L'ESSENCE DE CAILLES

Use roast quails in the proportion of two for each pint of
consomm^; the fillets may be reserved for a cold entree.

619— CONSOMME A L'ESSENCE DE CJ^LERl

It is impossible to state exactly how much celery should be
used, the quantity being entirely subject to the more or less
decided flavour of the vegetables at one's disposal.

Experience alone can guide the operator in this matter.

620— CONSOMM^ A L'ESSENCE DE MORILLES

Allow five oz. of small fresh morels, or three oz. of dry
ones per quart of the consomm^. Pound them and mix them
with the clarification.

224 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

621— CONSOMME A LESSENCE DE TRUFFLE

Use fresh truffles only in this case. Allow two oz. of peel-
ings and trimmings per quart of the consomm^ ; pound them
and mix them with the clarification.

622-CONSOMM6 AU FUMET DE PERDREAU

Proceed as in No. 618; allow one partridge for each quart
of the consomm6.

623— CONSOMM6 AUX PAILLETTES D OR

Take a very superior chicken consomm^; add thereto, per
quart, a glass of excellent liqueur brandy, and, in the same
proportion, one gold-leaf cut into small spangles.

624— CONSOMME AUX PIMENTS DOUX

Add one-half oz. of fresh or preserved capsicum to every
quart of the consomm^. The product should be pounded and
mixed with the clarification.

625— CONSOMMlS A LA MADRILENE

Add four oz. of raw tomato and one oz. of capsicum to the
consomm6 per every quart of the latter. Mix these ingredients
with the clarification, and serve as cold as possible.

626— CONSOMME A LA PORTUQAISE

Add to the consomm^ for every quart one-third pint of raw
tomato pur^e and one-sixth pint of tomato juice. Cook with
lid on for twenty minutes, taking care not to let it reach the boil ;
strain through muslin, pressing lightly the while, and season
moderately with cayenne. Set to cool, and serve very cold.

627— CONSOMMES AUX VINS

By adding a port wine glass full of the chosen wine to one
pint of excellent cold chicken consomm^, the following series
of consommes may be made : —

Consomm6 au vin de Chypre.

Consomm^ au vin de Mad^re.

Consommd au vin de Malvoisie.

Consomme au vin de Marsala.

Consomm^ au vin de Porto dor^.

Consomm^ au vin de Porto rose.

Consomm^ au vin de Samos.

Consomme au vin de Zucco.

SOUPS 225

628— qel6e AUX POMMES D'AMOUR

Proceed as for the " Consomm^ Portugaise," and use that
variety of small tomatoes which, in Provence, are called
" Pommes d'amour."

629— QELEE DE VOLAILLE A LA NAPOLITAINE

Proceed as for the " Consomm^ Portugaise," but finish it
with one port wine-glassful of port or old Marsala per quart.

THICK SOUPS

In Part I., Chapter I., of this work I pointed out what thick
soups consist of. I likewise touched upon the general rules
which should be observed in the preparation of each class of
these soups, and showed how most of them could, if necessary,
be converted into and served as cullises, purees, bisques,
velout^s, or creams. The principles governing these altera-
tions are very simple, and after a moment's reflection the
operator will thoroughly grasp their import. Be this as it
may, the reader will find the necessary directions at the end
of each recipe that admits of various methods of preparation.

With regard to those recipes which are not followed by any
directions of the sort referred to, and which I simply class
under the name of Potages, these are unalterable preparations
which may only be served in accordance with the directions
given. This being clear, the reader will understand that I
have refrained from repeating the quantities of butter, cream,
thickening ingredients, &c., in each recipe. These particulars
having been given in Part I., it will be necessary to refer to
that part of the book for them.

630— PUR^E DE GAROTTES, otherwise CR^CY

Cut one lb. of the red part only of carrots into fine slices;
chop one onion, and put the whole into a stewpan with a
sprig of thyme and two oz. of butter. Stew gently for twenty
minutes, and season with a pinch of salt and sugar. Add the
thickening ingredient, i.e., either two oz. of rice or five and
one-half oz. of bread dice fried in butter; also add one and one-
half pints of white consomm^, and set to cook very gently.

Rub through tammy, test the consistence, despumate, and
add butter when dishing up.

Ordinary garnish : small bread dice fried in butter.

Occasional garnish : poached Japanese pearls in tKe pro-
portion of two tablespoonfuls per quart of the soup.

Q

226 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

This soup may also be prepared as a cream or a veloutd
k la Nivernaise (see No. 674).

631— pur6e de carottes au tapioca,

otherwise VELOURS

Make one pint of carrot pur^e as above, and poach two
tablespoonfuls of tapioca in a pint of white consomm^.

When about to serve, and after having buttered the pur^e
of carrots, mix therewith the prepared tapioca.

632— PUREE DE CI^LERNRAVE

Finely mince one lb. of celeriac; blanch it; thoroughly drain
it, and stew it gently in one oz. of butter. Moisten with one
quart of white consomm^ ; add two medium-sized potatoes,
minced, and set to cook gently. Rub through tammy; de-
spumate the pur^e gently for half an hour, and add butter when
dishing up.

Garnish : small bread dice fried in butter.

633— PUREE DE CHOUX DE BRUXELLES,
otherwise FLAMANDE

Parboil and drain one lb. of very fresh Brussels sprouts.
Set them to stew gently in three oz. of butter; moisten with one
pint of white consommd; for the leason add two medium-sized
quartered potatoes, and complete the cooking.

Rub the whole through tammy, finish the pur^e with milk,
despumate it in the usual way, and add butter when dishing up.
Garnish with small bread dice fried in butter.

634— PUREE DE CHOUX-FLEURS,
otherwise DUBARRY

Parboil one lb. of cauliflower divided into bunches.

Drain them and put them in a saucepan with one pint of
boiled milk and two medium-sized minced potatoes for the
thickening. Set to cook gently, rub through tammy, finish
with boiled milk, despumate, and add butter.

Garnish with small bread dice fried in butter.

This soup may also be prepared as a velout^ or a cream
with small pieces of cauliflower as garnish.

635_PUREE DE CROSNES, otherwise JAPONAISE

Parboil and drain one lb. of well-cleaned stachys. Stew
them in one oz. of butter; moisten with one pint of boiled

SOUPS 227

milk or white consomm^, according as to whether the pur6e is
to be a Lenten one or not; add two medium-sized minced
potatoes, and complete the cooiting gently.

Rub through tammy, test the consistence, and add, if neces-
sary, either a little boiled milk or some consomm^ ; despumate,
and add butter.

Garnish with two tablespoonfuls of Japanese pearls poached
in consomm^ or milk.

This soup may also be prepared as a velout^ or a cream.

636— PUREE DE FLAGEOLETS, otherwise MUSARD

Cook together with the ordinary aromatic garnish three-
quarters pint of dry flageolets, or, if they are in season, use
twice that quantity of fresh ones.

Drain, pound, and moisten the pur^e with a little of the
cooking-liquor of the flageolets, rub through tammy, and
rectify the consistence with some white consomm6 and the
necessary quantity of boiled milk. Despumate, and butter it
when about to dish up.

Garnish with two tablespoonfuls of small bread dice fried in
butter.

This soup may also be prepared as a velout^ or a cream, but
for either of the latter it is preferable to use fresh flageolets, the
garnish for both consisting of very small flageolets and chervil
pluches.

637 -PURINE DE HARICOTS BLANCS,
otherwise SOISSONNAISE

Cook in the usual way, that is" to say, with carrots, a faggot,
and one onion stuck with a clove, a good half-pint of dry
haricot beans.

Crush all these, moisten with a few tablespoonfuls of their
cooking-liquor, and rub through tammy.

Rectify the consistence of the purde with the necessary
quantity of white consomm^ and milk, despumate, add butter
when about to dish up, and garnish with small bread dice.

This soup may also be prepared as a velout^ or a cream.

638— PUREE DE HARICOTS VERTS,
otherwise CORMEILLES

Parboil one and one-half lbs. of French beans and keep
them very green. After having well drained them, stew them
for ten or twelve minutes in one oz. of butter, moisten with one
pint of white consomm^, and add two medium-sized minced
potatoes for the thickening.

Q 2

228 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

Set to cook gently, rub through tammy, rectify the con-
sistence of the pur^e with a little boiled milk, despumate, and
add butter when dishing up.

Garnish with two tablespoonfuls of cooked French beans
cut into narrow lozenges.

This soup may also be prepared as a velout^ or a cream.

639— PUREE DE HARICOTS ROUGES,
otherwise CONDE

Put a heaped pint of red beans into cold water, set to boil
slowly, skim, add three oz. of carrots, one small faggot, one
onion stuck with a clove, and a bottleful of boiling red wine.
Set to cook gently.

Drain the beans and crush them in a mortar. Moisten the
pur^e with a few tablespoonfuls of the cooking-liquor of the
beans, rub through tammy, rectify the consistence of the purte
with some white consomm^, follow the procedure of afl purees,
and add butter when about to serve.

Garnish with bread dice fried in butter.

640— PUREE DE LENTILLES, otherwise CONTI

Soak three-quarters of a pint of lentils in lukewarm water for
two hours. Put them in a stewpan with two oz. of very lean
breast of bacon, blanched, cooled, and cut into dice, and one
quart of white consomm^. Set to boil, skim, add three oz. of
carrots, one onion, and one faggot, and cook very gently.

Drain the lentils, pound them together with the bacon,
moisten the pur^e with a few tablespoonfuls of cooking-liquor,
and rub through tammy. Rectify the consistence with some
reserved cooking-liquor, then treat the pur^e in the usual way
and add butter when about to serve.

Garnish with two tablespoonfuls of bread dice fried in butter
and a pinch of chervil pluches.

N.B. — It should be borne in mind that the aromatic garnish
used in cooking dry vegetables of what kind soever should be
withdrawn before pounding the latter, that they may be rubbed
through tammy.

641— PUR^E DE NAVETS, otherwise FRENEUSE

Finely mince one lb. of very firm turnips, parboil, driain,
and stew them in one and one-half oz. of butter, the necessary
salt, and one-half oz. of sugar, until they are almost completely
cooked. Moisten with one-half pint of white consomm^, and

SOUPS 229

complete the cooking. Meantime, cook two medium-sized,
peeled and quartered potatoes in some consomm^.

Now put the turnips and the potato into the same stewpan ;
crush them, and rub them through tammy. Bring the purde
to the proper consistence by means of boiled milk, and finish it
in the usual way.

Garnish with some small bread dice fried in butter.

This soup may also be prepared as a velout^ or a cream.

642— PUR^E D'OSEILLE ET DE VERMICELLE

A LA CREME

Sprinkle three oz. of well-separated vermicelli into one pint
o£ boiling milk or white consomm6 (according as to whether
the preparation be a Lenten one or not). Let the vermicelli
poach gently "for twenty-five minutes, and then add four table-
spoonfuls, of sorrel cooked in butter.

Rub the whole through tammy; finish the pur^e with suffi-
cient milk or thin cream ; heat until the boil is reached, and,
when about to serve, complete by means of a leason composed
of the yolks of two eggs and one-quarter pint of very
fresh cream.

For the garnish, refer to the remarks under No. 646.

643— PUREE D'OSEILLE ET DE SAQOU A LA CREME

Proceed exactly as directed in the preceding recipe; but
instead of vermicelli use three oz. of sago. Allow the usual
time for cooking, and add the same quantity of sorrel cooked in
butter.

Use the same quantities of milk or consommd in order to
bring the pur^e to the proper consistence, and make use of a
precisely similar leason.

644— PUREE D'OSEILLE ET DE SEMOULE A LA CR6ME

The same as the above, but use three oz. of semolina. All
other particulars remain the same.

645_PUREE D'OSEILLE ET DE TAPIOCA A LA CREME

Procedure like that of No. 642, using instead of the
vermicelli three oz. of tapioca.

646— REMARKS RELATIVE TO THE POSSIBLE
VARIATIONS OF THE FOUR PRECEDING RECIPES

A large variety of this kind of soups may be prepared by
using the quantity prescribed of salep, buckwheat, oatmeal,
barley-meal, &c.

230 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

These soups derive a particular and agreeable flavour from
their cohering element.

The chief point to be remembered in their preparation is
their consistence, which should be that of a thin cream.

When too thick, these soups are pasty and disagreeable;
when too thin, they are insipid ; hence the desirability of aiming
at a happy medium.

Their garnish is exceedingly variable, the more preferable
forms being small bread dice fried in clarified butter, pressed;
peeled tomatoes cut into dice and tossed in butter; small prin-
taniers, brunoises, juliennes, faysannes, or well-poached rice.

Thus, from the typical recipe of these soups, a whole series
may be prepared, which need not be gone into separately here.

647— PURINE DE POIS AUX CROUTONS

Wash three-quarters of a pint of split peas in cold water and
put them into a stewpan with one quart of cold water, a little
salt, and one-half lb. of raw ham. Set to boil, skim, and add
two oz. of mirepoix, the minced green leaves of three leeks, a
fragment of thyme and bay, salt, and one-half oz. of sugar. Set
to cook very gently.

Rub through tammy, bring the pur^e to the proper con-
sistence by means of white consomm^, despumate it sufficiently,
and add butter to it when dishing up.

Garnish with two tablespoonfuls of small bread dice fried
in butter.

648— PUREE DE POIS FRAIS, otherwise
SAINT-GERMAIN

The two following methods may be employed, viz. : —

(i) Cook quickly one and one-quarter pints of fresh peas,
just shelled, in boiling, salted water. Drain them, pound them
in a mortar, moisten the pur^e with one pint of white con-
somm^, and rub it through tammy. Bring it to the proper
degree of heat, and add butter when about to serve. Prepared
in this way, the puree should be of a perfect shade.

(2) Stew one and one-quarter pints of fresh peas in one and
one-half oz. of butter, a little lettuce chiffonade, one and
one-half oz. of the green part of leeks, a pinch of chervil, a
little salt and sugar, and one-seventh pint of water.

Pound the peas as soon as they are cooked, moisten the
pur^e with one pint of white consomm6, and rub through
tammy. Bring the preparation to the proper degree of heat,
and add butter at the last moment.

SOUPS 231

Treated thus, the iiur^e will be of a fainter shade than the
preceding one, but i^s flavour will be more delicate.

Garnish, in both cases, with one and one-half tablespoonfuls
of very green, fine peas, and some chervil fluches. This soup
may also be prepared as a velout^ or a cream,

649— PUREE DE POIS FRAIS A LA MENTHE

Make the pur^e according to one of the above-mentioned
methods, and add to the peas, while cooking, a faggot consist-
ing of three little sprigs of fresh mint. Finish with con-
somm^, and add butter in the usual way.

Garnish with nice peas, as above, and some very tender
mint-leaves, chopped, instead of the chervil fluches.

Remarks Relative to those Soups which have a Puree of
Peas for Base. — A large number of soups may be made from
purees of fresh peas ; among others I may mention the follow-
ing, with brief directions as to their constituents and garnish,
viz. : —

650— POTAQE AMBASSADEURS

Pur^e of fresh peas, quite ready for soup ; finish with a small
tablespoonful of sorrel and lettuce chiffonade, and two table-
spoonfuls of poached rice per quart of pur6e.

651— POTAQE CAMlfeLIA

Prepare this after the recipe of potage Lamballe ; finish with
one tablespoonful of. a julienne of the white of a leek and one
tablespoonful of white chicken meat, cut julienne-fashion, per
quart of the soup.

652— POTAQE FONTANQES

Puree of fresh peas ready for soup ; add two tablespoonfuls
of a chiffonade of sorrel and a pinch of chervil fluches per
quart of the pur6e, and two tablespoonfuls of poached rice.

653— POTAQE LAMBALLE

Half of this consists of a finished pur^e of peas, and the
other half of tapioca poached in consomm^ as for the ordinary
" potage au tapioca."

654— POTAQE LONQCHAMPS

This is the " potage Fontange," kept somewhat clear, and
with a garnish composed of one and one-half oz. of vermicelli,
poached in consomm^, and a pinch of chervil fluches per quart
of the soup.

232 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

655— POTAQE MARIQNY

Proceed as for " potage Fontange," and add a garnish of
one tablespoonful of peas and one tablespoonful of fine French
beans cut into lozenges.

656— POTAGE MARCILLY

Half of this consists of a pur^e of peas and the other half
of^a pur^e of chicken. Prepare these purees in the usual way
and mix them together when about to serve.

Garnish with two tablespoonfuls of Japanese pearls poached
in consomm6 and twelve small quenelles of chicken forcemeat,
in the shape of pearls, per quart of the soup.

657— POTAGE SAINT-MARCEAU

This is an ordinary puree of peas with butter, combined with
two tablespoonfuls of a julienne consisting of the white of a
leek and some chervil pluches per quart of the purde.
This list could be considerably lengthened, but what there is
of it amply suffices to show the great number of soups that
may be obtained from the combination of other suitable pro-
ducts with the pur6e of peas and the modification of the garnish
in each case.

658— PUREE DE POMMES DE TERRE,
otherwise PARMENTIER

Finely mince the white of two medium-sized leeks, and fry
them without colouration in one oz. of butter. Add three
medium-sized peeled and quartered potatoes, one pint of white
consomme, and cook quickly. The moment the potatoes seem
soft to the touch crush them and rub them through tammy.

Finish the pur^e with some boiled milk or thin cream, heat
until the boil is reached, and add butter when dishing up.

Garnish with two tablesponfuls of small bread dice fried in
butter and some chervil pluches.

This soup may also be prepared as a velout^ or a cream.

659— PUR^E DE TOMATES, otherwise PORTUQAISE

Fry in one oz. of butter a somewhat finely-cut mirepoix
consisting of one oz. of breast of bacon cut into dice, one-third
of a carrot, half an onion, a fragment of thyme and bay. Add
to this fried mirepoix eight medium-sized tomatoes, pressed and
cut into pieces the size of a clove of garlic, a pinch of sugar,
two and one-half oz. of rice, and one pint of white consomme.

SOUPS 233

Set to cook gently, rub through tammy, and finish with the
necessary quantity of consomm6.

When about to serve complete the pur^e by adding thereto,
away from the fire, two oz. of butter.

Garnish with two tablesponfuls of poached rice, each grain
being separate, and the same quantity of peeled tomatoes cut
into dice and briskly tossed in butter.

This soup may also be prepared as a velout^ or a cream.

660— PUREE DE TOMATES AU TAPIOCA,
otherwise WALDfeZE

Prepare one and one-half pints of tapioca in white con-
somme, and keep it a little lighter than ordinary tapioca. Also
press, peel, and cut into dice the pulp of three medium-sized,
very red tomatoes; poach these dice in some consomm^ and mix
them with the tapioca.

Or, failing fresh tomatoes, add to the tapioca two table-
spoonfuls of concentrated tomato pur6e diluted in a bowl with
some white consomm^.

Send two oz. of grated cheese to the table separately.

661— PUR^E DE TOPINAMEOUR,
otherwise PALESTINE

Finely mince two lbs. of Jerusalem artichokes and stew them
in one oz. of butter. Add five torrefied and crushed filberts,
moistened with one pint of white consomm^, and set to cook
gently. Rub through tammy; finish the purde with one-quarter
pint of milk;, in which one tablespoonful of fecula has been
diluted, cold. Set to boil and add butter when dishing up.

Garnish with small bread dice fried in butter.

This soup may also be prepared as a velout^ or a cream.

662— BISQUE D'ECREVISSES

(i) Cut into very small dice one oz. of carrot, one oz. of
onion, and two parsley stalks. Add a fragment of thyme and
bay; brown this mirepoix with butter, in a saut^pan; throw in
fifteen crayfish for " Bisque " (their average weight being about
one and one-third oz.), and toss them in the mirepoix until they
acquire a very red colour. Sprinkle with two tablespoonfuls
of burnt brandy and one-quarter pint of white wine, season with
a large pinch of salt and a pinch of ground pepper, and set to
reduce.

This done, moisten with one-quarter pint of white consomm^
and leave to cook for ten minutes.

234 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

Also cook three oz. of rice in one and one-half pints of
white consomm^.

(2) Shell the crayfishes' tails and put them aside; also re-
-serve eight carapaces. Drain the crayfishes of all their cooking-
liquor; finely pound them and their remains and the mirepoix.
Add the rice, properly cooked, and the cooking-liquor of the
crayfish, and rub through a sieve, first, and then through
tammy. .

Add to the resulting purde one-half pint of white consomm^,
set to boil, wielding a whisk the while, pass through a strainer,
and then keep the preparation in a bain-marie, taking care to
place a few lumps of butter on its surface lest a skin should
form while the bisque is waiting to be served.

Finish the preparation when dishing up with two and one-
half oz. of butter, three tablespoonfuls of excellent thick cream,
and a very little cayenne.

Garnish with the crayfish tails cut into dice, and the eight
carapaces stuffed with a fish forcemeat with cream and poached
seven or eight minutes previously.

This soup may also be prepared as a veloute or a cream.

663— BISQUE DE HOMARD

After substituting for the crayfish a raw lobster weighing
three lbs., cut into small sections, the procedure is the same as
that of No. 662. It is only necessary, therefore, to refer to that
recipe for all particulars relating to preparation and quantities.

Garnish with the meat taken from the tail ; this should have
been kept aside and cut into small dice.

This soup may also be prepared as a velout6 or a cream.

664— BISQUE DE CREVETTES

The mode of procedure for this bisque, the mirepoix, the
thickening ingredients, the moistening, and the finishing of
the soup are identical with those of No. 662.

All that is needed, therefore, is to substitute for the crayfish
two lbs. of raw shrimps.

Instead of using ordinary butter in finishing this bisque, use
three oz. of shrimp butter. Garnish with twenty-five reserved
tails, these being shelled and trimmed.

This soup may also be prepared as a veloutd or a cream.

665— COULIS DE QIBIER, otherwise AU CHASSEUR

Prepare six oz. of the meat of a wild rabbit, six oz. of that
of a partridge, and six oz. of that of a pheasant. These meats
should be roasted and their roast-cases swilled with a liqueur-

SOUPS 235

glass of burnt brandy. The resulting gravy should be added
to the soup.

Now finely pound these meats together with one-half pint of
cooked and drained lentils. When the whole has become a
smooth purde add the cooking-liquor of the lentils and the
swillings referred to above and rub through tammy.

Finish the cullis with the necessary quantity of consomm6,
heat it, and pass it through a strainer. Add butter at the last
moment and season moderately.

Garnish with three tablesponfuls of small, very fresh mush-
rooms; these to be finely minced and tossed in butter.

666— COULIS DE QRIVES AU PAIN NOIR,
otherwise A L'ARDENNAISE

Fry four fine thrushes in butter and complete their cooking
in one pint of feathered game consomm6 containing five oz. of
rye-bread dice fried in butter. These dice constitute in this
case the thickening element of the soup. Remove and put aside
the thrushes' fillets, finely pound the carcasses together with two
juniper-berries, add the leason of bread dice, and rub through
tammy.

Add to the resulting pur^e one-quarter pint of feathered-
game consomm^, set to boil, and pass through a strainer.
Finish the cullis with two and one-half oz. of butter and four
tablespoonfuls of cream.

Garnish with the reserved fillets cut into thin slices or into
a julienne.

667— COULIS DE GROUSE OU DE QELINOTTE

A L'ANCIENNE

Proceed as in No. 666 in so far as the preparatory details
and the quantities are concerned, but take note of the following
changes in other directions : —

(i) Substitute for the thrushes two grouse or two hazel-hens,
taking care to discard the legs and the carcasses.

(2) Use ordinary bread dice instead of those of rye-bread.

668— COULIS DE LAPEREAU AU CURRIE

Cut the legs of a young wild rabbit into small pieces, stiffen
these in butter, and put them into the stewpan with a few
roundels of carrot and onion, one small faggot of parsley and
celery, and one quart of white consomm^. Set to cook gently.

Also lightly brown in butter two tablesponfuls of chopped
onion, besprinkle with one-half tablespoonful of fecula and a

236 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

sufficient quantity of curry, moisten with the strained cooking-
liquor of the pieces of rabbit, bring to the boil, and set to simmer
for seven or eight minutes. Rub through tammy and then
despumate for twenty minutes, adding from time to time one or
two tablespoonfuls of consomm^ with the view of promoting the
clarification of the cullis. When about to serve finish the latter
with three or four tablespoonfuls of cream.

Garnish with eighteen very small slices taken from the pieces
of rabbit and two oz. of rice a I'lndienne, serving the latter
separately.

669— COULIS DE PERDREAU A LA PUREE DE
MARRONS, otherwise A LA MANCELLE

Split the shells of fifteen fine chestnuts, put them in a stew-
pan with water, boil them for five minutes, and shell and peel
them quickly while they are still very hot. Then cook them
gently in one-half pint of white consomm^ with one-third of a
stick of celery, minced, and one piece of loaf-sugar.

Poele a partridge, remove the fillets for the purpose of gar-
nish, bone the rest, and pound it finely together with the car-
cass and the poeling liquor. Add the chestnuts, pound the
whole, and add some consomm6 to the resulting pur^e with
the object of facilitating the rubbing through tammy. This
done, add to the preparation about one-quarter pint of very
clear game stock, bring the whole to the boil, pass it through a
strainer, and finish the cullis, when dishing up, with a very
little cayenne and one and one-half oz. of butter.

Garnish with the fillets of partridge cut into a small
julienne.

670— COULIS DE VOLAILLE, otherwise A LA REINE

Poach in one quart of white consomm^ a cleaned fowl weigh-
ing about three lbs. and two oz. of rice previously blanched.
Having cooked the fowl, withdraw it, raise its fillets, and put
them aside. Bone the remainder and finely pound the meat.
When the latter is a smooth paste mix therewith the rice, which
should be very well cooked, add the necessary amount of white
consomm6 to the pur^e, and rub through tammy. Bring the
cullis to the boil and pass it through a fine strainer.

Finish the preparation, when dishing up, with a leason com-
posed of the yolks of three eggs, one-sixth pint of cream, and
three oz. of butter.

Garnish with the reserved fillets cut into small, regular dice.

This soup may also be prepared as a velout^ or a cream.

SOUPS 237

671— VELOUTI^ AQNfeS SOREL

(i) Prepare one and one-half pints of poultry velout^, keep-
ing it somewhat thin,

(2) Clean, wash, peel, and quickly pound eight oz. of very
fresh mushrooms, newly gathered if possible.

Rub through a fine sieve, and add the resulting pur6e of
raw mushrooms to the velout^. Bring the whole to the boil once
or twice, and this done rub through tammy immediately.
Finish with the leason and add butter when dishing up.

Garnish with one tablespoonful of a julienne of raw mush-
rooms tossed in butter, one tablespoonful of chicken fillets, and
as much salted tongue, both of which should also be cut in
julienne-fashion .

N.B. — With regard to velout^s I remind the reader that the
velout^ of ordinary consistence represents one-half of the soup,
the pur^e typifying the latter represents one-quarter, while the
consomm^ required to bring the soup to the correct degree of
consistence should be in the proportion of the remaining
quarter.

The leason, per quart of the soup, should consist of the yolks
of three eggs and one-sixth pint of cream, while the average
quantity of butter should measure about two and one-half oz.
(see No. 242).

This soup may also be prepared as a cream.

672— VELOUTE DE BLANCHAILLE AU CURRIE

Bear in mind that this soup ought to be made and served
within the space of twenty minutes, for if it be left to stand for
however short a time, it will most probably turn, in spite of
every possible precaution.

Cook three oz. of finely chopped onion in butter without
colouration, besprinkle with one-half coffeespoonful of curry,
moisten with one and one-half pints of boiling water, add
a faggot, a pinch of salt, a few sprigs of saffron (or a little of
it powdered), and two pz. of Viennese bread.

Set to boil for ten minutes; this done add three-quarters lb.
of very fresh Blanchailles, and cook over a brisk fire.

Rub through a hair-sieve, finish by means of a leason con-
sisting of the yolks of three eggs and one-fifth pint of cream,
and pour the whole into the soup-tureen over some dried slices
of bread (buttered), over rice, or over some previously poached
vermicelli. Serve at once.

238 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

673— VELOUTE CARMELITE

Prepare one and one-half pints of fish velout^, stew four oz.
of fillets of sole and the same quantity of fillets of whiting in
one and one-half oz. of butter and lemon juice. Pound the fish,
add it to the velout^, and rub through tammy.

Add the necessary quantity of consomm^, heat the velout^,
and finish it, when about to serve, with a leason and butter.

Garnish with one tablespoonful of a julienne of poached
fillets of sole and twelve small quenelles of smelt forcemeat.

This soup may also be prepared as a cream.

674— VELOUTE AUX CAROTTES, otherwise
NIVERNAISE

Cut into thin slices one lb. of the red part only of carrots,
season with a pinch of table-salt and twice that amount of
castor-sugar, and stew in one oz. of butter.

Add one pint of ordinary thin velout6 and let the cooking of
the carrots be completed therein. Rub through tammy, finish
with one-half pint of white consomm^, set to boil, and complete
the preparation, when dishing up, with the leason and butter.

Garnish with one and one-half tablespoonfuls of a fine
brunoise of the red part of carrots.

This soup may also be prepared as a cream.

675_VELOUT]6 COMTESSE

Prepare one pint of ordinary velout6, parboil one and one-
half lbs. of white asparagus, and put them into the velout6.
Complete the cooking gently. Rub through tammy, add one-
half pint of white consomm^, heat, and finish the preparation,
when dishing up, with the leason and butter.

Garnish with one tablespoonful of a lettuce chiffonade and
twelve small white asparagus-heads wherefrom all leaves have
been removed.

This soup may also be prepared as a cream.

676— VELOUTE AU CONCOMBRES, otherwise
DANOISE

Peel, remove the seeds from, mince, and stew in butter one
lb. of parboiled cucumber. Add this to one pint of ordinary
veloutd, which should have been prepared at the same time, and
complete the cooking quickly. Rub through tammy, add the
necessary quantity of white consomm^, heat, and finish the
preparation, when dishing up, with a leason and butter in the
usual quantities.

SOUPS 239

Garnish with small bread dice fried in butter.
This soup may also be prepared as a cream.

677— VELOUTE CRESSONIERE

After having slightly parboiled them, stew one lb", of very
fresh watercress leaves in one and one-half oz. of butter, add
them to one pint of ordinary velout^. Set to simmer for seven
or eight minutes, rub through tammy, add one and one-half
pints of ordinary white consomm6, heat, and finish the prepara-
tion, when dishing up, with a leason and butter.

Garnish with one oz. of watercress leaves parboiled for three
minutes.

This soup may also be prepared as a cream.

678— VELOUTE DAME = BLANCHE

Prepare one and one-half pints of clear poultry velout^.
Also finely pound ten or twelve well-washed sweet almonds,
moisten them, little by little, with one-sixth pint of fresh water,
and rub through a strong towel, twisting the latter to assist the
process.

Add this almond milk to the velout^, and finish the latter,
when dishing up, with the leason and butter.

Garnish with one tablespoonful of the white of a chicken
cut into small dice, and twelve small quenelles of chicken force-
meat (in the shape of pearls) poached just before dishing up.

679— VELOUTE D'ARTOIS

Prepare one pint of ordinary velout6, and mix therewith one-
half pint of a pur^e of haricot beans. Rub through tammy;
add one-half pint of white consomm^; heat, and finish the
whole, when dishing up, with the leason and butter.

Garnish with two tablespoonfuls of an ordinary julienne and
a pinch of chervil pluches.

This soup may also be prepared as a cream.

680— VELOUTE D'EPERLANS

Prepare a thin panada with one pint of boiled milk and two
and one-half oz. of crumbled bread. Season with a pinch of
salt and a very small quantity of mignonette. Also stew
gently, in one oz. of butter, two tablespoonfuls of chopped
onion, two and one-half oz. of fillets of smelt, one-half lb. of
fillets of sole, or the meat of a dory, and the juice of the quarter
of a lemon.

240 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

Add the fish, stewed in butter and pounded, to the panada,
together with one-half pint of ordinary thin veloutd.

Rub through tammy ; heat ; season with a very little cayenne,
and finish the whole, when dishing up, with an ordinary leason
and one and one-half oz. of butter.

N.B. — I. In view of the decided flavour of the smelt, and
the really disagreeable taste it imparts to a preparation which
contains overmuch of it, its flesh should never exceed the pro-
portion of one-third of the required quantity of fish. The re-
maining two-thirds should be supplied by a fish of neutral
flavour, such as the sole or dory, both of which are admirably
suited to this purpose.

2. The velout^ d'^perlans should, like almost all fish
velout^s, be prepared as quickly as possible, and at the last
moment. The process should not last longer than thirty
minutes, for, if there be any delay, the preparation will turn
and lose its flavour.

3. For this soup I elected to use a panada as the thickening
element, instead of a fish velout^, the reason being that, were
the latter used, the taste of fish would in the end be too pro-
nounced.

681— VELOUTE D'^PERLANS JOINVILLE

Proceed in the matter of the base of the soup as in No. 680.

Finish the velout6 with an ordinary leason and one and one-
half oz. of shrimp butter.

Garnish with six crayfish tails, cut into four pieces, and one
tablespoonful of a short julienne of truffles and mushrooms.

682— VEL0UT6 D'EPERLANS PRINCESSE

The same as above, with twelve small quenelles of smelt
forcemeat with crayfish butter, and one tablespoonful of very
green asparagus-heads per quart of veloutd.

683— VEL0UT6 AUX QRENOUILLES, otherwise
SICILIENNE

Prepare one and one-half pints of delicate and rather thin
fish velout^.

Trim fifteen or twenty frogs' legs ; toss them in butter with-
out letting them acquire any colour, and set them to poach for
ten minutes in two tablespoonfuls of white wine and the juice
of a lemon. Pound them in a mortar; add the resulting pur^e
to the velout^ ; set to simmer for seven or eight minutes, and
rub through tammy.

SOUPS 241

Heat the velout^, and finish it, when dishing up, with the
ordinary leason %nd three and one-half oz. of best butter.
Do not garnish this velout^.
This soup may also be prepared as a cream.

684- VELOUTE DE HOMARD, otherwise CARDINAL

Prepare one and three-quarter pints of bisque de homard
(No. 663), but substitute velout^ for the thickening with rice.
Rub through tammy; heat, and complete, when dishing up,
with two and one-half oz. of lobster butter and three-quarters
oz. of red butter.

Garnish with two baba-moulds of a royale of lobster, cut by
means of a fancy-cutter in the shape of a cross.

Shell-fish velout^s do not admit of an egg-yolk leason.

685— VELOUTE DE HOMARD A CLEVELAND

Break up two small live lobsters or one medium-sized one,
and prepare it k I'Am^ricaine (see " Lobster k I'Amdricaine ").
Reserve a few slices of the meat for garnishing purposes.
Finely pound the rest with the shell ; combine the pur^e with
one quart of ordinary veloutd prepared beforehand, and add
the lobster sauce. Rub through a sieve, first, then through
tammy ; heat without allowing to boil ; add the required quantity
of consomm^, and once more pass the whole through a strainer.

Complete, when dishing up, with three oz. of best butter.

Garnish with one-half tablespoonful of peeled tomato pulp,
cut into dice and half-melted in butter, and the reserved slices
of lobster cut into dice.

686 -VELOUTE DE HOMARD A L'INDIENNE

Prepare the lobster k I'Am^ricaine as above, and flavour it
with curry. Preserve a sufficient quantity of meat from the
tail to afford an abundant garnish.

For the rest of the process proceed exactly as the preceding
recipe directs.

Garnish with the reserved meat cut into dice, and four table-
spoonfuls of rice k I'lndienne; send the latter to the table
separately.

687— VEL0UT6 DE HOMARD A L'ORIENTALE

Prepare a medium-sized lobster after the manner directed
in " Homard k la Newburg with raw lobster" (see No. 948),
and season with curry.

Reserve a few slices of the meat of the tail for the garnish ;

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242 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

finely pound the remaining portions and the shell ; add the
lobster sauce, and combine the whole with one quart of ordinary
velout^, kept somewhat light.

Rub through a sieve, first, then through tammy; heat the
velout6 without letting it boil; add the necessary quantity of
consomm^, and finish the preparation, when about to serve,
with three oz. of butter.

Garnish with the reserved meat cut into dice, and two table-
spoonfuls of rice k I'lndienne, each grain of which should be
kept distinct and separate.

688— VEL0UT6 DE HOMARD AU PAPRIKA

Prepare a medium-sized lobster k I'Am^ricaine, and, in
addition to the usual ingredients of the preparation, include
two concassed tomatoes and two roughly chopped onions.
Season with paprika.

For the rest of the operation, proceed exactly as directed
under " Velout6 k la Cleveland."

Garnish with lobster meat cut into dice, two tablespoonfuls
of rice, and one tablespoonful of pimentos cut into dice.

689— VEL0UT6 DE HOMARD A LA PERSANE

Proceed exactly as for " Velout^ de Homard k I'Orientale."

Garnish with lobster meat in dice, one tablespoonful of
pimentos in dice, and two tablespoonfuls of pilaff rice, to which
add a very little saffron.

Remarks relating to the Variation of these Veloutes. — By
merely substituting an equivalent quantity of crayfish, shrimps,
or crabs, for the lobster, the recipes dealing with veloutes of
lobster, given above, may be applied to Veloutes of Crayfish,
Shrimps, or Crabs.

It would therefore be pointless to repeat them, since all that
is needed is to read crayfish, shrimps, or crabs wherever the
word lobster appears.

Thus I shall only point out that the number of these
veloutes may be increased at will, the only requisites being the
change of the basic ingredient and the modification of the
garnish,

690— VELOUTE AUX HUITRES

Prepare one quart of very delicate fish velout6, and bear in
mind that the preparation must be made as speedily as pos-
sible. (See the remarks dealing with this question which follow
upon the model recipe of the velout^ d'^perlans.)

SOUPS 243

Add to the velout^ the carefully collected liquor of the
twenty-four oysters constituting the garnish, and complete,
when about to serve^ with a leason and butter.

Garnish with four poached oysters (cleared of their beards)
per each person.

691— VELOUT^ ISOLINE

Prepare one quart of poultry velout^. Complete it, when
dishing up, with an ordinary leason and three oz. of crayfish
butter.

Garnish with three tablespoonfuls of Japanese pearls poached
in white consomm^.

692— VEL0UT1& MARIE LOUISE

Prepare one pint of poultry velout6 ; mix therewith one-half
pint of barley cream (No. 712), and rub through tammy. Add
one-half pint of white consomm^, and heat the velout^ without
letting it boil.

Finish it, when about to serve, with a leason and butter.
Garnish with one and one-half tablespoonfuls of best macaroni,
poached and cut into dice.

This soup may also be prepared as a cream.

693— VELOUTE MARIE STUART

Prepare a poultry velout^ with barley cream, as above.
Finish it, when about to serve, with a leason and butter.

Garnish with two tablespoonfuls of a brunoise, and the
same quantity of fine pearl barley cooked in white consomm^.

This soup may also be prepared as a cream.

694— VELOUTE AU POURPIER

Proceed exactly as directed under " Velout6 Cressoni^re "
(No. 677), but substitute purslain for the watercress.

695— VEL0UT6 A LA SULTANE

Prepare one quart of poultry velout^. Finish it, when
dishing up, with a leason composed of the yolks of three eggs
diluted with one-fifth pint of sweet-almond milk (made by
pounding eighteen sweet almonds, mixing therewith one-fifth
pint of water, and straining the whole through a twisted towel),
and three oz. of pistachio butter. The velout^ should be of a
pale green shade.

Garnish with small crescents of chicken forcemeat prepared
with crayfish butter, kept of a pink shade. These crescents

R 2

244 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

should be laid, by means of a piping-bag, upon thin roundels
of truffle, and poached in consomm^.

This soup may also be prepared as a cream.

695a— COLD CHICKEN VELOUXfi FOR SUPPERS

The preparation of these veloutds requires the utmost care,
but, as a rule, they are very much liked.

Prepare a white roux from one oz. of butter and one and
one-sixth oz. of flour per quart of the moistening. Dilute with
some very strong clear consomm^, thoroughly cleared of
grease ; boil, and despumate for one and one-half hours, adding
meanwhile half as much consomm^ as served in the moistening
of the velout6.

When the velout^ is thoroughly despumated and entirely
cleared of grease, strain it through a silk sieve, and add, per
quart, one-quarter pint of very fresh thin cream. Cool, stirring
incessantly the while; once more strain the velout^ through the
sieve when it is cold, and, if necessary, add some of the
consomm^ already used, in order to give the velout^ the con-
sistence of a thickened consomme. Serve it in cups, and see
that it be sufficiently thin to not impaste the mouth of the
consumer.

This velout^ is usually served as it stands, but it allows of
various condimentary adjuncts. Such are : — Tomato and cap-
sicum essences; crayfish, shrimp, or game creams. These
creams or essences should be of consummate delicacy, and
ought to lend only a very delicate flavour to the velout^.

696— CREME D'ARTICHAUTS AU BEURRE DE NOISETTE

Have ready one and one-half pints of Bechamel. Parboil,
finely mince, and stew in butter four large artichoke-bottoms.
Pound the latter; put them in the Bechamel, and rub the whole
through tammy.

Add the necessary quantity of white consomm^ or milk, and
set to heat without allowing to boil. Finish the preparation,
when dishing up, with one-quarter pint of cream and one oz.
of hazel-nut butter (No. 155).

Remarks relative to Creams. — I remind the reader here
that (i) the thickening element of creams is a Bechamel prepared
in the usual way (see No. 28) ; (2) in the preparation of a cream,
of what kind soever, the Bechamel should constitute half of
the whole, the basic ingredient a quarter, and the white con-
somm^ or milk the remaining quarter.

SOUPS 245

As a rule, they comprise no butter, but are finished by means
of one-third pint of very fresh cream per quart. Be this as it
may, if it be desirable to butter them, one may do so, but in
very small quantities, and taking care to use the very best
butter.

This class of soups is more particularly suited to Lenten
menus.

697— CREME D'ASPERQES, otherwise ARQENTEUIL

Parboil for five or six minutes one and one-half lbs. of
Argenteuil asparagus, broken off at the spot where the hard
part of the stalk begins. Drain them, and set them to complete
their cooking gently in one and one-quarter pints of previously
prepared Bechamel.

Rub through tammy; add the necessary quantity of white
consomm6, and heat without allowing to boil.

Finish with cream when dishing up.

Garnish with two tablespponfuls of white asparagus-heads
and a pinch of chervil pluches.

698— CRfiME D'ASPERQES VERTES

Proceed exactly as for " Cr^me Argenteuil," but substitute
green asparagus for Argenteuil asparagus.

699— CREME AU BL6 VERT, otherwise CI^RES

Put one lb. of dry, green wheat to soak in cold water for
four hours. Then cook it slowly in one-half pint of water and
as much white consomm^. Mix therewith one and one-quarter
pints of Bechamel and rub through tammy.

Add the necessary amount of white consomm^ to the pur^e ;
heat the whole without boiling, and finish it with cream when
dishing up.

Garnish with a pinch of chervil pluches.

This soup may also be prepared as a pur6e or a velout^.

700— CRfiME DE CELERI

Mince one lb. of the white of celery; parboil for seven or
eight minutes; drain, and stew in one oz. of butter. Mix one
and one-quarter pints of Bechamel with it ; complete the cooking
slowly, and rub through tanlmy.

Add one-half pint of white consommd ; heat without allowing
to boil, and finish the preparation with cream when about to
serve.

Garnish with two tablespoonfuls of a brunoise of celery.

This soup may also be prepared as a purde or a veloutd.

246 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

701— CRfeME DE CERFEUIL BULBEUX,
otherwise CHEVREUSE

Mince and stew in butter one lb. of bulbous chervil, and
mix therewith one and one-quarter pints of Bechamel. Com-
plete the cooking slowly; rub through tammy; add sufficient
white consomme ; heat, and finish with cream when dishing
up. Garnish with one tablespoonful of a fine julienne of
chicken fillets and the same quantity of a julienne of truffles.

This soup may also be prepared as a velout^.

702— CREME DE CHICOREE DE BRUXELLES,
otherwise BRUXELLOISE

Take one lb. of very fresh chicory, and stew it for a good
half-hour in one and one-half oz. of butter and the juice of one
lemon.

Now mix one and one-quarter pints of Bechamel with it,
and finish the cooking very slowly. Rub through tammy; add
the necessary quantity of white consommd ; heat, and complete
with cream when serving.

Garnish with a julienne of Belgian chicory, stewed and well
drained.

703— CREME D'EPINARDS, otherwise FLORENTINE

Quickly parboil one lb. of shredded and well-washed spinach
to which a little sorrel may be added; drain, press, and add
thereto one and one-half pints of somewhat thin Bechamel.
Complete the cooking; rub the whole through tammy, and
finish it with the necessary amount of fresh cream.

Garnish with a julienne of spinach, quickly parboiled and
stewed in butter.

704— CRfiME DE FEVES NOUVELLES

Skin two-thirds lb. of new broad beans, freshly gathered, if
possible. Cook them for ten minutes in boiling salted water
containing a sprig of savory, and then add one and one-quarter
pints of Bechamel. Complete the cooking of the broad beans
in the Bechamel; rub through tammy; add one-half pint of
white consomm^ or milk ; heat without allowing to boil, and
finish the preparation with cream when dishing up.

Garnish with very small skinned broad beans, split in two
and parboiled with a sprig of savory.

This soup may also be prepared as a velout6.

SOUPS 247

70s— CREME D'IQNAMES, otherwise BRESILIENNE

Bake the yams in the oven, without peeling them. As soon
as this is done, cut them in two, remove their pulp, and quickly
rub the latter through a sieve while it is still hot. Dilute the
pur^e with boiling milk or thin Bechamel in the proportion of
one pint of the former and one-half pint of the latter per lb.
of the pur6e. (This Bechamel should be made from one and
one-half oz. of butter and one oz. of flour per quart of milk.)

Rub the whole through tammy, and finish the preparation
in the usual way. Garnish with two tablespoonfuls of Japanese
pearls, poached in consomm6.

This soup may also be prepared as a velout6.

706— CREME DE LAITUES, otherwise JUDIC

Parboil and stew in butter two medium-sized ciseled lettuces,
the greenest leaves of which should have been discarded. Add
these to one and one-half pints of Bechamel.

Rub through tammy ; add one pint of white consomm^ ; heat,
and finish as usual with cream.

Garnish with roundels of lettuce leaves, lightly coated with
chicken forcemeat, a bit of truffle laid in their centre, and the
whole poached at the last minute. /

This soup may also be prepared as a velout^.

707— CREME DE MAIS, otherwise WASHINGTON

Cook some fresh maize in salted water (or use the preserved
kind if the fresh is out of season), and combine therewith an
equal quantity of thin Bechamel. Rub through tammy; heat,
and finish with cream when dishing up.

Garnish with grains of maize cooked in salted water.

This soup may also be prepared as a velout^ by substituting
for the Bechamel an excellent poultry velo'ute.

708— CRfeME D'OSEILLE A L'AVOINE

Pour one-quarter lb. of oatmeal diluted with one-half pint
of cold milk into one quart of slightly salted boiling milk. Stir
over the fire until the boil is reached; move the stewpan to the
side of the fire, and simmer for two hours.

This done, add six tablespoonfuls of a fondue of sorrel and
butter; set to simmer again for one-quarter hour, and rub the
whole through tammy.

Complete the operation after the manner common to all
cieams.

248 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

yop-CRfiME D'OSEILLE A L'ORQE

Proceed exactly as for No. 708, using the same quantities,
but substituting barley-meal for oatmeal.

Remarks upon the Two above Creams. — They may also be
prepared as velout^s. Their garnish may be greatly varied,
and may consist of chiffonade of lettuce and sorrel ; pressed
peeled tomatoes, cut into dice and cooked in butter; poached
rice or pastes {i.e., vermicelli, &c.); fine well-cooked pearl
barley ; brunoise ; small printaniers, &c.

They belong, in fact, to the same order of soups as the
purees of sorrel with pastes, the recipes of which were given
earlier in the chapter.

710— CREME D'OXALIS

Peel and slice the oxalis roots, and half-cook them in salted
water. Drain, add it to one and one-half pints of Bechamel,
and complete its cooking gently in the sauce.

Rub through tammy ; add one-half pint of white consomme,
and finish after the manner of other creams. Garnish with
chervil pluches.

This soup may also be prepared as a pur6e or a velout6.

711— CRBME DE RIZ

Wash one-half lb. of rice in cold water; blanch it; cool it,
and cook it very gently in one quart of white consomm^.
Crush in the mortar; rub through tammy, and dilute the rice
pur^e with one pint of white consomm^. Heat and finish the
preparation, when dishing up, with the necessary quantity of
cream.

Or pour four tablespoonfuls of rice cream, diluted with one-
half pint of cold milk, into three pints of boiling milk; set to
boil, stirring the while, and leave to cook very gently for
twenty-five minutes. Rub through tammy, and finish the pre-
paration, when dishing up, with the required quantity of cream.

This soup may also be prepared as a velout^.

712— crEme D'ORQE

Wash three-quarters lb. of coarse pearl barley in lukewarm
water, and cook it gently for about two and one-half hours in
one pint of white consomm6 containing one piece of the white
part of a stick of celery.

Crush in a mortar; rub through tammy; dilute the pur^e of
barley with one pint of white consomm^; heat, and finish the

SOUPS 249

preparation, when dishing up, with the necessary quantity of
cream.

This soup may also be prepared with barley-meal, the pro-
cedure in that case being the same as that of the " Cr^me de
Riz " above.

Garnish with very fine, well-cooked pearl barley.

This soup may also be prepared as a veloutd.

713— CRfeME DE VOLAILLE PRINCESSE

Mix one and one-half pints of thin Bechamel with one-half
pint of chicken pur6e. Rub through tammy; add one-half
pint of white consomm^ to the preparation, or the same quantity
of boiled milk; heat without allowing to boil, and finish with
cream when dishing up.

Garnish with twenty very small slices of chicken fillets, white
asparagus-heads, and chervil pluches.

This soup may also be prepared as a velout^.

714— crBme reine-marqot

Mix one-half pint of chicken pur^e with one pint of thin
Bdchamel. Rub through tammy; add one and one-half pints
of white consomm6 and one-quarter pint of almond milk (No.
678). Heat without allowing to boil, and finish with cream.

Garnish with very small grooved quenelles of chicken force-
meat combined with one oz. of pistachio pur^e per three oz. of
forcemeat.

This soup may also be prepared as a velout^.

715— POTAGE A L'AURORE

Wash one-quarter lb. of fine pearl barley in plenty of water.
Put it into a stewpan with one quart of consomm^, as much
water, a faggot comprising parsley, celery, and chervil, and set
to cook very gently for five hours. While the cooking pro-
gresses, take care to remove all the skin which forms on the
surface, in order that the cooking-liquor may remain very clear.

When the barley is well cooked, transfer it to another stew-
pan, and add to it four tablespoonfuls. of a thick and very red
tomato pur^e, strained through muslin, and two tablespoonfuls
of celery, minced in paysanne-fashion, stewed in butter, and
finally cooked in consomm^.

This excellent soup should not be made too thick.

716— POTAQE baqration qras

Cut two-thirds lb. of very white fillet of veal into large dice,
and stiffen these in butter without letting them acquire any

250 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

colour. Add one and one-quarter pints of thin velout^ with a
veal base, and set to cook very gently.

Finely pound the veal; dilute the pur^e with velout^, and
rub through tammy. Add one pint of white consommd; heat
without boiling, and complete the preparation, when dishing
up, with a leason of the yolks of three eggs diluted with four
tablespoonfuls of cream and two oz. of butter.

Garnish with thin macaroni cut into short lengths, and send
some grated cheese to the table separately.

717— POTAQE BAQRATION MAIQRE

Prepare one and one-half pints of fresh velout^, and mix
therewith one-quarter pint of mushroom velout^. (For making
this, see " Velout6 Agn^s Sorel," No. 671.)

Heat without boiling; pass through a strainer, and finish,
when about to serve, with the same leason as for ordinary
velout^, and two and one-half oz. of butter. Garnish with one
fillet of sole, poached very white, and cut into a julienne ;
twelve small quenelles of sole or whiting forcemeat finished
with crayfish butter, and six crayfishes' tails cut into small
pieces.

718— POTAQE CHOISEUL

Prepare a " pur^e Conti " (No. 640) with an excellent fumet
of game.

Garnish with two tablespoonfuls of sorrel, ciseled and cooked
in butter, and two tablespoonfuls of poached rice.

719— POTAQE COMPlfiQNE

Prepare a light " Pur^e Soissonaise " ; butter it well, and
add thereto as garnish three tablespoonfuls of ciseled sorrel
cooked in butter, and chervil pluches.

720— POTAQE DERBY

Add one-half pint of Soubis6 pur^e (No. 104) to one pint of
" Cr^me de Riz " (No. 711) flavoured with a very little curry.
Rub the whole through tammy.

Add one-half pint of white consommd, and heat without
boiling. Complete, when about to serve, with an ordinary
leason and three oz. of butter.

Garnish with twelve small quenelles of chicken forcemeat
combined with one-third of its volume of foie-gras purde, one
tablespooriful of little truffle pearls, and an equal quantity of
poached rice, each grain of which must be kept distinct and
separate.

SOUPS 251

721— POTAQE A LA DIANE

Cook one-half lb. of lentils with the usual garnish. Roast
two medium-sized partridges, keeping them slightly underdone,
and remove their fillets. Complete the cooking of the partridges
with the lentils, drained of their cooking-liquor, in one pint of
game consomm^.

Prepare a royale (No. 209) with the reserved fillets.

When the birds are cooked, bone them ; pound their meat,
and add thereto the lentils and the cooking-liquor ; rub through
tammy.

Finish the pur^e with one and one-half pints of excellent
thin game stock, and complete the soup, when dishing up, with
two oz. of butter and two tablespoonfuls of reduced Madeira.

Garnish with the royale, cut into small regular crescents,
and twelve small crescents of very black truffle.

722— POTAQE ELISA

Prepare one and one-half pints of poultry velout^, and rub
it through tammy. Complete with one-half pint of white con-
somm^ ; heat without boiling, and finish, when dishing up, with
an ordinary leason, two and one-half oz. of butter, and two
tablespoonfuls of a fondue of sorrel.

733— POTAQE FAVORI

Prepare one pint of a velout6 of green asparagus; one-half
pint of a velout^ of lettuce, and one-half pint of poultry
velout^. Put all three into a stewpan; add thereto the neces-
sary quantity of white consomm^ to bring the soup to the
correct degree of consistence; heat without boiling, and pass
through a strainer.

Finish the soup, when dishing up, with an ordinary leason
and two oz. of butter. Garnish with one tablespoonful of a
chiffonade of sorrel, and one tablespoonful of green asparagus-
heads.

724— POTAQE QERMINY

Cisel and melt in butter three oz. of shredded sorrel, and
add thereto one and one-half pints of white consomm^. A few
minutes before serving, pour into the consomm^ a leason com-
posed of the yolks of six eggs diluted with one-quarter pint
of cream ; set on the fire and stir, after the manner of an
English custard, i.e., until the preparation begins to show
signs of boiling.

Finish, away from the fire, with two and one-half oz. of
butter, and add a pinch of chervil pluches.

252 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

Remarks concerning the Possible Variation of this Soup, —
The mode of procedure adopted in the case of the Germiny
could, if necessary, be appUed to all thick soups, and it would
then constitute a class to which the term " Cream " would be
better suited than it is at present to the soups thus designated.

Instead of the ordinary white consomm^, which is used in
its preparation, a consomm6 may be used in which such vege-
tables as carrots, turnips, peas, &c., are cooked, the latter
being reserved for the garnish, while the cooking-liquor is
thickened with egg-yolks and cream in accordance with the
quantities and directions given in the above recipe.

A carrot cream, a cream of fresh peas, or of asparagus-heads,
prepared in this way, would be much more delicate than those
prepared after the ordinary recipes.

The essential point in this series of soups is the leason ; this
should consist of enough egg-yolks to render the preparations
sufficiently thick and creamy.

725— POTAQE AUX HERBES

Cut two oz. of sorrel leaves into a julienne, and stew them
in butter with one oz. of watercress leaves, one oz. of chervil
^ju£h^s, and young pimpernel. Add one anHja'ne-halt pints of
water;, the necessary salt^ three medium-sized, pe'eled, and
quartered potatoes, an J'cook gently.

Drain and reserve the cooking-liquor; crush the potatoes;
dilute the pur^e with the cooking-liquor, and rub through
tammy. Set to boil, and finish, when dishing up, with three
oz. of Printanier butter with herbs, combined with a few leaves
of sweet basil. — — —

Add a pinch of chervil pluches.

726— POTAQE JUBILEE, otherwise BALVET

Prepare, according to the directions given (No. 648), one
and one-half pints of a purde of fresh peas, and add thereto one-
half pint of consommd of "La Petite Marmite." Set to boil,
and finish with two oz. of butter.

Garnish with the vegetables from the Marmite, prepared as
for Croute au Pot.

727— POTAQE LONQCHAMPS

Refer to the derivative soups of the " Pur^e de Pois "
(No. 654).
738— POTAQE LAVALLIfiRE

Prepare one and one-half pints of " Cr^me de Volaille "
(No. 713), finished with a leason of egg-yolks and cream; also

SOUPS 253

two-thirds pint of " Cr^me de C^leri," similarly finished, and
combine the two creams.

Garnish, with twelve small profiterolles, stuffed with chicken
forcemeat, and a royale of celery in dice.

729— POTAQE MADELEINE

Prepare and combine the following purees : — One-third pint
of artichoke pur6e, one-fifth pint of haricot-bean pur^e, one-
seventh pint of Soubise pur^e. Add one pint of white con-
somm^ ; set to boil ; pass through a strainer, and finish, when
dishing up, with two oz. of butter.

Garnish with two tablespoonfuls of sago poached in one-
half pint of white consomm^.

730— POTAQE MISS BETSY

Proceed exactly as for " Potage h I'Aurore " (No. 715), but
(i) flavour potage Miss Betsy with curry; (2) substitute for the
celery peeled, cored apples cut into dice and cooked in butter,

N.B. — Both these soups (Aurore and Miss Betsy) are subject
to much variation. All that is needed is to alter the flavouring
element and the garnish. Thus the quantity of tomato may be
reduced by half, and combined with one-quarter lb. of peas and
their cooking-liquor (the peas in this case being cooked in one
pint of water with a little salt and sugar) ; or with the same
quantity of French beans, asparagus-heads, or sorrel cooked in
butter, &c.

731— POTAQE MONTESPAN

Add one-half pint of somewhat thick tapioca to one and one-
half pints of " Cr^me d'Asperges " (No. 697), prepared as
directed. Garnish with very fine peas cooked in the English
fashion.

732— POTAQE n6LUSK0

Mix one and one-half pints of rather liquid poultry velout^
with one-half pint of chicken purde. When serving, add an
ordinary leason, and finish with two and one-half oz. of hazel-
nut butter.

Garnish with very small quenelles of chicken forcemeat com-
bined with one tablespoonful of hazel-nut powder per three oz.
of the forcemeat.

733— POTAQE PETIT DUC

Take a fine woodcock; raise and reserve one of its fillets,
and roast it, taking care to keep it very underdone. Then
remove the other fillet, and with it prepare two dariole-moulds

254 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

of royale (No. 209). Finely pound what remains of the wood-
cock, and combine with the resulting pur^e one and one-half
pints of game velout6 prepared with essence of woodcock.
Cover the stewpan and place it in the bain-marie for thirty-
five minutes. Now rub the whole through tammy; heat without
boiling, and finish, when dishing up, with one and one-half
oz. of butter, one and one-half oz. of cooked foie-gras pur^e,
diluted with a few tablespoonfuls of the soup, one and one-half
tablespoonfuls of cream, and one and one-half tablespoonfuls of
burnt liqueur brandy.

Garnish with the royale cut into dice, and the reserved fillet
of woodcock, stiffened in butter at the last moment, and cut into
thin slices.

734— POTAQE REQENCE

Prepare one quart of barley cream in accordance with the
directions under No. 712. Finish it, when dishing up, with an
ordinary leason and one and one-half oz. of crayfish butter.

Garnish with twelve small, grooved quenelles of chicken
forcemeat finished with crayfish butter; one tablespoonful of
small pearl barley, well cooked; and six small cocks' combs,
freshly poached and very white.

735— POTAQE ROSSOLNIK

Prepare (i) one quart of light, poultry velout^ combined
with cucumber juice ; (2) ten pieces of parsley root and the same
quantity of celery root, turned to the shape of small, new
carrots, and split crosswise at their base; (3) twenty small
lozenges of salted cucumber.

Parboil the roots and the cucumber lozenges for fifteen
minutes, and add them to the velout^ when about to cook the
latter. Cook the whole gently for forty minutes, despumating
the velout^ the while. Finish with one and one-half tablespoon-
fuls of cucumber juice, and an ordinary leason.

Garnish with small chicken-forcemeat quenelles.

736_P0TAGE DE SANTE

Cook quickly, in salted water, three medium-sized, peeled,
and quartered potatoes. When their pulps seem soft to the
touch, drain them; rub them through a fine sieve, and dilute
the resulting pur^e with one and one-half pints of white con-
somm^. Add two tablespoonfuls of sorrel melted in butter,
and finish the preparation with an ordinary leason and one oz.
of butter.

SOUPS 255

Garnish with very thin roundels of French soup-flute and
chervil pluches.

737— POTAQE SIQURD

Prepafe one pint of " Velout^ Parmentier " and one pint of
tomato velout^. Combine the two; heat, and finish, when dish-
ing up, with two and one-half oz. of butter.

Garnish with twenty small quenelles of chicken forcemeat,
combined with one coffeespoonful of chopped capsicum, or
capsicum in dice, per three oz, of the forcemeat.

738— POTAQE SOLFERINO

Mince tlie white of two leeks, the third of a medium-sized
carrot, and half an onion, and stew the whole in one and one-
half oz. of butter. Add one-half lb. of pressed tomatoes cut
into pieces, two medium-sized, peeled potatoes, minced ; moisten
with two-thirds pint of white consomm^, and cook gently.
Crush the vegetables ; rub them through tammy ; complete the
pur^e with the necessary quantity of white consomm^; set to
boil, and finish, when dishing up, with two and one-half oz. of
butter.

Garnish with twelve little balls of potato, raised by means
of the spoon-cutter, and cooked in salted water ; two tablespoon-
fuls of French beans cut into lozenges; and some chervil
pluches,

739— POTAQE VIVIANE

Prepare one quart of " Cr^me de Volaille " (No. 713), and
finish it with the usual leason. Garnish with one tablespoonful
of artichoke-bottom, cut into dice, the same quantity of carrot
dice, both gently cooked in butter, and one tablespoonful of
trufifle dice.

740— POTAQE WINDSOR

Blanch and cool one small, boned calf's foot, and cook it
gently in a good white-wine mirepoix. Prepare one and one-
half pints of " Cr^me de Riz " (No. 711), and add thereto the
cooking-liquor of the calf's foot, strained through muslin.

Finish this cream, when about to serve, with an ordinary
leason, one and one-half tablespoonfuls of a slight infusion of
turtle-soup herbs, and one and one-half oz. of butter.

Garnish with a julienne. oi half of the calf's foot and twenty
small quenelles consisting of a pur^e of hard-boiled egg-yolks
and chicken forcemeat, these two preparations being in the pro-
portion of two-thirds and one-third respectively.

256 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

741— SOUPE AUX ABATIS DE VOLAILLE A L'ANGLAISE

Cut the necks into three, the gizzards into four, and the
pinions into two. Brown one-half lb. of these giblets in a
thick-bottomed stewpan with one oz. of butter. Sprinkle with
one tablespoonful of flour ; slightly colour the latter, and moisten
with one quart of white consomm6 and one pint of water. Add
a faggot containing one stick of celery, and set to cook gently
for three hours.

When the pieces of giblets are cooked, drain them, trim
them, and put them into a stewpan with one dessertspoonful of
parboiled rice and a heaped tablespoonful of the white of celery,
minced and fried in butter. Strain the cooking-liquor of the
giblets, through a strainer, over the enumerated garnishes;
set to cook gently for another quarter of an hour; season
strongly with pepper, and serve.

742— SOUPE AUX CERISES

Stone two-thirds lb. of small, fleshy cherries, and put twenty
aside for garnishing purposes. Put the others into a sugar-
boiler with two-thirds pint of hot water, a small strip of lemon
rind, and a fragment of cinnamon, and set to boil quickly for
eight minutes.

Also boil in another sugar-boiler one-half pint of Port or
Bordeaux wine. Crush half of the cherry-stones in the mortar;
put them into the boiled wine, and let them infuse, away from
the fire.

Rub the cooked cherries through a fine sieve; dilute the
pur6e with the juice thickened by means of one tablespoonful
of fecula moistened with cold water; add the cherries put aside
for the garnish, and one-half tablespoonful of castor sugar, and
again set to boil for four minutes.

Complete the preparation with the infusion strained through
muslin ; pour it into the soup-tureen, and add a few biscottes.

For the sake of variety, lady's-finger biscuits may be sub-
stituted for the biscottes.

743— COCKY- LEEKI SOUP

Set half a fowl to cook very gently in one and one-half pints
of light and clear veal stock with a few aromatics.

Also prepare a julienne of the white of three leeks; stew
this in butter without colouration, and complete the cooking
thereof in the cooking-liquor of the fowl, strained and poured
carefully away.

SOUPS 257

Pour the preparation into the soup-tureen, and add the meat
of the fowl, cut into a julienne.

Serve some stewed prunes separately, but this is optional.

744---SOUPE AUX FOIES DE VOLAILLE

Make a roux from one and one-half oz. of butter and as much
flour. When it has acquired a nice, light-brown colour, moisten
it with one quart of white consomm^ or brown stock, and set
to boil, stirring the while.

Add one-half lb. of raw chickens' livers rubbed through e
sieve, and set to cook for fifteen minutes. Rub the whole
through tammy ; season strongly with pepper ; heat, and com-
plete the preparation, at the last moment, with one-quarter lb.
of sliced chickens' livers, tossed in butter, and one wineglass of
good Madeira.

745— SOUPE JULIENNE DARBLAY

Cook quickly in salted water two small, peeled, and quartered
potatoes. Drain them, rub them through a fine sieve, and dilute
the pur^e with one and one-half pints of white consomm^. Add
three tablespoonfuls of a julienne made in accordance with the
above recipe; heat, and finish the preparation with an ordinary
leason and one and one-half oz. of butter.

746— MINESTRONE

Brown the minced white of two small leeks and one-third
of an onion, also minced, in one oz. of chopped, fresh breast
of bacon, and one-half oz. of grated, fat bacon. Moisten with
one and one-half pints of white consomm^, and add one-third
of a carrot, one-third of a turnip, half a stick of celery, two
oz. of small cabbage, and one small potato, or one-half of a
medium-sized one, all of which vegetables must be finely
minced.

About twenty-five minutes after the soup has started cook-
ing, complete it with two tablespoonfuls of peas, a few French
beans cut into lozenges, and one and one-half oz. of rice, or
the same quantity of very thin macaroni broken into very small
pieces.

This done, set to cook again for thirty minutes. A few
minutes tJefore serving, add to the soup one small, crushed
clove of garlic, three leaves of sweet basil, and a small pinch
of chopped chervil pluches ; mix the whole with one-half table-
spoonful of grated bacon.

Send to the table, separately, at the same time as the soup
some freshly grated Gruy^re.

S

258 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

747— MILLE-FANTI

First make the following preparation : — Beat two small eggs
to a stiff froth, and mix therewith one and one-half oz. of the
crumb of very good white bread, one oz. of grated Parmesan,
and a little nutmeg. Boil one and two-thirds pints of white
consomm^, and pour the above preparation therein, little by
little, stirring briskly the while with the whisk. Then move
the stewpan to the side of the fire, put the lid on, and set to
cook gently for seven or eight minutes.

When about to serve, stir the soup with a whisk, and pour
it into the soup-tureen.

748— MULLIGATAWNY SOUP

Cut a small fowl, or half a medium-sized one, into little
pieces, and put these in a stewpan with a few roundels of carrot
and onion, a small bunch of parsley and celery, one-half oz. of
mushroom parings and one quart of white consomm^. Set to
boil, and then let cook gently.

Also lightly brown in butter half a medium-sized onion,
chopped; besprinkle it with one dessertspoonful of fecula and
one coffeespoonful of curry ; moisten with the cooking-liquor of
the fowl, strained through a sieve; boil, and set to cook
gently for seven or eight minutes. Now rub the whole through
tammy, and leave it to despumate for twenty minutes, adding
one tablespoonful of consomm^, from time to time, with the
view of promoting the despumation, i.e., the purification of the
soup.

When about to serve, finish the preparation with three or
four tablespoonfuls of cream. Pour the whole into the soup-
tureen ; add a portion of the meat of the fowl, cut into thin
slices, and serve separately two oz. of rice k I'lndienne.

749— SOUPE AUX QOMBOS OU OKRA

This soup is held in high esteem by Americans. It is
served either with garnish, as I direct below, or as a consomm^,
hot or cold, or in cups, after it has been strained.

Fry one medium-sized chopped onion in two oz. of butter,
without letting it acquire any colour. Add one-quarter lb. of
fresh lean bacon, or raw ham cut into medium-sized dice; fry
for a few minutes, and add about one lb. of boned chicken-
meat cut into large dice (the white parts of the chicken are
used in preference) ; let these ingredients stiffen well ; take care
to stir fairly often, and moisten with two quarts of white chicken
consomm^. Boil, and set to cook gently for twenty or twenty-
five minutes with lid on.

SOUPS 259

Now add about one-half lb. of peeled gombo, cut in coarse
paysanne-fashion, and three or four medium-sized tomatoes,
peeled, concussed, and with their seeds withdrawn.

When the gombos are well cooked, carefully remove all
grease from the preparation; test the seasoning, and, if neces-
sary, add a few drops of Worcestershire sauce.

Garnish the soup with two or three tablespoonfuls of plainly-
cooked rice.

N.B. — This soup is excellent if it be finished with one-quarter
pint of cream per quart. A cream of gombos may also be pre-
pared, which may be garnished with the dice of chicken meat.
In the latter case, the garnish of rice is optional.

750— SOUPE A LA PAYSANNE

Finely mince one small carrot, one small turnip, one leek,
one-third of a stick of celery, one-third of an onion, and some
cabbage leaves. Stew the vegetables in one oz. of butter;
moisten with one and one-half pints of white consomm^, and set
to boil. A few minutes having elapsed, add two small potatoes
minced like the other vegetables, and complete the cooking
gently. Send separately some roundels of soup-flutes.

751— SOUPE AUX POIREAUX ET POMMES DE TERRE,

otherwise A LA BONNE FEMME

Finely mince the white of four medium-sized leeks. Put
this into a stewpan with one oz. of butter, and stew gently
for a quarter of an hour. Then add three medium-sized
quartered potatoes, cut into roundels the thickness of pennies.
Moisten with one pint of white consomm6; add the necessary
quantity of salt, and set to cook gently. When about to serve,
finish the soup with one pint of boiled milk and one and one-
half oz. of butter; pour it into the soup-tureen, and add twelve
roundels of French soup-flutes, cut as thinly as possible.

752— SOUPE AUX ROQNONS

Proceed exactly as for ' ' Soupe aux Foies de Volaille, ' ' but
substitute for the garnish of sliced livers one of calf's or sheep's
kidney cut into large dice, or sliced, and briskly tossed in butter
just before dishing up.

Finish the soup similarly to the preceding one, i.e., with
Madeira.

S 2

CHAPTER XIV

FISH

In matters culinary, fish comprise not only the vertebrates
of the sea and river, but also the esculent Crustacea, mollusca,
and chelonia, and one batrachian. Of course, the animals
representing these various classes differ enormously in respect
of their importance as articles of diet. Fresh-water fish, for in-
stance, with the exception of salmon and some kinds of trout,
are scarcely ever eaten in England; and the same applies to
the frog. As regards salt-water fish, although certain species,
such as the sole and the turbot, are in great demand, many
other and excellent ones which are looked upon as inferior are
seldom put into requisition by first-class cookery. Thus, Brill,
Fed Mull&t, and Bass are not nearly so popular as they de-
serve to be, and never appear on a menu of any importance.
No doubt. Fashion — ever illogical and wayward — exercises her
tyrannical sway here, as in other matters of opinion ; for it will
be found, even when the distinctions among fish are once
established, that there exist a host of incongruities in the un-
written law. Fresh cod is a case in point; should this fish
appear on the menu of a grand dinner given by Royalty, the
guests would not think it at all out of place; but if the chef
of a large modern hotel ventured to include it among the items
of a plain table-d'hote dinner he would most probably incur
the scorn and indignation of his clientele.

This example, than which none could be better suited to our
case, successfully shows that the culinary value of the fish has
far less to do with the vogue the latter enjoys than the very often
freakish whims of the public.

One can but deplore the arbitrary proscription which so
materially reduces the resources at the disposal of a cook,
more particularly at a time when the universally imperious cry
is for novelty and variety in dishes and menus respectively;
and one can only hope that reason and good sense may, at no
remote period, intervene to check the purposeless demands of
both entertainers and their guests in this respect.

FISH 261

Having regard to these considerations, I have omitted from
this work, which is really a thesaurus of selected recipes and
not a complete formulary, all those fish enumerated below,
which are very rarely eaten in England, and the recipes for
which could therefore serve no purpose : —

753 — SHADJchiefly served grilled.

754 — FRESH ANCHOVIES, extremely rare, and may be grilled
or fried.

755 — EELS, considered as common, and principally used in the
preparation of a pie held in high esteem by the frequenters of
coffee-shops along the banks of the Thames. Small eels are also
fried. ^But the many ways of dressing them which are common
on the Continent are seldom practised in England.

756 — PIKE, plentiful and of excellent quality ; only used in the
preparation of forcemeat and quenelles ; the directions for the
latter will be given later. Albeit they are sometimes served
crimped, or cooked whole in a court-bouillon au bleu, accompanied
by parsley or caper sauce, &c. Small pike are generally prepared
" a la Meuniere," or fried.

757 — CARP, in still less demand than the pike, and only prized
for its milt. It must, however, be admitted that in England, more
than anywhere else, I believe, this fish is too often spoilt by the
taint of mud.

758 — DORADO, served boiled with any of the English fish
sauces ; but, in my opinion, it is best grilled, after the manner
generally adopted in the South of France.

759 — STURGEON, very rare ; it is braised, like veal.
j5o — FERA, very scarce on the market ; comes from the Swiss
or Savoy lakes, and is only served 4 la Meuniere.

761 — GUDGEON, very abundant in all rivers, but never eaten.
762 — FROGS, the pet abomination of all classes of the popula-
tion, with but few exceptions ; nevertheless " Nymphes k I'Aurore,"
the recipe of which I gave among the hors-d'oeuvres, are generally
appreciated.

763— FRESH HERRINGS, abundant and of excellent quality ;
seldom used in first-class cookery, except, perhaps, for their milt.
Bloaters and kippered herrings are, with reason, preferred ; of
these I shall speak later.

764 — LAMPREYS, chiefly used in preparing pies similar to those
referred to in No. 755.

765— FRESH -WATER HERRINGS, like the F^ra, come from
Switzerland or Savoy, and are very scarce on the English market
Prepared especially a la Meuriiere,

262 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

766 — LOTE, very scarce on the English market ; only prized
for its liver.

767 — MOSTELE, only caught in the region of Monaco ; cannot
bear transport ; especially served k la Meuniere or a I'Anglaise.

768 — MUSSELS, only used as garnish.

769 — NONAT, replaced in England by whitebait, which it
greatly resembles.

770 — PERCH, very moderately appreciated ; chiefly served
fried, when small, and boiled with some fish sauce when large.

771 — SKATE, generally served boiled, with caper sauce ;
occasionally with brown butter. The smaller specimens are better
fried. Often offered for sale, crimped.

773 — SARDINES, generally of inferior quality ; used in the
preparation of sprats.

773^STERLET, almost unknown in England.

774 — TURTLE, with the exception of those firms which make
this their speciality, is almost exclusively used in preparing Turtle
Soup. The flippers are sometimes served braised au Mad^re.

I do not think it at all necessary to lay any further stress
upon the series of preparations bearing the names of Cro-
quettes, Cromesquis, Cotelettes (cotelettes here only mean
those prepared from cooked fish, and which are really but a
form of croquettes), Coquilles, Bouchees, Palets, &c., which
may be made from any kind of cooked fish. These prepara-
tions are so well known that it would be almost superfluous to
repeat their recipes.

775— DIVERS WAYS OF COOKING FISH

The divers ways of cooking fish are all derived from one or
another of the following methods : —

(i) Boiling in salted water, which may be applied equally
well to large pieces and slices of fish.

(2) Frying, particularly suited to small specimens and thin
slices of larger ones.

(3) Cooking in butter, otherwise " h. la Meuniere," best
suited to the same pieces as No. 2.

(4) Poaching, with short moistening, especially suited to
fillets or small specimens.

(5) Braising, used particularly for large pieces.

(6) Grilling, for small specimens and coUops.

(7) Cooking au Gratin, same as grilling.

776— THE BOILING OF FISH IN SALTED WATER

The procedure changes according as to whether the fish is
to be cooked whole or in slices. If whole, after having pro-

FISH 263

perly cleaned, washed, and trimmed it, lay it on the drainer of
the utensil best suited to its shape; i.e., a fish-kettle. Cover it
with water, salt it in the proportion of one-quarter oz. of salt
per quart of water, cover the utensil, and bring the liquid to
the boil. As soon as this is done skim and move the kettle to
the side of the fire, where the cooking of the fish may be com-
pleted without boiling.

If the fish is cut into slices, plunge these, which should
never be cut too thin, into boiling salted water, and move the
fish-kettle containing them to the side of the fire; complete
their cooking slowly without allowing the water to boil.

The object of this process is to concentrate, inside the fish,
all the juices contained in its flesh, whereof a large portion
escapes when the cut fish is plunged in cold water gradually
brought to the boil. If this method is not applied to large
fish, cooked whole, the reason is that the sudden immersion of
these in boiling water would cause such a shrinking of their
flesh that they would burst and thereby be spoiled.

In the case of certain kinds of fish, such as Turbot and
Brill, milk is added to the water in the proportion of one-eighth
of the latter, the object being to increase the whiteness of the
fish..

For the various kinds of Salmon and Trout, the court-
bouillon (No. 163) is used in the place of salted water, but the
general working process remains the same.

The boiled fish is dished on a napkin and drainer; it is
garnished with fresh parsley; and the sauce announced on the
menu, together with some plain-boiled and floury potatoes, is
sent to the table separately.

777-THE FRYING OF FISH

In Part I. of this work I explained the general theory of
frying (Chapter X., No. 26a) ; I shall now, therefore, only con-
cern myself with the details of the operation in its relation to
fish.

As a rule, frying should never be resorted to for very large
fish or very thick slices of the latter, for, owing to the very high
temperature that the operation enjoins, the outside of the fish
would be dried up before the inside had even become affected.

If the fish to be fried is somewhat thick, it is best to cut
several gashes in it, lengthwise and across, these being deeper
and closer together the thicker the fish may be. The object
of this measure is to facilitate the cooking, but the measure
itself is quite unnecessary when dealing with small fish. In

264 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

the case of flat-fish, partly detach the two underlying fillets on
either side of the back-bone instead of gashing them.

All fish intended for frying (except Blanchailles and White-
bait) should first be steeped in salted milk, then rolled in flour
before being plunged into the hot fat. If they be " panes a
I'anglaise," however, as they generally are in England, the
milk may be dispensed with, in which case, after they have
been lightly coated with flour, they are completely dipped in
an anglaise (No. 174) and afterwards rolled in white bread-
crumbs. They should then be patted with the blade of a knife
so as to ensure the cohesion of the whole coating, and, finally,
the latter should be criss-crossed with the back of a knife with
the view of improving the appearance when fried.

Fried fish are served either on a napkin, on a drainer, or on
special dish-papers. They are garnished with fried parsley and
properly trimmed half-lemons.

778— THE COOKING OF FISH A LA MEUNI6RE

This excellent mode of procedure is only suited to small
fish or the slices of larger ones. Nevertheless, it may be re-
sorted to for chicken-turbots, provided their weight do not
exceed four lbs.

The operation consists in cooking the fish (or slices or fillets
of fish) in the frying-pan with very hot butter, after having
seasoned them and sprinkled them with flour. If the fish
are very small, ordinary butter is used; if, on the other hand,
they are large, the procedure demands clarified butter. When
the fish is sufficiently coloured on one side, it is turned over for
the completion of the operation. This done, it is transferred,
by means of a spatula, to a hot dish, whereon, after having
been salted, it is sent to the table.

It may be served as it is with a garnish of trimmed half-
lemons.

Fish prepared in this way are termed " dor^s " (gilded),
"Soles dords," " Turbotins dor^s," &c., in order to distin-
guish them from those prepared a la Meuni^re.

If the fish is announced "a la Meuni^re," a few drops of
lemon should be sprinkled upon it ; it should be seasoned with
salt and pepper, and garnished with concussed, scalded pars-
ley. At the last moment a piece of butter, in proportion to the
size of the fish, is put in the frying-pan, and is heated until it
begins to brown slightly. This is poured over the fish imme-
diately, and the latter is sent to the table at once while still

FISH 265

covered by the froth resulting from the contact of the butter
with the parsley.

779— THE POACHING OF FISH

This method is best suited to sole, chicken-turbots, and brill,
as well as to the fillets of various fish.

Having laid the fish to be poached in a baking-tray or a
sautepan, either of which should have been previously but-
tered, season it moderately with salt and moisten with a little
very white fish or mushroom fumet; very often the two latter
are mixed. Cover the utensil, push it into a moderate oven,
and baste from time to time, especially when a large fish is
cooking. When the fish is done, drain it carefully, place it on
a dish, and, as a rule, reduce the poaching-liquor and add it to
the sauce. Poached fish are always served sauced; i.e.,
covered with the sauce which properly forms their accompani-
ment. More often than not they are garnished after the
manner which will be described later.

I most emphatically urge : (i) the use of very little fish fumet
for the poaching, but this fumet should be perfect and should,
above all, not be cooked for longer than the required time;
(2) that the fish be not covered with buttered paper as is often
done, for nowadays a suitable paper is very rarely found. All
papers found on the market are, owing to the chemical products
used in their manufacture, liable to impart a more or less pun-
gent smell to the objects they enclose, which in either degree
would prove seriously prejudicial to the preparation.

These remarks not only apply to fish, but to all those
objects with which paper was formerly used at some stage in
their cooking process.

780— THE BRAISING OF FISH

This method is generally applied to whole or sliced salmon,
to trout, and to chicken-turbot. Sometimes the fish treated in
this way is larded on one side with strips of bacon-fat, truffles,
gherkins, or carrots. The mode of procedure is exactly the
same as that described under the " Braising of White Meats "
(No. 248). Moisten these braisings in the proportion of one-
half with white wine or red wine (according as to how the fish
is to be served), and for the other half use a light fish fumet.
Place the fish on the drainer of a fish-kettle just large enough
to hold the former, and moisten in such wise that the cooking-
liquor at the beginning of the operation does not cover more
than three-quarters of the depth of the fish. Unless it be for

266 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

a Lenten dish, the fish may be covered with slices of bacon
while cooking. In any case, baste it often. Talie care not to
close the lid down too tightly, in order that the liquor may be
reduced simultaneously with the cooking of the fish.

When the operation is almost completed, take the lid off the
fish-kettle with the view of glazing the fish ; then take the
former off the fire. Now withdraw the drainer with the fish
upon it, and lay it athwart the top of the fish-kettle, and let it
drain ; tilt the fish on to a dish, and cover the latter pending
its despatch to the table. Strain the stock remaining in the
fish-kettle through a strainer; let it stand for ten minutes, re-
move all the grease that has formed on its surface, and use it to
complete the sauce as I directed above.

Braised fish are generally accompanied by a garnish, the
constituents of which I shall give in the particular recipes
relating to braising.

781— THE GRILLING OF FISH

This method is best suited to' small fish, to medium-sized
chicken-turbots, and to large-sectioned fish.

Unless they are very small, it is best to gash both sides of
fish intended for grilling; the reasons given above for this
measure likewise apply here.

All white and naturally dry fish should be rolled in flour
and besprinkled with butter or very good oil before being
placed on the grill to be exposed to the heat of the fire. The
flour forms a crust around the fish, which keeps it from drying
and gives it that golden colour quite peculiar to objects thus
treated.

Salmon, trout, red mullet, mackerel, and herrings, the flesh
whereof is fatty, need not be floured, but only besprinkled with
melted butter.

Owing to the somewhat fragile texture of most fish, a special
double gridiron is used, by means of which they may be turned
without fear of damage. This gridiron is placed upon the
ordinary grill. I have already given in Part I. of this work
the radical principles of grilling (No. 257); to this, therefore,
the reader is begged to refer.

Grilled fish are served on a very hot dish, without paper or
a napkin; they are garnished with fresh parsley and grooved
slices of lemon.

Butter k la Maitre d'Hotel, anchovy butter, devilled sauce,
Roberts' sauce Escoffier, and butter k la Ravigote constitute
the best adjuncts to grilled fish.

FISH 267

782— THE COOKING OF FISH AU QRATIN

I described all the details of this method under Complete
Gratin (No. 269), to which I must ask the reader to refer. This
process is best suited to small fish, such as sole, whiting, red
mullet, chicken-turbot, &c.

783— THE CRIMPING OF FISH

Crimped fish is quite an English speciality. This method
of preparation is applied more particularly to salmon, fresh
cod, haddock, and skate. The first three of these fish may be
prepared whole or in slices, while skate is always cut into more
or less large pieces after it has been skinned on both sides.

In order to crimp a whole fish, it should be taken as it leaves
the water. Lay it on something flat, and make deep lateral
gashes on both its sides from head to tail. Allow a space of
about one and one-half inches to two inches between each gash.
This done, put the fish to soak in very cold water for an hour or
so. When the fish is to be cooked sliced, divide it up as soon
as it is caught, and put the slices to soak in very cold water, as
in the case of the whole fish.

But does this barbarous method, which stiffens and contracts
the flesh of the fish, affect its quality so materially as con-
noisseurs would have us believe ?

It is very difficult to say, and opinions on the matter are
divided. This, however, is certain, that fish prepared in the
way above described is greatly relished by many.

Whether whole or sliced, crimped fish is always boiled in
salted water. Its cooking presents a real difficulty, in that it
must be stopped at the precise moment when it is completed,
any delay in this respect proving prejudicial to the quality of
the dish.

Crimped fish is served like the boiled kind, and all the
sauces suited to the latter likewise obtain with the former.
Besides the selected sauce, send a sauceboat to the table con-
taining some of the cooking-liquor of the fish.

SALMON (SAUMON)

Salmon caught on the Rhine, or Dutch salmon, is generally
considered the most delicate that may be had, though, in my
opinion, ihat obtained from certain English rivers, such, for
instance, as the Severn, is by no means inferior to the fore-
going. Here in England this excellent fish is held in the high
esteem it deserves, and the quantity consumed in this country
is considerable. It is served as plainly as possible, either

268 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

boiled, cold or hot, grilled, or k la Meuni^re; but whatever be
the method of preparation, it is always accompanied by cucum-
ber salad.

The slices of salmon, however, thick or thin, large or small,
take the name of " Darnes."

784— BOILED SALMON

Boiled salmon, whether whole or sliced, should be cooked
in court-bouillon in accordance with directions given at the be-
ginning of the chapter (No. 776). All fish sauces are suited
to it, but more especially the following, viz. : — Hollandaise
sauce, Mousseline sauce, Melted butter. Shrimp sauce, Nantua
sauce. Cardinal sauce, &c.

Crimped salmon admits of precisely the same sauces.

78s— BROILED SALMON

Cut the salmon to be grilled in slices from one inch to one
and one-half inches thick. Season with table-salt, sprinkle
with melted butter or oil, and grill it for the first part on a
rather brisk fire, taking care to moderate the latter towards the
close of the operation. Allow about twenty-five minutes for
the grilling of a slice of salmon one and one-half inches thick.
Butter a la Maitre d'Hotel, anchovy butter, and devilled sauce
Escoffier are the most usual adjuncts to grilled salmon.

786— SAUMON A LA MEUNI6RE

Having cut the salmon into moderately thick slices, season
these, dredge them slightly, and cook them in the frying-pan
with very hot clarified butter.

It is important that the salmon be set and that the cooking
be rapid.

Serve it in either of the two ways indicated above (No. 778).

Various Ways of Preparing Salmon

In addition to the three methods of serving salmon described
above, and those cold preparations with which I shall deal
later, the fish in question lends itself to a whole host of dress-
ings which are of the greatest utility in the varying of menus.
The principles of these dressings I shall now give.

787— CADQEREE OF SALMON

Prepare one lb. of cooked salmon, cleared of bones and
§kin, and cut into small pieces; four hard-boiled eggs cut into

FISH 269

dice; one lb. of well-cooked pilaff rice; and three-quarters pint
of Bechamel flavoured with curry.

Dish in a hot timbale, alternating the various products, and
finish with a coating of sauce.

788-COTELETTES DE SAUMON

Prepare some mousseline forcemeat for salmon, the quantity
whereof will be in accordance with the number of cutlets to
be made, and rub it through a coarse sieve. Line the bottom
and sides of some buttered tin moulds, shaped like cutlets, with
a coating one-half inch thick of the prepared forcemeat.

Fill the moulds to within one-third inch of their brims with
a cold salpicon of mushrooms and truffles, thickened by means
of reduced Allemande sauce, and cover this with the stuffing.

Set the cutlets to poach, turn out the moulds; treat the
cutlets a I'anglaise, and cook them with clarified butter.

Arrange in a circle round a dish, put a frill on a piece of
fried bread counterfeiting the bone of the cutlet, garnish with
fried parsley, and send to the table, separately, a " Dieppoise "
sauce. Shrimp sauce, or a pur^e of fresh vegetables, such as
peas, carrots, &c. In the latter case, serve at the same time
a sauce in keeping with the garnish.

789— COULIBIAC DE SAUMON

Preparation. — Have ready two lbs. of ordinary brioche paste
without sugar (No. 2368). Stiffen in butter one and one-half
lbs. of small salmon collops, and prepare one-sixth lb. of mush-
rooms and one chopped onion (both of which should be fried
in butter), one-half lb. of semolina kache (No. 2292) or the
same weight of rice cooked in consomm^; two hard-boiled eggs,
chopped; and one lb. of vesiga, roughly chopped and cooked
in consomm^.

For this weight of cooked vesiga about two and one-half oz.
of dried vesiga will be needed, which should be soaked for at
least four hours in cold water, and then cooked for three and
one-half hours in white consomm^. It may also be cooked in
water.

Roll the brioche paste into rectangles twelve inches long
by eight inches wide, and spread thereon in successive layers
the kache or the rice, the collops of salmon, the chopped
vesiga, the eggs, the mushrooms, and the onion, and finish with
a layer of kache or rice. Moisten the edges of the paste and
draw the longest ends of it towards each other over the enu-

270 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

merated layers of garnish, and join them so as to properly en-
close the latter.

Now fold the two remaining ends over to the centre in a
similar way. Place the coulibiac thus formed on a baking-
tray, and take care to turn it over in order that the joining
parts of the paste lie underneath.

Set the paste to rise for twenty-five minutes, sprinkle some
melted butter over the coulibiac, sprinkle with some very fine
raspings, make a slit in the top for the escape of vapour, and
bake in a moderate oven for forty-five or fifty minutes. Fill
the coulibiac with freshly-melted butter when withdrawing it
from the oven.

Darnes de Saumon

The few recipes dealing with " Darnes de Saumon," which
I give below, may also be adapted to whole salmon after the
size of the fish has been taken into account in measuring the
time allowed for cooking.

790— DARNE DE SAUMON A CHAMBORD

As already explained, the term " darne " stands for a piece
of salmon cut from the middle of that fish, and the size of a
darne is in proportion to the number of people it is intended
for.

Proceed after the manner directed under " The Braising of
Fish " (No. 780); moisten in the proportion of two-thirds with
excellent red wine and one-third with fish stock, calculating the
quantity in such wise that it may cover no more than two-thirds
of the depth of the darne. Bring to the boil, then set to braise
gently, and glaze the darne at the last moment.

Garnish and Sauce. — Garnish with quenelles of truffled
mousseline forcemeat for fish, moulded by means of a spoon ;
two large ornamented quenelles; truffles fashioned like olives;
pieces of milt dipped in Villeroy sauce, treated a I'anglaise and
fried when about to dish up; small gudgeon or smelts treated
similarly to the milt, and trussed crayfish cooked in court-
bouillon.

The sauce is a Genevoise, made from the reduced cooking-
liquor of the darne.

Dishing Up. — Surround the darne by the garnishes enu-
merated, arranging them tastefully, and pierce it with two
hatelets, each garnished with a small truffle, an ornamented
quenelle, and a crayfish.

Send the sauce to the table separately.

FISH 271

791— DARNE DE SAUMON A DAUMONT

Poach the dame in a court-bouillon prepared beforehand.

Dishing Up and Garnish. — Surround the darne by medium-
sized mushrooms stewed in butter and garnished with small
crayfish tails cohered by means of a few tablespoonfuls of
Nantua sauce; small round quenelles of mousseline forcemeat
for fish, decorated with truffles, and some slices of milt treated
a I'anglaise, and fried when about to dish up.

Serve the Nantua sauce separately.

792— DARNE DE SAUMON A LUCULLUS

Skin one side of the darne, lard it with truffles, and braise
it in champagne.

The Garnish Round the Darne. — Very small garnished
patties of crayfish tails ; small cassolettes of milt ; small mousse-
lines of oysters, poached in dariole-moulds .

Sauce. — The braising-liquor of the darne finished by means
of ordinary and crayfish butter in equal quantities. Send it to
the table separately.

793— DARNE DE SAUMON A NESSELRODE

Remove the spine and all other internal bones. Stuff the
darne with raw lobster mousse stiffened by means of a little
pike forcemeat.

Line a well-buttered, round and even raised-pie mould with
a thin layer of hot-water, raised-pie paste (this is made from one
lb. of flour, four oz. of lard, one egg, and a little lukewarm
water), which should be prepared in advance and made some-
what stiff. Now garnish the inside of the pie with thin slices
of bacon and place the darne upright in it. (To simplify the
operation the darne may be stuffed at this stage.) Cover the pie
with a' layer of the same paste, pinch its edges with those of the
original lining, make a slit in the top for the steam to escape,
and cook in a good oven.

When the pie is almost baked, prod it repeatedly with a
larding-needle ; when the latter is withdrawn clear of all stuffing
the pie should be taken from the oven. This done, turn it up-
side down in order to drain away the melted bacon and other
liquids inside it, but do not let it drop from the mould. Then
tilt it on to a dish and take off the mould. Do not break the
crust except at the dining-table.

5aMce .-^Serve an American sauce with the pie, the former
being prepared from the remains of the lobsters used in making
the mousse, finished with cream, and garnished with very fine
oysters (cleared of their beards), poached when about to dish up.

in GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

794— DARNE DE SAUMON R^QfiNCE

Braise the dame in white wine in accordance with the?
directions given in No. 780.

Garnish. — Surround the darne by spoon-moulded quenelles
of whiting forcemeat prepared with crayfish butter, oysters
cleared of their beards and poached, small, very white mush-
rooms, and poached slices of milt.

Normande sauce finished with truffle essence,

795— DARNE DE SAUMON A ROYALE

Braise the darne in Sauterne wine.

Garnish. — Bunches of crayfishes' tails, small quenelles of
mousseline forcemeat for fish, small mushrooms, slices of truffle,
and little balls of potato raised by means of the large, round
spoon-cutter, and cooked a I'anglaise.

Send a Normande sauce separately.

796— DARNE DE SAUMON A VALOIS

Poach the darne in a white wine court-bouillon.

Garnish. — Potato balls raised with the spoon-cutter or turned
to the shape of olives, and cooked in salted water, poached
slices of milt, and trussed crayfish cooked in court-bouillon.

Send a Valois sauce separately.

797— MOUSSELINE DE SAUMON

In Part I. I dealt with the preparation of mousseline force-
meat (No. 195), and also the method of poaching spoon-moulded
quenelles (No. 205). Now mousselines are only large quenelles
which derive their name from the very light forcemeat of which
they are composed. These mousseline quenelles are always
moulded with the ordinary tablespoon, they are garnished on
top with a fine, raw slice of the fish under treatment, and
poached after the manner already described.

798— MOUSSELINE ALEXANDRA

Having made the salmon mousseline forcemeat, mould tha
quenelles and place them, one by one, in a buttered saut^pan.
Place a small, round and very thin slice of salmon on each, and
poach them in a very moderate oven with lid on the utensil con-
taining them.

Drain on a piece of linen, arrange them in a circle on a dish,
place a slice of truffle upon each slice of salmon, coat with
Mornay sauce, and glaze.

Garnish the centre of the dish with very small peas or
asparagus-heads cohered with butter just before dishing up.

FISH 273

799— MOUSSELINE DE SAUMON A LA TOSCA

Combine one and one-half oz. of crayfish cream-cullis with
each pound of the salmon mousseline forcemeat. Mould and
poach as above, drain, and arrange in a circle on a dish.

Garnish each mousseline with a thin slice of milt cooked in
lightly-browned butter, four crayfish tails cut lengthwise into
two, and a slice of truffle at each end. Coat with a light Mor-
nay sauce, finished with crayfish butter, and glaze quickly.

N.B. — In addition to these two recipes, all the garnishes
suitable for fillets of sole may be applied to mousselines.
Garnishes of early-season vegetable purees also suit them admir-
ably, and therein lies an almost inexhaustible source of variety.

800-COLD SALMON

When salmon is to be served cold it should, as far as pos-
sible, be cooked, either whole or in large pieces, in the court-
bouillon given under No. 163 and cooled in the latter. Pieces
cooked separately may seem better or may be more easily made
to look sightly, but their meat is drier than that of the salmon
cooked whole. And what is lost in appearance with the very
large pieces is more than compensated for by their extra
quality.

In dishing cold salmon the skin may be removed and the
fillets bared, so that the fish may be more easily decorated, but
the real gourmet will always prefer the salmon served in its
natural silver vestment.

In decorating cold salmon use pieces of cucumber, anchovy
fillets, capers, slices of tomato, curled-leaf parsley, &c.

I am not partial to the decorating of salmon with softened
butter, coloured or not, laid on by means of the piping-bag.
Apart from the fact that this method of decoration is rarely
artistic, the butter used combines badly with the cold sauces
and the meat of the salmon on the diner's plate. Very green
tarragon leaves, chervil, lobster coral, &c., afford a more
natural and more delicate means of ornamentation. The only
butter fit to be served with cold salmon is Montpellier butter
(No. 153), though this, in fact, is but a cold sauce often re-
sorted to for the coating of the cold fish in question.

Among the garnishes which suit cold salmon, I might men-
tion small peeled, and emptied tomatoes garnished with some
kind of salad; hard-boiled eggs, either wholly stuffed, or stuffed
in halves or in quarters, barquettes, tartlets and cassolettes
made from cucumber or beetroot, parboiled until almost com-
pletely cooked and garnished with a pur^e of tunny, of sar-

T

274 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

dines, of anchovies, &c. ; small aspics of shrimps or of cray-
fishes' tails; small slices of lobster, &c.

Almost all the cold sauces may accompany cold salmon.

8oi— SAUMON FROID, OU DARNE DE SAUMON FROID
A LA ROYALE

Having drained and dried the salmon or the darne, remove
the skin from one of its sides, and coat the bared fillets with
a layer of a preparation of mousse de saumon, letting it lie
rather more thickly over the middle than the sides. Coat the
layer of mousse with mayonnaise sauce thickened by means of
fish jelly, and leave to set.

Now let some clear fish jelly set on the bottom of the dish to
be sent to the table ; place the salmon or the darne on this jelly,
and surround the piece with a border consisting of Montpellier
butter, using for the purpose a piping-bag fitted with a grooved
pipe.

Decorate the centre of the piece by means of a fine fleur-de-
lys made from trufHes, and encircle it with two royale crowns
made from anchovy fillets.

802— SAUMON FROID OU DARNE DE SAUMON
A LA PARISIENNE

Remove the skin in suchwise as to leave the bared portion
in the shape of a regular rectangle, equidistant from the tail and
the head; or, in the case of a darne, occupying two-thirds of
its surface.

Cover the bared portion with mayonnaise sauce thickened
with fish jelly and leave it to set.

Now stand the piece on a small cushion of rice or semolina,
shaping the latter like the piece itself ; trim the sauced rectangle
with a border of Montpellier butter, laid on by means of a
piping-bag fitted with a small grooved pipe. Garnish the centre
of the rectangle with pieces of lobster coral, the chopped, hard-
boiled white and yolk of an egg, chervil leaves, &c.

Encircle the piece with a border of small artichoke-bottoms,
garnished, in the form of a dome, with a small macedoine of
vegetables cohered with cleared mayonnaise.

Send a mayonnaise sauce to the table separatel}'^.

803— SAUMON FROID OU DARNE DE SAUMON FROID
A LA RIGA

Prepare a salmon or a darne as in the preceding recipe, and
dish it on a cushion in order that it may be slightly raised.

FISH 275

Surround it with grooved sections of cucumber hollowed to
represent small timbales, well parboiled, marinaded with a few-
drops of oil and lemon-juice and filled with a vegetable salad
thickened with mayonnaise; indented, halved eggs filled with
caviare; and tartlets of vegetable salad cohered with mayon-
naise, and garnished, each with a crayfish-shell stuffed with
crayfish mousse; alternate these various garnishes, and encircle
with a border of jelly dice.

804— SAUMON FROID, OU DARNE DE SAUMON FROID

EN BELLE-VUE

Skin the salmon or the darne, set the piece upright upon
the belly side, and decorate the fillets with pieces of truffles,
poached white of egg, chervil leaves, and tarragon, &c.

Coat the garnish with a little melted fish aspic so as to fix it.

This done, sprinkle the piece, again and again, with the
same melted aspic jelly in order to cover it with a kind of trans-
parent veil.

Place the piece thus prepared in a crystal receptacle
similarly shaped to the fish, and fill the former to the brim with
very clear, melted jelly.

When dishing up, incrust the receptable containing the fish
in a block of clean ice which, in its turn, is laid on the dish to
be sent to the table. Another way is to place the crystal utensil
direct upon the dish and to surround the former with broken
ice.

80s— SAUMON FROID, OU DARNE DE SAUMON FROID

AU CHAMBERTIN

Poach the salmon or the darne in a court-bouillon consist-
ing of very clear fish fumet and Chambertin wine, in equal
quantities, and leave to cool. Prepare an aspic jelly from the
court-bouillon.

Skin and decorate the salmon or the darne and glaze it with
white aspic jelly, exactly as directed above, in the case of the
Belle- vue.

Dish in the same way, in a crystal receptacle, and fill the
latter with the prepared aspic jelly. Serve on a block of ice, or
with broken ice around the utensil.

806-SAUMON FROID, OU DARNE DE SAUMON FROID

A LA NORVEQIENNE

Skin and decorate the salmon or the darne, and glaze it with
white aspic jelly precisely as in No. 804.

Let a coating of very clear jelly set on the bottom of the

T 2

276 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

dish to be sent to the table. Upon this aspic jelly lay a cushion
the same shape as the fish, of semolina, or of carved rice.

Set the piece (salmon or darne), decorated and glazed, upon
this cushion, and lay thereon a row of fine prawns, cleared of
their abdominal shell.

Surround with a garnish of small cucumber timbales, well
parboiled, marinaded, and garnished dome-fashion, with a
pur^e of smoked salmon ; halved, hard-boiled eggs, glazed with
aspic ; very small tomatoes, or halved medium-sized ones,
peeled, pressed in the corner of a towel to return them to their
original shape, stuck with a bit of parsley-stalk, and decorated
with leaves of green butter moulded by means of the piping-
bag; and small barquettes of cooked and marinaded beetroot,
garnished with shrimps' tails cohered with mayonnaise.

Send a Russe sauce separately.

807— COTELETTES FROIDES DE SAUMON

Liberally butter some tin cutlet-shaped moulds. Line their
bottoms and sides with a very red slice of salmon, as thin as a
piece of cardboard. This slice should be long enough to project
outside the brim of the mould to the extent of one-half inch.

Garnish the insides of the moulds with well-seasoned salmon
meat, and draw the projecting lengths of salmon across this
meat so as to enclose the latter and finish off the cutlets.

Arrange the moulds on a baking-tray; poach the cutlets,
dry, in a moderate oven ; turn them out of their moulds on to
another tray as soon as they are poached, and let them cool.
Then coat them with a half-melted aspic, and decorate them
according to fancy, either with very green peas or a leaf of
chervil with a bit of lobster coral in its centre — in a word, some-
thing simple and neat.

These cutlets, which are generally served at ball-suppers,
may be dished on a tazza, on a cushion of rice, semolina, corn-
flour, or stearine, and laid almost vertically against a pyramid
of vegetable salad cohered by means of mayonnaise with
aspic. In this case the dish is finished ofif with a hatelet stuck
into the middle of the pyramid.

The cutlets may also be arranged in a circle on a flat, shal-
low, silver or crystal dish, and covered with a delicate cold
melted jelly.

Whatever be the selected method of dishing, always send
to the table with the cutlet a sauceboat of cold sauce.
808— M^DAILLONS DE SAUMON

These medallions have the same purpose as the cutlets
already described, and are prepared thus: —

FISH 277

Cut some small slices, one-third inch thick, from a fillet of
salmon.

Arrange them on a buttered tray; poach them, dry, in a
moderate oven, and cool them under a light weight.

Now trim them neatly, with an even cutter, oval or round,
in accordance with the shape they are intended to have.

Coat them, according to their purpose, either with mayon-
naise sauce or one of its derivatives, thickened with jelly, or a
white, pink, or green chaud-froid sauce. Decorate it in any
way that may be fancied, and glaze them with cold melted aspic
jelly.

Dish after the manner described under " Cotelettes " (see

above).

809— MAYONNAISE DE SAUMON

Garnish the bottom of a salad-bowl with moderately
seasoned, ciseled lettuce. Cover with cold, cooked and flaked
salmon, thoroughly cleared of all skin and bones.

Coat with mayonnaise sauce, and decorate with anchovy
fillets, capers, stoned olives, small slices or roundels or quarters
of hard-boiled eggs, small hearts of lettuce, a border of little
roundels of radish, &c.

810— SALADE DE SAUMON

This preparation comprises the same ingredients as the
above, with the exception of the mayonnaise sauce. The de-
corating garnish is placed directly upon the salmon, and the
whole is seasoned in precisely the same way as an ordinary
salad.

TROUT.

From the culinary standpoint, trout are divided into two
quite distinct classes, viz., large trout, whereof the typical
specimen is Salmon-trout, and small or fresh-water trout.

811— TRUITE SAUMONEE (Salmon Trout)

In its many preparations, salmon-trout may be replaced
by salmon, and all the recipes relating to the former may be
adapted to the latter.

In any case, however, as its size is less than that of salmon,
it is very rarely cut into darnes, being more generally served
whole.

The few recipes that follow are proper to salmon-trout.

812— TRUITE A LA CAMBAC^RES

Select a male trout in preference; clean it, and remove its
gills without opening it in th? region of the belly.

278 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

Skin it on one side, starting at a distance of one inch from
the head and finishing within two and one-half inches of the
root of the tail.

Lard the bared portions with trufHes and the red part only
of carrots cut into rods.

This done, spread out a napkin, lay the trout thereon, belly
under, and, with a sharp knife, separate the two fillets from
the bones, beginning in the region of the head and proceeding
straight down to where the body converges towards the
tail.

The spine being thus liberated, sever it at both ends; i.e.,
from the tail and the head, and withdraw it, together with all
the adhering ventral bones. The intestines are then removed, the
inside of the fish is well cleaned, the fillets are seasoned on their
insides, and the trout is stuffed with a mousseline forcemeat of
raw crayfish. The two fillets are drawn together, and the trout,
thus reconstructed, is covered with thin slices of bacon and laid
on the drainer of the fish-kettle and braised in Sauterne wine.

When the fish is done, remove the slices of bacon, glaze it,
and dish it up. Surround it with alternate heaps of morels
tossed in butter and milt k la Meuni^re.

Send to the table, separately, a fine Bechamel sauce, com-
bined with the braising-liquor of the trout, strained and re-
duced, and finished with crayfish butter.

813— TRUITES SAUMONEES FROIDES

We are now concerned with a whole series of unpublished
" Trout " preparations, which are at once of superfine delicacy
and agreeable aspect, and which admit of clean and easy
dishing.

Cook a trout weighing from two to three lbs. in court-
bouillon, and let it cool in the latter. Then drain it; sever
the head and tail from the body, and put them aside. Com-
pletely skin the whole fish, and carefully separate the two fillets
from the bones.

Deck each fillet with tarragon and chervil leaves, lobster
coral, poached white of eggs, &c., and set them, back to back,
upon a mousse of tomatoes lying in a special, long white or
coloured porcelain dish about one and one-half to two inches
deep.

Replace the head and tail, and cover the whole with a coat-
ing of half-melted, succulent fish aspic, somewhat clear. Let
the aspic set, and incrust the dish containing the trout in a
block of ice, or surround it with the latter broken.

FISH 279

814— PREPARATION DE LA MOUSSE DE TOM AXES

This mousse, like those which I shall give later, is really a
bavarois without sugar. Its recipe is exactly the same as that
of the " bavarois of fruit," except with regard to the question
of sugar.

Cook one-half lb. of tomato pulp (cleared of skin and seeds,
and roughly chopped) in one oz. of butter. When the pulp
has thoroughly mingled with the butter, add thereto two table-
spoonfuls of velout^ thickened by means of eight leaves of
gelatine per quart of the sauce.

Rub through tammy, and add to the preparation, when
almost cold, half of its volume of barely-whipped cream. Taste
the mousse ; season with a few drops of lemon juice, and if it
still seems flat, add the necessary salt and a very little cayenne.

N.B. — It will be seen that I prescribe cream only half-
whipped. This precaution, however, does not apply to
"Mousse de Tomates " alone, but to all mousses. Well-
whipped cream imparts a dry and woolly taste to them, whereas,
when it is only half-whipped, it renders them unctuous and
fresh to the palate.

From the point of view of delicacy, the respective results of
the two methods do not bear comparison.

815— OTHER PREPARATIONS OF TROUT
after the same recipe

By proceeding exactly as directed in the foregoing recipe,
and by substituting one of the following m,ousses for the
"Mousse de Tomates," it will be found that considerable
variety may be introduced into menus : —

1. Crayfish Mousse with fillets of trout, decked with crayfish
tails and tarragon leaves.

2. Lobster Mousse with fillets of trout, decked with slices of
lobster, coral, and chervil.

3. Shrimp Mousse with fillets of trout, decked with crayfish
tails and capers.

4. Capsicum Mousse with fillets of trout, decked with strips
of grilled capsicum.

5. Physalia Mousse with fillets of trout, decked with chervil,
tarragon, and bunches of physalia around the fillets.

6. Green Pimentos Mousse with fillets of trout, decked with
strips of green pimentos.

7. Early-season Herb Mousse with fillets of trout, decked
with chopped, hard-boiled eggs, and chopped parsley.

8. Volnay Mousse with fillets of trout, decked with anchovy
fillets, capers, and olives.

28o GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

9. Chambertin Mousse with fillets of trout decked like No. 8.

N.B. — In the making of "Mousse au Vol nay " and " au
Chambertin " the base of the preparations is supplied by cleared
velout6, to which is added the reduced cooking-liquor of the
trout.

All these recipes are equally suitable for sole or chicken-
turbot.

815a— ONDINES AUX CREVETTES ROSES

Prepare a very delicate trout mousse, mould it in egg-moulds,
and garnish the centre with trimmed prawns' tails. Let the
mousse set; then speedily turn the undines out of their moulds,
and lay them in a deep entree-dish. Between each of them lay
a few prawns, the tails of which should be shelled. Cover
the whole, little by little, with some excellent, half-melted jelly ;
here and there add a few sprigs of chervil, and then fill up
the dish with jelly, so as to completely cover the mousses.

816— FRESH-WATER TROUT

The best are those procured in mountainous districts, where
the clear water they inhabit is constantly refreshed by strong
currents.

The two leading methods of preparing them are called, re-
spectively, " Au bleu " and " k la Meuni^re." Having already
described the latter, I shall now give my attention to " Truite
au bleu."

This preparation is held in very high esteem in Switzerland
and Germany, where fresh-water trout are not only plentiful, but
of excellent quality.

817— TRUITES AU BLEU

The essential condition for this dish consists in having live
trout. Prepare a court-bouillon with plenty of vinegar (No.
163), and keep it boiling in a rather shallow basin.

About ten minutes before dishing them, take the trout out
of water; stun them by a blow on the head; empty and clean
them very quickly, and plunge them into the boiling liquid,
where they will immediately shrivel, while their skin will break
in all directions.

A few minutes will suffice to cook trout the average weight
of which is one-third lb.

Drain them and dish them immediately upon a napkin, with
curled-leaf parsley all round. Serve them with a HoUandaise
sauce or melted butter.

FISH 281

N.B. — Fresh-water trout may also be served fried or grilled,
but neither of these methods of preparation suits them so well
as " ^ la Meuni^re " or " au bleu," which I have given.

SOLES.

Sole may be served whole or filleted, and a large number
of the recipes given for the whole fish may be adapted to its
fillets.

As a rule, the fillets are made to appear on the menu of a
dinner owing to the fact that they dish more elegantly and are
more easily served than the whole fish, the latter being generally
served at luncheons.

Nevertheless, in cases where great ceremony is not observed
at a dinner, soles may well be served whole, inasmuch as no
hard-and-fast rule has ever obtained in this matter.

818— SOLE ALICE

This sole is prepared, or rather its preparation is com-
pleted, at tlie table.

Have an excellent fish fumet (No. 11), short and very white.
Trim the sole ; put it into a special, deep earthenware dish, the
bottom of which should be buttered ; pour the fumet over it and
poach gently.

Now send it to the table with a plate containing separate
heaps of one finely-chopped onion, a little powdered thyme, and
three finely-crushed biscottes.

In the dining-room the waiter places the dish on a chafer,
and, taking off the sole, he raises the fillets therefrom, and
places them between two hot plates. He then adds to the
cooking-liquor of the sole the chopped onion, which he leaves
to cook for a few moments, the powdered thyme and a sufficient
quantity of the biscotte raspings to allow of thickening the
whole.

At the last minute he adds six raw oysters and one oz. of
butter divided into small pieces.

As soon as the oysters are stiff, he returns the fillets of sole
to the dish, besprinkles them copiously with the sauce, and then
serves them very hot.

N.B. — In order to promote the poaching of the soles, more
particularly when they are large, the fillets on the upper side
of the fish should be slightly separated from the bones. By this
means the heat is able to reach the inside of the fish very
quickly, and the operation is accelerated.

2 82 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

The sole is always laid on the dish with its opened side
undermost — that is to say, on its back.

8 1 9— SOLE MORN AY

Lay the sole on a buttered dish ; sprinkle a little fish fumet
over it, and add one-half oz. of butter divided into small pieces.
Poach gently.

Coat the bottom of the dish on which the sole is to be served
with Mornay sauce ; drain the fish, lay it on the prepared dish ;
cover it with the same sauce; sprinkle with grated Gruy^re
and Parmesan, and glaze at a Salamander.

820— SOLE MORNAY DES PROVEN9AUX

This sole, which used to be served at the famous restaurant
of the " Fr^res Proven9aux," was prepared, and always may be
prepared, as follows : —

Poach the sole in fish fumet and butter, as directed in the
preceding recipe ; drain it, and place it on a dish ; cover it with
white-wine sauce; sprinkle liberally with grated cheese, and
glaze quickly.

831— SOLE AU CHAMPAGNE

Poach the sole in a buttered dish with one-half pint of
champagne. Dish it; reduce its cooking-liquor to half; add
thereto one-sixth pint of veloutd, and complete with one and
one-half oz. of best butter.

Cover the sole with this sauce; glaze, and garnish each side
of the dish with a little heap of a julienne of filleted sole,
seasoned, dredged, and tossed in clarified butter at the last
moment in order to have it very crisp.

N.B. — By substituting a good white wine for the champagne,
a variety of dishes may be made, among which may be men-
tioned : Sofes au Chablis, Soles au Sauterne, Sole au Samos,
Sole au Chateau Yquem, &c., &c.

822— SOLE COLBERT

On the upper side of the fish separate the fillets from the
spine, and break the latter in several places. Dip the sole in
milk ; roll it in flour ; treat it a I'anglaise, and roll the separated
fillets back a little, so that they may be quite free from the
bones.

Fry ; drain on a piece of linen ; remove the bones, and fill
the resulting space with butter a la Maitre d'H&tel.

Serve the sole on a very hot dish.

FISH 283

823— SOLE A LA DAUMONT

Bone the sole; i.e., sever the spine near the tail and the
head; remove it, and leave those portions of the fillets which
He on the remaining extremities of it intact. Garnish the inside
with whiting forcemeat finished with crayfish butter, and re-
arrange the fillets in such wise as to give a natural and un-
touched appearance to the fish. Poach it on a buttered dish
with one-sixth pint of white wine, the same quantity of the
cooking-liquor of mushrooms, and one oz. of butter cut into
small lumps.

Drain and dish the sole, and cover it with Nantua sauce.
Place around it four mushrooms stewed in butter and garnished
with crayfish tails in Nantua sauce; four small, round quenelles
of whiting forcemeat with cream, decked with truflBes ; and four
slices of milt treated d I'anglaise and fried at the last moment.

824— SOLE DOREE

As I explained under " Fish k la Meuni^re " (No. 778),
" Sole Dor^e " is a sole fried in clarified butter, dished dry, and
garnished with slices of carefully peeled lemon.

825— SOLE DUQL^RE

All fish treated after this recipe, with the exception of soles,
should be divided up.

Put the sole in a buttered dish with one and one-half oz. of
chopped onion, one-half lb. of peeled and concussed tomatoes,
a little roughly-chopped parsley, a pinch of table salt, a very
little pepper, and one-eighth pint of white wine. Set to poach
gently, and then dish the sole.

Reduce the cooking-liquor; thicken it with two tablespoon-
fuls of fish velout^ ; complete with one oz. of butter and a few
drops of lemon juice, and cover the fish with this sauce.

826— SOLE GRILLEE

Season the sole ; sprinkle oil thereon, and grill the fish very
gently. Send it, garnished with slices of lemon, on a very hot
dish.

827— SOLE QRILLEE, AUX HUITRES A L'AM^RICAINE

This sole may be either grilled or poached, almost dry, in
butter and lemon juice. With the procedure remaining the
same, it may also be prepared in fillets. Whatever be the
mode of procedure, serve it on a very hot dish, and surround

284 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

it at the last moment with six oysters poached in a little boiling
Worcestershire sauce.

Cover the sole immediately with very hot fried bread-crumbs,
and add thereto a pinch of chopped parsley.

828— SOLE A LA FERMlfeRE

Put the sole, seasoned, on a buttered dish with a few aro-
matics. Add one-third pint of excellent red wine, and poach
gently with lid on.

Dish up; strain the cooking-liquor, and reduce it to half;
thicken it with a lump of manied butter the size of a hazel-nut,
and finish the sauce with one oz. of butter.

Encircle the sole with a border of mushrooms sliced raw
and tossed in butter. Pour the prepared sauce over the sole,
and set to glaze quickly.

829— SOLE A LA HOLLANDAISE

Break the spine of the sole by folding it over in several
places. Put the fish in a deep dish ; cover it with slightly salted
water; set to boil, and then poach gently for ten minutes with
lid on.

Drain and dish on a napkin with very green parsley all
round. Serve at the same time some plainly boiled potatoes,
freshly done, and two oz. of melted butter.

830— SOLE SAINT-QERMAIN

Season the sole ; dip it in melted butter, and cover it with
fresh bread-crumbs, taking care to pat the latter with the flat of
a knife, in order that they may combine with the butter to form
a kind of crust. Sprinkle with some more melted butter,
and grill the fish gently so that its coating of bread-crumbs may
acquire a nice golden colour. Dish the sole, and surround it
with potatoes turned to the shape of olives, and cooked in butter.

Send a Bearnaise sauce to the table separately.

831— SOLE FLORENTINE

Poach the sole in a fish fumet and butter. Spread a layer
of shredded spinach, stewed in butter, on the bottom of a dish ;
place the sole thereon ; cover it with Mornay sauce ; sprinkle
with a little grated cheese, and set to glaze quickly in the oven
or at a salamander.

833— SOLE MONTREUIL

Poach the sole in one-sixth pint of fish fumet, one-sixth pint
of white wine, and one-half oz. of butter.

FISH 285

Drain as Soon as poached, and surround with potato-balls
the size of walnuts, cooked in salted water, and kept whole.
Cover the sole with white-wine sauce, and lay a thread of shrimp
sauce over the garnish.

833— SOLE AU GRATIN

Partly separate the fillets from the bones on the upper side
of the fish, and slip a lump of butter, the size of a walnut, under
each.

This done, place the sole on a well-buttered gratin dish, on the
bottom of which a pinch of chopped shallots and parsley has
been sprinkled, together with one or two tablespoonfuls of
Gratin sauce.

Lay four cooked mushrooms along the sole, and surround it
with one oz. of raw mushrooms, cut into rather thin slices.

Add two tablespoonfuls of white wine; cover the sole with
Gratin sauce; sprinkle with fine raspings followed by melted
butter, and set the gratin to form in pursuance of the directions
given under complete Gratin (No. 269).

When taking the sole from the oven, sprinkle a few drops
of lemon juice and a pinch of chopped parsley upon it, and
serve at once.

834— SOLE AU CHAMBERTIN

Season the sole and poach it on a buttered dish with one-
third pint of Chambertin wine.

As soon as it is poached, drain it, dish it, and keep it hot.
Reduce the cooking-liquor to half, add thereto a little freshly-
ground pepper and two or three drops of lemon-juice, thicken
with a lump of manied butter the size of a walnut, and finish
the sauce with one and one-half oz. of butter.

Cover the sole with the sauce, set to glaze quickly, and gar-
nish both sides of the dish with a little heap of julienne of
filleted sole, seasoned, dredged, and tossed in clarified butter
at the last moment so that it may be very crisp.

835— Remarks concerning "SOLES AUX GRANDS VINS "

Taking recipe No. 834 as a model, and putting into requi-
sition all the good wines of Burgundy and Bordeaux, the fol-
lowing varieties are obtained, viz. : — Soles au Volnay, au
Pommard, au Romanee, au Clos-Vougeot, or soles au Saint-
Estfephe, au Chateau-Larose, au Saint-Emilion, &c., &c.

836— SOLE MONTGOLFIER

Poach the sole in one-sixth pint of white wine and as much
of the cooking-liquor of mushrooms. Drain, dish, and cover it

286 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

with a white wine sauce combined with the reduced cooking-
liquor of the sole and one tablespoonful of a fine pilienne of
spiny lobster's tail, mushrooms, and very black truffles. Sur-
round the sole with a border of little palmettes made from pufT-
paste and cooked without colouration.

837— SOLE SUR LE PLAT

Partly separate the fillets from the bones on the upper side
of the fish, and slip a piece of butter the size of a walnut under
each.

Lay the sole on a liberally buttered dish, moisten with one-
fifth pint of the cooking-liquor of fish, and add a few drops of
lemon-juice.

Cook in the oven, basting often the while, until the cooking-
liquor has by reduction acquired the consistence of a syrup and
covers the sole with a translucent and glossy coat.

N.B. — By substituting for the mushroom cooking-liquor a
good white or red wine, to which a little melted pale meat-glaze
has been added, the following series of dishes may be prepared,
viz. : — Sole sur le plat au Chambertin. Sole sur le plat au vin
rouge, Sole sur le plat au Champagne. Sole sur le plat au
Chablis, &c., &c.

838— SOLE REQENCE

Poach the sole in a little white wine and two-thirds oz. of
butter cut into small pieces.

Drain the sole, dish it, and surround it with six quenelles
of whiting forcemeat finished with crayfish butter, moulded by
means of a small spoon ; four poached oysters (cleared of their
beards); four small cooked and very white mushrooms; four
small truffles, turned to the shape of olives; and four small
poached slices of milt. Cover the sole and the garnish with a
Normande sauce finished with a little truffle essence.

839— SOLE PORTUQAISE

Poach the sole in white wine and the cooking-liquor of fish.
Drain, dish, and surround with a garnish consisting of two
medium-sized tomatoes, peeled, pressed, minced, cooked in
butter, and combined with minced and cooked mushrooms, and
a large pinch of chopped chives.

Coat the sole with white wine sauce, plentifully buttered,
and take care that none of the sauce touches the garnish.

Set to glaze quickly, sprinkle the garnish with a pinch of
chopped parsley when taking the sole from the oven, and serve
immediately.

FISH 287

840— SOLE CUBAT

Poach the sole in one-fifth pint of the cboking-hquor of
mushrooms and one-half oz. of butter cut into small pieces.

Coat the bottom of the dish intended for the sole with a
pur^e of mushrooms, place the drained sole on this pur^e, lay
six fine slices of truffle along the fish, coat with Mornay sauce,
sprinkle with cheese, and glaze quickly.

841— SOLE AUX HUtTRES

Open and poach six oysters. Poach the sole in the liquor
of the oysters, drain it, dish it, and surround it with the oysters
(cleared of their beards).

Coat with a white wine sauce combined with the reduced
cooking-liquor of the sole, and glaze quickly.

842— SOLE A LA MEUNIBRE

Proceed for this dish as directed under " Fish k la
Meuni^re" (No. 778).

843— SOLE MEUNIERE AUX CONCOMBRES,

otherwise DORIA

Prepare a sole k la Meuni^re. Garnish it at both ends with
little heaps of cucumber, turned and cooked in butter with a
little salt and a pinch of sugar.

844— SOLE MEUNIERE AUX AUBERGINES

Prepare a sole k la Meuni^re in the usual way. Surround
it with a fine border of egg-plant rundles one-third inch thick,
seasoned, dredged, and fried in clarified butter, just in time to
be arranged round the sole when it is ready. The question of
time is important, for if the fried rundles be allowed to wait at
all they very quickly lose their crispness.

845— SOLE MEUNIBRE AUX CfiPES

Prepare the sole k la Meuni^re in the usual way and sur-
round it with a border of sliced cepes frizzled in butter just be-
fore dishing up.

846— SOLE MEUNI6RE AUX MORILLES

Surround the sole with very fresh morels cooked in salted
water and then tossed in butter just before dishing up.
Sprinkle a pinch of chopped parsley over the morels.

288 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

847— SOLE MEUNIBRE AUX RAISINS

The sole being ready, encircle it with fresh skinned Mus-
cadel grapes prepared in advance.

848-SOLE MEUNIERE A L'ORANQE

When the sole is cooked and dished, lay thereon a row of
orange slices, peeled to the pulp and thoroughly pipped, or
some sections of oranges, likewise peeled to the pulp and care-
fully pipped. This done, cover the sole and the garnish with
lightly-browned butter and serve instantly.

849— SOLE LUTECE

Line the bottom of the dish intended for the sole with a
coating of shredded spinach tossed in lightly-browned butter.
Place the sole, prepared k la Meuni^re, upon this spinach ; lay
a few rundles of onion and slices of artichoke-bottom tossed in
butter upon the fish ; and on either side of the sole lay a border
of potato-slices, freshly cooked in salted water and well
browned in butter.

At the last moment cover the whole with lightly-browned
butter.

850— SOLE MURAT

Toss in butter, separately (i) one medium-sized potato cut
into dice; (2) two small raw artichoke-bottoms, likewise cut
into dice. Prepare the sole k la Meuni^re, dish it, and surround
it with the tossed potato and artichoke-bottom, mixed when
cooked. Lay on the sole five slices of tomato, one-half inch
thick, seasoned, dredged, and tossed in very hot oil ; sprinkle
a few drops of pale melted meat-glaze, a little lemon-juice, and
a pinch of concussed parsley over the sole, and cover the whole
with slightly-browned butter. Serve instantly.

851— SOLE A LA PROVEN9ALE

Poach the sole in one-sixth pint of fish fumet, two table-
spoonfuls of oil and a piece, the size of a pea, of garlic, well
crushed. Drain and dish the sole. Coat it with Provengale
sauce combined with the reduced cooking-liquor, and sprinkle
a little concussed parsley over it.

Surround the sole with four little tomatoes and four
medium-sized mushrooms stuffed with duxelles flavoured with
a mite of garlic; these latter should be put in the oven just in
time for them to be ready at the dishing up of the fish.

FISH 289

852— SOLE ARLESIENNE

Poach the sole in a little fish fumet. Dish it, reduce the
fumet, and add thereto the following garnish : — Cook a little
chopped onion in butter, add two medium-sized, peeled,
emptied, and concussed tomatoes, a bit of garlic, and some con-
cassed parsley. Cook with lid on, add the reduced fumet and
twelve pieces of vegetable-marrow, turned to the shape of olives
and cooked in butter.

Cover the sole with this garnish and set a little heap of
fried onion at each end of the dish.

853— SOLE A LA ROYALE

Poach the sole in a few tablespoonfuls of fish fumet and two-
thirds oz. of butter cut into small lumps. Dish the sole and
set upon it four small cooked mushrooms, four small quenelles
of fish forcemeat, four crayfishes' tails, and four slices of
trufHe.

Surround the sole with potato-balls, raised by means of the
round spoon-cutter and cooked a I'anglaise, and coat the sole
and garnish with Normande sauce.

854— SOLE A LA RUSSE

Prepare twelve grooved and very thin roundels of carrots,
cut a small onion into fine slices. Put these vegetables into
and cut a small onion into fine slices. Put these vegetables into
one-seventh pint of white wine, and one-third pint of fish fum,et.
Cook and, in the process, reduce the moistening by half, and
pour this preparation into a deep dish.

Partly separate the fillets from the bones on the upper side
of the sole, slip a piece of bvitter, the size of a walnut, under
each fillet, and put the fish into a deep dish containing the
preparation. Poach and baste frequently the while.

As soon as it is poached, dish the sole, also the vegetables
used in cooking, and keep the whole hot.

Reduce the cooking-liquor to one-eighth pint, add a few
drops of lemon juice, and finish it away from the fire with one
and one-half oz. of butter. Coat the sole and the garnish with
this sauce.

855— SOLE RICHELIEU

Prepare the sole exactly as directed under " Sole k la Col-
bert " (No. 822). When it is fried, remove the bones and dish
it. Garnish the inside with butter k la maitre-d'h6tel, and lay
thereon a row of sliced truffles.

U

290 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

856— SOLE NORMANDE

Poach the sole on a buttered dish with one-sixth pint of fish
fumet, and the same quantity of the cooking-liquor of mush-
rooms. Drain and dish the sole, and surround it with mussels,
poached oysters (cleared of their beards), shrimps' tails, and
small cooked mushrooms. Put the sole in the oven for a few
minutes, tilt the dish in order to get rid of all liquid, and coat
the sole and the garnish with Normande sauce. Make a little
garland of pale meat-glaze on the sauce, and finish the gar-
nish with the following articles : — Six fine slices of truffle set
in a row upon the sole; six small crusts in the shape of
lozenges, fried in clarified butter and arranged round the
truffles ; four gudgeons treated a I'anglaise and fried at the last
moment; and four medium-sized trussed crayfish cooked in
court-bouillon.

Set the gudgeons and the crayfish round the dish.

857— SOLE MARQUERY

Poach the sole in white wine and fish fumet in the propor-
tions already given.

Drain and dish the sole, and surround it with a border of
mussels and shrimps' tails. Coat the sole and the garnish with
white wine sauce, well finished with butter, and set to glaze
quickly.

858— SOLE MARINI6RE

Liberally butter a dish, sprinkle a coffeespoonful of chopped
shallots on the bottom, lay the sole thereon, and poach the
latter with one-sixth pint of white wine and the same quantity
of the very clear cooking-liquor of mussels. Drain and dish
the sole, surround it with mussels (cleared of their beards), and
keep it hot.

Reduce the cooking-liquor to half; thicken with a table-
spoonful of velout^, and the yolks of two eggs, and finish it,
away from the fire, with two and one-half oz. of butter and a
pinch of chopped parsley.

Tilt the dish so as to rid it of the liquid accumulated on the
bottom, coat the sole and the garnish with the prepared sauce,
and glaze quickly.

859— SOLE AU VIN BLANC

Partly separate the fillets from the bones on the upper side
of the sole, and slip a piece of butter, as large as a walnut,
under each fillet. Lay the sole in a dish, the bottom of which

FISH 291

should be buttered and garnished with a small onion, chopped.
Moisten with one-quarter pint of ordinary white wine, as much
fish fumet, and a few tablespoonfuls of the cooking-liquor of
mushrooms. Poach gently with lid on.

Drain and dish the sole, and coat it with a white wine sauce,
prepared in accordance with one of the methods given in the
chapter on Sauces (No. in). Glaze quickly, or serve without
glazing.

N.B. — " Sole au Vin Blanc " may be prepared after the
above recipe, but ordinary white wine may be replaced by
one of the Rhine wines or Moselle, by some Johannisberg, or
by a good white Burgundy or Bordeaux wine, such as Chablis-
Moutonne, Savigny, Montrachet, Barsac, Sauternes, and even
Chateau-Yquem or Ch^teau-Latour.

In any of these cases the name of the wine may be men-
tioned, and on the menu may be written Sole au Barsac, Sole
au Chateau-Yquem, &c.

860— SOLE DIEPPOISE

Poach the sole with one-sixth pint of fish fumet and a few
tablespoonfuls of the cooking-liquor of mussels.

Drain and dish the sole, surround it with poached mussels
(shelled and cleared of their beards) and shrimps' tails, and
coat the fish and the garnish with a white wine sauce combined
with the reduced cooking-liquor.

861— SOLE DIPLOMATE

Poach the sole in very clear fish fumet.
Drain it, dish it, and coat it with Diplomate sauce.
Set upon it a row of six fine slices of black truffle; these
should have been previously glazed with pale meat-glaze.

862— SOLE BONNE FEMME

Butter the bottom of the dish intended for the sole, and
besprinkle it with two chopped shallots, one pinch of parsley,
and one and one-half oz. of raw minced mushrooms. Lay the
sole upon this garnish, moisten with one-quarter pint of white
wine and as much fish fumet, and poach gently, taking care to
baste from time to time.

When the sole is poached, drain off the cooking-liquor into
a vegetable-pan, and reduce it quickly to half ; effect the leason
with two tablespoonfuls of fish velout^, and finish the sauce
with two oz. of butter. Coat the sole with this sauce and set
it to glaze in a fierce oven or at a salamander.

U 2

292 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

863— SOLE PARISIENNE

Poach the sole in white wine, the cooking-liquor of mush-
rooms, and some butter. Drain it thoroughly, dish it, and
coat it with white wine sauce combined with the reduced cook-
ing-liquor of the sole. Garnish with a row of six slices of
truffle and six fine roundels of cooked mushrooms kept very
white, and finish with four medium-sized trussed crayfish.

864— SOLE NANTUA

Poach the sole in one-sixth pint of fish fumet and a few
tablespoonfuls of the cooking-liquor of mushrooms.

Drain and dish the sole, surround it with twelve shelled
crayfishes' tails, and coat it with Nantua sauce.

Lay a row of very black truffle slices along the middle of the
fish.

FILLETS OF SOLE

Subject to the kind of dish required, fillets of sole are either
kept in their natural state, they are stuffed and folded over, or
they are simply folded over without being stuffed, each of which
methods of preparation will be specially referred to in the
recipes.

Whatever be the method adopted, always skin the fillets
thoroughly; i.e., remove the thin membrane which lies beneath
the skin, the tendency of which, during the cooking process, is
to shrink and thereby disfigure the fillet.

This done, flatten out the fillets with the broad side of a wet
knife, and trim them slightly if necessary. The poaching of
fillets of sole must be effected without allowing the cooking-
liquor to boil, the object being to prevent the pieces losing their
shape. Fillets should also be kept very white.

In cases where the exact amount of the poaching-liquor is
not given, allow one-quarter pint to every four fillets, i.e., to
every sole.

865— FILETS DE SOLES AM^RICAINE

Arrange the folded fillets in a deep, buttered dish, and poach
them in fish fumet.

Drain, and dish them in the form of an oval, letting them
overlap one another with their tail-ends hidden. Garnish the
centre of the dish with slices of lobster prepared h I'am^ricaine
(No. 939), and coat the whole with the lobster's sauce.

866— FILETS DE SOLES ANQLAISE

Treat the fillets a I'anglaise with fresh and fine bread-crumbs.
Pat the bread-crumbs over the egg with the flat of a knife, that

FISH 293

the two may be well combined; and, with the back of a knife,
criss-cross the coating of the fillets.

Cook them gently in clarified butter. Serve on a hot dish,
and sprinkle the fillets with half-melted butter k la maitre-
d'hotel.

867— FILETS DE SOLES ANDALOUSE

Coat the upper sides of the fillets with fish forcemeat com-
bined, per pound, with three oz. of chopped capsicum. Roll
them up, after the manner of a scroll (see No. 914), and
smooth the forcemeat on the top. Poach the fillets in butter
and fish fumet.

The following should have been prepared beforehand : —
(i) As many small half-tomatoes, stewed in butter and gar-
nished by means of rizotto with capsicums, as there are fillets
of sole ; (2) the same number of roundels of egg-plant, seasoned,
dredged, and fried in oil.

When dishing, arrange the roundels of egg-plant round the
dish ; place a stuffed tomato on each roundel of egg-plant, and
a poached fillet of sole upon each tomato. Sprinkle with
lightly-browned butter, and serve at once.

868— FILETS DE SOLES CAPRICE

Dip the fillets in melted, seasoned butter, and then roll them
in fresh and fine bread-crumbs. Pat the bread-crumbs with
the flat of the knife, and with the back of the same instrument
criss-cross the surface of the fillets. Sprinkle with melted
butter, and set to grill gently, taking care that the coating of
bread-crumbs acquires a nice, light-brown colour.

Lay each grilled fillet on the half of a peeled banana, cooked
in butter, arid send to the table, separately, a Roberts sauce
Escoffier, finished with butter.

869— FILETS DE SOLES CATALANE

Poach, in the oven, as many emptied and seasoned half-
tomatoes as there are fillets of sole. Cook some very finely-
minced onion in oil, without letting it acquire any colour, and
allow one tablespoonful of the onion to each half-tomato.

Fold the fillets of sole, and poach them in fish fumet just a
few minutes before dishing them. Garnish the half-tomatoes
with onion ; arrange them in a circle on a dish, and place a
fillet of sole upon each. Quickly reduce the cooking-liquor of
the fillets, and finish it with butter in the proportion of one oz.
per one-eighth pint of reduced fumet.

^QHt the fillets and set to glaze quickly.

294 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

870— FILETS DE SOLES CLARENCE

Fold the fillets, and poach them in fish fumet.

They may be dished after the two following methods: —

1. Put a preparation of Duchesse potatoes in a piping-bay
fitted with a large, grooved pipe, and describe therewith an
ornamental design containing as many divisions as there are
fillets of sole. Lightly gild and brown in the oven. This
design, consisting of scroll-work, should be prepared before
poaching the fillets. Lay a fillet in each division of the design,
and coat with AmericaR j" .uce, prepared with curry and com-
bined with the meat of the lobster (cut into small dice) which
has served in the preparation of the sauce. Take care that no
sauce touches the scroll-work, which should remain well-defined.

2. Bake some large potatoes in the oven. Open them; re-
move their pulp, and put into each baked shell a tablespoonful
of American sauce au currie referred to above. Add a poached
fillet of sole ; coat with American sauce ; dish these garnished
potatoes on a napkin, and serve very hot.

871— FILETS DE SOLES AUX CHAMPIGNONS

Stew two oz. of small mushrooms in butter. Fold the fillets,
and poach them in one-sixth pint of the cooking-liquor of mush-
rooms, and a piece of butter the size of a walnut. Arrange the
fillets in an oval, and garnish the centre of the dish with the
stewed mushrooms.

Reduce the cooking-liquor of the fillets to one-third ; add
thereto two tablespoonfuls of velout^ ; finish the sauce with one
oz. of butter, and coat the fillets and the garnish.

873— FILETS DE SOLES AUX CREVETTES

Fold the fillets, and poach them in fish fumet.

Dish them in an oval ; garnish the middle with one oz. of
shelled shrimps' tails, kept very hot, and coat the fillets and
the garnish with shrimp sauce.

873— FILETS DE SOLES CHAUCHAT

Poach the fillets of sole, folded, in butter and lemon juice.

Coat the bottom of a dish with Mornay sauce, and set the
fillets of sole thereon in the form of an oval. Surround the fish
with roundels of cooked potatoes turned to the shape of corks.

Cover the fillets and the garnish with Mornay sauce, and
glaze quickly in a fierce oven or at the salamander.

874— FILETS DE SOLES BERCY

Butter the bottom of the dish intended for the soles, and
■<prinkle it with two finely-chopped shallots. Lay the fillets

FISH 295

lengthwise upon the dish, side by side; moisten with three
tablespoonfuls of white wine and as much fish fumet, and add
one-half oz. of butter cut into small pieces.

Cook in the oven, basting frequently the while, and glaze
at the last minute. Besprinkle with a few drops of lemon
juice, and when about to serve drop a pinch of chopped parsley
upon each fillet.

Or, poach the fillets with chopped shallots, and increase the
moistening. As soon as the fillets are ready, drain off their
cooking-liquor into a vegetable-pan ; reduce it speedily to one-
third, and add a few drops of meat-glaze, a little lemon juice,
one-half oz. of butter, and one pinch of chopped parsley.

Coat the fillets, and set to glaze quickly.

N.B. — Sole k la Bercy may be prepared after either of the
two methods.

875— FILETS DE SOLES DEJAZET

Treat the fillets of sole d I'anglaise and grill them as
explained under No. 860.

Dish them, cover them thinly with half-melted tarragon
butter, and deck each fillet with five or six parboiled, tarragon

876— FILETS DE SOLES GRAND DUC

Fold the fillets of soles over, and poach them in fish fumet
and the cooking-liquor of mushrooms. Arrange them in an
oval on a dish, with their tails pointing inwards; place a fine
slice of truffle in the middle of each fillet, and between each of
the latter three shelled crayfishes' tails.

Coat with Mornay sauce, and set to glaze quickly.

When taking the dish from the oven, set in its centre a
fine heap of very green asparagus-heads, cohered with butter
at the moment of dishing.

877— FILETS DE SOLES JOINVILLE

Select some fine fillets of soles; fold them, and poach them
in the cooking-liquor of mushrooms, and butter, taking care
to keep them very white. Arrange them in an oval, with their
tails pointing upwards and the carapace of a crayfish fixed on
each fillet; and garnish the middle of the dish with a salpicon
or a short julienne, consisting of one and one-half oz. of cooked
mushrooms, one-half oz. of truffle, and one and one-half oz. of
shrimps' tails cohered by means of a few tablespoonfuls of
Joinville sauce. Coat the fillets and the garnish with the same
sauce, and deck each fillet with a fine slice of truffle coated with
meat-glaze.

296 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

They may also be served after the old-fashioned way, as
follows : —

Set the garnish in the middle of the dish, shaping it like a
dome ; coat it with Joinville sauce, and surround it with the
fillets of sole, which should slightly overlap one another and
have their tails uppermost. Fix a carapace of crayfish on the
tail of each fillet, and deck each with a slice of very black
truffle.

With this method of dishing, the garnish alone is coated
with sauce, the fillets thus forming a white, encircling border.

878— FILETS DE SOLES JUDIC

Fold, and poach the fillets in butter and lemon juice.

Arrange them in an oval round a dish, laying each upon a
nice little braised and trimmed half lettuce, and place upon each
fillet a quenelle of sole mousseline-foTcemeat in the shape of a
flattened oval, poached at the time of dishing up.

Coat with Mornay sauce and glaze quickly. When taking
the dish out of the oven, encircle the fillets of sole with a thread
of buttered meat-glaze.

879— FILETS DE SOLES A LA HONQROISE

Fry in butter, without colouration, one small tablespoonful
of chopped onion seasoned with a very little paprika; moisten
with three tablespoonfuls of white wine and one-sixth pint of
fish fumet ; add two small peeled, pressed, and roughly-chopped
tomatoes, and set to cook for seven or eight minutes.

Fold the fillets of sole ; lay them on a buttered dish ; pour
the above preparation thereon, and poach them. Arrange them
in a circle on a dish ; reduce their cooking-liquor to a stiff
consistence ; add a few tablespoonfuls of cream and a few drops
of lemon juice, and coat the fillets with this sauce.

880— FILETS DE SOLES LADY EGMONT

Fold the fillets, and poach them in a few tablespoonfuls of
excellent fish fumet.

Also for every four fillets (i.e., per sole) finely minee one oz.
of well-cleaned mushrooms, and cook them quickly in butter,
lemon juice, a little salt, and pepper. This done, add the
cooking-liquor to the fish fumet, and keep the cooked minced
mushrooms hot.

Reduce the combined cooking-liquor and fish fumet to half ;
add thereto one oz. of butter and two tablespoonfuls of cream ;
and to the resulting sauce add the reserved minced mushrooms
and two tablespoonfuls of freshlyTCOoked and wplj-drained as-
paragus-headsj uncoolpd.

FISH 297

Serve the fillets of sole on an earthenware dish, coat them
with the above garnish, and set to glaze quickly in a fierce
oven or at the salamander.

881— FILETS DE SOLES MARINETTE

Poach a sole in fish fumet and the cooking-liquor of mush-
rooms, and drain it on a napkin. When it is still lukewarm,
carefully raise its fillets and trim them.

Break an egg into a bowl; beat it well, and add enough
grated Gruy^re and Parmesan to it (mixed in equal quantities)
to produce a dense paste. Mix a dessertspoonful of cold
Bechamel sauce with this paste; add salt and cayenne pepper;
spread an even thickness of one inch of it over two of the fillets
of sole; lay thereon the two remaining fillets, and put aside in
the cool.

When the egg and cheese paste is very stiff, dip the fillets
in a Villeroy sauce, and leave the latter to cool. Then treat the
stuffed and sauced fillets a I'anglaise, and fry them, just before
serving, in very hot fat.

Dish on a napkin with very green parsley all round.

882— FILETS DE SOLES MARIE STUART

Fold the fillets, and poach them in fish fumet. Arrange
them in an oval on a dish ; coat them with the sauce given
under " Filets de soles k la New-burg" (No. 890), and place
on each fillet a quenelle of fish forcemeat in the shape of a quoit
and decked with a slice of truffle. These quenelles should, if
possible, be poached just before dishing up, and well drained
before being laid on the fillets of sole.

883— FILETS DE SOLES MIGNONETTE

Cook the fillets in butter, and set them in a hot timbale.

Surround them with potato-balls the size of peas, raised by
means of the round spoon-cutter, and cooked beforehand in
butter.

Lay upon the fillets eight or ten slices of fresh truffle heated
in one-sixth pint of very light meat-glaze.

Finish the glaze in which the slices of truffle have been

heated with two-thirds oz. of butter and a few drops of lemon

juice, and pour it over the fillets and their garnish. Serve very

hot.

884— FILETS DE SOLES MIMI

Divide a live lobster into two, lengthwise, and prepare it

k I'am^ricaine, taking care to keep the sauce short.

Wl^en the lobster is cooked, take the me^t from the tail ; put

298 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

it into as many slices as there are fillets of sole, and keep them
hot.

Remove all the meat from the claws, and that remaining in
the carcass; pound all of it smoothly, add two tablespoonfuls
of cream, and rub through a fine sieve. Prepare a garnish of
spaghetti with cream, and add thereto the puree of lobster.

Fold the fillets of sole, and poach them in Chablis wine and
butter. All this being done, lay the two emptied halves of the
lobster on a napkin lying on a dish, setting them back to back.
Fill these lobster shells to the brim with the prepared garnish
of spaghetti. Upon this garnish lay the poached fillets of sole,
sandwiching a slice of lobster between every two ; besprinkle the
whole with a short and fine julienne of very black truffle.

Send the lobster sauce, finished with a few tablespoonfuls of
cream, to the table separately. Proceed as quickly as possible
with the dishing up, in order that the dish may reach the table
very hot.

885— FILETS DE SOLES MEXICAINE

Coat the fillets with fish forcemeat, and roll them to resemble
scrolls (see No. 914). Poach them in fish fumet as directed for
the faupiettes. Lay each rolled fillet in a grilled mushroom
garnished with one-half tablespoonful of peeled, pressed, and
concussed tomato cooked in butter, and arrange them in an
oval on a dish.

Coat them with Bechamel sauce combined with a pur^e of
tomatoes and capsicums cut into small dice, in the proportion
of two tablespoonfuls of the puree and two-thirds oz. of the
capsicums per pint of the sauce.

886— FILETS DE SOLES MIRABEAU

Poach the fillets, left in their natural state, in fish fumet.

Dish them and coat with white wine and Gen^voise sauces,
alternating the two, white and brown. Lay a thin strip of
anchovy fillet between each of the fillets of sole; deck those of
the latter coated with white sauce with a slice of truffle, and those
coated with brown sauce with a star of blanched tarragon
leaves.

887— FILETS DE SOLES MIRAMAR

Divide each of the fillets into slices; season them and cook
them in butter. Cut fifteen roundels (one-third inch thick) of
egg-plant; season, dredge, and toss them in butter, taking care
to keep them very crisp.

Take a timbale of suitable size, and line its sides with a
layer (three-quarters inch thick) of pilaff rice.

FISH 299

Put the roundels of egg-plant and the sliced fillets of sole
(mixed and tossed together for a moment) in the middle of the
dish.

Just before serving, sprinkle with one oz. of lightly-browned
butter.

888— FILETS DE SOLES AUX HUITRES

Open and poach twelve oysters. Poach the fillets of sole,
folded, in the oyster liquor strained through linen, and a piece
of butter as large as a walnut.

Arrange in an oval on a dish ; garnish the centre with the
poached oysters (cleared of their beards), and coat the fillets
of sole and the oysters with Normande sauce combined with
the reduced cooking-liquor of the fillets.

889— FILETS DE SOLES NELSON

Fold the fillets, and poach them in fish fumet.

Arrange them in a circle on a dish ; coat them with white-
wine sauce, and glaze quickly.

Garnish the centre of the dish with a pyramid of potato-
balls cooked in butter and of a light-brown colour. Surround
the fillets with poached milt.

890— FILETS DE SOLES NEW-BURG

Prepare a lobster a la New-burg, in accordance with one of
the recipes given (No. 948 and 949). Cut the tail into as many
slices as there are fillets of sole, and keep them hot.

Cut the remainder of the lobster meat into dice, and add these
to the sauce. Fold the fillets of sole, and poach them in fish
fumet. Arrange them in an oval on a dish ; lay a slice of lobster
upon each fillet, and coat with the lobster-sauce combined with
the dice, prepared as directed above.

891— FILETS DE SOLES ORIENTALE

Prepare the fillets exactly as those a la New-burg, but season
the sauce with curry.

Having dished and sauced the fillets, set a pyramid of rice
a rindienne in the middle of the dish, or send the rice to the
table separately, in a timbale; either way will be found to
answer.

892— FILETS DE SOLES PERSANE

Prepare the fillets as in the case of those k la New-burg, but
season the sauce with Paprika, and add thereto one oz. of cap-
sicums cut into large dice. Send some pilaff rice with saffron
to the table separately.

300 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

893— FILETS DE SOLES ORLY

Season the fillets; dip them into batter and, a few minutes
before serving, put them into very hot fat. Drain them; dish
them on a napkin with fried parsley, and serve a tomato sauce
separately.

N.B. — There are several ways of preparing these fillets of
sole. Thus they may be simply dipped in milk, dredged, and
impaled on a hatelet. They may also be marinaded, treated
a I'anglaise, and twisted into cork-screw shape.

Always, however, dish them on a napkin with fried parsley
and, in every case, send a tomato sauce to the table separately.

This last accompaniment is essential.

894— FILETS DE SOLES OLQA, otherwise " OTERO "

Bake beforehand, in the oven, as many fine, well-washed
potatoes as there are fillets of sole. As soon as they are done,
remove a piece of the baked shell, and withdraw the pulp in
such wise as to leave nothing but the long, parched shells. Fold
the fillets, and poach them with a little excellent fish fumet.
Garnish the bottom of each prepared shell with a tablespoonful
of shelled shrimps' tails, cohered with a white-wine sauce.

Put a poached fillet of sole upon this garnish ; cover with
sufficient Mornay sauce to completely fill the shell ; sprinkle
with grated cheese, and glaze quickly. Dish on a napkin the
moment the fillets have been taken from the oven, and serve
immediately.

89s— FILETS DE SOLES POLIQNAC

Fold the fillets, and poach them in one-quarter pint of white
wine, a few tablespoonfuls of the cooking-liquor of mushrooms,
and a piece of butter about the size of a walnut.

Dish the fillets in an oval. Reduce the cooking-liquor to
half; thicken it by means of two tablespoonfuls, bare, of fish
velout6; finish the sauce with one oz. of butter, and add thereto
three small, cooked, finely-minced mushrooms, and one table-
spoonful of a julienne of truffles.

Coat the fillets with sauce, and set to glaze.

896— FILETS DE SOLES PAYSANNE

For the fillets of soles, cut two small carrots, two new onions,
a stick of celery, and the white of one leek in paysanne fashion.
Season these vegetables with a very little table-salt and a pinch
of sugar ; stew them in butter ; moisten sufficiently to cover them
with lukewarm water; and add a few pieces of broccoli, a table-
spoonful of peas, and the same quantity of French beans cyt
into lozenges.

FISH 301

Complete the cooking of the vegetables while reducing the
cooking-liquor. Season the fillets of sole, and lay them on a
buttered earthenware dish. Pour thereon the garnish of vege-
tables; put the cover on the dish, and gently poach the fillets.

When they are cooked, tilt the dish so as to pour all the
liquor away into a vegetable-pan; this done, reduce the liquor
to one-fifth pint, and add to it three oz. of butter.

Pour this sauce into the dish containing the fillets and the
vegetable garnish, and serve immediately.

897— FILETS DE SOLES EN PILAW A LA LEVANTINE

Cut the fillets into collops, and toss these in butter. Prepare
some pilaff rice after the usual recipe (No. 2255), and add
thereto one oz. of capsicum cut into dice.

Also toss in butter one and one-half oz. of egg-plant, cut
into dice and seasoned, and put these with the fillets of sole.
Mould the rice into a border round the dish ; put the fillets and
the egg-plant in the middle, and coat the two with curry sauce
without letting the latter touch the rice.

N.B. — In the case of pilaff rice with fillets of sole, the rice
should border the dish, and the fillets of sole, tossed in butter,
should be laid in the middle and coated with brown butter.

898— FILETS DE SOLES POMPADOUR

Treat the fillets with butter and bread-crumbs, and grill
them. Garnish them all round with a thread of very firm
b^arnaise tomat^e. Dish and surround them with a border of
Chateau potatoes (No. 2208).

Lay a fine slice of truffle, moistened with melted meat-glaze,
on each fillet.

899 -FILETS DE SOLES RACHEL

Coat the fillets with some delicate fish forcemeat; put four
slices of truffle on the forcemeat of each of the fillets ; fold the
latter, and poach them in one-sixth pint of the cooking-liquor
of mushrooms, and a piece of butter the size of a walnut, cut
into small pieces.

Arrange the fillets in an oval on a dish, and coat them with
white-wine sauce combined with one tablespoonful of freshly-
cooked and uncooled asparagus-heads, and one tablespoonful
of truffle in dice per every one-half pint of the sauce.

900— FILETS DE SOLES VENITIENNE

Fold the fillets, and poach them in fish fumet.
Arrange them in a circle on a dish, alternating them with
thin crusts, in the shape of hearts, fried in butter. Coat with

302 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

Venetian sauce combined with the reduced cooking-liquor of

the fillets.

901— FILETS DE SOLES VERDI

Prepare a garnish of macaroni cut into dice ; cohere this
with cream and grated Gruy^re and Parmesan, and add three
oz. of lobster meat and one and one-half oz. of truffles in dice
per every one-half lb. of the macaroni.

Poach the fillets of sole in fish fumet, keeping the fillets in
their natural state. Lay the macaroni very evenly on the dish ;
set the poached fillets of sole upon it ; coat with Mornay sauce,
and set to glaze quickly.

902— FILETS DE SOLES VICTORIA

Fold the fillets, and poach them in fish fuvtet.

Arrange them in an oval on a dish, and garnish the centre
with three oz. of the meat from the tail of the spiny lobster,
and one oz. of truffle in dice per every four fillets.

Coat the fillets and the garnish with Victoria sauce, and set
to glaze quickly.

903— FILETS DE SOLES VERONIQUE

Raise the fillets of a fine sole ; beat them slightly ; fold and
season them, and put them in a special earthenware, buttered
dish.

With the bones, some of the trimmings of the fish, a little
minced onion, some parsley stalks, a few drops of lemon juice,
and white wine and water, prepare two spoonfuls of fumet.

This done, strain it over the fillets, and poach them gently.

Drain them carefully; reduce the fumet to the consistence
of a syrup, and finish it with one and one-half oz. of butter.
Arrange the fillets in an oval on the dish whereon they have
been poached; cover them with the buttered fumet, and set to
glaze quickly. When about to serve, set a pyramid of skinned
and very cold muscadel grapes in the middle of the dish.

Put a cover on the dish, and serve immediately.

904— FILETS DE SOLES WALEV^SKA

Poach the fillets in fish fumet, keeping them in their natural
state.

Dish, and surround them with three langoustines' tails cut
into two lengthwise, and stewed in butter (with lid on) with six
fine slices of raw truffle.

Coat with a delicate Mornay sauce, and set to glaze quickly.

N.B. — The Mornay sauce may, according to circumstances,
be combined with one and one-half oz. of langoustine butter
per pint.

FISH 303

90s— FILETS DE SOLES WILHELMINE

Prepare some potato shells as directed under " Filets de soles
Olga " (No. 894). Garnish them with a tablespoonful of
cucumber with cream ; put a fillet of sole into each garnished
shell, a fine Zeeland oyster on each fillet, and cover with
Mornay sauce.

Set to glaze quickly, and dish on a napkin.

Various Preparations of Soles and Fillets of Sole

906— MOUSSELINES DE SOLES

The directions given under " Mousselines de Saumon " (No.
797) apply in all circumstances to Mousselines of Sole. I shall
therefore refrain from repeating the recipe, since, the quantities
remaining the same, all that is needed is the substitution of the
meat of sole for that of salmon. Thus, I shall only state
here, by way of reminding the reader, that these excellent pre-
parations admit of all the fish sauces and garnishes, and that
they may also be accompanied by all purees of fresh vegetables.

907— TURBAN DE FILETS DE SOLES A LA VILLARET

Raise the fillets of three soles; flatten them slightly with a
moistened beater, and trim them very straight on either side.

Liberally butter a medium-sized savarin-mould. Lay the
fillets aslant in this mould, with their tail-ends over-reaching
its inner edge and their other ends projecting over its outer
edge; slip a fine slice of truffle between each, and let them
slightly overlap one another.

When the mould is completely lined with the fillets of sole,
fill it up with lobster mousseline forcemeat. Gently tap the
mould on a folded napkin lying on the table, with the object
of settling the forcemeat, and then draw the overhanging ends
of the fillets across the latter.

Set to poach in a bain-marie in a moderate oven.

This done, take the mould out of the bain-marie ; let it stand
for a few minutes, and then turn it upside-down upon the dish.
Leave it to drain ; soak up the liquid that has leaked out on to
the dish; take off the mould, and moisten the surface of the
fillets by means of a small brush dipped in melted butter. The
object of this last measure is to glaze the fish and to remove
therefrom the froth resulting from its poached albumen.

Now garnish the centre of the moulding with shrimps'
tails, mushrooms, poached milt, and slices of truffle, the whole
cohered by means of Bechamel sauce finished with lobster
butter.

304 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

Send a sauceboat of Bechamel sauce, finished with lobster
butter, to the table at the same time as the fish.

908— TURBAN DE FILETS DE SOLES ET SAUMON
VILLARET

Proceed as in the preceding recipe, but alternate the fillets
of sole with very red slices of salmon of the same size as the
fillets.

The combination yields an excellent result, and the varying
strips of white and orange which constitute the body of the
moulded crown lend sightliness to the dish.

N.B. — The designation " k la Villaret," relating to the crown
alone, in no wise affects the constituents of the garnish; these
may either remain the same as those of the preceding recipe, or
may be replaced by something similar. The sauce alone
remains unalterable, and this should be a good Bdchamel
finished with lobster butter.

909— TIMBALE DE FILETS DE SOLES CARDINAL

For ten people, prepare a timbale crust (No. 2395) the
diameter of which should be greater than the height; line it
with fine, short paste, and decorate it with noodle paste.

Raise the fillets of three medium-sized soles, flatten them
slightly ; coat them with whiting forcemeat prepared with cray-
fish butter, and roll them into scroll-form. Also prepare ten
small slices of the meat of a medium-sized ordinary or spiny
lobster's tail, ten small grooved and cooked mushrooms, fifteen
slices of truffle, and three-quarters pint of Cardinal sauce
finished with a lobster butter.

When about to serve, lay the poached, rolled fillets of sole
(well drained) in a circle round the bottom of the timbale; put
the slices of lobster and the mushrooms in the centre, and
cover the whole with Cardinal sauce.

Set upon the sauce, just over the centre of the timbale, a
large, grooved mushroom (cooked and kept very white), and
encircle the latter with fifteen slices of truffle.

Place the timbale, thus garnished, on a folded napkin lying
on a dish, and serve at once.

910— TIMBALE DE FILETS DE SOLES CARMELITE

Prepare (i) a timbale crust as above; (2) a lobster k la
New-burg made from raw lobster (No. 948); (3) twelve rolled
fillets of sole stuffed with fish forcemeat finished with lobster
butter; (4) three oz. of sliced truffles.

Poach the rolled fillets in fish fumet; slice the meat of the
lobster's tail, and put the poached fillets, the slices of lobster,

arid the slices of truffle into the lobster sauce. Heat the whole
well, without boiling; pour the saiice and garnish into the
tiihbale crust, and deck the top with twelve fine slices of
truffle.

Dish the timbale on a folded napkin, and serve instantly.

911— TIMBALE DE FILETS DE SOLES QRIMALDI

Prepare: — (i) A rather deep timbale crust, and decorate
it with noodle paste. (2) Cook, as for bisqufe, twenty-four small
langotistines ; wrench off their tails; cut them into two length-
wise, and keep them hot in butter. (3) Finely pound the lan-
goustines' carapaces, and add thereto one-third pint of fine
Bechamel. Rub through a fine sieve first, and thert through
tammy. Put the resulting culHs into a saucepan, and heat
without boiling it; intensify the seasoning; add a few table-
spoonfuls of cream, little by little ; put the prepared tails in the
cullis, and keep the latter in the bain-marie. (4) Cut four oz.
of blanched and somewhat stiff macaroni into pieces, and add
thereto one-sixth pint of cream and three oz. of sliced truffle.
Heat until the macaroni has completely absorbed the cream ;
thicken with one-sixth pint of Bechamel sauce finished with fish
fumet; add one and one-half oz. of butter cut into small lumps,
and keep hot. (5) Coat sixteen fillets of sole with truffled fish
forcemeat; roll the fillets into scroll-form, and, at the last
minute, poach them in fish fumet.

To garnish the timbale, spread a layer of macaroni on the
bottom thereof, lay half of the rolled fillets upon the macaroni,
and cover these with half of the langoustines' tails in the cullis.

Repeat the procedure, in the same order, with what is left
of the garnishes, and finish the timbale with a layer of the
langoustines' tails.

Set the timbale on a folded napkin lying on a dish, and serve
immediately.

913— TIMBALE DE FILETS DE SOLES CAR^ME

Flatten the fillets of three medium-sized soles, and trim them
neatly.

Liberally butter a pound-cake mould, and line it with the
fillets, placing them side by side with their tails lying round
the centre of the bottom of the mould, and their opposite ends
projecting above the brim. Press them well, that they may take
the shape of the mould.

Completely coat the fillets with a layer, one-half inch thick,
of fish forcemeat.

Put the "mould in the front of the oven for a few minutes

X

3o6 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

in order to poach the forcemeat, which, in adhering to the fillets,
gives the required firmness to the timbale.

When the forcemeat has been poached and is stiff, with-
draw the timbale from the oven, and cut off the pieces of fillet
that project above the edges of the mould. Fill the timbale
to within one-third inch of its brim with a garnish of shrimps
and poached oysters and mussels, small button-mushrooms, and
slices of truffle, all of which should be cohered with a thick
and highly-seasoned B6chamel sauce. Cover this garnish with
the projecting pieces of fillets, already cut off, and close the
timbale by means of a thin layer of that forcemeat which served
in coating the fillets. Poach for thirty minutes in a bain-marie
and in a moderate oven. After taking the timbale out of the
bain-marie, let it stand for a few minutes; overturn it on a round
dish ; take off the mould ; deck it on top with a garland con-
sisting of six little paupiettes of salmon, each stuffed with a cray-
fish tail, and surmounted by an encrusted crayfish carapace.

Serve a Nantua sauce separately.

913— TIMBALE DE FILETS DE SOLES MARQUISE

For a timbale large enough for ten people, prepare : —

1. An even or fluted timbale crust.

2. A garnish consisting of twelve rolled or folded fillets of
sole poached in fish fumet, twelve poached oysters (cleared of
their beards), twenty-four small quenelles of salmon, and twenty
slices of truffle.

Heat this garnish after having added a few drops of fish
fumet to it, and then thicken it with one-half pint of white-wine
sauce prepared with paprika.

Put the above garnish into the timbale, which should be
very hot; set the latter on a folded napkin, and serve at once.

914— The Preparation of PAUPIETTES OF FILLETS
OF SOLE SALMON, &c.

The paupiettes (or fillets rolled after the manner of a scroll)
are served either as entries like fillets of sole, of which they are
but a special kind, or as a garnish. For the second purpose,
not only should they be smaller than for the first, but very
small fillets are generally selected for the preparation of the
paupiettes.

In order to make paupiettes, first remove the horny film from
the outside surfaces of the fillets, and then slightly flatten the
latter with the blade of a large knife ; trim them on both sides,
and coat them on their flayed side with a thin layer of fish force-
meat, truffled or not, in accordance with the requirements.

t?ISH 307

Now roll them into scroll-form ; smooth the forcemeat that
projects from the top end, and the paupieltes are done.

Stand them upright in a buttered saut^pan to poach, and
take care to place them snugly together lest they lose their
shape while the operation is in progress. Moisten them with
sufficient fish fumet (No. 11) to cover them; poach them in a
moderate oven, and remember, as in the case of fillets of sole,
not to let the poaching-liquor boil.

All the garnishes and sauces suited to fillets of sole likewise
obtain with paupiettes, provided the difference in their shape be
taken into account when dishing up.

For salmon paupiettes, cut slices two-thirds inch wide, one-
half inch thick, and the length of a fillet of sole, from a skinned
fillet of salmon. In view of the unusual fragility of salmon's
flesh, the slices of fillets should be carefully flattened in order
to give them the width and thickness of a fillet of sole. This
done, spread forcemeat on them, and roll them as explained
above.

Soles and Fillets of Sole (Cold)

915— ASPIC DE FILETS DE SOLES

An essential point in the making of an aspic is the clearness
of the fish jelly. For a sole aspic, take some white fish aspic,
which is at once succulent, limpid, and just sufficiently viscous
to allow of its being turned out of a mould without breaking.

For the purpose under consideration, moulds with plain
or decorated borders are generally used, and there are two
modes of procedure : —

I. For a mould capable of holding one quart, fold twelve
small fillets of sole and poach them in butter and lemon juice,
taking care to keep them very white. This done, set them to
cool under a light weight.

Pour a few tablespoonfuls of melted fish jelly into the mould,
which should be lying amidst broken ice. As soon as the jelly
begins to set, decorate it tastefully with pieces (lozenges, cres-
cents, &c.) of very black truffle and the poached white of an
egg. Capers, tarragon leaves, thin roundels of small radishes,
&c., may also be used for the purpose of decoration.

When this part of the procedure has been satisfactorily
effected, sprinkle a few drops of the same jelly over the decorat-
ing particles, in order to fix them and prevent their shifting
during the subsequent stages of the process. Now add enough
melted jelly to cover the bottom of the mould with a layer one
inch thick, and leave this to set.

X 2

3d8 guide to modern COOKERY

On this set jelly, arrange the six fillets of sole ; let their tail-
ends overlap, and cover them with jelly. Continue adding
coat upon coat of jelly until the thickness covering the fillets
measures about one-half inch.

Now arrange the remaining fillets in the reverse order, and
fill up the mould with cold, melted jelly. Leave to cool for
one hour.

When about to serve, quickly dip the mould in a saucepan
of hot water; wipe it, and turn out the aspic upon a folded
napkin lying on a dish.

916— Another Method of Preparing ASPICS
DE FILETS DE SOLES

Coat ten fine fillets of sole with a thin layer of truffled
fish forcemeat finished with crayfish butter, and roll them round
a little rod of truffle, twice as thick as an ordinary penholder.
Tie these faupiettes, once or twice round, with cotton ; poach
them very gently in fish fumet and cool them on ice. Take
a border-mould, even if possible; pour therein a few table-
spoonfuls of melted fish jelly, and then rock it about on broken
ice, with the object of evenly coating it with a thin layer of
the jelly.

This operation is technically called " clothing the mould."

Decorate the bottom of the mould as explained above; fix
the decorating particles, and cover them with a layer one-half
inch thick of fish jelly.

After having properly trimmed the ends of the paufiettes,
cut them into roundels one-half inch thick; set these upright
against the sides of the mould, keeping them close together;
add a few drops of melted jelly to fix the roundels, and as soon
as this has set, add a further quantity, sufficient to completely
cover them.

As soon as this jelly sets, repeat the operation with the
paupiette roundels and the jelly, and do so again and again until
the mould is filled. For turning out the aspic, proceed as
directed above.

917— BORDURE DE FILETS DE SOLES A L'lTALIENNE

Line a border-mould with jelly; i.e., coat its bottom and
sides with a thin layer of fish jelly, rocking it upon ice as
already explained.

Now fill it, two-thirds full, with a garnish consisting of a
julienne of cold, poached fillets of sole, a julienne of truffles
(two oz. per two filleted soles), and a julienne of capsicum (one
and one-half oz. per two filleted soles). Fill up the mould with
melted fish jelly, and leave the latter to set.

FISH 309

When about to serve, turn out the mould upon a little, low
cushion of rice, lying on a dish, and set an Italian salad in the
centre.

Serve a Mayonnaise sauce with this dish.

918— FILETS DE SOLES CALYPSO

Flatten the fillets, and roll them into ■paupiettes around
little rods of wood two-thirds inch thick. Lay the paupiettes
in a buttered saut^pan, with their joined sides undermost, and
poach them in very clear fish fumet and lemon juice, taking care
to keep them very white.

Let them cool, and remove the pieces of wood, whereupon
they will have the appearance of rings.

Take as many small tomatoes as there are paupiettes ; cut
them in two at a point two-thirds of their height below their
stem-end; empty, and peel them. Set a paupiette, upright, in
each tomato ; fill the centre with crayfish mousse combined with
crayfishes' tails in dice ; lay a round piece of milt (stamped out
with a cutter, poached, and cold) on each, and, finally, the
shelled tail of a crayfish on each roundel of milt.

Arrange the tomatoes in a circle round a dish; surround
them with little triangles of white fish jelly, and garnish the
centre of the dish with the same fish jelly, chopped.

919— FILETS DE SOLES CHARLOTTE

Fold the fillets; poach them in fish fumet, and let them
cool.

Trim them ; coat them with pink chaud-froid sauce ; de-
corate each fillet by means of a rosette of chervil leaves, in the
centre of which rests a bit of lobster coral, and glaze them with
fish jelly.

Set them, tail end uppermost, against a m,ousse of milt
with horse-radish, moulded in a narrow dome-mould, which
should have been coated with fish jelly and besprinkled with
chopped coral.

Surround with a border of regularly-cut jelly dice.

920— FILETS DE SOLES A LA MOSCOVITE

Prepare (i) some paupiettes of filleted sole, in rings, as ex-
plained under " Filets de Soles a la Calypso " (No, 918); (2) as
many round, fluted cases made from hollowed cucumber as there
are paupiettes. The cucumber cases should be well blanched
and m,annaded inside. Set each paupiette in a cucumber case ;
garnish their centre with caviare, and arrange them in a circle
on a dish.

Send a sauce Russe to the table, separately, at the same
time as the dish.

3IO GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

921— DOMINOS DE FILETS DE SOLES

Select some fine, fleshy fillets ; slightly flatten them ; poach
them in a little of the cooking-liquor of mushrooms, some
lemon juice and butter, and set them to cool under a light
weight. When the fillets are cold, trim them and cut them
into regular rectangles the size of dominoes.

Coat the rectangles with a maigre, white, chaud-f roid sauce ;
decorate them in imitation of dominoes, with little spots of
truffle; glaze them with cold, melted fish jelly, and put them
aside.

Pound the trimmings of the fish together with their weight
of caviare, and rub the whole through a fine sieve. Add to
this preparation half its weight of highly-coloured jelly, and
leave it to set in a somewhat deep and moderately-oiled tray,
the thickness of the preparation on the tray being not greater
than that of a fillet of sole.

When the jelly is set, cut it into rectangles exactly the same
size as the prepared dominoes, and then, by means of a little
melted, cold jelly, fix the diminoes of sole to the rectangles
just prepared.

Put some chopped jelly in the centre of the dish, and on
this lay the dominoes in a muddled heap.

922— FILETS DE SOLES FROIDS DRESSES SUR MOUSSES

What I pointed out above, I repeat here for the reader's
guidance — namely, that fillets of sole may be prepared after
all the recipes given for trout (No. 813).

As the fillets of sole in this dish remain very conspicuous,
it is advisable to keep them very white in the poaching. Set
them to cool under a light weight, and decorate them in a
way that will be in keeping with the mousse on which they are
dished. This mousse is set on a special dish, as already
explained, and the decorated fillets are laid upon it and covered
with melted jelly.

For the variation of mousses, see the table given under
No. 814.

923— TURBOT

Turbot is generally served boiled, accompanied by freshly-
cooked, floury potatoes, and the cases are exceptional when,
cooked in this way, it is dished with any other garnish.

All fish sauces may be served with turbot. When, for the
sake of variety, or in pursuance of the consumer's wishes, turbot
has to be braised or garnished, it is best to select a medium-

FISH 311

sized fish, i.e., one weighing from eight to twelve lbs., thick,
very fleshy, and white.

Unless expressly ordered, it is best to avoid surrounding the
piece with its garnish. Preferably, send the latter to the table
in a separate dish, as also the sauce. By this means the
service is expedited, and, more important still, the fish is
quite hot when it reaches the table. It is granted that the
sight of a dish containing a fine, richly garnished and taste-
fully arranged piece is flattering to the host, but it would be
a pity that the quality of the fish should thereby sufifer, more
particularly as the gourmet is not satisfied with sightliness
alone.

I explained at the beginning of this chapter, under " Boiled
Fish " (No. 776 and 779), the details relating to this method
of cooking, especially with regard to its application to turbot.
For the braising and garnishing of turbot, the reader is begged
to refer to the recipes concerned with chicken-turbot. These
recipes may be applied to turbot, provided the difference in
the size of the fish be taken into account in reference to the
time allowed for braising and the quantities of the garnishing
ingredients.

934— COLD TURBOT

Whether whole or sliced, cold turbot makes an excellent
dish, if the fish have not been cooked too long beforehand. It
will be found that turbot, especially when sliced, tends to
harden, crumple, and lose its flavour while cooling. It is there-
fore of the greatest importance that the fish should have just
cooled after cooking, and that the cooking-liquor should have
barely time to set; otherwise the evil effects of cooling, men-
tioned above, will surely ensue. When served, just cooled, with
one of the cold sauces suited to fish, turbot can vie in delicacy
even with such fish as salmon or trout, which are usually served

cold.

925— TURBOTINS (CHICKEN=TURBOTS)

Turbotins (chicken-turbots) may rank among the most deli-
cate and nicest of fish. Their varying sizes allow of their being
served either for three, four, or ten, or twelve people ; they are,
moreover, tender and white, and they lend themselves to quite
a vast nurhber of culinary preparations.

They may be served boiled, like the turbot; grilled; k la
Meuni^re; fried; au gratin, like the soles; or braised, like the
salmon and the trout. They are most often served whole,
garnished and with sauce ; but, in order to simplify the process,
they may be filleted, the fillets being poached and dished with
a garnish and the selected sauce.

312 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

Whatever be the method of preparing the chicken-turbot,
whether it be boiled, poached, or braised, the spine should
always be cut in one or two places. The gash should be
just in the middle of the back where the flesh is thickest, and
the fillets on either side of the gash should be partly separated
from the bone. The object of this measure is to prevent de-
formation during the cooking process and, also, to precipitate
the latter.

926— TURBOTIN A L'AMIRAL

Gash the back of the fish, and partly separate the under
fillets from the bones. Lay it on a grill, and moisten, suffi-
ciently to cover it, with previously-cooked court-bouillon with
Sauterne wine. As soon as the court-bouillon boils, allow the
fish to cook ten or twelve minutes for every two lbs. of its
weight.

This done, drain it; dish it, and coat it twice with melted,
red butter.

Now surround it with the following garnish, which should
be in proportion to the size of the fish, viz., little heaps of
large mussels and oysters, prepared k la Villeroy, and fried
at the time of dishing; small patties of crayfish tails; large
mushroom-heads grooved and cooked, and slices of truffle.

Serve, separately, (i) a timbale of potatoes a I'anglaise;
(2) Normande sauce, combined with one-sixth pint of reduced
court-bouillon per quart of sauce, finished with crayfish butter
and seasoned with cayenne.

927— TURBOTIN A L'ANDALOUSE

Cut it in the region of the back ; season it, and lay it in
a deep earthenware dish of convenient size, liberally buttered.
In the case of a chicken-turbot weighing two and one-half lbs.,
moisten with one-third pint of white wine and one-quarter pint
of fish fumet.

Finely mince two medium-sized onions, and toss them in
butter until they have acquired a yellow colour.

Peel, press and mince three tomatoes, and add thereto three
large, raw, sliced mushrooms. Cut two mild capsicums into
strips.

Spread the onion on the chicken-turbot; put the tomatoes
and the sliced mushrooms on top, and upon these arrange the
grilled strips of mild capsicum. Besprinkle moderately with rasp-
ings; lay one oz. of butter, cut into small pieces, on the top,
and set to cook gently in the oven.

FISH 313

Allow thirty minutes for the cooking. By reducing the
moistening-liquor, which has perforce absorbed some of the
gelatinous properties of the fish, the leason forms of itself.

928— TURBOTIN BONNE FEMME

For a chicken-turbot weighing from two to two and one-half
lbs. sprinkle on the bottom of a buttered tray one dessertspoon-
ful of chopped shallots, one pinch of concussed parsley, and
three oz. of minced mushrooms*

Cut the chicken-turbot in the back, and partly separate the
fillets from the boile ; lay it on a tray, and moisten with one-third
pint of white wine and one-third pint of fish fumet. Cook
gently in the oven, and baste frequently the while.

When the chicken-turbot is cooked, dish it and keep it hot.
Pour the cooking-liquor into a saut^pan ; reduce it to half, and
add three tablespoonfuls of fish velout6 and three oz. of butter.

Cover the fish with this sauce and the garnish, and glaze
quickly.

939— TURBOTIN COMMODORE

Poach the chicken-turbot in salted water.

Prepare the following garnish per one person : — Three large,
potatoes cut to the shape of hazel-nuts and cooked a I'anglaise ;
one medium-sized, trussed crayfish ; one quenelle of fish ; one
small lobster croquette; and one oyster prepared k la Villeroy.

All these products should be treated according to their
nature, and just in time to be ready for the dishing up. A
few moments before serving, drain the turbot ; dish it, and sur-
round it with the garnish detailed above, arranged in alternate
heaps.

Serve a Normande sauce, finished with anchovy butter,

separately.

930— TURBOTIN DAUMONT

Proceed exactly as directed under " Sole Daumorit " (No.
823), taking into account the size of the fish, and increasing
the sauce and the garnishing ingredients accordingly.

931— TURBOTIN FERMlfiRE

Sprinkle on the bottom of a buttered tray two minced
shallots, a few roundels of carrot and onion, some parsley stalks,
thyme, and bay.

Lay the chicken-turbot on these aromatics, and season
moderately. For a fish weighing two lbs. moisten with two-
thirds pint of excellent red wine; add one-half oz. of butter, cut
into small pieces, and poach gently, taking care to baste fre-
quently.

314 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

Meantime toss three oz. of minced mushrooms in three oz.
of butter. When the turbot is ready, drain it; dish it; sur-
round it with the tossed mushrooms, and keep it hot.

Strain the cooking-Hquor into a vegetable-pan, and reduce
it to half. Thicken it with a piece of manied butter the size of
a walnut; add three oz. of butter; pour this sauce over the
chicken-turbot and its garnish, and set to glaze quickly.

933— TURBOTIN A LA MODE DE HOLLANDE

Poach the chicken-turbot in salted water. Drain it, dish it,
and upon it lay a lobster cooked in court-bouillon. The shell
of the lobster should have been opened along the top of the
tail, and the meat of the tail should have been quickly sliced and
returned to its place.

Send to the table at the same time (i) a timbale of floury
potatoes, freshly cooked a I'anglaise; (2) a sauceboat containing
egg sauce with melted butter (No. 117).

933— TURBOTIN MIRABEAU

Poach the fish in court-bouillon with Sauterne wine, as
directed under " Turbotin k I'Amiral " (No. 926).

Drain it; dish it, and coat it in alternate bands with white
wine and Gen^voise sauces. Along the lines formed by the
meeting of the sauces lay thin strips of anchovy fillets placed
end to end. Decorate the bands of white sauce with slices of
truffle, and the bands of brown sauce with blanched tarragon
leaves.

934— TURBOTIN PARISIENNE

Poach the fish in court-bouillon with Sauterne wine. Drain
it, dish it, and round it arrange a border composed of alternate
slices of truffles and mushrooms. Coat the fish with white-wine
sauce, and surround it with trussed crayfish cooked in court-
bouillon.

N.B.— For fish k la Parisienne, the garnish of sliced truffles
and mushrooms may be set on the dish, either conspicuously
or the reverse; i.e., it may be laid round the fish and covered by
the sauce, or arranged in the form of an oval on the fish after
the latter has been sauced. In either case the slices of truffles
and mushrooms should be laid alternately.

935— TURBOTIN REQENCE

Poach the chicken-turbot in a sufficient quantity of pre-
viously-prepared court-bouillon with Chablis wine.

For a fish weighing three lbs. (enough for ten people), pre-
pare the following garnish : — Twenty small spoon-moulded

FISH 315

quenelles of whiting forcemeat with crayfish butter; ten poached
oysters (cleared of their beards) ; ten small mushroom-heads
(very white); ten truffles in the shape of olives, and ten poached
slices of milt.

Drain the chicken-turbot just before dishing it, and slip it on
to a dish. Surround it with the garnish detailed above,
arranged in alternate heaps, and serve a Normande sauce, fin-
ished with two tablespoonfuls of truffle essence per pint,
separately.

936— TURBOTIN S0UFFL6 A LA REYNIERE

Lay the chicken-turbot on its belly, and make two gashes
in its back, on either side of the spine, from the head to the
tail. Completely separate the fillets from the bones; cut the
spine at both ends ; carefully raise it from the underlying, ventral
fillets, and entirely remove it.

Season the inside of the fish, and garnish it with enough
fish motisseline forcemeat to give it a rounded appearance.
Close in the forcemeat by drawing the two separated fillets over
it ; turn the piece over, and lay it on a well-buttered, deep, oval
dish, the size of which should be in proportion to that of the
chicken-turbot.

Poach it gently, almost dry, with lid on, in fish fumet and
the cooking-liquor of mushrooms mixed, i.e., two-thirds pint of
the one and one-third pint of the other. This done, dish it
carefully, and lay a row of grooved and white mushroom-heads
down the centre of it. On either side put some very white,
poached milt, alternating the latter with whole anchovy fillets,
in such wise as to form an oval enframing the row of mush-
rooms.

Send to the table, separately, a sauce composed of Soubise
cullis and white-wine sauce, in the proportion of one-third and
two-thirds respectively, combined with the reduced cooking-
liquor of the chicken-turbot.

937— TURBOTIN FEUILLANTINE

Stuff the chicken-turbot after the method described in the
preceding recipe, but substitute lobster mousseline forcemeat
for that mentioned above.

Poach as directed above, and dish.

Coat the fish with lobster butter, made as red as possible,
from the carcass of the lobster whose meat has been used for
the forcemeat.

From head to tail and down the centre of the fish lay a row
of fine slices of truffle, letting them overlap each other slightly.

3i6 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

Frame the row of truffle with two lines of very white, poached
oysters, so placed as to form a regular oval.

Send to the table, separately, a fine Bechamel sauce seasoned
with cayenne.

938— COLD CHICKEN-TURBOT

My remarks relative to cold turbot apply here with even
greater force, for chicken-turbots are particularly well suited to
cold dishing.

The chicken-turbots to be served cold should not be too
small ; the best for the purpose would be those weighing four
lbs. or more.

In dismissing the subject I can but recommend cold chicken-
turbot as a dish admitting of the most tasteful arrangement and
decoration .

LOBSTER (HOMARD)

Whereas the ordinary lobster is a very favourite dish with
English gourmets, the spiny kind has scarcely any vogue. This
is no doubt accounted for by the fact that the former is not
only very plentiful, but also of excellent quality, while the
latter is comparatively scarce.

939— HOMARD A L'AM6RICAINE

The first essential condition is that the lobster should be
alijve. Sever and slightly crush the claws, with the view of
withdrawing their meat after cooking ; cut the tail into sections ;
split the carapace in two lengthwise, and remove the queen_(a
little bag jiear the head containing some graYfilL„ Put aside, on
a plate, ihe intestines and the coral, wEich will be used in the
finishing of the sauce, and seasori the pieces of lobster with
salt and pepper.

Put these pieces into a sautdpan containing one-sixth pint
of oil and one oz. of Jautter, both very hot. Fry them over
an open fireunnl the meat has stiffened well and the carapace is
of a fine red colour.

Then remove all grease by tilting the saut^pan on its side
with its lid on ; sprinkle the pieces of lobster with two chopped
shallots and one crushed clove of garlic ; add one-third pint of
wJiite wine, one-quarter pint of fi_gh fumet, a small glassful of
burnt brandy, one tablespoonful of rnetted meat-glaze, three
"^small, fresRf pressed, and chopped tomatoes (or, failing fresh
tomatoes, two tablespoonfuls of tomato puree), a pinch of con-
cassedjyarsleY , and a very little cayenne. Cover the saut^pan,
and set to cook in the oven for eighteen "or twenty minutes.

FISH 317

This done, transfer the pieces of lobster to a dish; withdraw
the meat from the section of the tail and the claws, and put
them in a timbale; set upright thereon the two halves of the
carapace, and let them lie against each other. Keep the whole
hot.

Now reduce the cooking-sauce of the lobster to one-third
pint ; add tKereto the intestines and the chopped coral, together
with a piece of butter the size of a walnut; set to cook for a
moment, and pass through a strainer.

Put this cullis into a vegetable-pan; heat it without letting
it boil, and add, away from the fire, three oz. of butter cut into
small pieces.

Pour this sauce over the pieces of lobster which have been
kept hot, and sprinkle the whole with a pinch of concassed and
scalded parsley.
r^'" "- 940— HOMARD A LA BORDELAISE

Section the live lobster as directed above.

Stiffen the meat and colour the carapace in a saut^pan with
two oz. of clarified butter. When the meat is quite stiff and
the carapace is red, pour away two-thirds of the butter. Then
add two tablespoonfuls of chopped shallots, a crushed piece
of garlic the size of a pea, one-sixth pint of white wine, three
tablespoonfuls of burnt brandy, and reduce the whole to half.
Complete with one-half pint of fish fumet, one-third pint of
maigre Espagnole, one-quarter pint of tomato sauce, one small
faggot, one pinch of salt, and a very little cayenne.

Put the lid on, and set to cook for one-quarter hour.

Take the meat from the sections of the tail and the claws, as
in the case of the preparation k I'amdricaine ; put these into
a small saut^pan, and keep them hot. Add the intestines and
the chopped coral, reduce the sauce to one-third pint; pass it
through a strainer, and pour it over the pieces of lobster.

Heat the whole without boiling; add a few drops of lemon
juice, two and one-half oz. of butter cut into small pieces, and
one-half tablespoonful of chopped chervil and tarragon, and
stir over the stove with the view of thoroughly mixing the
whole.

Dish as directed in the preceding recipe.

941— HOMARD BOUILLI A LA HOLLANDAISE

Cook the lobster in a court-bouillon (No. 163), allowing
twenty minutes for a specimen weighing two lbs.

As soon as the lobster is cooked, drain it; split it in two
lengthwise without completely severing the two halves; lay it

31 8 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

on a long dish covered with a napkin, and surround it with
very green, curled-leaf parsley.

Serve with it, at the same time, a timbale of floury potatoes
freshly cooked a I'anglaise, and a sauceboat of melted butter.

942— HOMARD A LA BROCHE

Select a lobster that seems full of life, and, after killing it,
fix it on the spit. Put into the dripping-pan six oz. of butter,
one-half bottle of champagne, salt, and peppercorns. In order
to cook it to perfection, frequently baste it with this mixture, and
allow one hour before a red fire for a specimen weighing three
lbs. It may be dished with two accompaniments :■ —

1. A hot ravigote sauce combined with the gravy of the
lobster, from which all grease has been removed.

2. Strain the contents of the dripping-pan (cleared of all
grease) through a fine sieve ; reduce it by a quarter over a brisk
fire ; add three tablespoonfuls of meat-glaze, two tablespoonfuls
of Worcestershire sauce, and a little chopped parsley, and finish
this sauce with three oz. of butter and a few drops of lemon
juice.

943— HOMARD CARDINAL

Plunge the live lobster into boiling court-bouillon, and cook
it after the manner directed under " Homard k la Hollandaise "
(No. 941).

The moment it is cooked, cut it in two lengthwise ; withdraw
the meat from the tail, slice it, and keep it hot in a little Cardinal
sauce. Disconnect the claws; open them sideways, and with-
draw all their meat without breaking them. Cut the withdrawn
meat into dice, as also the creamy parts from the carapace, and
add thereto their weight of cooked mushrooms and half that
quantity of truffles — both of which products should also be in
dice. Thicken this salpicon with a few tablespoonfuls of lobster
sauce, and spread it in even layers on the bottom of each half-
carapace.

Reserve, however, two tablespoonfuls of it for garnishing
the emptied claws.

Upon the salpicon lay the slices of lobster, kept hot, alter-
nating these with fine slices of truffles. Set the two half-
carapaces, thus garnished, on a dish, and wedge them upright
by means of the two claws.

Coat the slices and the claws with Cardinal sauce; sprinkle
with grated cheese and melted butter; set to glaze quickly in a
fierce oven or at the salamander, and serve instantly.

FISH 319

944— HOMARD CLARENCE

Cook the lobster in court-houillon, and drain it as soon as
it is done.

When it is only lukewarm, split it open lengthwise ; take
the meat from the tail ; slice it, and keep it hot in a vegetable-
pan with a few drops of fish fumet or the cooking-liquor of
mushrooms.

Remove the remains of meat and the creamy parts from the
carapace; pound the two former together with two tablespoon-
fuls of cream ; strain through a fine sieve, and add to the re-
sulting cullis one-half pint of Bechamel sauce with curry.

Garnish the two half-carapaces, two-thirds full, with rice
a rindienne; set the slices of lobster on this rice, intercalating
them with slices of truffle; coat thinly with the prepared
Bechamel sauce, and set the two garnished and sauced half-
carapaces on a long, hot dish.

Send to the table, at the same time, a sauceboat containing
Bdchamel with curry.

945— HOMARD A LA CRfeME

Proceed as for " Homard h la New-burg k cru " (No. 948),
but swill with brandy ouIy; and add, immediately, four oz. of
fresh, peeled truffles cut into slices.

Moisten, almost sufficiently to cover, with very fresh, thin
creani; season with salt and cayenne, and cook the lobster.
Then take the meat from the carapaces, and put it into a
timbale ; reduce the cream to one-third pint, and mix therewith
three tabl^spoonfuls of melted, white meat-glaze and a few drops
of lemon juice.

' btram tills sauce through muslin, and pour it over the
pieces of lobster.

946— HOMARD QRILL^

For this purpose, the lobster may be taken raw, but it is
better, first, to have it three-parts cooked in court-bouillon.

Now split it into two lengthwise; sprinkle it with melted
butter, and set it on the grill for its cooking to be completed.

Treated thus, the meat of the lobster does not harden as
when it is grilled raw. Dish the grilled lobster on a napkin
or on a drainer, after having broken the shell of the claws in
order to facilitate the withdrawal of the meat, and surround with
curled-leaf parsley.

Serve a " Devilled sauce Escoffier," or any other sauce
suited to grilled fish, with the lobster, but remember that the
first-named sauce is the fittest that could be found for this
particular dish.

320 GUIDE TO Modern cookerV

947— HOMARD A LA MORNAY, otherwise AU QRATIN

Proceed in all points as directed under " Homard Cardinal "
(No. 943), but substitute Mornay sauce for Cardinal.

Homard A la New-burg

This dish may be prepared in two ways — with raw lobster
and with the latter cooked some time beforehand. The second
way is the more correct, but the first, which is less troublesome
to prepare, is more suited to the work of large establishments.

948— HOMARD A LA NEW-BURG (with raw lobster)

Cut up the live lobster, and fry it in oil and butter as ex-
plained under " Homard k I'Am^ricaine." When the pieces
of lobster are stiffened and coloured, clear them of all grease;
swill the saut^pan with one tablespoonful of burnt brandy and
one-half pint of Marsala.

Reduce by a third ; season, and add two-thirds pint of cream
and one-sixth pint of fish fumet. Cover and set to cook for
fifteen minutes.

Take out the pieces of lobster; withdraw the meat there-
from, and keep it hot in a covered timbale. Thicken the sauce
with the reserved intestines and coral of the lobster, which
should be chopped in combination with one oz. of butter.

Set to boil a second time ; rub the sauce through tammy, and
pour it over the pieces of lobster.

949— HOMARD A LA NEW-BURQ (with the lobster cooked)

Cook the lobster in court-bouillon. Remove the shell from
the tail ; take the meat therefrom, and cut it into regular slices.
Lay these slices in a liberally-buttered saut^pan, season
strongly, and heat the slices on both sides until the outside
membrane acquires a fine red colour.

Moisten with enough Madeira to almost cover the slices, and
reduce the moistening almost entirely. When dishing up, pour
a leason, composed of one and one-quarter pints of cream and
two egg-yolks, over the slices. Stir gently on the side of the
fire until the thickening has been effected by the cooking of the
egg-yolks, and serve in a lukewarm timbale.

950— HOMARD A LA PALESTINE

Cut up the live lobster and toss it in butter with a mirepoix

prepared in advance, as for crayfish intended for potage bisque.

Moisten with two-thirds pint of white wine, one pint of

Pish 321

fish fumet, and three tablespoonfuls of burnt brandy. Cover
and cook for fifteen minutes.

Now detach the sections of the tail and the claws; withdraw
the meat from them, and keep them hot in a small covered
saucepan with a little butter. Pound the carapace and remains
of the lobster in a mortar; fry them in four tablespoonfifls of
very hot oil, and add thereto an ordinary mirepoix, cut very
fine. Moisten with the cooking-liquor of the lobster, and set
to cook for one-quarter hour. Strain through muslin ; leave
to stand for five minutes, that the oil may rise to the surface,
and then completely remove it. Reduce this liquid to one-
quarter pint; thicken it with the reserved creamy parts of the
lobster, rubbed through tammy, and two tablespoonfuls of
fish velout^, and finish this sauce with two and one-half oz.
of curry butter.

Arrange a border of pilaff rice (No. 2255) on the dish
intended for the lobster; set the pieces of lobster, kept hot, in
the centre, and coat these with a few tablespoonfuls of curry
sauce.

Serve the remainder of the sauce separately.

951— M0USSELINE5 DE HOMARD

In the matter of crustaceans, the term mousse stands, as a
rule, for a cold preparation, whereas the term mousseline is
only applied to warm dishes. The special mousselines or
quenelles of lobster are made with a mousseline forcemeat, the
recipe for which I gave under No. 195. This forcemeat is pre-
pared with the raw meat of the lobster.

As with the other crustaceans, their meat produces forcemeat
which is somewhat too flimsy to be spoon-moulded, and it is
preferable to goach it in special well-buttered quenelle- or
dariole-m,oulds .
y^ Mousselines are poached under cover in a moderate oven.^" —

All the garnishes and sauces given in respect of salmon
m,ousselines may be applied here. The reader will therefore
refer to : —

Mousselines de Saumon Alexandra (No. 798).

Mousselines de Saumon k la Tosca (No. 799).

952— SOUFFLES DE HOMARD

For lobster souffles the same forcemeat is used as for the
mousselines; but, unlike the latter, it is poached in the half-
carapaces of the lobster, the meat of which has served in its
preparation. The procedure is as follows: — First cook the
two half-carapaces carefully, that they may not lose their
shape in the process.

Y

322 GUIDE TO MODEilN COOKERY

After having drained and dried tiiem, fill them with mousse-
line forcemeat and surround them with strong, buttered paper,
which should be tied on with string, and should overreach the
edges of the carapaces by one inch.

The object of this measure is to prevent the forcemeat from
spilling during the poaching.

Lay the two garnished carapaces on a tray containing just
enough boiling water to moisten its whole surface. Put the
tray in a moderate oven or in a steamer, and allow from fifteen
to twenty minutes for the souffle to poach.

This done, carefully drain the two carapaces; remove the
paper holding in the forcemeat; dish them on a napkin, and
surround them with bunches of very green, curled-leaf parsley.
Serve separately a sauce in keeping with the preparation ; i.e., a
Normande, a White-wine, a Diplomate, or a Bechamel finished
with lobster butter, &c.

N.B. — The above constitutes the model-recipe of lobster
souffle, and I need scarcely point out that the latter may be
varied almost indefinitely in accordance with the fancy of the
cook and the taste of the consumer.

Thus the forcemeat may be garnished with truffles in dice,
slices of lobster, milt, or poached oysters, &c., which garnishes
may also be laid on the souffle when it is finished. I therefore
leave to the operator, who should now see his way quite
clearly, the task of imagining the various possible combinations,
a description of which would but unnecessarily delay the pro-
gress of this work.

953— COLD LOBSTER WITH VARIOUS SAUCES

Cook the lobster in court-bouillon, and let it cool in the
latter. Drain it, sever the claws, and break them open in order
to withdraw their meat. Split the lobster into two lengthwise,
remove the intestines and the queen, and dish it on a napkin.
Lay the claws on either side of it, and surround it either with
curled-leaf parsley or with a few hearts of lettuce.

Send to the table separately one of the derivative sauces of
the Mayonnaise (Nos. 123 to 132).

954— ASPIC DE HOMARD

Under " Aspic de filets de soles " (No. 915), I pointed out
the preparatory principles of an aspic; in this case, therefore,
I shall only refer to the various details very cursorily.

Let a thin coating of white fish jelly set on the bottom of
an aspic-mould incrusted in ice. The reader is reminded of
the great care that must be observed in the preparation of an

FISH 323

aspic jelly, that the latter be limpid, succulent, and just suffi-
ciently firm hot to break when withdrawn from the mould.
Decorate the bottom of the mould with bits of truffle, poached
white of egg, lobster coral, capers, and tarragon leaves.

The decorative design cannot be described; it must be left
to the taste and fancy of the operator.; all I can urge is that
it be as regular and symmetrical as possible.

Fix the decoration iSy means of a few drops of jelly; then
cover the whole with a thickness of one inch of the same jelly,
and leave the latter to set. Upon this layer of jelly arrange
rows of thin slices of lobster meat and slices of truffles placed
alternately and slightly overlapping. Now add enough jelly
to cover these slices, and continue filling up the mould with
varying layers consisting respectively of jelly (one inch thick)
and the slices above described.

When about to serve, dip the mould in hot water; dry it,
and turn out the aspic upon a dish covered with a napkin.

955— CbTELETTES DE HOMARD ARKANQEL

Prepare a salpicon of lobster meat in dice combined with
its weight of caviare, the whole quantity being in proportion
to the number of cotelettes required.

Thicken the salpicon with an equal quantity of lobster
mousse (No. 956), and at once garnish some moderately oiled
cutlet-moulds with the preparation. As soon as the latter has
set, turn out the cutlets; coat them with a fish chaud-froid
sauce, finished with lobster butter; and deck each with a fine,
grooved slice of truffle. Glaze them with cold melted jelly,
and keep them in the cool until required to be served.

Arrange them in a circle on a round dish ; garnish the centre
with chopped white jelly, and serve a Russian salad separately.

956— MOUSSE DE HOMARD

Cook the lobster in a few tablespoonfuls of previously-
prepared fine mirepoix, one half-bottle of white wine, and a
small glass of burnt brandy. Leave to cool in the cooking-
liquor. Now split the lobster in two, with the view of with-
drawing its meat. Finely pound the latter while adding thereto,
little by little, one-third pint of cold fish velout6 per lb. of
meat. Rub through a sieve; put the resulting pur^e in a
vegetable-pan lying on ice, and stir for a few minutes. This
done, add a little good fish jelly, melted and cold, and one-
third pint of barely-whipped cream. Taste; rectify the season-
ing, and warm it slightly with cayenne.

Y 2

324 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

957— MOUSSE DE HOMARD MOULEE

When the mousse is intended for moulding, it is well to
decorate and " clothe " the mould with fish jelly some time in
advance. I have already explained that to " clothe " a mould
with jelly, all that is needed is to pour therein a few table-
spoonfuls of melted jelly, and then to rock the utensil on
ice. By this means a thin even coating sets on the bottom
and sides of the mould, which, when the moulding is turned
out, swathes the latter in a transparent film.

This " clothing " of jelly may be made more or less thick,
according to the requirements, by simply using more or less
jelly, and by proportionately lengthening or shortening the
time for rocking the mould.

When the mould is clothed, decorate the sides with large
slices of very black truffle dipped in melted jelly, that they
may stick.

This done, fill the receptacle with the prepared mousse (see
the preceding recipe), and leave to set in the cool.

For the turning out of the mould and the dishing of the
moulding, proceed as for the aspic.

9S8— PETITES MOUSSES DE HOMARD

For these small mousses, use little cassolettes or silver tim-
bales. First let a thin layer of jelly (one or two tablespoonfuls,
according to their size) set on the bottom of each utensil,
and then surround the latter with bands of white paper, the ends
of which should be stuck together, and should reach one inch
above the brims of the cassolettes. The preparation of mousse
may now be placed in the cassolettes in a sufficient quantity
to overflow the brims, so that, when the paper is removed,
their appearance is that of small souffles.

When the cassolettes have been garnished, put them aside
on ice or in a refrigerator until they are served.

959— HOMARD A LA QRAMMONT

Split the lobster open lengthwise down the middle. With-
draw the meat from the tail ; trim it, and cut it into regular
collops. Coat the latter again and again with aspic jelly, that
they may be well covered with it; decorate each with a slice of
truffle, and glaze it with the same aspic.

Also coat with jelly as many very white poached and dried
oysters as there are collops.

Now take the creamy parts and the meat of the claws, and
pound them finely with one tablespoonful of cold Bechamel

FISH 325

sauce; rub through a sieve, and, with the resulting pur^e com-
bined with melted fish jelly and cream (see lobster mousse No.
956), prepare a mousse " au paprika " of a decided pink colour.

Fill the two half-carapaces to their edges with this mousse,
and leave it to set on ice.

When about to serve, lay the collops, glazed with jelly, upon
this m,ousse, and place an oyster between each pair. Dish the
two garnished half-carapaces, back to back, upon a napkin,
and put the heart of a lettuce in the middle, and a bunch of
curled-leaf parsley at either end.

Serve a mayonnaise or other cold sauce separately.

960— HOMARD A LA PARISIENNE

Tie a lobster to a little board; stretch out its tail to the
fullest extent; cook it in court-bouillon, and leave it to cool in
the latter.

When it is quite cold, with the help of scissors, carefully
cut a strip of the shell from the back of the head to the tail.
The aperture left by the removed strip of shell ought to be
sufficiently wide to allow of the meat of the tail being removed
without breaking it. Having emptied the tail, refill it with
salad leaves, and return the strip of shell (upside down) to its
place. Cut the meat of the tail into even collops, and lay on
each a roundel of truffle stamped out with the fancy-cutter, and
dipped in half-melted jelly. Then coat these slices, which
should be on a dish, again and again, with cold melted jelly
until they are well covered with it.

Now break the claws and remove their meat, as also that
remaining in the carapace, and cut both meats into dice. Take
the creamy parts, and rub them through a sieve.

Prepare a small vegetable salad; add thereto the meat dice,
and cohere the two with a mayonnaise sauce combined with
melted jelly and the creamy parts rubbed through a sieve.
When the salad begins to set, owing to the jelly contained in
the mayonnaise, garnish twelve small artichoke-bottoms with
it, arranging the salad in them in pyramid form. Set a bit of
truffle on each pyramid, and sprinkle the salad with melted
fish jelly in order to make it glossy.

Dishing. — Dish the lobster on a cushion of buttered bread
on which a julienne of lettuce has been stuck, or on one of
carved rice. The cushion should have the shape of a wedge,
in order that the lobster may lie at an angle of about 45", with
its head raised, when laid upon it. Arrange the slices (slightly
overlapping one another) along the back of the lobster, be-

326 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

ginning at its head with the smallest of them, and progressing
down towards the tail, gradually increasing their size.

Surround the lobster alternately with artichoke-bottoms gar-
nished with salad, and quartered hard-boiled eggs, or halved
hard-boiled eggs (set upright with their yolks facing outwards).

Border the dish with very clear jelly in large cubes or
triangles, etc.
961— HOMARD A LA RUSSE

Proceed exactly as above with regard to the cooking of the
lobster, the extraction of the meat, and the cutting of it into
slices. Coat the slices with mayonnaise sauce combined with
melted jelly; or, better still, with a white fish chaud-froid
sauce combined with the lobster's creamy parts rubbed through
a sieve.

Decorate each slice with a bit of coral and two little chervil
leaves ; coat them again and again with cold melted aspic, and
put them aside in the cool. " Clothe " ten dariole-moulds, and
decorate the bottom of each with a slice of truffle. Also prepare
ten hard-boiled eggs.

Prepare a Salade Russe (without meat) ; add to this the
remains of the lobster meat cut into dice, and thicken with
mayonnaise and melted aspic, mixed. With this thickened salad
fill the dariole-moulds, and leave to set in the cool.

Dishing. — Set the lobster on a cushion, after the manner of
the preceding recipe. Trim the slices, and lay them, as before,
on the lobster's back, taking care to graduate their sizes. Sur-
round the lobster with the small moulded salads, and alternate
these with the hard-boiled eggs. The latter should be cut in
two at a point one-third of their height above their base; their
yolks should be removed, the space filled with caviare moulded
to the form of a pyramid, and, this done, the eggs should be
set upright.

Border the dish with roundels of very clear fish jelly, stamped
out by a fancy-cutter, and lay a bit of truffle upon each.

N.B. — (i) The moulds of salad must, of course, be dipped
in hot water before being turned out.

(2) The lobster may also be served " k la N6va," " k la
Moscovite, " " kla Sib6rienne," &c., but these preparations are
only minor forms of " Homard h la Russe" under different
names.

Changes may be effected in the preparation by altering the
constituents of the salad and its dishing. It may, for instance,
be made in small cucumber or beetroot barquettes, while the
caviare, instead of being laid in hard-boiled eggs, may be served
in little pleated cases.

FISH 327

As these preparations, however, are based neither on fixed
principles nor on classical rules, I shall refrain from giving
them.

962— MAYONNAISE DE HOMARD

Proceed as for Mayonnaise de Saumon — that is to say, gar-
nish the bottom of a salad-bowl with ciseled lettuce leaves, and
season them moderately.

Upon this salad lay the remains of the lobster, and upon
the latter place the thin slices of the tail. Cover with mayon-
naise sauce, and decorate with strips of anchovy fillets, capers,
olives, hard-boiled eggs, roundels of pink radishes, the hearts of
lettuce, &c.

N.B. — I have already pointed out the futility of prescribing
a decorative design. As a rule, the matter is so intimately con-
nected with the taste and fancy of the individual, and the
products used for the purpose lend themselves to such inde-
finite variation, that I prefer merely to enumerate these products,
and to leave the question of their arrangement to the artistic
ingenuity of the operator.

963— SALADE DE HOMARD

See " Salade de Saumon" (No. 810). As the preparation
and seasoning of the latter are identical with those of the dish
under consideration, all that is needed is to replace the salmon
of recipe No. 810 by the collops of lobster.

Spiny Lobsters. CLangouste.')

All culinary preparations dealing with lobsters may be
adapted to spiny lobsters. There is, therefore, no need to
repeat them here. Of the cold recipes, two are much better
suited to the spiny than to the ordinary kind, though, as they
are used for both specimens, I gave them earlier in the book.
The two recipes referred to are : —

964— LANQOUSTE A LA PARISIENNE; see LOBSTER,

recipe 960.
965— LANQOUSTE A LA RUSSE ; see LOBSTER, recipe 961.

Crayfish. (Ecrevisses.)

When crayfish are prepared after one of the recipes most
commonly used on the Continent, i.e., whole, they are not much
relished in England. This is doubtless accounted for by the
fact that ladies, dining in evening dress, find them somewhat
difficult to manage.

They are therefore only served in the form of an aspic, a

328 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

mousse, mousselines, timbales, &c., or as the garnish of some
other fish ; for in all these cases they are shelled.

Be all this as it may, I give below the various recipes re-
lating to them, and from among these it ought to be possible to
choose one which will meet the requirements of any particular
case.

966 ECREVISSES A LA BORDELAISE

N.B. — Whatever be their _mode of preparation, crayfish
should always be thoroughly cleansed and cleared of their in-
testines, the extreme end of which is to be found under the
middle of the tail. In order to remove the intestines, take the
telson or tail-segment between the point of a small knife and
the thumb, and pull gently. If this were not done, the in-
testines, especially in the breeding season, might render the
crayfish disagreeably bitter.

As soon as their intestines have been removed, the crayfish
should be set to cook, otherwise, i.e., if they be left to wait,
their juices escape through the anal wound, and they empty.

For twelve crayfish, after having cleaned and eviscerated
them, put them into a vegetable-pan with one tablespoonful
of very fine mirepoix, completely cooked beforehand, and two-
thirds oz. of butter. Toss them over an open fire until the
shells have acquired a fine, red colour. Moisten with three
tablespoonfuls of burnt brandy and one-quarter pint of white
wine; reduce by a third, and complete with one tablespoonful
of Espagnole, two tablespoonfuls of fish fumet, the same quan-
tity of tomato pur^e, and one spoonful of special mirepoix
(No. 229).

Put the lid on, and set to cook for ten minutes.

Dish the crayfish in a timbale ; reduce the sauce by a quarter,
and finish it with a few drops of meat glaze, one oz. of butter,
a very little cayenne, chopped chervil, and tarragon. Pour
this over the crayfish, and serve instantly.

967— 6CREVISSES A LA MARINIERE

In the case of twelve crayfish, toss them in two-thirds oz. of
butter over an open fire, until the shells are of a fine red. Season
with salt and pepper; add two finely chopped shallots, a bit
of thyme and a bit of bay; moisten with one-third pint of
white wine; cover; cook for ten minutes, and dish in a timbale.

Reduce the cooking-liquor to half; thicken with two table-
spoonfuls of fish velout^ ; finish the sauce with one oz. of butter,
and pour it over the crayfish.

FISH 329

Sprinkle with a pinch of chopped parsley, and serve at
once.

968— ECREVISSES A LA NAQE

For twelve crayfish, ten minutes beforehand prepare a court-
bouillon of one-half pint of white wine, one-quarter pint of
fish jumet, a few roundels of carrot and onion, one stalk
of parsley cut into dice, a small pinch of powdered thyme and
bay, and a very little salt and cayenne pepper.

Put the crayfish into the boiling court-bouillon ; cover, and
leave to cook for ten minutes, taking care to toss the crayfish
from time to time.

When about to serve, pour the crayfish with the court-
bouillon and the aromatics into a timbale.

969— 6CREVISSES A LA LIEQEOISE

Cook the crayfish in court-bouillon as eJcplained in the pre-
ceding recipe. Dish them in a timbale, and keep them hot.
Strain the court-bouillon; reduce it by a quarter; add one oz.
of butter, and pour it over the crayfish.

Sprinkle with a pinch of concussed parsley.

970— MOUSSELINES D'ECREVISSES

What I said with reference to " Mousseline de Homard "
(No. 951) applies perfectly here, and my remarks relative to the
variation of the garnishing ingredients, which are the same as
those in No. 951, also hold good.

971— TIMBALE DE QUEUES D'ECREVISSES A LA NANTUA

For ten people prepare (i) a shallow timbale crust, and a
cover decorated with a design of leaves or some other orna-
mental treatment ; (2) toss sixty crayfish in butter with two
tablespoonfuls of very fine mirepoix cooked in butter before-
hand. When the crayfish are of a distinct red, moisten with
one glass of white wine and three tablespoonfuls of burned
brandy ; season with salt and cayenne pepper ; cover them, and
keep them on the side of the fire for ten minutes, taking care to
toss them again from time to time; (3) shell the tails and put
them into a small saucepan with twenty small quenelles
of whiting forcemeat, finished with crayfish butter; fifteen
small, grooved mushrooms, cooked and very white, and three
oz. of truffles in slices. Add a few drops of the mushroom cook-
ing-liquor to this garnish, and keep it hot; (4) pound the
remains and carcasses of the crayfish very finely ; add two-thirds
pint of cream sauce to the resulting pur6e; rub it through
tammy, and add it to the garnish ; (5) when about to serve, pour

330 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

this garnish into the timbale crust, which should be very hot,
and deck the top with a crown of fine slices of very black
truffle. Close the timbale with its cover, and dish it on a
napkin.

972— SOUFFLE D'lSCREVISSES A LA FLORENTINE

Make a preparation of Souffle au Parmesan (No. 2295A)
combined with two tablespoonfuls of crayfish cream per pint.
The cream is prepared after the manner of lobster cream (No.
295).

Put this preparation in a buttered timbale in alternate layers
separated by litters of sliced truffle and crayfish tails. Cook
the souffle after the manner of an ordinary one.

973— SOUFFLE D'ECREVISSES LEOPOLD DE ROTHSCHILD

Prepare a souffle as above, and add thereto a bare tablespoon-
ful of freshly-cooked asparagus and slices of truffle, and cray-
fish tails placed between the layers of the souffle preparation.
Cook as above.

974— S0UFFL6 D'jgCREVISSES A LA PI^MONTAISE

This is identical with No. 972, except that the ordinary
truffles are replaced by shavings of Piedmont truffles.

975— ASPIC DE QUEUES D'ECREVISSES A LA MODERNE

Cook twelve fine crayfish in accordance with the directions
under No. 996, but substitute champagne for the white wine.

Shell the tails; trim them evenly; cut them in two length-
wise, and keep them in the cool until they are wanted. Remove
the creamy parts from the carapaces of the crayfish ; add the
trimmings of the tails, the meat from the claws, and the
mirepoix in which the crayfish have cooked.

Pound the whole very finely in a mortar, and rub it through
a sieve. Put the resulting pur^e in a receptacle; add thereto
one-quarter pint of very cold, melted aspic, and three table-
spoonfuls of barely beaten cream. Leave this preparation to
settle.

Trim the crayfish carapaces; fill them with a little prepared
mousse, and decorate each carapace with a small roundel of
truffle.

Put the remainder of the mousse in the middle of a little
crystal bowl, and mould it to the shape of a cone, narrow to-
wards the base, and as high as possible.

Arrange the garnished crayfish carapaces on their backs in
the bowl around the cone of mousse, and set some crayfish
tails in superposed rings up the cone. The crayfish tails should

FISH 331

be dipped in half-melted jelly, that they may stick fast to the
cone. Lay a small, very round truffle on the top of the cone
to complete the decoration. This done, coat the whole again
and again by means of a spoon with half-melted, succulent,
clear fish jelly, and incrust the timbale in a block of ice, or set
it amidst the latter broken up.

976— MOUSSE D'ECREVISSES

For ten people cook thirty crayfish as for potage Bisque.
This done, remove the tails, and reserve a dozen fine carapaces.
Finely pound the remainder, together with the mirepoix in
which the crayfish have cooked, and add thereto one-half oz.
of butter, one oz. of red butter (No. 142), one-quarter pint of
cold fish velout^, and six tablespoonfuls of melted fish jelly.
Rub through tammy, and put the resulting pur^e in a sauce-
pan ; stir it over ice for two or three minutes ; add three-quarters
pint of half-beaten cream, and the crayfish tails cut into dice
or finely sliced.

Before beginning to prepare the mousse, line the bottom and
side of a Charlotte-mould with paper, that the mousse may be
moulded as soon as ready.

Pour the preparation into the mould, taking care to' reserve
enough for the twelve carapaces already put aside, and put the
mousse on ice or in a refrigerator until dishing it. Fill the
twelve trimmed carapaces with the reserved mousse, and decorate
each with a round slice of truffle. When about to serve, turn
out the mousse on a small, round cushion of semolina or rice,
one-half inch thick, lying on a dish. Remove all the paper,
and decorate the top of the mousse with a crown of fine slices
of truffle dipped in melted jelly, that they may be glossy.

Surround the semolina or rice cushion with a border of
chopped jelly, and arrange the garnished carapaces upon this
jelly, setting them almost upright.

N.B. — (i) Instead of being served on a cushion, the crayfish
mousse may be sent to the table in a deep silver dish with a
border of chopped jelly, and surrounded by the garnished
carapaces. The utensil is then laid on a flat dish in a bed of
broken ice, or it is incrusted direct in a block of carved ice.

(2) For the moulding of crayfish mousse, the mould may be
"clothed" with fish jelly and decorated with slices of truffle,
as directed under " Mousse de Homard moul^e " (No. 957).

A mousse prepared in this way may be either dished on a
semolina or rice cushion, or in a deep silver entree dish, as
described above.

332 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

976a— SUPRfeMES D'ECREVISSES AU CHAMPAGNE

Select forty medium-sized crayfish that seem full of life;
cooli them quickly in a highly-seasoned mirepoix, moistened
with one half-bottle of dry champagne. This done, shell them ;
trim their tails, and keep them in the cool in a small bowl.
Pound their shells as finely as possible with one-quarter lb.
of fresh butter, and put the resulting pur^e in a saucepan,
together with one-half pint of boiling velout^ containing four
or five leaves of gelatine, and the cooking-liquor of the cray-
fish passed through a fine strainer.

Set to boil for a few minutes, that the remains may exude
all their flavour; rub through tammy over a basin lying on
ice, and whisk the preparation in order to accelerate its cool-
ing. As soon as it begins to thicken, add one pint of half-
whipped cream to it. Then pour the whole into a silver or
porcelain timbale, taking care that the utensil be not more
than three-quarters full.

When the mousse has set, decorate the surface with the
reserved crayfish tails, to which are added, as a finish, bits
of truffle and chervil leaves. Cover the decoration with a thin
coating of easily-melting and amber-coloured fish jelly, and
put the timbale on ice. When about to serve, incrust it in a
block of carved ice, or place it on a silver dish with broken ice
all round.

977— MOUSSE D'ECREVISSES CARDINAL

For ten people cook the crayfish as explained in No. 976, but
take forty instead of thirty. Shell the tails; trim them and cut
them into dice. Prepare the mousse in the same way, but use
twice as much red butter. Garnish twelve carapaces after the
same manner, and decorate each with a slice of truffle.

Clothe a dome- or Charlotte-mould somewhat thickly with
jelly; garnish its bottom and sides with crayfish tails, pre-
viously dipped in half-melted jelly, and arranged in superposed
rows; and place the crayfish so that the tails of the first row
lie to the left, those of the second row to the right, and
so on. As often as possible, do this work before preparing
the mousse, in order that the latter may be put into the mould
as soon as ready.

When about to fill the mould, add twenty fine slices of
truffle to the mousse. Dish after one of the two methods
directed in the appended note to No. 970, and take care to dip
the mould quickly into hot water before attempting to turn out
its contents.

FISH 333

978— PETITS SOUFFLES FROIDS D'^CREVISSES

Prepare the crayfish mousse as directed under No. 976, and
replace the fish velout^ by cold Bechamel. The addition of
sauce is even unnecessary in this case, and the preparation may
be all the more delicate for consisting only of the crayfish cullis
and two tablespoonfuls of fish jelly.

For the moulding of these small souffles I can only repeat
what I said under " Petites Mousses de Homard " (No. 958).
Let a thin coating of jelly set on the bottom of the small
cassolettes or timbales used; garnish their insides with a band
of white paper, reaching one, inch above their brims ; stick the
end of this band with a little batter.

Now garnish the timbales with mousse, letting it project
above their edges to the extent of two-thirds of an inch, and leave
it to set in the cool. When about to serve, remove the band of
paper, holding in the projecting mousse, and the appearance
of the garnished timbales is exactly that of small, hot souffles.
Allow one souffle for each person.

979— SHRIMPS AND PRAWNS (Crevettes Qrises

et Crevettes Roses)

Prawns are chiefly used for hors-d'oeuvres, but they may,
nevertheless, be prepared in Aspics; Mousses; small cold
Souffles, &c.

As regards shrimps, their use is entirely limited to gar-
nishes, hors-d'ceuvres, and to the preparation of soups, shrimp
butters, and creams.

OYSTERS. (HUlTRES.)

Though oysters are nicer raw, there are so many culinary
preparations of which they form the leading constituent, and
such a number of garnishing uses to which they may be put,
that I feel compelled to mention some of these.

980— HUiTRES A LA FAVORITE

Poach the oysters (cleared of their beards) in their own
liquor, which should have been carefully collected when open-
ing them. Clean their hollow shells, and place them on a
tray covered with a layer of salt one-half inch thick. Garnish
them with Bechamel; upon the latter, in each shell, lay an
oyster decked with a slice of truffle; cover with the same
sauce ; besprinkle with grated Parmesan and melted butter, and
set to glaze quickly. Serve immediately.

334 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

981— HUITRES AU QRATIN

Open the oysters ; cut them free, and lay them in the hollow
halves of their shells, which should be incrusted in a layer of
salt covering a tray. On each oyster put a drop of lemon juice,
a pinch of fried bread-crumbs, a little melted butter, and a piece
of fresh butter the size of a pea.

Set the gratin to form in a fierce oven or at the salamander,
and serve immediately.

982— HUITRES A LA MORNAY

Poach the oysters, and allow two per shell.

Set the hollow shells, thoroughly cleansed, on a tray covered
with salt. Cover the bottom of the shells with Mornay sauce;
put two poached oysters into each ; cover with the same sauce ;
sprinkle with grated cheese and melted butter, and set to glaze
quickly. Serve instantly.

983— HUITRES SOUFFLEES

Make a preparation of SoufH6 au Parmesan (No. 2295A).
Slightly poach the oysters, clean their hollow shells, and set
these on a tray covered with kitchen salt. Spread a layer of the
preparation on each shell ; put an oyster thereon, and cover the
latter with the soufE16 au Parmesan.

Heat the base of the tray on the stove, and, when the souffle
begins to rise, put the tray in the oven, that the souffle may
cook and colour at the same time. Serve at once.

984— HuITRES A LA FLORENTINE

Poach the oysters. Set their hollow shells on a tray as
above; garnish the bottom of each of these with shredded
spinach stewed in butter; lay an oyster on the spinach in each
shell ; cover with Mornay sauce, and set to glaze quickly. Serve
immediately.

985— HUiTRES QRILLEES

Open the oysters, and leave them in their hollow shells ; lay
them (very straight) on a tray covered with salt, incrusting
them in the latter; besprinkle with a drop of lemon juice and
a little mignonette pepper and put them in a fierce oven, that
their top surfaces may be speedily poached.

Dish them on a napkin; pour a coffeespoonful of "Sauce
Diable Escoffier " over each,^ and serve directly.

986— QUENELLES D'HUITRES A LA REINE

With four oz. of chicken fillets and six raw oysters, prepare
a mousseline forcemeat in accordance with the directions given

FISH 335

under No, 195. Mould this forcemeat, by means of a table-
spoon, into large quenelles, in the centre of which lay two
cold poached oysters.

Poach these quenelles after the manner of ordinary mous-
selines. This done, drain them on a piece of linen; arrange
them in a circle on a round dish, and cover them with highly-
seasoned Supreme sauce. Decorate each quenelle with a fine
slice of truffle, and garnish the middle of the dish with some
asparagus-tops, cohered with butter.

987— BASS (Bar)

This excellent fish is very little knownj and, consequently,
rarely sought after in England.

The large specimens are served, boiled, with the same kind
of sauce as for turbot. The smaller ones are chiefly served k la
Meuni^re or fried.

988— BRILL (Barbue)

Served whole, brill may be looked upon as the understudy,
as it were, of the chicken-turbot, and all the preparations given
for the latter may be adapted to the former.

If it be preferred filleted, it may be treated after the recipes
given for fillets of sole. Hence for brill cooked whole refer
to chicken-turbot and the recipes Nos. 925 to 938, and for filleted
brill see recipes Nos. 865 to 922.

989— BLOATERS

Bloaters, or herrings partially dried in smoke, form one of
the nicest breakfast dishes. As a rule, they are simply grilled
over a moderate fire. It should be borne in mind that, as these
fish are only partially salted and smoked, they will not keep
very long.

COD. (CABILLAUD.)

If cod were less common, it would be held in as high esteem
as salmon ; for, when it is really fresh and of good quality, the
delicacy and delicious flavour of its flesh admit of its ranking
among the finest of fish.

990— CABILLAUD BOUILLI

Fresh cod is mostly served boiled, either whole, in sections,
or in dames, and the directions given under "The Boiling of
Fish " (No. 766) apply particularly to this fish.

Boiled fresh cod is always accompanied by its liver, poached
in salted water, and very floury potatoes, boiled at the last
minute, must always be sent to the table with it.

Served thus with an oyster sauce, a Hollandaise sauce, or

336 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

melted butter, fresh cod constitutes a Relev^ which would satisfy
the most exacting of gourmets.

991— CABILLAUD QRILL6

Cut the fish into slices one inch or two inches thick. Season
these slices ; dredge them ; sprinkle them copiously with
melted butter, and set them to grill, remembering to baste
them frequently the while with melted butter.

Serve them on a hot dish ; garnish them with slices of lemon,
and surround with bunches of parsley.

Send a Maitre-d' Hotel or Anchovy butter, or a grilled-fish
sauce to the table with the dish.

992— CABILLAUD FRIT

Cut some slices of fresh cod, from one inch to one and one-
half inches thick. Season them, treat them a I'anglaise, and
fry them sufficiently to allow of their being well cooked all
through. Dish them on a napkin with fried parsley and lemon,
and send a butter sauce (No. 66), a tartare sauce, or a tomato
sauce to the table at the same time as the fish.

993-CABILLAUD CREME QRATIN

For ten people take two lbs. of boiled fresh cod divided
into small pieces; clear these of all bones and skin, and keep
them hot in a little of their cooking-liquor.

Now, with the necessary quantity of Duchesse potatoes (No.
221), and by means of a piping-bag fitted with a grooved pipe,
lay a border, one and one-half inches high, round a dish, shap-
ing it in such wise that it is thickest at its base. The dish may
be either round or oval. Carefully gild this border with egg-
yolks.

This done, pour a few tablespoonfuls of Mornay sauce on
the dish ; lay thereon the drained pieces of cod, and cover the
latter with enough Mornay sauce to reach within one-third of an
inch of the brim of the border. If more sauce were used, it
would flow over the border during the process of glazing.

Sprinkle with grated Parmesan and melted butter; set to
glaze, and see that the border gets evenly coloured.

Serve the moment the dish is withdrawn from the oven.

N.B. — This mode of preparation is not restricted to fresh
cod. It may be applied to all other boiled fish — turbot, chicken-
turbot, brill, bass, salmon, &c.

994— CABILLAUD A LA FLAMANDE

Cut the fresh cod into slices one inch thick ; season them with
salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and put them in a saut^pan or a

PISH 337

deep, liberally-buttered tray. Moisten with white wine to the
height of the slices; add chopped shallots and " fines herbes,"
and garnish the fish with roundels of pipped lemon, peeled to
the pulp.

Set to boil, and then poach in the oven for twelve minutes.
Place the slices on a dish; thicken their cooking-liquor with
crushed biscotte; cook it for five minutes; pour it over the
slices, and serve.

995— CABILLAUD A LA PORTUQAISE

For ten people, cut five slices of fresh cod, each weighing
one-half lb., and season them with salt and pepper. Put these
slices into a saut^pan containing the following garnish, Into
which they should be pressed : — Three oz. of butter and one-
sixth pint of oil ; one large onion, chopped and lightly coloured
in butter ; a bit of crushed garlic the size of a pea ; one faggot ;
two pinches of concassed parsley; eight medium-sized, peeled,
pressed, and minced tomatoes, and one-third pint of white wine.

Cover the saut^pan, and set to boil on an open fire for five
minutes.

Now take the lid off the saucepan, and leave it to cook for
twelve minutes on the side of the fire, in order that the liquid
may be reduced and the fish cooked at the same moment of
time.

Set the slices on a long dish ; withdraw the faggot, and pour
the garnish and the cooking-liquor over the fish.

996— LAITANCES DE CARPE (Carp's Milt)

The milt of a carp makes a very delicate dish. It is served
either as a second fish at a dinner; as a garnish to large fish
Relev^s, after having been poached in salted water; or cut
while raw into slices which are generally treated a la Meuniere.

997— LAITANCES A LA MEUNIERE

Prepare them whole or in collops, in pursuance of the direc-
tions given under "The Cooking of Fish k la Meuniere"

(No. 778).

998— BARQUETTES DE LAITANCES A LA FLORENTINE

Poach the milts in salted water; cut them into small, long
slices, and set them in barquette crusts prepared in advance.

Cover the sliced milts with a souffle au Parmesan (No.
2295a), and shape the latter slightly after the manner of a dome.

Arrange the barquettes on a dish, and put them in a moderate
oven, that they may cook and the souffle be glazed at the same

z

338 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

time. When taking them out of the oven, dish them on a
napkin and serve immediately.

999— CAISSES DE LAITANCES A LA NANTUA

Poach the milts in salted water. Drain them, and cut them
into small slices thicker than their length.

Place these slices in small pleated porcelain cases with
two crayfish tails in each. Fill up the cases with Nantua sauce,
and lay a fine slice of truffle over the centre of each case.

looo— JOHN DORY (St. Pierre)

This fish, which is in the highest degree unsightly, is pos-
sessed of flesh whose firmness, whiteness, and delicacy are
of the rarest excellence; and, when quite fresh, its fillets are
certainly equal in quality to those of the chicken-turbot and
the sole.

Albeit the dory is not as popular as it deserves to be, and
this is owing either to its unsightliness, which may prejudice
the opinion of gourmets against it, to people's indifference with
regard to it, or to a mere trick of fashion.

While I admit its unpopularity, however, I should strongly
recommend all lovers of fish to give it a trial. Let them prepare
the dory's fillets after the recipes given under Fillets of Sole and
Chicken-turbot, and, provided the directions be properly carried
out, I venture to believe that the prevailing aversion to dory will
very soon be found to have no warrant in fact.

looi— FRESH HADDOCK (Eglefin)

This fish is chiefly eaten smoked, under the name of haddock.

When it is fresh, it may be prepared after the recipes given
for cod, to which it is quite equal in the matter of delicacy.

I002— SMELT (^perlans)

Owing to their small size, smelts only lend themselves to a
very limited number of preparations. They are usually served
either on little skewers or dished in a heap on a napkin, with
fried parsley and grooved half-lemons; those on skewers are
dished flat with the same garnish.

Large smelts may be treated after the recipes immediately
following.

1003— 6PERLANS A L'ANQLAISE

Open the smelts down the back and carefully bone, without
disfiguring them. Treat them a I'anglaise with fine bread-
crumbs, and pat them lightly with the flat of a knife, that the
bread-crumbs may adhere well.

FISH 339

Cook them in clarified butter; set them on a long hot dish,
and besprinkle them with half-melted butter h la Maltre-d'H6tel
(No. 150).

1004— EPERLANS AU QRATIN

Proceed as for " Merlans au Gratin " (No. 1018), but allow-
ing for the difference between the sizes of the two fish, put the
smelts in a fiercer oven than the whiting, in order that they may
be cooked simultaneously with the formation of the gratin.

1005— EPERLANS QRILLI6S

Open them down the back, and remove the bulk of their
spine, leaving a small piece only in the region of the tail, and
another small piece at the head. Season, dredge, and
sprinkle them with melted butter, and grill them quickly.

Set them on a long, hot dish ; surround them with slices of
lemon and bunches of fried parsley, and serve separately either
some half-melted butter k la Maitre-d'H6tel, or a sauce suited
to grilled fish.

1006— MOUSSELINES D'^PERLANS

Proceed exactly as for Mousselines de Saumon (No. 797).
To prepare the forcemeat, follow the directions under No. 195 ;
but note the following changes : — Of the whole quantity of the
meat of fish, that of the smelt should only measure one-third;
the other two-thirds should be supplied by the sole, dory, or
whiting.

The object of this disproportion has already been explained
under " Velout^ d'Eperlans " (No. 680). The flesh of the smelt
is of a much too decided flavour to be used alone, and when
this flavour dominates, it becomes positively disagreeable ; hence
the need of a fish whose flesh is almost neutral in so far as
taste is concerned. But this addition of a fish foreign to the
base of the preparation fulfils a double purpose; for, while it
effectually weakens the pungency of the smelt's flesh, it also
enables the whole preparation to absorb a much larger quantity
of cream, and this last circumstance can only allow of the
mousselines being lighter and mellower.

1007— MOUSSE CHAUDE D'EPERLANS A LA ROYALE

Take a Charlotte-mould, of a size in proportion to the
number of people to be served, and butter its bottom and sides.
Cover the bottom of the mould with a round piece of buttered
kitchen paper, and do the same on the sides.

Prepare the required quantity of smelts' fillets; slightly
flatten them in order to break their fibres, and trim them all to
the same length and width.

z 2

340 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

Then garnish the bottom of the mould with tlie fillets of
smelt, placing them so that their skin-sides are against the
mould. Between each of the fillets set a small strip of truffle,
one quarter of the width of the former.

Garnish the sides in the same way, putting a strip of truffle
between each; but take care to place the fillets aslant instead
of upright. Having thus lined the mould with fillets of smelt
and truffle, cover the whole with a layer of mousseline force-
meat, one-half inch thick.

Now fill the mould in the following way : — On the layer of
forcemeat covering the fillets at the bottom of the mould set
as many slices of truffle as will cover it; spread another layer
of forcemeat on the truffle, and over that lay, alternately, a
sufficient quantity of fillets of smelt and anchovy. Follow with
a fresh layer of forcemeat, slices of truffle, &c., until the mould
is full, and finish with a layer of forcemeat.

Poach the motisse (covered) in a moderate oven, and allow
fifty minutes for one prepared in a quart-mould. It is very
easy, however, to tell when the mousse is done, by simply
thrusting a small knife into it; if the blade of the knife with-
draws quite clean, the mousse is cooked.

As soon as it is ready, turn the mould upside-down on a
dish, and raise it a little in order to allow the liquid, which
always accumulates in more or less large quantities, to drain
away. Soak up this liquid; gently draw off the mould; take
oft" the paper, and remove the froth which may have formed on
the fillets by means of a wet brush.

Lay a fine, grooved mushroom on the top of the mousse ;
surround it with mousseline sauce (No. 92), finished with
crayfish butter, and send a sauceboat of the same mousseline
sauce to the table with the dish.

N.B. — This m,ousse may also be prepared with fillets of sole,
of salmon, or of trout, &c.
1008— HADDOCK

Sometimes the fish is grilled, but, after having boned it and
removed its fins and the greater part of its belly, it is more
often cooked in water or milk, either of which moistening is
usually short.

It is plunged in slightly salted boiling water, and then it
is moved to the side of the fire to poach, with lid on. Allow
about fifteen minutes for a fish weighing one and one-half lbs.

Dish it with a few tablespoonfuls of its cooking-liquor, and,
subject to the consumer's taste, serve some fresh or melted
butter separately.

FISH 341

When haddock is served at lunch, send to the table with
it an egg-sauce and a timbale of potatoes, freshly cooked a
I'anglaise.

Mackerel (Maquereau)
1009— MAQUEREAU BOUILLI, SAUCE AUX QROSEILLES

Cut the mackerels into three, crosswise, and poach them in
court-bouillon with vinegar (No. 163), seasoned with a pinch
of fennel per pint. Drain them on a napkin ; skin them, and
dish them with curled-leaf parsley all round.

With the mackerels serve a gooseberry sauce prepared as
follows : —

Green Gooseberry Sauce proper to Mackerel. — Cook one lb.
of green gooseberries in a copper sugar boiler with three oz. of
sugar and enough water to cover them, and then rub them
through tammy.

loio— MAQUEREAU GRILLE

Cut off the extremity of the mackerels' mouths; open them
down the back, without dividing them into two.

Season them ; sprinkle them with melted butter, and grill
them gently, taking care to baste them by means of a brush
with melted butter while they are cooking.

Set them on a round, hot dish, and sprinkle them with
half-melted butter a la Maitre-d' Hotel, after having drawn their
halves together, that they may seem natural and untouched.

Or surround them with grooved slices of lemon, and send
a " Sauce Diable Escoffier " to the table separately. This sauce
constitutes an excellent adjunct to grilled mackerel.

ion— FILETS DE MAQUEREAU AUX FINES HERBES

Raise some mackerels' fillets in such wise as to leave the
bones quite clean. Arrange the fillets on a buttered dish, and
poach them in white wine and the cooking-liquor of mushrooms
in equal quantities. Take care to cover them while they are
being poached.

This done, drain them; skin them; set them on a long
dish, and cover them with a herb sauce (No. 83), combined
with their cooking-liquor strained through linen and reduced.

1012— FILETS DE MAQUEREAU AU PERSIL

Raise the fillets as before, and poach them in a white-wine
court-bouillon with one-half oz. of parsley leaves per pint.
Drain them ; skin them ; set them on a long dish, and cover

342 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

them with a parsley sauce. This latter is an English butter
sauce (No. 113a) to which some freshly-chopped parsley is
added at the last moment.

1013— FILETS DE MAQUEREAU A LA V^NITIENNE

Poach the fillets in a court-bouillon with white wine. Drain
them ; skin them ; set them on a long dish, and cover them
with a Venetian sauce (No. 107).

Whiting (Merlan)

1014— MERLAN A L'ANQLAISE

Open the whitings down the back; loosen the spine, and
completely remove it. Season them inside, and treat them
a I'anglaise with very fresh and fine bread-crumbs.

Cook the whitings very quickly in clarified butter; set them
on a long dish, and sprinkle them with half-melted butter
k la Maitre-d'Hotel.

N.B. — Whitings a I'anglaise may also be grilled, but it is
preferable to cook them in clarified butter.

lo 15— MERLAN A LA BERCY

Slightly open the whitings down the back, with the view
of promoting their cooking process. Lay them on a buttered
dish sprinkled with finely-chopped shallots, and moisten
them with white wine and fish fumet. Add one-half oz. of
butter per whiting, and cook in the oven, basting often the
while. The moment when the whitings are quite done should
be coincident with the almost complete reduction of their
cooking-liquor.

Set to glaze at the last moment.

When taking the whitings out of the oven, sprinkle them
with a few drops of lemon juice and a little chopped parsley.

1016— MERLAN A LA COLBERT

Open the whitings down the back, and bone them. Season
them; dip them in milk; roll them in flour; and treat them
a I'anglaise. Fry them ; drain them ; set them on a long dish ;
garnish the openings in their backs with butter k la Maitre-
d'Hotel, and border the dish with grooved slices of lemon.

1017— MOUSSELINES DE MERLAN

For the preparation of the mousseline forcemeat, refer to
No. 195. The moulding and poaching of these mousselines

FISH 343

are the same as for salmon mousselines, and the preparations
suited to the latter may likewise be applied to mousselines de
merlans. (See Mousselines de Saumon, Nos. 797 to 799.)

ioi8— FILETS DE MERLAN AU QRATIN

Raise the fillets from some whitings, and leave the bones
quite clean. Lay them on a buttered dish besprinkled with
chopped shallots, the bottom of which should have been covered
with a few tablespoonfuls of gratin sauce. Surround the fillets
with slices of raw mushrooms; set two small, cooked mushrooms
upon each fillet; pour a few tablespoonfuls of white wine into
the dish, and cover the whole with gratin sauce.

Sprinkle with fine raspings and melted butter, and put the
dish in a sufficiently fierce oven to (i) reduce the sauce; (2) allow
the gratin to form ; and (3) cook the fillets at the same moment
of time. In respect of this operation, refer to Complete Gratin,
No. 269.

When taking the dish from the oven, sprinkle a little
chopped parsley and a few drops of lemon juice over it.

N.B. — If the whiting be treated whole, the procedure
remains the same.

1019— PAUPIETTES DE MERLAN AU QRATIN

Raise some fillets of whiting; coat them with a fish force-
meat combined with fine herbs, and roll them into scrolls. Set
these rolled fillets on a round, buttered gratin dish sprinkled with
chopped shallots, the bottom of which should have been covered
with gratin sauce.

Surround them with a border of sliced, raw mushrooms;
place a small, cooked mushroom on each fillet, and proceed for
the rest of the operation exactly as explained under " Filets de
Merlan au Gratin."

1020— MERLAN EN LORGNETTE AU QRATIN

Separate the fillets from the bones, proceeding from the tail
to the head, and completely remove the spine near the head.
Cover the fillets with fish forcemeat " aux fines herbes," and
roll them into scrolls with their tail-ends inside.

Set them on a round dish sprinkled with chopped shallots
and covered with gratin sauce, placing them side by side, all
round the dish, with the whitings' heads in the centre; and
proceed for the rest of the operation as explained under No.
1018.

N.B. — Whitings prepared in this way may be treated with
white wine, Dieppoise, Bercy, fried, ^C,

344 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

1021— FILETS DE MERLAN ORLY

Raise the fillets and proceed as for " Filets de Soles
Olga," No. 893.

I023— MERLAN SUR LE PLAT

Proceed as for " Sole sur le Plat," No. 837.

1023-MERLAN A LA RICHELIEU

Prepare six " Merlans k I'anglaise," No. 1014. Lay thereon
a few slices of truffle. Or dish them simply on their sides;
garnish their top surfaces with the butter prescribed above, and
put a row of truffle slices on the butter.

1024— MORUE AND SALTED COD (Morue et Cabillaud Sal6)

Salted cod bought in England has generally been fished
somewhere along the English coast, and is, as a rule, of
recent salting. It has not the peculiar flavour of the Icelandic
morue, or that of the Newfoundland specimens, and it does not
lend itself to such a large variety of preparations as these two.

At the end of each of the following recipes, I indicate the
kind of cod to which the procedure may be applied.

Morue, especially the Newfoundland kind, should be set
to soak at least twelve hours before being used, and the water
during that time should be frequently changed.

When about to cook it, suppress its fins, and cut it up in
a way befitting the selected mode of preparation.

Allow four oz. gross of the fish for each person.

1024a— SALTED COD AND MORUE A L'ANQLAISE

Put the fish into cold water ; set to boil, and as soon as this
point is reached, leave the fish to poach on the side of the fire
for fifteen minutes.

Drain, skin, dish on a napkin, and serve, separately, a
timbale of parsnips and an egg-sauce a I'Ecossaise.

Both kinds of cod may be used for this dish.

1025— MORUE A LA BENEDICTINE

Poach one and one-half lbs. of morue as above; drain it
and cut into small pieces, cleared of all skin and bone. Pound
it quickly while it is still hot, and add to it half its weight of
potatoes cooked as for a puree, drained, and dried in the oven
for a few minutes. When the whole has been reduced to a
fine paste, add one-sixth pint of oil, and one-quarter pint
of boiled milk. The oil and the milk should be added
little by little, and the paste should be more mellow than stiff.

FISH 345

Serve in a buttered gratin dish ; arrange ttie preparation in
tlie form of a dome ; sprinkle with melted butter, and set
to colour in the oven.

Icelandic and Newfoundland morue.

1026— MORUE AU BEURRE NOIR
OU AU BEURRE NOISETTE

Cut the morue into squares or rectangles; roll these into
paupiettes or scrolls, and bind these with a piece of string.
Poach them in the usual way; drain them; scrape their skins,
and dish them. Sprinkle with concussed parsley; add lemon
juice, and cover with brown or lightly-browned butter. Either
kind of cod may be used.

1027— BRANDADE DE MORUE

Cut one lb. of morue into pieces, and poach these for eight
minutes. The eight minutes should be counted from the time
the water begins to boil.

Drain on a sieve, and clear the pieces of all skin and bones.
Heat in a sautepan one-sixth pint of oil until the latter
smokes; throw the cleaned pieces of morue into the oil; add a
piece of crushed garlic the size of a haricot-bean, and stir over
a brisk fire with a wooden spoon until the morue is reduced to
shreds.

Then take the saucepan off the fire, and, without ceasing to
stir the paste, add thereto, little by little, as for a mayonnaise,
about one-half pint of oil. When the paste begins to stiffen
through the addition of the oil, now and again add a table-
spoonful of milk. For the amount of morue used, one-quarter
pint of boiling milk should thus be added by degrees.

When the Brandade is finished, it should have the consist-
ence of an ordinary potato purde. When about to serve, taste
the preparation, and rectify its seasoning.

Dish the Brandade in a hot timbale, building it up in the
shape of a pyramid, and set thereon a crown of bread-crumb
triangles fried in butter just before dishing up.

N.B. — The triangles of fried bread may, with advantage, be
replaced by lozenges made from puff-paste, which are baked
without colouration. For the Brandade use only well-soaked
Icelandic or Newfoundland morue,

1028— BRANDADE DE MORUE A LA CREME

Follow the directions given above, but instead of oil and
milk, use two-thirds pint of cream, which should be added to
the morue paste by spoonfuls.

346 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

I029— MORUE A LA CREOLE

Finely mince an onion, and cook it gently in butter until
it is of a nice golden colour. Spread it on the bottom of a
little oval earthenware dish, and set three tomatoes prepared
h. la Proven9ale (No. 2268) upon it.

Poach one lb of morue ; drain it as soon as ready, and flake
it while clearing it of all skin and bones. Lay this flaked
morue on the slices of tomato; cover it with three mild cap-
sicums, split and broiled; sprinkle the whole with a few drops
of lemon juice and one oz. of lightly-browned butter, and put
the dish in the oven for a few minutes. Serve very hot.

Icelandic or Newfoundland morue may be used.

1030— CABILLAUD SALE, OR MORUE A LA HOLLANDAISE

Proceed exactly as for " Sole h. la Hollandaise" (No. 829).
Both kinds suit this preparation.

103 1— CABILLAUD SALE, OR MORUE A L'INDIENNE

Poach one lb. of salted cod or morue, and flake it while
clearing it of all skin and bones. Mix this flaked fish with
two-thirds pint of Indienne sauce, and dish it in a hot timbale.

Serve some rice k I'lndienne separately.

Both kinds of fish are suited to this dish.

1032— MORUE A LA LYONNAISE

Poach one lb. of morue, and flake it as explained above.
Finely mince a medium-sized onion, and toss it in butter. Also
toss three medium-sized potatoes cut into roundels. Heat one
oz. of butter and two tablespoonfuls of oil in a frying-pan ; put
therein the flaked morue and the potatoes, and toss the whole
over a brisk fire for a few minutes.

When about to dish up, add a few drops of vinegar.

Dish in a hot timbale, and sprinkle the morue with a
pinch of chopped parsley. Use either the Icelandic or the
Newfoundland fish for this preparation.

1033— SOUFFLE DE MORUE

Finely pound one-quarter lb. of freshly poached and flaked
morue, and add thereto, little by little, two tablespoonfuls of
hot and very thick B6chamel sauce. When the paste is very
smooth, season it; put into a saucepan, heat it, and add the
yolks of three eggs, and four whites beaten to a stiff froth.

Put the whole' into a buttered souffle-saucepan, and cook
after the manner of an ordinary souffle. Take either Icelandic
or Newfoundland morue for this dish.

FISH 347

1034— CHAR (Ombre-Chevalier)

The char is a fish of the salmon family, which is
culinarily treated in exactly the same way as the trout. When
it is large, the recipes given for salmon trout may be adapted
to it, but it is mostly used small — that is to say, from five
inches to ten inches long. The fishing of char is restricted
chiefly to lake countries, such as Scotland and Switzerland, and
it is only in season during two months of the year. More-
over, as this fish loses much of its quality in transit, its scarcity
on the market will be easily understood. The lake of Zug, in
Switzerland, supplies the most famous specimens, which are
called Rothel by the people of the locality. The delicacy of
the fish is remarkable, and in this it may vie even with the
best river trout.

The char of the Scotch lakes may be treated after the same

recipes as the Swiss specimens, but they are more often used

in the preparation of potted char, the recipe for which is as

follows : —

1035— POTTED CHAR

Cook the chars in a fine mirepoix with white wine, exactly
after the manner of trout. When the fish are cooked, leave
them to cool completely in their cooking-liquor. Drain them ;
skin them; separate their fillets, and thoroughly bone them.
Set the fillets in a special earthenware pot; entirely cover them
with clarified butter, and put them in a moderate oven for one
quarter of an hour.

Leave them to cool until the next day, and add sufficient
clarified butter to cover them with a layer one-third inch thick.

If Potted Char be left in the cool, it will keep for some
considerable time.

RED MULLETS (ROUGETS)

Red mullet, especially the Mediterranean rock kind, is one
of the greatest fish delicacies known ; and the surname ' ' Sea
Woodcock," which gourmets sometimes give it, is quite justi-
fied, not only by its quality, but by the fact that, except for its
gills, it is generally left whole, and not even emptied.

It is best grilled.

io3Sa— GRILLED RED MULLET

Carefully wipe the mullet; cisel it on either side to a depth
in proportion to the thickness of its flesh and at closer intervals
the thicker the latter is, in order to facilitate the cooking ; season
it with salt and pepper ; sprinkle it with a little oil and a few
drops of lemon juice; spread a few slices of lemon and a few

348 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

parsley stalks upon and beneath it; and let it marinade for an
hour or two, turning it over frequently the while.

Twenty minutes before serving, set the red mullet on a
double fish grill, and cook it over a rather fierce fire,
sprinkling it often the while with its marinade. Dish and serve
it as soon as it is ready, and serve a little half-melted maitre-
d'hotel butter separately.

1035b— ROUQET A LA BORDELAISE

Grill or saute the red mullet. At the same time serve a
sauce Bordelaise Bonnefoy (No. 67).

1035c— ROUQET AU FENOUIL

Cisel and marinade the red mullet as directed under No.
1035a, and add a certain quantity of chopped fennel to the
aromatics. Twenty minutes before serving, add two oz. of
roughly-chopped raw pork fat and a little parsley to the
marinade ; wrap the red mullets in strong, oiled paper, together
with its marinade, grill it gently, and serve it as it stands.

io35d-ROUQET A LA NICOISE

Grill it as directed above, and serve it with the garnish
given under " Sole a la Niyoise."

10356— ROUQET EN PAPILLOTE

Grill and wrap it in strong, oiled paper between two layers
of somewhat thick Duxelle sauce. When about to serve, put
the papillote for five minutes in the oven, that it may be
souffled.

1036— WHITEBAIT

Thames whitebait, which has many points in common with
the " Nonat " of the Mediterranean, is one of the riddles of
ichthyology; for, while it is generally admitted that it is the
fry of one of the many species of fish, its real parentage is
quite unknown.

At dinners in London it usually stands as a second fish-
course, and, fried after the customary manner, it constitutes a
dish the delicacy of which is incomparable. Whitebait, like
the nonat, are extremely fragile, and ought to be cooked as
soon as they are caught. They are always served fried, and
the frying-medium used in their preparation should be fresh,
abundant, and just smoking when the fish are plunged into it.
Previous to this operation, however, the whitebait ought to
be thoroughly dredged with flour and placed in a special sieve

FISH 349

or frying basket, either of which should be well shaken, in
order to rid the fish of any superfluous flour.

They are then plunged into the smoking frying-medium,
in small quantities at a time, and one minute's stay therein
suffices to render them sufficiently crisp.

Draining is the next operation, effected upon a spread piece
of linen, that the fish may be easily seasoned with table-salt
and cayenne, mixed. This done, the whitebait are dished upon
a napkin and sent to the table with very green, fried parsley.

VARIOUS PREPARATIONS OF FISH

1037— JWATELOTE AU VIN ROUQE

The fish used for the Matelote are eel, carp, tench, bream,
perch, &c.

It may be prepared from one or many kinds of fish.

Put the fish, cut into sections, into a sautdpan. For two lbs.
of it, add one minced onion, one faggot, two cloves of garlic,
one pint of red wine, a pinch of salt, and another of pepper or
four peppercorns.

Set to boil ; add three tablespoonfuls of heated and burnt
brandy; cover the saut^pan, and complete the cooking of the
fish.

This done, transfer the pieces to another saucepan; strain
the cooking-liquor, reduce it by a third, and thicken it with
manied butter (consisting of one and one-half oz. of butter and
one tablespoonful of flour), cut into small pieces.

When the leason has been properly effected, pour the
resulting sauce over the pieces of fish; heat, and dish in a
timbale.

1038— MATELOTE AU VIN BLANC

Prepare the fish as above, but use red wine instead of
white, and burn the brandy as before. When the pieces of fish
are cooked, transfer them to another saucepan with small
onions, previously cooked in butter, and small, cooked mush-
rooms. Strain the cooking-liquor, reduce it to a little less than
half, thicken it with fish velout^, and finish with one oz. of
butter.

Pour this sauce over the fish and the garnish ; dish the whole
in a timbale or a deep dish, and surround with crayfish, cooked
in court-botiillon, and little crusts in the shape of hearts, fried
in butter.

350 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

1039— BOUILLABAISSE A LA MARSEILLAISE

The fish for Bouillabaisse are rascasse, chapon, dory,
whiting, fielas, boudreuil, spiny lobster, red mullet, gurnet,
&c.

Cut the larger fish into slices ; leave the smaller ones whole,
and with the exception of the whiting and the red mullet, which
cook more speedily than the others, put them all into a saucepan.

For two lbs. of fish, add one small onion, the chopped white
of one leek, one small, peeled, pressed and chopped tomato,
two crushed cloves of garlic, a large pinch of concussed parsley,
a pinch of powdered saffron, a bit of bay, a little savory and
fennel, and two tablespoonfuls of oil.

Moisten the fish with just enough cold water to cover it,
and season with one-third oz. of salt and a pinch of pepper
per quart of water.

Set to boil, and cook over a brisk fire. At the end of eight
minutes add the pieces of whiting and red mullet, and leave to
cook for a further seven minutes.

Pour the liquor of the bouillabaisse over some slices of
household bread lying on the bottom of a deep dish ; set the
fish on another dish with the sections of spiny lobster all round,
and serve.

1040— QUENELLES DE BROCKET A LA LYONNAISE

Pound separately one lb. of the meat of pike, cleared of
all skin and bones, and one lb. of the fat of kidney of beef,
very dry, cleaned, and cut into small pieces. If desired, half
of the weight of the fat of kidney of beef may be replaced by
one-half lb. of beef marrow.

Put the pounded meat of the pike and the kidney fat on
separate plates. Now pound one lb. of frangipane Panada
(No. 192) and add thereto, little by little, the white of four
little eggs. Put the pike meat and the fat back into the mortar,
and finely pound the whole until a fine, smooth paste is
obtained. Rub the latter through a sieve; put the resulting
pur6e into a basin, and work it well with a wooden spoon in
order to smooth it.

With this forcemeat mould some quenelles with a spoon,
and poach them in salted water.

If these quenelles are to be served with an ordinary fish
sauce, put them into it as soon as they are poached and drained,
and simmer them in it for ten minutes that they may swell.

If the sauce intended for them is to be thickened with egg-
yolks, and buttered at the last moment, put them into a sauce-

FISH 351

pan with a few tablespoonfuls of fumet, and simmer them as
directed in the case of an ordinary fish sauce, taking care to
keep the saucepan well covered that the concentrated steam
may assist the swelling of the quenelles. In this case they are
added to the sauce at the last moment.

N.B. — Slices of truffle may always be added to the sauce.
The quenelles are dished either in a silver timbale, in a shallow
timbale-crust, or in a fine vol-au-vent crust, in accordance with
the arrangement of the menu.

1041— FISH CAKES

Fish cakes or balls, which are greatly appreciated in both
England and America, are made from any boiled fish. Salted
cod, however, is best suited to their preparation, and is therefore
used much more often than other kinds of fish.

Flake one lb. of cooked cod, and clear it of all skin and
bones; pound it with one-half lb. of freshly-cooked, floury
potatoes, two tablespoonfuls of reduced Bdchamel sauce, and
two whole eggs. Season with salt and pepper. When the
paste has been well beaten and is smooth, take it out of the
mortarand divide it into portions weighing about two oz. Roll
these portions into balls upon a flour-dusted mixing-board,
flatten them out to the shape of thick quoits, and treat them
a I'anglaise.

Fry them at the last moment in very hot fat, and dish them
on a napkin with fried parsley all round.

1042— WATERZOI

In order to prepare Waterzoi, it is best, when possible, to
have live fish at one's disposal, not only because these are
better able to resist the cooking process, but also owing to the
fact that they are richer in gelatine in the live state.

The fish more generally used are the eel, the perch, the
tench, the carp, the pike, &c.

After having scaled and emptied them, trim them and cut
off their heads and tails. Cut the fish into sections; moisten
these with just enough cold water to cover them; add a piece
of butter, sufficient parsley roots or stalks to produce a decided
taste, a few peppercorns, and some salt.

Set to cook on a brisk fire, and take care that the cooking-
liquor be reduced and sufficiently thickened when the fish are
cooked.

Serve in a timbale or on a dish, and send some slices of
bread and butter to the table at the same time.

CHAPTER XV
RELEVES AND ENTREES

The difference between Relev^s and Entries needs only to
be examined very superficially in order for it to be seen how
entirely the classification hangs on the question of bulk.
Indeed, with very few exceptions, the same alimentary pro-
ducts— butcher's meat, fish, poultry, and game — may be used
with perfect propriety in the preparation of either Releves or
Entries. And if the mode of preparation and the nature of
the garnishing ingredients are sometimes dissimilar, it is owing
to that difference in bulk referred to above, on account of which
the Releves, being more voluminous, are usually braised,
poeled, poached, or roasted; while the Entries, consisting of
smaller pieces, are chiefly sauted, poached, or grilled.

In the menus of old-fashioned dinners k la Fran9aise, the
line of demarcation between Releves and Entries was far more
clearly defined, the latter being generally twice, if not thrice,
as numerous as the former. The first service of a dinner for
twenty people, for instance, comprised eight or twelve Entries
and four soups, all of which were set on the dining-table before
the admission of- the diners. As soon as the soups were served,
the Releves, to the number of four, two of which consisted of
fish, took the place of the soups on the table; they relieved
the soups; hence their name, which now, of course, is quite
meaningless.

The Russian method of serving greatly simplified the prac-
tice just described. Nowadays a dinner rarely consists of more
than two soups, two Relevds (one of which is fish), and two
or three Entries for the first service. Very often the fish
Relev6, instead of being a large piece of fish, only consists
of fillets of sole, of chicken-turbots, &c., or timbales, which are
real entries; while the Releves (consisting of large pieces of
butcher's meat or game), instead of being served as common
sense would dictate, i.e., after the fish Relev^, when the diner's
appetite is still keen, are placed, according to English custom,
after the Entries.

RELEVES AND ENTREES 253

Thus, as the two above examples show, the parts played
by the Releves and Entries respectively are very far from
being clearly defined ; and I therefore resolved to treat of them
both in the same chapter, and to append a few grills (usually
accompanied by various sauces and garnishes), which are really
only luncheon-roasts. The indications given concerning the
class to which the recipes belong will suffice to avoid confusion,

RELEVES AND ENTREES OF BUTCHER'S MEAT

BEEF

1043-PILLET OF BEEF (Relev6)

Fillet of beef for a Relev^ may consist either of the whole
piece, trimmed, studded, or larded, or a more or less large
piece cut from the whole, and treated after one of the methods
suited to the whole fillet. The fillet may be braised, poeled,
or roasted; but the last two modes of preparation suft it best,
as it is generally preferred underdone and somewhat red
towards the centre.

The garnishes for a Relev6 of fillet of beef are as numerous
as they are varied; and, as they are applicable not only to
fillet of beef but to all Releves of butcher's meat, I give them
here in preference, since fillet of beef may be considered the
choicest of Releves.

1044— FILETS DE B(EUF ANDALOUSE

Having removed all the connective tissue from the fillet, lard
it with thin strips of bacon, and poele or roast it. Glaze it at
the last moment; set it on a long dish, and surround it with : —
(i) Some grilled half-capsicums, filled with rice a la grecque
(No. 2253) ; (2) roundels of egg-plant, two inches in diameter
and one inch thick, hollowed out to form cases, fried in oil,
and garnished with concassed tomatoes tossed in oil. Arrange
the half-capsicums and the egg-plant alternately round the
fillet, and place a grilled chifolata sausage between each.

Sauce to be sent separately. — The gravy taken from the
poeling-stock, strained, cleared of all grease, and thickened.

I045— FILET DE B(EUF BOUQUETIERE

Having larded the fillet and poeled or roasted it, set it on
a long dish and surround it with : — (i) Small heaps of carrots
and turnips, turned by means of a small grooved spoon, and
cooked in consommd; (2) small heaps of little potatoes turned
to the shape of olives and cooked in butter; (3) small heaps of

A A

354 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

peas and of French beans, cut into lozenges and cohered with
butter; (4) five bunches of cauliflower.

Arrange these different products in such wise as to vary
their colours and throw them into relief.

Serve the gravy of the fillet separately, after having cleared
it of all grease and strained it.

1046— FILET DE BCEUF CAMARQO

Trim the fillet; suppress the long muscle lying on its thicker
side (Fr. chaine), and open the meat lengthwise from the same
side. Withdraw the meat from the inside of the fillet so as to
leave a wall of meat only one-half inch thick all round. Finely
chop the withdrawn meat and combine with it, per lb., little
by little, from four to five tablespoonfuls of cream and four oz.
of fresh foie gras. Season with salt and pepper, rectify the
consistence of the paste, and add thereto, per lb., two oz. of
chopped truffles.

Fill the hollow fillet with this forcemeat, thereby returning
it to its original shape, and stud its top surface with pointed
pieces of truffle one inch long by one-quarter inch wide, stuck
into the meat aslant. In order to facilitate this operation, bore
the meat, before the insertion of the pieces of truffles, by means
of a small knife.

Now cover the fillet with slices of bacon and string it
laterally, leaving a space of one inch between each strand.

Poele the meat carefully, and take care that the forcemeat
inside be well, but not over-done. This may be ascertained by
thrusting a braiding needle into the thickest part of the fillet,
as soon as the meat seems resisting and elastic to the touch.
If the needle withdraws clean, the fillet is ready.

Now glaze it, after having cut away the string and removed
the slices of bacon ; dish it, and surround it with the following
garnish : — Small tartlet-crusts garnished by means of noodles
with cream ; a slice of foie gras stamped out with a round cutter
and tossed in butter, upon the noodles ; and a fine slice of truffle
on the foie gras.

Sauce to be sent to the table separately. — The reduced
^oeZm^-liquor of the fillet, cleared of all grease, and added
to a P^rigueux sauce.

1047— FILET DE B(EUF CHATELAINE

Lard the fillet, poele it, and glaze it just before dishing up.
Set it on a long dish, and surround it with the following
garnish : — (i) Medium-sized artichoke-bottoms garnished with
thick Soubise ; (2) fine, peeled chestnuts cooked in the

RELEVES AND ENTREES 355

poeling-liquor ; (3) small heaps of lightly browned potatoes,
cooked in butter at the last moment.

Sauce to be sent separately. — The reduced poeling-liquor
of the fillet, cleared of all grease and added to a Madeira sauce.

1048— FILET DE B(EUF CLAMART

Lard the fillet and roast it.

Set it on a long dish and surround it with : — (i) Little
tartlet-crusts garnished with peas, prepared h la Frangaise (No.
2193), combined with the ciseled lettuce used in their cooking-
process, and cohered with butter; (2) small quoits of " Pommes
Macaire " (No. 2228). Arrange the tartlet-crusts and the quoits
alternately.

Sauce to be sent separately .—The gravy slightly thickened.

1049— FILET DE BCEUF DAUPHINE

Lard the fillet and poele it.

Glaze it at the last moment; set it on a long dish, and
surround it with a garnish of potato croquettes a la Dauphine,
moulded to the shape of corks, and fried just before dishing up.

Sauce to be sent separately. — Pale half-glaze with Madeira.

1050— FILET DE BCEUF DUBARRY

Lard the fillet with bacon, and roast it.

Set it on a long dish, and surround it with small heaps of
cauliflower moulded to the shape of balls, coated with Mornay
sauce, besprinkled with grated cheese, and put in the oven
for the gratin to form just in time for the dishing up.

Send a thickened gravy to the table separately.

1051— FILET DE BOEUF DUCHESSE

Either roast or poele the larded fillet. If it be poeled,
glaze it at the last moment.

Set it on a long dish and surround it with potatoes k la
Duchesse (the shape of which may be varied according to
fancy), lightly browned and coloured in the oven for a few
minutes before the dishing.

Sauce to be sent separately. — Half-glaze with Madeira.

1052— FILET DE BOEUF FINANCIERE

Poele the larded fillet.

Glaze it at the last moment and set it on a long dish.

Surround it with a garnish consisting of (i) quenelles of
ordinary forcemeat; (2) grooved and cooked button-mushroom
heads; (3) cocks' combs and kidneys; (4) turned and blanched
olives. Each garnish should be placed on the dish in distinct
heaps.

A A 2

356 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

Cover the garnish with a little financiere sauce, and send
the same sauce separately.

> 053— FILET DE BCEUF GASTRONOME

Insert truffles, cut to the shape of ordinary larding-bacon,
into the fillet, and set the latter to marinade for four or five
hours in one-quarter pint of Madeira.

This done, thoroughly wipe it; cover it with slices of bacon,
and braise it in Madeira. When about to serve it, remove the
slices of bacon ; glaze it slightly, and set it on a long dish.

Surround it with a garnish consisting of (i) large and thick
slices of truffle, cooked in a fine mirepoix with champagne ;
(2) fine chestnuts cooked in consomm6 and glazed ; (3) fine
cocks' kidneys, rolled in pale, thin meat-glaze; (4) noodles
tossed in butter. These different garnishes should be arranged
in alternate heaps, and connected by means of medium-sized
truffles cooked in Madeira.

Sauce to be sent separately. — Half-glaze combined with the
cooking-liquor of the truffles, strained through linen and
reduced to two-thirds.

1054— FILET DE BCEUF QODARD

Lard the fillet with alternate strips of bacon and salted
tongue, and poele it. Glaze it a few minutes before serving;
set it on a long dish, and surround it with a garnish con-
sisting of (i) quenelles of ordinary forcemeat with chopped
mushrooms and truffles added thereto, moulded by means of
a coffee-spoon, and poached just before dishing up ; (2) turned
and cooked button-mushroom heads; (3) glazed lamb sweet-
breads; (4) cocks' combs and kidneys; (5) truffles fashioned
like olives.

Slightly coat these garnishes, which should be arranged in
heaps, with sauce ; finish the dish with four oval quenelles
decked with tongue and truffle, and place one of these at either
end and side of the dish.

Sauce to be sent separately. — A Godard sauce combined
with the cooking-liquor of the fillet, cleared of all grease and
reduced.

,055— FILET DE BCEUF HONQROISE

Lard the fillet and roast it.

Set it on a long dish and surround it with a garnish con-
sisting of medium-sized onions, cooked in white consomm^,
and glazed in butter at the last minute.

Sauce to be sent separately . — Thin Soubise with paprika.

RELEVES AND ENTREES 357

1056— FILET DE BCEUF JAPONAISE

Lard the fillet and poele it.

Glaze it just before dishing; set it on a long dish, and sur-
round it with a garnish consisting of (i) small croustades
cooked in grooved brioche-moulds and garnished with Japanese
artichokes cohered by means of velout6; (2) potato croquettes
moulded to the shape of eggs and fried just before dishing up.
Arrange the croustades and the croquettes alternately.

Send the gravy of the fillet, strained and cleared of all
grease, to the table separately.

I057— FILET DE BCEUF JARDINIERE

Lard the fillet and roast it.

Set it on a long dish and surround it with the following
garnishes, which should be arranged in distinct heaps in such
wise as to alternate their colours : — Carrots and turnips, raised
by means of a grooved spoon-cutter and cooked separately in
consomm6; peas, French beans in lozenge-form and small
flageolets, each of which vegetables should be cooked in a
manner in keeping with its nature, and separately cohered with
butter; portions of freshly-cooked cauliflower, kept very white
and of tight growth.

Send some Hollandaise sauce for the cauliflower, and some
clear gravy, to the table, separately.

1058— FILET DE BCEUF LORETTE

Lard the fillet and poele it.

Glaze it at the last moment ; set it on a long dish, and sur-
round it with a garnish as follows: — (i) A small pyramid of
Lorette potatoes (No. 2226) at either end of the fillet; (2) fine
heaps of asparagus-heads, cohered with butter, on either side.

Send some tomated half-glaze separately.

1059— FILET DE BCEUF MACEDOINE

Prepare the fillet as directed under "Filet de Boeuf
Jardinilre." Set it on a long dish and surround it with a
Macedoine garnish. The latter comprises the same ingredients
as the "Jardiniere" ; but, instead of their being heaped
separately, they are mixed together and cohered by means of
butter.

1060— FILET DE BCEUF AU MADBRE
ET AUX CHAMPIGNONS

Lard and poele the fillet.

Glaze it; dish it as before, and surround it with fine mush-
room-heads, turned and grooved.

358 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

Send to the table, separately, a Madeira sauce finished with
the poeling-liquoT, cleared of all grease and reduced.

io6i— FILET DE BCEUF MODERNE

Lard the fillet alternately with bacon and tongue, and
poele it.

Glaze it just before dishing; set it on a long dish, and sur-
round it with garnish as follows : — On either side of the fillet
lay a row of small "chartreuses," made in small, hexagonal
moulds.

To make these "chartreuses," butter the moulds and deck
the bottom of each with a slice of truffle, big enough to almost
entirely cover it. Now line the sides of the moulds with various
vegetables, such as carrots, turnips, peas, and French beans;
each of which vegetables should be cooked as its nature
requires.

Arrange them in such wise as to vary their colours, and
spread over the whole a thin layer of rather flimsy forcemeat.

Fill up the moulds with braised cabbage, which should be
well pressed with the view of ridding it of all its moisture, and
put the chartreuses in a bain-marie ten minutes before dishing
the fillet.

At either end of the fillet set some braised half-lettuces,
arranging them so that they frame the ends of the fillet in
half-circles.

Between the lettuce and the chartreuses set four round
quenelles, decorated with salted tongue and poached in time
to be ready for the dishing of the meat.

Send to the table, separately, the poeling-liquor of the fillet,
cleared of all grease, strained, and slightly thickened with
arrowroot.

1062— FILET DE BCEUF MONTMORENCY

Lard the fillet and poele it.

Glaze it just before dishing up, and set it on a long dish.

Send to the table, separately, a Madeira sauce finished with
the ^oe7mg--liquor of the fillet, to which add (per pint of the
sauce) three tablespoonfuls of red-currant jelly ; two tablespoon-
fuls of finely-grated horse-radish, or the latter finely grated first,
and then chopped; thirty moderately-sweetened cherries, set to
soak in tepid water seven or eight minutes beforehand, and
drained just before being added to the sauce.

1063— FILET DE BOEUF NIVERNAISE

Lard the fillet and poele it.

Glaze it at the last moment; set it on a long dish, and sur-

RELEVES AND ENTRIES 359

round it with garnish as follows: — (i) Heaps of small carrots,
shaped like elongated olives, cooked in white consomm^ and a
little butter and sugar, and rolled in their cooking-liquor (re-
duced to the consistence of syrup), with the view of glazing
them.

Send the poeling-liquov (cleared of all grease and strained)
to the table separately.

1064— FILET DE B(EUF ORIENTALE

Roast the fillet " plain," i.e., without previously larding it.

Set it on a long dish, and surround it with the following
garnish, taking care to alternate the ingredients, viz., (i) tim-
bales of rice k la grecque (No. 2253) moulded in buttered dariole-
moulds, each timbale being placed on a medium-sized half-
tomato, seasoned and tossed in butter; (2) croquettes of sweet
potatoes, moulded to the shape of corks, and fried just before
dishing up.

Send to the table, separately, a highly seasoned tomato
sauce.

1065— FILET -DE BCEUF P^RIQOURDINE

Lard the fillet and poele it.

Glaze it just before dishing up; set it on a long dish, and
surround it with medium-sized truffles, freshly cooked in
Madeira and fine mire'poix, and glazed. Send a P^rigueux
sauce separately.

1066— FILET DE BGEUF PETIT DUG

Lard the fillet and poele it.

Glaze it in good time; set it on a long dish, and surround
it with the following garnish : — (i) crisp, small patties of
puff paste garnished with asparagus-heads cohered by means
of cream sauce; (2) medium-sized artichoke-bottoms, prepared
in the usual way, and garnished with slices of truffle.

Send, separately, a light, meat glaze, combined with four
oz. of butter per one-half pint.

1067— FILET DE BCEUF PORTUQAISE

Lard the fillet and roast it.

Set it on a long dish, and garnish it as follows : —

1. A row of medium-sized, stuffed tomatoes on either side.

2. At either end a nice heap of potatoes, shaped like long
olives, and cooked in butter just before dishing up.

Send a light, Portugaise sauce separately.

1068— FILET DE BCEUF PROVEN9ALE

Lard the fillet and poele it.

Glaze it at the last minute; set it on a long dish, and sur-

36o GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

round it with the following, alternated: — Tomatoes and mush-
rooms stuffed a la Provengale (Nos. 2266 and 2075).
Send a tomated half-glaze sauce, separately.

1069— FILET DE BCEUF R^QENCE

Marinade the fillet in Rhine wine two or three hours in
advance; cover it with a Matignon (No. 227); envelop the fillet
and the Matignon in slices of bacon, and set the whole to braise
with its marinade.

A few minutes before dishing up, remove the slices of bacon
and the Matignon, and glaze the fillet.

Set it on a long dish, and surround it with the following
garnish, which, except for the decorated quenelles, which are
left plain, should be arranged in distinct heaps, and slightly
coated with sauce : — (i) quenelles of ordinary forcemeat, com-
bined with chopped tongue, moulded by means of a coffee-
spoon, and poached at the last minute; (2) collops of foie gras
tossed in butter; (3) fine cocks' combs; (4) very white, cooked
mushroom-heads, and truffles shaped like large olives.

Send, separately, the braising-liquor of the fillet, cleared of
all grease, strained with pressure, reduced, and added to a half-
glaze sauce.

1070— FILET DE B(EUF RENAISSANCE

Lard the fillet and poele it.

Glaze it at the last minute ; set it on a long dish, and sur-
round it with a garnish of early-season vegetables, comprising
carrots and turnips, raised by means of a large, round, grooved
spoon-cutter, cooked in consomm6 and glazed; very green peas;
small French beans ; small faggots of asparagus-heads ; portions
of cauliflowers, and small potatoes cooked in butter.

Renaissance garnish is, however, subject to no fixed rules,
and it may consist of all the available early-season vegetables,
small artichoke-bottoms included.

Send a clear gravy separately.

1071— FILET DE BCEUF RICHELIEU

Lard the fillet, and either poele or roast it.

If it be poeled, glaze it in good time; set it on a long dish,
and surround it with the following garnish, which should be
arranged in distinct heaps and in such wise as to contrast its
colouring :— (i) Small tomatoes and medium-sized mushrooms,
stuffed; (2) small or half-lettuces, braised and well trimmed;
(3) potatoes, the size of pigeons' eggs, cooked in butter and
prepared just in time for the dishing up.

RELEVES AND ENTREES 361

Send the cooking-liquor, cleared of all grease, and slightly
thickened, separately.

1072— FILET DE BCEUF SAINT=FLORENTIN

Lard the fillet and roast it.

Set it on a long dish, and surround it with the following
garnish : — (i) At either end, a heap of ce-pes, prepared k la
Bordelaise at the last minute ; (2) croquettes of potatoes k la
Saint-Florentin, on either side. These croquettes are prepared
from the same potato-paste as " Pommes Duchesse," but in this
case the paste receives a copious addition of chopped tongue.
Mould them to the shape of lozenges, and treat them a
I'anglaise, using for the purpose very fine vermicelli instead of
bread-crumbs.

Fry the croquettes just before dishing up.

Send, separately, a Bordelaise sauce with white wine, kept
somewhat light.

1073— FILET DE BCEUF SAINT-GERMAIN

Lard the fillet and roast it.

Set it on a long dish, and surround it with the following
garnish : — (i) At either end of the fillet a nice heap of glazed
carrots, cut to the shape of olives; (2) a heap of very small
potatoes, cooked in butter, on either side of the carrots; (3) a
row of small timbales of very green peas pur^e (No. 2196) on
either side of the fillet.

1074— FILET DE BCEUF TALLEYRAND

Cut up the necessary number of raw truffles for the garnish-
ing of the fillet. The pieces of truffle should be one inch long
and one-quarter inch wide, and so pointed as to enable them
to be easily stuck into the meat.

To stick them in, make small incisions in the fillet, and
in these set the bits of truffle. Marinade the fillet for three
hours in Madeira ; wrap it in slices of bacon ; string it, and
set it to braise with its marinade.

This done, remove the slices of bacon ; glaze it, and set it
on a long dish. Send the following garnish separately : —
Poached macaroni, cut into pieces one and one-half inches
long, and combined per lb. with three oz. of grated Gruy^re
and Parmesan, one and one-half oz. of butter, three oz. of a
julienne of truffles, and three oz. of cooked foie gras, cut into
large dice.

As an adjunct, send a P^rigueux sauce with a fine julienne
of truffles instead of the latter chopped.

362 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

1075— FILET DE iBCEUF FROID (Releve)

Fillet of beef, when properly dished, makes an excellent cold
Relev^.

For this purpose lard it, roast it (keeping it somewhat under-
done towards the centre), and, when it is quite cold, trim, and
coat it with half-melted jelly.

Then set it either directly upon a dish or upon a cushion
of bread or carved rice, which makes the dish more sightly
when the garnish is added.

Before setting the fillet on the dish or on the cushion of rice,
it is well to cut a slice one-fifth inch thick from the whole of its
base; leave this slice under the fillet when dishing; by this
means, when the carving is proceeded with, each slice will be
found to be neatly trimmed.

Cold fillet of beef allows of every possible cold vegetable
garnish.

The vegetables should be cooked with the greatest care and
be left to cool naturally.

When they are quite cold, either cohere them by means of
jelly, or set them round the fillet in neat heaps, taking care to
alternate their shades, and coat them with almost melted aspic.

Finally, between each heap of vegetables lay a little chopped
and very clear aspic, and, round the whole, arrange a border
consisting of bits of aspic (round, oval, square, lozenge-shaped,
&c.) very regularly cut.

I see no reason for devoting any further space to this subject.
What has been said should, I think, suffice to show how varied
and numerous are the possible ways of dishing cold fillet of beef,
the minute details of which may, with advantage, be left to the
ingenuity of the operator.

FILLET OF BEEF FOR ENTREES
1076— CHATEAUBRIAND, FILLET STEAK, TOURNEDOS

By fillet steaks are understood those pieces of meat cut
laterally from the thickest part of the fillet of beef.

They ought to be about one and one-half inches thick, and
weigh from six to seven oz. Tournedos are half-fillets in re-
spect of their weight, and might well be called the "kernels "
of the fillet of beef. The usual thickness of a tournedos is
about one and one-quarter inches, and they should be cut to a
nice, round shape. With the object of preserving their shape,
they may be tied round with string.

Chateaubriand is also procured from the centre of fillet of

RELEVES AND ENTREES 363

beef, and its weight is often twice, thrice, and sometimes more
than thrice as much as that of the ordinary fillet steaks.

As a rule, especially when grilled, it constitutes a special
roast for luncheons; when it is cooked in the saucepan, i.e.,
sauted, it is more often served as a Relev6.

The same garnishes suit fillet, Chateaubriands, and
tournedos, the only necessary modifications being in respect
of size and arrangement, which should be subject to the size of
the piece of meat.

The garnishes detailed hereafter are for the tournedos, which
supply the greatest number of the dishes prepared from the
three different cuts of fillet. If a fillet steak be prepared after
one of the following recipes, the garnish should be made a little
stronger, and its constituents modified in the dishing, neither
of which changes need in any way alter the formula.

The same holds with regard to a Chateaubriand. Thus, for
example, if it be required to prepare a fillet steak or a Chateau-
briand, after the recipe "Tournedos k I'Alg^rienne," the
number of croquettes and tomatoes should be half as much
again, and they should be arranged alternately round the meat,
instead of the latter being placed on the croquettes, as in the
case of the tournedos.

If the fillets are to be treated "k I'Alsacienne," after the
recipe for tournedos, the sauerkraut should be dished in a tim-
bale instead of in tartlet-crusts, &c.

All that is needed, therefore, is a change in the method of
arrangement, and this can be decided upon at a glance, without
necessarily interfering with the principle of the recipe.

It should be borne in mind that nearly all the garnishes
given under fillet of beef, served whole, may be applied to
Chateaubriands, fillet steak, and tournedos, provided they
be made in proportion to the size of the different pieces. I
see no need, therefore, to repeat these vegetable recipes in so
far as they relate to the various cuts of fillet of beef.

It is only necessary to add that for the fillet of beef, as well
as for tournedos, noisettes, &c., a large number of plain
vegetable garnishes may be used, the details of which I prefer
to omit for fear of unduly lengthening this work.

Whole fillets, fillet steak, and tournedos may thus be served
with garnishes of braised celery, tuberous fennel, cardoons with
gravy, chow-chow and endives, braised lettuce, various purees,
&c., and, generally, with all the vegetable preparations given
in Chapter XVII.

364 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

Important Remarks relative to the Sauces suited to
Entries of Butcher's Meat, Garnished with Vegetables

The derivative sauces of the Espagnole are not, as a rule,
suited to entrees garnished with vegetables. Thickened gravy
is better.

The finest adjunct, however, is meat-glaze, which should
receive an addition of four oz. of butter per pint, and should
be slightly acidulated by means of a few drops of lemon juice.
This glaze ought to be so light as not to impaste the vegetables.

Such vegetables as asparagus-heads, peas, French beans,
macedoines, &c., have a disintegrating action upon the sauces,
and this is owing either to their natural moisture or to their
leason. As a result of this action the preparation has an un-
sightly appearance when served upon the diner's plate.

With Chateaubriand sauce (No. 71) or buttered meat-glaze
this objection does not obtain, seeing that this sauce does not
decompose, but combines admirably with the garnish, and lends
the latter a certain noticeable mellowness.

I therefore emphasise this point, viz., that the derivative
sauces of the Espagnole and tomato sauces should be exclusively
used with such preparations garnished with truffles, cock's
combs and kidneys, quenelles and mushrooms, as "la
Financi^re," "la Godard," &c.

TOURNEDOS

I077— TOURNEDOS ALQERIENNE

Season the tournedos, and fry them in clarified butter.

Arrange them in the form of a crown on a round dish, and
set a croquette of sweet potato, moulded to a round shape, upon
each.

Around the whole lay some small, emptied, and seasoned
half-tomatoes, stewed in oil.

1078— TOURNEDOS ALSACIENNE

Season and grill the tournedos.

There should have been prepared in advance as many small
tartlet-crusts as there are tournedos.

Garnish these tartlets with well-drained, braised sauerkraut,
and set on each a roundel of the lean of ham, stamped out with
an even cutter. Arrange them in the form of a crown on a
dish, and set a tournedos upon each tartlet.

RELEVES AND ENTREES 365

,079— TOURNEDOS ARL^SIENNE

Fry the tournedos in butter and oil.

When about to serve, set the tournedos on a dish, and sur-
round them with fried roundels of egg-plant and tossed tomatoes,
alternating the two garnishes, and placing roundels of fried
onions on the tournedos.

1080— TOURNEDOS BALTIMORE

Season the tournedos, and fry them in clarified butter.

Set them in the form of a crown on small tartlets garnished
by means of maize with cream.

Upon each tournedos set a roundel of tomato, seasoned and
tossed in butter, and a smaller slice of green capsicum, also
tossed in butter, on each roundel of tomato.

Accompanying sauce: a Chateaubriand (No. 71).

108 1— TOURNEDOS BEARNAISE

Season the tournedos, and grill them.

Set them on round crusts, half an inch thick, fried in
clarified butter; slightly coat the surface of the tournedos with
meat-glaze, and surround them with a thread of B^arnaise
sauce (No. 62).

In the centre arrange a heap of small potatoes cooked in
butter and kept very soft, and sprinkle thereon a pinch of
chopped parsley.

N.B. — The tournedos may be simply coated with glaze and
the Bearnaise sauce served separately.

1082— TOURNEDOS BELLE-HEL6nE

Prepare as many small croquettes of asparagus-tops, shaped
like quoits, as there are tournedos, and fry them while the latter
are being cooked. Season the tournedos, and fry them in
clarified butter.

Arrange them, in the form of a crown, on a dish ; place a
croquette on each tournedos, and a large, glazed slice of truffle
on each croquette.

1083— TOURNEDOS BERCY

Grill the tournedos, and coat them lightly with pale meat-
glaze.

Dish them in the form of a crown, and serve a half-melted
" Beurre k la Bercy " (No. 139) separately.

1084— TOURNEDOS BORDELAISE

Grill the tournedos, and dish them in the form of a crown.
Set a large slice of poached marrow on each, and serve a
Bordelaise sauce (No. 32) separately.

366 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

1085— TOURNEDOS BRABAN^ONNE

Prepare as many tartlet-crusts as there are tournedos
Garnish them with very small parboiled Brussels sprouts,

stewed in butter; cover these with Mornay sauce, and set to

glaze a few moments before dishing.

Season the tournedos, and fry them in butter; set them on

the prepared tartlets of sprouts, and surround with a border

of small " pommes de terre fondantes " (No. 2214).

1086— TOURNEDOS CASTILLANE

Prepare (i) as many tartlet-crusts as there are tournedos;
(2) peeled, pressed, and seasoned tomatoes, cooked in butter;
these should be in the proportion of one tablespoonful per tart-
let; (3) rings of onion, fried in oil as for " Tournedos k I'Arl^-
sienne " ; (4) a garnish of one tablespoonful of small French
beans, cohered with butter, per tartlet.

Season the tournedos; fry them in butter, and dish them in
the form of a crown on fried crusts.

Place a tartlet, garnished with a fondue of tomatoes, on each
tournedos; all round arrange a border of the fried roundels of
onion, and serve the French beans, either in the middle of the
dish or separately in a timbale.

1087— TOURNEDOS CENDRILLON

Prepare (i) as many fine artichoke-bottoms as there are
tournedos ; (2) a Soubise pur^e, combined with chopped truffles,
and well buttered.

A few moments before the tournedos are ready, garnish the
artichoke-bottoms with the Soubise, and set them to glaze in a
fierce oven.

Season the tournedos; fry them in clarified butter, and set
them on the artichoke-bottoms, which should be arranged in a
circle round the dish.

1088— TOURNEDOS AUX CHAMPIGNONS

Season the tournedos, and fry them in butter.

Dish them in the form of a crown ; drain the butter from
the sautepan ; swill the latter with some mushroom cooking-
liquor, and add thereto a proportional quantity of mushroom
sauce. Set to boil for a few minutes, and pour the sauce, with
the mushrooms, in the midst of the circle of tournedos.

1089— TOURNEDOS CHASSEUR

Season the tournedos; fry them in butter, and dish them in
the form of a crown.

RELEVES AND ENTREES 367

Drain the butter away ; swill the saut^pan with white wine,
and add to this a quantit}'^ of Chasseur sauce, which should be
in proportion to the number of tournedos.

Set to boil for a moment or two, and pour the sauce over
the tournedos.

1090— TOURNEDOS CHORON

Season the tournedos, and fry them in butter.

Set them on crusts fried in butter ; round the top of each lay
a thread of Choron sauce (No. 64), and in the middle of each
set a medium-sized artichoke-bottom garnished with peas or
asparagus-heads cohered with butter.

All round, arrange a border of potatoes, lightly browned in
butter, or heap them in the middle of the crown of tournedos.

N.B. — The sauce may be served separately.

109 1— TOURNEDOS COLIQNY

1. With a preparation of sweet potatoes, made after the
manner of " Duchesse potatoes" (No. 221), make as many
small galettes as there are tournedos, and of the same size as
the latter.

Place them on a tray; gild them, and set them to brown in
the oven a few minutes before the tournedos are ready.

2. Cut some chow-chows in thick, paysanne fashion; par-
boil them ; stew them in butter, and add thereto an equal
quantity of Proven^ale sauce.

Season the tournedos, and fry them in butter ; dish them in
the form of a crown, on the galettes of potato, and cover them
with the paysanne of chow-chow.

1092— TOURNEDOS A L'ESTRAGON

Season the tournedos, and fry them in butter.

Dish them in the form of a crown, and on each set either a
spray of parboiled tarragon leaves or a lattice composed of the
latter. Send separately a thickened gravy with tarragon (No.
41).

1093— TOURNEDOS FAVORITE

Season the tournedos ; fry them in clarified butter, and dish
them, in the form of a crown, on crusts stamped out with an
indented cutter and fried in butter.

On each tournedos place a round collop of foie gras, a little
smaller than the piece of meat; the collop should be seasoned,
dredged, and tossed in butter. On each collop of foie gras put
a fine, glazed slice of indented truffle. Garnish the centre of
the dish with a fine heap of asparagus-tops cohered with butter,
or merely set these in small heaps round the tournedos.

368 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

Serve separately a timbale of potatoes (of the size of hazel-
nuts) cooked in butter, rolled in pale meat-glaze, and slightly
sprinkled with chopped parsley.

1094— TOURNEDOS A LA FLORENTINE

Prepare (i) as many subrics of shredded spinach as there
are tournedos; make them of the same size as the latter, and
cook them at the same time as the tournedos; (2) small, round
croquettes of semolina the size of walnuts; these should be
fried a few minutes before the tournedos are ready.

Grill the tournedos, and dish them, in the form of a crown,
on the spinach subrics. The croquettes of semolina may be
arranged either in the middle or all round.

1095— TOURNEDOS FORESTIERE

Season the tournedos, and saute them. Set them on crusts
fried in butter. Surround them with alternate heaps of noodles
and potatoes cut into large dice and tossed in butter.

The potatoes may also be placed in the midst of the tournedos
with the noodles all round, or vice vers^.

1096— TOURNEDOS GABRIELLE

Make a preparation from the white meat of a chicken and
truffles — both cut into dice and cohered with the necessary quan-
tity of somewhat light " Duchesse-potatoes " paste.

With this preparation make as many small quoit-shaped
croquettes as there are tournedos, and fry them while the latter
are being cooked.

Season the tournedos, and fry them with oil and butter
in equal quantities. Dish them, in the form of a crown,
on the prepared croquettes, and on each tournedos set a fine
roundel of poached marrow and one slice of truffle.

Around the tournedos arrange some very small, braised, and
well-trimmed lettuces.

1097— TOURNEDOS HENRI IV

Grill the tournedos, and set them on crusts fried in butter.

Round the edge of each tournedos lay a thread of Bearnaise
sauce, and on top of each an artichoke-bottom garnished with
very small potatoes (of the size of hazel-nuts) cooked in butter.

N.B. — Instead of putting the sauce on the edge of the tour-
nedos, it may be served separately.

1098— TOURNEDOS JUDIC

Season the tournedos; fry them in butter, and dish them in
the form of a crown on crusts fried in butter. On each tour-

RELEVES AND ENTREES 369

nedos set a crown of truffle slices, with a cock's kidney in the

centre, and surround with braised, trimmed, and quartered

lettuces*

1099— TOURNEDOS LACKM^

Prepare (i) as many small tartlet-crusts as there are tour-
nedos; (2) the same number of grilled, medium-sized mush-
rooms; (3) a garnish of one tablespoonful of broad beans with
cream per tartlet.

Season the tournedos, and fry them in clarified butter.

Dish them in the form of a crown, each on a tartlet garnished
with broad beans, and set a grilled mushroom on each tour-
nedos.

1 100— TOURNEDOS LESDIQUI6RES

Select onions sufficiently large to admit of placing the tour-
nedos upon them, and let their number equal that of the tour-
nedos.

Trim their tops, and parboil them almost long enough to
cook them.

Then, by means of a small knife, cut out their insides so
that they may form little cases. Fill the latter, two-thirds
full, with spinach prepared with cream, cover the spinach with
Mornay sauce, and set them to glaze in a fierce oven a few
moments before the tournedos are ready.

Grill the tournedos; dish them in the form of a crown, each

on an onion.

I loi— TOURNEDOS LILI

Season the tournedos, and fry them in butter.

Dish them, in the form of a crown, each on a crust of
" Pommes de terre Anna" (No. 2203), stamped out with a
round, even cutter of the same size as the tournedos.

On each tournedos set an artichoke-bottom garnished with
a roundel of foie gras tossed in butter, and on the foie gras place
a slice of truffle. Send, separately, a reduced and well-buttered
P^rigueux sauce.

1 102— TOURNEDOS LUCULLUS

Season the tournedos ; fry them in clarified butter, and dish
them, in the form of a crown, on fried crusts. Surround them
with a garnish consisting of quenelles of chicken forcemeat,
cocks' combs, truffles, and blanched olives, and coat the whole
with half-glaze sauce prepared with truffle essence.

1 103— TOURNEDOS MADELEINE

For ten tournedos prepare (i) ten timbales of a puree of
haricot beans. For these timbales the purde of haricot beans

B B

370 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

must be cohered per lb. with one egg and three yolks, finished
with two oz. of butter, put into well-buttered dariole-moulds,
and set these to poach fifteen minutes in advance.

(2) Ten small artichoke-bottoms garnished with reduced
Soubise.

Season the tournedos; fry them in butter; dish them, and
surround them with the timbales and the artichoke-bottoms,
alternating the two garnishes.

1 104— TOURNEDOS MARECHALE

Season the tournedos ; fry them in butter, and dish them
upon fried crusts. On each of the tournedos set a large, glazed
slice of truffle, and surround them with little heaps of asparagus-
heads cohered with butter.

1 1 05— TOURNEDOS MARIE-LOUISE

Season the tournedos, and fry them in butter.

Dish them, in the form of a crown, upon crusts one-third
inch thick, fried in butter. On each tournedos set a small
aitichoke-bottom, stewed in butter, garnished in the shape of
a dome, by means of a piping-bag, with a pur^e of mushrooms
combined with a quart of very reduced Soubise.

I io6— TOURNEDOS MASCOTTE

Season the tournedos, and fry them in butter.

Have a garnish ready consisting of raw, quartered artichoke-
bottoms fried in butter ; small, olive-shaped potatoes, also cooked
in butter ; and olive-shaped truffles.

When about to serve, dish the tournedos in a cocotte with
the garnish above described.

Swill the saut^-pan with white wine ; add thereto a little
gravy ; reduce the whole, strain it into the cocotte, and put the
latter in the front of the oven for a minute or two.

1 107— TOURNEDOS MASSENA

Season the tournedos and fry them in butter; dish them on
fried crusts of the same size, and, in the middle of each tour-
nedos, set a large slice of poached marrow.

Surround with a row of small artichoke-bottoms, garnished
with very stiff B^arnaise sauce.

1 108— TOURNEDOS A LA MENAQgRE

Put into an earthenware cocotte the following vegetables,
which should be in proportion to the number of tournedos : —
Haricot butter or " Princesse " cut into small pieces, minced
new carrots, very small new onions, and very fresh peas.

RELEVES AND ENTREES 371

All these vegetables should be equally apportioned.

Add salt, butter, and a very little water, for the cooking of
the vegetables should be effected mainly by the concentration
of steam inside the cocotte, which, for the purpose, should
therefore be well closed.

Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them upon the vege-
tables in the cocotte at the last moment.

1 109— TOURNEDOS A LA MEXICAINE

Prepare (i) a fondue of peeled and pressed tomatoes, cooked
in butter, well reduced, and in the proportion of one table-
spoonful per mushroom ; (2) as many large grilled mushrooms
as there are tournedos, while the latter are being fried ; (3) some
grilled or fried capsicums in the proportion of half a one per
tournedos.

Season the tournedos, and fry them in oil and butter in equal
quantities. Dish them each on a mushroom garnished with
the fondue of tomatoes, and cover them with the grilled or
fried capsicums.

mo— TOURNEDOS MIKADO

Select some fine, rather firm tomatoes — " Mikados;" as they
are called — and cut them in two laterally. Squeeze them with
the object of expressing all their juice and seeds ; season them
inside, and grill them so that they may be ready at the same
time as the tournedos.

Season the latter and fry them in butter.

Dish them in the form of a crown, each on a grilled half-
tomato, and garnish the centre of the dish with Japanese
artichokes tossed in butter.

1 1 1 1— TOURNEDOS MIRABEAU

Grill the tournedos.

Lay eight fine strips of anchovy fillets upon each, crossing
the former after the manner of a lattice. Cover the edges with
a crown of blanched tarragon leaves, and set a large stoned olive
in the middle of each tournedos.

Send some half-melted anchovy butter separately, and allow
two-thirds oz. of it for each tournedos.

1 1 12— TOURNEDOS MIREILLE

For ten tournedos, prepare in advance, (i) five croustades
from the preparation used for " pommes Duchesse." To make
these croustades, fill some buttered dariole-moulds with the
preparation referred to, taking care to press it snugly into them.
Dip the moulds into tepid water, turn out, treat the mouldings

B B 2

372 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

a Vanglaisc, fry them, hollow out their centres, and keep them
hot.

(2) A fondue of tomatoes in the proportion of one heaped
tablespoon ful per croustade.

(3) Five timbales of pilaff rice, made after the same manner
as the croustades, and kept hot until required for dishing.

Season the tournedos, fry them in butter, and dish them as
soon as they are ready.

Surround them with timbales of rice, and the croustades
garnished with the fondue, the two garnishes to be alternated.

1 1 13— TOURNEDOS MIRETTE

Prepare as many small timbales of " pommes Mirette "
(No. 2234) as there are tournedos.

Turn them out on a dish, sprinkle with grated Parmesan
and a few drops of melted butter, and set them to glaze a few
minutes before the tournedos are ready. Grill the tournedos,
dish them in the form of a crown, and set a timbale of pommes
Mirette upon each.

Swill the saute-pan with white wine; add thereto a little
meat-glaze, finish with butter, and pour the resulting sauce
over the tournedos.

n 14— TOURNEDOS A LA MOELLE

Grill the tournedos and dish them in the form of a crown.

Lay on each of them a large slice of poached marrow, and
either surround them with Bordelaise sauce or send the latter
to the table separately.

1 1 15— TOURNEDOS MONTGOMERY

Season the tournedos and fry them in butter.

Dish them upon a pancake of spinach (No. 2138), cooked
in a tartlet-mould. Deck each tournedos with a rosette of
reduced Soubise, made by means of a piping-bag fitted with a
grooved pipe, and put a fine slice of truffle in the centre of
the rosette.

1 1 16— TOURNEDOS MONTPENSIER

Prepare (i) as many tartlet-crusts as there are tournedos;
(2) a garnish of asparagus-heads, cohered with butter, in the
proportion of one heaped tablespoonful per tartlet.

Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them upon fried
crusts.

On each of them set a tartlet garnished with asparagus-
heads, with a slice of truffle in the middle.

RELEVES AND ENTREES 373

1117— TOURNEDOS AUX MORILLES

Grill the tournedos or fry them in butter.

Dish them in the form of a crown ; in the centre arrange a
heap of morels tossed in butter, and besprinkle them moderately
with chopped parsley.

1 1 18— TOURNEDOS A LA NI9OISE

Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them in the form of a
crown.

In the centre of each tournedos set a small heap, consisting
of one half-tablespoonful of peeled, pressed, and concassed
tomatoes, tossed in butter, together with a little crushed garlic
and chopped tarragon.

Surround with small heaps of French beans cohered with
butter, and other heaps of small potatoes, cooked in butter,
alternating the two garnishes.

1 1 19— TOURNEDOS NINON

Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them upon crusts of
" pommes Anna," stamped out with a round fancy-cutter of
the same size as the tournedos. On each of the latter set a
small patty, garnished with asparagus-heads, cohered with
butter and combined with a fine and short julienne of truffles.

1 120— TOURNEDOS PARMENTIER

Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them in the form of
a crown.

In the middle of the dish or round it set a fine heap of
potatoes, cut into regular cubes of two-thirds inch side, or raised
by means of an oval, grooved spoon-cutter. The potatoes
should be cooked in butter and kept very soft.

Slightly sprinkle the potatoes with chopped parsley.

1 12 1— TOURNEDOS PERSANE

Prepare as many green capsicums, stuffed with rice moulded
to the shape of balls and braised, and as many grilled half-
tomatoes as there are tournedos. Also have some fried slices
of banana ready, and allow three for each tournedos.

Fry the tournedos in butter and dish them, in the form of a
crown, on the grilled half-tomatoes. On each tournedos set a
stuffed and braised capsicum.

In the centre of the dish arrange the fried slices of banana
in a nice heap. Send separately to the table a Chateaubriand
sauce, combined with the reduced braising-liquor of the
capsicums.

374 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

II22— TOURNEDOS P^RUVIENNE

Prepare, after the manner described below, as many oxalis
roots as there are tournedos.

Peel the oxalis roots; cut a slice from underneath them, in
order to make them stand upright, and hollow them out to
form little cases.

Chop up the pulp extracted from them in the last operation,
and add it to a preparation of duxelles, made as for stuffed
mushrooms.

Fill the oxalis cases with this preparation, shaping it above
their edges after the manner of a dome ; besprinkle with raspings
and oil, and put them in the oven in good time for them to be
ready at the same time as the tournedos.

Grill the tournedos, dish them in the form of a crown, and
surround them with the oxalis cases.

1 123— TOURNEDOS PIEMONTAISE

Butter as many tartlet-moulds as there are tournedos; fill
them with Rizotto k la Pidmontaise, combined with white
truffles cut into dice, and keep them hot.

Fry the tournedos in clarified butter ; dish them, in the form
of a crown, on the rizotto tartlets, turned out at the last minute.

1 124— TOURNENOS PROVENCALE

For ten tournedos, prepare (i) ten medium-sized mush-
rooms, stuffed with duxelles, slightly flavoured with garlic, and
put in the oven in good time; (2) ten half-tomatoes k la Pro-
ven9ale (No. 2266),

Fry the tournedos in equal quantities of butter and oil ;
dish them, in the form of a crown, on fried crusts, with a half-
tomato upon each, and around them set the stuffed mushrooms.

1 125— TOURNEDOS RACHEL

Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them, in the form of
a crown, on fried crusts one-third inch thick.

On each tournedos set a small artichoke-bottom, garnished
with a large slice of poached marrow.

Send a Bordelaise sauce separately.

1 126— TOURNEDOS ROSSINI

Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them, in the form of
a crown, upon fried crusts.

On each tournedos set a round slice of foie gras, just a little
smaller than the former ; the slices should be seasoned, dredged,
and fried in butter.

On each slice of foie-gras, set a fine slice of truffle.

RELEVES AND ENTREES 375

1127— TOURNEDOS ROUMANILLp

Cut the tournedos a little smaller than usual. Season them ;
fry them in butter, and dish them in a circle on grilled half-
tomatoes.

Coat the tournedos with Mornay sauce, and set them to
glaze quickly.

In the middle of each tournedos set a large stuffed and
poached olive, encircled by a ring consisting of an anchovy
fillet.

In the centre of the dish arrange a fine heap of egg-plant
roundels, seasoned with salt and pepper, dredged, fried in oil,
and kept very crisp.

H28-TOURNEDOS SAINT MAND16

Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them, in the form of
a circle, each on a little cushion of " pommes de terre Macaire,"
moulded in ordinary tartlet-moulds.

In the centre of the dish set a garnish consisting of peas
cohered with butter.

1 129— TOURNEDOS A LA SARDE

Prepare a garnish of (i) hollowed, parboiled, and braised
sections of cucumber, stuffed with duxelles, and gratined ; (2)
small tomatoes, similarly treated; (3) small round croquettes
of rice flavoured with saffron, thickened with egg-yolks, treated
a I'anglaise, and fried.

Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them in the form of
a crown.

Set a croquette of rice upon each tournedos, and frame
the whole with the stuffed cucumber cases and the stuffed
tomatoes, laid alternately.

1 130— TOURNEDOS SOUBISE

Grill the tournedos and dish them in the form of a crown.
Serve a light Soubise purde separately.

1 13 1— TOURNEDOS TIVOLI

For ten tournedos, prepare ten small grilled mushrooms,
and allow one half-tomato tossed in butter for each mushroom.

Fry the tournedos in butter and dish them, in the form of a
crown, upon fried crusts. On each tournedos set a grilled
mushroom, garnished with a tossed half-tomato, and all round
set some fine "pommes souffldes " made in ribbon-form, of a
round shape, and in the proportion of one potato to each
tournedos.

Send a B6arnaise sauce separately.

376 GUliDE TO MODERN COOkERY

1 132— TOURNEDOS TYROLIENNE

For ten tournedos, prepare the following sauce : ^Gently
cook one chopped onion in butter ; add two peeled, pressed, and
roughly-chopped tomatoes, salt, pepper, chopped parsley, and
a little crushed garlic.

When the tomatoes are sufficiently cooked, add thereto a
few tablespoonfuls of poivrade sauce, and set to boil for five
minutes.

Fry the tournedos in butter; dish them in the form of a
crown, and cover them with the prepared sauce.

1 133— TOURNEDOS VALENCAY

Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them in the form of a
crown, each on a small, round, and flat croquette of noodles and
ham, fried just before dishing up.

Send a Chateaubriand sauce separately.

1 134— TOURNEDOS VALENTINO

Prepare as many pieces of turnips, of the same diameter as
the tournedos and one and one-half inch thick, as there are
tournedos. Cut them neatly round, stamp them with an even
and round cutter, and parboil them until they are almost com-
pletely cooked. Hollow them out, by means of a spoon, inside
the mark left by the fancy-cutter, and stuff them with a pre-
paration of semolina with Parmesan.

Put these stuffed pieces of turnip in a saut^pan ; add a little
water, butter, and sugar, and glaze them while finishing their
cooking-process.

Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them in a circle, each
on a stuffed case of turnip.

"35— TOURNEDOS VERT=PR^

Grill the tournedos, and dish them simply with half-melted
butter a la Maitre-d' Hotel upon them.

Surround them with alternate heaps of water-cress and
freshly-fried straw potatoes.

1 136— TOURNEDOS VICTORIA

Fry the tournedos in butter.

Dish them in a circle, each on a little round and flat
croquette of chicken-meat. On each tournedos set a half-tomato
tossed in butter.

H37— TOURNEDOS VILLARET

Prepare (r) as many tartlet-crusts as there are tournedos;
(2) a sufficient quantity of very smooth flageolet puree to garnish
the tartlets; (3) a fine grilled tomato per each tournedos.

RfiLEVES AND ENTREES 377

Grill the tournedos, and dish them on the garnished tartlets.
On each tournedos set a grilled mushroom, the hollow of which
should have been filled with Chateaubriand sauce.

1 1 38— TOURNEDOS VILLENEUVE

Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them in a circle on
little quoit-shaped croquettes of chicken-meat, fried at the last
moment.

On each tournedos set a crown of small roundels of tongue
and truffle, laid alternately, and a small grooved mushroom in
the middle.

Send a Chateaubriand sauce separately.

1 139— TOURNEDOS VILLEMER

Grill the tournedos, and dish them in a circle, each on a
fried, hollowed-out crust, garnished with truffled Soubise.

On each tournedos set a large slice of truffle coated with
meat-glaze.

1 140— FILETS EN CHEVREUIL

For the " en chevreuil " treatment, the meat used is gener-
ally cut from the narrowest end of the fillet of beef. The weight
of the pieces cut should average about three oz. each.

After having slightly flattened and trimmed them, lard them
with very thin strips of bacon, and marinade them for a few
hours in the raw marinade given under No. 169. When about
to cook them, dry them thoroughly, and fry them quickly in hot
oil, taking care that the latter be smoking, and therefore hot
enough to set the meat and to cause its external moisture to
evaporate.

The fillets may be accompanied by all vegetable purees and
highly-seasoned sauces, the most suitable of the latter being
the Poivrade and the Chasseur.

1 141— SIRLOIN OF BEEF (Releve)
Sirloin of beef is that part of the bullock's back reaching
from the haunch to the floating ribs, which is equivalent to the
saddle in veal and mutton. This piece, however, cannot pro-
perly be called "sirloin," except when it comprises the fillet
or undercut, and the upper fillet (Fr. : contrefilet), so-called to
distinguish it from the undercut. If this joint be treated
whole, it need only be shortened by suppressing the flank, and
by sectioning the ligament lying alongside of the chine on the
upper fillet, in different places.

A little fat is left on the undercut, but none whatever must
be removed from the upper fillet. As a rule, when sirloin of
beef is braised, it is cut laterally into pieces weighing from

378 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

six to seven lbs. If it is to be roasted, it is best to keep it
whole.

When served as a relev^, it is braised or roasted, and is
kept underdone if so desired. Unless it be of excellent quality,
however, braised sirloin generally turns out to be dry.

All garnishes given for "Filet de Boeuf " may be served
with sirloin; but, as a rule, the bulkiest, such as the " Riche-
lieu," the " Proven9ale," the " Godard," &c., are selected.

The accompanying sauce is that indicated for the above
garnishes.

1 142— PORTERHOUSE-STEAK (Grill)

Porterhouse-steak is a slice from the sirloin of beef, which
may be more or less thick. It is cleared of the flank and of
the bones of the chine, and it is always grilled.

It may be served with any of the various garnishes and
sauces suited to grills; but it is more often served plain.

1 143— UPPER FILLET AND RIBS OF BEEF (Relev^)

The upper fillet is that part of beef which lies between the
top of the haunch and the floating ribs, alongside of the chine.
It may be treated like the fillet, and all the garnishes suited
to the latter may also be applied here.

If the piece is to be braised, it should be completely boned ;
if intended for roasting, it is best to retain the bones. In the
latter case, the large ligament should be cut at various points
with the view of preventing distortion, while the bones con-
stituting the spinous process should be broken close to the point
where they join the body of the vertebrae, that they may be
easily removed when the meat is being carved.

The upper fillet, especially when it is of good quality, is
best roasted.

Ribs of beef may likewise be braised or roasted.

In either case, the meat should be properly trimmed and
cleared of all the bones of the spinous process.

This piece should only be used after having been well hung,
in order that it may be as tender as possible.

1 144— GRILLED SIRLOIN STEAKS AND RIBS OF BEEF

The sirloin steak may be cut either from the upper fillet or
the ribs of beef, i.e., between two rib-bones. In order that its
cooking may be regular, it should not weigh more than from
two to three lbs.

Ribs of beef may also be grilled, provided they be sufficiently
tender.

RELEVES AND ENTREES 379

They may be braised, too, and in this case they are served
with any of the various garnishes given under Fillet of Beef.

1 145— PIECE DE BCEUF BRAIS^E (Releve)
The piece of beef called rump is the one preferred for boiling
and braiding. Whatever be the use for which the meat is in-
tended, the weight of the pieces should not be more than six
or eight lbs. at the most, and they should be cut in the length
rather than in the thickness, that the cooking process may be
facilitated.

All the garnishes of braised sirloin of beef are suited to
braised pieces of beef.

Boiled beef is generally accompanied by the vegetables used
in its cooking-process, by purees, green or dry vegetables,
pastes, macaroni, &c., &c.

1146— PIECE DE B(EUF A LA BOURQUIGNONNE

Lard the piece of beef, and marinade it for three hours in
brandy and red wine. Braise it after the manner described
under No. 247 ; moisten first with the wine of the marinade,
and, when the latter is reduced, with some veal gravy and one-
half pint of Espagnole sauce per quart of liquid, taking care
that the whole moistening reaches the top of the piece of meat.
Add a faggot and some mushroom parings; set to boil, and
cook gently in the oven.

When the meat is two-thirds cooked, transfer it to another
saucepan, and surround it with mushrooms cut into two or four,
according to their size, and tossed in butter; breast of bacon,
cut into dice, blanched and tossed in butter, and some small
onions half-glazed with butter.

Strain the sauce through a sieve over the piece of beef and
its garnish, and complete the cooking gently.

A few minutes before serving, put the meat on a dish and
glaze it in the oven. Transfer the meat to the dish intended
for the table; quickly reduce the sauce if necessary, and pour
it over the piece of beef and the garnish.

1 147— PifiCE DE B(EUF A LA CUILLER

Select a very square or oval piece of beef, and bear in mind,
in selecting it, that it will have to be fashioned to the shape of
a case when it has been cooked.

String it, and braise it after the manner described under
No. 247, almost entirely covering it with moistening liquor.

Set it to cook gently; withdraw the piece when the meat is
still somewhat firm, and let it cool under slight pressure.

38o GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

This done, cut out the meat from the inside; leave a thick-
ness of about half-inch round the sides and on the bottom, and
the piece thus emptied should constitute a square or oval case,
in accordance with the shape originally adopted.

Coat the outside of the whole piece with a mixture of beaten
eggs and fine bread-crumbs, combined with Parmesan ; sprinkle
melted butter over it with a brush, and put the case into a
sufficiently hot oven to allow of a crust forming round it.

Meanwhile chop up the meat extracted from the inside of
the piece ; add thereto a little salted tongue, some braised slices
of sweet-bread, and mushrooms ; put the whole into a saut^pan
with an Italian or a half-glaze sauce, according to the require-
ments, and heat this garnish.

N.B. — This preparation was quite common in old-fashioned
cookery, but though it is still served occasionally, it is now
looked upon more as a curiosity than anything else. As a
curiosity, therefore, I chose to include it among these recipes;
but it does not follow from this that I in any way recommend it.

1 148— PIECE DE B(EUF A LA FLAMANDE

Lard the piece of beef, and braise it as explained under
No. 247.

Meanwhile prepare the following garnish : — (i) Cut a nice
firm cabbage into four, remove the heart, and parboil it for
seven or eight minutes. Drain it; cool it; divide up the
quarters, leaf by leaf, so as to remove the hard ribs, and season
with salt and pepper.

Mould them to the shape of balls by pressing them in the
corner of a towel into balls weighing about three oz. each, or
simply put them into a saucepan with a quartered carrot, an
onion stuck with a clove, a faggot, six oz. of blanched breast
of pork, and a little raw sausage with garlic, which latter must
be withdrawn after cooking has gone on for one and one-half
hours.

Moisten the cabbage with just sufficient consomm^ to cover
it; add a few tablespoonfuls of good stock-fat; set to boil, and
cook gently in the oven for one and one-half hours.

(2) Cut the required quantity of carrots and turnips to the
shape of olives ; cook them in consomm^, and reduce the latter
for the purpose of glazing.

(3) Prepare some potatoes d I'anglaise.

Set the piece of beef on a dish large enough to allow of the
former being surrounded with the moulded or plainly-heaped
cabbages, the glazed carrots arid turnips, and the potatoes d

RELEVES AND ENTREES 381

I'anglaise. The last two vegetables should be set in alternate
heaps with the cabbages and the bacon (cut into small rectangles)
and the sausage (cut into roundels) should be distributed all
round.

Serve separately the gravy of the piece of beef, cleared of all
grease, reduced to a half-glaze and strained.

1 149— PIECE DE BCEUF A LA MODE CHAUDE

Lard the piece of beef, which should not, if possible, weigh
more than from four to five lbs. The strips of bacon used for
larding ought to have been prepared fifteen or twenty minutes
in advance, marinaded in a few tablespoonfuls of brandy, and
sprinkled with parsley just before being used.

Rub the piece with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and put it into
a basin with one bottle of red wine and one-fifth pint of brandy,
and set it to marinade for four or five hours, taking care to
turn it over from time to time.

Then set it to braise after the manner described under No.
247 ; add its marinade to the moistening, and surround it with
three small, boned, blanched, and strung calf's feet.

When the cooking is three-quarters done, transfer the piece
of beef to another saucepan, and surround it with the following
garnish : —

1. About one-quarter lb. of carrots turned to the shape of
elongated olives, and already two-thirds cooked.

2. Small onions coloured in two-thirds lb. of butter,

3. The calf's feet cut into small, square, or rectangular
pieces.

Strain the braising-Iiquor over the whole, and complete the
cooking gently. When about to serve, either glaze the piece
of beef, or dish it plain ; coat it lightly with sauce, and send
what remains of the latter, with the garnish, in a timbale.

I ISO— PIECE DE BCEUF A LA MODE FROIDE

Boeuf k la mode is very rarely prepared specially for cold
dishing, the remains of a fine piece being generally used for
that purpose. The piece of meat must first be well trimmed.
If the quantity of sauce do not seem enough, or if the sauce
itself seem too stiff, add a third of its volume of aspic jelly
to it.

For moulding, take a terrine a pate, a mould, or other utensil
capable of holding the piece of meat, its garnish, and its sauce.
Deck the bottom of the utensil in any suitable way with the
carrots and the onions, and surround the piece with what
remains of the latter and the dice of calf's foot,

382 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

Add the sauce, combined with the jelly, after having passed
it through a strainer, and put the whole in the cool for a few
hours. Turn out just before serving, and surround with very
light, chopped jelly.

1 151— PIECE DE BCEUF A LA NOAILLES

Lard the piece of beef, and marinade it in brandy and red
wine.

This done, dry it thoroughly, and brown it evenly in butter
all over ; moisten it with its marinade and an equal quantity of
veal gravy, and set to cook gently.

When the meat is half-cooked, surround it with two lbs. of
minced onions, tossed in butter, and three oz. of rice. Complete
the cooking of the piece with onions and rice.

Now withdraw the piece of beef, and quickly rub the onions
and the rice through tammy. Reduce this Soubise with rice for
a few moments.

Neatly trim the piece of beef; cut it into even slices; recon-
struct it on a dish, and between each slice pour a tablespoonful
of Soubise puree.

Cover the reconstructed piece of beef with the remainder of
the Soubise; sprinkle the surface with two tablespoonfuls of
bread-crumbs fried in butter, and some melted butter, and put
the whole in the oven, that the gratin may form speedily.

1152— THE RUMP

RUMPSTEAK AND BEEFSTEAK.

The rump is that portion of the sirloin of beef which touches
the top of the haunch.

It may be braised, but it is more often grilled in slices from
one inch to one and one-half inches thick, which are called
" rumpsteaks."

With reference to this subject, it is as well to point out that
the term " Beefsteak," so hackneyed in France, is scarcely used
in England, owing to its want of precision.

In France, beefsteak is either a cut from the fillet, the upper-
fillet, or the rump, according to the standing of the catering-
house which supplies it. But the nature of the piece cannot
very well be mistaken, inasmuch as the term beefsteak, which
designates it, is generally followed by other French words which
reveal its origin, whereas in England the term "Beefsteak"
does not convey any particular meaning.

Rumpsteak is either grilled or sauted, but whatever be the
method of cooking it, it is generally served plain.

RELEVES AND ENTREES 383

All garnishes suited to fillets, however, may be served with
it, as also the various butters and sauces generally used with
grills.

IIS3— LANGUE DE BCEUF

Ox tongue is served fresh or salted, but, even when it is to
be served fresh, it is all the better for having been put in salt
a few days previously. In order to salt it, put it into a special
brine, as explained under No. 174. When salted^ it is cooked
in boiling water; when fresh, it is braised exactly after the
manner of any other piece of meat.

Ox tongue may be served with almost all the garnishes suited
to relev^s of fillet of beef, but more particularly with the fol-
lowing: — Bourgeoise; Flamande; Milanaise; Noodles or
Macaroni with cream, cheese or tomatoes; and all vegetable
purees.

The most suitable sauces are : — Madeira sauce, Piquante
sauce, Tomato sauce, or their derivatives.

II54— LANQUE DE BCEUFCHOUCROUTE

Braise the tongue as described under No. 247, and glaze it
at the last moment. Dish it, and send to the table separately
(i) a timbale of well-braised sauerkraut; (2) a timbale of potato
pur^e; (3) a Madeira sauce, combined with the braising-liquor
of the tongue, cleared of all grease, and reduced.

,,S5_LANQUE DE BOEUF BOURGEOISE

Braise the tongue in the usual way.

When it is two-thirds cooked, surround it with carrots
fashioned to the shape of olives and already two-thirds cooked,
and small onions browned in butter.

Complete the cooking gently, and for the rest of the opera-
tion, proceed as for " Piece de Boeuf k la Mode chaude."

1156— LANGUE DE BCEUF AUX FEVES

Tongue intended for this preparation should be put in salt
a few days in advance.

Boil it in the usual way and very gently; glaze it when
about to serve, and dish it. Send to the table separately (i) a
timbale of very fresh, skinned, broad beans, cooked in salted
water with a spray of savory, and cohered with butter at the
last moment.

(2) A Madeira sauce.

1 157— LANGUE DE BCEUF FLAMANDE

Braise the tongue, and glaze it at the last moment. Sur-
round it with the garnish " k la Flamande " given under the beef

384 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

recipe of that name, i.e., braised cabbages, glazed carrots and
turnips, potatoes a I'anglaise, rectangles of lean bacon, and
roundels of sausage.

1158— LANQUES DE BCEUF FROIDES

Ox tongues intended for cold dishing should be kept in
brine (No. 172) for eight or ten days. When about to use them,
put them to soak in cold water for a few hours, and then cook
them plainly in water for three hours.

This done, withdraw them from their cooking-liquor; skin
them; cover them with buttered paper, and let them cool. The
object of the paper is to keep off the air, the tendency of which
is to blacken the surface of the meat.

When quite cool, coat the tongues with a glaze composed of
one-half lb. of gelatine dissolved in one pint of water; the latter
is given a scarlet tint by means of carmine and caramel.

Cold ox tongues are dished amidst aspic jelly dice and curled-
leaf parsley.

N.B. — The gelatine glaze described above will be found a
great improvement upon the coating of reddened gold-beaters'
skin.

OX TAILS.

Ox tails, sectioned or unsectioned, are usually braised, and
only the thicker half of the caudal appendage is ever used.

1159-QUEUE DE BCEUF A L'AUVERQNATE

Section the tail, and braise it in white wine, after recipe
No. 247.

Prepare a garnish of rectangles of lean bacon, large chestnuts
cooked in consomme and glazed, and small onions cooked in
butter.

Put the sections of the tail in an earthenware cocotte with
the garnish.

1 160— QUEUE DE BCEUF A LA CAVOUR

Section the tail, and braise it in a moistening two-thirds of
which is brown stock and one-third white wine. It is well for
the moistening to be somewhat abundant. Set to cook very
gently, until the meat falls from the bones, i.e., for a matter of
about four and one-half or five hours.

This done, dish the sections of the tail in a cocotte ; add
some small, cooked mushrooms; clear the cooking-liquor of
grease; reduce it, and thicken it slightly with fecula. Strain

RELEVES AND ENTREES 385

this thickened cooking-liquor over the sections of the tail and
the mushrooms, and set to boil very gently for ten minutes.

Serve thus in the cocotte set on a dish, and send a timbale
of chestnut pur^e to the table at the same time.

ii6i— QUEUE DE BCEUF FARCIE

Choose a large ox tail, and bone it carefully without burst-
ing it.

Lay it on a napkin, and stuff it with a forcemeat consisting
of the following ingredients : — Three-quarters lb. of very lean
beef and one-half lb. of chopped fat bacon, the two mixed with
four oz. of bread-crumbs soaked in milk and pressed; two whole
eggs; three oz. of truffle peel; one-half oz. of salt, a pinch of
pepper, and a very little spice.

Sew up the tail, cover it with a piece of linen after the
manner of a galantine, and cook it gently for three hours in a
very light stock with vegetables as for boiled beef.

At the end of the three hours take it out of the linen ; put it
into a saut^pan, the bottom of which should be garnished as
for a braising ; add a little of the cooking-liquor of the tail, and
complete the cooking, basting often the while. Take care to
baste more frequently towards the close of the operation with the
view of properly glazing the meat.

When about to serve, dish it, after having removed all
string, and lightly coat the bottom of the dish with a sauce
consisting of the cooking-liquor, reduced and thickened with
arrow-root. Send what remains of the cooking-liquor in a
sauceboat.

Serve separately either a pur^e, a garnish of braised vege-
tables, or one of the sauces suited to pieces of beef.

1 162— QUEUE DE BCEUF QRILLEE

Cut the tail into sections twice the usual length, and cook
these in a stewpan for five hours with salted water and aromatics.

Drain the sections; dry them well; dip them in melted
butter, and roll them in very fine bread-crumbs. Sprinkle with
melted butter, and set to grill gently.

Grilled ox tail may be served with any vegetable pur6e. An
ordinary Soubise, or one prepared " k la Noailles," as ex-
plained under the piece of beef of that name, also suits very
well.

In any case, the Soubise should be sufficiently thick.

Such sauces as k la Diable, Hach6e, Piquante, Robert,
Tomato, Italienne, &c., are also suited to grilled ox tail.

N.B. — When* the adjunct to grilled ox tail is a highly-

C C

386 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

seasoned sauce, the sections should first be covered with a coat
of mustard, then dipped in melted butter, and finally rolled in
bread-crumbs.

1 163— QUEUE DE BCEUF EN HOCHEPOT

Cut the tail into sections, and put these into a stewpan of
convenient size, with two pig's trotters, each of which must
be cut into four or five pieces, and one pig's ear. Cover the
whole with cold water; add salt to the extent of one-third oz,
per quart of the liquid ; set to boil ; skim, and leave to cook
gently for two hours.

This done, add one small cabbage, cut into quarters, par-
boiled and cooled; ten small onions; five oz. of carrots, and the
same weight of turnips, cut to the shape of large, garlic cloves.

Set the whole to cook for a further two hours at least.

When about to serve, dish the sections of tail in a circle;
put the vegetable garnish in the centre, and surround the latter
with the pig's ear cut into small, narrow strips, and ten grilled
chipolata sausages.

Serve, separately, a timbale of potatoes cooked a I'anglaise.

Various Preparations of Beef.
1164— STEWED STEAKS AND ONIONS

Select some steaks one and one-third inches thick ; fry them
in butter on both sides, and set them to braise in short moisten-
ing, with a sufficient quantity of quartered and browned onions
to constitute an abundant garnish.

Leave the whole to cook gently for three hours.

Dish the steak, and surround it with the onions and the
braising-liquor cleared of all grease and reduced.

H65— SALT BEEF

The pieces of beef chiefly selected for salting are brisket,
silver side, and round of beef, and these are always boiled for
a more or less lengthy period, according to their size.

To the cooking-liquor is added a copious garnish of carrots
and turnips. These are served with the meat, together with a
sauceboat of cooking-liquor and a suet dumpling, prepared as
follows : —

1 166— SUET DUMPLING

Finely chop up some suet; add to it an equal quantity of

flour and about one-quarter oz. of salt per lb. of suet and flour.

Moisten with just enough water to make a thick paste of

RELEVES AND ENTREES 387

about the same consistence as brioche-paste. Cut this paste
into portions weighing about one oz., and roll them into small
balls. Put the latter in a saut^pan containing some boiling
beef cooking-liquor, which need not have been cleared of grease,
and let them poach for one and one-half hours.

Now drain the dumplings, and arrange them around the
meat with the garnish of carrots and turnips, as explained above.

1 167— COLD SALT BEEF

Salt beef, served cold, constitutes an excellent sideboard dish
for luncheons.

It need only be neatly trimmed all round, care being taken
to preserve all the fat so highly esteemed by some. Indeed, a
piece of cold salt fat is sometimes added to that already existing
around and in the meat, in which case the extra quantity is
fixed to the beef by means of a hatelet.

1 168— PRESSED BEEF

Salt beef also serves in the preparation of " Pressed Beef,"
but, for this purpose, the breast is generally used.

After having thoroughly cooked the salted breast of beef in
accordance with the procedure indicated for salt beef, cut it into
large pieces of the same size as the moulds into which the meat
is going to be pressed. Lay the pieces of beef one on top of
another in a square or rectangular mould, and cover with a
thick board, cut flush with the inside edge of the mould. Now
apply pressure, either by means of a strong press or heavy
weight, and leave the beef to cool under the applied pressure.

When the meat is quite cold, turn it out; trim it carefully
on all sides, and glaze it, i.e., cover it entirely with a coating
of rather firm, clarified gelatine, brought by means of carmine
and caramel to a nice red-brown colour.

1 1 69— STEAK AND KIDNEY PUDDING

Cut three lbs. of very lean beef into slices one-third inch
thick.

Season these slices with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and add
a little chopped onion and parsley. Take a pudding-basin ;
line it with a firm layer of suet-dough (No. 1166), and garnish
the bottom and sides of the basin with the slices of beef.

In the middle put one lb. of kidney of beef, of veal, or of
mutton, cut up as for tossing, and seasoned like the steaks.
Moisten with just sufficient water to cover.

Now close up the basin with a layer of the same paste as
that used in lining, pinching it with the latter, all round, that
it may adhere thoroughly. In order to effect this with greater

c c 2

388 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

certainty, the respective edges of the two layers of paste may
be moistened.

This done, cover the basin with a buttered and dredged
napkin, fastened on by means of string tied round just beneath
the Hp of the utensil. Cook for five hours, either in boiling
water or in steam, and, after having removed the napkin, serve
the pudding as it stands.

1 1 70— STEAK PUDDING

Make some rather stiff paste with two lbs. of flour, one and
one-quarter lbs. of the chopped fat of kidney of beef, a pinch
of salt, and one-quarter pint of water.

With the rolling-pin, roll out this paste to a round layer
one-quarter inch thick, and put it into a buttered dome-mould
or pudding-basin.

Cut the lean beef into pieces, and season them, exactly as
for steak and kidney pudding. Fill up the basin with the
pieces arranged in layers; moisten with just enough water to
cover, and close up the basin with a layer of the same paste
as that used for its lining.

Carefully join the edges of the two layers of paste, assisting
the operation with a little moisture applied by means of a brush ;
swathe the basin in a buttered pudding-cloth, and fasten the
latter firmly with string.

Put the pudding in a saucepan of boiling water or a steamer,
and leave it to cook for three hours if the beef has been cut
from the fillet, and for four hours if cut from any other piece.

At the end of the required time take the pudding out of the
saucepan and remove the cloth.

Dish on a folded napkin.

1 171— STEAK AND OYSTER PUDDING

Proceed exactly as for steak and kidney pudding, but take
only two lbs. of beef, and replace the odd pound by forty fine
oysters.

1172— DAUBE CHAUDE A LA PROVEN^ALE

Cut four lbs. of shoulder or cushion of beef into cubes
weighing about four oz. each. Lard each piece of meat with
a strip of bacon two inches long by one-half inch wide, and
put the cubes or pieces into a bowl with salt, pepper, a very
little spice, five or six tablespoonfuls of vinegar, and a glass
of red wine. Leave to marinade for two or three hours, and
toss the pieces, from time to time, in the marinading liquor, in
order that each may be well saturated with it. Heat six oz. of

RELEVES AND ENTREES 389

grated bacon in an earthenware stewpan, and brown therein
twelve small onions, fifteen carrots in the shape of olives, two
sticks of celery cut into pieces of the same size as the carrots,
and four cloves of garlic. Add the marinaded pieces of meat,
which should have been properly dried; fry the whole, meat
and vegetables, for a further seven or eight minutes, and
moisten with the marinade and two glasses more of red wine.

Complete with one-half lb. of fresh bacon rind, blanched and
cut into square pieces of two-thirds inch side; a faggot made
up of parsley stalks, thyme, bay, and, in the centre, a small
piece of dry lemon rind. Set to boil, completely close the stew-
pan, and leave to cook in a moderate oven for six or seven hours.

When about to serve, remove the faggot, clear all grease
from the gravy, and dish in a hot timbale, or serve the " daube "
in the stewpan itself.

1 173— DAUBE A LA PROVENCALE FROIDE

A daube is rarely prepared specially for cold dishing ; gene-
rally the remains of one already served hot are used.

Take the pieces, one by one, with a fork, and place them in
a terrine a pate with the carrots, onions, and squares of bacon
rind, which have remained almost untouched.

Strain the gravy over them through an ordinary strainer,
pressing lightly the while, and leave to cool.

When about to serve, turn out the daube on a cold dish, and
surround with chopped aspic jelly.

1174— CARBONNADES A LA FLAMANDE

Cut three lbs. of lean shoulder or cushion of beef into thin,
short slices. Season the latter with salt and pepper, and brown
them quickly on both sides in stock fat. At the same time toss
one and one-quarter lbs. of minced onions in butter, until they
are well browned.

Put the slices of beef and the onions in alternate layers into
a saucepan, and in their midst place a faggot.

Drain the grease from the sautdpan in which the slices were
fried; swill with one and one-half pints of beer (old Lambic in
preference) ; add the same quantity of brown stock, thicken with
four oz. of brown roux; finish the seasoning with one and one-
half oz. of powdered sugar; set to boil, stirring the while, and
strain this sauce over the slices of beef and the onions.

Cover and cook gently in the oven for from two and one-half
to three hours.

N.B. — Carbonades are served thus, mingled with the
onions; but they may also be dished in a timbale and covered

390 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

with a Soubise consisting of the onion and the sauce rubbed
through tammy.

1175— EMINC6 DE B(EUF

Cold roast or boiled meats may be warmed up in many
different ways.

In their preparation, however, the reader should follow one
rule, the non-observance of which invariably leads to failure.

Whatever the meat be, it should first be cut into the thinnest
possible slices ; set on a dish, and covered with a boiling sauce
or garnish, which should effect its warming up. If the meat
boil in the sauce or garnish, it toughens, and this, above all,
should be avoided when roast meat is used.

Sauces suited to Eminces are the Bordelaise, the Piquante,
the Italienne, the Chasseur, the Poivrade, the P^rigueux, and
the Tomato.

1176— EM1NC6 DE BffiUF EN MIROTON

For one lb. of beef mince two fine onions somewhat finely,
and toss them in butter until they are evenly and well gilded.

Sprinkle with one-half tablespoonful of flour; set to cook
for a moment, and then moisten with one-half glassful of white
wine and one-half pint of consomm6 ; season with a pinch of
pepper; boil, and leave to cook gently for seven or eight minutes.

The flour may be dispensed with, but, in this case, the white
wine is reduced to two-thirds, one-half pint of half-glaze is
added, and the whole is cooked for seven or eight minutes.

Cut the beef into very thin slices, and set these on a dish.

A minute before serving, add a few drops of vinegar to the
onions; cover the meat with the onions and the sauce; stand
the dish for a moment on the hob, and sprinkle it slightly
with chopped parsley.

N.B. — When the miroton is prepared with boiled beef, the
slices should be cut somewhat more thickly, and left to simmer
gently in the sauce for as long as possble — an hour or more if
necessary.

The miroton is then dished with some minced gherkins,
sprinkled with raspings, and placed in the oven at the last
moment for the gratin to form.

1177— QOULASH DE BCEUF A LA HONGROISE

Cut three lbs. of ribs or shoulder of beef into squares weigh-
ing about three oz. each. Fry these pieces on a moderate lire
in four oz. of lard, together with one-half lb. of onions cut into
large dice, until the latter acquire a nice, even, golden colour.

RELEVES AND ENTREES 391

Season with one-third oz. of salt and the necessary quantity of
paprika; add one and one-quarter lbs. of peeled, pressed, and
quartered tomatoes, and one-sixth pint of water.

Cover and cook in the oven for one and one-half hours.

This done, add one-third pint of water and one and one-
quarter lbs. of quartered potatoes to the Goulash.

Continue the cooking in the oven, basting often the while,
and do not stop the operation until the moistening-liquor is
entirely reduced. When about to serve, dish the Goulash in
a timbale.

1178— HACHIS DE BCEUF A L'AMERICAINE

Cut the meat into small cubes.

Also cut into dice the same weight of potatoes as of meat.

Season these potatoes and toss them in butter.

This done, put half their quantity into a saucepan with the
meat dice, and cohere the whole with a few tablespoonfuls of
tomato sauce and reduced veal gravy. Heat without allowing
to boil; dish in a hot timbale; distribute the remainder of the
potatoes, which should be crisply fried, over the hash, and
sprinkle with a pinch of freshly-chopped parsley.

1 179— HACHIS DE BCEUF A PARMENTIER

Bake some fine potatoes in the oven.

The moment they are done, slice off a piece of their baked
shell, and remove the pulp from their insides by means of a
spoon handle.

Crush this pulp with a fork, and toss it in butter as for
" pommes de terre Macaire." Then add to it as much beef
in dice as there is pulp; two tablespoonfuls of chopped onion
cooked in butter per lb. of the preparation; a pinch of chopped
parsley, and a few drops of vinegar. Now toss the whole
together for a few minutes, and then fill the empty potato shells
with the preparation.

Sprinkle with Lyonnaise sauce rubbed through tammy, and
add as much of it as the hash will absorb.

Replace the portion of shell cut off at the first, that the
potatoes may seem untouched ; arrange them on a dish, and put
the latter in the oven for ten minutes. When about to serve,
dish the stuffed potatoes on a napkin.

1 180— TRIPES A LA MODE DE CAEN

In the preparation of this culinary speciality of Normandy,
a very common mistake is often made; to wit, that of using
calves' feet instead of those of the ox, an innovation to which
there are many objections.

392 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

In the first place, the gravy of the tripe cannot absorb so
much gelatine, and is indifferently thickened in consequence;
secondly, since calves' feet are much more tender than those
of the ox, the former get boiled to shreds before the cooking of
the tripe has been properly effected. This supposed improve-
ment on the old method is thus seen to actually run counter to
the end in view; but means there are, nevertheless, whereby
those who insist upon the use of calves' feet may be satisfied.
It is only necessary to braise a number of calves' feet before-
hand, the number being in proportion to the quantity of tripe,
and to add these to the latter a quarter of an hour before
serving.

Another mistake which obtains somewhat widely in respect
of this dish is the serving of it in a silver utensil — a method
quite as unreasonable as that of serving a Chaudfroid in an
earthenware dish.

By virtue of its simplicity, tripe should be served in either
sandstone or special earthenware stewpans, wherein heat is best
retained ; and the operator should rather direct his attention to
the serving of tripe as hot as possible, than to this or that
fanciful method of dishing, which really has no raison d'etre
in this case.

The Preparation of Trife. — Under the head of " beef tripe "
are understood : (i) The feet; (2) tripe proper, which comprises
the Paunch, the Honey-comb Bag, the Manyplies, and the
Reed.

First soak the tripe in cold water for some considerable
time ; then cut it into squares of two inches side.

For the seasoning and flavouring of tripe, complete in all
its parts, take : (Seasoning) one-quarter oz. of salt and a pinch
of pepper per lb.; (flavouring) four lbs. of onions stuck with
four cloves; three lbs. of carrots; one faggot, comprising two
lbs. of leeks, one-third lb. of parsley stalks, a sprig of thyme,
and a bay leaf.

Moisten with two quarts of good cider (not likely to turn
black while cooking, otherwise use water) ; one-half pint of
brandy or liqueur-cider.

The quantity of the moistening-liquor largely depends upon
the shape of the utensil ; a little less will be needed in the case
of a narrow one, and a little more in the case of a wide one.

In any case, however, the tripe should be just covered.

Treatment and Cooking-process. — Take a stewpan or brais-
ing-pan, just large enough to hold the tripe and the garnish.

On the bottom of this lay carrots, onions, seasoning, and
the four ox feet, boned and cut into fair-sized pieces.

RELEVES AND ENTREES 393

Add the tripe, placing the faggot in its midst; upon the
tripe lay the bones of the feet, broken lengthwise ; some slices
of beef-fat, well soaked in cold water; and, finally, the
moistening.

Cover the whole with a kind of galette of paste, consisting
of flour mixed with hot water and kept somewhat stiff, and fix
the paste well on to the edges of the utensil.

Place in the oven, and, when about two hours have elapsed
and the paste is well baked, close the utensil with its own cover.

In a regular and moderate oven, allow about ten hours for
the cooking.

The Dishing and Serving. — After taking the tripe out of
the oven, remove the cover of paste, the bones, the fat, the
carrots, the onions, and the faggot, and by means of a slice
withdraw the pieces of tripe and set them in the special earthen-
ware bowls, taking care to distribute the pieces, coming from
different portions of tripe, in such wise as to meet the demands
or fancies of the various consumers.

When the tripe has been transferred to the bowls, clear the
gravy of ail grease, and dole it out evenly among the number
of receptacles. It is best, now, to put the latter in a bain-
marie, for they must only be served quite hot, on chafers or
otherwise.

N.B. — (i) To make the dish to perfection, the tripe should
be put into special earthenware pots (wherein the heat is more
effectively concentrated), and cooked in a baker's or pastry-
cook's oven.

I dealt with the alternative of cooking tripe in a stewpan
in order to make provision for those who can avail themselves
of neither special pots nor a baker's oven.

(2) The measures I prescribe, namely, those of first laying
the slices of beef-fat upon the tripe, and then covering the
whole with a lid of paste, are intended to stop a too rapid
evaporation of the liquid — a contingency that must be guarded
against, more particularly in a kitchen oven — and to preserve
the whiteness of the tripe.

The cover of paste would be quite useless if a baker's oven
were available, for the latter not only ensures perfectly regular
heat, but also wanes regularly.

394 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

2. VEAL.

With the exception of veal sweetbreads, it cannot be denied
that this meat is considerably less popular in England than
abroad, nor does it ever seem to appear on important menus in
this country.

Of course, and the fact must not be lost sight of, English
veal is admittedly inferior in quality — badly fattened, and
mostly red, soft, and dry. Probably, therefore, its unpopularity
may be the indirect cause of its poor quality; for it is incon-
ceivable that a country so famous for cattle-rearing as England
undoubtedly is could not produce veal equal in quality to its
beef, mutton, and pork, if rearers thought it worth their while
to perfect that special branch of their business. Be this as it
may, almost all the best veal consumed in England comes from
the Continent, principally from France, Belgium, and Holland;
and, in this respect, I not only refer to the larger joints, but
to those odd parts such as the head, the liver, the sweetbreads,
&c., the continental quality of which is likewise very superior
to that of the English produce.

1181— SELLE DE VEAU (Relev6)

Saddle of veal is the only Relev^ of this meat which is
sometimes allowed to appear on an important menu, and it is,
in fact, a splendid and succulent joint.

It may be roasted, but I should urge the adoption of the
braising treatment, not only as a precaution against dryness,
but because of the fine stock yielded by the operation.

Whatever be the method of cooking, trim the saddle on one
side, flush with the bones of the pelvis, and up to the first
ribs on the other side. Then cut out the kidneys, leaving a
thick layer of fat on the under fillets or "filets mignons " ;
pare the flank on either side, in such wise that what is left of
it, when drawn under the saddle on either side, may just cover
the fillets above referred to. This flank should only be drawn
over the fillets after the inside of the joint has been salted;
then cover the top surface of the joint with slices of bacon,
and tie round with string, five or six times, that the bacon
and the flank may not shift.

When the saddle is intended for only a small number of
people, half of it may be used at a time; that is to say, one
fillet, in which case the joint may be cut in two, lengthwise.

The procedure for braising this piece is in pursuance of the
directions given under " The Braising of White Meats " (No.
248).

RELEVES AND ENTREES 395

The process of braising, whether it be in respect of the
saddle or other veal Relev6s, such as the cushion, the loin, the
neck, &c., demands particular care, must be accompanied by
frequent basting, and should always be carried on with short
moistening.

1182— SELLE DE VEAU A LA CHARTREUSE

Braise the saddle, and glaze it at the last moment, after
having removed the slices of bacon. Set it on a long dish,
and, at each end of the latter, place a chartreuse of vegetables.

Round the joint put a few tablespoonfuls of the braising-
liquor, cleared of all grease, reduced, and well-strained; and
serve what remains in a sauceboat.

Chartreuses of Vegetables. — Take two dome- or Charlotte-
moulds, capable of holding two-thirds of a quart. Butter them
liberally ; line them with buttered paper, and on the latter, over
the bottom and sides of the utensil, lay carrots, turnips, peas,
and French beans; each of which vegetables should be cooked
in a way suited to its nature. This operation, which is some-
what finicking, may either be effected on the plan of a draught-
board, or the different vegetables may be superposed in alter-
nate rows of varying colours.

When the moulds are garnished in this way, spread thereon,
over the vegetables, a layer of forcemeat softened with beaten
white of egg; the object of this measure is to keep the vegetable
decoration in position, and this is effected by the poaching of
the forcemeat before the chartreuse is filled with its garnish.

This done, fill the moulds to within one-third inch of their
brims with a Mac^doine of vegetables cohered by means of
stiff Bdchamel and cream, and cover with a layer of forcemeat.

Set these chartreuses to poach thirty-five minutes before
serving, and take care to let them rest for five minutes before
unmoulding them on either side of the saddle.

1 183— SELLE DE VEAU A LA METTERNICH

Braise the saddle, and, when it is ready, put it on a dish.
Now draw a line within one-half inch of its extreme edge on
either side and end, pressing the point of a small knife along
the meat in so doing.

Proceed in the same way on either side of the chine, and
remove the fillets from the joint, severing them from the bone
with care.

Cut the fillets into regular collops, keeping the knife some-
what at a slant.

In the double cavity left by the fillets spread a few table-
spoonfuls of Bechamel with paprika; return the colloped fillets

396 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

to their respective places in the joint, reconstructing them in
such wise as to malie them appear untouched; and between
the collops pour one-half tablespoonful of B6chamel and lay
two slices of truffle.

This done, cover the whole surface of the joint with
Bechamel sauce with paprika, and set to glaze quickly at the
salamander. Now, with a large slice, carefully transfer the
saddle to a dish.

Serve separately (i) the braising-liquor of the saddle, cleared
of all grease and reduced ; (2) a timbale of pilaff rice.

H84— SELLE DE VEAU A LA NELSON

Braise the saddle. When it is ready, remove the fillets,
proceeding exactly as described under " Selle k la Metternich,"
and cut the fillets in a similar manner.

In the cavities left by the fillets spread a few tablespoonfuls
of Soubise; return the colloped fillets to their place, and,
between the collops, place a thin slice of ham, of the same size
and shape as the adjacent piece of meat, and a little Soubise
sauce.

Having reconstructed the joint, cover its surface with a
layer, about one inch thick, of " Souffle au Parmesan," com-
bined with one quart of truffle pur^e.

Bind the joint with a strong band of buttered paper, for the
purpose of holding in the souffle, and set it to cook in a
moderate oven for fifteen minutes. After having taken the
saddle out of the oven, remove the paper band, and send it to
the table without changing the dish.

Send the braising-liquor, cleared of all grease, reduced and
strained, to the table separately.

1 185— SELLE DE VEAU A L'ORIENTALE

Braise the saddle; remove the fillets, and cut them into
collops as for " Selle k la Metternich." Garnish the cavities
with Soubise sauce " au currie " ; reconstruct the fillets, putting
a little of the same sauce between the collops, and coat the
surface of the piece with the sauce already referred to.

Surround the joint with braised celery, and serve its cooking
liquor and a timbale of pilaff rice separately.

1186— SELLE DE VEAU A LA PIEMONTAISE

Braise the saddle, and cut the fillets into collops as before.
When reconstructing the fillets, between the collops put a little
Bechamel sauce, combined with three and one-half oz. of grated
Parmesan and chree and one-half oz. of grated white truffles
per quart of the sauce.

RELEVES AND ENTREES 397

Coat the surface of the joint with the same sauce, and set
to glaze quickly.

Serve the braising-liquor, cleared of all grease and strained,
separately; as also a timbale of rizotto k la Pi6montaise (No.
2258).

1187— SELLE DE VEAU PRINCE ORLOFF

Braise the saddle and proceed as above, placing between
the collops of fillet a little Soubise sauce and a fine slice of
truffle.

Coat the surface of the joint with Mornay sauce, combined
with one quart of highly-seasoned Soubise, and set to glaze
quickly.

N.B. — This saddle may be accompanied either by a garnish
of asparagus-heads or by cucumbers with cream.

1 188— SELLE DE VEAU A LA ROMANOFF

Braise the saddle; remove the fillets, and cut the latter into
collops as for " Selle k la Metternich." Reconstruct the fillets,
placing a small quantity of minced mushrooms, cohered by
means of a few tablespoonfuls of cream, between the collops,
and coat the surface of the joint with highly-seasoned Bechamel
sauce, finished with four oz. of crayfish butter per quart.

Surround the piece with a border of braised half-fennels.
Serve the braising-liquor, cleared of all grease, reduced and
strained, separately.

1 1 89— SELLE DE VEAU A LA TOSCA

Braise the saddle, and then prepare it as for No. 1183.
Almost completely fill the cavities left by the fillets with a
garnish of macaroni, cut into short lengths, cohered with cream,
and combined with a julienne of truffles.

Reconstruct the fillets upon this garnish and coat the collops
with Mornay sauce, placing a slice of truffle between the collops.
The reconstructed fillets thus appear raised on either side of the
chine.

Coat the surface of the joint with the same sauce as that
already used, and set to glaze quickly. Send the braising-
liquor, cleared of all grease and strained, to the table separately.

1 190— SELLE DE VEAU A LA RENAISSANCE

Braise the saddle, and glaze it at the last moment. Dish it
and surround it with a large heap of cauliflower at either end ;
on either side, nice heaps of carrots and turnips, raised by
means of an" oval, grooved spoon-cutter, cooked in consomm^
and glazed; peas; French beans in lozenge-form; asparagus-

398 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

heads cohered with butter; and some small potatoes cooked in
butter.

Send the braising-liquor of the joint, cleared of grease and
strained, separately.

1191— SELLE DE VEAU A LA TALLEYRAND

Prepare twenty studs of truffle, about one inch long and
one-third oz. in weight. Stick them upright and symmetrically
into the meat of the joint, making way for them by means of
little incisions cut with a small knife. Now envelop the joint
in slices of larding bacon, string it, braise it, and glaze it at
the last moment.

Dish it with some of its braising-liquor, cleared of all grease
and reduced.

Serve separately (i) what remains of the braising-liquor;
(2) a garnish of macaroni, cut into half-inch lengths, cohered
with one and one-half oz. of butter, three oz. of grated Gruy^re
and Parmesan, combined with three oz. of foie gras, cut into
large dice, and three oz. of a julienne of truffles, per lb. of
macaroni.

1 192— SELLE DE VEAU FROIDE

Cold saddle of veal makes an excellent sideboard dish which
admits of all cold-dish garnishes, such as Mac^doines of vege-
tables cohered with jelly or mayonnaise sauce; artichoke-
bottoms and tomatoes, variously garnished; small, moulded
vegetable salads, &c.

Decorate it with fine, regular, jelly dice ; but its usual and
essential adjunct is its own braising-liquor, cooked, cleared of
grease poured carefully away, and served in a sauceboat without
having been either clarified or cleared.

All the pieces of veal given as relev6s, the cushion, the loin,
the fillet, and the fricahdeau, may be served cold like the saddle,
and are generally much appreciated, more particularly in
summer.

1 193— LOIN OF VEAL
ii94~NECK OF VEAL
1 195— SHORT LOIN OF VEAL
1 196— CHUMP OF VEAL OR QUASI
1 197— CUSHION OF VEAL (Relev^s)

I have grouped these various Relev^s together owing to
the identicalness of their garnishes.

The directions I give below for cushion of veal are, with a
very few exceptions which I shall point out, applicable to all
other large veal joints. In the circumstances, therefore, it
would be quite unnecessary to repeat the recipe in each case.

RELEVES AND ENTREES 399

Loin of Veal is that piece which corresponds with the sirloin
in beef. It extends from the floating ribs to the extreme end
of the haunch, the latter being cut flush with the pelvic bone
at its junction with the femur, and following the direction of
the former bone. The loin thus consists of two distinct parts : —
(i) the caudal region (called the chump end; Fr. quasi), which
comprises the bones of the pelvis and the haunch, up to the
level of the latter, and is one of the best pieces of veal for
braising; and (2) the region extending from the haunch to the
floating ribs, comprising the fillet and the upper fillet. This
last portion also constitutes a choice joint, to which the kidneys
are generally left attached, after all their superfluous fat has
been removed.

Neck or Best End of Veal consists of the first eight or nine
ribs, cut two inches above the kernel of meat. The ends of the
rib-bones are cleared of meat to a height of about two-thirds
inch, and the naked bone is then called the " handle " of the
cutlet, which ultimately holds the ornamental frill of paper.

The vertebrae are then suppressed, so that the bones of the
ribs alone remain ; the yellow ligament is cut away ; and the
bared parts are covered with slices of bacon, tied on by means
of string.

Cushion of Veal consists of an enormous muscle, which
represents almost half of the haunch and all the inside part of
it, from the pelvis to its junction with the tibia. A certain
quantity of white fat will always be found to lie over the cushion,
and it should be carefully reserved.

If the cushion is to be larded, a procedure which I do not
advise, it should be done on the bared part adjoining the fat-
covered region.

The various pieces of veal enumerated above may be roasted,
but, as in the case of the saddle, I prefer braising, owing to
the greater succulence of the dish resulting from this process,
and its accompanying gravy, which has an incomparable
flavour. (See Braising of White Meats, No. 248.)

1 198— ADJUNCTS TO CUSHION OF VEAL

Cushion of veal, like the other large pieces of veal, admits
of an almost unlimited number of vegetable garnishes, simple
or compound, as also garnishes of various pastes.

From among these garnishes the following may be quoted,
viz. : — Bouqueti^re, Bourgeoise, Chartreuse, Choisy, Chicor^e,
Cardoons, Clamart, Braised Celery, Japanese Artichokes,
Chow-chow, Endives, Spinach, Braised Lettuce, k la Vichy,
k la Nemours, &c. ; Jardiniere, Mac^doine, Renaissance, &c.

400 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

Among the paste garnishes : — Noodles, Macaroni, Spa-
ghetti, variously prepared ; various Gnocchi, &c.

And, in addition to all these, the garnishes already given
under Beef Releves, which need not be repeated here.

I shall, therefore, give only three recipes which are proper
to cushion of veal ; though even these should be regarded as
mere curiosities, seeing that, far from recommending them, I
consider them rather as gastronomical mistakes. But some
provision must be made for outlandish tastes, and, for this
reason alone, I include the following recipes.

II99— NOIX DE VEAU EN SURPRISE

Braise the cushion of veal, keeping it somewhat firm. This
done, set it on a dish, and let it almost cool.

Then cut a slice from it laterally, at a point one-third inch
of its height from the top ; and, within one-half inch of its
edges, make a circular incision, pressing the point of a sharp
knife into the meat, and withdraw the centre of the cushion.
Take care to leave the same thickness of meat on the sides as
on the bottom, that is to say, about one-half inch. The cushion
of veal, thus emptied, should have the appearance of a round
or oval case.

If the meat withdraAvn from the centre of the cushion is to
serve for the garnish, or is to be used sliced to surround the
case, cut it from out the whole in the largest possible pieces, in
order that slices may easily be cut therefrom.

The inside of the emptied cushion of veal is then garnished
according to fancy; the top of the piece that was cut off at the
start is returned to its place, with the view of giving the piece
an untouched appearance, and the whole is put in the oven for
a few minutes that it may be hot for serving.

The braising-liquor, cleared of grease and strained, should
be sent to the table separately.

I200— NOIX DE VEAU EN SURPRISE A LA MACEDOINE

Braise the cushion of veal, and hollow it out as explained
above.

Meanwhile (i) prepare a Macedoine garnish, or mixed Jar-
diniere (cohered with butter or cream), the quantity of which
should be in proportion to the size of the case; (2) cut the
meat, withdrawn from the centre of the cushion, into thin
rectangles.

Garnish the bottom of the case with a layer of Macedoine,
and set thereon a litter consisting of the rectangles of meat.
Cover with Macedoine; set thereon another litter of the pieces

RELEVES AND ENTREES 401

of meat, and renew the operation until the case is filled. Finish
up with a layer of MacSdoine.

Replace the slice cut from the cushion at the start ; put the
case in the oven for a few minutes ; serve, and send the braising-
liquor separately.

I20I- NOIX DE VEAU EN SURPRISE A LA PITHIVIERS

Braise the cushion of veal, and prepare the case as directed
above.

Stuff fifteen larks without boning them; that is to say, put
a lump of stuffing about the size of a hazel-nut into each. Fry
them in butter with one-half lb. of mushrooms and three oz.
of truffles, each of which vegetables should be raw and minced.
Cohere the whole with the necessary quantity of half-glaze sauce,
flavoured with game essence; put this garnish in the case;
return the sliced piece to its place; seal the cover to the case
by means of a thread of almost liquid forcemeat, and set in the
oven for seven or eight minutes.

When taking the case out of the oven, surround with the
withdrawn meat, which should have been cut into thin slices
and kept warm until required for the dressing.

The larks may be replaced by quails or thrushes, or other
small birds, but the name of the particular bird used must be
referred to in the title of the dish.

1202— NOIX DE VEAU A LA TOULOUSAINE

Braise the cushion and cut it to the shape of a case as
explained above. Pour therein a garnish consisting of quenelles
of chicken forcemeat; lamb sweetbreads, or collops of veal
sweetbreads, braised without colouration ; cocks' combs ; small
mushrooms, cooked and very white; and slices of truffle; the
whole to be cohered by means of an Allemande sauce, flavoured
with mushroom essence.

Return the piece sliced off at the start to its place, and sur-
round with slices of the meat withdrawn from the inside of
the cushion.

N.B, — All the garnishes suited to Vol-au-vent and timbales
may be served with cushion-of-veal case, which latter thus
stands in the stead of the Vol-au-vent and Timbale crusts.

Finally, I must ask the reader to bear in mind that methods
like those described above have no place in really good cookery,
the ruling principle of which should, always be simplicity.

1203— NOIX DE VEAU FROIDE A LA CAUCASIENNE

Cut a cold cushion of veal into slices two inches long by
one-half inch wide by one-sixth inch thick,

D D

402 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

On each slice spread a little butter seasoned with salt and
pepper, combined with finely-chopped chives and anchovy fillets
cut into dice.

Couple the slices together as for sandwiches ; round off their
angles and put them under slight pressure. Prepare a pur^e
of tomatoes with jelly; mould it in a dome- or Bombe-mould,
and let it set on ice.

When this moulding of tomatoes is quite firm, turn it out
in the middle of a round, cold dish ; arrange the meat slices all
round, and border the dish with cubes of very clear veal jelly.

1204— NOIX DE VEAU FROIDE A LA SUEDOISE

(i) From the widest part of a cold cushion of veal, cut a
lateral slice one and one-third inch thick, and trim it nicely
round.

(2) Let a coating of aspic jelly set on the bottom of a round
dish, and upon this jelly, when it is quite firm, lay the slice
of veal.

(3) Cut what remains of the piece of veal into slices two
inches long, by one and one-half inch broad, by one-eighth inch
thick. Prepare the same number of rectangles of salted tongue,
of the same size, though slightly thinner than those of veal.

(4) Cohere a nice vegetable salad with cleared mayonnaise;
mould it in an oiled, Bombe-shaped or narrow pyramid mould,
and put it on ice to set.

Coat the rectangles of veal with horse-radish butter; place
a rectangle of tongue on each, and finish off these sandwiches
by rounding their corners.

For Dishing. — By means of a piping-bag fitted with a
grooved pipe, garnish the edges of the slice of veal with a
thread of previously softened butter.

Turn out the vegetable salad in the centre of the piece of
meat ; set on it the heart of a small lettuce (nicely opened), and
arrange the veal and tongue sandwiches all round.

Serve a cold sauce, derived from the mayonnaise, separately.

120S— LONQES, CARRES ET NOIX DE VEAU FROIDS

What was said in respect of cold saddle of veal likewise
applies to the different pieces mentioned in the above title.
They may be coated with aspic jelly and dished with Mace-
doines of vegetables, cohered with jelly; small salads, cohered
with cleared mayonnaise; garnished artichoke-bottoms, &c.

The dishes should always be bordered with cubes of very
clear jelly.

RELEVES AND ENTREES 403

1206— FRICANDEAU (Relev6)

Fricandeau is a lateral cut from the cushion of veal ; that is
to say, a piece cut with the grain of the meat. It should not be
thicker than one and one-half inches.

After beating it with a beater or the flat of a chopper, to
break the fibres of the meat, finely lard the piece of meat on the
cut side with strips of bacon, somewhat smaller than those used
for fillet of beef. Only when the piece is larded may it be
called " Fricandeau "; for, when not treated thus, it is nothing
else than an ordinary piece of veal. Fricandeau is invariably
braised ; but it differs from other braisings of white meat in this,
namely, that it must be so cooked as to be easily cut with a
spoon. Connoisseurs maintain that Fricandeau should never
be touched with a knife.

It is glazed at the last moment, like other braisings, and,
in view of its prolonged cooking, should be dished with great
care.

All the garnishes enumerated for cushion of veal may be
adapted to Fricandeau.

1207— FRICANDEAU FROID

Cold fricandeau constitutes an excellent luncheon dish. It
is dished and surrounded with its braising-liquor, cleared of
grease and strained. This braising-liquor sets to a jelly, and
is the finest adjunct to fricandeau that could be found.

The piece may be glazed with half-melted jelly, smeared
over it by means of a brush.

1208— POITRINE DE VEAU FARCIE

This is really a family dish, admirably suited for a luncheon
relev^. It is accompanied chiefly by vegetable purees, but all
the vegetable and other garnishes given under Cushion of Veal
may be served with it.

Breast of veal is prepared thus : — After having boned the
piece, open it where it is thickest, without touching the ends.
A kind of pocket is thus obtained, into which put the previously-
prepared stuffing, taking care to spread it very evenly.

Now, with coarse cotton, sew up the opening, and remember
to withdraw the cotton when the piece is cooked.

Stuffing for Breast of Veal. — For a piece weighing four
lbs., add to one lb. of very fine sausage-meat (No. 196), two
oz. of dry duxelles, two oz. of butter, a pinch of chopped
parsley, tarragon and chives, a small beaten egg, and a little
salt and pepper.

Cooking. — Breast of veal is usually braised ; the moistening

D D 2

404 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

should be short and the cooking process gentle. For a piece
weighing four lbs. when stuffed, allow three hours in a moderate
and regular oven. Glaze breast of veal at the last moment, as
in the case of other braised meats.

1209— T^TE DE VEAU (Relev6 and Entree)

Nowadays, calf's head is rarely served whole, as was the
custom formerly. Still more rarely, however, is it served at
a dinner of any importance ; and it has now, by almost general
consent, been relegated to luncheon menus where, indeed, it
has found its proper place.

After having boned the head, soak it or hold it under a
running tap, for a sufficiently long time to allow of its being
entirely cleared of blood. Then, blanch it for a good half-hour;
cool it in cold water ; drain it, and rub it with a piece of lemon
to avoid its blackening.

If it is to be cooked whole, as sometimes happens, wrap it in
a napkin, that it maybe easily handled ; if not, cut it into pieces.
In either case, plunge it immediately into a boiling blanc (No.
167).

With a view of keeping the calf's head from contact with
the air, which would blacken it, cover it with a napkin, or
cover the liquid with chopped suet. A layer of chopped suet
is the best possible means of keeping the air from the calf's
head.

Whatever be the method of serving calf's head, it is the
rule to send slices of tongue and collops of brain to the table
with it.

The tongue may be cooked simultaneously with the head, and
the brain is poached as described under No. 1289.

1210— TfeTE DE VEAU A L'ANGLAISE

Calf's head d I'anglaise is cooked in a blanc, as explained
above; but in halves and unboned.

Dish it on a napkin with sprays of very green parsley and
a piece of boiled bacon.

Send a sauceboat of parsley sauce (No. 119a) to the table at
the same time.

1211— TETE DE VEAU A LA FINANClfeRE

Cook the calf's head in a blanc as already directed. Sup-
press portions of the meat, where the latter is thick, in such wise
as to leave only a very little on the skin.

Cut the pieces into squares of one, two or three in. side;

RELEVES AND ENTREES 405

put them in a timbale, and cover them with a financi^re garnish ;
adding a few small slices of tongue and brain.

1212— TETE DE VEAU A LA POULETTE

Cook the calf's head in a blanc.

Cut the pieces of the head into small slices, somewhat aslant,
and toss them into a previously-prepared poulette sauce (No.

lOl).

Dish in a timbale, and spriniile with a pinch of chopped
parsley.

12 13— TETE DE VEAU EN TORTUE

With a round cutter one, two, or three in. in diameter, cut
up the pieces of calf's head, the meat of which must be entirely
suppressed. For this preparation, only the skin of the head
should be used.

Put the pieces of head in a timbale or on a dish, and cover
them with a Tortue garnish.

Tortue garnish consists of : Small quenelles of veal force-
meat with butter ; cock's combs and kidneys ; small mushrooms ;
stoned, stuffed and poached olives; slices of truffle; gherkins
cut to the shape of olives (these should only be put into the
sauce at the last moment); and Tortue sauce.

This garnish comprises, besides, among unsauced ingre-
dients : Slices of tongue and calf's brain ; small, trussed cray-
fish, cooked in court-bouillon ; fried eggs, the half of whose raw
whites should be suppressed; and small croutons of bread-
crumb, fried in butter at the last moment.

1214— T6TE DE VEAU A LA VINAIGRETTE OU A L'HUILE

Set the boiling pieces of calf's head on a napkin, lying on
a dish. Surround them with slices of tongue, collops of brain,
and sprigs of very green, curled-leaf parsley.

Serve separately, on a hors-d'oeuvre dish, without mixing
them, capers, chopped onion and parsley.

Send to the table at the same time a sauceboat of vinai-
grette or sauce k I'huile, prepared by mixing one part of
vinegar, two parts of oil, and one part of the calf's-head
cooking-liquor, together with the necessary salt and pepper.

12 15— ESCALOPES DE VEAU

Collops of veal may be cut from either the fillet or the
saddle; but they are more often cut from the cushion. Their
weight varies from three to four oz., and they should always
be cleared of all connective tissue. They may be fashioned
to the shape of ovals, or curve-based triangles, and they should

4o6 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

be more or less flattened, according to their use. Thus, when
they are to be plainly tossed, to be afterwards served with a
sauced garnish or with a sauce, they are simply beaten in order
to break the fibres of the meat, without flattening the latter
too much; but if, on the contrary, they are to be treated d
I'anglaise, they should be beaten very thin with the moistened
beater.

In either case, they should be cooked somewhat quickly in
clarified butter; for, if their cooking lag at all, their meat
hardens.

All the garnishes of veal cutlets, and a large number of
those of the cushion, may be served with the collops. These
garnishes may be set on the same dish with the collops when
the latter are plainly tossed ; but, in the case of collops treated
a I'anglaise, the garnish or sauce which accompanies them
should be served separately, lest its moisture soften the crisp
coating of the collops.

1216— QRENADINS

Grenadins are veal collops larded with rows of very thin
bacon strips, and cut somewhat thicker than ordinary collops.
They are really small fricandeaux, the braising of which is a
comparatively lengthy operation ; for their cooking must be the
same as that of the fricandeaux, and needs quite as much atten-
tion. In order that the grenadins be not too dry, they should
be frequently basted with their braising-liquor.

When they are cooked, glaze them rapidly, and dish them
with one of the garnishes given for the cushion of veal.

12 17— QRENADINS FROIDS EN BELLEVUE

This dish may be prepared in several more or less compli-
cated ways ; here is a simple way : —

Take as many shell-shaped hors-d'oeuvre dishes as there are
grenadins. Let a thin coat of jelly set on the bottom of each,
and set thereon a slight decoration composed of bits of carrot,
turnip, peas, French beans in lozenge-form, &c. Put a gren-
adin, larded side undermost (i.e., upside down) into each hors-
d'oeuvre dish ; add enough melted aspic jelly to reach half-way
up the thickness of the grenadin.

When this jelly has set, lay on it, all round the grenadin,
a border consisting of carrots, turnips, French beans and peas.
Sprinkle these vegetables with a few drops of jelly, so as to
fix them, and keep them from floating, and then fill up the
hors-d'ceuvre dishes with jelly.

When about to serve, dip the hors-d'oeuvre dishes into hot

RELEVES AND ENTREES 407

water; turn out the grenadins on a very cold dish, and arrange
them on it to form a crown.

Surround with a border of very clear, chopped aspic jelly.

1218— RIS DE VEAU (Sweetbreads)

Veal sweetbreads may be looked upon as one of the greatest
delicacies in butchers' meats, and may be served at any dinner,
however sumptuous. Select them very white, entirely free of
blood stains, and leave them to soak in fresh water, which
should be frequently changed, for as long as possible ; or, better
still, place them under a running tap.

To blanch them (an operation the purpose of which is to
harden the surface) put them in a saucepan with enough cold
water to cover them completely, and bring to the boil gently.
Let them boil for ten minutes ; withdraw them and plunge them
into a basin of fresh water.

When the sweetbreads are cold, trim them ; that is to say,
cut away all cartilaginous and connective tissue; lay them
between two pieces of linen, and put them under a light weight
for two hours.

Now lard them with fine bacon, tongue or truffle, subject to
the way in which they are to be served. They may also be
studded with either tongue or truffles, or they may be left
unlarded and unstudded, and plainly braised, just as they are.

Certain it is, that neither studding nor larding enhances in
any way whatsoever their quality or sightliness.

Veal sweetbread consists of two parts, as unequal in quality
as in shape. They are: the "kernel" or heart sweetbread,
which is the round and most delicate part, and the " throat,"
or throat sweetbread, which is the elongated part, and not of
such fine quality as the former.

In a well-ordered dinner, heart sweetbreads only should be
used, as far as possible.

There are three ways of cooking sweetbreads, viz. : — Braising
(No. 248), poaching (No. 249), and grilling (No. 259). In the
following recipes, therefore, the reader will kindly refer to the
directions given under one of the numbers just mentioned,
according as to whether the dish is to be a braising, a poaching,
or a grill.

1219— ATTEREAUX DE RIS DE VEAU A LA VILLEROY

Cut some veal sweetbreads (preferably the throat kind) into
roundels one and one-third in. in diameter and one-third in.
thick. Prepare an equal number of mushrooms and truffle
roundels, somewhat thinner than those of sweetbread.

4o8 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

Impale these roundels on little wooden skewers, the size of
matches, and about four in. long; alternating the different
products in so doing. Dip these skewers into a Villeroy sauce,
and set them on a dish. When the sauce is quite cold, remove
the attereaux; clear them of any superfluous sauce that may
have fallen on to the dish; dip them in an anglaise (No. 174);
roll them in very fine and fresh bread-crumbs, and turn them
with the fingers, so as to shape them like small cylinders.
Plunge them into plenty of hot fat eight minutes before serving;
drain them on a piece of linen ; carefully withdraw the wooden
skewers and put little silver ones in their place. Dish the
attereaux on a folded napkin, with fried parsley in the centre;
or set them upright in a circle, on a rice or semolina cushion
lying on a dish, and put some very green, fried parsley in the
middle.

Serve a P^rigueux sauce separately.

1320— CHARTREUSE DE RIS DE VEAU

Prepare (i) one and one-quarter lbs. of fine forcemeat with
cream (No. 194); (2) two poached, veal throat sweetbreads, cut
into slices; (3) one-half lb. of cooked mushrooms, cut into
large slices, and three oz. of sliced truffles; (4) a garnish of
carrots and turnips, raised by means of a tube- or spoon-cutter,
or cut into grooved roundels two-thirds inch in diameter; and
peas and French beans. Each of these vegetables should be
cooked in a way befitting its nature, and kept somewhat firm.

Liberally butter a quart Charlotte-mould. Line its bottom
and sides with the vegetables, arranged in alternate and vari-
coloured rows, and spread thereon a layer of forcemeat, one-
half inch thick.

This done, set upon the layer of forcemeat just spread,
another of slices of sweetbread, mushrooms, and truffles ; cover
the whole with a coat of forcemeat; start the operation again
with a litter of sweetbread, mushroom, and truffle slices, and
proceed as before until the mould is filled. Finish with a layer
of forcemeat. Cover with a round piece of buttered paper, and
set to poach in a bain-marie and in the oven, for from forty-five
to fifty minutes.

When taking the chartreuse out of the bain-marie, let it
stand for seven or eight minutes, that the ingredients inside
may settle a little, and then turn it out in the middle of a
round dish; place a large, cooked, grooved, and very white
mushroom on the top of it, and encircle its base with a crown
of small braised and well-trimmed half-lettuces.

RELEVES AND ENTREES 409

Send to the table, separately, a sauceboat of Velout^
flavoured with mushroom essence.

I22I— RIS DE VEAU BONNE MAMAN

Cut the vegetables intended for the braising stock into a
short and coarse julienne, and add thereto an equal quantity
of similarly-cut celery.

Braise the veal sweetbreads with this julienne, after the
manner described under No. 248, and moisten with excellent
veal stock. Take particular care of the vegetables, that they
do not burn.

When the sweetbreads are ready, glaze them and dish them
in a shallow, round cocotte with the julienne of vegetables and
the braising-liquor all round.

Cover the cocotte, and serve it on a folded napkin.

1222— CR^PINETTE DE RIS DE VEAU

For this dish take either some white throat sweetbreads,
or some remains of the latter, from which slices have already
been cut.

Chop up the throat sweetbreads or the remains, together
with their weight of raw calf's udder.

Season with one-half oz. of salt and a pinch of pepper; add
five oz. of chopped truffles and two whole eggs per lb. of the
mince-meat. Mix the whole well ; divide it up into portions
weighing three oz., and wrap each portion in a piece of very
soft pig's caul.

Sprinkle with melted butter and bread-crumbs, and grill
gently.

Dish in the form of a crown, and serve a P^rigueux sauce
at the same time.

1223— RIS DE VEAU A LA CEVENOLE

Braise the veal sweetbreads and glaze them at the last
moment.

Dish them with a heap of small glazed onions at either end,
and serve, at the same time, a pur^e of chestnuts and a sauce-
boat of thickened gravy.

1224— RIS DE VEAU DEMIDOFF

Lard the sweetbreads with bacon and truffles; braise them
brown, and only half-cook them. Then place them in a shallow
cocotte, and surround them with the following garnish : — Two
oz. of carrots and the same weight of turnips, both cut into
grooved crescents; an equal quantity of small onions, cut into
large roundels, and some celery cut ^ay^anne-fashion. All
these vegetables should be first stewed in butter.

41 o GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

Add the braising-liquor of the sweetbreads, and one oz. of
minced truffles, and complete the cooking of the former. Clear
of all grease and serve in the cocotte.

1225— ESCALOPES DE RIS DE VEAU B^RENQERE

Braise the veal sweetbreads and cut each piece into four
medium-sized slices. Trim each slice with an even, oval fancy-
cutter ; and, by means of a piping-bag fitted with an even pipe,
one-sixth inch in diameter, garnish the edge of each slice with
a thick border of mousseline forcemeat, combined with chopped
salted tongue. Set the slices on a tray, and put them in a
moderate oven to poach the forcemeat.

Now, by means of another piping-bag fitted with a grooved
pipe, garnish the centre of the slices with a nice rosette of fine
and very white Soubise pur^e; and, in the middle of each
rosette, place a little ball of very black truffle.

Set each slice on a thin, oval crouton of the same size as the
former and fried in butter. Serve at the same time, in a sauce-
boat, the braising-liquor of the sweetbreads, cleared of all
grease, and a timbale of fresh peas.

1226— ESCALOPES DE RIS DE VEAU A LA FAVORITE

Blanch the veal sweetbreads ; cool them under pressure, and
cut them into slices. Season the latter and toss them in
clarified butter.

At the same time, toss an equal number of slices of foie gras
of the same size as those of the sweetbread, after having
seasoned and dredged them.

Dish in a circle, alternating the foie gras and the sweet-
bread slices ; put a crown of sliced truffle on the circle already
arranged ; and, in the centre, pour a garnish of asparagus-heads
cohered with butter.

Send, separately, a Madeira sauce flavoured with truffle
essence.

1327— ESCALOPES DE RIS DE VEAU GRAND DUC

Blanch and cool the sweetbreads, and cut them into slices.
Season the latter and cook them in butter without colouration.
Dish them in the form of a crown, placing a large slice of
truffle between each; coat with Mornay sauce, and glaze
quickly.

When taking the dish out of the oven, arrange a heap of
asparagus-heads cohered with butter, in the middle of the dish,
and serve instantly.

RELEVES AND ENTREES 411

1228— ESCALOPES DE RIS DE VEAU JUDIC

Blanch and cool the sweetbreads, and cut them into slices.

Prepare and poach a roll of chicken forcemeat, large enough
to allow of slices being cut therefrom of the same size as those
of the sweetbreads.

Season, dredge, and toss the slices of sweetbread in butter,
and dish them in the form of a crown, each on a roundel of the
poached chicken forcemeat.

On each slice place a very small, braised, and well-trimmed
lettuce, a slice of truffle, and a cock's kidney.

Send a sauceboat of thickened gravy separately.

1229— ESCALOPES DE RIS DE VEAU A LA MAR^CHALE

Braise the veal sweetbreads, keeping them somewhat firm,
and cut them into slices.

Treat the latter a I'anglaise ; brown them in clarified butter,
and dish them in a circle, placing a fine slice of truffle between
each.

In the middle of the dish arrange a fine heap of asparagus-
heads cohered with butter.

1230— RIS DE VEAU GRILLES

After having blanched, cooked, and trimmed the sweet-
breads, set them to get quite cold under pressure. Then cut
them in two, laterally, at their thickest point; dip each piece
into melted butter, and grill gently, basting frequently the while
with melted butter.

The sweetbreads may also be grilled whole, but the process
is perforce a more lengthy one.

123 1— RIS DE VEAU GRILLES CARMAQO

Cook a brioche, without sugar, in a fluted mould, the aper-
ture of which is a little larger than the veal sweetbreads. Care-
fully remove the top of the brioche, following the direction of
the fluting, and withdraw all the crumb from the inside.

Fill this kind of croustade, two-thirds full, with a garnish
consisting of peas, prepared " ^ la fran9aise," and carrots "k
la Vichy," in equal quantities.

Set the grilled veal sweetbreads on this garnish, and cover
it with slices of grilled bacon.

Dish on a napkin and serve at once.

1232— RIS DE VEAU GRILLE QISMONDA

Prepare a shallow croustade, without colouration, in an oval
flawn ring of the same length as the veal sweetbread. Grill the
veal sw^eetbread after the manner already described.

412 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

Garnish the bottom of the croustade with equal quantities of
articholce-bottoms and mushrooms, minced raw, tossed in butter,
and cohered with cream sauce.

Set the grilled sweetbread on the garnish, and place the
croustade on a folded napkin.

Serve, separately, a slightly buttered meat-glaze.

1233— RIS DE VEAU GRILLE JOCELYNE

Cut some potatoes into roundels one and one-half inch thick
and of the same size as the veal sweetbread. Stamp the roundels,
close up to their edges, with a round, even cutter, and cook them
in butter. Grill the sweetbread at the same time.

When the potatoes are cooked, withdraw all their inside in
such wise as to give them the appearance of cases, and fill them
with Soubise prepared with curry.

Dish them and set the grilled sweetbread upon them. On
the sweetbread lay a small half-tomato and a green half-
capsicum, both grilled.

1234— RIS DE VEAU GRILLES SAINT=GERMAIN

Blanch, prepare, and grill the veal sweetbreads as already
explained. Set them on a long dish, and surround them with
alternate heaps of small potatoes cooked in butter and of a
nice golden colour, and carrots cut to the shape of elongated
olives, cooked in consomm^ and glazed.

Serve a B^arnaise sauce and a pur^e of fresh peas, separately.

1235— RIS DE VEAU DES GOURMETS

Braise the veal sweetbreads, and, as soon as they are ready,
set them in a round, flat cocotte, just large enough to hold them.
Cover them with raw truffles, cut into thick slices; strain the
braising-liquor over the whole ; cover the cocotte, and seal the
cover to the edges of the utensil by means of a thread of soft
paste, made simply from a mixture of flour and water.

The object of this last precaution is to prevent any escape
whatsoever of steam, and to hold the aroma of the truffles
within.

Put the cocotte into a very hot oven for ten minutes ; set it
on a dish, and serve it as it stands. The cover should be re-
moved only when the dish reaches the table.

1236— RIS DE VEAU AUX QUEUES D'^CREVISSES

Stud the sweetbreads with truffle and braise them without
colouration. Dish them, and, on either side, set a heap of cray-
fishes' tails (in the proportion of four to each person), cohered
with cream.

RELEVES AND ENTREES 413

At either end place some crayfishes' carapaces (in the pro-
portion of two to each sweetbread), garnished with chicken
forcemeat combined with crayfish butter, and poached.

Serve, separately, an Allemande sauce prepared with cray-
fish butter.

1237-RIS DE VEAU A LA R^QENCE

Stud the sweetbreads with truffles, and braise them without
colouration.

Dish them ; pour their reduced braising-liquor round the
dish, and surround them with a R^gence garnish, arranged in
alternate heaps representing the constituents of the former,
which are: quenelles of fine truffled chicken forcemeat; small
grooved mushrooms; curled cocks' combs, and truffles cut to
the shape of olives. Serve separately an Allemande sauce,
flavoured with truffle essence.

1238— RIS DE VEAU SOUS LA CENDRE

Stud the veal sweetbreads with truffles and tongue, and
three-parts braise them.

Cut some slices of salted tongue of the same size as the
sweetbreads, garnish them with slices of truffle, and set a sweet-
bread on each.

Cover each sweetbread with a layer of short paste (No.
2358) ; set them on a tray ; gild ; flute ; make a small incision
on the top of the paste to allow the escape of steam, and bake
in a hot oven for thirty minutes.

When withdrawing them from the oven, pour in some half-
glaze sauce with Madeira, and dish them on a napkin.

1239— RIS DE VEAU A LA TOULOUSAINE

Stud the sweetbreads with truffles and braise them without
colouration.

Dish them with the Toulousaine garnish, arranged in heaps
all round, and surround the latter with a thread of meat-glaze.

Toulousaine garnish comprises small chicken-forcemeat
quenelles ; cocks' combs and kidneys ; very white button-mush-
room heads, and slices of truffle.

Serve, separately, an Allemande flavoured with mushroom
essence.

1240— CROUSTADE DE RIS DE VEAU A LA FINANCIERE

Prepare (i) the required number of small, fluted croustades,
baked without colouration in rather large tartlet moulds. (2)
The same number of slices of braised veal sweetbread as there
are croustades, and of the same size. (3) A financi^re garnish,
consisting of very small chicken-forcemeat quenelles; grooved

414 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

button-mushrooms, and sliced cocks' combs and kidneys. The
whole covered by half-glaze with Madeira, in the proportion of
one tablespoonful per croustade. (5) As many fine slices of
truffle as there are croustades.

Put a tablespoonful of the garnish into each croustade; set
thereon a slice of sweetbread; put a slice of truffle upon that,
and dish the croustades on a folded napkin.

1241— PATE CHAUD DE RIS DE VEAU

Butter an ordinary round hot raised pie, or a Charlotte-
niould. Take about one and one-half lbs. of short paste and
roll it into gaieties, one-third inch thick; fold the paste over
after having dredged it slightly; draw the two ends gently
towards the centre, to form a kind of skullcap, which, when
placed in the mould, immediately lines the latter. Avoid making
folds in the paste while preparing the skullcap, for they would
spoil the look of the patty when turned out.

Press the paste on the bottom and sides of the mould, that
the latter may impart its shape to its lining, and cut the pro-
jecting paste to within half inch of the brim. Now coat the
bottom and sides of the mould with a layer of chicken force-
meat, of an even thickness of two-thirds of an inch.

Pour into the centre of the mould a garnish composed of
slices of poached veal sweetbread; sliced and cooked mush-
rooms and sliced truffles; the whole covered with reduced and
somewhat stiff Allemande sauce, flavoured with mushroom
essence.

Cover the garnish with a coating of forcemeat, and close
the patty with a layer of paste, the edges of which should be
moistened and sealed down all round the brim of the mould.
Pinch the rim of paste inside and outside, and finish off with
leaves of paste stamped out with a fancy-cutter, ribbed by means
of the back of a knife, and laid upon the paste cover. Gild with
beaten egg ; make a central slit for the escape of steam, and set
to bake in a hot oven, for from forty-five to fifty minutes.

When taking the patty out of the oven, turn it out and dish
it on a napkin.

1342— TIMBALE DE RIS DE VEAU

Butter a timbale mould and decorate its sides with thin pieces
of noodle paste, in the shape of lozenges, crescents, indented
rings, discs and imitation-leaves. Excellent ornamental
arrangements may be effected thus ; but the reader should bear
in mind that the simplest are the best.

Prepare a skullcap of paste as explained under No. 1241 ;

RELEVES AND ENTREES 415

slightly moisten the ornamental work in the mould, that it may-
cling to the paste of the timbale, and line the latter with paste
which should be well pressed in all directions, that it may take
the shape of the mould.

Then pierce the paste on the bottom, to prevent its blistering
during the baking process; line the bottom and sides with
buttered paper, and fill the timbale, three-quarters full, with
split peas or lentils.

Cover the latter with a round piece of paper, and close the
timbale by means of a round layer of paste, which should be
sealed down round the edges. Make and trim the crest of the
timbale ; pinch it inside and out, and finish the cover, by means
of applied imitation-leaves of paste, superposed to form a kind
of dome.

Set in a moderate oven, and when the timbale is baked,
remove its cover with the view of withdrawing the lentils or
peas and the paper, the sole object of which was to provide
a support for the cover. Besmear the inside of the timbale with
a brush dipped in the beaten white of an egg; keep it for a
minute or two in front of the oven, with the view of drying
it inside; turn it out, and spread upon its bottom and sides a
very thin coat of chicken or ordinary forcemeat, the purpose
of which is to shield the crust from the softening effects of the
juices of the garnish.

Put the timbale in the front of the oven for a moment or
two, that this coating of forcemeat may poach.

Garnish. — Veal sweetbreads, braised without colouration
and cut into collops; small mushrooms; cocks' combs and
kidneys; small quenelles of chicken, mousseline forcemeat, or
roundels of chicken forcemeat rolls one-third inch thick, trimmed
with the fancy-cutter ; and slices of truffles, half of which should
be kept for the purposes of decoration.

Cover this garnish with Allemande sauce, prepared with
mushroom essence. Pour it into the timbale, just before
serving ; upon it set the reserved slices of truffle, in the form of
a crown; replace the cover; dish upon a folded napkin, and
serve.

N.B. (i) As already stated the garnish of the timbale may be
cohered with a half-glaze sauce, flavoured with Madeira or
truffle essence.

(2) In this garnish, whether it be cohered by means of a
white or brown sauce, the slices of veal sweetbreads are always
the principal ingredient ; but, subject to the circumstances, the
other details may be altered or modified.

41 6 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

1243— VOL AU VENT DE RIS DE VEAU

Vol au vent, which formerly held the place of honour on
bourgeois menus, has now fallen somewhat into the back-
ground ; nevertheless, I wished it to appear among the recipes
in this work.

The preparation of the paste : Make the vol au vent crust
as explained under No. 2390.

Garnish. — Prepare it exactly as explained under " Timbale
de ris de Veau." This garnish may also be cohered with a
brown sauce, and its minor ingredients may be modified; but
the slices of veal sweetbread must always stand as the domin-
ating element.

Whatever be the selected kind of garnish, vol au vent should
always be accompanied by medium-sized, trussed crayfish,
cooked in court-bouillon.

Dishing. — Set the vol au vent crust upon a dish covered with
a napkin; pour the garnish into it; decorate with slices of
truffle; arrange the crayfish round the edge, and lay the cover
upon the crayfish.

1244— RIS DE VEAU A LA RICHELIEU

Braise the veal sweetbreads exactly as described under " Ris
de Veau Bonne Maman," taking care to keep the braising-
liquor sufficiently plentiful to well cover the sweetbreads in the
cocotte.

When the sweetbreads are in the cocotte, together with the
julienne of vegetables and a julienne of truffles, strain the
braising-liquor over the whole; leave to cool well, and, when
the liquid has turned to a jelly, remove the grease that has
risen to the surface.

Dish the cocotte on a napkin.

1245— RIS DE VEAU A LA SUEDOISE

Poach the veal sweetbreads without colouration, and, when
they are quite cold, cut them into thin and regular collops.
Spread some horse-radish butter over the latter, and cover with
a slice of tongue of the same size as the underlying collop.

Bake a crust without colouration in a flawn ring, of a size
in proportion to the number of slices, and garnish it with a
vegetable salad cohered with mayonnaise. This crust must
necessarily be made in advance.

Upon the salad now set the collops, either in the form of a
crown or in that of a small turban ; in the middle place a fineT
lettuce heart, the leaves of which should be slightly opened out.

RELEVES AND ENTREES 417

1246— PALETS DE RIS DE VEAU A L'ECARLATE

Poach the sweetbreads; when they are cold, cut them into
collops half-an-inch thick, and trim them with a round, even
cutter. Stamp out some roundels of salted tongue with the
same cutter, but let them be only one-eighth inch thick, and
twice as many as the collops of veal sweetbread.

Coat the latter, on either side, with butter prepared with
mustard ; and cover with a roundel of tongue.

Set the prepared collops on a tray; let the butter harden,
coat with jelly, and deck the middle of each quoit with a fine
slice of truffle.

Arrange the quoits in a circle on a round dish ; put some
chopped jelly in the centre, and border the dish with very
regularly-cut jelly dice.

Serve a horse-radish sauce and an Italian salad separately.

Calf's Liver.

Calf's liver is served chiefly as a breakfast or luncheon
entree.

Nevertheless, in ordinary menus, it is sometimes served as
a relev^, braised and whole.

1247— FOIE DE VEAU BRAISE A LA BOURQEOISE

Lard the piece with large, seasoned strips of bacon, as for
" Boeuf k la Mode." Brown it slightly in the oven, and then
put it into a saucepan garnished for braising. (No. 247.)

Moisten with one pint of white wine, and reduce it com-
pletely. This done, moisten again with brown stock, adding
one pint of Espagnole sauce per quart of the moistening.

It is sufficient if the moistening and the sauce reach a little
above the middle of the piece of liver.

When the cooking is two-thirds completed, transfer the liver
to another saucepan ; surround it with carrots, shaped like elon-
gated olives and half-cooked in consomme; and some small
onions, half-cooked in butter.

The amount of this garnish of carrots and onions should
naturally be in proportion to the size of the piece of liver.

Strain the sauce over the whole, and complete the cooking
gently in the oven. Dish the liver with the carrots and onions
all round; reduce the sauce if necessary, and pour it over the
garnish.

N.B. The latter need not be arranged symmetrically.

On the contrary simplicity should be made a feature of these

bourgeois dishes.

E E

41 8 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

1248— FOIE DE VEAU A L'ANQLAISE

Cut the calf's liver into fairly thin slices, from two-and-a-half
oz. to three oz. in weight. Season them with salt and pepper;
dredge them, and toss them in butter. Grill an equal number
of rashers of bacon.

Dish the slices of liver and the rashers of bacon alternately,
and sprinkle them with the butter in which the liver was cooked,
or with a brown butter.

1249— BROCHETTES DE FOIE DE VEAU

Select a pale piece of calf's liver and cut it into square pieces
two-thirds of an inch thick. Season with salt and pepper, and
toss the pieces in butter, just to stiffen them.

Put them into a basin with an equal quantity of blanched
salted breast of pork, cut into squares, and of slices of cooked
mushrooms. Add a few tablespoonfuls of stiff Duxelles sauce,
and toss the whole together, that each particle of the various in-
gredients may become coated with Duxelles.

This done, impale the squares of liver and pork and the
slices of mushrooms upon a ringed skewer, alternating them
in so doing; sprinkle copiously with fine raspings and melted
butter, and set to grill gently.

These brochettes are served, either on a maitre-d'hotel butter,
or on a Duxelles, Fines Herbes, an Italian or other sauce.

1250— FOIE DE VEAU A L'ESPAQNOLE

Cut the calf's liver into slices weighing three and a half oz. ;
season these with salt and pepper ; dredge them ; sprinkle them
with oil, and grill them gently.

Meanwhile, prepare: — (i) As many grilled half-tomatoes as
there are pieces of liver ; (2) onions cut into thin roundels, sea-
soned, dredged, and fried in oil ; (3) a proportionate quantity
of fried parsley.

Arrange the grilled slices of liver along the centre of an
oval dish ; place a half-tomato upon each ; and, on one side,
set the fried onions, on the other, the fried parsley.

125 1 -FOIE DE VEAU SAUT6 AUX FINES HERBES

Cut the calf's liver into slices, as above ; season these with
salt and pepper; dredge them, and toss them in butter.

Arrange the slices in a circle on a round dish ; and either
pour the herb sauce over the slices, or serve it separately.

1252— PAIN DE FOIE DE VEAU

For a calf's liver loaf made in a quart mould : Cut one lb. of
calf's liver into dice, and finely pound these together with one-

RELEVES AND ENTREES 419

third oz. of salt, a pinch of pepper, and a little nutmeg. Add,
little by little, five oz. of very cold frangipane panada, and two
eggs.

Rub through a sieve; put the forcemeat in a bowl; work
it over ice, and finish it with two tablespoonfuls of chopped
onions, cooked in butter, without colouration ; the yolks of two
eggs, and quarter pint of thick cream, added by degrees.

Pour this forcemeat into a well-buttered quart Charlotte-
mould; knock the latter gently on a folded serviette, with the
view of settling its contents, and put it to poach in the oven
in a bain-marie, for about forty-live minutes.

When taking the loaf out of the oven, let it stand for five
minutes, that the forcemeat inside may thoroughly settle;
turn it out on a round dish, and cover it with a Duxelles,
Italienne, Bordelaise, brown caper, or other sauce.

1253— COTES DE VEAU

Veal cutlets may either be grilled or sauted, but the second
method of cooking them is, in most cases, preferable.

When they are sauted, the cutlets should be cooked in clari-
fied butter, over a somewhat fierce fire and in a utensil large
enough to hold them without crowding.

This done, dish them ; pour away the butter in which they
have been cooked; swill the saucepan, i.e., dissolve the concen-
trated gravy adhering to the sides and bottom of it with a liquid
in keeping with the garnish ; either mushroom cooking-liquor,
white or red wine, or Madeira, etc. ; and add this swilling-
liquor, reduced, to the accompanying sauce. The latter is
generally a buttered half-glaze, but the best adjunct to veal
cutlets is a pale meat glaze, moderately buttered.

All vegetable and paste garnishes, given under Cushion of
Veal, suit veal cutlets. I must therefore beg the reader to
refer to those recipes, as circumstances may dictate ; and restrict
myself to a few formulae which, in my opinion, are suited more
particularly to veal cutlets.

1254— COTE DE VEAU A LA BONNE FEMME

Put the veal cutlet into an earthenware saucepan, with one
and one-half oz. of butter, and brown it well on both sides. Add
six small onions cooked in butter, three oz. of potatoes cut
into roundels; and complete the cooking gently in the oven,
keeping the saucepan covered.

Serve the preparation in the saucepan as it stands.

E E 2

420 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

1255— COTE DE VEAU EN CASSEROLE

Heat one oz. of butter in an earthenware saucepan; insert
the veal cutlet, seasoned, and cook it gently, taking care to turn
it over from time to time.

At the last moment, add a tablespoonful of excellent veal
gravy, and serve in the saucepan.
1256— COTE DE VEAU EN COCOTTE A LA PAYSANNE

Toss the veal cutlet in butter, in the cocotte, with two small
slices of blanched salted breast of pork. Add four small onions,
and two small, long potatoes, cut ^ay^anne-fashion ; and com-
plete the cooking of the cutlets and the garnish very gently in
the oven.

Send the preparation to the table in the cocotte.

1357— COTE DE VEAU A LA DREUX

Stud the kernel of the veal cutlet with tongue, ham and
truffle, and cook it gently in butter. This done, trim it to the
quick on both sides, that the studding may be clean and neat ;
dish it with a frill on the bare bone, and, beside it, arrange a
small garnish of quenelles, mushrooms, cocks' combs and
kidneys, and turned and blanched olives.

Pour a little half-glaze sauce, flavoured with truffle essence,
over the garnish.
1258— c6TE DEiVEAU MILANAISE

With a moistened butcher's beater, flatten the meat in such-
wise as to reduce it to half its normal thickness. Dip the veal
cutlet into beaten egg ; roll it in bread-crumbs, mixed with half
as much grated Parmesan, and cook it in clarified butter, or
butter and oil in equal quantities.

Dish it with a frill on the bare bone, and the garnish beside
it.

Milanaise garnish consists of cooked macaroni, seasoned
with salt, pepper and nutmeg, and cohered with butter, grated
Gruy^re and Parmesan cheeses, and very red tomato pur^e ; and
combined with a julienne of very lean cooked ham, salted
tongue, mushrooms and truffles, heated in Madeira.
1259— COTE DE VEAU PAPILLOTE

Toss the veal cutlet in butter, and prepare, meanwhile : —

(i) Two tablespoonfuls of Duxelles sauce, combined with
a cooked and sliced mushroom.

(2) Two heart-shaped slices of ham, of about the same size
as the cutlet.

(3) A doubled sheet of strong paper, cut to the shape of
a heart and well-oiled.

RELEVES AND ENTRIES 421

Spread out the sheet of paper, and, in the middle thereof,
lay a sHce of ham ; spread a tablespoonful of Duxelles on the
latter ; put the cutlet on the sauce ; cover it with the remainder
of the Duxelles, and finish with the other slice of ham.

Fold the sheet of paper so as to enclose the whole; pleat
the edges nicely; put the cutlet on a tray, and blow out the
papillote in a fairly hot oven. When taking it out of the oven,
transfer it to a dish, and serve instantly.

1360— c6te de veau pojarski

Completely separate the meat of the veal cutlet from the
bone ; clear it of all skin and gristle, and chop it up with half its
weight of butter, salt and pepper. Mass this mince-meat close
up to the bone, shaping it like a cutlet, and cook the whole in
clarified butter, turning it over very carefully in the process.

Dish with a suitable garnish.

1261— COTE DE VEAU ZINQARA

Cook the veal cutlet in butter ; at the same time prepare a slice
of raw ham, cut to the shape of the cutlet, and likewise tossed
in butter.

Dish the cutlet; set the slice of ham upon it, and surround
with a few tablespoonfuls of Zingara sauce.

Zingara sauce is prepared thus : Reduce a few tablespoonfuls
of white wine and mushroom cooking-liquor to half. Add
one-fifth pint of half-glaze, two tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce,
one tablespoonful of veal stock, one oz. of a julienne of tongue,
mushrooms and truffles; and set to boil for a few seconds.

1262— COTE DE VEAU FROIDE EN BELLE VUE

Let a little jelly set in a utensil somewhat resembling a cutlet
in shape. Trim the veal cutlet; decorate it with various little
vegetables, and sprinkle the latter with half-melted jelly, so as
to fix them.

Put the cutlet on the layer of set jelly, inside the utensil,
and let it lie with its decorated side undermost.

Add enough jelly to cover the cutlet, and let the former
set.

This done, pass the blade of a small knife (dipped in hot
water) round the cutlet; set the utensil for a moment upon a
napkin dipped in hot water, turn out the cutlet with care, and.
set it on a cold dish, with a border of chopped aspic, and a
frill on the bone.

422 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

1263— COTE DE VEAU FROIDE RUBENS

Trim the veal cutlet ; coat it with half-melted aspic, and cover
it with young hop shoots, cohered with tomato sauce cleared by
means of aspic.

Let the sauce thoroughly set, and then put the cutlet between
two layers of aspic as explained above.

N.B. Cold veal cutlets may also be served Belle-vue
fashion, after the very simple manner described under " Gren-
adinsen Belle-vue " (No. 1217).

1264— ROQNON DE VEAU

When sauted after the usual manner, veal kidney admits of
all the preparations given for sheep's kidney. (See the chapter
on Mutton.)

I shall now, therefore, only give those recipes which are
proper to veal kidney.

1265— ROQNON DE VEAU EN CASSEROLE

Trim the veal kidney and only leave a very slight layer of
fat all round it.

Heat one oz. of butter in a small, earthenware saucepan, also
called " cocotte "; put the seasoned kidney into the latter, and
cook it gently for about thirty minutes, taking care to turn it
often the while.

At the last minute sprinkle it with a tablespoonful of good
veal gravy. Serve it in the cocotte as it stands.

1266— ROQNON DE VEAU EN COCOTTE

Prepare the veal kidney and fry it in butter, as in the case of
the "en casserole" dish. Surround it with one and one-half
oz. of small pieces of blanched bacon, tossed in butter; one and
one-half oz. of raw, quartered mushrooms, also tossed, and
one and one-half oz. of small blanched potatoes, of the size
and shape of garlic cloves, and the same quantity of small,
glazed onions. Complete the cooking of the whole gently.

At the last minute, add a tablespoonful of good, veal gravy,
and serve the cocotte as it stands.

1267— ROQNON DE VEAU QRILL^

Trim the veal kidney, and leave a slight layer of fat all round
it. Cut it in half lengthwise, without completely separating the
two halves, and impale it on a small skewer, with the view
of keeping it in shape.

Season with salt and pepper, and grill it gently ; basting it
often the while with melted butter.

RELEVES AND ENTREES 423

Send separately, either a Maitre-d'h6tel, a Bercy, or other
butter suited to grills.

1268-ROQNON DE VEAU A LA LIEGEOISE

Prepare the veal kidney as for " en casserole." One minute
before serving, add one small wineglassful of burned gin, two
crushed juniper berries, and one tablespoonful of good veal
gravy. Serve in the cooking-utensil.

1269— ROQNON DE VEAU A LA MONTPENSIER

Trim the veal kidney, leaving a slight coating of fat all round
it, and cut into five or six slices. Season the latter, toss them
in butter over a brisk fire, and transfer them to a plate.

Swill the saucepan with one tablespoonful of Madeira, and
add thereto three tablespoonfuls of melted meat glaze, a few
drops of lemon juice, one and one-half oz. of butter, and a pinch
of chopped parsley.

Dish the pieces of kidney, or set them in a timbale;
sprinkle them with the sauce, and in their midst set a heap
of asparagus-heads, cohered with butter, and one and one-half
oz. of truffle slices.

1270— ROQNON DE VEAU PORTUQAISE

Cut up the veal kidney, and toss it in butter, after the manner
described under No. 1269.

Dish the pieces in a circle on a dish ; set a very small, stuffed
half-tomato upon each, and garnish the centre of the dish with
a very reduced tomato fondue. Surround the kidney with a
sauce prepared as directed above.

1271— ROQNON DE VEAU A LA ROBERT

Heat one oz. of butter in a small cocotte; put the seasoned
veal kidney therein ; fry it over a brisk fire, and set it to cook
in the oven for about fifteen minutes. Serve the kidney as it
leaves the oven, and complete the procedure, at the table, in
the following manner : —

Transfer the kidney to a hot plate. Place the cocotte on a
spirit lamp; pou;r into the former one glassful of excellent
liqueur brandy, and reduce to half. Meanwhile, quickly cut
the kidney into extremely thin slices, and cover these with an
overturned plate.

Add to the reduced liqueur brandy one coffeespoonful of
mustard, one oz. of butter cut into small pieces, the juice of a
quarter of a lemon, and a pinch of chopped parsley; and work
the whole well with a fork, with the view of effecting the leason.

Put the sliced kidney into this sauce, together with the

424 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

gravy that has drained from it; heat the whole well, without
boiling, and serve on very hot plates.

1272— TENDRONS DE VEAU

The tendrons are cut from breast of veal. They are, in fact,
the extreme ends of the ribs, including the cartilage of the
sternum.

If the tendrons are braised, treat them after the manner
described under " The Braising of White Meats " (No. 248) ; or,
simply stew them in butter; moisten them with excellent veal
stock, and baste them frequently while cooking them. They
may also be treated like an ordinary veal saute, from which they
only differ in shape, and the various preparations of which may
be adapted to them.

The garnishes best suited to them are those of early-season
vegetables, and, as a matter of fact, the latter, together with
such pastes as noodles, macaroni, spaghetti, etc., are the gar-
nishes most often served with them.

1273— BLANQUETTE DE VEAU A L'ANCIENNE

Cut the veal tendrons into pieces weighing about three oz.
Then, slightly blanch them ; cool them, and put them into a
saucepan with enough white stock to cover; add a very little
salt; set to boil, and skim.

For two lbs. of tendrons, add one small carrot; one fair-
sized onion, stuck with a clove; a faggot, consisting of one
leek, parsley stalks, and a fragment of thyme and bay ; and set
to cook gently for one and one-half hours.

Prepare a white roux from one and one-half oz. of butter
and one and one-half oz. of flour; moisten with one pint of
veal cooking-liquor; add one oz. of mushroom parings, and
cook for a quarter of an hour, despumating the sauce the while.

Transfer the pieces of tendron, one by one, to a saut^pan with
twelve small onions cooked in consomm^, and fifteen small,
cooked and very white mushrooms. Finish the sauce with a
leason of two egg-yolks, mixed with three tablespoonfuls of
cream and a few drops of lemon juice; strain it over the veal
and its garnish ; heat without boiling ; dish in a timbale, and
sprinkle with a pinch of chopped parsley.

N.B. This blanquette may also be prepared with noodles
or cepes, instead of with ordinary mushrooms.

1274— BLANQUETTE DE VEAU AUX CI&LERIS,
CARD0N5, ETC.

Prepare the blanquette exactly as explained above, and set it
to cook with the veal and the vegetable selected for the garnish,

RELEVES AND ENTREES 425

i.e., either small heads of celery cut into two or four, or car-
doons, cut into pieces and well blanched. The endives are not
blanched; they need only be well washed and put with the veal.
When cooked, drain the vegetables, trim them, and dish
them in a timbale with the veal and the sauce ; the latter pre-
pared as directed and strained over the meat.

1275— BLANQUETTE DE VEAU AUX NOUILLES

Proceed as for " Blanquette k I'ancienne," but suppress the
garnish of onions and mushrooms.

When the blanquette is dished, set thereon heaps of noodles,
parboiled and cohered with butter, and cover these with raw
noodles tossed quickly in butter; allow three oz. of tossed
noodles per lb. of those cohered.

1276— FRICASSEE DE VEAU

Fricassee differs from blanquette in this, namely, that the
pieces of veal in the former are stiffened in butter without colour-
ation.

When the meat has been well stiffened, besprinkle it with
about one oz. of flour per lb. ; cook this flour with the meat for
a few minutes; then moisten the fricassee with white stock;
season, and set to boil, stirring the while. All the garnishes
of mushrooms and vegetables given for blanquette may be
served with fricassee ; but in the case of the latter, both the meat
and the garnish are cooked in the sauce, the leason of which
is effected by means of egg-yolks and cream, as for blanquette.

1277— FRICADELLES

Fricadelles are a kind of meat balls, somewhat like those
commonly prepared in private households. They are made
from raw or cooked meat, in the following manner : —

Fricadelles -with Raw Meat. — For ten fricadelles, each
weighing three and one-half oz., chop up one lb. of very lean
veal, cleared of all fat and gristle, together with two-thirds of a
lb. of butter. Put the whole into a bowl, and add thereto
five oz. of soaked and well-pressed crumb of bread, two eggs,
half an oz. of salt, a pinch of pepper and a little nutmeg, and
two oz. of chopped onion cooked in butter without colouration.

Mix the whole well, and divide it up into portions weighing
three and one-half oz.

Fashion these portions to the shape of quoits, by first rolling
them into balls on a flour-dusted board, and afterwards flattening
them out with the flat of a knife.

Heat some butter or very pure fat in a saut^pan ; put the

426 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

fricadelles therein ; brown them on both sides, and then com-
plete their cooking in the oven.

This done, set them on a round dish, and serve them, either
with a vegetable purte, a Piquante or a Robert sauce.

Fricadelles with Cooked Meat. — For ten fricadelles, each
weighing two and one-half oz., chop one lb. of cooked veal,
fat and lean, somewhat finely.

Put it into a bowl with a large pinch of salt, another of
pepper, and a little nutmeg. Add the pulp of three fair-sized
potatoes, baked in the oven ; three oz. of chopped onions, cooked
in butter without colouration ; one large egg, and one table-
spoonful of chopped parsley. Mix well ; divide up into portions
of the weight already given, and shape and cook them as in
the previous case.

These fricadelles are served with vegetable pur(^es and the
sauces suited to those prepared from raw meat.

1278— PAUPIETTES DE VEAU

Paupiettes or scrolls are made from extremely thin slices of
veal, four in. long by two in. wide. After having seasoned them,
cover them with forcemeat or very fine mincemeat; roll them,
with their forcemeat-coat inside, into scrolls, and tie them
round, once or twice, with string, that they may keep their
shape while cooking. They are sometimes covered with thin
rashers of bacon. Paupiettes are always braised, gently and
protractedly.

They are generally garnished with vegetable purees; but
they may be served just as well with all vegetable garnishes.

By making them half the usual size, they may, after having
been braised, serve as the garnish for a timbale, together with
noodles, gniokis, spaghetti, or with Financifere, Milanaise or
Napolitaine garnish, etc.

1279— SAUTES DE VEAU

The pieces best suited to veal sautes are : the breast and the
shoulder, as also those parts of the haunch other than the
cushion and undercushion.

1280— SAUTE DE VEAU A LA MARENGO

Heat one pint of oil in a saut^pan, until it smokes. Put
therein two lbs. of veal, cut into pieces, each weighing two oz.,
and fry until the latter are well set. Add a chopped half onion
and a crushed half-clove of garlic, and fry again for a few
moments.

Drain away the oil, tilting the saut^pan with its lid on, for

RELEVES AND ENTREES 427

the purpose; moisten with a quarter of a pint of white wine;
reduce, and add two-thirds of a quart of thin Espagnole sauce,
one and one-half lbs. of tomatoes, pressed and cut into pieces
(or one pint of tomato sauce), and a faggot.

Set to boil, and cook in the oven gently for one and one-half
hours.

At the end of that time, transfer the pieces of veal, one by
one, to another saucepan with fifteen small glazed onions, and
five oz. of mushrooms. Reduce the sauce; strain it over the
veal and its garnish, add two large pinches of concussed parsley,
and cook for a further quarter of an hour.

When about to serve, clear of all grease, dish in a timbale,
and surround with small heart-shaped croutons of bread-crumb,
fried in oil.

1281— SAUT6 DE VEAU CHASSEUR

Cut the veal into pieces as above, and fry these well in
butter or oil.

Drain away the grease; moisten with one quart of brown
stock, add two tablespoonfuls of tomato pur^e, and a faggot;
set to boil, and cook in the oven gently for one and one-half
hours.

Transfer the pieces to another saucepan ; strain ; reduce their
cooking-liquor by a quarter, and add it to one-quarter of a pint
of Chasseur sauce (No. 3;^).

Pour this sauce over the pieces of veal, and cook again
for a quarter of an hour. Dish in a timbale, and sprinkle with
chopped parsley.

1282— SAUT6 DE VEAU PRINTANIER

Fry the pieces of veal in butter. Moisten with two-thirds of
a quart of brown stock and one-fifth of a pint of half-glaze ; add
a faggot; boil, and cook in the oven gently for one hour.

This done, transfer the pieces to another saucepan ; add
thereto a garnish of carrots, new turnips, and small, new pota-
toes ; strain the sauce over the veal and the garnish, and cook
for a further three-quarters of an hour.

Dish in a timbale and distribute over the saute a few table-
spoonfuls of peas and French beans in lozenge-form, both
cooked a I'anglaise.

1283— SAUTjg DE VEAU A LA CATALANE

Cut up, saute, and cook the veal gently for one and one-half
hours, as for No. 1280.

Transfer the pieces of veal to another saucepan, and add

428 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

to them three small peeled and pressed tomatoes, quartered
and tossed in butter; ten small onions cooked in butter; six oz.
of raw, quartered mushrooms ; ten chestnuts, three-parts cooked
in consomm6, and eight Chipolata sausages.

Reduce the sauce to one-third of a pint; strain it over the
veal and its garnish; cook for a further quarter of an hour,
and dish in a timbale.

1284— SAUTES DE VEAU DIVERS

Veal saute may also be prepared with mushrooms, fines
herbes, egg-plant, tomatoes, or " Currie k I'lndienne," etc.

1285— PAIN DE VEAU

Prepare " Pain de Veau " exactly as directed under No.
1252 ; but substitute for the liver some very white veal.

Pain de veau is generally accompanied by a white sauce,
such as velout^ prepared with mushroom essence, Allemande
sauce prepared with mushrooms, Supreme sauce, etc.

1286— CALF'S FEET

Calf's feet serve chiefly in supplying the gelatinous element
of aspics, and the body of braising stock. They are rarely
used in the preparation of a special dish ; but, should they be
so used, they may be cooked and served after the manner
directed in the recipes treating of calf's head.

1287— CALVES' TONGUES

Provided the difference of size be allowed for, calf's tongue
may be prepared like ox tongue, and served with the same
garnishes. (See Ox Tongue, Nos. 1153 to 1158 inclusive.)

1288— CALF'S BRAINS AND AMOURETTES

Calf's brains form the most wholesome and reparative diet
for all those who are debilitated by excessive head-work ; and
the same remark applies to the brains of the ox and the sheep.

The amourettes mentioned here, which almost always
accompany ox brains, are only the spinal marrow of the ox or
the calf. This may be used in the preparation of a few special
dishes ; but all the recipes dealing with brains may be applied
to it.

1289— THE COOKINQ OF BRAINS

Carefully remove the membrane enveloping the brains or the
amourettes, and put them to soak in fresh water, until they are
quite white. Put the brains in a saucepan with enough boiling

RELEVES AND ENTREES 429

court-bouillon (No. 163) to cover them well ; skim and then set
to cook gently.

Brains have this peculiarity, namely, that prolonged
cooking only stiffens them; thus, calf's brains only take half
an hour to cook; but they may cook for two hours more without
harm, seeing that the process only tends to make them firmer.

1290— CERVELLE A LA BEAUMONT

Cut the brains into slices; on each slice put a layer of gratin
force-meat (No. 202) prepared from foie gras and softened by
means of a little cold, brown sauce, and a slice of truffle. Re-
construct the brains by putting the coated slices together again.

Roll some puff-paste remains into a galette one-fifth of an
inch thick, the diameter of which should be in proportion to
the size of the brains under treatment. Put the brains in the
middle of the galette, and cover them with the same forcemeat
as that laid on the slices ; sprinkle with chopped truffles ; moisten
the edges of the paste, and draw these over the brains so as to
enclose the latter completely.

Gild; make a slit in the top for the escape of steam, and
bake in a hot oven for fifteen minutes. After taking the
pie out of the oven, pour a few tablespoonfuls of P^rigueux
sauce into the former, and dish on a napkin.

1 29 1— CERVELLE AU BEURRE NOIR

Slice the brains; set the slices on a dish, and season them
with salt and pepper.

Cook two oz. of butter in the frying-pan until it is slightly
blackened; throw therein a pinch of parsley pluches, and
sprinkle the brains with this butter. Pour a few drops of
vinegar into the burning frying-pan, and add it to the brains.

1292— CERVELLE AU BEURRE NOISETTE

Slice and season the brains as above. Cook the butter until
it has acquired a golden colour and exhales a nutty smell ; pour
it over the brains, and finish with a few drops of lemon juice
and a pinch of chopped parsley.

1293— CERVELLE A LA MARECHALE

Cut the brains into regular slices, one-third of an inch thick ;
treat them a I'anglaise with very fine bread-crumbs, and brown
them in clarified butter.

Dish them in the form of a circle, with a slice of truffle on
each, and garnish the centre of the dish with a fine heap of
asparagus-heads cohered with butter.

430 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

1294— CERVELLE A LA POULETTE

Prepare half a pint of poulette sauce (No. loi), combined
with three oz. of small, cooked, and very white mushrooms.

Add the brains, cut into slices ; toss them gently in the sauce,
taking care lest they break; dish them in a timbale, and
sprinkle with a pinch of chopped parsley.

1295— CERVELLE A LA VILLEROY

Cut the raw brains into slices; season them, and poach them
in butter.

Dip the slices into an almost cold Villeroy sauce, in suchwise
as to cover them with a thick coating of it. Leave to cool, and
treat them a I'anglaise. Set to cook for a few minutes before
serving, and dish on a napkin with fried parsley.

Serve a light Pdrigueux sauce separately.

1296— VOL AU VENT DE CERVELLE

Prepare a vol-au-vent crust, as explained under No. 2390.
Slice the brains, and put the slices into half-a-pint of Allemande
sauce, with twelve quenelles of ordinary forcemeat, poached just
before dishing up ; four oz. of small, cooked mushrooms, and
one oz. of truffle slices, five or six of which should be reserved.

Pour the garnish into the vol au vent ; set upon the latter the
reserved slices of truffle, and dish on a folded napkin.

1297— AMOURETTES A LA TOSCA

Poach one lb. of aviourettes, as explained above, and cut
them into lengths of one in.

Prepare a garnish of macaroni cohered with butter and grated
Parmesan, and add thereto four tablespoonfuls of a crayfish
cullis per four oz. of macaroni; three crayfishes' tails for each
person, and two-thirds of the pieces of amourettes. Toss well,
in order to thoroughly mix the whole; dish in a timbale; cover
the macaroni with what remains of the pieces of amourettes, and
cover them slightly with crayfish cullis.

RELEVES AND ENTREES 431

MUTTON, GRASS LAMB AND HOUSE LAMB

Releves and Entrees.

From the culinary standpoint, the ovine species supplies
three kinds of meat, viz : —

Mutton — properly so-called when the meat is derived from
the adult animal.

Lamb — the young, weaned sheep, not yet fully grown, the
meat of which is the more highly esteemed the younger the
animal is.

House Lamb — the sheep's unweaned young that has not yet
grazed.

The " Pauillac " Iamb, which is imported from France, is
the most excellent example of the last kind. Good house lambs
are also killed in England ; they are quite equal to Pauillac
lamb, but their season is short. As regards ordinary English
mutton and lamb, however, the delicacy and quality of these
meats are unrivalled.

But for its greater delicacy and tenderness, grass lamb,
which corresponds v.'ith what the French call " agneau de pr6-
sal^ " is scarcely distinguishable from mutton. The recipes
suited to it are the same as those given for mutton ; and all that
is necessary is to allow for differences of quality in calculating
the time of cooking.

House lamb, the white flesh of which is quite different,
admits of some of the mutton recipes; but it is generally pre-
pared after special formulfe, the details of which I shall give
hereafter.

When served roasted, hot or cold, mutton and grass and
house lamb are always accompanied by mint sauce, the recipe
for which I gave under No. 136.

In view of the similarity of their preparations, and in order
to avoid finicking repetitions, I have refrained from giving sepa-
rate recipes for lamb and mutton respectively. The reader will
therefore bear in mind that the formute relating to mutton also
apply to grass lamb.

432 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

1298— SADDLE OF MUTTON

1299— BARON OR PAIR OF HIND=QUARTERS OF MUTTON

1300— DOUBLE OR PAIR OF LEGS OF MUTTON

130 1— FILLETS OF MUTTON

1302— NECK OF MUTTON (Relev6s)

Saddle of mutton is that part of the sheep which reaches from
the bone of the haunch to the floating ribs.

Baron of mutton comprises the saddle and the two legs, i.e.,
a pair of hind-quarters.

Double consists of the two unseparated legs, minus the
saddle.

The Baron and the Double are almost always cuts of lamb.

The fillet is one half of the saddle, when the latter is cut
into two, lengthwise ; that is to say, divided down the middle in
suchwise as to bisect the spinal column. These fillets are some-
times boned, rolled over with the kernel of meat in the centre,
and strung, in which case the skin should be removed before
rolling. Saddle of mutton, before being roasted, should be
cleared of all its superfluous underlying fat; and the flanks
should be so shortened as to just meet when drawn over the
fillets. The overlying skin should be removed, and the saddle
should be strung in five or six places to keep it in shape.

In the case of a saddle of lamb, the skin need not be com-
pletely removed, but slit in various places. As to neck of
mutton, this should be shortened as for the cutting of ordinary
cutlets ; the skin and the bones of the chine should be removed,
as also the meat at the end of the rib-bones^ down to two-thirds
in. from the extremity of each. The cushion is then covered
with slices of bacon, tied on with string.

When the piece is roasted and dished, a frill should be
placed on the end of each bared bone. Neck of mutton ought
never to comprise more than nine to ten ribs, counting from the
floating ones; it should consist of rather less if anything.

Mutton Relev^s allow more particularly of vegetable and rice
garnishes.

Garnishes with sauces do not suit them so well, even when
the pieces are braised. As for paste garnishes, such as
macaroni, noodles, gniokis; they are seldom used.

Garnishes for mutton relev^s should therefore be chosen, in
preference, from among the following, the details of which I
gave under " Filet de Boeuf " (Nos. 1044 to 1074) a"d which I
recall hereafter: —

Andalouse, Bouquetiere, Chatelaine, Clamart, Dauphine,

RELEVES AND ENTREES 433

Dubarry, Duchesse, Japonaise, Jardiniere, Lorette, MacddoinCf
Montmorency, Moderne, Nivernaise, Orientale, Petit-Due,
Provengale, Renaissance, Richelieu, St. Germain.

Apart from these compound garnishes, the following simple
garnishes also suit admirably, either alone, or separated by
some kind of potato preparation : —

Braised Lettuce, stuffed with ordinary forcemeat or rice.

Cabbages, moulded to the shape of small balls, braised and
stuffed with fine mince-meat or rice.

Haricot-beans, Peas and Broad-beans, cohered with butter.

Asparagus-heads, white or green, cooked and cohered with
butter.

Celery, Endives, and Chicory, all braised. Brussels
Sprouts, Cauliflowers, Brocoli, etc.

Finally, the garnishes and modes of preparation termed :
d I'Anglaise, a la Boulangere, Braises, Marine en Chevreuil,
which I give below for the leg and the shoulder, may be applied
perfectly well to other large pieces of mutton.

1303— LARGE COLD JOINTS OF MUTTON

Refer to Cold Beef; in all cases keep the dishing simple.
The garnishing is optional.

1304— LEG AND SHOULDER OF MUTTON

Legs of mutton or lamb ought never to appear on any but
an ordinary luncheon menu. Although, strictly speaking, they
should always be served after one of the ways described here-
after, all the garnishes given above may be applied to them.

Shoulders may be roasted whole; but they may also be
boned, seasoned inside, rolled up, and firmly strung. They
may be treated like the legs, and the same garnishes are suited
to them.

1305— QIQOT BOUILLI A L'ANGLAISE

Trim the leg, shorten it in the region of the tibia bone, and
plunge it into a stewpan of boiling water, salted in the propor-
tion of one-third oz. of salt per quart of water.

For an ordinary leg, add : three medium-sized carrots, two
onions, each stuck with a clove, a faggot, and two cloves of
garlic.

Let the leg cook for a quarter of an hour for each two lbs. of
its weight.

Dish with vegetables all round, and serve at the same time
a butter sauce with capers.

N.B. — Leg of mutton d I'anglaise may be accompanied by

F F

434 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

purees of turnips, celery, etc., and these vegetables should cook
with the meat. A pur^e of potatoes or of haricot beans may be
sent to the table with the meat ; but, in this case, of course, the
vegetables would be served separately.

1306— BRAISED LEG OF MUTTON

Suppress the pelvic bone, shorten the end bone and brown
the leg in the oven.

Now, put it in an oval utensil, garnished for braising ; add
just enough white stock to barely cover the joint, and cook
gently, allowing forty minutes per lb. of meat.

Transfer the leg to a tray; strain the braising-liquor ; clear
it of all grease, and reduce it to half. Sprinkle the meat with
a few tablespoonfuls of this reduced gravy, and set it to glaze
in the oven.

Serve at the same time : —

(i) Either a pur^e of potatoes, of turnips, of haricot-beans, of
cauliflower, etc., or

(2) The reduced braising-liquor.

1307— GiaOT A LA BOULANQERE

The leg may either be boned, seasoned inside and strung ; or
the end-bone may simply be shortened and that of the pelvis
removed.

In either case, put it in an earthenware dish, and brown it
well in the oven, on both sides; then complete its cooking, all
but a third.

This done, set round the joint four large, sliced onions, just
tossed in butter, that they may acquire some colour, and eight
large, peeled potatoes cut into roundels one half in. thick.
Sprinkle this garnish with the grease of the joint, and then com-
plete the cooking of the leg and its garnish.

Serve in the dish in which the joint has cooked.

1308— QIQOT MARINE EN CHEVREUIL

Shorten the end-bone; remove the bone of the pelvis, and
skin the top of the leg, leaving the meat in that region quite
bare. Lard with very small strips of bacon, and put the meat
into a marinade prepared after the manner described under No.
170. The length of its stay in the marinade should be based
upon the tenderness of the meat and atmospheric conditions.
In winter the time averages about three or four days, and in
summer two days.

To Roast the Joint. — Withdraw it from the marinade and
dry it thoroughly ; set it on a stand in the baking-tray ; and put

RELEVES AND ENTREES 435

it into a very fierce oven, that the meat may set immediately.
The object of the very fierce oven is to prevent the juices
absorbed from the marinade escaping in steam and thereby
hardening the meat.

Towards the close of the operation, rissole the larding bacon
well.

Set on a long dish ; fix a frill to the bone, and serve a Chev-
reuil sauce separately.

ChevreuU Sauce a la Frangaise. — With the marinade of the
joint and a Mirepoix with ham, prepare a sufficient quantity of
Poivrade sauce (No. 49) to obtain two-thirds of a pint of it after
it has been strained through a colander — an operation which
should be effected with the application of great pressure to the
aromatics.

Despumate this sauce for thirty minutes, and add, little by
little, half a wine-glassful of excellent red wine. Finish the sea-
soning with a little cayenne and a pinch of powdered sugar,
and once more rub the whole through tammy or a fine strainer.

1309— GIQOT A LA SOUBISE

Braise the leg of mutton as shown under No. 247. When it
is two-thirds done, transfer it to another utensil ; strain the
braising-liquor over it, and add thereto three lbs. of sliced onions
and two-third lb. of rice.

Gently complete the cooking of the joint, together with the
onions and the rice. This done: — (i) put it on a baking-tray
and glaze it in the oven ; (2) quickly rub the onions and the rice
through a fine sieve or tammy.

Set the leg of mutton on a long dish; put a frill on the
bone, and serve, separately, the well-heated Soubise, finished
with one oz. of butter.

N.B. — This Soubise may be prepared separately; but in this
case it has much less flavour than when it is made from the
onions and the rice which have cooked in the braising-liquor.
I therefore urge the adoption of the recipe as it starids.

13 10— COLD LEG OF MUTTON

Dish it very simply, like other cold large joints of mutton.

131 1— CUTLETS

Mutton and lamb cutlets are sometimes sauted; but_ grilling
is the most suitable method of cooking them. When the nature
of their preparation requires that they should be treated a
I'anglaise, fry them in clarified butter. All the garnishes, given

436 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

under " Tournedos," except those served with sauces, may be
applied to cutlets.

The latter also allow of a few special garnishes, and these I
give in the following recipes.

1312— c6TELETTES a la CHAMPVALLON (10 Cutlets)

Take some cutlets from the region underlying the shoulder ;
that is to say, those uncovered by the removal of this joint.
And do not clear the bone-ends of their meat, as when frills are
to be fixed to them.

Season them with salt and pepper, and brown them in butter
on both sides. This done, put them in an earthenware dish with
half lb. of sliced onions, tossed in butter without colouration;
moisten with enough white stock to almost cover the cutlets and
the onions ; add the quarter of a clove of garlic, crushed, and a
faggot; boil, and set in the oven. At the end of twenty
minutes, add one and one-half lbs. of potatoes, fashioned to
the shape of corks, and cut into thin roundels; season, and
complete the cooking, basting often the while.

When the cutlets are cooked, the moistening should be almost
entirely reduced.

1313— C6TELETTES LAURA

Grill the cutlets, and, meanwhile, prepare a garnish (the
quantity of which should be such as to allow two and one-half
oz. of it per cutlet) of parboiled macaroni, cut into half-inch
lengths, cohered with cream, and combined, per lb., with three
and one-half oz. of peeled, pressed, and concussed tomatoes,
tossed in butter.

Or, when white truffles are in season, prepare some macaroni
with cream, as above, combined with the peelings of raw, white
truffles.

Cut some very soft pig's caul into triangles, proportionate in
size to the cutlets; spread a little macaroni on each triangle; on
the latter set a cutlet ; cover the cutlets with some more macaroni,
and enclose the whole in the caul. Lay the cutlets on a dish.

Sprinkle with fine raspings and melted butter, and set to
grill at the salamander, or in a fierce oven, for seven or eight
minutes.

Dish the cutlets in the form of a crown, and surround them
with a thread of clear half-glaze sauce, combined with tomatoes.

1314— C6TELETTES A LA MAINTENON

Fry the cutlets in butter, on one side only. This done, put
a hgaped t^blespoonfyl of a Maint^non preparation (No. 92^)

RELEVES AND ENTREES 437

on each ; shape it like a dome, by means of the blade of a small
knife dipped in tepid water, and put the cutlets, one by one,
on a tray. The Maintenon preparation should be laid on the
cooked side of each cutlet and sprinkled with fine raspings and
melted butter. Now put the cutlets in a rather hot oven for
seven or eight minutes in order to : —

(i) Allow a gratin to form over the surface of the garnish.

(2) Finish the cooking of the cutlets.

Dish the latter in the form of a crown, and serve, separately,
a sauceboat of meat glaze finished with butter.

1315— COTELETTES A LA MURILLO

Fry the cutlets in butter, on one side only; and garnish the
cooked side, dome-fashion, with a fine hash of mushrooms,
cohered with a little very reduced Bechamel sauce.

Set them on a tray; sprinkle with grated Parmesan and a
few drops of melted butter, and glaze in a fierce oven. Dish
the cutlets in the form of a crown ; fix a frill to each, and sur-
round them with mild capsicums and tomatoes, both of which
should be sliced, tossed in butter, and mixed.

1316— c6telettes a la proven^ale

For ten cutlets : — (i) Reduce one-half pint of Bechamel sauce
to a third, and add thereto the third of a garlic clove, crushed,
and the yolks of three eggs; (2) prepare at the same time as
the cutlets, ten grilled mushrooms ; and ten stoned, stuffed and
poached olives, girded by a strip of anchovy fillet.

Fry the cutlets in butter, on one side only. Cover the
cooked side of each with the preparation described above; set
them on a tray ; sprinkle them with a few drops of melted butter,
and put them in the oven, that their garnish may be glazed
and that their cooking may be completed.

Dish in the form of a circle; place a grilled mushroom
(convex side uppermost) in the middle of each cutlet, and,
on each mushroom, a stuffed olive.

1316a— C6TELETTES DE MOUTON A LA REFORME

Trim six mutton cutlets; season them; dip them in melted
butter, and roll them in bread-crumbs^ combined with finely-
chopped ham in the proportion of a third of the weight of the
bread-crumbs. Now cook them gently in clarified butter.

Dish them in a circle on a hot dish, and send the following
sauce to the table with them : —

Take a small saucepan, and mix therein three tablespoon-
fuls of half-glaze sauce, the same quantity of Poivrade sauce,

43S GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

and one coffeespoonful of red-currant jelly; add one coffee-
spoonful of each of the following short julienne garnishes to
the sauce; viz.: hard-boiled white of egg; very red, salted
tongue; gherkins; mushrooms, and trufflest

1317— C6TELETTES A LA SlgVIQNE

Have ready a preparation of mushroom and artichoke-
bottom croquettes, in the proportion of one heaped tablespoonful
for each cutlet.

Fry the cutlets in butter, on one side only. Garnish the
fried side of each, dome-fashion, with the above preparation ;
treat them a I'anglaise, and sprinkle them with melted butter.

Put them in the oven to complete their cooking, and, at
the same time, to colour their coating of egg and bread-crumbs.

Dish in the form of a crown.

1318— COTELETTES A LA SUEDOISE

Place the cutlets on a dish, and drop thereon some minced
onions and shallots, bits of parsley stalks, thyme and bay.
Sprinkle them with the juice of a lemon and a few drops of
oil, and leave them to marinade for thirty minutes, turning
them over the while, from time to time.

This done, dry them ; dip them in melted butter, sprinkle
them with bread-crumbs, and grill them.

Dish them in the form of a crown, and garnish the centre
of the dish with the following, which may also be sent separ-
ately : one-half lb. of peeled and finely-sliced apples, quickly
stewed to a pur^e with the third of a wineglassful of white
wine. When about to serve, add to this pur^e two and one-
half oz. of finely-grated horse-radish, or the latter grated and
afterwards finely chopped.

1319— c6telettes en belle vue

Proceed after one of the recipes given for veal cutlets and
grenadins "en Belle Vue."

1320— cotelettes en chaudfroid

Cut some very regular cutlets from a neck of mutton or
lamb, which should have been trimmed as explained, braised,
and left to cook in its braising-liquor. Clear all grease from
the latter; strain it; reduce it, and add to it a brown chaud-
froid sauce (No. 34).

Dip the cutlets in the sauce when it is almost cold; set
them on a tray ; deck the kernel of meat in each with a fine slice

RELEVts AND ENTRIES 439

of truffle, and sprinkle with cold, melted aspic. When the
sauce has set well, pass the point of a small knife round the
cutlets, with the view of removing the superfluous sauce; and
either dish them round a vegetable salad, cohered and moulded,
or simply dish them in the form of a circle and place a pyramid
of cohered, vegetable salad in their midst.

132 1— NOISETTES DE MOUTON

Mutton noisettes, and especially those of lamb, may be
classed among the choicest of entries. They are cut from either
the fillet or the neck ; but, in the latter case, only the first six
or seven ribs are used.

Noisettes are grilled or sauted, and all the recipes given for
Tournedos (Nos. 1077 to 1139) and for cutlets, may be applied
to them.

1322— MINION FILLETS

The minion fillets of mutton or lamb consist of the two
muscles which lie under the saddle. Their mode of preparation
changes according to their size. Thus, if they are small, they
are served whole, after having been trimmed, sometimes larded;
and sauted.

If they are large, they are divided into two or three parts,
cut laterally and aslant ; they are flattened, trimmed to the shape
of ellipses, seasoned, dipped in melted butter, sprinkled with
fine bread-crumbs, and finally, gently grilled.

Minion fillets of beef, obtained from the narrow extremity
or head of the fillet, are also used occasionally ; and these are
generally flattened, dipped in butter and fine bread-crumbs, and
grilled.

These fillets are served chiefly with vegetable purees or with
macedoines of fresh vegetables.

The sauces best suited to them are the B^arnaise and the
Robert Escoffier.

1323— SHEEP'S TONGUES

Salted or fresh sheep's tongues make an excellent luncheon
entree.

They are cooked after the manner of ox and calf's tongues,
due allowance being made for the difference of size.

The various garnishes given for ox and calf's tongues may
also be used in this case.

1324— SHEEP'S TROTTERS

Sheep's trotters, as they reach us from the purveyor, should
first be well singed over spirits of wine, and then rubbed with
a clean piece of linen. The little tuft of hair in the cleft of

440 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

the hoof is next removed, the hoof itself is suppressed, and
the trotters are split open lengthwise and boned. Sheep's
trotters are cooked like calf's feet, in the special court-bouillon
or blanc, given under No. 167.

132s— FRITOT OF SHEEP'S TROTTERS

Fifteen minutes before frying them, put the sheep's trotters
into a receptacle with lemon juice, a few drops of oil and some
chopped parsley; keeping the quantity of these ingredients in
proportion to the number of trotters. Be careful to toss the
latter from time to time in the marinade.

A few moments before serving, dip the half-trotters into
batter (No. 232) and plunge them into an abundant and hot
frying-medium.

Drain them when the batter is nicely dry and golden ; and
dish on a napkin with a border of very green fried parsley.

Serve a tomato sauce separately.

1326— PIEDS DE MOUTON POULETTE

For this dish the trotters should, as far as possible, be
freshly cooked. For twenty trotters prepare two-thirds of a pint
of poulette sauce; add the trotters thereto, well drained; toss
them in the sauce, and dish them in a timbale with a sprinkling
of chopped parsley.

1327— PIEDS DE MOUTON ROUENNAISE

Instead of cooking the sheep's trotters in a blanc, braise
them ; add a little Madeira to their braising-liquor, and cook
them thoroughly.

Prepare a forcemeat, consisting of one and one-half lbs. of
very fine sausage-meat; three oz. of chopped onions, cooked in
butter without colouration, and a large pinch of parsley.

When the trotters are cooked, transfer them to a dish;
almost entirely reduce their braising-liquor; add to this two
liqueur-glassfuls of burnt brandy, for each ten trotters, and add
this reduced braising-liquor to the forcemeat. Cut ten rect-
angles six inches long by four inches wide out of pig's caul.

Spread a tablespoonf ul of forcemeat over each ; set two
trotters on the forcemeat of each rectangle ; cover up with force-
meat, and draw the ends of the caul together in suchwise as
to enclose the whole.

Sprinkle with bread-crumbs and melted butter ; grill gently,
and serve.

RELEVES AND ENTREES 441

1328— PIEDS DE MOUTON TYROLIENNE

Cook a fair-sized chopped onion in butter, together with
three peeled, pressed, and roughly-chopped tomatoes. Season
with salt and pepper; add a pinch of chopped parsley, a little
crushed garlic, one-sixth of a pint of Poivrade sauce, and twenty
freshly-cooked and well-drained sheep's trotters.

Simmer for ten minutes and dish in a timbale.

1329— MUTTON KIDNEYS

Mutton kidneys are either grilled or sauted. When they are
to be grilled, first remove the fine skin enveloping them, cut
them in halves, without completely severing them on their con-
cave side, and impale them on a small skewer, with the view
of keeping them open during the grilling operation. Before
grilling they may or may not be dipped in melted butter and
rolled in bread-crumb.

When they are to be sauted, clear the kidneys, as before,
of the thin skin which envelops them ; cut them into halves,
and then into slices one-quarter in. thick.

Kidneys, of what kind soever, should be cooked very quickly,
otherwise they harden. After having seasoned them, put them
into very hot butter, and toss them over a fierce fire in order
to stiffen them. This done, drain them; and let them stand
for a few minutes, that they may exude the blood they contain,
which sometimes has a distinct ammoniacal smell.

Meanwhile, swill the utensil in which they have been sauted,
and finish the sauce, to which they are added when dishing
up. Never let the kidneys boil in the sauce, for they would
immediately harden.

1330— ROQNONS SAUTI&S BERCY

Slice, season, and quickly toss the mutton kidneys in butter,
and drain them.

For six kidneys put one tablespoonful of finely-chopped
shallots into the saucepan, and just heat it. Moisten with one-
sixth of a pint of white wine; reduce to half; add two table-
spoonfuls of melted meat glaze, and a few drops of lemon-
juice, and put the kidneys in this sauce. Add two and one-
half oz. of butter, cut into small pieces; melt this on the corner
of the stove, tossing and rolling the pan the while; dish in a
timbale, and sprinkle a pinch of chopped parsley over the
kidneys.

«33 1— ROQNONS SAUTES BORDELAISE

Fry the mutton kidneys, and drain them as above.

Put into the saucepan one-third of a pint of Bordelaise sauce

442 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

combined with poached dice of marrow, a pinch of chopped
parsley, and three oz. of sliced c^pes, tossed in butter and oil
and well drained.

Return the kidneys to the saucepan ; toss them in the sauce,
and dish in a timbale.
1332— ROQNONS SAUTES CARVALHO

Fry the skinned, halved and seasoned mutton kidneys in
butter, and dish them, each on a small crouton of bread-crumb,
cut to the shape of a cock's comb and fried in butter. On each
half-kidney, set a small cooked mushroom and a slice of truffle.

Swill the saucepan with Madeira ; add a little half-glaze ; put
in a small quantity of butter, away from the fire, and pour this
sauce over the kidneys.

1333— ROQNONS SAUTES AU CHAMPAGNE

Remove the outer skin from the mutton kidneys; cut them
in two lengthwise ; season them ; fry them quickly in butter, and
dish in a timbale.

Swill the saucepan with one-half pint of champagne per six
kidneys; reduce almost entirely; add two tablespoonfuls of
melted meat glaze; add a small quantity of butter, and pour
this sauce over the kidneys^.

N.B. — The preparation of kidneys sauted with wine always
follows the same principle ; that is to say, the saucepan in which
the kidneys have cooked is always swilled with a quantity of
wine, in proportion to the number of kidneys; a proportionate
amount of meat glaze is then added, and after the sauce has been
slightly buttered, the kidneys are tossed in it.

,334_ROaNONS SAUTES HONQROISE

Remove the outer skin from the mutton kidneys ; cut them
into halves; slice and season them; fry them in butter, and
drain them.

In the saucepan that has served in the cooking of the
kidneys, fry a chopped onion with butter, and add thereto a
pinch of paprika.

Moisten with a tablespoonful of cream, and reduce; add
one-sixth of a pint of velout6, boil for a moment, and rub
through tammy.

Heat this sauce; put the kidneys into it, toss them for a
minute, so as to heat without boiling them, and dish in a
timbale.
1335— ROQNONS SAUTES CHASSEUR

Quickly fry the sliced mutton kidneys in butter and drain
them.

RELEVES AND ENTREES 443

Swill the saucepan with white wine and almost entirely
reduce; add one-third of a pint of Chausseur sauce for each six
kidneys ; put the kidneys in this sauce, toss them for an instant ;
dish them in a timbale, and sprinkle with a pinch of chopped
parsley.

1336— ROQNONS 5AUTES A L'INDIENNE

For six mutton kidneys : fry a chopped onion in butter and
add a large pinch of curry thereto. Moisten with one-sixth pint
of velout^; cook for a few minutes, and rub through tammy.

Clear the kidneys of their outer skin; slice and season them,
and fry them quickly in butter. Put them into the sauce ; dish
them in a timbale, and serve some rice " k I'lndienne " sepa-
rately.

« 337— ROQNONS SAUTES A LA TURBIQO

Clear the mutton kidneys of their outer skin and cut them in
halves ; season them ; fry them quickly in butter, and dish them
in a circle in a timbale.

In their midst set a garnish of small, cooked mushrooms, and
grilled chipolata sausages ; and pour thereon a highly-seasoned,
tomat^d half-glaze sauce.

1338— CROUTE AUX ROQNONS

Cut some crusts two and one-half in. in diameter and one
and one-third in. thick, from a tin-loaf, and allow one for each
person. Remove the crumb from their inside, leaving only a
slight thickness at the bottom ; butter them, and dry them in
the oven.

Garnish these crusts with mutton kidneys sauted with mush-
rooms, and combined with small, ordinary forcemeat quenelles,
and slices of truffle.

Dish on a napkin, and serve very hot.

1339— TURBAN DE ROQNONS A LA PIEMONTAISE

Garnish a border or a Savarin-mould with " rizotto k la
Pi^montaise, ' ' press the latter lightly into the utensil, and keep
the mould hot.

Clear the mutton kidneys of their outer skin ; cut them into
halves; season them, and fry them quickly in butter.

Turn out on a round dish, set the half-kidneys in a circle
on the " Turban," alternating them with fine slices of truffle,
and pour a tomat^d half-glaze sauce, flavoured with truffle
essence, in the middle.

1340— ROQNONS A LA BROCHETTE

Cut the mutton kidneys into halves, as explained, without
dividing them ; impale them two or four at a time, on a skewer ;

444 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

season them, and grill them in a somewhat fierce oven. Set
them, with the skewers withdrawn, upon a hot dish, and put into
the cavity of each a piece of softened, Maitre-d'hotel butter, the
size of a hazel nut.

1341— ROQNONS BROCHETTE A L'ESPAQNOLE

Prepare the mutton kidneys as above.

Grill the same quantity of small, pressed and seasoned half-
tomatoes. Garnish these tomatoes with a piece, the size of
a walnut, of Maitre-d'hotel butter, combined with two-thirds oz.
of chopped capsicum per three oz. of butter. Dish these toma-
toes in a circle ; set a kidney on each, and surround with a border
consisting of rings of onion, seasoned, dredged and crisply fried
in oil.

1342— ROQNONS BROCHETTE AU VERT PRE

Prepare the mutton kidneys exactly as explained under the
first of this kind of recipes, and surround them with small
heaps of straw potatoes and bunches of very green parsley.

1343— BROCHETTES DE ROQNONS

Remove the outer skin from the mutton kidneys, and cut
them into roundels one-third in. thick. Season these roundels
and stiffen them in butter over a very fierce fire. Impale them
on skewers, alternating them with squares of blanched lean
bacon and slices of sauted mushrooms. Sprinkle with melted
butter and raspings, and grill.

These brochettes are generally served as they stand.

Various Preparations of Mutton.
1344— CASSOULET

(i) Set one quart of haricot beans to cook with two quarts
of water, one-third oz. of salt, one carrot, one onion stuck with
a clove, one faggot, six garlic cloves, and two-thirds lb. of fresh
pork rind, blanched and strung together. Boil; skim; cover,
and cook gently for one hour. At the end of this time, add
two-thirds lb. of breast of pork, and a sausage with garlic, of
the same weight as the pork. Salt the beans very moderately,
allowing for the reduction which they have ultimately to
undergo.

Complete the cooking of the whole gently.

(2) Fry gently in lard one lb. of shoulder, and the same
weight of breast, of mutton ; both cut into pieces one and one-
half oz. in weight.

This done, drain away half the grease; add two chopped

RELEVES AND ENTREES 445

onions and two crushed cloves of garlic, and fry again until
the onions have acquired a slight colour. Now pour in one-
sixth pint of good tomato purde ; moisten the meat, enough to
cover, with the cooking-liquor of haricot beans, and cook gently
in the oven for one and one-half hours at least.

(3) Garnish the bottom and sides of some cocottes or deep
dishes with bacon rind; fill these with alternate layers of the
pieces of mutton, the beans, the bacon cut into dice, and the
sausage cut into roundels.

Sprinkle the surface with raspings, and set the gratin to
form in a moderate oven for one hour; taking care to baste
from time to time with some reserved haricot-beans cooking-
liquor.

1345— CURRIE A L'INDIENNE

Cut two lbs. of lean mutton into cubes of one and one-third
in. side, and fry these in three oz. of lard, with one chopped
onion, salt, and a pinch of powdered curry. When the meat
is frizzled and the onions begin to colour, sprinkle with one
and one-third oz. of flour; cook the latter a while; moisten
with one and one-third pints of water or stock ; boil, stirring
the while, so as to dissolve the roux, and then cook gently in
the oven for one and one-half hours. When about to serve, clear
of all grease and dish in a timbale.

Send a timbale of rice k I'indienne separately.

1346— DAUBE A L'AVIQNONNAISE

Bone a medium-sized leg of mutton, and cut the meat into
squares, three oz. in weight. Lard each square with a large,
seasoned strip of bacon, inserted with the grain of the meat.
Put the pieces into a daubiere with a sliced half-carrot and
onion, three cloves of garlic, a little thyme, bay, and parsley
stalks. Moisten with one and one-third pints of good, red wine
and four tablespoonfuls of oil, and marinade in the cool for two
hours.

Prepare: — (i) Three chopped onions mixed with two
crushed garlic cloves; (2) one-half lb. of lean bacon, cut into
dice and blanched; (3) one-half lb. of fresh, bacon rind,
blanched and cut into squares of one in. side; (4) a large bunch
of parsley, containing a small piece of dry, orange peel. Gar-
nish the bottom and sides of a daubiere with thin slices of
bacon; set the pieces of mutton in layers inside, and alternate
them with layers of onion, bacon and bacon rind; sprinkle a
pinch of powdered thyme and bay on each layer of meat, Put
the faggot in the middle.

446 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

Moisten with the marinade, strained through a sieve, and
one-fifth pint of brown stock ; cover with slices of bacon ; close
the daubiere, and seal down the lid by means of a thread
of soft paste, in order that the steam may be concentrated inside.

Boil on the side of the stove ; put the daubiere in an oven
of regular heat (a baker's oven if possible) that the cooking
process may be gentle and steady, and cook for five hours.

When about to serve, uncover the daubihe; remove the
overlying slices of bacon ; clear of grease ; remove the faggot,
and dish the daubiere on a napkin.

N.B. — According to the household method, the " Daube "
is served in the daubiere itself; but, subject to the demands of
the service and in order that the preparation may keep its
bucolic character, it may be served in small earthenware
utensils.

1347— DAUBE FROIDE

Cold Daube constitutes an excellent luncheon dish. All
that is needed is to put what is left into a small daubiere, where,
as a result of the binding properties of the pork rinds, it will
set in a mass.

When about to serve, turn out on a round dish ; surround
with very light, chopped jelly; and carve into very thin slices.

1348— EMINCES ET HACHIS

An unalterable principle governs the preparation of emincds
and hashes, which is that the meats constituting these dishes
should never boil if it be desired that they be not hard.

They should, therefore, only be heated in their accom-
panying garnish or sauce, and in the case of eminc^s, cut as
finely as possible.

For the various recipes under this head, see the Chapter on
Beef. (Nos. 1175, 1178 and 1179.)

1349— HARICOT DE MOUTON

Heat three oz. of lard in a sautepan. Put therein one-half
lb. of lean bacon, cut into dice and blanched, and twenty small
onions. When the bacon is frizzled and the onions have
acquired a good colour, drain both on a dish. In the same fat,
fry three lbs. of breast, neck and shoulder of mutton, all three
being cut into pieces weighing about three oz. Keep the meat
in the fat until each piece of it has acquired a frizzled coat.

Drain away half of the grease ; add three crushed cloves of
garlic ; dust with two tablespoonf uls of flour, and cook the latter,
stirring the while.

Moisten with one quart of water; season with one-third oz.

RELEVES AND ENTREES 447

of salt and a pinch of pepper ; boil and stir ; add a faggot, and
cook in the oven for thirty minutes.

This done, transfer the pieces to another saucepan ; add the
bacon and the onions and a quart of half-cooked haricot beans ;
strain the sauce over the whole, and complete the cooking in the
oven for one hour.

Dish in a timbale or in small cocottes.

1350— IRISH STEW

Cut two lbs. of boned breast and shoulder of mutton into
pieces, as above.

Slice two lbs. of potatoes and chop four medium-sized
onions.

Take a saucepan just large enough to hold these ingredients
and the moistening; line the bottom of the utensil with a layer
of the pieces of meat, and season the latter with salt and pepper.
Upon the meat spread a litter of sliced potatoes and chopped
onions; repeat the operation, again and again, until all the
ingredients are used up, and remember to place a faggot in the
middle.

Moisten with one and one-third pint of water, and cook
gently in the oven for one and one-half hours. The potatoes
in this preparation answer the double purpose of garnish and
leason.

Dish in a timbale and serve boiling.

1351— MOUSSAKA

(i) Cut six fine egg-plants into halves, lengthwise ; cisel the
pulp somewhat deeply with the point of a small knife, and fry
them until their pulp may be easily removed. Do this with a
spoon, and put the pulp aside with the skins of the egg-plants.

(2) Peel two fair-sized egg-plants; cut them into roundels
one-third in. thick; season them, dredge them; fry them in
oil, and put them aside.

(3) Chop up the pulp withdrawn from the egg-plants, and
put it into a basin with one and one-half lbs. of very lean,
cooked mutton, chopped or cut into very small dice; two table-
spoonfuls of very finely-chopped onion, fried in butter ; a pinch
of parsley ; a piece of crushed garlic as large as a pea ; three
oz. of roughly-chopped raw mushrooms, fried in butter; two
eggs ; two tablespoonfuls of cold Espagnole sauce ; one table-
spoonful of tomato pur^e; a pinch of salt, and another of
pepper. Mix the whole well.

(4) Butter a low-bordered quart Charlotte mould ; line it all
over with the egg-plant skins, and lay these black side upper-

448 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

most. Garnish the bottom of the mould with a layer of mince-
meat, one in, thick; on this layer place a few fried roundels of
egg-plant, and continue thus with alternate layers of mince and
egg-plant. Cover the last layer of mince-meat with the remains
of the egg-plant skins, and cook in a bain-marie for one hour.

When taking the mould out of the oven, let it stand for five
minutes in order that the ingredients may settle ; turn out on
a round dish, and besprinkle the surface of the Moussaka with
chopped parsley.

1352— MUTTON PUDDING

Follow the directions given under beefsteak pudding (No.
1 1 70) exactly. The preparation is just the same, but for the
substitution of mutton for the beef.

•353— NAVARIN PRINTANIER

Heat four oz. of clarified fat in a saut^pan, and put into it
four lbs. of breast, neck and shoulder of mutton ; all three cut
into pieces weighing two and one-half oz. Fry over a very
brisk fire; season with one-third oz. of salt, a pinch of ground
pepper, and another of sugar.

The sugar settles slowly on the bottom of the saut^pan,
where it turns to caramel ; it is then dissolved by the moistening,
and thus gives the sauce the required colour.

When the meat is well fried, remove almost all the fat;
sprinkle with one and one-half oz. of flour; cook the latter
for a few minutes, and moisten with one and one-half quarts of
water or stock.

Boil, stirring the while, and add two-thirds lb. of fresh
concassed tomatoes or one-fifth pint of tomato pur^e; one
crushed clove of garlic, and a large faggot. Cover and cook
in the oven for one hour.

This done, transfer the pieces of mutton, one by one, to
another saucepan with twenty small, new onions; twenty
pieces of new trimmed carrots; twenty pieces of new turnips,
cut to the shape of long olives and tossed with butter in a
frying-pan ; twenty small, new potatoes, cut into two, and
trimmed, or whole; one-sixth pint of fresh peas, and an equal
quantity of raw French beans, cut into lozenges. Strain the
sauce over the whole; set to boil, and continue cooking slowly
in the oven for one hour; taking care from time to time to baste
the overlying vegetables with sauce.

Dish in a timbale and serve very hot.

N.B. — When put into the sauce, the vegetables cook much
less quickly than in boiling water. In the Navarin, moreover,

RELEVES AND ENTREES 449

they are cooked by means of gradual penetration; thus, by
slackening the cooking speed of the Navarin, they are cooked
to the required extent.

1354— PILAW DE MOUTON A LA TURQUE

Mutton Pilaff is, in fact, nothing but a Navarin in which
the tomatoes dominate the other ingredients ; it is flavoured with
ginger or saffron, according to circumstances, and the usual
vegetables are replaced by rice. Prepared in this way, it does
not lend itself very well to the exigencies of a restaurant service.

More often, therefore, it is treated like curried mutton ; but,
instead of serving it with rice a I'lndienne, it is dished in the
midst of a pilaff-rice border. Sometimes, too, the rice is served
separately, after the manner of a curry dish.

HOUSE LAMB.

I3S5— BARON (OR PAIR OF HIND-QUARTERS) OF LAMB

•356— DOUBLE (OR PAIR OF LEGS) OF LAMB

■357— QUARTER OF LAMB

1358— FILLET OF LAMB

I3S9— SADDLE AND NECK OF LAMB

Large joints of lamb for Relevds are cut like those of mutton.

One joint, however, should be added, which is " The
Haunch"; and this consists of one leg and half the loin
attached.

Large joints of house lamb should be poeled or roasted.
Their most suitable adjunct is either their own stock, or a
thickened, highly seasoned and clear gravy.

House Lamb Relev^s are chiefly garnished with early-season
or new vegetables ; but all the garnishes given under Mutton
Relev^s may also be served with them, provided the difference
in size be taken into account. In addition to these garnishes,
saddle of lamb admits of all the preparations given under saddle
of veal (Nos. 1181 to 1191).

1360— SELLE D'AQNEAU DE LAIT EDOUARD VII.

Completely bone the saddle from underneath, in suchwise as
to leave the skin intact ; season it inside, and place in the middle
a fine foie gras, studded with truflfles and marinaded in Marsala.

Reconstruct the saddle, and wrap it tightly in a piece of
muslin ; put it in a saucepan just large enough to hold it, on a
litter of pieces of bacon rind, cleared of all fat and blanched,

G G

450 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

Moisten, enough to cover, with the braising-Hquor of a cushion
of veal ; add thereto the Marsala used in marinading the foie
gras, and poach for about forty-five minutes.

Before withdrawing the saddle, make sure that the foie gras
is sufficiently cooked. Remove the muslin, and put the saddle
in an oval terrine a pdte just large enough to hold it. Strain
the cooking-liquor over it, without clearing the former of grease,
and set it to cool.

When the saddle is quite cold, carefully clear away the grease
that lies upon it, first by means of a spoon and then by means
of boiling water. Serve it very cold, in the terrine as it stands.

1361— CARRE D'AGNEAU BEAUCAIRE

Having trimmed the neck of lamb, as explained, brown it
in butter; surround it with eight small, Provence half-artichokes,
and cook gently in the oven. The artichokes in question have
no chokes and are very tender.

Meanwhile, peel, press, concass and season four or five toma-
toes, and fry them in butter. When they are ready, add a large
pinch of chopped tarragon to them.

Dish the tomatoes; set the neck upon them, and surround
it with the stewed half-artichokes.

1362— CARRE D'AGNEAU EN COCOTTE
A LA BONNE FEMME

Fry a shortened and well-trimmed neck of lamb, in butter.

This done, transfer it to an oval cocotte with ten small onions
browned in butter, and two medium-sized potatoes, cut into large
dice, shaped like garlic cloves, and blanched. Sprinkle the
whole with melted butter and cook gently in the oven.

Serve the preparation as it stands, in the cocotte, placing the
latter on a folded napkin.

•363— CARRE D'AGNEAU A LA BOULANGERE

Fry the neck of lamb with butter, in an earthenware dish,
and surround it with sliced onions, tossed in butter, and sliced
potatoes; both of which vegetables should be in quantities in
proportion to the size of the piece of meat. The " k la Boul-
ang^re " procedure is always the same, and was explained under
No. 1307, but allowances should always be made for the par-
ticular size and tenderness of the piece.

1364— CARRE D'AGNEAU GRILLE

Having shortened and well trimmed the neck, season it;
sprinkle it with melted butter, and grill it gently.

RELEVES AND ENTREES 451

When it is almost cooked, sprinkle it again with melted
butter and bread-crumbs, and let it acquire a golden colour
while completely cooking it.

Serve very hot with mint sauce and a suitable garnish.

1365— CARRE D'AQNEAU MIREILLE

Prepare some Anna potatoes (No. 2203) in an oval earthen-
ware dish, and add a third of the quantity of potatoes of raw,
minced artichoke-bottoms.

When the potatoes are three-parts cooked, stiffen the neck
in butter; place it on the potatoes, and complete the cooking of
the two, basting often the while with melted butter.

Send the preparation to the table on the dish that has
served in the cooking process.

1366— CARRE D'AQNEAU PRINTANIER

Prepare the following garnish : eight small onions, half-
cooked in butter; ten carrots of the size and shape of garlic
cloves, cooked in consomm^ and glazed; and ten turnips of
the same shape and size, similarly treated.

Put these vegetables into a cocotte with three tablespoonfuls
of fresh peas; the same quantity of raw, French beans, cut into
lozenge form ; two or three tablespoonfuls of good and very
clear stock, and complete the cooking of the whole.

Meanwhile, poele the neck of lamb, which should have been
shortened and trimmed in the usual way. Dish the neck of
lamb and serve the vegetables in the cocotte.

1367— CARRE D'AQNEAU SOUBISE

Having shortened and trimmed the neck of lamb, stiffen it
in butter; surround it with one-half lb. of finely-minced and
well-blanched onions, and complete the cooking of both by
stewing.

This done, transfer the neck to a dish and keep it hot. Add
one-quarter pint of boiling Bechamel sauce to the onions, and
rub them quickly through tammy or a fine sieve. Heat this
Soubise; finish it with one and one-half oz. of butter, and pour
it over the neck.

Border the dish with a thread of rather light meat glaze,
and serve.

1368— CARR6 D'AQNEAU A LA T05CANE

Shorten the neck of lamb ; suppress the cartilaginous portions
and stiffen it in butter. Garnish the bottom of an oval earthen-
ware dish, of the same size as the neck, with a layer of Anna
potatoes (No. 2203). Set the neck on this layer, and cover it

G G 2

452 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

over with a second layer of the same potato preparation.
Sprinkle with grated Parmesan ; cook in the oven as for Anna
potatoes, and take care that the top be so well set as to prevent
any of the juices of the joint from exuding and depositing on
the bottom of the dish.

Serve the dish as it stands.

1369— LEG AND SHOULDER OF LAMB

All the recipes given under Haunch and Double (pair of
legs), may be applied to the legs and shoulders of house lamb.

The shoulders are often grilled, the operation being effected
over a moderate lire after the joints have been incised lattice-
fashion, and the same applies to the breast. The " k la
Boulangere " treatment (No. 1307) admirably suits the legs and
shoulders of house lamb.

1370— CUTLETS

According to custom, lamb cutlets are usually served like
" Noisettes," i.e., two are allowed for each person.

As a rule, when they are to be grilled, they are previously
dipped in melted butter and sprinkled with fine bread-crumbs.

When they are to be sauted they are treated a I'anglaise (egg
and bread-crumbs) except when, subject to their mode of pre-
paration, they have to be served plain, or stuffed.

1371— c6telettes d'aqneau de lait a la buloz

Prepare : — (i) a rizotto (No. 2238) with truffles, in propor-
tion to the number of cutlets ; (2) some very reduced Bechamel
sauce, combined with one-half oz. of grated Parmesan per one-
fifth pint of the sauce, and allowing one small tablespoonful of it
for each cutlet.

Half-grill the cutlets; dry them, and cover them, on both
sides, with the reduced sauce. As soon as the cutlets have
received their coat of sauce, dip them, one by one, into beaten
egg (anglaise) ; roll them in very fine bread-crumbs mixed with
grated Parmesan. Thoroughly press this coating of bread-
crumbs with the flat of a knife, that it may adhere well to the
egg and produce a crust at the close of the operation. This
done, set the cutlets in a saut^pan of very hot, clarified butter,
and brown them on both sides.

Dish the rizotto in a very even layer; set the cutlets in a
circle on the rice, and fix a frill to the bone of each.

1372— COTELETTES D'AQNEAU DE LAIT
MAR^CHALE

Treat the cutlets a I'anglaise, and cook them in clarified
butter.

Dish them in a circle, with a fine slice of truffle upon each ;

RELEVES AND ENTREES 453

and, in their midst, set a nice iieap of asparagus-heads cohered
with butter.

•373— COTELETTES D'AQNEAU DE LAIT

MILANAISE

Treat the cutlets a I'anglaise, but add to the bread-crumbs
the quarter of their weight of grated Parmesan.

Cook the cutlets in clarified butter. Dish them in a circle,
and, in their midst, arrange a garnish "k la milanaise " (see
C6te de Vau k la Milanaise," No. 1258.)

1374— COTELETTES D'AQNEAU DE LAIT

MORLAND

Slightly flatten the cutlets, dip them in beaten egg, and roll
them in finely-chopped truffle, which in this case answers the
purpose of bread-crumbs. Press the truffle with the flat of a
knife, that it may thoroughly combine with the egg, and cook
the cutlets in clarified butter. Dish them in a circle; garnish
the centre of the dish with a mushroom pur^e (No. 2059), ^"d
surround the cutlets with a thread of buttered meat glaze.

1375— COTELETTES D'AQNEAU DE LAIT

NAVARRAISE

For twelve cutlets, make a preparation consisting of four
oz. of ham, four oz. of cooked mushrooms, and one-half oz. of
chopped, red capsicums ; the whole being cohered by means of
a very reduced Bechamel sauce, flavoured with truffle essence.

Grill the cutlets on one side only, and garnish them on their
grilled side with a tablespoonful of the above preparation, which
should be shaped like a dome upon them.

Set the cutlets upon a tray as soon as they are garnished;
sprinkle the surface of the preparation, covering them with
grated cheese and melted butter, and place them in the oven,
that their cooking may be completed and the gratin formed.
Meanwhile, toss twelve seasoned half-tomatoes in oil. Dish
these tomatoes in a circle; set a cutlet upon each, and border
with a thread of tomato sauce.

1376— COTELETTES D'AQNEAU DE LAIT

NELSON

Grill the cutlets, and, at the same time, prepare as many
bread-crumb croutons as there a,re cutlets, and of exactly the
same shape as the latter. Fry the croutons in butter, and coat
them with foie-gras purde.

Place a grilled cutlet on each coated crouton, and a slice
of truffle on the kernel of each cutlet. Now, by means of a

454 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

piping-bag, fitted with an even pipe, cover the cutlets with some
souffld au Parmesan (No. 2295A) ; dish them in a circle, and
put them in the oven for five minutes, that the souffle may
poach.

After withdrawing them from the oven, garnish the centre
of the dish with a heap of asparagus-heads, cohered with butter.

1377— COTE LETTES D'AQNEAU DE LAIT FARCIES
A LA PERIQUEUX

Cook the cutlets in butter on one side only, and cool them
under slight pressure.

Garnish the cooked side of each with a tablespoonful of
forcemeat with butter (No. 193), which should have received a
copious addition of chopped truffles. Shape this forcemeat
dome-fashion, by means of the flat of a small knife, dipped in
tepid water, and set the cutlets, one by one, on a tray. Now
put them in the front of the oven for seven or eight minutes
that the forcemeat may be poached.

Dish them in a circle, and pour a P^rigueux sauce in their
midst.

1378— EPIC RAMMES D'AQNEAU

A lamb "epigram" consists of a cutlet, and a piece of
braised breast, cooled under slight pressure and cut to the shape
of a heart of the same size as the cutlets. The cutlets and the
pieces of breast must be treated a I'anglaise, and sauted or
grilled according to circumstance.

Epigrams should be dished in a circle, the cutlets and the
pieces being alternated.

They are usually garnished with braised chicory, or niace-
doines of early-season vegetables.

1379— RIS D'AQNEAU

Lamb sweetbreads are, according to circumstances, either
used as the principal constituent of various preparations, or they
answer the purpose of a garnish.

Due allowance having been made for their particular size,
they may be treated after the same manner as veal sweetbreads ;
that is to say, once they have been cleared of blood, they are
blanched and braised according to the nature of the selected
mode of preparation.

If they are to form part of a large garnish, cohered by means
of a brown sauce, they are braised brown and glazed. If they
stand as an adjunct to poached fowl, they may be either studded
or left plain, and braised white.

Apart from their two uses as principal and garnishing con-

RELEVES AND ENTREES 455

stituents, the undermentioned methods of preparation, explained
in the various preceding series, may be applied to them ; viz. : —
Attereaux, Brochettes, Croustades, Pate chaud, Vol au vent,
&c.

1380— SAUTE D'AQNEAU PRINTANIER

Prepare the following garnish : — Twenty new carrots, cut to
the shape of large olives, cooked in consomm6 and glazed;
twenty pieces of turnip, similarly treated; fifteen small, new
onions, cooked in butter; twenty very small new potatoes,
cooked in butter (or a I'anglaise if desired) ; three tablespoonfuls
of peas; the same quantity of French beans cut into lozenge-
form, and an equal quantity of small flageolet beans. The
three last vegetables should be cooked d I'anglaise, and kept
rather firm.

Cut two lbs. of shoulder and breast of lamb into pieces
weighing two oz., and completely cook them in butter without
any moistening.

This done, transfer them to a dish. Swill the saucepan with
three tablespoonfuls of water; add five tablespoonfuls of pale
meat glaze; heat without boiling, and finish with two and one-
half oz. of butter.

Put the pieces of lamb and the vegetables into this sauce,
and gently rock the saucepan, that all the ingredients may par-
take of the sauce.

Serve in a hot timbale.

1381— PILAW D'AQNEAU

Proceed exactly as explained under " Pilaw de Mouton "
(No. 1354), only bear in mind that the time allowed for cooking
should be proportionately shortened in view of the greater ten-
derness of lamb's meat.

1382— CURRIE D'AQNEAU

Proceed as for "Currie de Mouton," after duly allowing,
as above, for the greater tenderness of the meat.

456 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

PORK

Releves and Entrees.

1383— FRESH LEG OF PORK
1384— FRESH PORK FILLETS
1385— FRESH NECK OF PORK

Relev^s of fresh pork are only served at family and bourgeois
meals. They are always roasts and allow of all the dry or fresh
vegetable garnishes, as well as the various vegetable purees, and
the pastes, such as macaroni, noodles, polenta, gnochi, &c. I
shall, therefore, give only a few recipes, and shall select Fresh
Neck of Pork as the typical joint.

1386— FRESH NECK OF PORK A LA CHOUCROCJTE

Roast the neck of pork and withdraw it from the oven a few
minutes before it is done.

Keep it in the stove for an hour, that its cooking may be
completed gently; but remember, that if a stove is not avail-
able, the cooking of the piece should be well finished in the
oven ; for pork is indigestible when it is not thoroughly well
cooked.

Meanwhile, prepare a garnish of sauerkraut (No. 2097), and,
during the last hour of its cooking, sprinkle it frequently with
the fat of the neck.

Dish the neck ; clear the sauerkraut of any superfluous fat,
and set it round the piece of meat in spoonfuls ; slightly pressing
it in so doing.

I387^FRESH NECK OF PORK WITH BRUSSELS SPROUTS

Roast the neck of pork. Three-parts cook the Brussels
sprouts; completely drain them, and put them round the piece
of meat, that they may complete their cooking in its gravy and
fat, being frequently basted the while.

For this preparation it is well to roast the neck in an earthen-
ware dish, in which it may be served with its garnish — a much
better plan than that of transferring it to another dish.

1388— FRESH NECK OF PORK WITH RED CABBAGE
A LA FLAMANDE

Roast the neck of pork ; dish it and surround it with a
garnish of red cabbages, prepared a la Flamande (No. 2097).

RELEVES AND ENTREES 457

Sprinkle the garnish of vegetables with the gravy of the
joint, three-parts cleared of grease.

1389— FRESH NECK OF PORK WITH STEWED APPLES

Roast the neck of pork and see that it is well done.

Meanwhile, peel and mince one lb. of apples; put them in
a saucepan with one oz. of sugar and a few tablespoonfuls of
water; seal the lid of the saucepan well down, so as to con-
centrate the steam inside, and cook quickly. When about to
serve, thoroughly work the apple pur6e with a wire whisk, in
order to smooth it. Dish the neck with its gravy, three-parts
cleared of grease, and serve the apple pur6e separately in a
timbale.

i39o^FRESH NECK OF PORK A LA SOISSONNAISE

Roast the neck on a dish that may be sent to the table.

When it is three-parts done, set one quart of cooked and
well-drained haricot beans round it, and complete the cooking
gently. Serve the dish as it stands.

1391— BOILED SALTED PORK A L'ANQLAISE

Cook plainly in water three lbs. of shoulder, breast, or
gammon of bacon, and add thereto a garnish of vegetables as
for boiled beef, and six parsnips.

Serve the vegetables round the piece of meat, and send a
pease-pudding (prepared as directed below) separately.

Pease-pudding : put one lb. of a pur^e of yellow or green,
split peas into a basin, and mix therewith three oz. of melted
or softened butter, three eggs, a pinch of salt, another of pepper,
and a little nutmeg. Pour this puree into a pudding basin, and
poach it in steam or in a bain-marie.

This preparation may also be put into a buttered and flour-
dusted napkin ; in which case, close the napkin up purse-fashion,
tying it up securely with string, and cook the pudding in the
same stewpan with the pork. This procedure is simpler than
the first and quite as good.

Very often a pur^e prepared from split, yellow or green peas,
is used instead of the pudding given above.

1392— PORK PIE

Completely line the bottom and sides of a pie-dish with thin
slices of raw ham, and prepare, for a medium-sized dish : — (i)
one and one-half lbs. of fresh pork in collops, seasoned with salt
and pepper, and sprinkle with two tablespoonfuls of dry
Puxelles (No. 223), a pinch of parsley and another of chopped

458 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

sage ; (2) one and one-half lbs. of raw, sliced potatoes, and one
large, chopped onion.

Garnish the bottom of the dish with a litter of collops ; cover
with potatoes and onions; spread another litter of collops, and
begin again in the same order. Add one-quarter pint of water;
cover with a layer of fine paste or puff-paste trimmings, which
should be well sealed down round the edges; gild with beaten
egg ; streak the paste with the prongs of a fork ; make a slit in
the centre of the covering of paste for the escape of steam, and
bake in a moderate oven for about two hours.

Fresh-pork Cutlets.

1393— PRESH- PORK CUTLET5 A LA CHARCUTIERE

Season the cutlets; dip them in melted butter, and sprinkle
them with fine raspings. Grill them gently, and baste them
from time to time.

Dish them in a circle; pour a Charcuti^re sauce in their
midst, and serve a timbale of potato puree separately.

Charcutiere sauce for eight or ten cutlets : prepare one pint
of Robert sauce (No. 52) and mix with it, just before dishing
up, two oz. of gherkins, cut in short julienne fashion or minced.

1394— FRESH = PORK CUTLETS A LA FLAMANDE

Season the cutlets, and fry them on both sides in butter
or fat.

Meanwhile, peel and slice some eating apples, allowing three
oz. of the latter for each cutlet, and put them in an earthenware
dish. Set upon them the half-fried cutlets; sprinkle with fat,
and complete their cooking, as well as that of the apples, in the
oven.

Serve the dish as it stands.

1395— c6tes de porc frais a la milanaise

Treat the cutlets a I'anglaise, but remember to add one quart
of grated Parmesan to the bread-crumbs. Cook them gently in
butter.

Dish in a circle; set a milanaise garnish (No. 1258) in the
centre, and serve a tomato sauce separately.

1396— FRESH-PORK CUTLETS WITH PIQUANTE
OR ROBERT SAUCE

Season and grill or saute the cutlets. Dish them in a circle,
with Piquante or Robert sauce in their midst.

N.B. — (i) Cutlets accompanied by either of the two above-

RELEVES AND ENTREES 459

mentioned sauces, may be treated with melted butter and bread-
crumbs and grilled or sauted; but, in this case, the sauce should
be served separately.

(2) For cutlets with Piquante sauce, border the dish on which
they are served with gherkins, and send the sauce either separ-
ately or on the dish.

(3) All the garnishes given under fresh neck of pork may
accompany grilled or sauted pork cutlets.

1397— 5UCKINQ PIQ

Stuffed or not stuffed, sucking pigs are always roasted whole,
and the essential point of the procedure is that they should be
just done when their skin is crisp and golden.

While cooking, they should be frequently basted with oil;
the latter being used in preference to any other fatty substance
owing to the greater crispness it gives to the skin of the sucking
pig-

Serve a sauceboat of good gravy at the same time.

1398— ROAST STUFFED SUCKING PIQ A L'ANQLAISE

For a sucking pig of medium weight, prepare the following
forcemeat : — Cook three lbs. of large onions with their skins,
and let them cool. This done, peel and finely chop them, and
put them in a basin with one lb. of the chopped fat of kidney
of beef, one lb. of soaked and well-pressed bread-crumb, four
oz. of parboiled and chopped sage, two eggs, one oz. of salt,
a pinch of pepper and a little nutmeg.

Mix the whole well, and put this stuffing inside the sucking
pig. Sew up the latter's belly ; put it on the spit, and roast as
directed above.

Serve separately, either a timbale of apple puree or of mashed
potatoes, combined with four oz. per lb. of selected raisins,
washed and swelled in tepid water.

1399— ZAMPINO DE MODfiNE

Zampino, or stuffed leg of pork, is a product of Italian
pork-butchery.

It is cooked like a ham, after having been tied in a napkin
lest its skin burst.

Served hot, it is accompanied by a Madeira or tomato sauce,
a garnish of boiled, braised, or gratined cabbages; of French

beans, or of potato pur^e.

1400— ZAMPINO FROID

Zampino is served cold, alone or mixed with other meats;
but it is used more particularly as a hors-d'oeuvre. For this
purpose, cut it into the thinnest possible slices.

460 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

1401— OREILLES A LA ROUENNAISE

After having singed and well cleaned the inside of the pig's
ears, cook them in water, salted to the extent of one-third oz.
of salt per quart, together with a garnish of vegetables as for
pot-au-feu. This done, cut them across in suchwise as to have
the end where the flesh is thickest on one side, and the thinnest
end on the other side of the strips.

Chop up the thick portion ; cut the other into collops, and put
the whole into a saucepan with one-quarter pint of half-glaze
with Madeira.

Cook gently for thirty minutes. This done, add to the
minced ears, one and one-half lbs. of sausage meat and a pinch
of chopped parsley. Divide up the whole into portions, weighing
three oz ; wrap each portion in a piece of pig's caul, insert a
collop of ear into the wrapping, and give the latter the shape of
ordinary crepinettes. Grill gently, until the cooking is three-
parts done ; sprinkle with butter and raspings, and complete the
cooking of the crepinettes, colouring them in so doing.

Dish in a circle, and serve a Madeira sauce at the same time.

1402— OREILLES A LA SAINTE MENEHOULD

Cook the ears as explained above, and let them cool.

Cut them in two, lengthwise ; coat them with mustard ;
sprinkle them with melted butter and raspings, and grill them
gently.

Ears are usually served plain, but they may be accompanied
by apple sauce.

1403— PIEDS DE PORC TRUFF16S

Truffled pig's trotters may be bought already prepared ; all
that remains to be done, therefore, is to grill them.

Sprinkle them with melted butter; grill them very gently,
basting them from time to time the while, and serve them with a
P^rigueux sauce.

1404— PIEDS DE PORC PAN^S

Sprinkle the pig's trotters copiously with melted butter, and
put them on the grill, which should be very hot.

Grill them very gently, turning them with care; and serve
them plain, or with a tomato puree separately.

RELEVES AND ENTREES 461

BOUDINS.

1405— BOUDIN BLANC ORDINAIRE

Chop and afterwards pound one-half lb. of very lean fresh
pork, and three-quarters lb. of fat fresh bacon. Add one and
one-half oz. of foie gras, and rub through a fine sieve.

Put this forcemeat into a basin, and finish it with two fresh
eggs; one and one-half oz. of chopped onion, cooked in butter
without colouration ; one-sixth pint of thick cream ; one-half oz.
of salt, a pinch of white pepper, and a little nutmeg.

Mix the whole well ; put it into the gut, without overfilling
the latter, and tie round with string at regular intervals. Now
set the boudins on a willow lattice, and plunge them into a
receptacle full of boiling water. From this moment keep the
water at 203° F., and let the boudins poach for twelve minutes.
This done, withdraw them, and let them cool.

Before serving them, grill them very gently, and, as a pre-
cautionary measure, wrap them in buttered paper. Do not
cisel them, but prick them with a pin.

Serve a purc^e of potatoes with cream at the same time.

1406— BOUDINS BLANCS DE VOLAILLE

Pound separately one lb. of raw chicken fillets and three-
quarters lb. of fresh fat bacon.

Combine the two products in the mortar; pound again with
the view of thoroughly mixing them, and add three oz. of
chopped onion, cooked in butter without colouration, together
with a little thyme and bay; one-half oz. of salt, a pinch of
white pepper, and a little nutmeg.

Mix the whole well, and add four more eggs, one by one,
working the forcemeat vigorously the while with the pestle.

Rub through a fine sieve ; return the forcemeat to the mortar,
and add thereto, little by little, one pint of boiled and very
cold milk.

Put the forcemeat into the gut; poach it in the bain-marie,
and set it to grill, observing the same precautions as in the
preceding recipe.

Serve a purde of potatoes with cream at the same time as the
boudins.

1407— BOUDINS NOIRS

Make the following preparation, putting the various in-
gredients into a basin : — One lb. of very fresh pork fat, cut into
large dice, and half-melted; one sixth pint of thick cream; two
eggs; six oz. of chopped onions, cooked in lard without coloura-

462 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

tion ; two-thirds oz. of salt, a pinch of pepper, and a little spice;
a pinch of wild-thyme leaves, and a leaf of bay, both chopped.

Mix the whole well, and put it into the gut without over-
filling it, for it should be borne in mind that the preparation
swells in poaching.

Set the boudins on willow lattices or baskets; plunge them
into boiling water, and, from that time, keep the latter at
203° F.

Let them poach for twenty minutes, and remember to prick
all those that, by rising to the surface, show they contain air,
^\hich might burst their skins. When about to serve them,
cisel them on both sides, and grill them very gently.

They are generally accompanied by a potato purde with
cream.

1408— BOUDINS NOIRS A L'ANGLAISE

Have ready the same preparation as for black boudins, given
above, and add to it three-quarters lb. of rice, cooked in con-
somm6 and kept somewhat firm. Poach as before, and leave to
cool. Cisel the boudins, and grill them over a moderate fire.

Serve very hot with an apple purde.

1409— BOUDINS NOIRS A LA FLAMANDE

Have ready the same preparation as for black boudins, and
add to it three oz. of moist sugar, two oz. of raisins, and the
same quantity of currants, washed and swelled in lukewarm
water.

Put the preparation into the gut, and poach in the usual
way.

When about to serve, grill these boudins gently, after the
manner of black boudins, and send them to the table with a
sugared apple sauce.

Crepinettes and Sausages.
1410— CREPINETTES TRUFFEES

Add to two lbs. of very good sausage-meat, four oz. of
chopped truffles, and two tablespoonfuls of truffles cooking-
liquor. Mix the whole well ; divide into portions weighing two
and one-half oz., and wrap each portion in a square of pig's
caul. Shape the crepinettes thus formed rectangularly.
Sprinkle with melted butter, and grill gently.

Dish them in a circle ; pour a Perigueux sauce in their midst,
and serve a potato purde with cream separately.

RELEVES AND ENTREES 463

1411— CR^PINETTES A LA CENDRILLON

Prepare the crepinettes as above; wrap them in a double
sheet of buttered paper ; over them set a heap of cinders covered
with burning embers, and keep the latter alive for a space of
twenty minutes, when the cooking operation should be com-
pleted.

Formerly, the above was the mode of procedure, but now-
adays the crepinettes are merely enveloped, each in an oval
layer of paste. They are then gilded, their tops are streaked,
and, after having been laid on a tray, they are baked in a warm
oven for twenty minutes.

This done, they are dished on a napkin.

1412— SAUCISSES ANQLAISES

The most well-known of English sausages are those of
Cambridge.

They are cooked like the French kind, and they are often
served at breakfasts as an adjunct to bacon. Sometimes, too,
they serve as a garnish to roast fowls, young turkeys, &c.

Their seasoning is often excessive.

1413— SAUCI5SES AU VIN BLANC

First Method. — Put the sausages in a well-buttered saut^-
pan ; poach them gently in the oven, and dish them on thin
crusts of bread fried in butter.

For twelve sausages, swill the saut^pan with one-sixth pint
of white wine; reduce this to half; add one-sixth pint of half-
glaze sauce; boil for a few minutes, and finish, away from the
fire, with one and one-half oz. of butter. Pour this sauce over
the sausages.

Second Method. — Stiffen the sausages in butter; add one-
third pint of w^hite wine, and complete their poaching. Set
them on fried crusts; reduce the wine by two-thirds, and add
thereto the yolk of one egg, a few drops of lemon juice, two
tablespoonfuls of pale melted meat-glaze, and three oz. of
butter. Pour the sauce over the sausages.

14 14— SAUCISSES DE FRANCFORT ET DE STRASBOURG

Plunge the sausages into a saucepanful of boiling water, and
then poach them for no more than ten minutes ; should they
be allowed to cook for a longer time, they would only lose their
quality.

They may be served with a hors-d'oeuvre dish of grated
horse-radish, and an apple sauce separately; but their proper
adjunct is braised sauerkraut.

464 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

Ham.

However deservedly pork may be praised, it could never
have been included among the preparations of first-class cookery
(except subsidiarily) had it not been for the culinary value of
hams.

With the latter it triumphs, and, be they of Bayonne or
York, of Prague or Westphalia, no other joints enjoy more
favour than these as Relevds.

Though it is somewhat difficult to decide which one of the
various kinds of ham should be adopted, in my opinion that
of Bohemia, known as Prague ham, is best for a warm dish,
and that of York for a cold dish.

The latter is also excellent when served hot, but, even so,
for this purpose it is inferior to the Prague kind, the delicacy
of which is incomparable.

Still, York ham ranks first in the opinion of many, for it
should be remembered that England has no rival in the pre-
paration of seasoned pork, and her famous bacon, the renown
of which is enormous, constitutes one of the greatest discoveries
in the science of gastronomy.

1415— HOT HAM— Its Preparation

York ham is the kind chiefly used.

After having soaked it in cold water for six hours, brush
it and remove the pelvic bone; put it into a stewpan of cold
water, and set to boil. This done, keep the water just simmer-
ing, that the ham may cook after the poaching method.

There is no need of any seasoning or aromatic garnish. As
often as possible, leave the ham to cool in its cooking-liquor.
If the ham is to be braised, take it out of the water thirty
minutes before it is cooked. Skin it ; clear it of any superfluous
fat, and put it in a braising-pan, just large enough to hold it,
with two-thirds pint of some such wine as Madeira, Port,
Xeres, Chypre, &c. Select the wine in accordance with the
title of the dish on the menu.

Having thoroughly sealed down the lid of the pan, put it
in the oven, and continue the cooking of the ham gently for
one hour, turning it over from time to time during the opera-
tion. If it have to reach the table whole, glaze it at the last
moment.

Its usual adjunct is a light and highly seasoned half-glaze
sauce, combined with some of the braising-liquor, cleared of all
grease.

RELEVES AND ENTREES 465

1416— JAMBON A LA CHANOINESSE

Having poached the ham as explained above, braise it in
white wine, adding thereto three oz. of mushroom parings.

Dish and send separately a garnish of large, fresh noodles,
cohered with butter and a Soubise pur^e, and completed with
a julienne of truffles.

Serve separately a half-glaze sauce, combined with the brais-
ing-liquor, cleared of all grease and reduced.

1417— JAMBON A LA CHOUCROClTE

Completely cook the ham by poaching; skin and trim it.

If served whole, send, separately, some braised sauerkraut
and potatoes, freshly cooked a I'anglaise. Serve a half-glaze
sauce with Rhine wine at the same time.

If served already carved, arrange the slices in a circle on a
round dish; put the sauerkraut in their midst, and border with
the potatoes.

Serve, separately, the same sauce as before.

14 18— JAMBON A LA MAILLOT

Poach the ham ; braise it, and glaze it at the last moment.
Set it on a long dish, and surround it with the following
garnish, arranged in alternate heaps: — Carrots and turnips,
cut to the shape of large, elongated olives, cooked separately in
consomm^, and glazed; small onions cooked in butter; braised
and trimmed half-lettuces ; peas and French beans cohered with
butter separately.

Serve apart a thickened gravy combined with some of the
braising-liquor, cleared of all grease.

1419— JAMBON A LA PRAGUE SOUS LA CENDRE

Poach the ham; drain it on a dish, and let it half-cool.
Now remove the skin and all the black, outside parts. Prepare
a piece of patty paste large enough to enclose the ham. Be-
sprinkle its surface with powdered sugar; glaze quickly at the
salamander, and place the ham (glazed side undermost) on the
layer of paste.

Draw the ends of the paste towards each other ; seal them
together, with the help of a little moisture, in such wise as to
enclose the ham completely ; turn the latter over, and put it on
a tray with the sealed side of the paste lying underneath. Gild
and streak, make a slit in the middle of the paste for the escape
of steam, and put the joint in the oven.

Leave it there until the paste is dry and well coloured. After
taking the ham out of the oven, inject into it, through a pre-

H H

466 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

pared hole, a large wineglassful of Port wine or Sherry. Stop
up the hole with a little pellet of paste; dish, and serve imme-
diately.

Serve at the same time a garnish of Gnochi, spinach, or
Souffle au Parmesan (No. 2295A).

The best adjunct to Prague ham is a very light glaze pre-
pared with Port wine, and buttered at the last minute.

1419a— JAMBON DE PRAGUE A LA METTERNICH

Prepare a ham " sous la cendre " as described above.

Send to the table with it as many fine collops of foie-gras,
tossed in butter and each covered with a nice slice of truffle, as
there are diners. Send also a timbale of asparagus-heads.

The waiter in charge then puts a slice of ham, a collop of
foie-gras, and a tablespoonful of asparagus-heads on each plate
and serves.

The sauce should be a Madeira flavoured with truffle essence.

1419b— JAMBON DE PRAGUE A LA NORFOLK

Prepare a ham as in No. 1419. Serve each slice of it with
one collop of braised veal sweetbread and one tablespoonful of
fresh peas a la faysanne.

Send as an adjunct the braising-liquor of the veal sweet-
bread.

1420— VARIOUS GARNISHES FOR BRAISED HAM

The garnishes best suited to ham relev^s are : —

Spinach; new broad beans; braised lettuce; endives; fresh
peas a la paysanne.

Noodles; Spaghetti; various Macaronis; Gnochi; Purees of
fresh beans, broad beans.

The most usual accompanying sauce is half-glaze with
Madeira.

1421— JAMBON SOUFFL6

This is a variety of the ham souffles given hereafter. The
preparation used is the same, and it may be made either from
raw or from cooked ham.

After having completely boned it, but for the end bone,
which must be kept, cook the ham, and cool it.

Now cut it horizontally, one-half inch above its bone, from
the extremity of the end bone to the head of the latter. At the
last-mentioned point, make a vertical incision meeting and end-
ing at the first; remove the cushion of ham, which should by
now be quite separated from the rest of the joint, and put aside
for some future purpose.

RELEVES AND ENTREES 467

All that remains of the ham, therefore, is a thick piece
adhering to the end-bone. Carefully trim this piece, and sur-
round it with a strong band of buttered paper, tied on by means
of string, the purpose of which is to hold in the souffle.

This done, put a sufficient quantity of souffle de Jambon
(described hereafter) on the remaining meat of the ham to recon-
struct it entirely. Smooth the surface of the preparation with
the flat of a knife (dipped in cold water), and so finish off the
contour of the ham. Decorate according to fancy; place the
dish containing the ham on a saucepanful of boiling water, and
put the two in the oven with the view of obtaining the maximum
amount of steam, which latter helps to poach the souffle. This
scuffled ham may be poached just as well in a steamer.

When the preparation is properly poached, remove the band
of paper ; dish the ham, and send one of the garnishes or sauces
given for braised ham separately.

1422— SOUFFLES AU JAMBON

Ham souffles are prepared after two recipes; in the first,
cooked ham is used, and in the second the ham is raw. This
last procedure is derived from mousseline forcemeat, and, in-
asmuch as the preparation resulting from it is less flimsy than
that of the first, it is preferred when a large number of people
have to be served.

1423— THE PREPARATION OF THE SOUFFLlS

WITH COOKED HAM

Finely pound one lb. of lean, cooked ham, and add thereto,
one after the other, three tablespoonfuls of very cold Bechamel
sauce. Rub through a fine sieve ; put the resulting pur^e into a
saut^pan, and finish with one-quarter pint of very creamy and
boiling Bechamel sauce, flavoured with ham essence ; four egg-
yolks, and the whites of six eggs, beaten to a stiff froth.

This preparation may be combined with three oz. of grated
Parmesan, and the two flavours will be found to blend very
agreeably.

Prepared in this way, it is particularly well suited to the
"Jambon Souffle," the recipe whereof is given above
(No. 1421).

1424— THE PREPARATION OF THE SOUFFLE

WITH RAW HAM

Following the quantities given under " Farce mousseline "
(No. 195), make the souffle preparation, and add thereto four

H H 2

468 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

tablespoonfuls of reduced and very cold Bechamel sauce per
lb. of raw ham.

Keep the forcemeat somewhat stiff, and finish it with the
whites of four eggs, beaten to a stiff froth, per lb. of ham.

1425— S0UFFL6 DE JAMBON ALEXANDRA

Make the souffle preparation after one of the methods given
above. Spread it in layers in a buttered timbale, alternating
the layers of souffle with others of asparagus-heads cohered with
butter. Smooth the surface to the shape of a dome; decorate
with a fine slice of truffle, and cook in a moderate oven, of a
temperature suited to this kind of preparation. Serve the
souffle as soon as it is ready. If it be small, spread only one
layer of asparagus-heads in the middle of it.

If it be large, spread two or three layers of asparagus-heads.

1426— SOUFFLE DE JAMBON CARMEN

Add to the selected one of the two souffle preparations —
either will do — for one lb. of ham, the pur^e of one-half lb.
of pressed tomatoes, cooked in butter with one half-capsicum,
rubbed through a sieve and very much reduced.

Dish the souffle in a buttered timbale; sprinkle the surface
with a pinch of red capsicum, cut in fine julienne fashion, and
cook as described above.

1427— S0UFFL6 DE JAMBON GASTRONOME

Dish the selected ham souffle preparation in layers in a
buttered timbale, and between each layer of it spread a litter of
noodles, tossed in butter.

Sprinkle the surface with chopped truffles; set a ball of
truffle well in the centre of the souffle, and cook in the usual
way.

1428— SOUFFLE DE JAMBON MILANAISE

Dish the ham souffle preparation in a buttered timbale, and
spread it in alternate layers with a fine garnish a la Milanaise
(No. 1258).

Deck the surface with small pieces of poached macaroni,
fried in butter ; sprinkle with grated cheese, and cook the souffle
in a moderate oven.

1429— SOUFFLE DE JAMBON PERIQOURDINE

Dish the souffle preparation in layers in a buttered timbale,
and between each layer spread a litter of truffle slices. Be-
sprinkle the surface with chopped truffles, and cook the
souffle in the usual way.

RELEVES AND ENTREES 469

1430— MOUSSES ET MOUSSELINES
CHAUDES DE JAMBON

Mousses and Mousselines are made from the same prepara-
tion as " Farce mousseline de jambon," in pursuance of the
general principles given under No. 195.

The need of differentiating the terms arises from the fact
that mousses are poached in a mould the contents of which are
sufficient for a number of people, whereas mousselines are spoon-
moulded quenelles, shaped like eggs.

In the preparation of " Farce mousseline de jambon " it is
necessary to allow, in the salt seasoning, for the amouiit of
salting the ham has already received.

If the meat of the ham is not very red, the colour oi the
forcemeat may be intensified by means of a little vegetable
red, in order that it may be of a distinct pink shade.

1431— TREATMENT AND ACCOMPANIMENT

OF HAM MOUSSE

Put the forcemeat in a deep border-mould, somewhat like a
Charlotte, and poach it under cover in a bain-marie.

That the poaching may be regular, keep in water at a con-
stant temperature of 205° or 208° Fahrenheit, and allow forty-
five minutes for the operation in the case of a mousse made in
a quart mould.

The preparation is seen to be cooked when it swells and
rises in the mould.

As soon as this occurs, withdraw the latter from the bain-
marie; let it stand for five minutes, that its contents may settle;
turn it upside-down on a dish, and wait two minutes before
removing the mould. In any case, do not take off the mould
until the liquid which has drained frpm it, all round the dish,
has been soaked up. Ham mousses are chiefly accompanied
by Supreme sauce, or Velout^s with curry or paprika; some-
times, too, a highly-seasoned and buttered half-glaze sauce,
with Madeira, Port, or Marsala may be used. The most suit-
able garnishes for ham mousses are those I have already given
for Ham.

1432— TREATMENT AND POACHING
OF HAM MOUSSELINES

As I have already stated, mousselines, like quenelles, are
moulded with a spoon.

They may also be laid, by means of a piping-bag, on the
bottom of the well-buttered saut^pan in which they are to be
poached; they are shaped like meringues, even or grooved,

470 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

and, in either case, they are decorated with lozenges, crescents,
or discs, &c., of ham or truffle.

Having carried out the selected method of preparation,
cover them with boiling water, salted to the extent of one-
third oz. per quart, and poach them for from eighteen to twenty
minutes, taking care to keep the water at a constant temperature
of 208° F. These mousselines may also be poached dry in a
steamer or in a drying stove.

1433— MOUSSELINES DE JAMBON ALEXANDRA

Decorate the mousselines, prepared according to one of the
two methods above described, with one lozenge of ham and
another of truffle. Poach them ; drain them well, and dish
them in the form of a crown. Cover them with an Allemande
sauce, flavoured with ham essence, and combined with two oz.
of grated Parmesan per pint of the sauce, and glaze quickly.

After taking the mousselines out of the oven, set in their
midst a heap of asparagus-heads, cohered with butter.

1434— MOUSSELINES DE JAMBON A LA FLORENTINE

Spread a layer of shredded spinach, fried in butter, on a
dish.

Upon it set the poached and well-drained m,ousselines ; cover
them with the same sauce as that prescribed for the " Mousse-
lines Alexandra," and glaze them quickly.

'435— MOUSSELINES DE JAMBON A LA HONQROISE

Poach the mousselines, the forcemeat of which must be
flavoured with paprika. Drain them; dish them in a circle;
cover them with Hongroise sauce, and glaze them quickly.

On withdrawing the dish from the oven, set a fine heap of
baked cauliflowers with cheese in the middle of it.

1436— MOUSSELINES DE JAMBON AUX PETITS POIS

Proceed exactly as described under No. 1433, but substitute
for the asparagus-heads a garnish of very small peas cohered
with butter.

Cold Ham.

1437— JAMBON FROID A LA GELEE

When ham is to be dished cold, it should, if possible, be
allowed to cool in its cooking-liquor, ej^cept when it has to be
boned. In the latter case, take it out as soon as it is cooked;
incise it underneath, following the edge of the cushion ; detach
and remove the bones.

RELEVES AND ENTREES 471

Now roll up the ham ; bind it tightly in a piece of linen, and
cool it under pressure.

Whether boned or unboned, skin it when it is cold ; remove
some of its fat, and sprinkle it with cold, melted aspic until
the latter covers it evenly.

Dish it up ; fix a frill to it, and surround it with fine aspic
dice.

1438— J AMBON SOUFFLE FROID

Proceed exactly as in No. 142 1, but substitute for the
souffle preparation therein described the cold ham mousse below.

1439— MOUSSE FROIDE DE JAMBON

The Preparation of the Mousse. — Finely pound one lb. of
very lean, cooked ham ; add to it one-third pint of cold Velout6,
and rub through a fine sieve.

Put the resulting pur6e into a basin ; season it ; work it on
ice for a few minutes, and mix therewith, little by little, one-
quarter pint of melted aspic. Finally combine two-thirds pint
of half-beaten cream with it.

The 7nousse may be moulded, either in an aspic-clothed
mould, decorated with truffles, as explained under No. 956, or in
small cassolettes, lined with a thin strip of paper inside their
brims, after the manner of small, cold souffles.

As the dishing and serving of mousses are always the same,
the reader is begged to refer to those recipes dealing with the
question.

1440— MOUSSE FROIDE DE JAMBON A L'ALSACIENNE

Take a deep, square dish and garnish it, half-full, with fine,
ham mousse. Even the surface of this layer of mousse, and,
when it has set, arrange upon it some shells, raised by means
of a spoon dipped in hot water, from a foie-gras Parfait. As
soon as this is done, pour over the foie-gras shells, a sufficient
quantity to cover them of half-melted succulent chicken aspic
with Madeira, and let this jelly set.

When about to serve, incrust the dish in a block of ice.
1441— MOUSSE DE JAMBON AU BLANC DE POULET

Garnish a deep, square dish with some ham mousse. When
the latter has set, arrange thereon the supremes of a very white,
poached fowl. These supremes, cut into regular collops, should
be coated with a white chaud-froid sauce.

Cover with aspic, as directed under " Mousse k
I'Alsacienne," and serve.

N.B. — If desired, the collops need not be coated with chaud-
froid sauce, but, in this case, they should be covered with aspic.

472 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

1442— MOUSSELINES FROIDES DE JAMBON

These mousselines are made from the same preparation as
that used for the mousse, and, but for the basic ingredient,
which is not the same, they are treated after the manner de-
scribed under " Petites Mousses de Homard " (No. 958). To
avoid needless repetition, therefore, the reader will kindly sub-
stitute the word ham for lobster in the recipe just referred to.

CHAPTER XVI

POULTRY (vOLAILLE).

Although the term " poultry " (Fr. volaille), in its general
sense, implies Turkeys, Geese, Ducks and Pigeons, just as well
as Fowls, only the latter are meant, from the culinary stand-
point, when the word " Volaille " appears on a menu.

Four qualities of fowl are recognised in cookery, and each
plays its part, has its uses, and is quite distinct from the other
three. We have : —

(i) Pullets and capons; usually served whole, either as
relev6s or roasts.

(2) Chickens, so-called "k la Reine " ; used for sautes and
chiefly for roasts.

(3) Spring chickens; best suited to en cocotte or grilled
preparations.

(4) Chicks ; served only en cocotte or grilled.

Supremes and ailerons of fowl, which are among the finest
entries, are supplied by chickens k la Reine or by Spring
chickens.

Finally, there are the giblets, consisting of the pinions,
necks, gizzards, and livers of fowl, which give rise to a number
of preparations, the recipes whereof I shall give briefly at the
end of the series.

1443— PULLETS AND CAPONS FOR RELEVl&S

Pullets and capons for relev^s and entries are poached or
poeled; sometimes, but more rarely, they are braised.

The birds to be treated by poaching are trussed with the
claws folded back and inserted into the belly; their fillets and
legs are rubbed with lemon, so as to keep them white, and they
are then covered with thin slices of larding bacon.

The ingredients for chicken poaching stock were given under
No. 249. The bird is known to be cooked when the blood
which issues from a prick on the leg is white or faintly pink.

These fowls are sometimes larded or studded. When this is
to be done, dip the legs and belly of a trussed and lemon-

474 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

besmeared fowl into boiling white stock ; this will be found to
sufficiently harden the flesh to allow of its being treated in the
required way. The products used for studding and larding are,
according to circumstances, ham or tongue, truffles or mush-
rooms, and sometimes, the red part of a carrot for the larding.
Only truffles, ham and tongue are used for studding.

Poeled fowls are trussed as above; they are covered with
slices of bacon in order that the fillets may be protected during
the first stages of the cooking ; then they are cooked in butter
on ^oeZin^-aromatics, under cover and in a deep, thick sauce-
pan. When the piece is almost cooked, just moisten it a little,
either with rich poultry-stock, with the cooking-liquor of truffles
or mushrooms, with Madeira, red or white wine, &c. This
moistening serves in the basting of the fowl and must there-
fore be renewed if it reduces too quickly. After having been
cleared of all grease, it is always added to the sauce which
accompanies the piece of poultry.

Braised fowls are always treated after the manner described
under No. 248; they are not rubbed with lemon, but they are
covered with slices of bacon. The latter should only cover the
breast, but be thick, notwithstanding; for they protect the belly,
which, without them, would shrivel by the time the legs cooked.

The covering of bacon is essential to all pieces of poultry,
whether these be poached, poeled, braised or roasted.

1444— THE WAY TO SERVE POULTRY RELEV^S
QUICKLY AND HOT

I feel bound to call the reader's attention to this very im-
portant point in culinary work : —

Owing to the difficulties involved in the carving of the fowl
and the placing and arranging of the pieces and their garnish
upon the consumers' plates — both of which operations require
dexterity and expertness, which those in charge very often do
not possess, or thanks to the inefficiency of particular installa-
tions, or what not, I have noticed for some considerable time,
that the method of serving large pieces of poultry is, in many
cases, very far from being the right one.

For, indeed, how often does not the diner find himself pre-
sented with a plate of fowl which is neither appetisingly dainty
nor yet sufficiently hot ! It follows from this, that all the care
and trouble devoted by a chef to the preparation of the dish are
entirely wasted. Now, I have tried to improve this state of
affairs, by planning a method of serving which would be at
once simple and expeditious, without necessarily being devoid
of tastefulness and presentability.

POULTRY 475

In the first place, it is my practice to remove the fowl's two
supremes, in the kitchen, and to keep them warm in a little
Gooking-liquor until the last minute. Secondly, I remove all
the bones of the breast, and I reconstruct the fowl with a
garnish in keeping with the dish, i.e., either a mousseline force-
meat, pilaff rice combined with cream, foie gras and truffles,
spaghetti, or noodles with cream.

Having properly smoothed and arranged the selected gar-
nish, the fowl may now be placed, either at one end of any but
a round dish, or on a low cushion of fried bread, on which it
may be set firmly.

It may also be entirely coated with Mornay sauce, sprinkled
with grated cheese, and speedily glazed.

When the body of the bird is dished, its garnish should be
set round it in fine, tartlet crusts ; its supremes, quickly sliced,
should be distributed among the tartlets, and the dish sent to
the table with the sauce separately.

By this means, it reaches the table hot, it is served quickly
and cleanly; and every person gets a slice of meat, and not
garnish only, as was so often the case formerly.

Instead of tartlets, one may use thin croutons of bread, of
the size of the slices of chicken, and fried in fresh butter.

Thus, for a " Poularde a la Derby," after having stuffed
the pullet with rice, suppressed the bones of the breast, and
removed the supremes ; all that is necessary is to properly shape
the rice, and to dish the fowl on a cushion.

This done, prepare as many croutons and slices of foie-
gras, sauted in butter, as there are diners, and arrange them
round the pullet — the slices of foie-gras lying on the croutons.
Now, quickly cut the supremes into slices; put one of these
on each slice of foie-gras, and on each of the latter put a slice
of truffle. Put the pullet, thus prepared, in the oven for a few
minutes; let it get very hot, and send it to the table with the
sauce separately.

In the dining-room the Maitre-d'h6tel quickly serves the
garnished croutons on hot plates, beside each crouton he puts
a tablespoonful of the rice with which the pullet has been stuffed,
and, finally, a tablespoonful of sauce.

In less than two minutes after its entrance into the dining-
room, the pullet is thus served warm to each person.

Of course, the above measures refer to the fowl that has to
be dished whole and presented ; but, when this is not required,
the rice withdrawn from the cooked bird need only be set
in the centre of a deep, square entree dish (fitted with a cover),

476 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

and surrounded by the sliced supremes, with intercalated slices
of foie-gras and truffle. The sauce is also served separately in
this case. Cover the dish, so that it may stand and keep hot
a few minutes, if necessary, without spoiling.

The legs, which are rarely served at a well-ordered dinner,
remain in the kitchen together with the carcass.

I cannot too strongly recommend the system just described,
whenever the circumstances allow of its being put into practice.
It is the only one that ensures an efficient service, calculated
to give entire satisfaction to all concerned.

1445— POULARDE ALBUFERA

Stuff the pullet with the rice prescribed under No. 2236, and
poach it. Dish it and coat with Albuf^ra sauce.

Surround with small tartlet crusts, garnished with truffles
raised by means of a spoon the size of a pea ; quenelles of the
same shape; small button mushrooms, and cocks' kidneys.
Cohere this garnish with Albuf^ra sauce.

Between each tartlet, place a slice of salted tongue, cut to
the shape of a cock's comb.

1446— POULARDE ALEXANDRA

Having larded the pullet with tongue and truffle, poach it.

This done, remove the supremes, and replace them by mous-
seline forcemeat ; smooth this forcemeat, giving it the shape of
the pullet in so doing, and set to poach in the front of the oven.

Now, coat the piece with Mornay sauce, and glaze quickly.
Dish, and surround with tartlet-crusts garnished with asparagus-
heads, cohered with butter; place a collop of the reserved
supremes (which should have been kept hot) on each tartlet,
and border the dish with a thread of pale glaze.

1447— POULARDE AMBASSADRICE

Stud the pullet with truffles, cover it with a Matignon (No.
227), wrap it in muslin, and braise it.

Remove the supremes; suppress the bones of the breast;
fill the carcass with a garnish of asparagus-heads, cohered with
butter, and arrange this garnish as already described under No.
1444.

Slice the supremes, and put them back on the garnish,
in suchwise as to reconstruct the breast of the fowl. Coat the
piece with somewhat stiff and fine supreme sauce; dish it,
and surround it with lamb sweet-breads, studded with truffles.

POULTRY 477

braised and glazed, and alternate the sweetbreads with little
faggots of asparagus-heads.

1448— POULARDE ANDALOUSE

Poele the pullet. Dish it, and coat it with its poeling-
liquor, combined with tomated half-glaze sauce. On either
side of it set some capsicums, stuffed with rice, and some
roundels of egg-plant, seasoned, dredged and tossed in butter;
alternating the two products.

1449— POULARDE A L'ANQLAISE

Poach the pullet, and coat it with a Bechamel sauce fla-
voured with chicken-essence.

Dish it and surround it with slices of salted tongue, laid
tile-fashion on either side; and heaps of carrots and turnips
(cut to the shape of balls) and peas and celery, at either end.
All these vegetables should be cooked a I'anglaise ; i.e., either
in boiling water or in steam.

1450— POULARDE A L'AURORE

Poach the pullet without colouration; dish it, and coat it
with an " Aurore Sauce " (No. 60). Surround it with medium-
sized, decorated quenelles; and trimmed oval slices of salted
tongue, arranged according to fancy.

145 1— POULARDE A LA BEAUFORT

Stuff the pullet with a fine foie-gras, stiffened in the oven
for twenty minutes with a little Madeira, and cooled.

Fill up the pullet with a little, fine sausage-meat; stud it
with truffles, and braise it in short moistening.

Dish it on a low cushion, and surround it with braised,
lambs' tongues, alternated with artichoke-bottoms, garnished
with a rosette of Soubise puree. As an adjunct, use the
braising-liquor, cleared of all grease.

1452— POULARDE BOUILLIE A L'ANQLAISE

Cook the pullet in light, white stock with one lb. of breast
of bacon and a garnish of vegetables as for pot-au-feu. Dish,
and surround with the bacon, cut into slices.

Serve, separately, an English parsley sauce, and a sauceboat
of the pullet's cooking-liquor.

•453— POULARDE AUX CELERIS

Poele the pullet, and baste it towards the close of the opera-
tion with strong veal stock.

Prepare a garnish of braised celery.

478 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

Dish the pullet; surround it with the braised celery, and
cover the latter with the ^oe7mg--liquor.

,4S4_pOULARDE AUX CHAMPIGNONS A BRUN

Poele the pullet, and swill the saucepan with mushroom
essence. Add this swilling-liquor (reduced) to one-quarter pint
of half-glaze with Madeira.

Dish the pullet, and surround it with twenty grooved and
cooked mushroom-heads. Serve separately the reduced half-
glaze, to which add two oz. of fresh butter.

1455— POULARDE AUX CHAMPIGNONS A BLANC

Poach the pullet.

Dish it, and coat it with an Allemande sauce flavoured with
mushroom essence.

Surround it with twenty grooved, cooked and very white
mushroom-heads.

1456— POULARDE CHANOINESSE

Prepare a " Poularde Souffl^e " after recipe No. 1518. Dish
it, and surround it with small heaps of crayfishes' tails, alter-
nated with small croutons of fried bread; on each of which place
a collop of the supremes. Finish off with a slice of truffle on
each collop of the supremes.

Serve a Mornay sauce, finished, with crayfish butter, separ-
ately.

1457— POULARDE CHATELAINE

Poele the pullet without letting it acquire too much colour.

Dish it, and surround it with small artichoke-bottoms, stewed
in butter and garnished with Soubise.

Alternate the artichoke-bottoms with small heaps of chestnuts
cooked in consomm^ and glazed.

Pour a little thickened ^oe/mg'-liquor on the bottom of the
dish, and serve what remains of it, separately, in a sauceboat.

1458— POULARDE CHEVALIBRE

Remove the supremes, and the minion fillets. Lard the
former with two rows of truffles and two rows of tongue; trim
the minion fillets ; make five or six slits in each ; insert a thin
slice of truffle half-way into each slit, and draw the respective
ends of the two fillets together in suchwise as to form two rings.
Put the supremes and the minion fillets each into a buttered
saut^pan, and cover the latter.

Remove the pullet's legs, keeping the skin as long as pos-
sible; bone them to within one and one-third inches of the

POULTRY 479

joints, and cut off the claws, aslant, just below the same joints.
Garnish the boned regions with godiveau prepared with cream
close the opening by means of a few stitches of strong cotton,
and truss each leg in such a manner as to imitate a small duck.

Poach these stuffed legs in stock made from the pullet's
carcass.

Also poach the supremes and the minion fillets in good time,
with a little mushroom cooking-liquor, and a few drops of
lemon juice.

With a pinch of flour mixed with water, stick a fried crouton
(the shape of a pyramid, three inches high and of two inch
base) in the middle of a dish.

Around this pyramid, arrange the two stuffed legs and the
two supremes; putting each of them on a decorated quenelle
with the view of slightly raising them. Set the minion fillets
on the legs, and, between the latter and the supremes, lay small
heaps of cocks' combs and kidneys, and some very white mush-
room-heads. Pierce the crouton with a hatelet garnished with
one truffle, one fine cock's comb, and a large mushroom.

Serve a supreme sauce separately.

N.B. — -This dish is generally bordered, either with noodle-
paste, white English paste, or with a chased silver border.

1459— POULARDE CHIMAY

Stuff the pullet with one-half lb. of half-poached noodles,
tossed in butter, and combined with a little cream and three
oz. of foie-gras cut into large dice.

Poele it gently; dish it, and coat it with some of its poeling-
liquor, thickened.

Distribute over the pullet a copious amount of raw noodles,
sauted in clarified butter ; and serve the remainder of the thick-
ened ^oeh'n^-liquor separately.

1460— POULARDE CHIPOLATA

Poele the pullet and put it into a terrine a pate with a gar-
nish consisting of small, glazed onions; chipolata sausages,
poached in butter ; chestnuts cooked in consomm^ ; fried pieces
of bacon ; and, if desired, some small glazed carrots.

Add the pullet's cooking-liquor, and simmer for ten minutes
before serving.

146 1— POULARDE A LA CHIVRY

Poach the pullet. Dish it and coat it with Chivry sauce
(No. 78).

Serve a Macedoine of new vegetables^ cohered with butter
or cream, separately.

48o GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

1462— POULARDE CUSSY

Braise the pullet. Dish it and surround it with whole
truffles, cooked in Mirepoix with Madeira, and alternated with
fine, grilled mushrooms, garnished with artichoke pur^e.

In front of the pullet set a small, silver shell, in which shape
a pyramid of large cocks' combs, heated in butter.

1463— POULARDE EN DEMI-DEUIL

Between the skin and the fillets of the fowl insert a few fine
slices of raw truffle. Lard the pullet and poach it.

When it is ready, strain the cooking-liquor through a napkin ;
reduce it, and add it to a very white supreme sauce, containing
slices of truffle.

Dish the pullet; cook it with some of the sauce, and send
what remains, separately, in a sauceboat.

1464— POULARDE DEMIDOFF

Poele the pullet. When it is three-parts done, put it into
a cocotte and surround it with the following garnish,, prepared
in advance and stewed in butter; viz: — one-half lb. of carrots
and five oz. of turnips, cut into grooved crescents, one inch in
diameter; five oz. of small onions cut into thin roundels, and
five oz. of celery.

Complete the cooking of the pullet with this garnish, and
add to it, when about to serve, three oz. of truffles, cut to the
shape of crescents, and one-sixth pint of chicken stock.

Serve the preparation in the cocotte, after having cleared the
liquor of all grease.

1465— POULARDE DERBY

Stuff the pullet with rice, prepared after recipe No. 2236;
and foele it. Dish, and surround it with collops of foie-gras,
tossed in butter (each set on a small, fried crouton), and alter-
nate these with large, whole truffles, cooked in champagne.

As an adjunct, serve the pullet's cooking-liquor, cleared of
all grease, combined with the cooking-liquor of the truffles and
one-sixth pint of veal gravy. Reduce the whole to one-sixth
pint and thicken with arrow-root.

1466— POULARDE DIVA

Stuff the pullet with rice, prepared after recipe No. 2236, and
poach it without colouration.

Dish it, and coat it with supreme sauce, flavoured with
paprika.

Send a garnish consisting of cepes with cream, separately.

POULTRY 481

N.B. — This dish was served for the first time to Mme.
Adelina Patti, the great singer.

1467— POULARDE DEVONSHIRE

Bone the breast of a fine pullet; season it inside, and fill it
with a chicken forcemeat, prepared with cream and mixed with
half its weight of very fine sausage-meat.

In the middle of the pullet set a nice salted and cooked
calf's tongue, trimmed and cleared of all cartilage; and place
it so that its thin end lies in the region of the bird's tail.

Sew up the pullet's belly with thin string, allowing the skin
sufficient play not to tear under the pressure of the forcemeat,
which swells while cooking. Truss, cover the pullet with a
slice of larding bacon, poach, and drain it.

When about to serve, make an incision around the breast
with the point of a knife ; detach the stuffing with the blade
of a knife, passed horizontally on a level with the spine, and
cut off, at a stroke, the piece consisting of the pullet's breast,
the stuffing, and the calf's tongue.

Dish the carcass with the legs and wings still attached, on
a low cushion. Cut the breast, lengthwise, into two; and, if
the fowl has been properly stuffed, the tongue should then be
found neatly bisected. Slice each half, and return them to
the carcass in suchwise as to reconstruct the bird and give it
an untouched appearance.

Coat lightly with AUemande sauce, combined with very red
tongue, cut into dice; and surround with a border of timbales
made from a pur^e of fresh peas (No. 2196), each set on an arti-
choke bottom. Serve a sauceboat of the same sauce as that with
which the pullet was coated.

1468— POULARDE A L'EC05SAISE

Stuff the pullet with pearl barley cooked in white consomm^,
well drained, and combined, per lb., with an equal quantity of
fine sausage-meat (to which has been added a chopped onion,
cooked in butter), and two tablespoonfuls of cream.

Poach the pullet in the usual way ; dish it and coat it with
Ecossaise sauce, i.e., an AUemande sauce, combined with a
brunoise of vegetables : carrots, onions, leeks, and celery, and
a large part of the reduced pullet's poaching-liquor.

Serve a garnish of French beans with cream, separately.

1469— POULARDE EDOUARD VIL

Stuff the pullet with rice, prepared after recipe No. 2236,
and poach it without colouration. Dish it, and coat it with a

I I

482 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

curry sauce, combined with two oz. of red capsicums in dice,
per pint of sauce.

Serve a garnish of cucumbers with cream, separately.

N.B. — This dish was originated at the Carlton Hotel on
the occasion of His Majesty King Edward VH.'s Coronation.

1470— POULARDE EN E5T0UFFADE

Hali-poele the pullet in a saucepan.

Line the bottom and sides of an oval cocotte with thin slices
of ham. Put the halt-poeled pullet into this cocotte, together
with one lb. of carrots, onions, and celery, all three sliced, fried
in butter and moderately seasoned with salt and pepper.

Swill the saucepan with one-third pint of strong veal stock ;
reduce to half ; put this reduced stock into the cocotte ; cover the
latter; seal down the lid with a thread of paste, and complete
the cooking of the pullet in a somewhat hot oven for three-
quarters of an hour.

1471— POULARDE A L'ESTRAQON

Poach the pullet, and add to the ordinary garnish a bunch
consisting of five or six sprigs of tarragon.

Dish, and decorate the pullet's breast with a nice spray
of blanched tarragon leaves.

Reduce and strain the pullet's cooking-liquor, and serve
it separately.

1473— POULARDE A LA FAVORITE

Stuff the pullet with one-half lb. of rice, prepared after
recipe No. 2256.

Poach it; dish it, and coat with a supreme sauce.

Surround with a garnish of cocks' combs and kidneys,
and slices of truffle.

1473— POULARDE A LA FERMlfeRE

Prepare the pullet as for No. 1470; but, instead of lining
the cocotte with slices of ham, cut the latter into dice and add
these to the garnish, together with four oz. of peas and four
oz. of French beans, cut into small lozenges.

1474— POULARDE A LA FINANCIERE

Braise the pullet.

Dish it, and surround it with a garnish consisting of small
heaps of quenelles made from chicken, mousseline forcemeat;
grooved, button-mushroom heads; cocks' combs and kidneys;

POULTRY 483

slices of truffle, and blanched olives. Add a small quantity of
half-glaze sauce prepared with truffle essence.
Send a sauceboat of the same sauce separately.

1475— POULARDE A LA GASTRONOME

Stuff the pullet with one-half lb. of noodles, slightly tossed
in butter, and poele it.

Swill the saucepan with one-quarter pint of champagne.
Dish the pullet and surround it with medium-sized truffles,
cooked in champagne, alternated with small heaps of cooked
and glazed chestnuts, and place a cock's kidney between each
heap.

Serve, separately, a half-glaze sauce, flavoured with truffle
essence and combined with the reduced swilling-liquor.

1476— POULARDE A LA QODARD

Braise the pullet brown.

Dish it and surround it with spoon-moulded quenelles of
forcemeat, combined with chopped mushrooms and truffles;
large oval quenelles, decorated with tongue and truffle; grooved
button-mushroom heads; cocks' combs and kidneys; glazed
small lambs' sweetbreads; and olive-shaped truffles.

Slightly coat this garnish with Godard sauce, combined
with some reduced braising-liquor, and send what remains of
the latter in a sauceboat.

1477— POULARDE A LA GRAMMONT

Poach the pullet, and let it half-cool.

Now remove the supremes and the bones of the breast; fill
up the cavity in the carcass with a garnish consisting of larks'
fillets, sauted just before dishing; grooved button-mushroom
heads; cocks' combs and kidneys; and cohere the whole by
means of Bechamel sauce, finished with truffle essence.

Slice the supremes, and return them to their place, setting a
slice of truffle between each. Coat the pullet with a stiff Alle-
mande sauce; sprinkle with grated Parmesan and melted butter;
glaze quickly, and serve at once.

1478— POULARDE GRAND HOTEL

Cut up the fowl as for a saute dish, and cook it in butter,
under cover. Then set the pieces in a very hot, cocotte, and
distribute thereupon five oz. of raw truffles cut into thick slices
and slightly salted and peppered.

Swill the saut^pan with a few tablespoonfuls of white wine ;
add a little chicken stock ; pour this liquor into the cocotte ;

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484 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

thoroughly close the latter, and put it in a very hot oven for
eight or ten minutes with the view of cooking the truffles.

Serve the preparation as it stands in the cocotte.

N.B. — This dish was invented at the Grand Hotel at Monte
Carlo, as a means of offering to those who could not wait for
the preparation of truffled pullets a substitute of a somewhat
similar nature to the latter.

1479— POULARDE AU QROS 5EL

Poach the pullet, and add to it ten small olive-shaped carrots
and ten small onions.

Dish, and surround the bird with the carrots and the onions,
arranged in small heaps.

Serve, separately, a sauceboat containing the pullet's cook-
ing-liquor, and a seller of kitchen salt.

1480— POULARDE A LA QRECQUE

Stuff the pullet with rice, prepared after recipe No. 2253,
and foele it.

Dish it, and coat it with very strong reduced chicken stock,
thickened by means of arrowroot.

1481— POULARDE A LA HONQROISE

Poele the pullet.

Dish it; coat it with Hongroise sauce, and surround it with
timbales of pilaff rice, combined with tomato pulp, cut into
dice.

Send a Hongroise sauce separately.

1482— POULARDE AUX HUiXRES

Boil the pullet gently in light, white stock, until it is well
cooked. With the cooking-liquor prepare a supreme sauce,
and add thereto the almost entirely reduced poaching-liquor of
twenty-four oysters, one-half pint of cream, and the twenty-four
oysters (cleared of their beards).

Dish the pullet, and pour this sauce over it.

1483— POULARDE A L'INDIENNE

Poach the pullet.

Dish it ; coat with Indienne sauce, and serve a timbale of
rice k I'lndienne, prepared after recipe No. 2254, separately.

1484— POULARDE ISABELLE DE FRANCE

Stuff the pullet with rizotto, combined with two oz. of
truffle slices and eighteen crayfishes' tails, and poach it in white
stock containing one bottle of Chablis wine.

With the pullet's cooking-liquor prepare a highly-seasoned

POULTRY 485

supreme sauce. Dish the bird on a small cushion ; coat it with
sauce, and surround it with fine black truffles, cooked in cham-
pagne, and set each on a small, round, and slightly hollowed
crouton of fried bread.

Serve the remainder of the sauce separately.

1485— POULARDE A L'lVOIRE

Poach the pullet, keeping it very white. Dish it, and serve
it plain.

Send, separately, an ivory sauce, a sauceboat of the pullet's
cooking-liquor, and some kind of garnish, such as macaroni or
noodles with cream cepes, cucumber, &c.

i486— POULARDE LADY CURZON

Stuff the pullet with rice, prepared after recipe No. 2256,
and poach it.

Dish it, and coat it with an Indienne sauce.

A garnish of cepes or cucumber with cream may be served
at the same time.

1487— POULARDE LOUISE D'ORL^ANS

Insert a whole foie gras into the pullet, the former having
been studded with truffles, poached for fifteen minutes in some
succulent veal stock, and one glassful of old Madeira, and after
wards cooled.

Stiffen and colour the pullet for twenty minutes in the oven,
sprinkling it with butter the while.

Cover it entirely with thick slices of truffles; cover these
with slices of bacon, and envelop the whole in a layer of plain
dough, which should be well sealed up. Set the pullet, pre-
pared in this way, on a baking-tray; make a slit in the top of
the paste for the escape of steam during the cooking process,
and cook in a moderate oven for one and three-quarter hours.

This pullet is served as it stands, cold or hot.

1488— POULARDE A LA LOUISIANE

Stuff the pullet with one lb. of maize with cream, combined
with one and one-half oz. of capsicums cut into dice, and poele
it. Dish it and border it, on either side, with timbales of rice
and fried bananas, arranged alternately. At either end of the
dish set a croustade of lining paste, garnished with maize " k
1q cr^mc

1489— POULARDE A LA LUCULLUS

Braise the pullet.

Dish it, and surround it with (i) fine truffles, cooked in
champagne, alternated with (2) large, round quenelles of
mousseline forcemeat. At either end of the dish, which should

486 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

be oval, set a small silver shell of the same height as the
cushion on which the pullet lies.

Garnish these shells with very white, curled cocks' combs
and cocks' kidneys. Add the reduced braising-liquor to a half-
glaze sauce, flavoured with truffle essence; cover the bottom of
the dish with some of this sauce, and send what remains,,
separately, in a sauceboat.

1490— POULARDE A LA MANCINl

Poach the pullet.

Remove the supremes ; suppress the bones of the breast
without touching either the pinions or the legs, and set the
carcass, thus prepared, on a very low cushion of bread or rice,
so that it may be steady.

Fill the carcass with macaroni, cohered with cheese and
cream, and combined with three oz. of foie gras in dice, and
one-half oz. of a julienne of truffles.

Slice the supremes, and reconstruct them on the macaroni,
placing a fine slice of truffle between each. Coat the pullet
with a stiff and unctuous cream sauce; sprinkle with grated
cheese, and glaze quickly at the salamander.

Serve separately a creamy supreme sauce.

149 1— POULARDE MARGUERITE DE SAVOIE

Put ten larks, quickly fried in butter for five minutes, in a
bowl with one fine white truffle, cut into shavings, and thor-
oughly close the bowl.

At the end of twenty-four hours, insert this preparation into
a fine pullet, and braise the latter in veal stock and white Savoy
wine, in equal quantities. Prepare a milk polenta (No. 2274) ;
spread it on a tray in layers one inch thick, and let it cool.
Now stamp it with a round cutter one and one-half inches in
diameter, and, a few minutes before serving, dredge these
roundels of polenta, and brown them in clarified butter.

Just before dishing up, sprinkle them with grated Parmesan,
and glaze them quickly at the salamander.

Dish the pullet on a very low cushion of fried bread; sur-
round it with the glazed roundels of polenta ; pour a little of the
fowl's cooking-liquor, thickened, over the dish, and send what
remains of it in a sauceboat.

Serve at the same time a vegetable-dish of white Piedmont
truffles, slightly heated in a little butter and some consomm^.

1492— POULARDE A LA MENAQfiRE

Poach the pullet in some rather gelatinous white stock.
Slice six carrots, six new potatoes, six new onions; put the

POULTRY 487

whole into a saucepan, and cook gently in the fowl's poaching-
liquor, with the lid of the saucepan off. When the vegetables
are cooked, and the liquor is sufficiently reduced, set the pullet
in a special oval cocotte, and cover it with the prepared vege-
tables and their cooking-liquor.

1493— POULARDE MIREILLE

Poele the pullet.

Dish it; surround it with small timbales of rice with saffron,
alternated with tartlet crusts, garnished with concassed tomatoes
cooked in butter, and set a fine, stoned olive on each tartlet.

Serve a tomato sauce separately.

1494— POULARDE A LA MONTBAZON

Stud the pullet with truffles, and poach it.

Dish it; coat it with supreme sauce, and surround it with
poached lamb sweetbreads, spoon-moulded quenelles of mous-
seline, chicken forcemeat, and grooved mushroom heads, ar-
ranged alternately.

Serve a supreme sauce separately.

1495— POULARDE A LA MONTE CARLO

Poach the pullet.

Dish it; coat it with supreme sauce, and surround it on the
one side with quenelles of pink, mousseline, chicken forcemeat,
and on the other with a border of fair-sized, very black truffles.

1496— POULARDE A LA MONTMORENCY

Lard the pullet with truffles, and braise it in Madeira.

Set it on an oval dish, and, at either end of the latter, place
a fine, decorated quenelle; on either side of the fowl arrange
some artichoke-bottoms, garnished with asparagus-heads,
cohered with butter.

Serve separately a half-glaze sauce with Madeira, to which
the braising-liquor of the pullet has been added.

1497— POULARDE A LA NANTUA
Poach the pullet.

Dish it; coat it with a supreme sauce, finished with crayfish

butter, and surround it with small heaps of quenelles with

crayfish butter, crayfishes' tails, and slices of truffle.

1498— POULARDE A L'ORIENTALE

Stuff the pullet with one lb. of pilaff rice with saffron, and
poach it.

Remove its supremes; suppress the breast-bones by means
of scissors, without touching the rice, and coat the latter with

488 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

B6ehaniel sauce coloured with tomato sauce and flavoured with
saffron.

Dish; reconstruct the sliced supremes on the rice, and set
between each slice another of chow-chow stewed in butter.
Cover the pullet with the same sauce as that indicated above,
and surround it with quarters of chow-chow cooked in butter, or
serve this garnish separately.

1499— POULARDS AUX CEUFS D'OR

Poele the pullet without letting it acquire overmuch colour.

Strain the foeling-liquor; clear it of all grease; add thereto
a little tomato pur^e, and thicken it with arrowroot. Finish
with three oz. of butter, the juice of half a lemon, and a little
cayenne.

Dish the pullet; surround it with a border of egg-shaped
croquettes of egg with truffles, and send the sauce separately.

1500— POULARDE A LA PARISIENNE

Poach the pullet.

Dish it; cover it with Allemande sauce, and decorate it on
top with slices of truffles and salted tongue cut to the shape of
cocks' combs.

Surround with spoon-moulded quenelles of chicken force-
meat, half of which should have been combined with chopped
truffles, and the other half with chopped, salted ox-tongue.

Arrange the quenelles round the fowl, alternately, and
border the dish with a thread of pale glaze.

1501— POULARDE ADELINA PATTI

Stuff the pullet with rice, prepared after recipe No. 2256,
and poach it in white, chicken stock. Dish it on a low cushion ;
cover it with a supreme sauce, flavoured with paprika, and
surround it with fair-sized artichoke-bottoms, each garnished
with a fine truffle, coated with pale meat glaze.

Serve separately a sauceboat of the same sauce as that
already used in coating the pullet.

1502— POULARDE A LA PAYSANNE

Brown the pullet in butter, and put it into an oval cocotte.

Around it set a garnish consisting of four oz, of the red part
of a carrot, three oz. of onion, and two oz. of celery, all three
minced somewhat finely. Complete the cooking of the pullet
with the vegetables, sprinkling it often the while with good
veal stock.

Serve the preparation as it stands in the cocotte.

POULTRY 489

1503— POULARDE A LA P^RIQORD

Stuff the pullet with one-half lb. of truffles in the shape of
large olives, cooked in two oz. of melted pork fat, and mixed,
while hot, with one lb. of fresh, grated pork fat, rubbed through
a sieve. String the piece, taking care to close all its openings,
and -poele it gently.

Dish it ; coat it with a very fine half-glaze sauce, made from
the /)oe7mg--liquor and finished with truffle essence.

1504— POULARDE PETITE MARIEE

Poach the pullet in a little white stock, and surround it (when
setting it to cook) with six small new onions, six small carrots,
six small new potatoes, and one-quarter pint of freshly-shelled
peas.

Set the pullet in a cocotte with the garnish of vegetables, and
coat it with its reduced cooking-liquor, combined with some
excellent supreme sauce.

1 50s— POULARDE A LA PI^MONTAISE

Stuff the pullet with two-thirds lb. of rizotto combined with
one-half lb. of white sliced truffles, and poele it in the usual
way.

Dish it, and serve at the same time a thickened chicken
gravy to which has been added the reduced poeling-Wqnov.

1506— POULARDE A LA PORTUQAISE

Stuff the pullet with three-quarters lb. of rice, combined
with five oz. of peeled and concussed tomatoes, cooked in butter.

Poele the pullet. Dish it; coat it with a Portugaise sauce,
combined with the poeling-liquor, and surround it with a
garnish of medium-sized tomatoes, stuffed with rice "k la
Portugaise."

1507— POULARDE PRINCESSE

Poach the pullet.

Dish it, and coat it with an Allemande sauce, flavoured with
mushroom essence and finished with two oz. of asparagus-head
butter per pint of sauce. Surround it with croustades of
Duchesse potatoes, rolled in breadcrumbs and melted butter,
fried, emptied, then garnished with asparagus-heads cohered
with butter, and each surmounted by a fine slice of truffle.
Between each croustade set a faggot of very green asparagus-

Y\G3.uS

1508— POULARDE PRINCESSE HELENE

Stuff the pullet with rice prepared after recipe (No. 2256),
and poach it. Dish it ; coat it with supreme sauce, and sur-
round it with spinach subrics, cooked at the last moment; add

490 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

to this garnish some shavings of white truffles, barely heated
in butter, and set in a shell placed behind the fowl.

1509— POULARDE REQENCE

Stuff the pullet with one lb. of mousseline forcemeat of
chicken, combined with three oz. of crayfish pur6e, and poach it.

Dish it ; coat it with Allemande sauce, flavoured with truffle
essence, and surround it with the following garnish, arranged
in small heaps : — Spoon-moulded quenelles of mousseline,
chicken forcemeat; white, curled, cocks' combs; slices of raw
foie gras, stamped out with a round cutter, and tossed in
butter; small, grooved, cooked, and very white mushrooms;
olive-shaped truffles, and one round quenelle decorated with
truffles at either end of the dish.

1510— POULARDE DE LA REINE ANNE

Poele the pullet.

When it is ready, remove the supremes and the breast bones,
and fill the carcass with a garnish of macaroni and cream, com-
bined with foie gras and truffle dice. Cover the macaroni with
Mornay sauce; glaze quickly, and dish the pullet on a low
cushion.

Surround it with small tartlet crusts garnished with cocks'
combs and kidneys, cohered with Allemande sauce, and set a
slice of the supremes on each tartlet. Put a silver shell con-
taining a pyramid of truffles behind the fowl.

Serve an Allemande sauce, flavoured with truffle essence,
separately.

151 1— POULARDE REINE MARGOT

Stuff the pullet with two-thirds lb. of ynousseline forcemeat
of chicken, combined with two oz. of almond pur6e, and poach
it.

Dish it; coat it with supreme sauce, finished with a little
almond milk, and surround it with quenelles prepared with
pistachio butter and quenelles prepared with crayfish butter,
arranged alternately.

15 12— POULARDE REINE MARGUERITE

Poach the pullet.

Remove the supremes and the breast bone, without touching
either the wings or the legs, and set the carcass, thus trimmed,
on a low cushion of bread or rice. Finely slice the supremes ;
add as many slices of truffle as there are collops of supremes,
and combine the whole with a souffle preparation with Par-
mesan, which should not be too light.

POULTRY 491

Reconstruct the pullet with this preparation; smooth the
surface, and surround the base of the pullet with a band of
paper, so that it may keep its form. Set some thin slices of
Gruy^re cheese upon it; dish it, and cook it in a moderately
hot oven.

1513— POULARDE AU RIZ

Poach the pullet.

Dish it, and coat it with an Allemande sauce, flavoured with
chicken essence. Surround it with a garnish of rice, cooked
in the pullet's poaching-liquor, and moulded in small, buttered,
timbale moulds.

1514— POULARDE ROSSINI

Poele the pullet.

Remove the supremes; slice them, and dish them in the
form of a crown upon a round dish, alternating them with
collops of foie gras, tossed in butter. Pour a very strong
chicken stock finished with truffle essence in their midst.

Serve, separately, a timbale of noodles with butter covered
with raw noodles tossed in butter.

151S— POULARDE SAINTE ALLIANCE

Heat in butter ten fine truffles seasoned with salt and pepper ;
sprinkle them with a glassful of excellent Madeira, and leave
them to cool thus in a thoroughly sealed utensil. Now put
these truffles into a fine pullet, and foele it just in time for it
to be sent to the table.

When the pullet is ready, quickly cook as many ortolans,
and toss in butter as many collops of foie gras as there are
diners, and send them to the table at the same time as the pullet,
together with the latter's poeling-ViquoT, strained and in a sauce-
boat.

The waiter in charge should be ready for it with three assist-
ants at hand, and he should have a very hot chafer on the side-
board. The moment it arrives he quickly removes the supremes,
cuts them into slices, and sets each one of these upon a collop
of foie gras, which assistant No. i has placed ready on a plate,
together with one of the truffles inserted into the pullet at the
start.

Assistant No. 2, to whom the plate is handed forthwith, adds
an ortolan and a little juice, and then assistant No. 3 straight-
way places the plate before the diner.

The pullet is thus served very quickly, and in such wise as
to render it a dish of vfery exceptional gastronomical quality.

N.B. — The name " Sainte Alliance " which I give to this
dish (a name that Brillat-Savarin employs in his " Physiology

492 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

of Taste" in order to identify a certain famous toast) struck
me as an admirable title for a preparation in which four such
veritable gems of cookery are found united — the supremes of a
fine pullet, foie gras, truffles, and ortolans.

This dish was originally served at the Carlton Hotel in 1905.

1516— POULARDE SANTA-LUCIA

Stuff the pullet with truffles, prepared as for No. 1515, and
braise it in Marsala. Dish it on a low cushion, and surround
it with small tartlets of Gnochi " ^ la Romaine," alternated with
collops of foie gras, tossed in butter.

15 17— POULARDE SICILIENNE

Poach the pullet.

Raise the fillets, leaving the wing-bones on the carcass;
suppress fhe breast bones, and fill the resulting cavity with
macaroni, cohered with the strong liquor of braised beef " ^ la
Napolitaine," and combined with dice of truffles and foie gras,
cocks' combs and kidneys.

Envelop the piece in pig's caul, giving the former its natural
shape ; sprinkle with raspings and melted butter, and set in
the oven that the pig's caul may cook and colour.

Dish on a low cushion, and coat with chicken glaze with
butter.

Surround with tartlet crusts, each garnished with a slice of
the supremes, covered with a slice of foie gras tossed in butter,
and surmounted by a slice of truffle.

Send a chicken glaze with butter separately.

1518— POULARDE SOUFFLEE

Poach the pullet.

Raise the supremes, and cut them into thin slices ; suppress
the breast-bones by means of scissors, and stuff the bird with
one lb. two oz. of m,ousseline forcemeat of chicken, combined
with one-third lb. of foie-gras pur^e. Spread this preparation
in layers, and between each of the latter set alternate slices of
supreme and truffle.

Reconstruct the bird exactly ; smooth its surface ; deck it
with bits of truffle, salted tongue, and boiled white of egg;
place the dish on a deep tray containing a little boiling water,
the steam of which assists the poaching of the preparation, and
poach in a moderate oven.

When about to serve, coat the pullet with Allemande sauce
flavoured with truffle essence.

N.B. — The use of a bain-marie consisting of a deep pan

POULTRY 493

containing boiling water, wherein the dish which holds the
pullet is placed, is highly recommended, but the ideal method
of poaching this sort of preparations is by means of a steamer.

1519— POULARDE STANLEY

Stuff the pullet with one-half lb. of rice, three oz. of mush-
rooms, and three oz. of a julienne of truffles. Poach it with
one lb. two oz. of sliced and blanched onions, seasoned with
a pinch of curry. When the pullet is ready, rub the cooking-
liquor and the onions through tammy. Add one-third pint of
Velout6 and one-third pint of cream to this cullis; reduce to a
stiff consistence ; rub once more through tammy, and finish with
one-sixth pint of cream.

1520— POULARDE SOUVAROFF

Stuff the pullet with one-half lb. of foie gras and five oz. of
truffles cut into large dice, and three-parts poele it.

Now put it into a cocotte with ten fair-sized truffles stewed
in Madeira for a few minutes in the same saucepan as that
in which the pullet was poeled. Moisten with one-sixth pint
of veal stock; close the cocotte; seal the cover with a thread of
paste, and complete the cooking in a moderate oven for thirty
minutes.

Serve the fowl as it stands in the cocotte.

1 52 1— POULARDE 5YLVANA

Stuff the pullet with one lb. of mushrooms, tossed in brown
butter, and half-brown it in the oven.

Meanwhile put one pint of fresh peas into a saucepan, to-
gether with ten small new onions, one small lettuce cut julienne-
fashion, and a faggot consisting of parsley stalks, chervil, and
a sprig of mint. Add salt, sugar, two oz. of butter, and mix the
whole up together.

Moisten with two small tablespoonfuls of water; cover and
half-cook, taking care to toss from time to time during the
operation. When the pullet is half-cooked, put it into a cocotte
lined with a thin layer of paste, overreaching the edges of the
cocotte by about two inches.

Surround it with a garnish of peas; cover it with a slice of
bacon, and close the cocotte with its cover. Draw the overlap-
ping paste over the latter ; seal it down with some white of egg,
that it may be hermetically closed, and set in the oven for about
forty-five minutes.

Serve the preparation as it stands in the cocotte. A sauce-
boat of good chicken gravy may be served separately.

494 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

1522— POULARDE TALLEYRAND

Poele the pullet; raise the supremes, and cut these into
large dice. Mix them with an equal quantity of macaroni, cut
short, and thickened with cream sauce combined with Parmesan,
and add enough foie gras and truffles, cut into large dice, to
equal half the weight of the supremes.

Suppress the breast-bones; fill the fowl with the above pre-
paration, and cover the latter with a layer of tnousseline force-
meat, reconstructing the bird naturally in so doing. Deck the
surface with a crown of truffle slices ; cover with buttered paper,
and set in the oven (i) to poach the forcemeat, (2) to thoroughly
heat the preparation beneath.

Dish the pullet; pour a little half-glaze sauce, flavoured with
truffle essence and combined with slices of truffle, over the dish,
and serve what remains of the sauce separately.

1523— POULARDE TOSCA

Stuff the pullet with rice, prepared after No. 2256, and poele
it in short moistening. Dish it on a low cushion of fried bread,
and surround it with a garnish of braised, tuberous fennel-roots.

Send the pullet's poeling liquor separately, after having
reduced and finished it with butter.

1524— POULARDE TOULOUSAINE

Poach the pullet.

Dish it ; coat it with Allemande sauce, flavoured with mush-
room essence, and surround it with the following garnish, ar-
ranged in heaps: — Quenelles of tnousseline chicken forcemeat;
slices of poached, veal sweetbreads ; cocks' combs and kidneys ;
cooked and very white button-mushroom heads, and slices of
truffle.

Serve an Allemande sauce, flavoured with mushroom
essence, separately.

1525— POULARDE TRIANON

Poach the pullet.

Dish it, and surround it with quenelles of chicken force-
meat, stuffed with foie-gras pur^e. Arrange these quenelles in
heaps, and set a nice, whole truffle between each heap.

Pierce the pullet with a hatelet, garnished with one grooved
mushroom, one fair-sized glazed truffle, and a quenelle decorated
with salted tongue.

Serve a supreme sauce at the same time.

POULTRY 495

1526— POULARDE VALENCIENNE

Poele the pullet.

Dish it, and surround it with a garnish of rizotto, combined
with ham dice. Set a crown of grilled slices of ham upon the
rizotto.

Serve a well-seasoned tomated supreme sauce separately.

M537— POULARDE AU VERT=PRE

Poach the pullet.

Dish it; coat it with a supreme sauce, finished with prin-
tanier butter (No. 157), in the proportion of two oz. per pint
of sauce; and surround it with a garnish consisting of peas,
French beans, and asparagus-heads, cohered with butter.

1528— POULARDE VICHY

Stuff the pullet with ordinary pilaff rice, and braise it white.
Dish it, coat it with a supreme sauce, combined with the re-
duced braising-liquor, and surround with small tartlet crusts,
garnished with carrots k la Vichy.

1529— POULARDE VICTORIA

Stuff the pullet with truffles and foie gras, and three-parts
poele it, exactly as directed under " Poularde Souvaroff."

Put it into a cocotte with one lb. of potatoes, cut into large
dice and tossed in butter, and complete its cooking and that of
the potatoes in the oven.

1530— POULARDE WASHINGTON

Stuff the pullet with ten oz. of green maize, three-parts
cooked, and combined with one chopped onion cooked in butter
and three oz. of good sausage-meat, fried in butter for one
moment with the onion. Braise the pullet, and glaze it at the
last minute.

Serve separately and at the same time a timbale of maize
with cream.

«53«— CHAPON FIN AUX PERLE5 DU PERIQORD

Stuff the capon with fine truffles, and envelop it in very
thin slices of cushion of veal. Braise it with best liqueur-
brandy.

Dish and serve separately (i) the braising liquor in a sauce-
boat; (2) a timbale of cardoons with gravy.

1532— POULETS SAUTES

As I pointed out at the beginning of Part V. of this chapter,
the chickens best suited to the saute treatment are those termed

496 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

" kla Reine " ; they should be of medium size, very fleshy, and
tender.

In an extreme case, small pullets or large chickens might be
used, but neither of these are so eminently suited to the pro-
cedure in question as chickens " a la Reine."

The fowl which is to be sauted should be cut up thus : after
having emptied, singed, and thoroughly cleaned it; cut off its
legs — quite a simple matter, since all that is necessary is the
disjunction of the thigh-bones, after having cut the skin. Cut
off the claws just below the joint of the tibia, and pare the
spurs. Now cut the tibia above the joint, and remove the
thigh-bonci

Cut the pinions at the first joint; remove the wings, after
having cut round a portion of the breast in such wise that each
wing holds one half of it; finally detach the centrepiece or
breast-bone, which should be left whole if the fowl be small
and cut into two if it be otherwise.

The carcass thus remains. Cut it into two, and trim each
piece on both sides.

Before setting them to cook, moderately season the pieces of
fowl with salt and pepper. Whatever the demands of a par-
ticular recipe may be, the preparatory principle of sauted
chickens is always as follows : — ■

Take a saut^pan just large enough to hold the pieces of fowl,
and heat therein two oz. of clarified butter; or, according to
circumstances, half butter and half good oil. When the selected
fat is quite hot, insert the pieces of fowl ; let them colour quickly,
and turn them over from time to time, that they may do so
evenly. Now cover the utensil, and put it in a sufficiently hot
oven to ensure the complete cooking of the fowl. Some tender
pieces, such as the wings and the breast, should be withdrawn
after a few minutes have elapsed, and kept warm ; but the legs,
the meat of which is firmer and thicker, should cook seven or
eight minutes more at least.

When all the pieces are cooked, withdraw them ; drain away
their butter, and swill the sautepan with the prescribed liquor,
which is either some kind of wine, mushroom cooking-liquor, or
chicken stock, &c. This swilling forms, as I have already
pointed out, an essential part of the procedure, inasmuch as its
object is to dissolve those portions of solidified gravy which
adhere to the bottom of the sautepan.

Reduce the swilling-liquor to half, and add thereto the sauce
given in the recipe. Put the pieces of carcass, the claws, the
pinions and the legs into this sauce, and simmer for a few

POULTRY 497

minutes. The other pieces, i.e., the wings and breast, are
then added, but when the sauce is sufficiently reduced, it must
stop boiling. When the pieces are completely cooked, it is
obviously unnecessary for the sauce to boil, since the former
would only be hardened thereby.

A few minutes before serving, put the pieces into a deep
entree dish (fitted with a cover) in the following order : — The
pieces of carcass, the claws and the pinions on the bottom of
the dish, upon these the legs and the breast, and, last of all, the
wings.

The sauce is then finished according to the directions of the
recipe, and is poured over the pieces of fowl.

Some chickens are prepared without colouration — that is to
say, the pieces are merely stiffened in butter without browning,
and their cooking is completed in the oven as above. In this
case the swilling-liquor is invariably white, as also the supple-
mentary sauces, and the latter are finished with cream.

1533— POULET SAUT6 ARCHIDUC

Fry the pieces of fowl without colouration, i.e., merely stiffen
them. Add four oz. of onions, previously cooked in butter, and
complete the cooking of the onions and the fowl together.

Withdraw the pieces; dish them ; cover the dish, and keep it
hot. Moisten the onions with a small glassful of liqueur
brandy; reduce the latter; add thereto one-sixth pint of cream
and one-sixth pint of velout^, and rub through tammy.

Reduce this sauce to a stiff consistence; finish it, away from
the fire, with one and one-half oz. of butter, the juice of the
quarter of a lemon, and a tablespoonful of Madeira, and pour
it over the fowl.

Set about ten slices of truffle on the latter, and serve.

1534— POULET 5AUT6 ARL^SIENNE

Saute the chicken in oil, and withdraw the pieces.

Swill with one-quarter pint of white wine; add a piece of
crushed garlic as large as a pea, one-sixth pint of tomated half-
glaze sauce, and reduce by a third. Dish the chicken, and
surround with alternate heaps of onion and egg-plant roundels,
seasoned, dredged, and fried in oil, and concussed tomatoes
cooked in butter.

1535— POULET SAUTE ARMAQNAC

Cook the pieces of chicken in butter without colouration ; add
thereto three and one-half oz. of raw slices of truffle, and dish
in a shallow cocotte.

Swill with a small glassful of old liqueur brandy; add a few

K K

498 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

drops of lemon juice and one-sixth pint of cream; heat; finish
this sauce, away from the fire, with two oz. of crayfish butter,
and pour it over the fowl.
Serve in the cocotte.

,536_POULET SAUT6 D'ARTOIS

Saute the chicken in butter, and dish the pieces.

Swill with three tablespoonfuls of Madeira, and add one-
seventh pint of light, pale meat glaze, four small quartered
artichoke-bottoms, tossed in butter, ten carrots shaped like
olives, cooked in consomm^ and glazed, and eight small onions
cooked in butter.

Finish with one and one-half oz. of butter and a pinch of
chopped chives, and pour thi^ sauce over the pieces of fowl.

•537— POULET SAUTE BEAULIEU

Saute the chicken in butter, and add to it five oz. of new
potatoes (the size of hazel-nuts) and the same quantity of
small quartered artichoke-bottoms, cooked in butter beforehand
with the potatoes.

Keep the whole in the oven, under cover, for ten minutes.

Set the pieces of fowl, the potatoes and the artichoke-
bottoms in an earthenware saucepan, and add twelve black
olives.

Swill the saucepan with a few tablespoonfuls of white wine
and a little lemon juice ; complete with a tablespoonful of veal
stock, and pour into the cocotte.

Simmer for five minutes, in the utensil, and serve the pre-
paration as it stands.

1538— POULET SAUT6 BORDELAISE

Saute the chicken in butter, and dish it. Surround it with
small quartered artichoke-bottoms stewed in butter; sliced
potatoes cooked in butter, and roundels of fried onions, arranged
in small heaps, with a small tuft of fried parsley between each
heap.

Swill the saucepan with a few tablespoonfuls of chicken
gravy, and sprinkle the fowl with the latter.

•539— POULET SAUTE BOIVIN

Fry the chicken in butter and add twelve small onions ; three
quartered artichokes, small and very tender; twenty-four small
potatoes of the size of hazel-nuts. Cover and cook the whole
together, in the oven.

Dish the chicken with the onions and potatoes over it, and
surround it with the artichokes.

POULTRY 499

Swill the saucepan with two tablespoonfuls of consomin^ ;
add three tablespoonfuls of pale glaze, a few drops of lemon
juice, and one and one-half oz. of butter; and pour this sauce
over the chicken.

1540— POULET SAUT6 BRETONNE

Stiffen the pieces without colouring them, and add thereto
three oz. of the white of a leek and the half of an onion,
both sliced and stewed in butter beforehand. Cover and set in
the oven.

About five minutes before the fowl is quite cooked, add
three oz. of mushrooms, minced raw and tossed in butter.

Dish the pullet, add one-sixth pint of supreme sauce and
as much cream to the vegetables; reduce to half, and pour the
sauce and the vegetables over the chicken.

1541— POULET SAUT6 AUX CEPES

Sauti the chicken in oil. When it is cooked, drain away
the oil, dish it; heat three chopped shallots in the saut^pan ;
swill with one-quarter pint of white wine ; reduce, and complete
with one and one-half oz. of butter.

Pour this sauce over the chicken, and surround the latter
with eight oz. of cepes, sauted k la Bordelaise.

Sprinkle a pinch of chopped parsley over the chicken.

1543— POULET SAUTE CHAMPEAUX

Saute the chicken in butter; dish it, and surround it with
small onions and potatoes (the size of hazel-nuts), both cooked
in butter beforehand. Swill with a little white wine ; add one-
sixth pint of veal gravy and one tablespoonful of meat glaze;
reduce; finish with one and one-half oz. of butter; and pour this
sauce over the chicken.

1543— POULET SAUTE CHASSEUR

Saute the chicken in equal quantities of butter and oil, and
dish it. Swill the saucepan with a few tablespoonfuls of white
wine, and reduce; add one-quarter pint of Chasseur Sauce
Escoffier; heat; pour over the chicken, and sprinkle the latter
with a pinch of concussed parsley.

1544— POULET SAUTE CYNTHIA

Saute the chicken in butter and dish it.

Swill the saucepan with a glass of dry champagne ; reduce
to half; add one tablespoonful of light poultry glaze; finish
with two and one-half oz. of butter, the juice of half a lemon,
and one tablespoonful of dry cura9ao; pour this sauce over
the chicken.

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Soo GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

Surround the latter with three oz. of grapes, cleared of all
skin and pips, and ten sections of an orange, peeled in suchwise
that the pulp of the fruit is raw.

1545— POULET 5AUTE DEMIDOFF

Colour the chicken in butter; add the vegetable garnish given
for " Poularde k la Demidoff " (1464), and put the two to stew
in the oven. About ten minutes before the cooking is com-
pleted, add two oz. of truffles, cut to the shape of crescents like
the carrots and turnips, and three tablespoonfuls of good veal
stock.

Dish the pieces of chicken, and cover them with the garnish.

1546— POULET SAUT6 A LA DORIA

Colour the pieces of chicken in oil and butter; add thereto
one-half lb. of cucumber cut to the shape of garlic cloves; and
complete the cooking by stewing in the oven.

Dish the chicken with the cucumber upon it. Swill the
saucepan with one tablespoonful of veal gravy and a few drops
of lemon juice; and sprinkle the chicken and its garnish with
this swilling-liquor, to which add one and one-half oz. of brown
butter.

IS47— POULET SAUT6 A LA DURAND

Dredge the seasoned pieces of chicken, and toss them in oil.

Dish them in the form of a crown ; garnish their midst with
a fine heap of roundels of fried onion ; and, in the centre of
the latter, set a cone, made from a very thin slice of ham and
filled with concassed tomatoes cooked in butter.

1548— POULET SAUTE A L'^QYPTIENNE

Colour the pieces of chicken in oil. Toss in oil,
together, three oz. of onion, and two oz. of mushrooms, sliced;
and six oz. of raw ham, cut into dice.

Set the pieces of chicken in a cocotte, alternating them with
the garnish, which should have been well-drained; cover with
two tomatoes, cut into thick slices; cover the cocotte, and com-
plete the cooking in the oven for twenty minutes.

When about to serve, sprinkle with a tablespoonful of veal
stock.

1549— POULET SAUTE A L'ESPAQNOLE

Saute the chicken in oil. Drain the latter away, and add
one-half lb. of pilaff rice, combined with one and one-half oz.
of capsicums in dice; three oz. of large green peas, cooked a
I'anglaise, and two sliced and poached sausages.

POULTRY 5QI

Cover the sautepati, and set the whole to stew in the oven
for ten minutes.

Dish the chicken ; cover it with the garnish, and surround
it with six small grilled tomatoes.

1550— POULET SAUTE A L'ESTRAQON

Toss the chicken in butter, and dish it.

Swill the saut^pan with one-sixth pint of white wine; reduce
to half ; add one-sixth pint of gravy in which tarragon has been
infused, and thicken with arrowroot.

Pour this sauce over the chicken, and decorate its wings
with sprays of parboiled tarragon leaves.

1551— POULET SAUTE FEDORA

Saute the chicken in butter, without colouration, with four
oz. of raw, sliced truffles; and dish.

Swill with one-sixth pint of cream ; add three tablespoonfuls
of Bechamel sauce, and reduce to half. Finish, away from the
fire, with one and one-half oz. of crayfish butter, a few drops
of lemon juice, and a little cayenne; add four oz. of parboiled
asparagus-heads to this sauce, and pour it over the chicken.
Or, after having cohered them with butter, the asparagus-heads
may be arranged in heaps round the fowl.

1552— POULET SAUT^ AU FENOUIL

Saute the chicken in butter, without colouration ; swill with
cream; add three quartered tuberose fennels, trimmed to the
shape of garlic cloves and parboiled, and complete the cooking
of the fennels and the chicken, together.

Set the pieces of fennel in the form of a crown on a special
earthenware dish, and put the chicken in their midst, placing the
pieces side by side. Coat with Mornay sauce, flavoured with
chicken essence, and set to glaze.

1553— POULET SAUTE A LA FERMlfeRE

Slice three oz. of the red part of a carrot, the same quantity
of turnip, two oz. of celery, and half an onion. Season with
a little salt and sugar, and half-stew in butter.

Brown the pieces of chicken in butter; put them in the
cocotte with the garnish of vegetables; add thereto two and one-
half oz. of ham cut into dice, and complete the cooking of both
the chicken and the vegetables, in the oven.

When about to serve, sprinkle with four or five tablespoon-
fuls of veal stock.

502 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

1554— POULET SAUT^ AUX FINES HERBES

Saute the chicken in butter, and two minutes before dishing
it, sprinkle it with one-half oz. of chopped shallots. Swill the
saut^pan with one-sixth pint of white wine; reduce; add three
tablespoonfuls of strong, veal gravy and as much half-glaze
sauce; and finish the sauce, away from the fire, with one and
one-half oz. of butter and a coffeespoonful of chopped parsley,
chervil, and tarragon. Pour it over the chicken.

1555— POULET SAUTE FORESTIBRE

Saute the chicken in butter; sprinkle it with a table-
spoonful of chopped shallots; add five oz. of quartered morels;
stew in the oven for ten minutes, and dish the chicken.

Swill with white wine; add one-sixth pint of veal stock;
reduce, and pour over the chicken with the morels. Surround
with four small heaps of potatoes, cut into large dice and tossed
in butter; put a rectangle of frizzled bacon between each heap,
and sprinkle a pinch of chopped parsley over the chicken.

1556— POULET SAUTE QABRIELLE

Saute the chicken in butter, without colouration, and dish it.

Swill with one-eighth pint of mushroom cooking-liquor; add
three tablespoonfuls of Bechamel sauce, and three tablespoonfuls
of cream ; reduce, and finish the sauce, away from the fire, with
one and one-half oz. of butter.

Pour this sauce over the chicken ; sprinkle on it some very
black truffle, cut julienne-fashion, and surround it with little
leaves of puff-paste, baked white.

1557— POULET SAUTE QEORGINA

Saute the pullet in butter with twelve small new onions and
a small faggot, containing a sprig of fennel. Dish the chicken.

Swill with three tablespoonfuls of mushroom cooking-liquor
and as much Rhine wine; add one-fifth pint of cream; twelve
mushroom-heads, sliced; and reduce the cream to half.

Complete with a pinch of chopped chervil and tarragon, and
pour over the chicken.

1558— POULET SAUT6 HONQROISE

Prepare a sufficient quantity of pilaff rice, combined with
concassed tomatoes, to make a border.

Saute the chicken in butter, without colouration, with a
chopped half-onion and a little paprika. When the onion is
slightly coloured, add three peeled and quartered tomatoes, and

POULTRY 503

complete the cooking of the whole. Mould the rice to form a
border, and set the chicken in the middle.

Add one-sixth pint of cream to the tomatoes ; reduce to half ;
rub through tammy; heat this sauce, and pour it over the
chicken .

1559— POULET SAUTl^ A L'INDIENNE
OU CURRIE DE POULET

Cut the chicken into small pieces, and fry them in oil with
a sliced onion and a large pinch of curry. Swill with one-sixth
pint of cocoanut milk or, failing this, almond milk; add one-
third pint of velout6, and complete the cooking of the chicken
while reducing the sauce to half. Set in a deep dish, and serve
a timbale of rice k I'lndienne separately.

1560— POULET 5AUTE JAPONAISE

Fry the chicken in butter; add one lb. of cleaned and par-
boiled stachys and complete the cooking of the whole, chicken
and stachys, in the oven.

Dish the chicken with the stachys upon it. Swill with one-
sixth pint of slightly thickened veal stock ; complete, away from
the fire, with one and one-half oz. of butter, and pour this over
the chicken.

1561— POULET SAUTE JURA5SIENNE

Saute the chicken in butter and, when it is ready, add to
it one-half lb. of blanched breast of fresh pork, cut into strips
and well fried in butter. Drain away three-quarters of the
chicken's grease; swill with one-sixth pint of light half-glaze
sauce, and dish the chicken.

Complete the sauce with a pinch of chopped chives, and
pour it over the chicken with the strips of bacon.

1562— POULET 5AUT6 LATHUILE

Heat three oz. of butter in a sautdpan, just large enough to
hold the chicken and its garnish. Set the pieces of chicken in
this butter, together with one-half lb. of potatoes and five oz.
of raw artichoke-bottoms, both cut into fair-sized dice.

When the chicken and the vegetables are coloured under-
neath, turn the whole over at one stroke and complete the
cooking on the other side; sprinkle the chicken with three
tablespoonfuls of meat glaze and a pinch of chopped parsley
containing a mite of crushed garlic, and set the chicken and the
garnish on a dish, after the manner of " Pommes Anna."

Pour two and one-half. oz. of nut-brown butter over the
whole, and surround with roundels of seasoned onions, dredged

504 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

and fried in oil, and very green, fried parsley, arranged in alter-
nate heaps.

,563— POULET SAUTE LYONNAISE

Saut^ the chicken in butter and, when it is half-cooked, add
three fair-sized onions, finely sliced, tossed in butter and slightly
coloured.

Complete the cooking of the chicken and the onions together,
and dish the former. Swill with one-sixth pint of veal gravy;
reduce; pour this liquor and the onions over the chicken, and
sprinkle the whole with a pinch of chopped parsley.

1564— POULET SAUTE MARENGO

Saute the chicken in oil. Swill the saut^pan with white wine;
add two peeled and concussed tomatoes, or one and one-half
tablespoonfuls of tomato pur^e, a mite of crushed garlic, ten
small mushrooms, and ten slices of truffle.

Dish the chicken ; cover it with sauce and garnish ; surround
it with heart-shaped croutons, fried in butter ; small, fried eggs,
and trussed crayfish cooked in court-bouillon, and sprinkle the
whole with a pinch of concussed parsley.

1565— POULET SAUTE MARYLAND

Season the pieces of chicken; dip them in butter; roll them
in bread-crumbs, and cook them in clarified butter. Dish,
placing a slice of grilled bacon between each piece of chicken ;
surround with small, fried galettes of maize flour, and fried
slices of banana.

Serve a horse-radish sauce with cream, separately.

1566— POULET SAUTE MARSEILLAISE

Saute the chicken in oil, and, when it is half-cooked, add
thereto two crushed cloves of garlic; three oz. of ciseled, green
capsicums, and the same weight of quartered tomatoes — all three
tossed in oil.

When the chicken is cooked, drain away the oil ; swill the
pan with one-sixth pint of white wine and a few drops of lemon
juice, and reduce almost entirely.

Dish the chicken ; cover it with the garnish, and sprinkle
with a pinch of concussed parsley.

1567— POULET SAVTt, MEXICAINE

Saute the chicken in oil; swill the saut^pan with a few
tablespoonfuls of white wine; reduce, and add one-sixth pint
of tomat^d veal gravy.

POULTRY 505

Dish the chicken ; pour the sauce over it, and surround it
with grilled capsicums and mushrooms, garnished with con-
cassed tomatoes cooked in butter.

1568— POULET SAUTE MIREILLE

Saute the chicken in oil and add to it, when half-cooked,
one chopped onion, four concassed tomatoes, and one pimento
cut into dice. Ten minutes before serving, flavour with a small
piece of crushed garlic.

Dish the chicken ; pour the juice of the tomatoes into the
saut^pan ; reduce to half, and strain over the chicken.

Serve a timbale of rice, flavoured with saffron, separately.

1569— POULET SAUTE AUX MORILLES

Colour the chicken in butter and three-parts cook it; add
to it two-thirds lb. of morels, stewed in butter, and complete
the cooking of the chicken, under cover, in the oven.

Dish the chicken with the morels upon it ; swill the saut^pan
with a tablespoonful of brandy; add thereto the juice of the
morels, two tablespoonfuls of meat glaze, and one and one-
half oz. of butter, and pour this sauce over the chicken.

1570— POULET SAUTE NORMANDE

Hali-saute the chicken in butter, and set the pieces in a
cocotte with one lb, of peeled and sliced russet apples. Swill
with a small glassful of liqueur cider; put this liquor in the
cocotte ; cover, and set in the oven, that the chicken may be
completely cooked and the apples as well.

Serve the preparation, as it stands, in the cocotte.

1571— POULET SAUTE PARMENTIER

Brown the chicken in butter, and add one lb. of potatoes,
raised by means of an oval spoon-cutter, or cut into large dice,
and already slightly frizzled in butter.

Complete the cooking in the oven, and dish the chicken with
the potatoes arranged in heaps all round. Swill with a few
tablespoonfuls of white wine; add to it a tablespoonful of veal
gravy; pour this over the chicken, and sprinkle the latter with
a pinch of chopped parsley.

1572— POULET SAUT6 PIEMONTAISE

Saut^ the chicken in butter and dish it.

Swill with a few tablespoonfuls of white wine ; add thereto a
tablespoonful of melted pale meat glaze, and pour this over
the chicken. Sprinkle it at the last moment with two oz. of

5o6 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

nut-brown butter, and finally with chopped parsley, and serve
a timbale of rizotto with white truffles separately.

1573— POULET SAUTE PORTUGAISE

Saute the chicken in butter and oil, and dish it. Drain away
a portion of the butter used in the cooking, add to the remainder
a mite of crushed garlic and a chopped half-onion ; and, when
the latter is fried, add four oz. of peeled and concussed tomatoes,
two oz. of sliced mushrooms, a few drops of white wine, and
a pinch of concussed parsley.

Complete the cooking of the whole, taking care to reduce
all moisture.

Cover the chicken with its garnish, and surround it with half-
tomatoes or tomatoes stuffed with rice.

1574— POULET 5AUTE PROVEN^ALE

Saute the chicken in oil and dish it. Swill with white wine
and add thereto a mite of crushed garlic, three oz. of con-
cassed tomatoes, four anchovy fillets cut into dice, twelve black
olives stoned and parboiled, and a pinch of chopped sweet basil.

Leave the whole to simmer for five minutes, and cover the
chicken with it.

1575— POULET SAUTE STANLEY

Colour the chicken in butter, and complete its cooking under
cover with one-half lb. of minced onions. Dish it in a flat,
earthenware cocotte, setting a heap of mushrooms on either side
of it; add one-third pint of cream to the onions; simmer for
ten minutes; rub through tammy, and reduce.

Finish this sauce with one oz. of butter, a little curry, and
pour it over the chicken.

Set ten slices of truffle on the latter.

1576— POULET SAUTE AUX TRUFFES

Half-saute the chicken in butter; add six oz. of raw
truffles, cut into slices, and complete the cooking under cover.
Dish ; swill with a few tablespoonfuls of Madeira ; reduce ; add
three tablespoonfuls of half-glaze sauce; finish with one and
one-half oz. of butter, and pour this sauce over the chicken.

1577— POULET SAUTE VAN DYCK

Cook the chicken in butter without letting it brown; swill
with one-sixth pint of cream; add one-sixth pint of supreme
sauce, and reduce by a third.

Mix one-half lb. of young parboiled hop-sprouts to the

POULTRY 507

sauce ; simmer for two minutes, and pour over the chicken, which
should be dished in a cocotte.

1578— POULET SAUTE VICHY

Colour the chicken in butter; add one-half lb. of half-cooked
carrots a la Vichy (No. 2061) to it, and complete the cooking
of the chicken and the carrots under cover in the oven.

Swill with a few tablespoonf uls of veal stock ; dish the
pullet, and cover it with the garnish of carrots.

•579— POULET SAUT^ VERDI

Prepare a border of rizotto k la Pi^montaise.

Saute the chicken in butter; set it in the centre of the
border, and on the latter arrange a crown of slices of foie gras,
tossed in butter, alternated with slices of truffle, resting against
the chicken.

Swill with Asti wine; reduce; add three tablespoonf uls of
veal stock and one and one-half oz. of butter, and pour this
sauce over the pieces of chicken.

1580— FILETS. 1581— SUPREMES. 1582— COTE LETTES

1583— AILERONS OF CHICKEN

The terms " Fillet " and " Supreme " are synonymous, and
either one or the other may be used for variety to express
the same thing on a menu. They are names given to the
breast of the fowl, divided into two along the sternum, and
cleared of all skin. Each fillet or supreme comprises the large
and the minion fillets.

When supremes are taken from a small chicken, the minion
fillets are not removed; if the chicken be an ordinary one or
a pullet, the minion fillets are removed, cleared of all tendons,
and twisted into rings or crescents, after having been contised
with slices of truffle tliat are half-inserted into the little incisions,
made at regular intervals in the meat with the point of a knife.

Prepared in this way, these fillets are generally included in
the garnish of the supremes. Chicken ailerons and cutlets
(the latter must not be mistaken for those prepared from cooked
meat and which are only a kind of croquette) are suprimes to
which the humerus-bone of the wing is left adhering.

Cutlets are always cut from such fowls as chickens k la
Reine, or very fleshy, spring chickens. The same rule applies
to suprimes : though, sometimes, the latter are cut from pullets.
But, in that case, as they would be too large, they are cut into
three or four very regular pieces, which are slightly flattened,-
and trimmed to the shape of hearts or ovals ; except when they
have to be stuffed.

5o8 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

In the latter case, they are opened in the thickness, by means
of the point of a small knife, to form sacks; and, in the
resulting interstice the selected stuffing is inserted, with the
help of a piping-bag fitted with a little, even pipe, and in a
sufficient quantity to fill out the supremes well.

Supremes and cutlets are always cooked without liquor, or
almost so ; for should any moistening liquid even approach the
boil, it would immediately harden them. If they be desired
poached, it would be best to cook the whole fowl, and cut them
from the latter when it is cooked.

This is how they are prepared, according as to whether they
be required colourless or sauted; though the brown method of
preparing them is applied more particularly to cutlets.

Cutlets or supremes sauted : Season them with salt ; roll
them in flour; set them in a vegetable pan containing some very
hot clarified butter, and quickly gild them on both sides. These
pieces of fowl are so tender that they are cooked and gilded at
the same moment of time.

Cutlets or supremes prepared without colouration : Season
them, and set them in a vegetable-pan, containing some fresh,
melted, unclarified butter. Roll the supremes in this butter;
add a few drops of lemon juice ; thoroughly seal the vegetable-
pan, and put it in a very hot oven.

A few minutes suffice for the poaching of the suprSmes,
which are known to be ready when they seem resilient to the
touch, and are perfectly white.

Important Remarks : Chicken Supremes or cutlets should
never be allowed to wait, lest they harden. They should be
cooked quickly, at the last moment; dished and served imme-
diately. The shortest wait is enough to spoil them, and to make
an insipid and dry preparation of what should be an exquisite
dish.

N.B. — The recipes given hereafter for supremes may of
course be applied to fillets, cutlets, ailerons, blanc de poulet,
&c.

1584— SUPRlfeMES DE VOLAILLE AGNES SOREL

Line some oval buttered tartlet-moulds with mousseline
forcemeat. Upon the latter, put some raw, sliced mushrooms,
tossed in butter; cover with forcemeat so as to fill the mould,
and poach in the bain-marie.

Turn out in a circle on a round dish ; put a poached supreme
on each tartlet; coat with Allemande sauce; deck with a truffle
girt by a ring of very red tongue, and surround the supreme
with a thread of pale, meat glaze.

POULTRY 509

1585— SUPR^MES DE VOLAILLE ALEXANDRA

Poach the supremes dry. Dish them with a few slices of
truffle set upon them; coat them with Mornay sauce, flavoured
with chicken essence, and glaze quickly. Surround with small
heaps of asparagus-heads, cohered with butter.

1586— SUPREMES DE VOLAILLE AMBAS5ADRICE

Poach the supremes dry. Dish them ; coat them with
supreme sauce, and surround them with lamb sweetbreads,
studded with truffles and cooked without colouration, alternated
with faggots of asparagus-heads.

1587— SUPREMES DE VOLAILLE ARL^SIENNE

Season and dredge the supremes, and toss them in clarified
butter.

Meanwhile, fry in oil some egg-plant roundels and some
seasoned and dredged roundels of onion. Also prepare a
garnish of tomatoes tossed in oil. Dish the egg-plant roundels
in a circle on a round dish ; set the supremes thereon, and gar-
nish the latter with the tossed tomatoes and the fried onions,
set in small heaps upon them.

Serve a delicate, tomat^d half-glaze sauce separately.

1588— SUPREMES DE VOLAILLE BOISTELLE

Cut the supremes into heart shapes, and stuff them with
mousseline forcemeat combined with half its bulk of mashed raw
mushrooms.

Put the supremes in a buttered vegetable-pan, with two-thirds
lb. of peeled, minced, raw mushrooms; season with salt, white
pepper and lemon juice, and set to poach slowly in a moderate
oven.

Dish in the form of a crown, in a timbale, with the mush-
rooms in the centre.

Add to the liquor, which should only consist of the moisture
of the mushrooms, two and one-half oz. of butter and a few
drops of lemon juice ; pour this sauce over the supremes, and
complete with a pinch of chopped parsley.

1589— SUPREMES DE VOLAILLE AUX
CHAMPIGNONS, A BLANC

Poach the supremes in a little mushroom cooking-liquor.

Dish them in the form of a crown, with some fine very white
cooked mushroom-heads. Coat them moderately with Alle-
mande sauce, combined with the cooking-liquor of the
supremes.

Serve what remains of the sauce separately.

5IO GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

1590— SUPR^MES DE VOLAILLE AUX
CHAMPIGNONS, A BRUN

Cook the supremes in clarified butter, as already described.

Dish them ; surround them with mushrooms, minced raw and

tossed in butter, and coat them with a light mushroom sauce.

1591— 5UPRfeMES DE VOLAILLE CHIMAY

Cook the supremes in clarified butter.

Dish them ; garnish them with tossed morels and asparagus-
heads, cohered with butter, and surround with a thread of good
thickened gravy.

1592— SUPREMES DE VOLAILLE CUSSY

Collop the supremes ; slightly flatten each collop ; trim them
round, dredge them, and toss them in butter.

Set each collop of supreme upon an artichoke-bottom about
equal in size to the former; put a thick slice of glazed trufHe
on each collop, and a very white cock's kidney upon each
slice of trufHe.

Serve a thickened gravy separately.

1593— -SUPREMES DE VOLAILLE DORIA

Season and dredge the supremes, and toss them quickly in
clarified butter. Dish them and surround them with pieces
of cucumber, shaped like garlic cloves and cooked in butter.

When about to serve, sprinkle them with a little nut-brown
butter, and a few drops of lemon juice.

1594— 5UPR6mES DE VOLAILLE DREUX

Make some incisions, at short intervals, in the supremes,
and half-insert into these, alternate roundels of truffle and salted
tongue. Poach them dry. Dish; surround with a garnish of
cocks' combs and kidneys, and slices of truffle, and pour a
moderate quantity of Allemande sauce over this garnish.

1595— -SUPREMES DE VOLAILLE ECARLATE

Incise the supremes as above; but garnish them only with
roundels of tongue. Poach them dry, and set them on oval,
flat quenelles of mousseline forcemeat, sprinkled with very red
chopped tongue.

Coat with clear supreme sauce, that the red of the tongue
may be seen.

1596— SUPRfeMES DE VOLAILLE EC0SSAI5E

Poach the supremes.

Dish them; coat them with Ecossaise sauce, and surround
them with small heaps of French beans, cohered with butter.

POULTRY 511

1597— supr6mes de volaille favorite

Saute the supremes in clarified butter.

Dish them in a crown, on tossed slices of foie gras, with
three slices of truffle on each supreme.

In their midst set a heap of asparagus-heads, cohered with
butter, and serve, separately, a sauceboat of light meat-glaze,
buttered.

1598— SUPRfiMES DE VOLAILLE FINANCIERE

Saute the supremes in clarified butter.

Dish them in the form of a crown, upon fried croutons of
the same size ; in their midst arrange a garnish k la financi^re
(No. 1474), and coat the supremes and their garnish with
financi^re sauce.

1599— SUPREMES DE VOLAILLE AUX FONDS

D'ARTICHAUTS

Saute the supremes in clarified butter.

Dish them with a garnish of raw artichoke-bottoms, sliced,
tossed in butter, and sprinkled with fine herbs. Sprinkle a
few drops of nut-brown butter over the supremes, and serve a
thickened gravy separately.

1600— SUPREMES DE VOLAILLE GEORGETTE

Prepare as many ' ' pommes Georgette ' ' as there are
supremes, and take care to choose potatoes of the same size as
the supremes.

Poach the supremes. Set one on each potato, with a fine
slice of truffle in the middle, and arrange in the form of a crown
on a round dish.

1601— SUPREMES DE VOLAILLE HENRI IV.

Collop the supremes; slightly flatten the collops, and trim
them round. Season and dredge them ; saute them in clarified
butter, and set each collop on an artichoke bottom, slightly
garnished with buttered meat-glaze.

Serve a B^arnaise sauce separately.

1602— SUPREMES DE VOLAILLE HONGROISE

Prepare some pilaff rice, combined with concassed tomatoes,
and dish it in a shallow timbale.

Season the supremes with Paprika; toss them in clarified
butter, and set them in a timbale, upon the pilaff rice.

Swill the vegetable-pan with a few tablespoonfuls of cream ;
add the necessary quantity of Hongroise sauce, and coat the
supremes with this sauce.

512 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

1603— SUPR^MES DE VOLAILLE A L'INDIENNE

Saute the sufremes in butter, and put them for a few
minutes in a curry sauce a I'lndienne, but without letting the
latter boil.

Dish the supremes in a timbale with the curry sauce.

Serve a timbale of rice k I'lndienne, separately.

1604— SUPREMES DE VOLAILLE JARDINIERE

Saute the stipremcs in butter. Dish and surround with small
heaps of vegetables, arranged very neatly, as explained in the
case of the Jardiniere garnish.

Sprinkle the supremes with a few drops of nut-brown
butter, just before serving.

1605— SUPREMES DE VOLAILLE JUDIC

Cut the supremes into heart shapes; season them, and poach
them dry.

Dish them in a crown, upon little braised lettuces; and set
a slice of truffle and a cock's kidney upon each heart of supreme.
Coat slightly with thickened gravy.

1606— SUPREMES DE VOLAILLE MAR^CHALE

It is the rule that all preparations termed " ^ la Mar^chale "
should be treated with chopped truffle ; that is to say that the
latter takes the place of the customary bread-crumbs.

For the sake of economy the a I'anglaise treatment (i.e., egg
and bread-crumbs) is more commonly applied ; so the reader
may choose which of the two he prefers. In any case, saute
the supremes in butter; dish them in the form of a crown, with
a fine slice of truffle on each, and set in their midst a garnish
of asparagus-heads, cohered with butter.

N.B. — Formerly, these supremes, like all preparations " k
la Mar^chale," were gently grilled upon buttered paper.

1607— SUPREMES DE VOLAILLE MARYLAND

Proceed exactly as directed under " Poulet saut^ h la Mary-
land " (No. 1565).

1608— SUPREMES DE VOLAILLE MONTPENSIER

Roll the supremes in beaten egg and bread-crumbs, and
saute them in clarified butter. Dish them in a crown with a
slice of truffle upon each, and surround with small heaps of
asparagus-heads, cohered with butter.

Sprinkle the supremes with a few drops of nut-brown butter.

POULTRY 513

1609— SUPRfeMES DE VOLAILLE ORLY

Take some supremes of chicken k la Reine, and set them
on a dish with parsley stalks and finely sliced onions; sprinkle
with a little oil and lemon juice, and set to marinade for an
hour.

When about to prepare them, dry them by means of a piece
of linen; dip them into light batter, and put them in a very
hot frying fat that they may cook quickly.

Drain ; dish on a napkin with bunches or a border of very
green fried parsley, and serve a tomato sauce separately.

i6 10— SUPREMES DE VOLAILLE A L'ORIENTALE

Saute the supremes in butter, and dish them each upon a
thick slice of chow-chow, cut to the same shape, parboiled, and
stewed in butter beforehand. Coat with Supreme sauce, com-
bined with a quarter of its bulk of tomato pur^e, and flavoured
moderately with saffron.

161 1— SUPREMES DE VOLAILLE EN PAPILLOTE

Cut out as many heart-shaped pieces of kitchen paper as
there are supremes, and either butter or oil them.

Quickly stiffen the supremes in butter. In the centre of each
paper heart, set a slice of ham cut to the shape of a triangle ;
cover the ham with a tablespoonful of reduced Italienne sauce ;
set the supremes on the sauce, and cover it with the same sauce
and another triangle of ham. Close the pieces of paper, and
pleat their edges in such wise as to entirely enclose their con-
tents ; set the papillotes, thus prepared, on a tray ; and put them
in a sufficiently hot oven to allow of completing the cooking of
the supremes and blowing out the papillotes.

1612— SUPREMES DE VOLAILLE AU PARMESAN

Season the supremes ; dip them in beaten egg and roll them
in grated Parmesan. Saute them in butter, and dish them on
croutons of polenta (No. 2294), shaped somewhat like the
supremes and browned in clarified butter. When about to
serve, sprinkle the supremes with nut-brown butter.

1 6 13— SUPREMES DE VOLAILLE A LA POLIQNAC

Poach the supremes dry, and dish them.
Coat them with Supreme sauce, combined with a julienne of
truffles and mushrooms.

1614— SUPREMES DE VOLAILLE A LA POJARSKI

Mince tfie supremes, and, in so doing, combine with them,
first, the quarter of their weight of bread-crumbs dipped in milk

L L

514 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

and well squeezed, and the same weight of fresh butter; and
then an equal quantity of fresh cream, which should be added
little by little. Season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg.

Divide up this preparation into portions equal in size to the
supremes, and shape them exactly like the latter; in short,
reconstruct the supremes exactly with this mince-meat.

Dredge; cook in clarified butter, and serve as soon as
ready.

There is no hard and fast rule for the garnishing of these
supremes; the garnish is therefore optional.

i6is— SUPREMES DE VOLAILLE R^QENCE

Cut the supremes into heart shapes; flatten them slightly,
and poach them. Set each supreme on a quenelle of chicken
forcemeat, prepared with crayfish butter, and dish in the form
of a crown. Coat with Allemande sauce, flavoured with truffle
essence, and, on each supreme, set an olive-shaped truffle and
a cock's kidney — the two separated by a cock's comb.

1616— SUPREMES DE VOLAILLE RICHELIEU

Treat the supremes a I'anglaise, and cook them in clarified
butter.

Dish them ; coat them with half-melted butter k la Maitre
d'h6tel, and set four fine slices of truffle on each supreme.

1 6 17— SUPREMES DE VOLAILLE ROSSINI

Saute the supremes in butter, and dish them on collops
of foie gras, arranged in the form of a crown and also tossed
in butter. Coat with a strong Madeira sauce, combined with
slices of truffle.

1618— SUPREMES DE VOLAILLE TALLEYRAND

Prepare : — (i) a croustade of lining paste, of a size in propor-
tion to the garnish to be put inside it, just as the garnish
should be in proportion to the number of supremes : — (2) a
garnish of macaroni with cream, combined with three oz. of foie
gras and three oz. of truffles in dice, per one-half lb. of
macaroni.

Cut the supremes to the shape of hearts; stuff them with
godiveau with cream (No. 198), mixed with half its bulk of a
pur6e of foie gras, and poach them dry.

Put the macaroni in the croustade, shaping it like a dome
in so doing; coat the supremes with Allemande sauce, and set
them in a crown on the timbale and round the dome of
macaroni.

Send a sauceboat of velout6 to the table separately.

POULTRY 515

1619— SUPR^MES DE VOLAILLE VALEN^AY

Stuff the supremes with truffles, cut into small dice and
cohered with very reduced Allemande sauce. Treat them a
I'anglaise and cook them in butter.

Prepare some fried croutons, shaped like cocks' combs, in
the proportion of two for each supreme ; cover these with a
dome of fine truffled forcemeat, and put them in a moderate oven
that the forcemeat may poach.

Dish the supremes in the form of a crown ; surround them
with the croutons; and, in their midst, pour a pur^e of mush-
rooms.

1620— SUPREMES DE VOLAILLE A LA VALOIS

Treat the supremes a I'anglaise, and cook them in clarified
butter.

Dish them with a garnish of small, stoned olives, stuffed
and poached at the last moment.

Serve a Valois sauce separately.

1621— SUPR6mES DE VOLAILLE VERNEUIL

Marinade the supremes as for No. 1609; treat them d
I'anglaise, and cook them in clarified butter. Dish them in
the form of a crown, and coat them with Colbert sauce.

Serve separately a pur^e of artichokes, combined with finely-
minced truffles.

1622— SUPREMES DE VOLAILLE VILLEROV

Poach the supremes without completely cooking them.

Dip them in a Villeroy sauce, in such wise that they may be
well coated with it. Leave them to cool ; treat them a I'anglaise ;
and, a few minutes before serving, put them in some very hot
frying fat. Dish them in the form of a crown, and serve a
P^rigueux sauce separately.

1623— BLANC DE POULET l&LISABETH

Raise the supremes of two small chickens; poach them in
butter and lemon juice, and coat them with Supreme sauce.

Dish them around a low, very cold cushion of bread, placed
on the dish at the last moment. Upon the cushion, quickly set
a dozen shelled oysters, which should have been kept in ice
for at least two hours before dishing.

Serve very quickly in order that the supremes may be very
hot and the oysters very cold. Send a Supreme sauce sepa-
rately.

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5i6 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

634— TURBAN DE FILETS DE POULET

Take the required number of fillets, which is determined
by the size of the mould to be used. Flatten these fillets out
somewhat thinly, and trim them neatly on both sides.

With these fillets, line a buttered savarin-moidd ; setting a
row of thin slices of truffle between each of the fillets, and
allowing the latter to hang over the edge of the mould. Over
the fillets spread a layer of mousseline forcemeat, two-thirds in.
thick.

Three-parts fill the remaining space with a large tongue,
truffles and mushrooms salpicon, cohered by means of a reduced
Allemande sauce.

Cover this salpicon with forcemeat, so as to fill the mould,
and then draw the overlapping ends of the fillets across the
forcemeat.

Set to poach in the bain-marie for about forty minutes ; and,
upon withdrawing the mould, let it stand for five minutes,
that its contents may settle. Turn out upon a round dish ; pour
a Toulousaine garnish (see Poularde No. 1524) in the middle,
and surround the turban with a thread of Allemande sauce.

1625— MIGNONNETTES DE POULET

Take the required number of small, minion fillets of pullet ;
trim them ; make six incisions in each, and half-insert into each
of these incisions alternate thin roundels of truffle and tongue.

Set these minion fillets on a buttered dish, and shape them
like rings.

Trim and indent the edges of as many artichoke-bottoms as
there are minion fillets, and heat them in butter. Garnish these
artichoke-bottoms, dome-fashion, with a very white and some-
what stiff chicken pur6e. Sprinkle the minion fillets with a
little mushroom cooking-liquor, and poach them in the oven
for from five to six minutes.

Set the artichoke-bottoms in a circle on a round dish, and
set a minion fillet upon each.

Serve a very delicate Supreme sauce, separately.

1636— NONNETTES DE POULET AGNES SOREL

Truss twelve ortolans for entries, and stiffen them in butter
for a moment.

Raise the fillets of twelve spring chickens ; trim them ; flatten
them slightly and pair them off, putting the edges of one on
the other, that a larger surface may be obtained.

POULTRY 517

In the middle of these joined supremes of chicken, put an
ortolan ; wrap it in them, and tie them round once or twice
with string, that they may keep the shape of a paupiette.

Set these paupiettes in a shallow sautdpan, and, five minutes
before serving, sprinkle them with four oz. of boiling butter;
salt moderately, and cook in a fierce oven.

After having removed the string, set each nonnette on a
square, hollowed crouton of bread-crumb, fried in butter, and
coated inside with foie-gras puree. Coat moderately with a
light chicken glaze, finished with butter, and squeeze a drop
of lemon juice on each nonnette.

1627— URSULINES DE NANCY

Prepare some harquette crusts.

Mould some chicken forcemeat into large, round, regular
quenelles, and poach them in some white consomm^, in time
for them to be ready when the Ursulines are being dished.

A few moments before serving, garnish the harquette crusts
with foie-gras pur^e, thinned with a little good half-glaze,
flavoured with port or sherry wine. In the middle of each gar-
nished harquette, set a well-drained mousseline quenelle; deck
each quenelle with a thin and wide slice of truffle ; set a small
heap of asparagus-heads, cohered with butter, at either end of
the harquettes, that is to say, on either side of the quenelle ; and
slightly coat the latter with chicken glaze, finished with butter.

Serve, separately, a sauceboat containing some of the same
chicken glaze with butter.

1628— FILETS DE POULET A LA SAINT-GERMAIN

Season the fillets, dip them in melted butter and roll them
in bread-crumbs; grill them gently, each on a sheet of oiled
paper, and sprinkle with clarified butter during the operation.

Dish the grilled fillets, and serve at the same time: — (i) a
B6arnaise sauce; (2) a timbale containing a pui6e of foie gras

with cream.

1629— FILETS DE POULET MIREILLE

Prepare a garnish as for No. 1365 ; i.e., sliced, raw potatoes
and artichoke-bottoms, set in a small earthenware dish and
cooked as " Pommes Anna."

Saute the fillets in butter at the last moment; put them on
the garnish, and sprinkle them with nut-brown butter.

5i8 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

SPRING CHICKENS (POULETS DE GRAINS)

Spring chickens are usually either grilled or prepared " en
casserole " in accordance with one or another of the many
recipes applicable to them.

1630— POULET DE GRAINS A LA BELLE-MEUNIBRE

Stuff the chicken with four sliced chickens' livers and three
oz. of raw, quartered mushrooms, slightly tossed in butter.
Slip five or six fine slices of truffle under the skin of the breast;
truss the chicken as for an entree, and brown it in butter.

This done, put it into an oval cocotte, with two oz. of butter,
four rectangles of blanched breast of pork, and three oz. of
raw quartered mushrooms, quickly tossed in butter beforehand.

Cook in the oven, under cover, and add two tablespoonfuls
of veal gravy, just before serving.

1631— POULET DE GRAINS A LA BERQ6RE

Fry in butter four oz. of blanched breast of pork, cut
into dice, and one-half lb. of small, whole mushrooms. Drain,
and set to brown in the same butter, the chicken stuffed with
a half-onion and three oz. of mushrooms, chopped and fried
in butter, and mixed with three oz. of butter and a coffee-
spoonful of chopped parsley.

When the chicken is well coloured or gilded, put the bacon
and the mushrooms round it; swill with one-sixth pint of white
wine; reduce by two-thirds; add four tablespoonfuls of veal
gravy, and complete the cooking of the chicken in the oven.

Set it on a round dish ; thicken the cooking-liquor with a
piece of manied butter, the size of a hazel-nut, or a little arrow-
root; pour the sauce and the garnish round the chicken, and
surround it with a border of freshly-fried straw potatoes.

1632— POULET DE GRAINS BONNE FEMME

Fry in butter four oz. of breast of fresh or salted pork, cut
into slices and blanched. Drain ; colour the chicken in the same
fat, and put it in an oval cocotte with the slices of bacon.

With the same fat, fry in a frying-pan two-thirds lb. of
potatoes cut to the shape of corks and divided into roundels;
put these round the chicken, and set to cook in the oven, under
cover.

When about to serve, sprinkle the fowl with a few table-
spoonfuls of veal gravy.

Serve the preparation in the cocotte.

POULTRY 519

1633— POULET DE GRAINS EN CASSEROLE

Poele the chicken with butter in an earthenware saucepan,
and baste it often the while. When about to serve, clear of all
grease, and add a tablespoonful of veal gravy.

This chicken is served plain, without any garnish.

1634— POULET DE GRAINS EN COCOTTE

Brown the chicken in butter, in a cocotte, and under cover.

When it is half-done, surround it with two oz. of frizzled
pieces of fresh or salted pork cut in dice, twelve small onions
partly cooked in butter, and twenty small potatoes, the size and
shape of olives.

Complete the cooking of the whole together, and, when
about to serve, sprinkle with a little veal gravy.

1635— POULET DE GRAINS CLAMART

Brown the chicken in butter; half-cook it, and put it in a
cocotte with one-half pint of half-cooked peas k la Frangaise
(No. 2193), the cooking-liquor of which should be very short.
Complete the cooking of the whole, together, and serve the pre-
paration as it stands, without cohering the peas.

1636— POULET DE GRAINS GRILLE DIABLE

Truss the chicken as for an entree ; split it open lengthwise
along the middle of the back; flatten it with a butcher's beater,
and remove as many bones as possible. Season it; sprinkle
it with melted butter, and half-cook it in the oven.

This done, coat it thoroughly with mustard strengthened by
means of cayenne; sprinkle copiously with bread-crumbs; press
upon the latter with the flat of a knife, that they may adhere
to the mustard ; sprinkle a little melted butter over the bird, and
complete the latter's cooking gently on the grill.

Set on a round dish, bordered with thin slices of lemon, and
serve a Devilled Sauce Escofiier separately.

1637— POULET DE GRAINS, GRILL^ A L'ANGLAISE

(Spatchcock)
Split the chicken open, laterally, proceeding from the ex-
tremity of the belly to the wing-joints. Open it without separat-
ing the two halves, flatten it so as to break the joints and the
bones, and remove the fragments of the latter with great care.
Fix the wings by means of a skewer; sprinkle the chicken
with melted butter, season it, and half-cook it in the oven.

This done, sprinkle it with bread-crumbs and melted butter,
and complete its cooking on the grill. Set it on a round dish,
bordered with gherkins, and serve it a§ it gtandg.

520 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

1638— POULET DE GRAINS AUX FONDS D'ARTICHAUTS

Brown the chicken in butter, and put it in a cocotte with
five fair-sized artichoke-bottoms, sliced while raw, and tossed
in butter.

Complete its cooking gently in the oven, and, when about
to serve, add a tablespoonful of veal gravy and a few drops of
lemon juice.

1639— POULET DE GRAINS A L'HOTELlfiRE

Bone the chicken's breast; stuff it with one-half lb. of good
sausage-meat, and truss it as for an entrde. Brown it with
butter in an earthenware saucepan, and put it in the oven.

When it is two-thirds done, add to it four oz. of quartered
mushrooms, sauted in butter, complete its cooking, and, when
about to serve, finish it with three tablespoonfuls of veal gravy.

1640— POULET DE GRAINS A LA KATOFF

Split the chicken open along the back, and half-cook it in
the oven as in No. 1636. This done, complete its cooking on
the grill.

Meanwhile, mould on a round, buttered dish a sort of galette
of Duchesse potatoes (No. 2212), one inch thick. Gild, and
colour in the oven.

Dish the grilled chicken on this galette, and surround the
latter with a thread of strong veal gravy.

1 64 1— POULET DE GRAINS A LA LIMOUSINE

Stuff the chicken with one-half lb. of good sausage-meat,
combined with two oz. of chopped mushrooms fried in butter.
Put the chicken in a cocotte with one oz. of butter and six
rectangles of blanched breast of bacon, and cook gently in the
oven.

When about to serve, add two or three tablespoonfuls of
veal gravy.

Send, separately, six fine chestnuts cooked in consomm6.

1642— POULET DE GRAINS MASCOTTE

Brown the chicken in butter, and cook it " en casserole "
with four oz. of potatoes the size and shape of olives and tossed
in butter.

When the chicken is almost cooked, put it in a cocotte with
the potatoes all round, two tablespoonfuls of veal gravy, and
two oz. of sliced truffles set upon it.

Cover the cocotte ; put the chicken in the front of the ovei?
for ten minuteg, and serve jt as it stand§.

POULTRY 521

1643— POULET DE GRAINS AUX MORILLES

Prepare this chicken like the one " en casserole," and sur-
round it with one-half lb. of morels, tossed in butter for a
moment. Complete the cooking under cover, and, when about
to serve, finish with one tablespoonful of veal gravy.

1644— POULET DE GRAINS SOUVAROFF

Proceed exactly as explained under No. 1520, but reduce
the garnish by half.

1645— POULET DE GRAINS TARTARE

Proceed as for No. 1636, but serve a Tartare sauce at the
same time.

CHICKS (POUSSINS)

The most perfect example of this class would be the Ham-
burg chick, were it not for the fact that it is too often kept in
confinement and fed on fish, which gives a disagreeable flavour
to the young bird.

When it is bred rationally, however, this chick is a great
delicacy.

1646— POUSSINS CENDRILLON

Open the chicks along the back, and brown them in butter,
This done, season them with salt and cayenne, and put them
between two layers of pork forcemeat. Wrap them in very soft
pig's caul. Dip them in melted butter; roll them in bread-
crumbs, and grill them gently for twenty or twenty-five minutes.

Dish, and serve a P^rigueux sauce separately.

1647— POUSSINS A LA PIJ^MONTAISE

Stuff each chick with one and one-half oz. of white Pied-
mont truffles, pounded with an equal weight of very fresh pork
fat. Now truss them as for an entree ; string them and fry them
in butter over a fierce fire. At the end of ten minutes put
them in a cocotte ; partly surround and cover them with rizotto
h la Pi6montaise, and complete the cooking in the oven with
lid off.

A few minutes before serving, sprinkle the rizotto with grated
Parmesan; glaze; and, at the last minute, sprinkle with nut-
brown butter.

1648— POUSSINS A LA POLONAISE

Stuff each chick with one and one-half oz. of gratin force-
meat, two-thirds oz. of soaked and pressed bread-crumbs, one-
third oz. of butter, and a pinch of chopped parsley. Truss as
for entries; string; quickly fry the chicks in butter in a very

522 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

hot oven ; put them in a cocotte, and complete their cooking in
the oven.

At the last moment sprinkle them with a few drops of
lemon juice and nut-brown butter, combined with one oz. of
bread-crumbs per four oz. of butter.
1649— P0U5S1NS A LA TARTARE

Proceed exactly as for " Poulet a la Tartare."

1650— TOURTE DE POUSSINS A LA PAYSANNE

Prepare a round layer of short paste, ten inches in diameter.
Upon this paste spread two-thirds lb. of sausage-meat, com-
bined with five oz. of dry Duxelles, taking care to leave a margin
two inches wide of bare paste all round.

Upon this coating of forcemeat set ten half-chicks, stiffened
in butter; sprinkle two-thirds lb. of chopped mushrooms, sauted
in butter, over them ; spread a second coating of sausage-meat
and Duxelles over the whole; cover with a very thin slice of
bacon, and close the whole with a layer of paste a little larger
than the underlying one, the edges of which should have been
moistened. Seal the two edges, and pleat regularly; gild;
streak ; make a slit in the top, and bake in a moderate oven for
about forty minutes.

When taking the tourte out of the oven, pour into it, through
the slit in its cover, a few tablespoonfuls of half-glaze sauce.

1651— P0U5SINS A LA VIENNOISE

Cut the chicks each into four pieces ; season them ; dredge
them ; dip them in beaten egg, and roll them in bread-crumbs.

A few minutes before serving, put them in hot fat; drain
them, and dish them in pyramid form on a folded napkin.
Surround with fried parsley and sections of lemon, and serve
very hot.

Various Preparations of Fowl
1652— ABATI5 AUX NAVETS

Fry one-half lb. of blanched breast of pork, cut into dice, in
butter. Drain, and fry in the same sautepan three lbs. of giblets,
cut into pieces (all except the livers, which are only added one-
quarter hour before dishing). Sprinkle with two and one-
half oz. of flour ; mix the latter with the pieces, and cook it in
the oven for seven or eight minutes; moisten with three pints
of white stock. Season with a pinch of pepper; add a
faggot and a crushed, garlic clove; set to boil, stirring the
while; cover, and place in a somewhat hot oven, that the pre-
paration may boil gently.

POULTRY 523

At the end of thirty-five minutes transfer the pieces to an-
other saucepan; put back the bacon; add twenty-four small
onions, tossed in butter, one lb. of turnips shaped like elongated
olives and glazed, and strain the sauce over the whole.

Complete the cooking gently, and serve in a timbale.

N.B. — With the same procedure, the giblets may be pre-
pared with peas; with mixed, new vegetables; k la chipolata, &c.

1653— QIBLET PIE

Fry the giblets, cut into pieces, in butter; sprinkle them
moderately with flour; cook the latter, and moisten with just
sufficient consommd to make a clear sauce which will just cover
the pieces. Three-parts cook, and leave to cool.

This done, pour the whole into a pie-dish ; cover with a layer
of puff-paste, which should be sealed down to a strip of paste,
stuck to the edge of the dish ; gild ; streak, and bake in a mode-
rately warm oven for from twenty-five to thirty minutes.

1654— BALLOTINES ET JAMBONNEAUX

These preparations are useful for disposing of any odd legs
of fowls, the other parts of which have been already used. The
legs are boned and stuffed, and the skin, which should be pur-
posely left long if this preparation be contemplated, is then
sewn up. The stuffing used varies according to the kind of dish
in preparation, but good sausage-meat is most commonly used.

Ballotines or Jambonneaux are braised, and they may be
accompanied by any garnish suited to fowl.

If they be prepared for serving cold, coat them with jelly, or
cover them with brown or white chaud-froid sauce, and garnish
them according to fancy.

BouDiNs ET Quenelles de Volaille
,655— BOUDINS DE VOLAILLE A LA RICHELIEU

Take the required amount of chicken forcemeat, prepared
with panada and cream, and divide it into three-oz. portions.
Roll these portions into sausage-form, and open them so as to
stuff them with some white chicken-meat, truffle and mushroom
salpicon, cohered with reduced Allemande sauce. These
quenelles may also be moulded in little, rectangular cases, used
in biscuit-making, as follows: — Line the bottom and sides of
the moulds, which should be well buttered, with a thickness of
one-third inch of forcemeat; garnish the centre with salpicon;
cover with forcemeat up to the edges, and smooth with the
blade of a small knife dipped in tepid water.

524 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

Whichever way they are made, however, the boudins are
poached like quenelles, and are afterwards drained on a piece of
linen. They are then dipped in beaten egg and rolled in bread-
crumbs, and, finally, gently coloured in clarified butter, that
their inside may get heated at the same time.

Dish them in a circle on a folded napkin, and serve a P^ri-
gueux sauce separately.

1656— BOUDINS DE VOLAILLE SOUBISE

Prepare the boudins with some forcemeat as above, but
replace the salpicon inside by a very reduced and cold truffled
Soubise pur^e.

Poach, dip in beaten egg, and roll in bread-crumbs, and
colour as before in clarified butter.

Serve a clear Soubise separately.

1657— QUENELLES DE VOLAILLE MORLAND

Mould some portions of somewhat firm chicken moussclinc
forcemeat into the shape of oval quenelles, three oz. in weight.
Dip them in beaten egg ; roll them in finely minced truffle, and
press lightly on the latter with the blade of a knife, in order
that it may combine with the egg.

Poach gently in clarified butter, under cover, that the force-
meat may be well cooked.

Dish in a circle, and in the middle pour a mushroom pur^e.

1658— QUENELLES DE VOLAILLE D'UZfeS

Line the bottom and sides of some oval buttered quenelle
moulds with chicken forcemeat prepared with panada and cream.
Garnish the middle with a mince of the white of chicken meat
cohered with reduced Allemande sauce, and cover with force-
meat.

Poach the quenelles in good time ; drain them on a piece of
linen; set them in a circle on a round dish, and coat with
Aurore sauce. Garnish the centre of the circle with a fine
Julienne of truffles.

1659— CAPILOTADE DE VOLAILLE

Prepare an Italienne sauce, combined with cooked, sliced
mushrooms. Add to this sauce some thin slices of cold fowl
remains, and heat without allowing to boil at all.

Dish in a timbale, and sprinkle a little chopped parsley over
the preparation.

1660— CHICKEN PIE

Cut a fowl into pieces as for a fricassee; season the pieces,
and sprinkle them with three finely-chopped onions, one and

POULTRY 525

one-half oz. of chopped mushrooms cooked in butter, and a
pinch of chopped parsley.

Line the bottom and sides of a pie-dish with thin slices of
veal ; set the pieces of fowl inside, putting the legs undermost ;
add five oz. of thin slices of bacon; the yolks of four hard-
boiled eggs cut into two ; and moisten sufficiently to three-parts
cover with chicken consomme. Cover with a layer of puff-
paste, which should be sealed down to a strip of paste stuck to
the edges of the pie-dish ; gild ; streak ; make a slit in the middle
of the paste, and bake in a moderate oven for one and one-half
hours.

When taking the pie out of the oven, pour a few table-
spoonfuls of strong gravy into it.

1661— CRfeTE5 ET ROGNONS DE COQ

In order to prepare cocks' combs and kidneys, they should
be first set to soak in cold water for a few hours.

If they are fresh, they should be put in a saucepan of cold
water; the latter should be made lukewarm, and they should
then be drained and rubbed in a towel that their skins may be
removed. This done, they are trimmed, and kept in fresh water,
which ought to be frequently changed until they are quite white.

They may then be cooked in a very light Blanc (No. 167).

The kidneys are merely soaked in cold water for a few hours,
and put to cook with the combs a few minutes before the latter
are ready.-

Cocks' combs and kidneys are mostly used as garnish ;
nevertheless, they also serve in the preparation of special dishes,
for which I shall now give a few recipes.

1662— CRATES ET ROQNONS DE COQ A LA QRECQUE

About twenty-five minutes before serving, prepare a pint
of pilaff rice, combined with one half-capsicum cut into dice,
and a very little saffron.

Also prepare ten roundels of egg-plant, seasoned, dredged,
and fried in oil just before dishing. The moment the rice
is cooked, add thereto twenty-four very fresh cocks' kidneys,
frizzled in butter, and twelve fine blanched cocks' combs, poeled
after the manner of lambs' sweetbreads.

Set the whole in a silver saucepan, arrange the egg-plant
roundels in a circle on the rice, and serve instantly.

1663— DESIRS DE MASCOTTE

Put three oz. of butter in a vegetable-pan, and fry it nut-
brown.

526 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

Add to this butter twenty-four fine cocks' kidneys (it is
essential that these should be fresh); season them with salt,
pepper, and a little red pepper, and cook them for from five
to six minutes, which should prove sufficient.

Meanwhile, prepare twelve croutons of bread-crumbs, one-
third inch thick, stamped out with a round cutter two-thirds
inch in diameter. Fry these croutons in butter at the last
minute.

Put four fine, very black truffles, cut into somewhat thick
slices, into the required quantity of reduced half-glaze sauce;
add the kidneys, drained of their butter, as well as the fried
crusts, one and one-half oz. of very best butter, and a few drops
of lemon juice, and roll the saucepan gently, that the butter may
thoroughly combine with the sauce.

Dish immediately in a very hot, silver timbale, and serve
instantly.

1664— ROQNONS DE COQ FARCIS POUR ENTREES
FROIDES, GARNITURES, ETC.

Choose some fine, cooked kidneys, and cut them into two
lengthwise. Trim them slightly underneath, that they may lie
steady.

Stuff them by means of a piping-bag with a highly seasoned
pur^e of foie gras, ham, the white of a chicken and truffles,
combined with an equal weight of fresh butter.

Coat them with a pink or white chaud-froid sauce, according
to the requirements ; set them in a low timbale, and cover them
with light jelly.

They may also be put into petits-fours moulds, surrounded
with jelly, and used as a garnish for cold fowls.
1664a— CHICKEN CROQUETTES AND CUTLETS

The croquettes and cutlets with which we are now concerned
are made up of exactly the same constituents, and only differ
in the matter of shape, the croquettes, as a rule, being shaped
either like corks or rectangles; sometimes, too, like quoits;
whereas the cutlets, as their name implies, are made in cutlet-
shaped moulds.

The preparation from which they are made is as follows : -
One lb, of the meat of a poached or roast fowl, thoroughly
cleared of all skin, cartilage, and bones, and cut into small
regular dice^; six oz. of cooked mushrooms; an equal amount
of salted ox-tongue or York ham, and four oz. of truffles. Cut

' When prepared as directed above, all meats, whether of poultry, game,
fish, Crustacea or mollusca, &c., may serve in the preparation of croquettes or
cutlets.

POULTRY 527

these various products like the chicken, and mix them there-
with ; then add one-half pint of very reduced and finished Alle-
mande sauce to the whole ; set the preparation to dry for a few
minutes over an open fire ; this done, remove it from the latter,
and thicken it with the yolks of four raw eggs, which should
be quickly mixed with it. Now pour the preparation into a
very clean, buttered tray, and butter its surface, lest a crust
form thereon during the cooling.

When the preparation is quite cold, transfer it, by means of
a spoon, in pieces weighing about two oz., to a flour-dusted
mixing board. Make the croquettes and cutlets about the
desired shape; dip them into an anglaise, and roll them in
fine bread-crumbs. Definitely shape them ; plunge them into
very hot fat; keep them therein till they have acquired a fine
golden colour ; drain them, and dish them in a crown on a nap-
kin, with a heap of fried parsley in the middle.

Croquettes and cutlets may be garnished as fancy sug-
gests, but the accompaniment should always be served sepa-
rately. Tomato and P^rigueux sauces are the most commonly
used, and the best garnishes for the purpose are all the purees,
peas, French beans, and jardinieres.

Chickens' Livers (Foies de Volaille)

1665— BROCHETTES DE FOIES DE VOLAILLE

Collop the livers; quickly stiffen them in butter, and then
treat them exactly as explained under " Brochettes de
Rognons " (No, 1343).

1666— foies de volaille et rognons
saut6s au vin rouge

Proceed according to the recipe given under " Rognons
Sautes au Champagne " (No. i333). using sliced chickens'
livers and cocks' kidneys in equal quantities, and substituting
excellent red wine for the Champagne.

N.B. — Chickens' livers are also prepared sautes chasseur;
sautes fines herbes, au gratin; en coquilles; en pilaw, &c. Refer
to sheeps' kidneys for these preparations.

1667— FRICASSEE DE POULET A L'ANCIENNE

For a fricassee cut up the chicken as for a saute, but divide
the legs into two. The procedure is exactly that of " Fricassee
de Veau " (No. 1276) — that is to say, the chicken is cooked in
the sauce.

About ten minutes before serving, add ten small onions,

528 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

cooked in white consomm^, and ten small grooved mushroom-
heads. Finish at the last moment with a pinch of chopped
parsley and chives. Thicken the sauce at the last moment with
the yolks of two eggs, four tablespoonfuls of cream, and one oz.
of best butter.

Dish in a timbale, and surround the fricassee with little
flowerets of puff-paste, baked without colouration.

1668— FRICASSEE DE POULET AUX jfeCREVISSES

Prepare the fricassee as above, and add thereto as garnish
ten small, cooked mushrooms, and the shelled tails of twelve
crayfish, cooked as for bisque. When about to serve, finish
the fricassee with two and one-half oz. of crayfish butter, made
from the crayfishes' carcasses and their cooking-liquor rubbed
through linen.

Dish in a timbale.

1669— FRIT6T OU MARINADE DE VOLAILLE

Cut some boiled or roast fowl into slices, and marinade these
in a few drops of oil, lemon juice, and some chopped herbs for
one-quarter hour. Boiled fowl is preferable, in that the greater
porousness of its meat facilitates the percolation of the marinade
through it.

A few minutes before serving, dip the slices into very light
batter, and put them into very hot fat. Drain, the moment the
batter is well gilded; dish on a napkin with fried parsley, and
serve a tomato sauce separately.

N.B. — Nowadays Fritot and Marinade of fowl are identically
the same dish, but formerly they differed in this, namely, that
the Frit6t was prepared from cooked fowl, and the Marinade
from pieces of uncooked fowl which were marinaded before-
hand.

1670— MOUSSES ET MOUSSELINES DE VOLAILLE

Both these preparations have for basic ingredient the mous-
seline forcemeat of No. 195. They differ in that the
" Mousses " are prepared singly for one service, i.e., for several
people at once, and that the " Mousselines," which are vir-
tually special quenelles, are prepared in the proportion of one
or two for each person.

In different parts of this work, especially under No. 797, the
subject has already been exhaustively treated ; there is no need
now, therefore, to go over the ground again.

POULTRY 529

1671— MOUSSELINES DE VOLAILLE ALEXANDRA

Mould and poach the Mousselines. Drain them, and set
them in a circle on a round dish ; place on each a fine slice of
cooked fowl, and upon the latter a slice of truffle. Coat with
Mornay sauce, glaze quickly, and, in the middle of the mous-
selines, set a heap of asparagus-heads or small peas, cohered
with butter.

1672— MOUSSELINES DE VOLAILLE A L'INDIENNE

Prepare the mousselines as above ; set them in a circle on a
round dish ; coat with Indienne sauce, and serve a timbale of
rice k I'lndienne separately.

1673— MOUSSELINES DE VOLAILLE AU PAPRIKA

When the m.ousselines are poached and dished, set upon
each a fine collop of supreme, and coat with supreme sauce with
paprika. Surround them with small timbales of pilaff rice com-
bined with concassed tomatoes cooked in butter.

1674— MOUSSELINES DE VOLAILLE A LA PATTI

Proceed as for " Mousselines Alexandra," but coat them
with supreme sauce, finished with crayfish butter. In their
midst set a heap of asparagus-heads, cohered with butter, and
upon these lay some fine slices of glazed truffles.

1675— MOUSSELINES DE VOLAILLE A LA SICILIENNE

Prepare the m,ousselines as above, and set them, each on an
oval tartlet, garnished with macaroni k la Napolitaine. Coat
them with supreme sauce; besprinkle with grated Parmesan,
and glaze quickly.

1676— SYLPHIDES DE VOLAILLE

Prepare and poach the m,otisselines in the usual way.
Garnish the bottom of some barquettes with Mornay sauce,
and put a mousseline into each bar quelle.

Set a collop of fowl on each mousseline, and cover them with
a somewhat stiff preparation of souffle au Parmesan (No. 2295a),
applied ornamentally by means of a piping-bag fitted with an
even pipe. Put the sylphides in the oven, in order to cook the
souffle, and serve instantly.

1677— MOUSSELINES DE VOLAILLE A LA FLORENTINE

Proceed as for the sylphides; taking note only of this differ-
ence, viz., that the bottom of the barquettes must be garnished
with shredded spinach stewed in butter. For the other details
of the operation the procedure is the same.

M M

530 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

1678— PILAW DE VOLAILLE

Pilaff, which is the national dish of Orientals, gives rise
to an endless number of recipes. The various curries of
veal, lamb, and fowl are " pilaffs," and all except the one " k la
Parisienne," which I give below, follow the same method of
preparation — namely, that of curry ; but for a change in the
condiments and the treatment of the rice, which is not the same
as that of " Riz k I'lndienne."

1679— PILAW DE VOLAILLE A LA GRECQUE

Cut the fowl into small pieces, and fry it in mutton fat with
three oz. of chopped onions. Sprinkle with one oz. of flour;
moisten with one pint of white consomm^ ; add two-thirds of a
capsicum, cut into dice, and one and one-half oz. of currants
and sultanas, and cook gently.

Dish in a timbale, and serve some pilaw rice separately.

1680— PILAW DE VOLAILLE A L'ORIENTALE

Prepare the fowl as above, only flavour it with a little
powdered ginger, and add three green braised and quartered
capsicums to the sauce.

Serve a timbale of pilaff rice at the same time.

1681— PILAW DE VOLAILLE A LA PARISIENNE

Cut up the fowl as for a fricassee ; season it ; fry it in butter,
and add thereto three and one-half oz. of rice, browned in
butter, with one chopped onion, a leaf of bay, and two peeled
and concussed tomatoes. Moisten with enough white broth
to more than cover, and cook in a very hot oven for twenty-five
minutes. At the end of this time the fowl and rice are cooked,
and the rice should be quite dry.

Sprinkle then with one-sixth pint of veal stock ; mix the
latter with the pilaff by means of a fork, and dish with care in
a timbale.

Serve a sauceboat of tomato sauce separately.

1682— PILAW DE VOLAILLE A LA TURQUE

Prepare the fowl as for " Pilaw h la Parisienne," and flavour
with a little cayenne and another of saffron. Dish in a tim-
bale.

N.B. — Pilaff may also be prepared with cooked fowl, cut
into slices which are heated in butter. In this case, garnish the
bottoms and sides of a timbale with tomated pilaff rice ; put the
slices of fowl in the middle; cover with rice, and turn out the
timbale on the dish.

Surround the timbale with a thread of tomato sauce.

POULTRY 531

1683— SOUFFLES DE VOLAILLE

For dinners on a large scale, it is in every way preferable
to use raw chicken-meat. For small services, cooked chicken-
meat suits perfectly.

N.B. — The time allowed for cooking chicken souffles with
cooked chicken-meat is comparatively long, and it is better to
cook them a little too much than not enough.

For a souffle made in a quart timbale, and cooked in a
moderate oven as directed, allow from about twenty-five to
thirty minutes.

1684— S0UFFL6 DE VOLAILLE WITH RAW MEAT

Prepare two lbs. of mousseline forcemeat of chicken, accord-
ing to recipe No. 195 ; add to this the whites of four eggs beaten
to a stiff froth.

Dish in buttered timbales, and cook in a moderate oven.

1685— SOUFFLE DE VOLAILLE WITH COOKED MEAT

Finely pound one lb. of the white of cooked chicken-meat;
add thereto six tablespoonfuls of cold, reduced, Bechamel sauce.
Rub through tammy.

Heat this preparation in a saucepan, without allowing it to
boil, and add to it one and one-half oz. of butter, the yolks of
five eggs, and the whites of six, beaten to a stiff froth.

Dish in a buttered timbale, and cook in a moderate oven.

Supreme sauce and the other derivatives of Allemande sauce
form the best accompaniments to chicken souffles.

1686— 50UFFLE DE VOLAILLE A LA PERIQORD

This may be made from either one of the two above-men-
tioned preparations, but there must be added to it three and one-
half oz. of chopped truffles. The preparation is then spread in
layers separated by slices of truffle, which should weigh about
three and one-half oz. in all, in order to be in proportion to the
quantities already given.

Cold Preparations of Fowl

1687— POULARDE A LA CARMELITE

Poach the pullet ; raise the supremes and remove their skin ;
slice them ; coat them with white chaud-froid sauce, and de-
corate them soberly with pieces of truffle. Trim the carcass;
coat it outside with white chaud-froid sauce, and fill it with a
fine crayfish mousse, reconstructing it exactly in so doing.

Cause the mousse to set in a refrigerator ; place the collops of

M M 2

532 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

supreme neatly upon it, in two rows, and between each row lay
a dozen fine crayfish tails shelled and trimmed.

Coat the whole with half-melted aspic jelly; set in a deep
dish ; incrust the latter in a block of ice, and pour enough very
good, melting aspic jelly (No. 159) over the pullet to half-
immerse it.

1688— POULARDE AU CHAMPAGNE

Stuff a pullet two days beforehand with a whole foie gras
studded with truffles and stiffened in butter for twenty minutes.
Poele it in champagne; put it in a cocotte', cover it with its
poeling-liquor, containing a sufficient addition of succulent
jelly, and leave it to cool.

On the morrow remove, by means of a spoon, the grease
that has settled on the jelly, and scald the latter twice or thrice
with boiling water, in order to remove the last traces of grease.

Serve this pullet very cold, in the same cocotte in which it
has cooled.

1689— POULARDE EN CHAUD=FROID

Poach the pullet; let it cool in its cooking-liquor; cut it up,
and clear the pieces of all skin. Dip the pieces in chaud-froid
sauce, already prepared from the pullet's cooking-liquor if
possible, and arrange them on a tray. Decorate each piece with
a fine slice of truffle ; glaze with cold, melted jelly ; leave to
set, and trim the edges of the pieces, just before dishing
them.

Old method of dishing : Formerly, chaud-froids were dished
on a cushion of bread or rice, placed in the middle of a
border of jelly; and, between each piece, cocks' combs and
mushrooms, covered with" chaud-froid sauce or jelly, were set.

They were also dished on stearine tazzas, made in special
moulds ; but these methods, however much they may have been
honoured by old cookery, are generally scouted at the present
day.

The method of dishing detailed hereafter is steadily ousting
them ; it allows of serving much more delicate and more agree-
able chaud-froids in the simplest possible way, and was
inaugurated at my suggestion at the Savoy Hotel.

Modern method of dishing : Set the decorated pieces, coated
with chaud-froid sauce, side by side on a layer of excellent aspic
jelly, lying on the bottom of a deep square dish. Cover them
with the same aspic, which should be half melted, and leave
to set. When about to serve, incrust the dish in a block of
carved ice, or surround it with the latter fragmented.

POULTRY 533

This procedure allows of using less gelatinous products in
the preparation of the aspic, and the latter is therefore much
more delicate, mellow, and melting.

1690— POULARDE EN CHAUD-FROID A L'jfeCOSSAISE

Having poached and cooled the pullets, raise the supremes,
and cut each into three or four collops. Garnish these collops,
dome-fashion, with a salpicon consisting of the meat cut from
the carcass, combined with an equal quantity of salted tongue
and truflBe, and cohered with reduced chicken jelly.

Coat these collops with white chaud-froid sauce; sprinkle
them immediately with very red tongue, truffle, gherkins, and
hard-boiled white of egg; all chopped, mixed, and glazed with
jelly.

Now set the collops in a deep, square silver dish, alternating
them with oval slices of salted tongue.

Garnish their midst with a salad of French beans, cut
lozenge-form and cohered with aspic.

1 69 1— CHAUD-FROID F^LIX FAURE

Raise the supremes of a fine pullet; cut them in two in
the thick part, without separating them, and slightly flatten
them. Lay them on a piece of linen ; season them ; and, on one
of their halves, spread a layer of foie-gras pur^e thickened with
a little chicken forcemeat. Upon this layer set some rectangles
of ravvf foie gras, one-third in. thick; cover with pur^e, set some
slices of truffle upon the latter; coat again with pur^e; moisten
with white of egg, and over the whole press the other half of
the supreme. Wrap each supreme, prepared in this way, in a
piece of muslin ; poach them in a moderate oven, after having
moistened thern to within half their height with chicken stock ;
and leave them to cool in their cooking-liquor under slight
pressure.

This done, take off the muslin, and cut each supreme into
ten or twelve medallions. Envelop each medallion in a mousse
of chicken made with the meat of the poached eggs, and leave
to set. Then coat each medallion with white chaud-froid sauce,
and deck each with a fine slice of truffle.

Clothe a dome-mould with a fine chicken jelly, and decorate
it with slices of truffle; put the medallions inside, proceeding as
for an aspic, and leave to set.

When about to serve, turn out on a serviette.

1692— CHAUD-FROID DE POULARDE A LA GOUNOD

Raise the supremes of a poached pullet, and cool them under
pressure.

534 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

Then cut them into rectangles of equal sizes; and, if neces-
sary, bisect them in the thickness.

Prepare a slab of mousse (made from the legs and the
trimmings), twice as thick as the rectangles. Smoothen this
mousse neatly, and put it in the refrigerator that it may
get firm. This done, cut it into pieces exactly equal in size
to the supremes; to do this, all that is necessary is to stick
the latter on the m.ousse by means of jelly.

Now coat each supreme garnished with mousse with white
chaud-froid sauce, and decorate with a bar of notes, imitated
with truffles.

Set in a square, deep silver dish ; cover with limpid and
melting chicken jelly ; leave to set, and serve the dish incrusted
in a block of ice.

1693— CHAUD-FROID DE POULARDE A LA R055INI

Prepare the pieces as for ordinary chaud-froid, and coat them
with chaud-froid sauce combined with a quarter of its bulk of
very smooth foie-gras pur6e. Decorate each piece with a lyre
composed of truffle stamped out with a " lyre " fancy-cutter, set
them on a deep, square dish, and cover with chicken jelly as
above.

1694— POULARDE A LA DAMPIERRE

Completely bone the pullet's breast, and stuff it with a
preparation of chicken forcemeat (No. 200). Sew up the piece,
truss it as for an entree, and poach it in a chicken stock.

When it is cold, trim it, and coat it with a white chaud-froid
sauce, combined with a little almond milk. Glaze with aspic
jelly, and set it, without decorating it, on a low ctishion lying on
a long dish.

Surround it with six small, ham mousses and six small,
chicken m,ousses, moulded in deep dariole-moulds, and arranged
alternately.

Border the dish with croutons of jelly, cut very neatly.

1695— POULETS A L'ECARLATE

Bone the breasts of three fair-sized chickens ; stuff and poach
them as explained above. When they are quite cold, cover them
with white chaud-froid sauce; decorate with pieces of truffle;
glaze with aspic jelly, and leave to set.

This done, set them upright on a dish, letting them lean
one against the other. Between each chicken set a salted calf's
tongue, upright, with the tip of the tongue pointing upwards;
and, on either side of the tongues, a large glazed truffle.

POULTRY 535

Border the dish with fine croutons of jelly, and serve a
mayonnaise sauce at the same time.

1696— POULARDE A LA LAMBERTYE

Poach the pullet and let it cool thoroughly.

Raise the swpremes, suppress the bones of the breast and
garnish the cavity with a cold chicken mousse, combined with
a quarter of its volume of foie-gras puree, shaping the latter in
such wise as to reconstruct the bird.

Cut the supremes into thin, long slices; coat them with
white chaud-froid sauce, and place them on the mousse,
pressing them lightly one upon the other. Deck with pieces
of truffle ; glaze with chicken jelly ; set in a square, entree dish,
and surround with melted jelly.

When about to serve, incrust the dish in a block of ice.

1697— POULARDE A LA NjfeVA

Stuff the pullet with chicken forcemeat (No. 200), combined

with foie gras and truffles, cut into dice; poach it in chicken

stock and let it cool. This done, coat the piece with white

chaud-froid sauce, decorate with jelly, and leave to set.

Set the pullet on a cushion of rice, lying on a long dish.
Behind the bird, arrange a fine, vegetable salad in a shell of
carved rice, or in a large, silver shell.

Border the dish with neatly-cut croutons of pale jelly.

1698— POULARDE ROSE DE MAI

Poach the pullet and, when it is quite cold, raise its supremes
and remove the bones of the breast. Coat the carcass with a
white chaud-froid sauce ; decorate as fancy may dictate ; garnish
with a mousse of tomatoes (No. 814), and arrange the latter in
such wise as to reconstruct the bird.

Slice the supremes ; coat them with white chaud-froid sauce ;
decorate with truffles, and glaze with chicken jelly. Garnish
with the same mousse as that already used for the pullet, as
many small, barquette-moulds as there are chaud-froid-coated
slices, and leave to set.

Put the pullets on a low cushion of rice, placed on a long
dish ; surround it with the barquettes of mousse, turned out at
the last moment; set a chaud-froid-coated slice on each bar-
quette, and distribute croHtons of jelly over the dish.

1699— POULARDE ROSE MARIE

Having poached and cooled the pullet, raise its supremes;
cut these into collops, and coat them with white chaud-froid
sauce. Trim the carcass, leaving the wings attached; garnish

536 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

it with very smooth and pink, ham mousse, giving the latter the
shape of the pullet, and put to set in the refrigerator.

Mould in small, oval moulds, as many barquettes of the same
ham raousse as there are collops.

When the mousse in the fowl has properly set, coat it with
chaud-froid sauce, prepared with paprika of a fine, tender, pink
shade; decorate according to fancy, and glaze with chicken jelly.

Set the pullet on a low cushion of rice, placed on a dish ;
place the barquettes of ham mousse around it; set a collop on
each mo2isse and a fine slice of truffle on each collop, and
border the dish with croutons of aspic.

1700— POULARDE A LA SAINT-CYR

Boil the pullet in white wine, and leave it to cool in its
cooking-liquor. This done, raise the fillets ; cut them into
regular slices; coat them with white chaud-froid sauce and
decorate.

Meanwhile, saute fifteen larks in a mirepoix; remove the
fillets of six of them ; glaze them with brown, chaud-froid sauce,
and decorate them with bits of hard-boiled white of egg.

With the remainder of the larks and five oz. of foie gras,
prepare a mousse, and use the latter for reconstructing the
pullet as explained in the preceding recipes. When the mousse
has set properly, coat it with brown, chaud-froid sauce.
Arrange the chicken fillets, coated with white, chaud-froid sauce,
on either side of the mousse ; in the middle put the larks' fillets,
coated with brown, chaud-froid sauce, and let them slightly
overlap one another.

Set the pullet in a deep, square dish ; surround it with melted,
chicken jelly ; let the latter set, and serve the dish incrusted
in a block of ice.

1701— POULARDE EN TERRINE A LA QELEE

Bone the pullet all but the legs, and stuff it with a forcemeat
consisting of : three and one-half oz. of veal ; three and one-half
oz. of fresh pork fat; three and one-half oz. of gratin forcemeat,
prepared from fowls' livers; two tablespoonfuls of brandy; two
tablespoonfuls of truffle essence, and the yolk of an egg.

In the midst of the stuffing, set half of a raw foie gras and
one raw, quartered truffle on each side. Reconstruct the pullet;
truss it as for an entree ; cover it with slices of bacon, and poele
in Madeira for one and one-half hours.

Leave to half-cool in the cooking-liquor ; withdraw the pullet ;
remove the slices of bacon, and put it in a terrine just large
enough to hold it.

POULTRY 537

Add a little chicken jelly to the bird's cooking-liquor, which
should not have been cleared of grease, but merely strained
through a napkin ; and pour this sauce over the pullet.

Do not serve until twenty-four hours have elapsed, and clear
of grease as directed under " Poularde au Champagne " (No.
1688).

Serve the terrine in a block of ice, or on a dish with broken
ice all round.

1702— TERRINE DE POULARDE EN CONSERVE

Prepare the pullet as explained above, and put it in a box
just large enough to hold it. Seal up the box; mark the top
with a bit of tin ; put it in a stewpan with enough water to cover
it, and boil for two hours.

This done, withdraw the box and cool it, placing it upside
down, that the grease may be at the bottom and the breast
coated with jelly.

1703— AILERONS DE POULET A LA CARMELITE

Poach a chicken k la Reine; let it cool; raise its supremes
and leave the humerus bones attached, after having duly cleared
them of air meat; skin the supremes, and coat them with a little
jelly.

Garnish a timbale, just large enough to hold the two wings,
half-way up with crayfish mousse. Upon this mousse, set the
two supremes, opposite one another, and between them set a
row of shelled and trimmed crayfishes' tails, cooked as for
bisque. Cover the whole with a succulent half-set chicken jelly,
and place in the refrigerator for two hours.

1704— AILERONS DE POULET LADY WILMER

Poach three fleshy, spring chickens, taking care to have the
supremes just cooked. Leave to cool, and raise the wings as
in the preceding recipe, trim them and coat them with jelly.

With the meat of three legs, prepare a chicken mousse, and
mould it in a dome-mould. When the mousse is set, turn it
out on a dish, and place the wings all round, fixing them on the
mousse, with their points upwards, by means of a little half-set
jelly.

Cover the mousse on top, and the gaps between the points
of the supremes with chopped truffle and chopped tongue, laid
alternately. In the middle of the mousse, set a fine, glazed
trufHe, pierced by a small hatelet.

1705— ASPIC DE POULET A L'lTALIENNE

Clothe a border mould with aspic jelly, in accordance with
the procedure described under " Aspic de Homard " (No. 954),

538 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

and decorate it with large slices of truffles. Fill the mould with
a coarse julienne of chicken fillets, salted tongue and truffles,
spread in successive layers and besprinkled with cold, melted
aspic.

When about to serve, turn out the aspic on a very cold
dish; set a salad "k I'ltalienne " in its midst, and serve a
R6moulade sauce separately.

1706— ASPIC DE POULET A LA QAULOISE

Clothe an ornamented mould with jelly, and decorate its
bottom and sides with truffles. Fill it with successive and
alternate layers of : aspic jelly, collops of chicken fillets, cocks'
combs coated with brown, chaud-froid sauce, fine cocks' kidneys,
coated with white chaud-froid sauce, and slices of salted
tongue cut into oval shapes.

When about to serve, turn out, and surround with fine
croutons of aspic.

1707— MEDAILLONS DE VOLAILLE RACHEL

Prepare some chicken supremes as explained under " Chaud-
froid Felix Faure " (No. 167 1), and cut them into collops. Trim
these collops with a round, even cutter, and coat them with
aspic.

Prepare a mousse from the meat of the legs. Spread this
mousse on a tray in a layer one-third in. thick and leave it
to set. When it is quite firm, stamp it out with a round, even
cutter, dipped in hot water, and a little larger than the one
used in trimming the collops.

Set a medallion on each roundel of m,ousse, fixing it there
by means of a little half-set jelly, and arrange the medallion
prepared in this way on a square dish.

In their midst set a fine faggot of asparagus-heads ; fill the
gaps betwen the medallions with a garnish consisting of a salad
of asparagus-heads with cream.

Serve on a block of ice or surround the dish with ice.

1708— GALANTINE DE VOLAILLE

For galantines, fowls may be used which are a little too
tough to be roasted, but old fowls should be discarded. The
latter invariably yield a dry forcemeat, whatever measures one
may take in the preparation.

The fowl should be cleaned but not emptied, and it should
be carefully boned ; the process beginning from an incision down
the skin of the back, from the head to the tail.

This done, carefully remove the meat with the point of a

POULTRY 539

small, sharp knife, until the carcass is quite bare. Cut off the
wings and the legs, flush with the articulations of the trunk ;
remove all the meat that the skin may be quite clean, and spread
the skin on a clean piece of linen. Trim the meat of the
breast, cut it into pieces one-third inch square, and put the
resulting trimmings aside.

Season these pieces and marinade them in a few drops of
brandy ; prepare other pieces of the same size and length from
four oz. of truffles; six oz. of salted, fat pork; four oz.
of cooked ham, and four oz. of salted and cooked ox-tongue.
Then clear the meat of the legs of all tendons; add to it the
trimmings cut from the breast, as much very white veal and
twice as much very fat, fresh pork ; season these meats with
salt, pepper and nutmeg; chop them up very finely; pound
them, and rub them through a sieve. Add the brandy in which
the fillets were marinaded.

Spread a layer, three in. wide, of this forcemeat along the
whole of the middle of the chicken's skin; upon this layer of
forcemeat set the strips of bacon, fowl, truffle, ham, and tongue,
arranging them alternately and regularly ; upon them spread
another layer of forcemeat, equal to the first ; then another layer
of the various pieces, and finally cover and envelop the whole
in what remains of the forcemeat.

Draw the skin of the fowl over the whole and completely
wrap the former round the latter. Carefully sew up the edges
of the skin, and roll the galantine in a napkin, either end of
which should be tightly strung.

With six lbs. of shin of veal, one-half lb. of fresh blanched
pork rind, and the fowl's carcass, prepare a white veal stock
(No. lo). When this stock has cooked for about five hours,
add the galantine to it, and gently cook the latter for about
one and one-quarter hours.

At the end of this time take the galantine off the fire ; drain
it on a dish, and let it cool for ten minutes ; remove the napkin
in which it has cooked, and roll it in another one which should
be similarly tied at both ends. This done, put the galantine to
cool under a weight not exceeding five or six lbs.

The cooking-liquor, once it has been cleared of grease and
clarified as for an aspic (No. 158), constitutes a jelly which
accompanies the galantine. When the latter is quite cold,
remove the napkin covering it, trim it neatly at either end ; coat
it with half-melted jelly, and dish it on a low cushion of carved
rice. Finally, decorate it as fancy may dictate with pieces of
jelly.

540 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

1709— PAIN DE VOLAILLE FROID

Poele a very tender chicken ; do not colour it and have it
only just done. Withdraw it and leave it to cool. Add two
tablespoonfuls of strong veal stock and one tablespoonful of
burned brandy to the ■poeling-liquor.

Simmer for ten minutes. Strain this stock through a
sieve, and slightly press the vegetables in so doing, that all
their juices may be expressed.

Clear of grease, and reduce until the liquor does not measure
more than two tablespoonfuls. Put it on the side of the fire,
add the yolks of three eggs, stirring briskly the while, and add,
little by little, six oz. of very good, fresh butter, just as for a
Hollandaise sauce. Finally, add one and one-half leaves of
gelatine, dissolved in two tablespoonfuls of boiling water, and
rub the whole through tammy.

Meanwhile, raise the chicken's fillets and cut them into wide
and thin coUops, after having cleared them of skin. Cover each
collop with a slice of truffle dipped in good, half-melted jelly,
and with them line the bottom and sides of a timbale-mould,
already clothed with jelly and incrusted in ice.

Then completely bone the chicken ; finely pound the
remainder of its meat as well as the skin ; rub the whole through
a fine sieve, and add the resulting purine to the prepared sauce.
Mix the whole well, and fill the mould with it. Allow to set
well, and turn out on a cushion of rice surrounded by fine
croutons of jelly.

N.B. — By substituting young ducks, young pigeons, or some
kind of game such as pheasant, woodcock, &c., for the
chicken, this recipe may be applied to any piece of poultry or
game.

171 o— SUPREME DE VOLAILLE J E ANNETTE

Poach a fowl ; let it cool ; raise its supremes, and cut each
into four collops, trimmed to the shape of ovals. Coat these
collops with white chaud-froid sauce, and decorate them with
tarragon leaves, blanched, cooled, well-drained and very green.
Let a layer of aspic jelly one-half in. thick set on the bottom
of a timbale or a square dish ; upon this layer set some slices
of foie-gras Parfait, cut to the shape of the collops, and place
one of the latter on each slice of the Parfait. This done, cover
with fine half-melted chicken jelly.

When about to serve, incrust the dish or the timbale in a
block of carved ice.

POULTRY 541

1711— MOUSSE DE VOLAILLE FROIDE

The carefully boned and skinned meat of a poached fowl
may be used in the preparation of this mousse, but a freshly-
roasted fowl, scarcely cooled, is preferable; the latter's flavour
being more delicate and more distinct.

The quantities and the mode of procedure for cold fowl
mousse are those given under " mousse de tomates " (No. 814).

The various mousse recipes which I gave for trout (Nos.
813 and 815) may be applied to cold fillets of fowl. In this case,
the latter may be coated with some kind of chaud-froid sauce,
or simply glazed with jelly, and soberly decorated.

These mousses constitute excellent dishes for suppers, and
from a very long list of them I may quote : —

Mousse de jambon au blanc de poulet.

Mousse de foie gras au blanc de poulet.

Mousse de langue au blanc de poulet.

Mousse de tomates au blanc de poulet.

Mousse d'^crevisses au blanc de poulet.

Mousse d'airelles ou de canneberges au blanc de poulet.

Mousse de physalis au blanc de poulet.

17 12— MAYONNAISE DE VOLAILLE

Garnish the bottom of a salad-bowl with ciseled lettuce,
arranging it in the shape of a dome. Season with a little salt
and a few drops of vinegar. Upon this salad arrange the cold
collops of boiled or roast fowl, carefully cleared of all skin.

Cover with mayonnaise sauce; smooth the latter and decorate
with capers; small stoned olives; anchovy fillets; quartered
hard-boiled eggs; small quartered or whole lettuce hearts.

Arrange these decorating constituents according to fancy,
as no hard and fast rule can be given.

When about to serve, mix as for a salad.

17 13— CHICKEN SALAD

This dish consists of the same ingredients as the preceding
one, except for the mayonnaise, which is replaced by an
ordinary seasoning added just before mixing and serving.

1714— pAti^ de poulet

Line a raised-pie mould with patty paste (No. 2339), taking
care to leave a fine crest.

Bone a fowl weighing about four or five lbs. Set the
supremes (each cut into three collops) to inarinade in a glass

542 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

of brandy, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and five medium-sized peeled
truffles, each cut into four or five thick slices.

With what remains of the fowl's meat, as much lean pork
and veal (mixed in equal quantities) and twice as much fresh,
pork fat (i.e., a quantity equal in weight to all the other
meats put together), prepare a very smooth forcemeat; chopping
the whole first, then pounding it and rubbing it through a
sieve. Add to this forcemeat a little truffle essence; the
marinade of the fillets; one raw egg, and the necessary sea-
soning, to wit : salt, pepper, and nutmeg.

Line the bottom and sides of the pie with this forcemeat;
on this first layer of forcemeat lay a thin slice of bacon and
thick slices of tongue, beef, or ham. Place thereon another
slice of bacon, followed by a thin layer of forcemeat, a layer
of truffle slices, another layer of forcemeat, the collops of fowl,
another layer of forcemeat, one more layer of truffles, one more
layer of forcemeat, and one more layer of tongue or ham
(between two thin slices of bacon) ; and finally cover the whole
with what remains of the forcemeat and a slice of larding
bacon superposed by a bay-leaf. Now close the pie with a
cover of the same paste as that already used, carefully seal
down the cover to the crest of the underlying paste, trim and
pinch the crest, and deck this cover of paste with imitation-
leaves of the same paste.

Make a slit in the top of the pie, for the escape of steam ;
carefully gild the cover and the crest, and bake in a moderate
oven for about one and one-quarter hours. On withdrawing
the pie from the oven, let it half cool, and fill it with a
succulent, chicken jelly. Allow this dish to cool for at least
twenty-four hours before serving.

N.B. — With this recipe as model, and by substituting
another piece of poultry or game for the fowl, raised pies may
be prepared from every kind of game or poultry, except water-
game, which only yields mediocre results.

In the case of game pies, the forcemeat is combined with
cne-sixth of its weight of gratin forcemeat (No. 202) and an
equal quantity of fat bacon is suppressed. The chicken jelly
is also replaced by a jelly prepared from the carcasses of the
birds under treatment.

Dish these raised pies plainly, on napkins, and very cold.

1714a— CHICKEN PIE

See No. 1660.

POULTRY 543

1715— DINDONNEAU (Young Turkey)

Young turkeys, served as relev^s or entries, admit of all
the recipes given for pullets; therefore, in order to avoid
unnecessary repetition, the reader is begged to refer to those
recipes.

Those most generally applied to young turkeys are the ones
termed "k I'Anglaise " — with celery, k la Financi^re, k la
Godard, and k la Jardiniere.

In addition to these preparations, there are others which
are better suited and are more proper to young turkeys, and
these I give below.

17 16— DINDONNEAU FARCI AUX MARRONS

Cut open the shells of two and one-quarter lbs. of chest-
nuts; immerse them for a few seconds in smoking fat; peel
them, and almost completely cook them in consomm^. Then
mix them with two lbs. of very finely-chopped pork, rubbed
through tammy. Fill the bird with this preparation ; truss
it, and roast it on the spit or in the oven, basting frequently
the while.

Serve with the gravy separately. The latter should be

somewhat fat.

1717— DINDONNEAU A LA CATALANE

Cut up the young turkey as for a fricassee, and fry the
pieces in three oz. of butter. When the pieces are nicely
browned, swill the utensil with one pint of white wine; season
with salt and pepper; add a piece, the size of a pea, of
crushed garlic, and completely reduce. Then moisten with
sufficient tomato pur^e and equal quantities of Espagnole and
brown stock to just cover the pieces.

Cook in the oven for forty minutes; transfer the pieces to
another dish after having trimmed them, and add one-half
lb. of raw, quartered mushrooms, sauted in butter; twenty
chestnuts cooked in consomm6; twenty small, glazed onions;
five quartered tomatoes, and ten sausages.

Strain the sauce over the pieces of turkey; complete the
cooking for twenty-five minutes, and dish in a timbale.

1718— DINDONNEAU CHIPOLATA

This may be prepared in two ways, according as to whether
it be intended for lunch or for dinner.

(i) Cut up the young turkey and fry the pieces in butter
as above. Swill with one glassful of white wine; add a suffi-
cient quantity of tomated half-glaze sauce, just to cover the
pieces, and cook in the oven for forty minutes.

544 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

This done, transfer the pieces to another stewpan and add
thereto twenty small, glazed onions, twenty chestnuts cooked
in consomm^, ten chipolata sausages, one-third lb. of frizzled
pieces of fresh pork cut into dice, and twenty olive-shaped and
glazed carrots. Strain the sauce over the whole, complete the
cooking and dish in a timbale.

(2) Braise the young turkey; glaze it at the last moment,
and set on a long dish. Surround it with the garnish given
above, combined with the reduced braising-liquor.

1719— DINDONNEAU EN DAUBE

Bone the young turkey's breast, and stuff it, arranging its
meat as for a galantine, with very good sausage-meat com-
bined with a glassful of liqueur brandy per two lbs. of the
former; bacon, truffles; and a very small and red ox-tongue,
covered with slices of bacon and set in the centre of the
garnish.

Reconstruct the young turkey; sew it; truss it, and put
it in a terrine just large enough to hold it and its moistening.

With the bones and the trimmings of the young turkey,
two slices of veal, two lbs. of frizzled beef, aromatics, one pint
of white wine, and two quarts of water, prepare a brown stock
after recipe No. 9. Reduce this stock to one and one-half
quarts ; put it into the terrine ; cover and thoroughly close up
the latter with a strip of paste, and cook in a hot oven for
two and one-half hours.

Leave to cool in the terrine, and, when about to serve,
slightly heat the latter in order to turn out the daube.

1720— BLANC DE DINDONNEAU A LA DAMPIERRE

Remove and bone the young turkey's legs. With the meat,
carefully cleared of all tendons, prepare a mousseline forcemeat ;
spread the latter on a tray in a layer one-third in. thick, and
poach it. Stamp it out with an even, oval fancy-cutter, about
three in. by two in.

Braise or poele the young turkey's breast with the greatest
care, keeping it underdone. This done, raise the two sufremes,
skin them, and cut them into collops of a size that will allow
of their being trimmed with the fancy-cutter already used.
With a little raw forcemeat, stick a collop to each oval of
poached forcemeat; then, by means of a piping-bag fitted
with an even pipe, garnish the borders of the collops with the
same forcemeat combined with twice its bulk of chopped salted
tongue. Set the medallions thus prepared on a covered tray,
and put them in the steamer that the forcemeat may poach.

POULTRY 545

When about to serve, take the piping-bag and make a
fine rosette of a pur^e of peas in the centre of each medallion.
Set these medallions in a circle on a round dish, around a
little bowl of carved, fried bread, garnished with the same
pur^e of peas.

Serve separately a velout6 prepared from the bones of the
dindonneau.

172 1— BLANC DE DINDONNEAU A LA TOULOUSAINE

Poele the young turkey. When it is cooked, raise its
supremes, skin them, and cut them into somewhat thick collops.

Dish these collops in a circle, and set a collop of foie gras,
sauted in butter, between each.

Pour a Toulousaine garnish in their midst, and surround
with a thread of light glaze.

1722— AILERONS DE DINDONNEAU DOR^S
A LA PURINE DE MARRONS

The pinions referred to in this recipe are pinions properly
so called; that is to say, they consist of the two last joints of
the wing. When they are properly prepared, they constitute
one of the most savoury luncheon entries that can be served.

The pinions of large pullets may be treated in this way.

Clear and singe the pinions, and set them in a buttered
saut^pan, just large enough to hold them. Colour gently on
both sides and drain.

In the same butter, gently brown a sliced carrot and onion,
to which add a few parsley stalks and a little thyme and bay.
Set the pinions on these aromatics ; season moderately with salt
and pepper; cover the saut^pan, and continue cooking gently
in a very slow oven, basting often the while.

The dish will be all the better for having been cooked slowly
and regularly. Do not moisten, if possible, or, at the most,
only do so with a few drops of water, in order to keep the
butter from clarifying — not an unusual occurrence when the
heat is too fierce.

When the pinions are cooked, dish them radially, and cover
them that they may keep warm. Add a few tablespoonfuls of
light stock or some water to the cooking butter, and set to
boil gently for fifteen minutes. When this stock is sufficiently
reduced to only half-immerse the pinions, pass it through a
fine strainer and clear of some of the grease if necessary;
remember, however, that this stock should be somewhat fat.

Pour it over the pinions, and serve a timbale of a fine pur^e
of peas separately.

N N

546 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

i72aa— DINDONNEAU FROID

All the recipes given for cold pullets may be applied to
this bird.

Goose (Oie)

The principal value of the goose from the culinary point of
iew lies in the fact that it supplies the best, most delicate
and firmest foie gras.

Apart from this property, the preciousness of which is truly
inestimable, goose is really only served at bourgeois or family
tables.

1722b— OISON A L'ALLEMANDE

Completely bone the gosling's breast; season it inside, and
stuff it with quartered, peeled and cored apples, half-cooked
in butter.

Sew up the openings, and braise gently, basting with fat
the while.

When the gosling is cooked, dish it and surround it with
peeled apples, cored by means of the tube-cutter, cooked in
butter, and garnished with red-currant jelly. Drain away three-
quarters of the grease; swill the braising-pan with the required
quantity of good gravy for roasts; strain this gravy, and serve
it separately.

1722c— OISON A L'ALSACIENNE

Stuff the gosling with very good sausage-meat ; truss ; colour
in butter and poele. Dish and surround with sauerkraut braised
in goose grease, and rectangles of lean bacon, cooked with the
sauerkraut.

1723— OISON A L'ANQLAISE

Cook one lb. of unpeeled onions in the oven. When
they are cold, peel them; chop them, and add to them an
equal weight of soaked and pressed bread, one oz. of fresh or
chopped sage, salt, pepper and nutmeg.

Stuff the gosling with this preparation; truss it, and roast
it on the spit or in the oven.

Dish it; surround it with the gravy, which should be some-
what fat, and serve a sauceboat of slightly-sugared, stewed
apples, separately.

1724— OISON EN CIVET

When killing the gosling, carefully collect its blood. Add
the juice of a lemon and beat it, so as to prevent coagulation,
until it is quite cold.

POULTRY 547

Cut the gosling into pieces and proceed exactly as for " Civet
de Li^vre " (No. 1801).

1725— OISON AU RAIFORT

Braise the gosling.

Dish it and surround it, either with noodles with butter, or
rice au gras (No. 2252). Besprinkle the garnish with the re-
duced braising-liquor, and serve a horse-radish sauce with cream
(No. 138), separately.

N.B. — Besides these various recipes, goslings may also be
prepared like young turkeys, i.e., with chestnuts, k la Chip-
olata, en Daube; or with turnips, peas, and "en Salmis,"
like Duck.

1726— FOIE GRAS

Foies gras are supplied either by geese or ducks. Goose's
liver is larger, firmer and less readily melted than that of the
duck. As a rule the former should be selected in preference,
more particularly in the matter of hot dishes. Nevertheless,
failing goose's liver, duck's liver may be used and with very
good results when its quality is good.

Foies gras are used in the preparation of terrines, raised
pies, parfaits and mousses, which are among the most delicate
and richest of cold dishes.

They may also be used as a garnishing ingredient, in the
form of coUops or mousseline quenelles. Finally, they may
also be served as hot entries.

When a whole foie gras is to be served hot, it must first be
trimmed, studded with raw truffles which have been previously
peeled, quartered, seasoned with salt and pepper, stiffened in
a glassful of brandy, together with a bay-leaf, and cooled
in a thoroughly closed terrine.

When the foie gras has been studded with truffles, wrap it
in thin slices of bacon or a piece of pig's caul, and set it in
a thoroughly-sealed terrine before cooking it.

The best way to cook foie gras, when it is to be served
whole and hot, is to bake it in a crust of paste that can
absorb the excess of grease produced by the melting of the
liver. For this purpose prepare two layers of patty paste, a
little larger than the liver.

On one of these layers, set the liver wrapped in slices of
bacon; and, if possible, surround it with whole fair-sized
truffles, peeled. Set half a bay-leaf on the liver; moisten the
edges of the paste; cover the whole with the other layer of
paste; seal it down with the thumb, and fold over the edges
of the paste to form a regular, ornamented border which, besides

N N 2

548 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

finishing off the preparation, also increases the strength of the
welding.

Gild the top; streak; make a slit in the top for the escape
of the steam ; and, in the case of a medium-sized liver, cook in
a good, moderate oven for from forty to forty-five minutes.

Serve this crust as it stands, and send the garnish separately.

In the dining-room, the waiter in charge removes the top
of the crust, cuts out the liver with a spoon, setting a piece
on each plate, and arranges around each piece the garnish
mentioned on the menu.

I am not partial to the cooking of foie gras in a terrine
when it is to be served hot. In any case the method described
above strikes me as being much the best, whatever be the
garnish that is served with the liver.

I particularly recommend a garnish of noodles, macaroni,
lazagnes, spaghetti and even rice, with hot foie gras.

These pastes should simply be cooked in water and finished
with cream.

This accompaniment makes the foie gras much more
digestible and palatable. The best garnishes for hot foie gras,
besides those given above, are truffles, whole or in slices,
or a Financi^re. In the matter of brown sauces, a Madeira
sauce suits admirably, provided it be of great delicacy and not
overcharged with Madeira; but a very light buttered, veal or
chicken glaze, combined with a little old Sherry or old Port,
is even superior. A Hongroise sauce with paprika or an excel-
lent supreme sauce may also be served when the garnish admits
of it.
1727— FOIE GRAS CUIT DANS UNE BRIOCHE

For this dish the foie gras is cooked differently ; the result
is almost the same as that yielded by the crust prescribed
above, except that it is much more delicate. This method,
moreover, allows of obtaining a foie gras clear of all grease
(the latter being completely absorbed by the paste), and is
therefore best suited to cold dishing.

After having studded the foie gras with truffles and placed
it in a closed terrine as above, wrap it in slices of bacon, set it
to poach in a moderate oven for twenty minutes, and leave it to
cool.

Line a buttered timbale-mould, of a size in proportion to
that of the liver, with a thick layer of ordinary unsugared
brioche paste (No. 2370).

Put the foie gras upright in the mould, which it should
almost fill; close the timbale with a cover of the same paste;

POULTRY 549

make a slit in the top; surround the top of the mould with a
band of strong, buttered paper, that the paste may be prevented
from running over, and let it rest for about thirty minutes in
a temperature of 86° F. to allow the paste to work.

Bake in a rather hot oven, until a needle inserted through
the centre withdraws quite clean.

Serve the dish as it stands with one of the ordinary foie-
grcis garnishes.

1728— ESCALOPES DE FOIE GRAS A LA PERIQUEUX

Cut some slices two and one-half oz. in weight from a raw
foie gras. Season them with salt and pepper; dip in beaten
egg ; roll in finely-chopped truffle, and saute in clarified butter.

Dish in a circle, and, in the middle, pour a Madeira sauce
flavoured with truffle essence.

1729— ESCALOPES DE FOIE GRAS A LA RAVIQNAN

From a layer of unsugared brioche paste, one-third in.
thick, cut twenty roundels two and one-half in, in diameter. On
ten of these roundels, spread a coating of chicken forcemeat,
leaving a margin one-third in. wide of bare paste on each
roundel.

Set a slice of truffle in the middle, a thick roundel of raw
foie gras on the truffle, another slice of truffle upon that, a coat
of forcemeat over the whole; and cover with the ten remaining
roundels, after having slightly moistened the latter, that the
two edges of paste may be sealed. Press with the back of a
round cutter; gild, and cook in a hot oven for fifteen minutes.

Dish in a circle, and serve a Perigueux sauce at the same
time.

1730— ESCALOPES DE FOIE GRAS A LA TALLEYRAND

Prepare : (i) a crust made in a flawn-mould, six in. in dia-
meter; (2) a garnish of blanched macaroni, cut into lengths of
one in., cohered with four oz. of grated Gruy^re and Parmesan
cheese per lb. of macaroni, and combined with two oz. of
butter, four oz, of a julienne of truffles and four oz. of foie gras
cut into large dice.

Dish in a circle in the crust ten collops of foie gras sauted
in butter, alternating them with fine slices of truffle. Put
the macaroni in the middle, shaping it like a dome, sprinkle
with grated cheese and glaze quickly.

Dish on a napkin, and serve separately a clear chicken
glaze, fla,voured with truffles and well buttered-

550 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

1731— SOUFFLE DE FOIE QRAS

Rub two-thirds lb. of foie gras and three and one-half oz.
of raw truffles through a fine sieve. Mix the two purees in a
basin, and add two-thirds lb. of raw chicken-meat, pounded
with the whites of four eggs, and rubbed through a fine
sieve. Season ; work the preparation on ice, and add to it,
little by little, one-half pint of rich, thick, and very fresh cream,
then the well-stiffened whites of four eggs.

Dish in a buttered souffle saucepan, and poach under cover
in the bain-marie for from thirty to thirty-five minutes.

Serve a Madeira sauce, flavoured with truffle essence,
separately.

1732— TIMBALE DE FOIE GRAS A L'ALSACIENNE

Prepare an ordinary timbale crust. When about to serve,
fill it with layers of noodles with cream, separated by alternate
layers of foie-gras collops, sauted in butter, and slices of truffles.
Complete with some raw noodles, tossed in butter and dis-
tributed over the last layer of cohered noodles.

Cover the timbale, and serve a supreme sauce, flavoured
with truffle essence, separately.

1733— TIMBALE DE FOIE QRAS CAMBACERES

Line a buttered dome-mould with rings of large poached
macaroni.

These rings should be one-fifth inch thick, and should be
garnished inside with very black truffle pur^e, cohered by
means of a little forcemeat.

When the mould is lined, coat it inside with a layer of
chicken forcemeat combined with truffle pur^e. Put the mould
for a few minutes in a moderate oven, that the forcemeat may
poach.

Reduce one-third pint of Bechamel sauce, combined with
four to five tablespoonfuls of truffle and chicken essence, to
half; mix therewith one-half lb. of poached macaroni, cut into
lengths of one inch, and four tablespoonfuls of foie-gras and
truffle pur^e, made from trimmings. Mix the whole thoroughly.

Garnish the timbale with this macaroni, spreading it in
layers, separated by other alternate layers of foie-gras collops,
poached in Madeira, and slices of truffle. Cover the garnish
with a layer of forcemeat, and poach in the bain-marie, allow-
ing forty-five minutes for a quart-mould.

Let the mould stand for a few minutes before emptying it;
turn out the timbale upon a round, dish ; surround it with a

POULTRY 551

border of Pdrlgueux sauce, and serve a sauceboat of P^rigueux
sauce separately.

1734— TIMBALE DE FOIE GRAS MONTESQUIEU

Spread a very even layer, one-third inch thick, of chicken
forcemeat upon a sheet of buttered paper. Moisten the surface
with some white of egg; sprinkle with chopped truffle, and
press on the latter by means of the flat of a knife.

Set to poach gently ; cool, and then stamp out with a round,
even cutter, one inch in diameter. With the resulting
roundels, garnish the bottom and sides of a Charlotte mould,
placing their truffled sides against the mould. Then, with the
view of binding these roundels together, as they are to con-
stitute the outside of the timbale, coat the whole of the mould
inside with some fairly firm chicken forcemeat, combined with a
quarter of its bulk of foie-gras pur^e.

Fill the mould with a foie-gras Parfait with trufiles cut into
very large dice and cohered by means of mousseline chicken
forcemeat.

Cover the whole with a layer of the same forcemeat as that
used for the purpose of binding the roundels, and set to poach
under cover.

Turn out, following the same precautions as above; sur-
round the timbale with a border of nice, pink, Hungarian sauce
with paprika, and send a sauceboat of this sauce to the table
at the same time.

FoiE Gras Froid

1735— A5PIC DE FOIE QRAS

Clothe an even or ornamented mould (fitted with a central
tube) with aspic, and decorate it with poached white of egg and
truffle. Fill it with rows of well-trimmed foie-gras rectangles,
or shells raised by means of a spoon dipped in hot water,
separating each row with a coat of aspic.

Except for its principal ingredient, which may vary, the
preparation of aspic is always the same as that described under
" Aspic de Homard " (No. 954).

For the turning out and dishing, proceed in exactly the
same way.

1736— FOIE QRAS GASTRONOME

Take a plain foie-gras Parfait, i.e., one without a crust;
trim it neatly to the shape of an egg, and completely cover it
with a chaud-froid sauce with paprika. Decorate it according
to fancy, and glaze it with cold melted jelly.

Cut out a crust, proportionate in siz? to the egg, and shape

552 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

it like a cushion. Coat it with a chaud-froid sauce of a different
colour; deck it with softened butter, applied by means of a
piping-bag fitted with a narrow, grooved pipe; set it on the
dish, and place the foie-gras egg upon it.

Surround the cushion with fine fair-sized truffles, glazed
with aspic jelly.

1737— FOIE QRAS AU PAPRIKA

Trim a fine, fresh foie gras; salt it; sprinkle it with a
coffeespoonful of paprika; put it into a saucepan with a large
sliced Spanish onion and a bay-leaf, and cook in the oven for
thirty minutes.

This done, set it instantly in an oval terrine, after having
carefully removed every bit of onion ; cover it with its own
grease; fill up the terrine with jelly, and leave to cool.

Keep in the cool until ready for serving.

N.B. — In Vienna, where this dish is usually served as a
hors-d'oeuvre, with baked potatoes, the onion is not removed.
The foie gras is left to cool in the terrine in which it has cooked,
with all its grease, and it is served thus, very cold.

This piece of information was kindly given to me by
Madame Katinka.

1 73&— ESCALOPES DE FOIE QRAS MAR^CHALE

From a terrine of very firm foie gras cut the required number
of collops, giving them an oval shape. Make a preparation of
" pain de foie gras " (No. 1741) with the remains of the terrine,
and cover the collops with the preparation, shaping the latter
in a dome upon them. Coat these garnished collops with
cream chaud-froid sauce; decorate with a slice of truffle, and
glaze with aspic.

With some foie-gras puree prepare some balls (of the shape
of bigaroons) ; in the centre of each place a little ball of
truffle in imitation of the stone of the fruit, and coat them with
a reddish-brown, chaud-froid sauce. This done, glaze them with
jelly.

Dish the collops round a circular cushion, set upon a very
cold dish ; arrange the bigaroons in a pyramid on the cushion,
and border the dish with fine, jelly croutons.

1739— MOUSSE DE FOIE QRAS

For the preparation of the mousse, see No. 1691. The pro-
cedure and the quantities are always the same, and only the
principal ingredient changes. The moulding is also effected
in the same way in a jelly-cZotfeed and decorated mould, gene-

POULTRY 553

rally just large enough to hold the requisite amount for one
service, or in a silver timbale, incrusted in ice.

1740— MOUSSELINES DE FOIE QRAS

I have oftentimes explained that the substance is the same
from which mousses and mousselines are prepared, and I have
pointed out wherein the difference between them lies.

Just like the other mousselines, those of foie gras are made
in egg- or quenelle-moulds, or others of the same kind. Foie-
gras m,ousselines are, according to circumstances, either simply
glazed with aspic, or coated with chaud-froid sauce and dished
in a timbale with jelly. They may also be moulded in little
paper cases.

1741— PAIN DE FOIE GRAS

From a cold foie gras, braised in Madeira, cut a few collops
and put them aside. Clear the cooking-liquor of all grease,
reduce to half, and add the yolks of four eggs and one-half lb.
of butter, proceeding as for a Hollandaise sauce. Complete
with a grilled, crushed, hazel-nut, two leaves of dissolved gela-
tine, and, when the preparation is only lukewarm, mix there-
with (without working the whole overmuch) what remains of
the foie gras, rubbed through a sieve.

Spread this preparation in layers in an aspic-clothed and
decorated mould, separating each layer with other alternate
layers consisting of the reserved collops and some slices of
truffle.

Cover the last layer with aspic, and set the mould in a re-
frigerator for a few hours.

When about to serve, turn out, and border the dish with
fine, aspic jelly croutons.

1742— PARFAIT DE FOIE QRAS

Fresh foies gras do not bear transport very well, and, when
sent from a distance, often reach their destination tainted. It is,
therefore, difficult, whatever care may have been bestowed on
their preparation, to obtain the results which are achieved by
manufacturers who are renowned for this kind of produce. Con-
sequently, it is preferable to buy the Parfait of foie gras ready-
made from a good firm rather than to try to make it oneself,

1743— PAV6 DE FOIE QRAS LUCULLUS

Let a coat of aspic, one-half inch thick, set on the bottom
of a square timbale, and lay thereon a few slices of truffle. Upon
this jelly spread a layer, two-thirds inch thick, of foie-gras
pur^e, thinned by means of a little melted jelly. When this
puree has set, lay on it a few foie-gras collops and slices of

554 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

truffle; cover with aspic, and continue thus with alternate
layers of pur^e, collops, and aspic. Fill up the mould with
a layer of aspic jelly ; put it in the refrigerator for a few hours,
and dish on a block of ice, cut to the shape of a flagstone.

1744— TIMBALE DE FOIE QRAS TZARINE

Line a timbale-mould with ordinary patty paste, and cover
the inside all over with slices of larding bacon. Just in the
middle set a fresh foie gras, seasoned with salt, pepper, and
allspice; surround it with quails stuffed with a piece of truffle,
and set upright with their breasts against the slices of bacon.
Fill up the mould with whole, raw, and peeled truffles; cover
the whole with a round slice of the same bacon ; cover the
timbale with a layer of paste, well sealed down round the
edges ; make a slit in the top for the escape of steam, and bake
in a good, moderate oven for one and one-quarter hours.

On withdrawing the timbale from the oven, pour into it
some succulent veal stock, flavoured with Madeira, and suffi-
ciently gelatinous to form a nice jelly.

Keep the timbale in the cool for one or two days before
serving it.

Ducks and Ducklings (Canards et Canetons)

Three varieties of the duck family are recognised in cookery,
viz., the Nantes duck, the Rouen duck, and the different kinds
of wild duck. The latter are generally used for roasts and in
salmis.

The Rouen duck is also served more often as a roast than
as an entree. The characteristic trait of its preparation lies
in its being kept very underdone, and it is very rarely braised.
It is killed by suffocation, and not by bleeding, which is the
usual mode of killing other birds.

The Nantes duck, which is similar to the Aylesbury one, is
not so fleshy as the Rouen duck, and may be roasted, poeled,
or braised.

1745— CANETON NANTAIS A LA CHOUCROOTE

Take a piece of manied butter the size of an egg, and insert
it into the duckling with chopped parsley and shallots. Truss
the bird as for an entree; brown it in the oven, and put it in
a stewpan already lined for braising.

Moisten, just enough to cover, with white veal stock and
Rhine wine (in the proportion of two-thirds of the former to
one-third of the latter), or ordinary good white wine, and
braise slowly until cooking is completed..

POULTRY 555

Meanwhile, braise in the usual way two lbs. of sauerkraut
with one-half lb. of salted breast of pork.

When it is three-parts done, drain it, and complete its
cooking with one-third pint of veal gravy and one-sixth pint
of white wine, until this moistening is completely reduced.

Set the sauerkraut in a border round a dish, and surround
it with the pork cut into small rectangles. Place the carved
duck in the centre, and coat it moderately with half-glaze sauce
combined with the reduced braising-liquor. Send the remains
of this sauce separately.

1746— CANETON D'AYLESBURY POELE A LA MENTHE

Stuff the duckling with one oz. of butter combined with a
pinch of chopped mint, and poele it. Dish it; swill the stew-
pan with one-sixth pint of clear, veal gravy and a little lemon
juice; strain, add a pinch of chopped mint, and pour this sauce
over the duckling.

1747— CANETON MOLIERE

Bone the duckling, and stuff it with one lb. of gratin foie-
gras forcemeat, combined with two-thirds lb. of good sausage-
meat. Set tw^o rows of truffles in the middle of the thickest part
of the forcemeat, lengthwise, along the duckling. Reconstruct ;
sew up the skin, wrap in a serviette, after the manner of a
galantine, and poach in a stock made from the carcass.

Glaze the duckling with some of this stock, strained, cleared
of all grease, and reduced. With what remains prepare a
Madeira sauce, and add thereto two oz. of sliced truffles.

Dish the duckling, after having removed all stitches from
it, and coat it with this sauce.

1748— CANETON BRAIS6 AUX NAVETS

Brown the duckling well in butter, and withdraw it from
the saucepan.

Drain away the butter; swill with a little white wine; add
two-thirds pint of brown stock, as much Espagnole, and a
faggot ; return the duck to this sauce, and braise gently.

With the reserved butter brown one lb. of turnips, shaped
like elongated garlic-cloves, and sprinkle them with a large
pinch of powdered sugar, that they may be glazed to a nice,
light brown colour. Also have ready twenty small onions,
which should have been gently cooked in butter.

When the duckling is half cooked, transfer it to another
saucepan ; put the turnips and the onions round it ; strain the
§ayce over the whole, and complete the cooking gently.

556 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

Dish with the garnish of turnips and onions, arranged round
the bird.

1749— CANETON AUX OLIVES

Prepare the duckling as above, and keep the sauce short and
succulent. A few minutes before serving, add one-half lb. of
stoned and blanched olives. Glaze the duckling at the last
moment, and dish it surrounded with the olives and the sauce.

1750— CANETON BRAIS6 A L'ORANQE

This braised duckling must not be confused with roast duck-
ling, which is also served " a I'orange," for the two dishes are
quite distinct.

As in the case of the roast, this duckling may be prepared
with Seville oranges; but, in this case, the sections of orange
must not appear as garnish, owing to their bitterness, and only
the juice is used for the sauce.

Braise the duckling in one-third pint of brown stock and
two-thirds pint of Espagnole sauce, and cook it sufficiently to
allow of its being cut with a spoon.

Clear the sauce of grease; reduce it to a stiff consistence;
rub it through tammy, and add the juice of two oranges and
one half-letnon to it, which should bring the sauce back to its
original consistence.

Now add a julienne of the blanched yellow part only of the
rind of a half-orange and a half-lemon, but remember that the
addition of the juice and rind of the orange and the half-lemon
only takes place at the last moment, after which the sauce must
not boil again. Glaze the duckling, dish it, coat it slightly
with sauce, and surround it with sections of orange, skinned
raw.

Serve what remains of the sauce separately.

1 75 1— CANETON AUX PETITS POIS

Brown in butter six oz. of salted breast of pork, cut into
large dice and blanched, and fifteen small onions. Drain the
pork and the onions, and set the duckling to fry in the same
butter. When it is well coloured, remove the butter; swill
with a little brown stock, and add one-half pint of thin, half-
glaze sauce, one and one-half pints of fresh peas, one faggot,
the pork dice and the onions, and complete the cooking of the
whole gently.

Dish the duckling, and cover it with the garnish and the
sauce, after having withdrawn the faggot therefrom and re-
duced the sauce §0 that it only just covers the garnish,

POULTRY 557

1752— pAte chaud de caneton

Roast the duckling, keeping it somewliat underdone, and
cut the whole of the breast into long collops or very thin slices.
Line a buttered Charlotte mould with short paste, and cover
the whole of the inside with a layer of gratin forcemeat
(No. 202), combined with four tablespoonfuls of very reduced
half-glaze sauce per one and two-thirds lb. of forcemeat — the
necessary quantity for this pie.

On the layer of forcemeat arrange a litter of the slices of
breast; sliced, cooked mushrooms, and slices of truffle; and
fill the mould in this way, taking care to alternate the layers
of forcemeat, slices of breast, &c. Complete with a coat of
forcemeat, upon which sprinkle a pinch of powdered thyme
and bay-leaf; close the mould with a thin layer of paste, sealed
down round the edges; make a slit in the top; gild, and bake
in a moderate oven for one hour.

When taking the pie out of the oven, turn it upside-down
on a dish; detach the base; cut the latter into triangles, and
set these triangles round the pie. Cover the forcemeat, thus
bared, with a few tablespoonfuls of Madeira sauce; set a large,
grooved, cooked mushroom just in the middle, and surround it
with a crown of sliced truffle.

Serve a Madeira sauce separately.

•753— BALLOTINES DE CANETON

Bone the duckling, and completely clear the bones of all
meat.

Remove all tendons from the latter, and chop it, together
with half its weight of veal, as much fresh pork fat, a third as
much panada (No. 190), the yolks of four eggs, one-half oz. of
salt, and a little pepper and nutmeg. Pound; rub through a
sieve, and mix with this forcemeat, three oz. of gratin foie-gras
forcemeat and three oz. of chopped mushrooms, sauted in butter.
Divide up into portions weighing two oz. ; wrap each portion
in a piece of the duckling's skin ; envelop in muslin, and poach
in a stock prepared from the duckling's carcass. At the last
moment, remove the pieces of muslin and glaze the ballotines.

Dish in a circle, and set the selected garnish, which may be
turnips, peas, olives, or sauerkraut, &c., in the middle.

» 754— CANETON ROUENNAIS

Except for the one case when they are served cold "h
la cuiller, ' ' Rouen ducklings are not braised : they are roasted
and always kept underdone. When they have to be stuffed,
the forcemeat is prepared as follows : — Fry four oz. of larding

558 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

bacon, cut into dice, with one oz. of chopped onion, and add
one-half lb. of sliced ducks' livers, a pinch of chopped parsley,
salt, pepper, and a little spice.

Keep the livers underdone, merely stiffened; let the whole
half-cool; pound, and rub through a fine sieve.

1755— AIQUILLETTES DE ROUENNAIS A LA BIGARRADE

Poele the duckling and only just cook it, bearing in mind
that twenty minutes is the time allowed for cooking a fair-sized
bird. Remove the fillets lengthwise, each in ten slices, and
set the latter on a lukewarm dish.

Add a few tablespoonfuls of veal gravy to the ^oeZin^-liquor ;
set to boil for a few minutes ; strain clear of grease, and finish
as directed under sauce Bigarrade claire (No 31).

Cover the slices of breast with some of the sauce, and serve
the remainder separately. " Aiguillettes " (or thin slices of
breast cut lengthwise) k I'orange are prepared in the same
way, except that they are surrounded with sections of orange,
skinned raw.

1756— AIQUILLETTES DE ROUENNAIS AUX CERISES

Prepare the duckling as above, but add a little Madeira to
the braising-liquor. Clear the latter of grease; thicken with
arrowroot; strain through muslin, and add one-half lb. of
stoned morello cherries, at the last moment. Set the cherries
round the aiguillettes; coat the latter thinly with sauce, and
serve what remains of the latter, separately.

1757— AIQUILLETTES DE ROUENNAIS AUX TRUFFES

Poele the duckling, and only just cook it.

Add one-sixth pint of Chambertin wine to the ^oeZm^-liquor,
and cook therein five medium-sized, peeled truffles. This done,
reduce the liquor, clear of grease, strain it, and add it to a
somewhat light Rouennaise sauce.

Raise the duckling's aiguillettes, slice the truffles, and set on
a lukewarm dish, alternating the aiguillettes with the slices
of truffle.

Coat thinly with sauce, and send what remains of the latter
separately,

1758— CANETON ROUENNAIS AU CHAMPAQNE

Poele the duckling as above.

Add one-half pint of dry Saint Marceaux champagne to the
poeling-liquoT ; reduce, and complete with one-sixth pint of
thickened, veal stock.

POULTRY 5S9

Strain this sauce through muslin; clear it of grease, and
send it in a sauceboat at the same time as the duckling.

1759— CANETONl ROUENNAIS EN CHEMISE

StuiT the duckling with the preparation given under No.
1754; truss it as for an entrde; insert it into a well-soaked
bladder, and string the end of the latter close to the bird's tail.
Wrap the bladder in a napkin, also strung, and poach gently
for about forty-five minutes in a very strong brown stock.
When about to serve, remove the napkin, and leave the duck-
ling in the bladder.

Serve a Rouennaise sauce as an accompaniment.

1760— CANETON ROUENNAIS AU PORTO

Roast the duckling " en casserole," keeping it only just
done.

Swill with one-fifth pint of port wine; reduce to half, and
add this reduced swilling-liquor to one-half pint of duckling
gravy, thickened with arrowroot.

1761— CANETON ROUENNAIS A LA PRESSE

Roast the duckling for twenty minutes, and send it instantly
to the table, where it should be treated as follows : — Remove the
legs, which are not served; carve the fillets into fine slices, laid
one against the other on a lukewarm dish.

Chop up the carcass and press it, sprinkling it the while
with a glassful of good red wine. Collect the gravy; add
thereto a few drops of brandy, and with this liquor sprinkle
the slices of breast, which should have been well seasoned.

Put the dish on a chafer, and thoroughly heat without allow-
ing to boil.

Serve instantly.

1762— CANETON FARCI A LA ROUENNAISE

Stuff the duckling with the forcemeat given under No. 1754,
and roast it before a fierce fire for from twenty-five to thirty
minutes, according to its size.

Send a Rouennaise sauce to the table with it.

If it be served carved, remove the legs, cisel them inside,
season them well with salt and pepper, and grill them.

Cut the fillets into thin slices, set these on either side of a
long dish, and, in the middle, place the forcemeat withdrawn
from the inside.

Set the grilled legs at either end of the dish.

Roughly chop up the carcass and press it, sprinkling it

S6o GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

the while with a glass of liqueur-brandy and a few drops of
lemon juice. Add the collected gravy to the Rouennaise sauce;
coat the slices of breast thinly with sauce, and serve what
remains of the sauce separately.

1763— SALMIS DE CANETON A LA ROUENNAISE

After having suppressed the clavicle, truss the duckling.

Put it in a red oven, where it should only stay eight minutes,
i.e., four minutes each side.

If possible, let it cool for a few minutes, that it may be more
easily carved. Take care, also, to wipe it, for, as a rule, the
fierceness of the oven blackens it. Remove the legs; cisel
them inside; season and grill them.

Sprinkle a long, buttered dish with chopped shallots, kitchen
salt not too finely powdered, freshly-ground pepper, nutmeg,
and allspice.

Cut the fillets into very thin slices lengthwise, fifteen from
each fillet, and set them one against the other on the dish.
Sprinkle them with the same seasoning as that lying on the dish,
except for the shallots.

Remove the remaining stumps of the wings, as also the
small, remaining skin of the breast; season both, and set them
to grill by the side of the legs. Roughly chop up the carcass;
press it while sprinkling it with half a glassful of red wine,
and sprinkle'the slices of breast with the collected gravy.

When about to serve, set a few small pieces of butter on
the slices of breast; heat for a moment on the stove, and put
the dish in a very hot oven, or at the salamander, that the
glazing may be instantaneous.

Withdraw the dish the moment the edges of the aiguillettes
begin to curl, set the grilled legs at either end of the dish, the
two wing-stumps, with the skin of the breast, in the middle, and
serve immediately.

1764— SOUFFLE DE CANETON ROUENNAIS

Poele the duckling, and only just cook it.

Raise tlie supr ernes, and keep them hot, and cut the bones
from the carcass in such a way as to imitate a case, as I described
in a number of pullet recipes. With the duckling's liver, the
raw meat of another half-duckling, the white of an egg, and
three oz. of raw foie gras, prepare a mousseline forcemeat.

Fill the carcass with this forcemeat, shaping it so as to re-
construct the bird. Surround it with a band of strong, buttered
paper, so as to avoid loss of shape, and poach gently, under
cover, for twenty minutes.

POULTRY 561

With some reserved forcemeat, combined with an equal
weight of foie-gras puree, garnish some tartlet crusts, and poach
them at the same time as the souffle.

Dish the piece; surround it with the tartlets; set a collop of
supreme on each of the latter, and serve a Rouennaise sauce
separately.

Canetons Froids

1765— CANETON A LA CUILLER

Braise the duckling with Madeira, and cook it well.

Put into a terrine just large enough to hold it; cover with
the braising-liquor, strained through a napkin, and combined
with enough aspic jelly to completely coat the duckling. Leave
to cool.

When about to serve, clear the surface of grease, first by
means of a spoon, then with boiling water, and dish on a
napkin.

1766— CANETON GLACE AUX MANDARINES

Poele the duckling, and let it cool in its liquor.

When it is quite cold, set it on its back ; glaze it with aspic
jelly, and place it on a low rice or carved-bread cushion lying
on a long dish.

Surround it with emptied tangerines, filled with cold mousse
made from ducklings' livers and foie gras. Alternate the tan-
gerines with small timbales of aspic, combined with the foeling-
liquor and the juice squeezed from the sections of the
tangerines.

1767— CANETON QLAC^ AUX CERISES

Roast the duckling, and keep it underdone.

When it is quite cold, remove the breast, and remove the
bones in such wise as to form a case with the carcass. Cut
each fillet into eight thin slices ; coat them with a brown chaud-
froid sauce, and decorate with truffles. Fill the carcass with
a mousse made from the remains of the meat, the duckling's
liver, and some foie gras, and shape it so as to imitate the con-
vex breast of the bird.

Glaze with aspic, and set in the refrigerator, that the mousse
may harden. When the latter is firm, lay the chaud-froid-
coated collops upon it, and set the piece in a deep, square dish.
Surround with cold, stoned, morello cherries, poached in
Bordeaux wine, and cover these with an aspic jelly flavoured
with duckling essence.

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562 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

1768— AIGUILLETTES DE CANETONS A L'^CARLATE

Poele a Rouen duckling until it is just cooked, and let it
cool in its liquor. Raise the fillets; skin them, and cut them
each into eight thin slices. Coat them with a brown chaud-
froid sauce, and decorate with truffles. Prepare an equal
number of slices of tongue the size and shape of the slices of
duckling, and coat them with aspic.

With the remains and the meat of the legs, prepare a
mousse, and pour it into a square or oval silver dish ; let it cool,
and then set the aiguillettes of duckling and the slices of tongue
upon it, alternating them in so doing, and cover the mousse
with aspic.

1769— MOUSSE ET MOUSSELINES
DE CANETON ROUENNAIS

These are prepared with the same quantities as the chicken
mousses and mousselines, but they allow of no other sauce than
the Rouennaise or the Bigarrade, nor of any other garnishes
than sections of orange, cherries, vegetable purees, or creams.

1770— MOUSSE DE CANETON ROUENNAIS

With the exception of the nature of the principal ingredient,
the preparation, quantities, and moulding of this m.ousse are
the same as for chicken mousse. The reader is, therefore,
begged to refer to No. 1650, which may be applied perfectly
well to Rouen duckling.

1 77 1— SOUFFLE FROID DE CANETON A L'ORANQE

Proceed as for the " Caneton aux cerises," but with this
difference, that the duckling is used entirely for the mousse.

Serve, similarly, in a square dish, and surround with sec-
tions of oranges skinned raw. Cover with an aspic jelly
flavoured with the juice of Seville oranges, and combined with
a liqueur-glassful of cura9ao per pint of jelly.

1772— TERRINE DE CANETON ROUENNAIS A LA GELEE

First prepare the following forcemeat: — Heat three oz. of
fat bacon, cut into small dice, and three oz. of butter in a
frying-pan. Throw six fine ducks' livers (seasoned with salt
and pepper, and sprinkled with a pinch of powdered thyme,
bay-leaf, and half an onion chopped) into this fat. Toss them
over a fierce fire, just long enough to heat them ; leave them
to cool, and rub them through a sieve.

Bone the breast of a Rouen duckling and its back as far
as the region of the legs, and suppress the tail. Stuff it wi'th
the preparation given above; truss as for an entree, and put

POULTRY 563

it in a terrine just large enough to hold it. Sprinkle it with
a glassful of brandy; cover with a slice of bacon, and cook it
in the bain-marie, in the oven, and under cover for forty
minutes.

With the carcass and some strong veal stock, prepare two-
thirds pint of excellent aspic, and, when withdrawing the
duckling from the oven, cover it with this aspic, and let it cool.
When about to serve, remove all grease, first by means of a
spoon, and then by means of boiling water, and set the terrine
on a napkin lying on a long dish.

1773— TIMBALE DE CANETON A LA VOISIN

Roast a Rouen duckling, and keep it underdone ; let it cool,
and raise its fillets. With the carcass prepare a Salmis sauce,
and thicken it with aspic as for a chaud-froid sauce.

Cut theHllets into slices, coat them with Salmis sauce, and
leave this to set. Let a thickness of sauce set on the bottom of
a timbale.

Upon this sauce lay some of the coated slices, alternating
them with slices of truffle, and cover with a thin layer of aspic
jelly. Lay another row of slices of fillet and of truffles, followed
as before by a layer of aspic, and continue thus in the same
order. Complete with a somewhat thick layer of aspic, and
keep in the cool until ready for serving.

N.B. — This old and excellent cold entree is really only a
cold salmis. The procedure may be applied to all game suited
to the salmis method of preparation. It is the simplest and
certainly the best way of serving them cold.

1774— PINTADES (GUINEA FOWL)

The guinea-fowl is not equal to the pheasant from the gas-
tronomical standpoint, though it often takes the place of the
latter among the roasts after the shooting season. But, though
it has neither the fine flavour nor the delicate meat of the
pheasant, it does good service notwithstanding. The majority
of pheasant recipes may be applied to it, especially k la
Boh^mienne, k la creme, en Chartreuse, en salmis, k la chou-
croute, &c.
•775— PIGEONS AND SQUABS (PIGEONS ET PIGEONNEAUX)

Young pigeons are not very highly esteemed by English
gourmets, and this is more particularly to be regretted, since,
when the birds are of excellent quality, they are worthy the

1776— PIGEONNEAUX A LA BORDELAISE

Open the squabs down the back; season them; slightly
flatten them, and toss them in butter. They may just as

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564 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

well be halved as left whole. Dish, and surround with the
garnish given under " Poulet k la Bordelaise " (No. 1538).

1777— PIQEONNEAUX EN CASSEROLE A LA PAYSANNE

Cook the squabs in the oven in an earthenware saucepan.

When they are two-thirds done, surround them with one and
one-half oz. of salted breast of pork, cut into small dice and
blanched, and two oz. of sliced and sauted potatoes for each
pigeon. Complete the cooking of the whole gently, and, when
about to serve, add a little good gravy.

1778— PIQEONNEAUX EN CHARTREUSE

Prepare the Chartreuse in a Charlotte mould, as explained
under No. 1182. Line the bottom and sides with a layer of
braised, drained, and pressed cabbages; in the centre set the
squabs, cooked " a la casserole " and cut into two lengthwise,
and alternate them with small rectangles of blanched, salted
breast of pork, and sausage roundels. Cover with cabbages,
and steam in a bain-marie for thirty minutes.

Let the Chartreuse stand for five minutes after withdrawing
from the bain-marie ; turn out on a round dish, and surround
with a few tablespoonfuls of half-glaze sauce.

1779— PIQEONNEAUX EN CRAPAUDINE

Cut the young pigeons horizontally in two, from the apex
of the breast to the wings. Open them; flatten them slightly;
season them ; dip them in melted butter, roll them in bread-
crumbs, and grill them gently.

Serve a devilled sauce at the same time.

1780— PIQEONNEAUX EN COMPOTE

Fry in butter two oz. of blanched, salted breast of pork and
two oz. of raw mushrooms, peeled and quartered. Drain the
bacon and the mushrooms, and set the squabs, trussed as for
an entree, to fry in the same butter.

Withdraw them when they are brown ; drain them of butter ;
swill with half a glassful of white wine; reduce the latter, and
add sufficient brown stock and half-glaze sauce (tomated), in
equal quantities, to cover the birds. Plunge them into this
sauce, with a faggot, and simmer until they are cooked and
the sauce is reduced to half.

This done, transfer the squabs to another saucepan; add
the pieces of bacon, the mushrooms, and six small onions,
glazed with butter, for each bird; strain the sauce over the

POULTRY 565

whole through a fine sieve; simmer for ten minutes more, and
serve very hot.

178 1— PIGEON PIE

Line the bottom and sides of a pie-dish with very thin,
flattened collops of lean beef, seasoned with salt and pepper,
and sprinkled with chopped shallots.

Set the quartered pigeons inside the dish, and separate them
with a halved hard-boiled egg-yolk for each pigeon. Moisten
half-way up with good gravy ; cover with a layer of puff paste ;
gild; streak; make a slit in the top, and bake for about one and
one-half hours in a good, moderate oven.

1782— VOL AU VENT DE PIQEONNEAUX

Suppress the feet and the pinions; foele the squabs, and
only just cook them.

Cut each bird into four, and mix them with a garnish " a la
Financi^re " (No. 1474) combined with the ^oeZin^-liquor.
Pour the whole into a vol-au-vent crust, and dish on a napkin.

1783— C6TELETTES DE PIQEONNEAU A LA NESLES

Cut them in two, and reserve the claw, which serves as the
bone of the cutlet. Flatten them slightly; season, and fry them
in butter on one side only. Cool them under slight pressure ;
coat their fried side, dome-fashion, with some godiveau with
cream, combined with a third of its bulk of gratin forcemeat
and chopped truffles. Set them on a tray, and place in a
moderate oven to complete the cooking, and poach the force-
meat. Dish in a circle, and separate the cutlets with collops
of veal sweetbreads, dipped in beaten eggs, rolled in bread-
crumbs, and tossed in butter. Garnish their midst with mush-
rooms and sliced fowls' livers, tossed in butter and cohered
with a few tablespoonfuls of Madeira sauce.

1784— COTELETTES DE PIQEONNEAUX EN PAPILLOTES

Cut the pigeons in two, as above ; stiffen them in butter, and
enclose them in papillotes as explained under " Cdtelettes de
Veau en Papillotes " (No. 1259).

1785— CdTELETTES DE PIQEONNEAUX A LA 5EVIQNE

Saute the half-pigeons in butter, and leave them to cool
under slight pressure. Garnish their cut sides dome-fashion
with a salpicon of white chicken-meat, mushrooms, and
truffles, the whole cohered by means of a cold Allemande sauce.

Dip them in beaten egg, roll them in bread-crumbs, and
cook them gently in clarified butter.

566 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

Dish them in a circle; garnish their midst with asparagus-
heads cohered with butter, and serve a light, Madeira sauce
separately.

1786— SUPREMES DE PIGEONNEAUX A LA DIPLOMATE

Raise the fillets and slightly flatten them ; stiffen them in
butter, and leave them to cool under slight pressure. This
done, dip them in a Villeroy sauce, combined with chopped
herbs and mushrooms, and cool them. Dip each fillet in beaten
egg; roll them in bread-crumbs, and fry just before serving.

Dish in a circle, and in their midst set a heap of fried
parsley. Send separately a garnish of pigeon quenelles, mush-
rooms, and small, olive-shaped truffles, to which a half-glaze
sauce flavoured with pigeon essence has been added.

1787— SUPREMES DE PIGEONNEAUX A LA SAINT=CLAIR

With the meat of the legs prepare a mousseline forcemeat,
and, with the latter, make some quenelles the size of small
olives, and set them to poach. Poele the breasts, without
colouration, on a thick litter of sliced onions, and keep them
underdone. Add a little veloute to the onions; rub them
through tammy, and put the quenelles in this sauce.

In the middle of a shallow croustade, set a pyramid of cepes
tossed in butter. Raise the fillets; skin them, and set them on
the cepes ; coat them with the prepared sauce ; surround with a
thread of meat glaze, and place the quenelles all round.

1788— SUPREMES DE PIGEONNEAUX A LA MARIGNY

Cut off the legs, and, with their meat, prepare a forcemeat.
Poach the latter on a tray, and stamp it out with an oval cutter
into pieces the size of the supr ernes.

Cover the breasts with slices of bacon, and poele them,
taking care to only just cook them.

Quickly raise the suprenies, skin them, and set each upon
an oval of forcemeat, sticking them on by means of a little
gratin forcemeat.

Put the supremes in the oven for a moment, that this
forcemeat may poach. Dish the supremes round a pyramid
consisting of a smooth pur^e of peas, and coat with a velout^
sauce, finished with an essence prepared from the remains and
the poeling-Xiquov of the breasts.

1789— SUPREMES DE PIGEONNEAUX AUX TRUFFES

Raise the supremes, flatten them slightly; toss them in
clarified butter, and set them on a border of smooth forcemeat.

GAME 567

laid on a dish by means of a piping-bag, and poached in the
front of the oven.

Swill the vegetable-pan with Madeira; add four fine slices
of truffle for each supreme, and a little pale melted meat glaze,
and finish with a moderate amount of butter.

Coat the supremes with this sauce, and set the slices of
truffle upon it,

1790— MOUSSELINES DE PIQEONNEAUX

A l'6picurienne

Prepare and poach these mousselines like the chicken ones,
but make them a little smaller. Dish them in the form of a
crown; set thereon a young pigeon's fillet roasted, and in their
midst arrange a garnish of peas with lettuce. Coat with a
jumet prepared from the carcasses and cohered with a few table-
spoonfuls of velout^.

N.B. — Pigeons and squabs may also be prepared after the
recipes given for chicks.

Releves and Entrees
GAME

VENISON AND GROUND GAME

The Stag (Fr. Cerf) and the fallow deer (Fr. Daim) supply
the only venison that is consumed in England, where the roe-
buck (Fr. Chevreuil) is not held in very high esteem. True, the
latter's flesh is very often mediocre in quality, and saddles and
legs of roebuck often have to be imported from the Continent
when they are to appear on an important menu.

On the other hand, venison derived from the stag or red deer
and the fallow deer proper is generally of superior quality. The
former has perhaps more flavour, but the latter, which is sup-
plied by animals bred in herds on large private estates, has no
equal as far as delicacy and tenderness are concerned, while it
is covered with white and scented fat, which is greatly appre-
ciated by English connoisseurs.

Although these two kinds of venison are generally served
as releves, they belong more properly to the roasts, and I shall
give their recipes a little later on. In any case, only half of
the hind-quarters (that is to say, the leg together with that
part of the saddle which reaches from it to the floating ribs)
is served at high-class tables.

I shall now, therefore, only give the various recipes dealing
with roebuck, it being understood that these, if desired, may
be applied to corresponding joints of the stag or deer.

568 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

1791— SELLE DE CHEVREUIL ET CUISSOT

Saddles and legs of roebuck may be prepared after the same
recipes, and allow of the same garnishes. The recipes for
saddle which I give hereafter may therefore be applied equally
well to legs.

Whichever joint be selected, it must first be cleared of all
tendons and then larded with larding bacon. The last opera-
tion is no more essential than is the marinading which in
France has become customary with such pieces. It might even
be said with justice that marinading is not only useless, but
harmful, more particularly in the case of young animals whose
meat has been well hung.

Unlike many other specimens of game, roebuck has to be
eaten fresh; it does not suit it to be in the least tainted. I
should like to point out here that game shot in ambush is
best, owing to the fact that animals killed after a chase decom-
pose very quickly, and thereby lose a large proportion of their
flavour.

The saddle of the roebuck generally consists of the whole of
the latter's back, from the withers to the tail, in which case
the bones of the ribs are cut very short, that the joint may lie
steady at all points.

At the croup-end, cut the joint on either side diagonally,
from the point of the haunch to the root of the tail. Sometimes,
however, the saddle only consists of the lumbar portion of the
back, and, in this case, the ribs are cut up to be cooked as
cutlets.

1792— SELLE DE CHEVREUIL A L'ALLEMANDE

Marinade the saddle for two or three days in raw marinade
No. 169, and roast it, on a narrow baking-tray, upon the vege-
tables of the marinade.

As soon as the joint is cooked, withdraw it; swill the tray
with a little marinade, and almost entirely reduce. Clear of
grease ; add two-thirds pint of cream and one powdered juniper
berry; reduce by a third; complete with a few drops of melted
glaze, and rub through tammy.

Serve this sauce at the same time as the saddle, which set
on a long dish.

1793— 5ELLE DE CHEVREUIL A LA BADEN-BADEN

The saddle should be marinaded and well dried before being
set to cook.

Poele it on the vegetables of the marinade.

When it is cooked, put it on a long dish, and, at either end

GAME 569

of it, set a garnish of stewed pears, unsugared, but flavoured
with cinnamon and lemon-rind. Pour one-third pint of game
stock into the tray in which the joint was cooked ; cook for ten
minutes; strain; clear of grease, and thicken with arrowroot.

Serve this thickened stock separately, and send some red-
currant jelly to the table at the same time.

1794— SELLE DE CHEVREUIL AUX CERISES

Keep the saddle for twelve hours in marinade (No. 169)
made from verjuice instead of vinegar. Roast it on the spit,
basting it with the marinade, and keep it slightly underdone.

At the same time, serve a cherry sauce consisting of equal
quantities of poivrade sauce and red-currant jelly, to each pint
of which add three oz. of semi-candied cherries, set to soak in
hot water thirty minutes beforehand.

N.B. — This saddle need not be marinaded if it be desired
plain.

1795— SELLE DE CHEVREUIL A LA CUMBERLAND

Roast it like a haunch of venison, without marinading it.
Send it to the table with a timbale of French beans, cohered
with butter, and serve a Cumberland sauce (No. 134) separately.

1796— SELLE DE CHEVREUIL A LA CREOLE

Marinade it for a few hours only, and roast it on the spit,
basting it the while with the marinade.

Set it on a long dish, and surround it with bananas tossed
in butter.

At the same time serve a Roberts sauce, combined with a
third of its bulk of Poivrade sauce, and one oz. of fresh butter
per pint.

1797— SELLE DE CHEVREUIL A LA BEAUJEU

Lard and roast it. Set it on a long dish, and surround it
with artichoke-bottoms, garnished with lentil puree, and alter-
nated with chestnuts cooked in a small quantity of consomm^
and glazed.

Serve a venison sauce separately.

1798— SELLE DE CHEVREUIL AU QENIEVRE

Lard the saddle, and roast it. Swill the baking-tray with
a small glassful of burned gin ; add one powdered juniper berry
and one-sixth pint of double cream. Reduce the cream to half;
complete with a few tablespoonfuls of poivrade sauce and a few
drops of lemon juice. Serve this sauce with the saddle, and
send separately some hot stewed apples, very slightly
sugared.

570 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

1799— SELLE DE CHEVREUIL AVEC SAUCES DIVERSES

Saddle of roebuck may also be served with the following
sauces: — Poivrade, Venison, Grand- Veneur, Moscovite,
Roberts, &c. The selected accompaniment determines the title
of the dish.

1800— NOISETTES ET c6TELETTES DE CHEVREUIL

The same recipes may be applied to both. Trim them after
the manner of lamb noisettes or cutlets. They may be mode-
rately -marinaded, but they may also be used fresh. In the
latter case, fry them in butter over a somewhat fierce fire, like
the lamb noisettes.

If they have been marinaded, it is better to toss them very
quickly in very hot oil, and then to dry them before dishing
them.

It is in the dishing only that the noisettes and the cutlets
differ; for, whereas the latter are always dished in a crown,
one overlapping the other, or each separated from the rest by
croutons of bread-crumb fried in butter, the noisettes are always
dished in a circle on small, oval croutons fried in butter, or on
tartlet crusts containing some kind of garnish.

1801— COTELETTES DE CHEVREUIL CONTI

Saute the cutlets in very hot oil ; dry them ; dish them
in a crown, and separate them by similarly-shaped collops
of salted tongue.

Swill the saucepan with a little white wine; add this liquor
to a Poivrade sauce, and coat the cutlets with it.

Serve a light, buttered pur^e of lentils at the same time.

1803— c6TELETTES DE CHEVREUIL DIANE

Spread an even layer, one-third inch thick, of mousseline
game forcemeat on a tray. Poach this forcemeat in a steamer
or in a very moderate oven, and cut it into triangles equal in
size to the cutlets.

Toss the latter as already explained; dish them in a crown,
and separate them by croutons of forcemeat already prepared.

Coat the whole with poivrade sauce, thinned by means of
a little beaten cream, and garnished with crescents of truffle
and hard-boiled white of egg, and serve a pur^e of chestnuts
at the same time.

J 803— NOISETTES DE CHEVREUIL AU QENIEVRE

Cook the noisettes in smoking oil. Dry them, dish them,

GAME 571

and coat them with the same sauce as that given under " Selle
au Geni^vre " (No. 1798).

Serve some stewed apples at the same time.

1804— NOISETTES DE CHEVREUIL ROMANOFF

Cook the noisettes; set them on stuffed sections of cucumber,
prepared after No. 2124a, and place a slice of truffle on each
noisette. Coat with a Poivrade sauce with cream, and serve
a mushroom pur^e separately.

1805— NOISETTES DE CHEVREUIL VALENCIA

Cook the noisettes, and dish them in a circle, each on a
round crouton of brioche fried in butter, and coat lightly with
bigarrade sauce.

Serve a sauceboat of bigarrade sauce and an orange salad
at the same time.

1806— NOISETTES DE CHEVREUIL VILLENEUVE

Carefully clear the meat of the roebuck of all tendons, and
chop it up with a knife, combining with it the while the third
of its weight of fresh butter, as much bread-crumb, soaked in
milk, and pressed, and one-third pint of fresh cream per lb. of
meat. Season, divide into portions weighing two oz., mould
to a nice round shape, wrap in pig's caul, cook quickly at the
last moment, and dish in the form of a crown.

Coat with Chasseur sauce, and send a timbale of celery
pur^e separately.

1807— NOISETTES DE CHEVREUIL WALKYRIE

Saute the noisettes in the usual way, and dish" them in the
form of a crown, each on a small quoit of " Pommes Berny "
(No. 2184). On each noisette lay a fine, grilled mushroom,
garnished with a rosette of Soubise purde, made by means of
a piping-bag fitted with a grooved pipe. Pour a little venison
sauce over the dish, and send a sauceboat of it separately.

N.B. — Roebuck noisettes and cutlets are still served with
purees of chestnuts or celery, with truffles, cepes, mushrooms,
&c.

The sauces best suited to them are Poivrade sauce and its
derivatives, such as Venison sauce, Grand-Veneur sauce,
Romaine sauce, &c., also Roberts sauce Escoffier.

1808— CIVET DE CHEVREUIL

For " Civet de Chevreuil " the shoulders, the neck, and the
breast are used, and these pieces are cut up and set to marinade
six hours beforehand with the aromatics and the same red wine
as that with which the civet will be moistened.

572 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

When about to prepare the civet, drain and dry these pieces,
and proceed exactly as for "Civet de Li^vre " (No. 1821),
except for the thickening by means of blood, which the diffi-
culty of obtaining the blood of the roebuck perforce precludes.

This civet, which should be classed among dishes for the
home, is usually served in the form of a stew ; for, inasmuch
as the final thickening with blood is lacking, it can only be
an imitation of the civet. When, therefore, hare's blood is
available, it should always be used in finishing this dish exactly
after the manner of No. 1821 — that is to say, the preparation
should be given the characteristic stamp of civet by means of
a final thickening with blood.

1809— BOAR AND YOUNG BOAR (SANQLIER ET

MARCASSIN)

When the wild boar is over two years of age, it is no more
fit to be served as food. Between one and two years it should
be used with caution, and the various roebuck recipes may
then be applied to it. But only the young boar less than twelve
months old should be prepared in decent kitchens.

The hams of a young boar, salted and smoked, supply a
very passable releve, which allows of varying the ordinary
menu. They are treated exactly like pork hams.

The saddle and the cushions may be prepared after the
recipes given for saddle of roebuck, and the same holds good
with the cutlets and the noisettes.

Finally, the saddle may be served cold, in a daube, when it
is prepared after No. 1802.

As the various parts of the young boar are covered with
fat, it is understood that they are not larded, nor do they
need it.

i8io— HARE AND LEVERET (LlBVRE ET LEVRAUT)

As a result of one of those freaks of taste, of which I have
already pointed out some few examples, hare is not nearly so
highly esteemed as it deserves in England; and the fact seems
all the more strange when one remembers that in many of her
counties excellent specimens of the species are to be found.

Whatever be the purpose for which it is required, always
select a young hare, five or six lbs. in weight. The age may
be ascertained as follows : — Grasp one ear close to its extremity
with both hands, and pull in opposite directions; if the ear
tear, the beast is young; if it resist the strain, the hare is
old, and should be set aside for soups and the preparation of
fumets and forcemeats.

GAME 573

1811— LIEVRE FARCI A LA PERIQOURDINE

Take care to collect all the blood when emptying the hare;
break the bones of the legs, that they may be easily trussed;
clear the legs and the fillets of all tendons, and lard them.
Chop up the liver, the lungs, the heart, and four fowls' livers,
together with five oz. of fat bacon.

Add to this mincemeat five oz. of soaked and pressed bread-
crumbs, the blood, two oz. of chopped onion, cooked in butter
and cold ; a pinch of chopped parsley, a piece of crushed garlic
the size of a pea, and three oz. of raw truffle parings. Mix
the whole up well ; fill the hare with this stuffing ; sew up the
skin of the belly ; truss the animal, and braise it in white wine
for about two and one-half hours, basting it often the while.
Glaze at the last moment. Serve the hare on a long dish.

Add two-thirds pint of half-glaze game sauce to the braising-
liquor; reduce; clear of grease; strain, and add three oz. of
chopped truffles to this sauce.

Pour a little sauce over the dish on which the hare has been
set, and serve what remains of the sauce separately.

1812— RABLE DE LIEVRE

The French term " rable " means the whole of the back of
the hare, from the root of the neck to the tail, with the ribs
cut very short.

Often, however, that piece which corresponds with the
saddle in butchers' meat alone is taken, i.e., the piece reaching
from the croup to the floating ribs. Whatever be the particular
cut, the piece should be well cleared of all tendons, and finely
larded before being set to marinade ; and this last operation may
even be dispensed with when the " r&ble " is derived from a
young hare.

Marinading would only become necessary if the piece had
to be kept some considerable time.

1813— RABLE DE LifeVRE A L'ALLEMANDE

Set the rdble well dried on the vegetables of the marinade,
which should be laid on the bottom of a long, narrow dish.
When it is nearly cooked, remove the vegetables, pour one-
quarter pint of cream into the dish, and complete the cooking
of the rdble, basting it the while with that cream.

Finish at the last minute with a few drops of lemon juice.

Dish the rdble, and surround it with the cream stock, strained
through a fine strainer.

574 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

1814— RABLE DE LIEVRE AU QENIfeVRE

Roast it, as above, on the vegetables of the marinade.

Swill the dish with a small glassful of gin and two or three
tablespoonfuls of marinade, and reduce to half. Add one-sixth
pint of cream, two tablespoonfuls of poivrade sauce, and four
powdered juniper berries.

Strain and serve this sauce separately at the same time as
the rdble.

1815— CUISSES DE LlfeVRE

Use the legs of young hares only ; those of old animals may
be used for the "civet" and forcemeat alone. After having
cleared them of tendons and larded them with very thin strips
of bacon, treat them like the rdble.

1816— FILET5 DE LEVRAUT A LA DAMPIERRE

Take five leverets' fillets; contise them with slices of truffle,
after the manner directed for " SuprSmes de Volaille k la
Chevaliere " (No. 1458); shape them like crescents, and set
them on a buttered dish.

Lard the minion fillets with a rosette consisting of strips
of salted tongue, and set them also on a buttered dish.

With what remains of the meat of the leveret, prepare a
mousseline forcemeat, and add thereto some truffle essence and
some chopped truffles.

Dish this forcemeat, shaping it like a truncated cone two
and one-half inches high, the radius of which should be the
length of a leveret's fillet.

Set this forcemeat to poach in the front of the oven.

Sprinkle the fillets and the minion fillets with a little brandy
and melted butter; cover them, and poach them likewise in
the front of the oven. This done, arrange them radially on
the cone of forcemeat, alternating the fillets and the minion
fillets. Place a fine, glazed truffle in the middle of the rosette,
and surround the base with mushrooms, separated by chestnuts
cooked in consomm^ and glazed, and small onions cooked in
butter.

Serve a poivrade sauce at the same time, combined with the
fillets' cooking-liquor.

1817— FILETS DE LEVRAUT A LA MORNAY
(Recipe of the Freres Proven^aux)

Trim two leverets' fillets, and cut them into collops, one
inch in diameter and one-third inch thick. Prepare (i) the

GAME 575

same number of bread-crumb croutons as there are coUops, and
make them of the same size as the latter, though half as thick;
(2) the same number of thick slices of truffle, cooked at the last
minute in a little Madeira.

Toss the collops of fillet quickly in clarified butter; colour
the croutons in butter at the sam2 time, and mix the latter with
the collops and the truffles in a saucepan.

Swill the sautdpan with the Madeira in which the truffles
have cooked; add a little succulent pale glaze; reduce suffi-
ciently; strain the sauce through a sieve; finish it liberally
with butter; add it to the sauted collops, and serve the latter
in a very hot timbale.

N.B. — This recipe was given by the Comte de Mornay him-
self to the proprietors of the famous Parisian restaurant, and
for a long while the dish was one of the specialities of a house
no longer extant.

1818— FILETS DE LEVRAUT A LA VENDOME

After having contised the leveret's fillets, roll them round a
buttered tin mould, and fasten them with a string, that they
may form rings.

Set to poach. Meanwhile, spread on a buttered tray a layer
one-half inch thick of game forcemeat; poach the latter; stamp
it out by means of an even cutter into roundels of the same
size as the rings, and set one of these on each of the force-
meat roundels, fixing it by means of a little raw forcemeat.

Cut the minion fillets into collops, and quickly toss them
in butter with an equal quantity of mushrooms and five oz. of
raw, sliced truffles.

Swill the saucepan with a little brandy and the poaching-
liquor of the fillet-rings ; add a little poivrade sauce ; finish this
sauce with butter, and plunge therein the collops of fillet, the
mushrooms, and the truffles.

Set the rings in a circle on a dish, and fill them with this
garnish. Serve separately a sauceboat of poivrade sauce and
a timbale of chestnut pur^e.

18 19— MOUSSES ET MOUSSELINES DE LIEVRE

Proceed exactly as for all other viousses and mousselines,
except, of course, in regard to the basic ingredient, which in
this case is the meat of a hare.

1820— SOUFFLE DE LifeVRE

With one lb. of the meat of a hare, prepare a light mous-
seline forcemeat; add thereto the whites of two eggs,

576 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

whisked to a stiff froth ; poach the motisseline in a souffle sauce-
pan.

Cut the hare's minion fillets into collops, and toss them in
butter at the last moment.

Cook the souffle in a moderate oven ; coat the top lightly
with half-glaze sauce flavoured with hare fumet, and surround
it with the minion-fillet collops, alternated with slices of
truffles.

The minion-fillet collops and the slices of truffles may be
added to the sauce, and this garnish is served separately in
another timbale.

182 1— CIVET DE LIEVRE

Skin and clean the hare, taking care to collect all the blood
in so doing. Put the liver aside, after having carefully freed
it from the gall-bladder, as also from those portions touching
the latter.

Cut up the hare, and put the pieces in a basin with a few
tablespoonfuls of brandy and an equal quantity of olive oil,
salt, pepper, and an onion cut into thin roundels. Cover and
leave to marinade for a few hours in the very red wine used
for the moistening. Fry one-half lb. of lean bacon, cut into
large dice, in butter, and drain it as soon as it is brown. In
the same butter brown two fair-sized, quartered onions; add
two tablespoonfuls of flour, and cook this roux gently until
it acquires a golden tinge. Put the pieces of hare into this
roux, after having well dried them, and stiffen them.

Moisten with the wine used for the marinade. Add a large
faggot, in which place a garlic clove ; cover, and leave to cook
gently on the side of the stove.

A few minutes before serving, thicken the civet with the
reserved blood, which should be gradually heated, and mix
therewith a few tablespoonfuls of sauce. Then transfer the
pieces of hare, one by one, to another saucepan with the fried
pieces of bacon, twenty small, glazed onions, and twenty cooked
mushrooms.

Strain the sauce over the whole through a strainer.

Dish in a warm timbale, and surround with heart-shaped
croutons fried in butter at the last moment.

Cold Preparations of Hare
1822— LIEVRE EN DAUBE

Take a fresh hare, and bone it from the back without empty-
ing it, that the skin of the belly may be untouched.

Detach the shoulders and the legs; do not touch the head;

GAME 577

season with salt and pepper; sprinkle with a few drops of
brandy, and leave to marinade. With the hare's liver, some
fat bacon, and some truffle parings, prepare a gratin force-
meat. Prepare another forcemeat with the meat of the shoulders
and the legs, an equal weight of fat bacon, one egg, a pinch of
wild thyme, salt, pepper, spices, and the brandy of the marin-
ade. Rub this forcemeat through a sieve, and add to it the
gratin forcemeat, one-half lb. of fat bacon, and five oz. of
truffles cut into dice.

Fill the boned hare with this preparation ; sew it up, and
tie the head to the back in such wise as to give the piece the
appearance of the animal at rest. ,

Wrap it in slices of bacon, and set it in a terrine lined with
the latter; sprinkle with a glassful of brandy, and place in
the oven for thirty minutes with lid off.

Then pour into the terrine a fumet prepared with red wine
from the hare's bones ; cover, and then cook in the oven gently
for three hours.

Leave to half-cool; drain away the cooking-liquor, and
carefully remove the slices of bacon. Strain the cooking-liquor
through muslin ; return it to the terrine, and fill up the latter
with savoury jelly.

Keep in the cool for two hours before serving.

1833— PAIN DE LifeVRE

This " Pain " is prepared according to No. 1689, and it may
be served in " Belle-vue," after the manner described for cold
pieces prepared in this way.

1834— PATlg DE LifeVRE

Clear the fillets, the minion fillets, and the legs of all
tendons ; moderately lard them ; season them ; set them in a
dish with an equal quantity of truffles and fat bacon strips;
sprinkle with some brandy, and leave to marinade for one
hour. With what remains of the meat, some fillets of veal
and pork, in the proportion of six oz. per lb. of hare; fresh,
fat bacon in the proportion of one and one-half lbs. per lb. of
hare; and spiced salt, prepare a forcemeat, and finish it with
one egg and three tablespoonfuls of brandy per lb. of force-
meat.

Rub through tammy, and add a portion of the hare's blood.

Line a round or oval buttered mould with raised-pie paste,
and completely cover the paste with slices of bacon. Then coat
inside with forcemeat, and fill up the mould with alternate layers
of forcemeat, hares' fillets, truffle, and fat bacon strips.

p p

578 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

Finish with a layer of forcemeat; cover with a slice of
bacon ; sprinkle a pinch of powdered thyme and bay over the
latter; close the pie with a layer of paste, which should be
sealed down round the moistened edges; pinch the crest inside
and out, and finish off the pie by means of imitation leaves
made from paste.

Gild ; bake in a moderate oven, and, when the pie is almost
cold, pour some jelly flavoured with hare fumet into it.

1825— TERRINE DE LIEVRE

A " Terrine " or Patty is only a pie without a crust, and it
allows of the same forcemeat and of the same garnish of bacon
strips as the latter. The terrine should first be lined with
slices of bacon, whereupon it is garnished like the pie with
alternate layers of forcemeat, bacon strips, hares' fillets, and
truffles.

Cover with a slice of bacon ; sprinkle the centre of the
latter with a little powdered thyme and bay, and a little spice.
Put the lid on the terrine, place it in a saucepan containing a
little water, and set it to cook in the oven.

The time allowed for cooking is naturally subject to the
size of the terrine. It is known to be quite cooked when the
grease which rises to the surface is quite clear.

As long as this grease is turbid, raw juices are still issuing
from the forcemeat and the garnish inside. Another method
of telling is by the insertion of a needle. If the latter with-
draws evenly heated throughout its length, the terrine is cooked.

If the patty is to be served immediately, add some aspic to
it when it is just tepid, and set it to cool under slight pressure.
When quite cold, clear it of grease; trim its surface, and cut
it up in the utensil.

If it is to be served whole and presented, set it to cool under
greater pressure ; turn it out, and trim it all round. This done,
cause a layer of jelly to set on the bottom of the terrine ; return
the trimmed patty to the latter, and surround it with melted
aspic jelly.

When about to serve, turn it out after the manner of an
aspic; set it on a long dish, and border the latter with jelly
croutons.

If it have to be kept some time, proceed as above, but use
lard instead of aspic, and keep it well covered and in the cool.

1826— YOUNQ WILD RABBIT (LAPEREAUX)

Use the wild rather than the tame young rabbit, and test
its age after the manner described in regard to the hare, and

GAME 579

also by means of a little lentil-shaped bone, which is to be
found in the region of the patella.

As the wild rabbit ages, this bone shrinks and finally com-
bines with the other bones of the articulation.

When the wild rabbit is old, it is tough, and can only be
used for stock or forcemeats.

All the recipes given for " Poulet Saut^," and those given
for hare, may be applied to wild rabbit ; the reader is, therefore,
begged to refer to these.

1827— FEATHERED GAME

Feathered game comprises all esculent birds that live in
freedom.

The number of species involved, therefore, is considerable,
but from the culinary standpoint they may be grouped into
ten principal classes, which are : —

1. The various pheasants, grey and red partridges, the Te-
tras Californias.

2. The hazel-hen, grouse, prairie fowls, ganga, sand-grouse,

3. The various wild ducks and teals.

4. The woodcocks and snipes.

5. The various plovers, lapwings, sandpipers, water-rails,
water-hens.

6. The quails, land-rails, Virginia quails.

7. The various thrushes, Corsican blackbirds.

8. The various larks.

9. The warblers.

10. The ortolans.

The birds of Classes i and 4 are better high — that is to
say, they should be hung for a few days, before being plucked,
in a moderate draught, that they may begin to decompose, and
that the particular flavour of their flesh may be accentuated, a
process which increases their culinary value. Whatever
opinion may be held in regard to the gaminess of these birds,
one thing is quite certain — namely, that the meat of a fresh
pheasant and that of a high one are two totally different things.
When fresh, the meat is flavourless, whereas when it is reason-
ably high it is tender, full of taste, and of an incomparable
flavour.

Formerly, it was the custom to lard the birds of Class i,
especially when they were to be roasted. But this practice
should be resolutely discarded, for, if the bird be young, it
can only impair the latter's flavour, and, if it be old, it cannot
possibly restore those qualities to it which it has already lost.

P P 2

58o GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

Besides, an old bird should never be served; it ought only
to be used in the preparation of game stock or forcemeats.

The birds belonging to the remaining classes are prepared
fresh ; or, if it be thought necessary to let them hang for a
few days, at least they should not be allowed to get high, more
particularly the aquatic ones, because gaminess is, if anything,
deleterious to the flavour of their flesh.

1828— PHEASANT (FAISAN)

When this bird is young, its legs are grey and the ventral
end of the sternum is tender and flexible. But with pheasants,
as with partridges, an infallible sign of youth may be discovered
at the extremity of the last large feather in the wing. If this
feather be pointed, the bird is young ; if it be round, the reverse
is the case.

1829— FAISAN A LA MODE D' ALCANTARA

This recipe comes from the famous Alcantara convent. His-
tory tells us that at the beginning of the Portuguese campaign
in 1807 the convent's library was pillaged by Junot's soldiers,
and its precious manuscripts were used in the making of cart-
ridges.

Now it happened that an officer of the commissariat who
was witnessing the event found, among a collection of recipes
selected by the monks, the particular one now under our notice,
which was applied only to partridges.

It struck him as interesting, and after trying it when he re-
turned to France in the following year, he surrendered it to
the Duchess of Abrant^s, who noted it in her memoirs.

It represents, perhaps, the only good thing the French
derived from that unfortunate campaign, and it would tend to
prove that foie gras and truffles, which had been known for
so long in Languedoc and Gascony, were also known in Estre-
madura, where, even at the present day, tolerably good truffles
are to be found.

The procedure is as follows : —

Empty the pheasant from the front ; bone its breast, and stuff
it with fine ducks' foies gras, mixed with quartered truffles,
cooked in port wine.

Marinade the pheasant for three days in port wine, taking
care that it be well covered therewith. This done, cook it " en
casserole " (the original recipe says on the spit, but the sauce-
pan is more suitable). Reduce the port wine of the marinade;
add to it a dozen medium-sized truffles; set the pheasant on
these truffles, and heat for a further ten minutes.

GAME 581

N.B. — This last part of the recipe may be advantageously
replaced by the "k la Souvaroff " treatment — that is to say,
having placed the pheasant and the truffles in a terrine, sprinkle
them with the reduced port combined with slightly buttered
game glaze; then hermetically seal down the lid of the terrine,
and complete the cooking in the oven.

1830— FAISAN A L'ANQOUMOISE

Stuff the pheasant with a preparation consisting of two-
thirds lb. of very fresh pork fat, rubbed through a sieve; four
oz. of raw, peeled, and quartered truffles, and four oz. of fine
chestnuts, cooked in consomm^.

This preparation, which should be seasoned as for the
ordinary truffling (No. 1961), ought to be quite cold when
inserted into the pheasant.

Wrap the bird in slices of bacon; roast it gently for three-
quarters of an hour, and take care to remove the slices of bacon
seven or eight minutes before the cooking is completed, that
the outside of the piece may be coloured.

Set on a long dish, and serve a P^rigueux sauce at the same
time.

183 1— FAISAN A LA BOHEMIENNE

Season a small foie gras with salt and paprika; stud it with
raw quartered truffles, and poach it in Madeira for twenty
minutes.

When it is cold, insert it into the pheasant, which should
be high. Truss the bird, and cook it in butter in a sauce-
pan or a cocotte for forty-five minutes. When about to serve,
remove some of the butter used in cooking; sprinkle the
pheasant with a glassful of burnt brandy, and add a few table-
spoonfuls of reduced game gravy to the cooking-liquor.

Serve the pheasant in its cooking utensil.

1832— FAISAN EN CASSEROLE

Truss the pheasant as for an entree, and poele it in butter
only. This done, swill the saucepan with a few drops of brandy
and a tablespoonful of game gravy.

Cover the utensil, and serve the dish burning hot.

1833— FAISAN EN COCOTTE

Proceed exactly as for pheasant " en casserole," and, when
the cooking is two-thirds done, surround it with a garnish of
small onions cooked in butter; small, cooked mushroom-heads
and olive-shaped truffles, the latter taking the place of the

582 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY^

potatoes, which are one of the garnishing ingredients of fowls
" en cocotte."

1834— FAISAN EN CHARTREUSE

Parboil a fine, round-headed, quartered cabbage, and braise
it as directed under No. 2100, adding thereto an old, oven-
browned pheasant.

The chartreuse may be made with the pheasant kept whole
or cut into pieces, but in any case, roasted or poeled, it should
be very tender and only just cooked. The old pheasant put in
with the cabbage only serves in imparting its flavour to the
latter, but it must not and cannot be used for the chartreuse.

If the chartreuse be made with a cut-up pheasant, proceed
as in the case of No. 1778. If whole, line an oval mould
cfeartrew^e-fashion ; coat the inside with a portion of the braised
cabbage, which should be slightly pressed; set the pheasant,
breast undermost, in the mould; cover it with what remains
of the cabbage, and then turn it out on a dish.

Send a sauceboat of excellent half-glaze, flavoured with
pheasant fumet, separately.

1835— FAI5AN A LA CHOOCROUTE

Prepare the sauerkraut after No, 2077, and bear in mind
that when it is specially prepared to accompany a pheasant, it
is considerably improved by being braised with foie-gras fat.

Poele a very tender pheasant, and only just cook it. Lay
the well-drained sauerkraut on a long dish; set the pheasant
upon it, and surround it with a border consisting of rectangles
of bacon, cooked in the sauerkraut.

Serve separately the poeling-liqnor combined with a little
game fumet, strained, and kept somewhat greasy.

1836— FAISAN A LA CREME

Cook the pheasant in butter, in a saucepan, with a medium-
sized, quartered onion. When the cooking is three-parts done,
sprinkle the bird with one-quarter pint of cream (sour if pos-
sible), or with ordinary cream, acidulated by means of a few
drops of lemon juice.

Finish the cooking, basting the piece the while with cream
and serve in the saucepan.

1837— FAISAN DEMIDOFF

Proceed exactly as directed under " Poulet k la Demidoff "
(No. 1464).

GAME 583

1838— FAISAN A LA QEORQIENNE

Truss the pheasant as for an entree, and put it into a sauce-
pan with thirty fresh, halved, and well-peeled walnuts; the juice
of two lbs. of grapes and of four oranges, pressed on a sieve;
a wineglassful of Malmsey wine; a glassful of strong, green
tea ; one and one-half oz. of butter, and the necessary seasoning.

Poach the pheasant in this preparation for about thirty
minutes, and colour it when it is almost cooked.

When about to serve, dish it and surround it with fresh
walnuts.

Strain the cooking-liquor through a napkin ; add thereto
one-third pint of game Espagnole, and reduce to half.

Slightly coat the pheasant and its garnish with the sauce,
and serve what remains of the latter separately,

1839— FAI5AN GRILLE DIABLE

For this preparation only young pheasants are used;
although, provided they be tender, adult pheasants will answer
the purpose. The procedure is precisely the same as that de-
scribed under " Poulet Grille " (No. 1636).

1840— FAISAN KOTSCHOUBEY

Cook the pheasant " en casserole," and add to it, when it
is almost done, two oz. of fine, raw truffle slices, and a little
excellent game glaze, clear and well buttered.

Serve the following garnish separately : — Fry in butter four
oz. of blanched, fresh breast of bacon, cut into dice. When
the pieces are properly frizzled, add to them one lb. of freshly-
cooked, well-drained, uncooled, and roughly-chopped Brussels
sprouts. Add two oz. of fresh butter, a little pepper and grated
nutmeg, and stew gently for one-half hour, that the garnish may
just be ready in time for dishing.

1841— FAISAN A LA NORMANDE

Colour the pheasant in butter.

Meanwhile quarter, peel, mince, and slightly toss in butter
six medium-sized apples.

Garnish the bottom of a terrine with a layer of these apples ;
set the browned pheasant thereon; surround it with what
remains of the apples; sprinkle it with a few tablespoonfuls
of fresh cream ; cover the terrine, and cook in the oven for from
twenty to twenty-eight minutes.

Serve the preparation in the terrine.

584 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

184a— FAISAN A LA PERIQUEUX

Stuff the pheasant with truffles, proceeding as for ordinary
truffling (No. 1936). Poele it in Madeira; dish, and surround
it with a border of quenelles consisting of truffled game force-
meat, moulded by means of a coffeespoon, and poached at the
last moment.

Serve separately a P^rigueux sauce combined with the
reduced poeling-liquor, cleared of all grease.

1843— FAISAN A LA R^QENCE

Poele the pheasant, and dish it on a low crouton, carved
from a sandwich-loaf and fried in butter.

Surround it with small, decorated, round game quenelles;
large, grooved, cooked mushrooms; and cocks' kidneys; all
three arranged alternately.

Serve separately a Salmis sauce, flavoured with truffle
essence, and combined with the strained and reduced poeling-
liquor, cleared of all grease.

1844— FAI5AN A LA 5AINTE=ALLIANCE

Bone two woodcocks, and put their livers and intestines
aside.

Chop up their meat, together with a quarter of its weight
of poached and cooled beef-marrow, and as much fresh, fat
bacon; salt, pepper, and herbs. Add to this hash six oz. of
raw, peeled, and quartered truffles, slightly cooked in butter.

Stuff the pheasant with this preparation; truss it; wrap it
in slices of bacon, and keep it in the cool for twenty-four hours,
that the aroma of the truffles may be concentrated.

Roast the pheasant on the spit, or, if in the oven, set it on
a somewhat high stand in a baking-pan. Cut a large crouton
from a sandwich-loaf, and fry it in clarified butter.

Pound the woodcocks' livers and intestines with an equal
weight of grated fresh fat bacon, the well-washed fillets of
an anchovy, one oz. of butter, and one-half oz. of raw truffle.
When this forcemeat is very smooth and all its ingredients
thoroughly mixed, spread it over the fried croutons.

When the pheasant is two-thirds cooked, set this coated
crouton under the bird in such wise as to allow the juices escap-
ing from the latter to drop upon the crouton. Complete the
cooking, and dish the pheasant on the crouton. Surround with
slices of bitter orange, and send the gravy separately.

When serving, accompany each piece of pheasant with a
slice of orange and a small slice of the coated crouton.

GAME 585

1845— FAI5AN SOUVAROPF

Cook six fair-sized truffles for five minutes in a glassful of
Madeira and an equal quantity of light meat glaze. Withdraw
the truffles and put them in the terrine in which the pheasant
will complete its cooking.

Cut one-half lb. of foie gras into large dice; stiffen these
in the truffles' cooking-liquor, and stuff the pheasant therewith.
Truss the latter; wrap it in slices of bacon, and two-thirds
poele it.

This done, put it into the terrine containing the truffles ; add
the poeling-liquoT, a small glassful of Madeira, and the same
quantity of game gravy; hermetically close the terrine, and
continue cooking for about a quarter of an hour.

Serve the preparation as it stands.

1846— SUPREMES, COTELETTES ET FILETS DE FAISAN

Pheasant Suprfemes, Cutlets and Fillets, allow of the same
garnishes as those of fowl. But, whereas in the case of the
latter, they are raised raw, and then poached, my advice in
regard to pheasant is, that it should be previously roasted or
poeled (keeping it just underdone) and that the supremes be
only raised at the last moment.

By this means, a much better result is obtained than by
the poaching of raw fillets; which, once cooked, are gene-
rally dry if they have to wait but a few seconds.

I also advise, when the garnish consists only of foie-gras
collops and truffles (as in the case of the Rossini garnish), the
sending separately of a small timbale of noodles with cream.

1847— SALMIS DE FAISAN

Salmis is perhaps the most delicate and most perfect of
the game preparations bequeathed to us by old-fashioned
cookery. If it be less highly esteemed nowadays, it is owing
to the fact that this recipe has been literally spoiled by the
haphazard fashion in which it has been applied right and left
to game already cooked, and cooked again for the purpose.

But the Salmis given above may always be included in any
menu, however sumptuous. It is applied more particularly to
game of the ist and 2nd classes, which should be somewhat
high when treated.

The recipe I give may be applied to all the birds in the two
classes referred to.

Roast the pheasant, keeping it moderately underdone.
Quickly cut it into eight pieces, thus : two legs, two wings
(separated from the pinions), and the breast cut into four length-

586 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

wise. Skin the pieces; trim them neatly, and keep them at a
temperate heat in a covered vegetable-pan, with a few drops of
burnt brandy and a little clear melted meat glaze.

Pound the carcass and the trimmings, and add to them half
a bottleful of red wine (almost entirely reduced), three chopped
shallots and a few mignonette pepper. Add one-quarter pint
of good game Espagnole sauce; cook for ten minutes; rub
through a sieve, pressing well the while, and then strain through
a strainer.

Reduce this sauce to about one-third, and despumate it;
strain it once more through a close strainer ; add a small quan-
tity of butter, and pour it over the pieces of pheasant, to which
add a fine, sliced truffle and six grooved mushroom-heads.

I advise the discarding of the old method of dishing upon
a cushion of bread fried in butter, as also of the triangular
croutons fried in butter and coated with gratin forcemeat, which
usually accompanied the Salmis.

A speedy preparation and a simple method of dishing, which
facilitate the service and allow of the Salmis being eaten hot,
are the only necessary conditions. Moreover, the goodness of
the preparation is such as to be independent of a fantastic
method of dishing.

1848— SAUTE DE FAISAN

Unless it be prepared with the greatest care, sauted pheasant
is always dry. I therefore do not recommend it; but, should
it be necessary to make a dish of it, care should be observed in
selecting a young, plump bird. It should be cut up like a
fowl, cooked in butter on a moderate fire and kept somewhat
underdone.

Dish it after the manner of a " poulet saut^ " and cover it.
Swill the saut^pan and prepare a sauce after the recipe in
common use.

This sauce must always be short, and it should be poured
over the pheasant just before serving it.

1849— PATE CHAUD DE FAISAN

The preparation of hot, raised pheasant pies is the same as
usual ; the ingredients alone changing. The reader will, there-
fore, kindly refer to " Pat6 chaud de Canard" (No. 1732), and
duly note the following modifications : —

(i) Use a gratin forcemeat (No. 202) prepared from game
livers and meat.

(2) Roast the pheasant, keeping it underdone, and mix the
pieces of cooked mushroom with the sliced truffles.

GAME 587

(3) Accompany the pie by a Salmis sauce, prepared from
the pheasant's carcass and remains.

1850— MOUSSES ET MOUSSELINES DE FAISAN

As already stated in various parts of this work, the con-
stituents and their quantities are the same for mousses and
mousselines, and but for the basic ingredient, which is pheasant
in this case, the procedure does not differ from that already
described.

The base of the sauces served with these mousses and mous-
selines is a fumet made from the carcasses and remains.

1851— S0UFFL6 DE FAISAN

Prepare a very light, mousseline forcemeat of pheasant.

Set in a buttered souffle saucepan, and cook in a moderate
oven.

Send a fine, half-glaze sauce, flavoured with game essence,
at the same time.

Cold Pheasant

1852— FAISAN A LA BOHI6MIENNE

Proceed as for " Faisan k la Boh^mienne " hot (No. 181 1).
Cook it in an earthenware terrine, and add thereto, at the same
time as the prescribed brandy, enough succulent, savoury jelly
to fill up the terrine.

Leave to cool for a day or two, and, when about to serve,
remove the grease that has settled on the surface, by means of
a spoon. Remove the last vestiges of grease by repeated
scaldings ; carefully wipe the terrine, and serve it incrusted in a

block of ice.

1853— CHAUD-FROID DE FAISAN

Proceed exactly as for " Chaud-froid de Volaille " (No. 1669),
and use a brown chaud-froid sauce, flavoured with pheasant
fumet.

In regard to the decoration, dishing, &c., follow the recipe
already referred to.

1854— CHAUD-FROID DE FAISAN A LA BULOZ

Poele a pheasant, keeping it underdone; raise its supremes,
and cut these into thin collops.

With a fumet prepared from the carcass and the poeling-
liquor, prepare a brown chaud-froid sauce. Coat the collops
with this sauce, and also coat ten cooked and grooved mush-
rooms with a white chaud-froid sauce.

588 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

Clothe a dome-mould with clear aspic jelly, and deck it with
truffles.

Set the coUops of pheasant and the chaud-froid-coated truf-
fles inside, alternating the two in so doing; fill up the mould
\yith the same jelly, and let it set on ice. When about to serve,
turn out after the manner of an aspic, on a low cushion of
rice or semolina, lying on a round dish.

Border with neatly-cut croiitons of very clear aspic.

1855— FAISAN A LA CROIX DE BERNY

Roast the pheasant and keep it underdone. When it is
quite cold, raise its fillets and leave the legs and the wings
attached to the carcass.

By means of scissors, completely bone the carcass ; garnish
its inside with a truffled foie-gras Parfait, and cover it with a
thin coat of foie-gras Mousse.

Replace the fillets upon this Mousse, after having sliced
them, and fill any gaps that may exist between the slices with
some of the same Mousse : thus reconstructing the bird.

Let the Mousse set thoroughly, and glaze with aspic jelly.

Meanwhile, coat eight boned, stuffed, poached and cold larks
with brown chaud-froid sauce. Decorate them with pieces of
truffle and salted tongue, and glaze them with aspic jelly

Dish the pheasant on a low cushion; surround it with the
larks, and garnish the gaps between the latter with chopped
and very clear aspic.

1856— FAISAN EN DAUBE

Proceed as for " Terrine de Poularde a la gelde " (No. 1701),
making due allowance, in the cooking, for the difference
between the sizes of the two birds.

1857— c6TELETTES DE FAISAN

Proceed as for " Cotelettes froides de Volaille."

1858— GALANTINE DE FAISAN

See "Galantine de Volaille" (No. 1708).

1859— MOUSSE DE FAISAN

Prepare the Mousse according to the usual procedure, and
mould it after the manner of " Mousse de Volaille" (No. 1691).

i860— PAIN DE FAISAN EN BELLE-VUE

The procedure follows that of No. 1709, but for the difference
in the basic ingredient, which in this case is pheasant.

GAME 589

1861— SUPRfeMES DE FAISAN CHATELAINE

Raise the supremes and prepare them exactly like the
supremes of fowl in " Chaud-froid F^lix Faure " (No. 1691).
Poach fhem; cool them, and cut them into medallions as
explained.

Cover half of these medallions with chicken Mousse, and the
other half with pheasant Mousse. Keep on ice for some time
that the Mousse may set. This done, coat the first lot with
brown chaud-froid sauce and the second lot with white chaud-
froid sauce. Deck each medallion with small pieces of truffle.
Set them in a deep, square dish (alternating the two colours),
and cover with very clear, succulent aspic jelly. Leave to set
and serve on a block of ice.

1862— SUPREMES DE FAISAN GASTRONOME

Poele the pheasant in Madeira and let it cool. Raise the
fillets ; cut them into thin, regular slices ; coat them with brown
chaud-froid sauce, and decorate according to fancy. With the
trimmings and the meat of the legs, prepare a pheasant Mousse
after the manner described under No. 171 1, and mould it in a
Parfait mould which should have the depth of the chaud-froid-
coated slices.

When this Mousse has set, turn it out on a dish and place
the slices all round, standing them upright and letting them
lean one against the other.

Surround with a crown of fine, fair-sized, peeled trufHes,
cooked in Champagne, and set one of them on the top of the
Mousse, fixing it there by means of a hatelet.

Border the dish with fine croutons of aspic.

1863— TERRINE DE FAISAN

Prepare it after the manner of the " Terrine de Li^vre " (No.
1825), and take care to make due allowance, in the cooking, for
the difference, in the matter of tenderness, between the two
meats. But the explanations already given on this subject
ought to suffice for ascertaining whether or not the patty have
cooked sufficiently.

PARTRIDGE (PERDRIX ET PERDREAUX)

Three kinds of partridges are used in Cookery:^ — the Grey
Partridge, which is commonest in flat country, and which is
also the most highly esteemed ; the Red Partridge, which is to be
found in hilly and wooded country; and the Bartavelle (perdix
vertevella), which is a somewhat larger species than the two
former. To ihese three kinds may be added the American

590 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

Colin (Ortix Virginianus), an excellent bird sometimes seen in
English markets.

All the recipes given for pheasants may be applied to par-
tridge, and below, I shall only give those which are proper to
the latter.

1864— PERDREAU A LA BOURGUIQNONNE

Truss the partridge as for an entree ; three-parts poele it, and
place it in a terrine with six small glazed onions and as many
small, cooked mushroom heads. Swill the saucepan with a
glassful of red wine; reduce it two-thirds, and add a table-
spoonful of game half-glaze. Strain; clear of grease; pour this
sauce over the partridge, and complete the latter's cooking for
seven or eight minutes.

1865— PERDREAU EN DEMNDEUIL

Bone the breast and fill the partridge with truffled partridge
forcemeat, prepared with panada or butter. Between the skin
and the fillets, slip a few slices of very black truffle; truss as
for an entree ; wrap the piece in muslin, and poach it for thirty
minutes in a game jumet.

When about to serve, remove the muslin ; take the string
off, and dish the partridge. Reduce the fumet in which the
partridge has poached ; strain it ; add thereto a liqueur-glassful
of burnt liqueur-brandy, and send this reduced fumet sepa-
rately.

1866— PERDREAU EN ESTOUFFADE

Brown the partridge in the oven and set in a terrine just
large enough to hold it, with a tablespoonful of Matignon (No.
227) and one crushed juniper berry, on top and beneath.

Add one-half oz. of butter, a liqueur-glassful of burnt
brandy, and twice that amount of game fumet. Close the
terrine ; seal down the lid with a strip of paste ; bake in a hot
oven for twenty-five minutes and serve the dish as it stands.

1867— PERDREAU A LA LAUTREC

Select a young partridge; open its back; slightly flatten it
with a butcher's beater ; pierce it through with a skewer ; season
it with salt, pepper and melted butter, and gently grill.

At the same time grill six small mushroom-heads.

Dish the partridge ; on either side of it set the mushrooms,
each of which should be garnished with a coffeespoonful of
Maitre-d'hotel butter; surround the mushrooms with a thread of
melted meat glaze and sprinkle the partridge with a few drops
of lemon juice.

GAME 591

1868— PERDREAU LADY CLIFFORD

Cook the partridge in butter in a saucepan. When it is
three-parts done, surround it with two oz. of fine slices of
raw truffle; add a liqueur-glassful of burnt brandy and one
tablespoonful of clear melted meat glaze.

Serve a Soubise sauce at the same time and separately.

1869— PERDREAU AUX CHOUX

Prepare a garnish of braised cabbages as explained under No.
2100, and add thereto an old partridge, browned in the oven
or on the spit. Meanwhile, roast or poele a very tender young
partridge and keep it underdone.

Dish the cabbages, which should be well drained; set the
young partridge upon them, and surround with small rectangles
of very lean bacon, cooked with the cabbages, and a thread of
half-glaze sauce, flavoured with game fumet.

N.B. — This dish may be given a more decorative appearance
by means of a sort of Chartreuse, which is prepared as fol-
lows : — Line a large bowl or a buttered, round-bottomed tim-
bale with roundels of sausages ; roundels of carrots arranged in
superposed rows, separated by a line of French beans or peas;
and small rectangles of bacon, laid side by side.

Line the inside of the timbale with a thick layer of cab-
bages, and put the young partridge, breast undermost, in the
middle (the partridge may also be carved up). Cover the cab-
bages and press the latter with a fork ; turn the timbale out on a
dish and tilt the latter that all the grease may fall before with-
drawing the timbale, which answers the purpose of a mould.

Surround with a thread of half-glaze sauce, flavoured with
game fumet,

1870— CR^PINETTES DE PERDREAUX

After substituting the meat of a young partridge, cleared of
all tendons, for the veal sweetbreads, and fresh bacon for calf's
udder, proceed exactly as directed (as regards quantities and
other particulars) under " Cr6pinettes de ris de Veau " (No.
1222), taking care to add three oz. of chopped truffles per lb.
of the forcemeat.

Divide up the forcemeat into portions one and one-half oz.
to two oz. in weight; wrap them in pig's caul; roll them first
in melted butter and then in bread-crumbs, and grill them
gently.

The usual accompaniment to these cr^pinettes is a light
chestnut or lentil pur^e.

592 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

1871— EPIQRAMMES DE PERDREAU

Raise the young partridge's fillets, leaving the wing-bone
attached to the carcass, and put them aside. From the minion
fillets and the meat of the legs, prepare a mousseline forcemeat ;
mould the latter in very small buttered cutlet moulds, and set to
poach.

Roll the fillets in melted butter and bread-crumbs, and grill
them gently. Dip the cutlets in beaten egg; roll them in finely-
chopped truffles; press upon the latter with the flat of a knife,
that they may combine with the egg; adjust the shape of the
cutlets, and toss them in butter.

Dish in the form of a circle, alternating the fillets and the
cutlets; pour in their midst a cullis prepared from the par-
tridge's carcasses, and serve a chestnut pur^e separately.

1872— TIMBALE DE PERDREAU DIANE

Line a liberally-buttered, shallow mould with crescents of
truffle arranged in superposed rows, and then completely cover
the bottom and sides of the mould with a layer, two-thirds in.
thick, of raw partridge forcemeat.

Place the mould in the front of the oven that the forcemeat
may be poached ; and then spread another layer of gratin force-
meat of game.

Fill the utensil with a garnish of small quenelles consisting
of truffled partridge forcemeat, mushrooms and slices of truf-
fles, cohered with a reduced Madeira sauce. Cover the garnish
with a small coat of forcemeat, and poach in the bain-marie
for from thirty to thirty-five minutes.

When about to serve, turn out on a dish, and deck the tim-
bale with a crown of partridges' supremes, raised from birds
fresh from the spit or the oven. Surround the base of the
timbale with a thread of Diane sauce, and send a sauceboat of
the latter separately.
1873— PERDREAUX FROIDS

The various recipes given for cold pheasant also suit cold
partridge; it is only necessary therefore to replace the word
"pheasant" by "partridge" in the formulje referred to.
1874— WOODCOCKS AND SNIPES (B^CASSE
ET BECASSINES)

If grouse, which can only be thoroughly appreciated in
its native country, were extinct, woodcocks would be the leading
feathered game. But the latter have this advantage over the
former, namely : that their fumet is not so fugitive, and that
they may be kept much longer. Woodcock does not yield its
full quality unless it be moderately high.

GAME 593

1875— BECASSE DE CAR^ME

Sprinkle the woodcock with a few drops of oil, and roast
it, keeping it underdone. As soon as it is cooked, divide it
into two lengthwise, and cut each half of the breast into two
collops. Mix half a coffeespoonful of French mustard in a
small vegetable-pan, with a few drops of lemon juice. Roll the
pieces of woodcock in this mustard, and keep them hot.

Chop up the carcass and the intestines; sprinkle with a
glassful of burnt liqueur brandy; reduce; add a tablespoonful
of game fumet, and cook for five minutes.

Strain through a strainer, pressing on the pieces of wood-
cock in so doing, and rock the saucepan, that the pieces may
be coated with the cullis. Dish in a hot timbale, and, upon
the pieces, set the woodcock's head.

N.B. — Becasse a la fine Champagne is prepared in the same
way, but without mustard. Cut it into six pieces : wings, legs
and two halves of the breast, and put these pieces into a round
cocotte. Swill the saucepan with burnt liqueur brandy ; add the
chopped intestines, mixed with the juices of the pressed carcass ;
add a tablespoonful of fumet, a little lemon juice, and a little
cayenne, and pour this cullis (heated but not boiled) over the
pieces.

Becasse a la Riche is prepared in the same way, but : — (i)
the pieces are dished on a crouton of fried bread, coated with
gratin forcemeat of game; (2) the sauce is thickened with a
little foie-gras puree and one oz. of butter, and then strained
over the pieces through a coarse strainer, during which process
the operator should press with a spoon or a whisk.

1876— BECASSE A LA FAVART

Proceed as for " Caneton rouennais Souffle " (No. 1764),
and remember to add the woodcock's intestines to the force-
meat.

When the carcass is garnished, set the sliced sufremes on
the forcemeat, with a row of sliced truffles in the middle. The
forcemeat should poach for about twenty minutes.

Serve at the same time a half-glaze sauce, flavoured with
woodcock fumet.

1877— SALMIS DE BECASSE

Under the article " Pheasant," I gave the generic recipe for
Salmis, which may be applied to all feathered game. In regard
to the Woodcock Salmis, the operator should remember to add
the bird's intestines to the sauce, and to keep the meat rather
under- than overdone.

Q Q

594 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

1878— b6casse souvaroff

Proceed exactly as for " Faisan k la Souvaroff " (No. 1845),
after making due allowance for the size of the bird in regard
to the quantity of truffles and foie gras.

1879— MOUSSES ET MOUSSELINES DE b6cASSE

See No. 1850.
1880— TIMBALE DE B^CASSE METTERNICH

Prepare a somewhat shallow, decorated timbale crust.

Roast the woodcocks and keep them underdone.

Raise the supremes and put them in the timbale, separating
them by collops of fresh foie gras, sauted at the last moment.

Pound the remains of the woodcocks, including their car-
casses; thin the pur^e with truffle essence; rub it through a
sieve, pressing heavily the while, and then rub it through
tammy.

Heat the cullis thus obtained, without letting it boil ; finish
it with a little lemon juice, liqueur-brandy and butter, and pour
it into the timbale over the pieces of woodcock and the foie gras
collops.

Dish the timbale on a folded napkin, lying on a round dish.

1881— TIMBALE DE BECASSE NESSELRODE

Poele the woodcocks and keep them underdone.

As soon as they are cooked, raise their fillets and put these
aside.

Bone the remains, and pound the meat thus obtained, to-
gether with a quarter of its weight of raw foie gras.

Rub through a sieve, and add an equal weight of game
forcemeat, prepared with panada and butter. Add the chopped
carcasses and a glassful of liqueur brandy to the poeling-liquor ;
cook for a few minutes; strain, and in this stock poach five oz.
of olive-shaped truffles (for an ordinary timbale).

Line a buttered Charlotte-mould with short paste; cover its
bottom and sides with the prepared forcemeat, and against this
forcemeat set the woodcock's supremes, cut into collops.
Garnish the centre with the truffles, and cover these with a few
tablespoonfuls of Espagnole, reduced with some of the fumet.
Close the timbale with a layer of paste, as explained in the
various preceding timbale recipes, and bake in a good, moderate
oven for about forty-five minutes.

When about to serve, turn out the timbale on a dish ; pour
into the former some half-glaze sauce combined with what
remains of the fumet, and send a sauceboat of the same sauce
separately.

GAME 595

N.B.— This "Timbale Nesselrode " may be prepared after
the same recipe, from Pheasant, Partridge, Woodcock or Hazel-
Hen, but the name of the selected bird should, of course, appear
on the menu.

1882— B^CASSES ET BfiCASSINES FROIDES

All the recipes given for cold pheasant and partridge may be

applied to woodcocks and snipes.

1883— QUAILS

Quails should always be chosen plump, and their fat should
be white and very firm. Besides the spit, which should always
be used in g^reference to the oven for roasting, they allow of
two other methods of cooking : they may be cooked in butter,
in a saucepan ; or they may be poached in excellent strong and
gelatinous veal stock.

This last mode of procedure greatly enhances the quail's
quality and is frequently used.

1884— CAILLES EN CASSEROLE

Cook them in butter, in the saucepan in which they will be
served.

Swill with a few drops of brandy ; add a little game fumet ;
cover, and serve very hot.

1885— CAILLES AUX CERISES

For four quails : — Truss them as for an entree and cook them
with butter in a saucepan. Swill with a little brandy and a
glass of port, in which a piece of orange rind should have
soaked.

Add three tablespoonfuls of excellent veal stock, three table-
spoonfuls of red-currant jelly and about forty cherries, pre-
viously poached in a boiling syrup of about 18° (Saccharometer)
and cooled in the syrup.

Drain them before adding them to the quail, and, if the
sauce be too insipid, sharpen it with a few drops of lemon juice.

1886— CAILLES A LA DAUPHINE

Wrap each quail in a buttered vine-leaf and a thin, square
slice of bacon, and roast them for ten minutes.

Meanwhile, prepare a well-seasoned pur^e of fresh peas with
lettuce, and reduce it to a somewhat stiff consistence.

Line the bottom and sides of a deep dish with very thin
slices of ham ; pour the pur^e into it ; smooth the surface, and
half-plunge the quails into this pur^e.

Place in the oven for ten minutes, and this done, send the
dish to the table immediately.

Q Q 2

596 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

1887— CAILLES FIGARO

Insert a piece of truffle into each quail, and wrap them each
in a piece of gut together with a bit of pale veal glaze, the
size of a pigeon's egg. String the pieces of gut at two points
one in. from either extremity of the quails, that the envelope
may not burst while cooking. Poach the quails in good veal
stock, that they may not be washed as they would be if the
gut happened to burst in a poaching-liquor consisting of salted
water.

Serve the quails as they leave their cooking-liquor.

1888— CAILLES A LA QRECQUE

Cook the quails in a saucepan, and set them in a timbale,
half-garnished with " Riz k la Grecque." Swill the saucepan
with a few tablespoonfuls of game fumct, and pour this swilling-
liquor over the quails, without clearing it of grease.

i88{^— CAILLES JULIETTE

Divide the quails into two along the back and do not separate
the two halves ; season them ; sprinkle them with melted butter
and finely-chopped truffle. Wrap each quail in a piece of pig's
caul ; sprinkle again with melted butter and fine raspings, and
grill gently.

Dish the quails and sprinkle them with a few drops of ver-
juice.

1890— CAILLES JUDIC

Poele the quails.

Dish them in the form of a crown, each on a small, braised
lettuce, with a cock's kidney on either side and a truffle on
top. Coat with a half-glaze sauce prepared with quail fiimet.

1891— CAILLES LUCULLUS

Cook the quails in butter. Dish them in a circle on a
round dish, each on an oval or rectangular fried crouton, and
between each set a fine truffle cooked in Champagne and chicken
glaze.

1892— CAILLES A LA NORMANDE

Peel, mince and toss some apples in butter, as explained
under " Faisan k la Normande." Allow half an apple per quail.
Garnish the bottom of a cocotte with some of these apples ; upon
them set the quails, browned in butter; add what remains of
the apples; sprinkle with a few tablespoonfuls of cream, and
complete the cooking in the oven.

GAME 597

1893— CAILLES AUX PETITS POIS A LA ROMAINE

Cook the quails in butter. At the same time, fry in butter
one small new onion and two-thirds oz. of raw, chopped ham,
for each quail. Add some peas, shelled at the last moment, and
cook without any moistening whatsoever.

The moisture contained in the ham and peas is sufficient for
the cooking. The peas should be ready simultaneously with
the quails.

Serve the quails and the peas separately, in little, closed tim-
bales. The diner mixes them.

1894— CAILLES AUX RAISINS

Cook the quails in butter. Swill the utensil with a few drops
of dry, white wine and a little verjuice ; add half a tablespoonf ul
of strong game fumet for each quail ; and dish in a very hot
cocotte with about one oz. of fresh peeled grapes for each quail.

1895— CAILLES RICHELIEU

Select some fresh and plump quails; remove their gizzards;
season them inside with a grain of salt and a few drops of
brandy; insert a piece of raw truffle into each bird, and truss
them as for an entree. Set them in a saut^pan, snugly pressed
one against the other, and season them with salt. Cover them
with a coarse julienne of carrots, onions and celery, cooked in
butter, and prepared as far as possible from new vegetables.

Moisten, just enough to cover, with some succulent ambpr-
coloured veal stock, gelatinous and fine; cover, boil, and then
poach gently for twelve minutes.

This done, add a julienne of truffles (raw if possible) which
should equal only half of the vegetable julienne, and poach for
a further two minutes, that the truffles may cook and the quails
be done.

Dish in a timbale, clear of grease, and pour the cooking-
liquor and the julienne over the quails.

Pilaff rice is often served with quails prepared in this way.

1896— RIZOTTO DE CAILLES

Into each quail insert a piece of fresh, pounded pork fat,
the size of a hazel nut, combined with an equal quantity of
white truffle ; and cook them in a saucepan with butter.

Add their fat to a previously-prepared Rizotto. Dish this
rizotto in a timbale, and hollow it out so as to make a nest for
the quails.

Sprinkle the latter with the saucepan-swillings, consisting
of game fumet ; and send the dish to the table at once.

598 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

1897— CAILLES SOUS LA CENDRE

Stuff the quails with a little smooth truffled game force-
meat, and wrap them each in a buttered vine-leaf, followed
by a slice of bacon, and finally by two sheets of buttered paper.

Place them on the hearth-stone; cover them with very hot
cinders, and cook thus for thirty-five minutes, taking care to
renew the hot cinders from time to time.

When about to serve them, remove the outside covering of
paper which is charred, but leave the other coverings.

N.B. — A log fire is essential for this recipe.

1898— CAILLES SOUVAROFF

Prepare these as described under " Faisan k la Souvaroff "
(No. 1845).

1899— CAILLES A LA TURQUE

Truss the quails as for an entrt^e; brown them in butter, and
complete their cooking in pilaff rice, combined with a quarter
of its weight of cooked and chopped egg-plant pulp.

Set the rice in a pyi-amid on a dish; place the quails all
round (upright against the rice), and surround with a thread of
quail fumet.

1900— TIMBALE DE CAILLES ALEXANDRA

Coat a well-buttered timbale mould with patty paste, and
line it with slices of bacon so as to completely cover the paste.
The slices of bacon in this case are there to prevent the mois-
tening of the timbale from reaching the paste. Insert a piece
of foie gras into each quail ; stiffen them in butter, and set
them against the sides of the timbale in successive tiers.

Completely garnish the middle with small, peeled truffles;
add one-quarter pint of excellent stock with Madeira (per six
quails), and a few bits of bay-leaf. Close the timbale with
a layer of paste and cook in a moderately hot oven for one and
one-quarter hours.

Turn out upon withdrawing from the oven, and serve the
dish as it stands.

N.B. — (i) The shell of paste merely serves to hold in the
quails and their garnish, and ought not to be eaten

(2) The same timbale may be prepared with ortolans, except
that these need only forty-five minutes' cooking.

GAME 599

Cold Quails

1901— CHAUD-FROID DE CAILLES EN BELLE-VUE

The quails should be boned for a chaud-f roid, and stuffed with
gratin forcemeat of game with a rod of foie gras and another
of truffle set in the middle. This done, reshape them; wrap
them each in a square of muslin; poach them for twenty
minutes in an excellent veal stock, and let them cool therein.

When they are quite cold, dry them ; and dip them, so as to
veneer them all over, in a good brown chaud-froid sauce (No.
34), prepared with quail fumet. Decorate the breast of each
quail elegantly with bits of truffle and poached white of egg;
sprinkle with cold melted savoury jelly, so as to fix the decora-
tion ; and leave to set.

Remove the excess of sauce from around the quails; set

them in a square, deep dish ; cover them with very good limpid

savoury jelly, and place them in a refrigerator until they are

required.

1902— CAILLES EN CAISSES

Prepare the quails as for a chaud-froid, as above; but set

each in an oval, pleated case of delicate porcelain or paper.

Border with a thin thread of chopped jelly, and on each quail

set a head, the eyes of which may be imitated by means of a

ring of white of egg and a central spot of truffle.

1903— CAILLES QLACEES AU QRANITE

I shall only give a few recipes of this class ; for the series is
a long one, and I recommend them more particularly on account
of their quaintness. These dishes, wherein a sugary and glazed
preparation is introduced, are highly esteemed in summer; but
they really belong to the culinary repertory of hot countries.

1904— CAILLES QLACEES CERISETTE. Prepare the quails
as for an entrde and poach them for 1 2 minutes in a strong veal
stock, with Champagne. This done, put them each into a small,
oval mould ; fill up these moulds with cooking-liquor, cleared of all
grease and strained, and leave them to set on ice.

This preliminary procedure applies to all quail dishes in this
series.

Now prepare a Granit6 with cherry juice (see No. 2930).

Set this Granite in a pyramid on a dish incrusted in ice. Turn
out the quails and place them round the Granitd ; fill up the
gaps between them with small heaps of stoned cherries, poached
in syrup for a few minutes and quite cold.

6oo GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

1905— CAILLES QLACEES CARMEN. Prepare the quails as
above, and place them round a rock of Granite made from
pomegranates.

1906— CAILLES QLACEE5 MARYLAND. Set them round
a rock of Granite made with pineapple.

1907— CAILLES GLAC^ES REINE AMELIE. Prepare the
quails in the usual way, and lay them round a rock of Granite
prepared with tomatoes.

1908— CAILLES GLACEES AU ROMANEE. Poach the quails
in stock combined with Romance wine, and set them round a rock
of Granite made with verjuice.

1909— FILETS DE CAILLES AUX POMMES D'OR. Raise

the quails' supremes, after having poached and cooled them. Set
these supremes in the rinds of small oranges or tangerines, and fill
up the rinds with jelly prepared with Port. When about to serve,
deck each orange or tangerine, by means of the piping-bag, with
a small ornament of Granite, prepared with the juice of the
fruit used.
1910— CAILLES CECILIA

Roast the quails, keeping them juicy, and leave them to cool.

This done, raise their fillets and skin these; then, with the
remains of the meat and an equal quantity of foie gras, prepare
a pur^e.

Set each fillet of quail on a similarly-shaped slice of liver,
causing it to adhere by means of the prepared pur^e, and coat
with brown chaud-froid sauce.

When the sauce has quite set, place these fillets in an even
border-mould, clothed with very limpid aspic, and decorated
with truffles. Fill up the mould with the same aspic jelly,
and let the latter set.

When about to serve, turn out on a napkin, after the manner
of an aspic.
191 1— CAILLES AU CHATEAU-YQUEM

Prepare the quails like those " ^ la Richelieu " (No. 1895).
After having added the julienne, sprinkle them with Chateau-
Yquem ; cover ; reduce, and complete their cooking as directed.

When they are poached, transfer them to another saucepan ;
add ten slices of truffle per quail; strain their cooking-liquor,
through muslin, over them, and poach them for a further two
minutes.

This done, place the quails in a timbale ; cover them with the
cooking-liquor cleared of all grease; leave it to set, and serve on
a block of ice.

GAME 601

191a— MANDARINES DE CAILLES

Slice the tangferine rinds at their stem-ends with an even
round cutter; reniove the sections; put them to dry, and skin
them raw.

Three-parts garnish the tangerine rinds with a quail Mousse,
combined with foie gras, cut into dice; set a roasted quail's
fillet on the Mousse ; coat with brown chaud-froid sauce, and
cover with the sections of tangerine, glazed with aspic jelly.
Keep in the cool for some time and dish on a napkin.

1913— CAILLES NILLSON

Proceed as for " Cailles au Chateau-Yquem, " and set each
quail in a small, silver cassolette. Cover with the cooking-
liquor, cleared of grease and strained, and surround each quail
with four small very white cocks' kidneys.

19 14— CAILLES RICHELIEU FROIDES

Prepare these like the "Hot Cailles Richelieu"; place
them in a square, deep dish ; cover with the cooking-liquor and
the garnish and let them cool until the cooking-liquor sets.
Then clear the dish of all grease and serve on a block of ice.

191S— TIMBALE DE CAILLES TZARINE

Line a round pie-dish with ordinary paste, and coat it inside
with slices of bacon. In the middle, place a fresh foie gras
seasoned with salt, pepper and allspice, and surround it with
quails, stuffed with quarters of truffles, set upright with their
breasts against the bacon.

Fill up the timbale with whole raw and peeled truffles;
cover with a round slice of bacon ; close the timbale with a layer
of paste sealed down round the edges; make a slit in the top,
and bake in a hot oven for one and one-quarter hours.

When withdrawing the timbale from the oven, pour into
it some veal stock flavoured with Madeira, and let it be suffi-
ciently gelatinous to set like a jelly.

Keep the timbale in the cool for one or two days before
serving it.

1916— CAILLES A LA VENDANQEUSE

Roast the quails; let them cool, and set them, each in a
little dosser of dry paste, resting against a cushion lying on a
round dish. On top of the cushion plant a leafy vine-shoot
bearing grapes. Surround the quails v/ith white and black
grapes (peeled and pipped) and cover with a slightly gelatinous
aspic jelly, prepared with liqueur brandy.

6o2 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

1917— MOUSSES DE CAILLES

See the various remarks made concerning this subject, under
Pheasant, Partridge and Woodcock.

1918— LAND RAIL, ROI DE CAILLES
OU RALE DE GENETS

The Land Rail, which must not be confused with the Water
Rail, is most often served roasted, but all the quail recipes,
hot or cold (except those in which Granite forms an accompani-
ment) may be applied to it.

1919— HAZEL-HENS 1920— BLACK GAME

1921— PRAIRIE-HENS 1922— PTARMIGAN

1923— GROUSE 1924— GANGAS

These birds, one or two of which, such as grouse and the
hazel-hen, are of incomparable delicacy and high culinary value,
are mostly served roasted.

Mousses, Mousselines and Salmis are also prepared from
them, after the directions already given. But I must remind
the reader that when they serve in the preparation of a salmis,
their skins and legs, which are bitter, must be discarded.

All these birds must be treated while still very fresh.

1925— GRIVES ET MERLES DE CORSE
(Thrushes and Corsican Blackbirds)

The greater part of the quail recipes, more particularly the
"en casserole" and "sous la cendre " ones, may be applied
to these excellent birds.

The two following recipes are proper to them.

1926— GRIVES OU MERLES A LA BONNE-FEMME

Cook the birds in butter, with one oz. of very small dice of
salted breast of bacon to each bird. Put them into a hot cocotte
with two-thirds oz. of butter per bird; heat; add some square
croutons fried in butter; sprinkle with the saucepan-swillings,
which should be a few drops of brandy ; cover, and serve very
hot immediately.

1927— GRIVES OU MERLES A LA LI^QEOISE

Cook the birds in butter on the stove, in an uncovered
earthenware saucepan. When they are nearly done, sprinkle
them with two finely-chopped juniper berries per bird; add
some round croutons of bread-crumb fried in butter ; cover, and
serve very hot.

This procedure particularly suits thrushes, more especially
when these come from the Ardennes.

GAME 603

1928— QRIVESIET MERLES FROIDS

The various, cold preparations of quails, except those com-
prising a Granite, may be applied to thrushes.

Alouettes ou Mauviettes (Larks)

These birds are generally served to the number of two or
three for each person.

1929— MAUVIETTES A LA BONNE -FEMME

Proceed exactly as directed for the thrushes.

1930— MAUVIETTES A LA MBRE MARIANNE

Slice some peeled and cored russet apples, and three-parts
cook them in butter. Spread this stew in thick layers on a
buttered dish.

Simply stiffen the seasoned larks in nut-brown butter, and
place them upon the stewed apples, pressing them slightly into
the latter. Sprinkle with very fine bread-crumbs and melted
butter, and set to glaze in the oven or at the Salamander, just
long enough to complete the cooking of the larks.

1 93 1— ALOUETTES DU P6RE PHILIPPE

Clean some fine, medium-sized potatoes, allowing one to
each lark; and cut a cover from each, which thin down until it
is only one-sixth inch thick. With a root-spoon, hollow out the
potatoes in such wise as to allow of their each enclosing a lark.

Stiffen the larks in butter, and add thereto some salted breast
of bacon, cut into small dice and blanched, and in the propor-
tion of one-third oz. per lark. Place a lark in each potato,
together with a few bacon dice and some of the cooking-fat;
return cover of each potato to its place; fix it there by means
of cotton, and wrap each potato in oiled paper.

Lay them on the hearth, cover them with hot cinders, and
cook for about forty minutes, taking care to renew the cinders
from time to time.

1932— MAUVIETTES FROIDES

When cold, larks may be prepared in plain chaud-froid
fashion, in cases, in Belle-vue, in Aspic, as Mousses, &c., in
pursuance of the directions given under these various recipes.

•933— ORTOLANS

Serve ortolans as plainly as possible; but the best method
of preparing them is roasting. However;, for the sake of variety,
they may be prepared as follows : —

6o4 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

1934— SYLPHIDES D'O^TO^ANS_

Butter some very small porcelain or silver cassolettes, and
garnish them half-full with mousseline forcemeat of ortolans
prepared with truffle essence.

Set these cassolettes in the front of the oven, that the force-
meat may poach. Cook in butter, for three minutes only, as
many ortolans as there are garnished cassolettes, and proceed
so as to have them just ready when the forcemeat is poached.

Place an ortolan in each cassolette, and sprinkle them with
nut-brown butter, combined with a little pale melted glaze and
pineapple juice.

1935— BECS-FIQUES ET BEQUINETTES
(Fig Peckers)

These birds are not met with in English markets; it is
therefore useless to give the recipes concerning them. I will
only say that they may be prepared like the larks.

1936— CANARDS SAUVAQES (Wild Duck)

1937— 5ARCELLES (Teal)

1938— PI LETS (Pintails and Widgeons)

Birds of this class are mostly served roasted.

They may, however, be used in preparing excellent Salmis,
which may be made after " Salmis de Faisan " (No. 1847) or
after " Salmis k la Rouennaise " (No. 1763).

They may also be prepared after all the recipes of " Caneton
k la Rouennaise."

>939— PLUVIERS DORES (Golden Plover)

1940— VANNEAUX (Lapwings)

1941— CHEVALIERS DIVERS (Various Sandpipers)

These various birds are generally served roasted.

They may also be served " en Salmis," but in that case the
skin must be discarded in the preparation of the cullis.

They only appear on very ordinary menus, and could not be
served at an important dinner.

CHAPTER XVII
ROASTS AND SALADS

In the first part of this work I explained the funclamental
principles governing the treatment of Roasts, and I now have
to add only a few words to what has already been said. Re-
cipes may be consummate in detail and in accuracy, and Still
they will be found wanting in the matter of Roasts; for ex-
perience alone can tell the operator whether the joint he is
treating be old or young, fresh or stale; whether it must be
cooked quickly or slowly, and all the theories that I might
advance on this subject, though perhaps they might not be
useless, would at least prove impracticable nine times out of
ten.

I shall not prescribe any limit of time for Roasts, except in
very special cases, and even so that limit will only be approxi-
mate.

Nothing can be made precise in the matter; long practice
alone, away from books, will teach it ; for book-rules can only
be understood when the light of practical knowledge is focussed
upon them.

15^42— ACCOMPANlMENt OF ROASTS

It struck me as desirable that I should give in this chapter
the recipes of the various preparations which, in England, are
served with Roasts : — Yorkshire Pudding, Veal Stuffing, &c.
Having treated of the accompanying sauces to Roasts in Part i,
I need only recall them here.

1943— YORKSHIRE PUDDING (For Beef Roasts)

Mix one-half lb. of sifted flour with six eggs and one quart
of boiled milk, adding the eggs one by one and the milk little
by little. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg.

Pour this preparation into a deep baking-pan, containing
some very hot dripping, and bake in the oven. If the joint be
roasted on the spit, put the Yorkshire pudding under it, on
taking the former Oiit of the oven, and let it thus become
saturated with the gravy and fat that fall from the roast.

6o6 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

Cut into squares or lozenges, and set these round the Roast
or serve them separately.

1944— SAGE AND ONIONS STUFFING
(For Turkeys, Ducks and Geese)

Bake four large onions in the oven vi^ith their skins on.
This done, peel them and finely chop them ; fry them in butter
with a pinch of dry green chopped sage. Add bread-crumbs,
soaked in milk and pressed, equal in weight to the onions, and
half the weight of chopped veal fat.

1945— VEAL STUFFING (For Veal and Pork)

This stuffing is made from equal quantities of chopped
suet, sifted bread-crumbs, and chopped parsley. Season with
salt and pepper as for an ordinary forcemeat, and be liberal
with the nutmeg.

Cohere this forcemeat with three small eggs per two lbs. of
the above preparation.

1946— ROASTS OF BUTCHER'S MEAT

I must remind the reader of this principle, viz. : that how-
ever natural it may seem in a dinner to serve a roasted joint
as a Remove, a piece of butcher's meat must never stand as a
Roast.

Roasts really only comprise Fowl and Feathered Game, pro-
vided the menu only announces one roast. If two are an-
nounced, the second generally consists of some kind of crus-
tacean, such as a. Lobster, a Spiny Lobster or Crayfish, generally
served in the form of a Mousse ; or of a preparation of foie
gras, i.e. : either a Pate, a Terrine, a Mousse or a Parfait ;
sometimes, too, by a very good ham or a derivative preparation
thereof.

Beef Roasts

1947— ROAST RIBS OF BEEF

Clear the joint of the vertebrje and the yellow ligaments.
Roast before a moderately fierce fire, and place the joint if pos-
sible in an uncovered braising-pan, the sides of which may pro-
tect the meat during the cooking process.

1948— ROAST UPPER-FILLET

Break the projecting bones of the vertebrae, and sever the
yellow ligament at various points. For this joint the heat
should be fiercer than in the previous case,, the limit of time
being less.

LES r6TIS ET LES SALADES 607

1949— ROAST SIRLOIN

These enormous pieces are scarcely trimmed; the excess of
flank alone is suppressed; but the fillet must remain covered
by a considerable thickness of fat, which protects it while
roasting.

Without this precautionary measure, the under-cut would be
cooked long before the upper-fillet, and would dry up.

The fire should be concentrated, regular and not too fierce
for this joint. The flat bones of the vertebrae must be broken
at their base, but not detached.

1950— FILLET OF BEEF

Fillet of beef intended for roasting should be carefully cleared
of its two sinewy envelopes. But, since this trimming tends to
let it dry while cooking, were the meat left as it stands, it is
customary to lard it with strips of fresh fat bacon, which protect
it; or it may be wrapped in slices of bacon. In certain cir-
cumstances, it is covered on top and beneath with slices of beef
fat, flattened to the thickness of a rasher of bacon by means of
a beater, and tied on with string.

Fillet of beef should be cooked with a somewhat fierce fire,
and, in England, it is usually kept underdone towards the
centre.

N.B. — Large roast joints of beef are always accompanied
by Yorkshire pudding, grated Horse-radish or Horse-radish
sauce (No. 119 or 138).

1951— rOTIS DE VEAU (Veal Roasts)

In my opinion, the spit does not suit veal, whatever be the
quality of the latter. Poeling (No. 250) is preferable and suits
it better.

The quality of meat can but be enhanced under the treat-
ment I suggest, more particularly as the ^oe7m^-liquor con-
stitutes a much richer gravy than that which generally accom-
panies veal roasted on the spit. In English cookery roast veal
is always accompanied by boiled ham or breast of bacon. Veal
Stuffing (No. 1945) poached in steam in a special mould, and
cut into slices, is sent at the same time.

Roast joints of veal are generally the Loin, the best end,
the Neck or the Fillet.

Sometimes, too, but more rarely, the Cushion is roasted.

1952— MUTTON AND LAMB ROASTS

Mutton and Lamb are the best possible meats to roast,
and, as far as they are concerned, the culinary treatment might
be limited to roasting.

6o8 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

True, good results are obtained from poaching mutton and
poeling home-Iamb ; but it is advisable only to have recourse
to these methods when a menu requires varying.

The Mutton joints roasted are the Leg, the Double or Pair
of Hind-legs, the Baron or (Hindquarters), the Saddle and the
Neck.

The Shoulder also makes an excellent roast, but it may only
appear on more or less unimportant menus.

Roast joints of mutton and lamb are always accompanied by
Mint Sauce (No. 136).

1953 -PORK ROASTS

Pork roasts may only appear on very ordinary menus, and
really belong to domestic cookery. The pork joints for roasting
are the Legs, the Fillets, and the Neck.

The joints selected should be those derived from very young
animals, and the rind should be left upon them, and cut deeply
in criss-cross lines, so as to form a lozenge pattern.

Pork should always be roasted before a fierce fire, and it is
accompanied by its gravy and Sage and Onions (No. 1944) or
Apple sauce (No, 112). Sometimes Apple sauce is replaced
by Cranberry sauce (No. 115); while Roberts sauce Escoffier is
also admirably suited to these roasts.

1954— VENISON ROASTS

I have already pointed out that Roebuck is not very much
eaten in England, and that this excellent ground game must
be used without having been marinaded. Every piece of roe-
buck must be trimmed and cleared of tendons, larded with
larding bacon, or, at least, carefully wrapped in the latter; and
roasted before a fierce fire and kept underdone towards the
centre.

The joints of roebuck most commonly roasted are the Legs
and the Saddle.

The fallow Deer and the Stag supply the greater part of the
Venison consumed in England; and when these animals are of
good quality their flesh is covered by a thick coat of white fat,
which is very highly esteemed by connoisseurs. Only the neck
and the haunch are roasted, and the latter consists of one leg
with half of the saddle attached.

This venison is never marinaded, but it should be kept for
as long as possible in a dry and well-aired place, that the meat
may be gamy.

Before hanging the joint, dredge it well with a mixture of
flour and pepper, that it may keep dry and free from the flies.

LES r6TIS ET LES SALADES 609

When about to prepare this Venison, scrape off the coating
of flour; wrap it in an envelope of firm suet dough. Cover the
whole with oiled paper, tied on with string; and place the
joint before a regular, red fire, concentrated and fierce.

When the joint is thought to be cooked, peel off its envelope ;
season it with salt ; sprinkle it with a few pinches of flour, and
plenty of melted butter, and brown it as quickly as possible.

Large joints of Venison allow of the following adjuncts : —
Poivrade sauce and its derivatives, such as Venison sauce and
Grand-VeneuT sauce; also the Cumberland and Oxford sauces
of English cookery. Generally a sauceboat of red-currant jelly
is sent with these joints, unless the accompanying sauce already
contains some of it.

Fowl Roasts

«955— PULLETS

Large birds, when roasted, should always be salted inside,
trussed and covered with slices of bacon. They should be
cooked before a concentrated and moderately fierce fire. About
ten minutes before unhooking them, remove their covering of
bacon, that their breasts may colour.

A bird is known to be cooked when the juice which issues
from it, if it be held over a plate, is white. Having ascertained
that it is cooked, set it on a very hot dish and serve it instantly.

In England it is customary to surround the fowl with grilled
sausages or slices of bacon, and to send a sauceboat of bread
sauce (No. 1 13) at the same time as the gravy.

1956— TRUFFLED PULLET

Empty the pullet intended for truffling, by means of a little
hole on the side of the belly, and remember to keep the skin of
the neck whole. This done, remove the collar bone at the
summit of the breast, and detach the skin from the whole of
the breast.

For a fine pullet, there will be needed one and one-half lbs.
of truffles.

After having well brushed and washed the truffles, carefully
peel them; select one of the largest; cut it into slices, and put
these aside.

Now quarter the other, letting each piece weigh about three
oz.

Pound the truffle peel with two lbs. of very fresh pork fat,
and rub the whole through a sieve. Take about one-half lb. of
this fat: melt it, together with a bay-leaf; and, when it is quite

R R

6io GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

liquid, add the quartered truffles to it (seasoned with salt and
pepper), and simmer the whole for about ten minutes.

This done, take it off the fire; leave to cool almost entirely
under cover, and mix with what remains of the truffled fat.

Stuff the pullet with this preparation, and slip between the
bird's skin and the flesh of its breast some thin slices of bacon.
Upon the slices of bacon place the reserved slice of truffle ; care-
fully sew up all the openings in the pullet with very thin string ;
wrap it in one or two sheets of buttered paper ; put it on the spit,
and stand it before a concentrated fire which should be kept at
an even heat throughout the process of roasting.

About one-quarter of an hour before serving, remove the
paper and the slices of bacon, that the breast may colour. Set
on a hot dish, and send the gravy, which should be kept rather
fat, separately.

The time allowed for roasting a fine fowl is somewhere
between one and one-quarter to one and one-half hours.

•957— CHICKEN A LA REINE AND SPRING CHICKENS

The directions given for the pullet also apply to other kinds
of fowl, provided the difference in size be taken into account.

1958— SPRING CHICKENS A LA RUSSE

Truss the chicken and soak its breast for five minutes in
boiling water, that the flesh and the skin may be stiff.

Lard it with thin strips of bacon and anchovy fillets; fill it
with smooth, truffled sausage-meat, and roast it on the spit.

At the last moment, when the bird is cooked, baste it by
means of a special paper horn, with burning melted bacon fat,
which should frizzle the fowl's skin as it falls upon it.

Serve a R^moulade sauce separately.

« 959— ROAST CHICKS

These birds should, if possible, be cooked " a la casserole."
i960— ROAST YOUNG TURKEYS

Before trussing the young turkey, clear its legs of all ten-
dons ; an operation effected by means of two incisions made on
the inside of the legs, above and below the last joint. Seize
the tendons one by one; fasten them to a braiding needle, and
gently turn the latter, thus rolling the tendons round it.

Young turkey is covered with slices of bacon and roasted
like the Pullet.

It may be stuffed with Sage and Onions (No. 1944), or it
may be accompanied by Veal Stuffing (No. 1945), poached in

LES r6TIS ET LES SALADES 6ii

steam in a special mould, and cut into slices set around the
bird.

It is often accompanied, also, by boiled or grilled bacon, or
grilled sausages. A Bread sauce or a Cranberry sauce may be
served in addition to the gravy.

1961— TRUFFLED YOUNQ TURKEY

Proceed as for truffled pullet, after taking the difference of
size into account in order to increase the quantity of truffles
and fat, sis also the time limit.

1962— ROAST GOSLING

The Gosling, in order to be roasted, should just have reached
its full growth. In England the bird is stuffed with Sage and
Onions (No. 1944), and it is always accompanied by Apple
Sauce (No. 112).

This roast must not stand waiting, and ought to be served

very hot.

1963— CANETON R6TI (Roast Duckling)

Aylesbury duckling, which is equal to the Nantes variety,
is generally stuffed with Sage and Onions before being roasted.

Its most usual adjunct is Apple Sauce, which is sometimes
replaced by melted, red-currant jelly or a Cranberry Sauce.

1964— CANETON ROUENNAIS

See the various recipes dealing with this bird (Nos. 1754 to
1764).

1965— PINTADE (Guinea Fowl)

This bird is only roasted when quite young, and it is treated
like the pheasant, with which it has some points in common.

1966— YOUNG PIGEONS (Squabs)
Select them fresh from the nest and very plump. They must
be roasted before a very fierce fire and only just done. Their
skin must be kept crisp.

Ground-Game Roasts

1967— HARE

The piece supplied by the hare for roasting is the ' ' RSble ' '
(the back), which constitutes that part of the animal reaching
from the root of the neck to the tail, the latter being included.

The " Rable " should be cleared of all tendons, and deli-
cately larded with bacon.

Roast before a fierce fire for twenty minutes, and have it only
just done. The usual adjunct to this piece is Poivrade Sauce.
In Northern countries, the adjunct is most commonly some
slightly-sugared, stewed apples, or red currant jelly.

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6i2 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

In Germany, the pan in which the Rable is roasted is
swilled with sour cream, and this cream constitutes the accom-
paniment. Sometimes a few drops of lemon juice or a table-
spoon of melted meat glaze is added.

1968— YOUNG RABBIT

The various recipes for Hare also apply to the young wild
rabbit.

Feathered-Game Roasts
1969— FAISAN R6TI

Everything I said in the preceding chapter concerning the
classification of feathered game applies in this instance.

All birds intended for roasting should be young, plump,
and fat. They should also be high in the case of pheasants,
partridges, and the various kinds of woodcock and snipe.

A pheasant for roasting should always be covered with slices
of bacon.

An excellent practice which greatly improves the bird is
that of stuffing it with a piece of fresh pork fat, pounded with
peelings of fresh truffles, if possible.

Instead of well-pounded fresh pork fat, an equal weight of
fresh butter may be used.

This fatty substance impregnates the meat when it melts, and
keeps the bird from becoming dry while cooking. The method
also applies to partridge. Roast pheasant is generally accom-
panied by two trimmed half-lemons and a dish of potato chips.
The gravy, which should be fat, is served in a sauceboat, and
bread sauce or some bread-crumbs fried in butter are sent at
the same time.

1970— FAISAN R6TI a la PJ^RIQOURDINE

Stuff the pheasant with two oz. of pounded fresh pork fat,
two oz. of foie-gras trimmings, and a similar quantity of raw-
truffle parings, the whole pounded together and combined with
one-half lb. of raw truffles, cut into large dice.

After having covered the pheasant with slices of bacon, roast
it in accordance with the directions given under Truffled Pullet.
It is better, however, to cook and serve it in a cocotte.

1971— FAISAN A LA QUNZBOURG

Bone two fine snipes; empty them of their intestines; fry
these in butter, and crush them on a plate. Chop up the meat
of the snipes, combining half its weight of cream with it, and
as much butter; season with salt and pepper, and add the
crushed intestines and four oz. of truffles cut into large dice.

LES R6TIS ET LES SALADES 613

Stuff a fine pheasant with this preparation ; roast it " en
casserole," or rather in a cocotte.

At the last moment sprinkle with a little fumet, prepared
from the snipes' carcasses.

1972— PARTRIDQES

The above recipes, dealing with pheasants, may be applied
to partridges.

1973— QUAILS

Select them white, very fat, and with the fat firm.

Wrap them in a buttered vine-leaf and a thin slice of bacon,
and roast them before a fierce fire for ten or twelve minutes.

Dish on small bread-crumb croutons, fried in butter with
half-lemons.

Serve their gravy, which, of course, should be very short,
separately.

1974— ROAST ORTOLANS

Wrap each in a vine-leaf; set them on a tray, moistened
with salted water, and cause them to set in a fierce oven for
four or five minutes.

The small amount of water lying on the bottom of the
utensil produces an evaporation which prevents the ortolans'
fat from melting; consequently there is no need of slices of
bacon, butter, or gravy.

Each ortolan may be served in a half-lemon, shaped like a
basket.

N.B. — The ortolan is suiificient in itself, and it ought only
to be eaten roasted. The products sometimes served as ad-
juncts to it, such as truffles and foie gras, are deleterious, if
anything, to its quality, for they modify the delicacy of its
flavour, and this modification is more particularly noticeable
the more highly flavoured the adjunctive products may be.

With its accompaniments it becomes a sumptuous dish, for
the simple reason that it is expensive; but it does not follow
that the true connoisseur will like it; it must be plainly roasted
to suit him.

1975— ORTOLANS AUX QUESTCHES

Cut two large questches into halves, and allow one half for
each ortolan. Garnish the inside of each with a piece of butter
the size of a hazel-nut; set them on a tray, and put them in the
oven. When they are almost cooked, on each half of the
questches place a moistened ortolan, wrapped in a vine-leaf,
and bake them in a very hot oven for four minutes.

Salt them when taking them out of the oven, and sprinkle
them, by means of a brush, with verjuice.

6 14 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

Serve them as they stand, but the questches are not eaten ;
they only serve as a support for the ortolan.
1976— ORTOLANS AU SUC D' AN ANAS

Heat some fresh butter in a flat, earthenware cocotte, and
allow one-quarter oz. of it to each ortolan. Roll the previously
salted ortolans in this butter, and put them in a very hot oven
for three minutes.

When taking them out of the oven, sprinkle them with a
few tablespoonfuls of very cold pine-apple juice. Cover the
cocotte, and serve immediately.

The cocotte should be just large enough to hold the ortolans.
1977— ROAST WOODCOCK

It should be just sufficiently high. Remove its gizzard;
truss it, piercing the legs with the beak, after having drawn
the eyes; cover it with slices of bacon, and cook it before a
good fire for from fifteen to eighteen minutes. Dish on a cushion
of fried bread, and serve the swilling-liquor separately, which
in this case should be brandy and a few drops of good game
gravy.

1978— SNIPES AND BECOTS

For the preparation, proceed as for the woodcock.

Cause to set before a fierce fire, and cook for nine minutes.

1979— QRIVES ET MERLES DE CORSE
(Thrushes and Corsican Blackbirds)

Truss them, and wrap them in slices of bacon. Insert a
juniper berry into the thrushes. Roast before a moderately
fierce fire for ten or twelve minutes, and dish on small cushions
of fried bread.

Serve a very short gravy separately.
1980— MAUVIETTES (Larks)

Wrap them in very thin slices of bacon, and impale them
on a skewer, or discard the slices of bacon, and merely impale
then on a skewer, separating them by blanched squares of
breast of bacon.

Roast for ten minutes before a fierce fire.

Dish on small fried croutons, with quarters of lemon and
bunches of watercress all round.

1 98 1— CANARDS SAUVAQES (Wild^Duck)
SARCELLES (Teal)
PILETS (Widgeons and Pintails)

These birds are not covered with slices of bacon, and are
roasted before a fierce fire.

LES ROTIS ET LES SALADES 615

Wild duck must be kept underdone, and, in view of this,
twenty minutes suffice for the roasting. Dish with lemons and
bunches of watercress all round.

Wild duck, roasted English-fashion. — Treat it as above;
send an apple sauce to the table with it.

Wild duck d la Bigarrade. — This is roasted in a similar
manner.

Surround it with sections of orange, skinned raw, and serve
a clear Bigarrade sauce separately.

The teal, which is a small, wild duck, is roasted before a
fierce fire for from ten to twelve minutes, and is surrounded
with lemons and watercress.

Widgeons and pintails are treated like the teal, but they are
allowed three or four minutes more in the roasting.

1982— PLUVIERS DORES (Golden Plover)
VANNEAUX (Lapwings)
CHEVALIERS DIVERS (Various Sandpipers)

These birds are not covered with slices of bacon ; they must
be roasted before a very fierce fire, and kept somewhat under-
done. They must be served as soon as ready, as waiting is
prejudicial to them.

They admit of no accompaniment or garnish, except a very
short gravy.

1983— GROUSES, COQS DE BRUYfiRE (Black Game)
GELINOTTES (Hazel-hens)

These birds must be very fresh when roasted, and should
be kept moderately underdone.

They allow of the same adjuncts as pheasant, i.e., bread
sauce, bread-crumbs, potato chips, and gravy ; and their
breasts alone are served as a rule. Grouse and hazel-hens,
when they are young, make incomparably fine roasts.

SALADS

Salads are of two kinds : simple, or compound. Simple, or
raw salads always accompany hot roasts; compound salads,
which generally consist of cooked vegetables, accompany cold
ro3.sts

1984— THE SEASONING OF SALADS

1. Oil seasoning may be applied to all salads, and is made
up of three parts of oil to one part of vinegar, with salt and
pepper.

2. Cream seasoning is particularly well suited to salads of

6i6 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

early-season lettuce and cos lettuce, and is made up of three
parts of very fresh and not very thick cream to one part of
vinegar.

3. Egg seasoning is prepared from crushed hard-boiled
yolks of egg, mixed in the salad-bowl with oil, vinegar, salt,
and pepper. The whites of egg, cut into thin strips, are added
to the salad. This seasoning may also be a light mayonnaise
sauce.

4. Bacon seasoning is used especially for dandelion, red-
cabbage, and corn salads. In this case the oil is replaced by
the grease of the bacon dice, which are melted and frizzled
in the omelet-pan. This grease is poured, while hot, with the
bacon dice, over the salad, which should be in a hot salad-bowl
and already seasoned with salt, pepper, and the vinegar which
has served in swilling the omelet-pan.

5. Mustard with cream seasoning is used particularly with
beetroot salads, with salads of celeriac, and with green salads
wherein beetroot plays a major part. It is made up of a
small tablespoonful of mustard, mixed with one-third pint
of fresh and somewhat thin cream, the juice of a fair-sized
lemon, salt, and pepper.

N.B. — I should like to point out that mayonnaise sauce
must only be used in very small quantities in the seasoning
of salads. It is indigestible, and many constitutions cannot
suffer it, especially at night at the end of a dinner.

Raw onion should likewise only be used in salads with
great moderation, in view of the fact that so many do not like
it. In any case, it should be finely ciseled, washed in fresh
water, and pressed in the corner of a towel.

1985— SIMPLE SALADS

They comprise, in the first place, those salads known under
the name of green salads. Such are lettuce, cos lettuce,
chicory, endive, batavia, celery, corn-salad, dandelion, pur-
slain, dittander, rampion, salsify leaves, white dandelion, &c.

1986— SALADS DE BETTERAVE (Beetroot Salad)

Beetroot is really the accompaniment of compound and
simple salads, and it is always best to cook it in the oven.
If it be prepared specially as a salad, cut it into a julienne or
into thin roundels ; flavour it with onions, first baked in cinders
and then finely chopped, and season it with mustard sauce
or with oil, according to fancy. Always add some chopped
herbs.

LES ROTIS ET LES SALADES 617

1987— CELERY SALAD

For salads, only the fibreless, white celery is used — com-
monly known as English celery. Cut it into pieces, and cisel
these into very thin strips without altogether separating the
latter at their base. Place in cold water for a few hours, that
the strips may curl; drain and season with a mustard sauce
with cream.

1988— CELERIAC SALAD

Cut the celeriac into a fine julienne or paysanne.

Season, according to fancy, with a mustard sauce with
cream, or a clear mayonnaise sauce containing plenty of
mustard.

1989— CAULIFLOWER SALAD

Divide the cooked and somewhat firm cauliflowers into
small bunches, cleared of all stalk. Season with oil and
vinegar, and flavour with chopped chervil.

1990— RED-CABBAQE SALAD

Suppress the midribs of the leaves; cut the leaves into a
julienne, and season them with oil and vinegar six hours in
advance. The julienne of cabbages may be parboiled for a few
minutes to modify the rawness of the vegetable ; it should then
be cooled and seasoned as above.

199 1— CUCUMBER SALAD

Peel and thinly slice them ; sprinkle the slices with table-
salt, and let them stand for two hours. Dry, and season them
with oil, vinegar, and chopped chervil.

1992— HARICOT BEANS AND LENTIL SALADS, ETC.

Thoroughly drain the vegetable, whatever be its kind;
season with oil and vinegar, and add some chopped parsley.
Serve separately some thinly-mcZed, washed, and pressed
onion.

1993— POTATO SALAD

Cut some long, fair-sized potatoes, cooked in salted water
and lukewarm, to the shape of corks, and divide up the latter
into thin roundels.

Season with oil and vinegar, and add some chopped herbs.

1994— POTATO SALAD A LA PARISIENNE

Select potatoes which do not crumble, such as the vitelottes
or new kidney potatoes. Cook them in salted water; cut them
to the shape of corks, and slice them (while still lukewarm) into
thin roundels. Put them into a salad-bowl, and sprinkle them
with two-thirds pint of white wine per two lbs. of potatoes.

6i8 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

Then season with oil and vinegar, add some chopped chervil
and parsley, and stir with care lest the roundels break.

1995— TOMATO SALAD

Select some medium-sized and rather firm tomatoes, and
scald them. Then skin them; cut them in two crosswise;
press them to clear them of juice and seeds ; cut them into thin
strips ; season them with oil and vinegar, and add some chopped
tarragon.

1996— COMPOUND SALADS

Unless tTiey leave the kitchen to be served immediately,
compound salads are dished without their constituents being
mixed. As the latter are generally of various colours, they
are seasoned and dished in distinct heaps of contrasted shades.

The dishing of compound salads is finished by means of
borders consisting of pieces of very red beetroot, gherkins,
truffles, roundels of potatoes, and radishes. The method of
arranging these vegetables constitutes the decoration, and the
latter, being subject to no rules, is merely a matter of taste.

I do not advise the moulding of compound salads, for the
increased sightliness resulting therefrom is small compared
with the loss in the taste of the preparation. The simplest
form of dishing is the best, and fancifulness should not be
indulged in, beyond the arrangement of the vegetables in a
pyramid, surrounded by a decorated border of jelly.

1997— SALADE ALLEMANDE

Take equal quantities of potatoes and apples, gherkins, and
herring-fillets, all cut into dice and arranged in heaps. Season
with hard-boiled egg sauce, and decorate with very red beet-
root.

1998— SALADE AMERICAINE

Peel and press some tomatoes, and cut them into thin
slices; cut some potatoes into thin roundels, and prepare a
short julienne of celery.

Decorate with roundels of hard-boiled eggs and thin onion
rings.

Season with oil and vinegar.

1999— SALADE ANDALOUSE

Peel and quarter some small tomatoes; cut some mild cap-
sicums jiilienne-iashion ; cook some rice plainly in salted water,
keeping each grain separate; add a little crushed garlic and
chopped onion and parsley.

Season with oil and vinegar.

LES ROTIS ET LES SALADES 619

2000— SALADE BELLE-FERMIERE

This salad consists of curled celery and equal quantities of
plain-boiled potatoes, beetroot, and capsicum — all these vege-
tables cut julienne-isLshion, the celery measuring one-third, and
the other ingredients two-thirds of the whole.

Season with mustard sauce with cream.

2001— SALADE CRESSONNIERE

This consists of potatoes k la Parisienne (No. 2017) and
watercress leaves, in equal quantities. Sprinkle with parsley,
chervil, and hard-boiled egg, mixed.

2002— SALADE ISABELLE

Thinly slice equal quantities of raw mushrooms, celery,

cooked potatoes, and artichoke-bottoms. Dish in distinct heaps.

Season with oil and vinegar, and add some chopped chervil.

2003— SALADE DANICHEFF

Take equal quantities of sliced and blanched celeriac, thin
roundels of potatoes, slices of artichoke-bottoms, strips of raw
mushrooms, and green asparagus-heads, and arrange them in
heaps.

Deck with crayfishes' tails, hard-boiled eggs, and truffles.
Season with mayonnaise sauce.

2004— SALADE DEMI=DEUIL

Take equal quantities of a julienne of potatoes and a julienne
of very black truffles. Decorate with rings of truffle girding
small roundels of potato, and rings of potato girding small
roundels of truffle. Alternate the two forms of rings.

Season with a mustard sauce with cream.

2005— SALADE D'ESTREES

Take equal quantities of curled celery and a moderately
small julienne of raw truffles. Season, when about to dish up,
with a mayonnaise sauce with mustard, slightly flavoured with
cayenne.

2006— SALADE A LA FLAMANDE

This consists of a coarse julienne of endives, a similar
julienne of potatoes, an onion baked in its skin, cooled, peeled,
and chopped, and some fillets of herring cut into dice, the
quantities being in the proportion of one-half of the whole
for the endives, one-quarter of the whole for the potatoes, and
the remaining quarter for the onion and fillets of herring.

Season with oil and vinegar, and add some chopped parsley
and chervil.

620 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

2007— SALADE FRANCILLON

Take some potato salad "k la Parisienne " (No. 2017),
previously marinaded in Chablis wine, some mussels (cleared
of their beards, and poached with celery), and slices of very
black truffle, the three constituents being in the proportion of
one-half, one-quarter, and one-quarter respectively.

Set the potato salad on the bottom of the salad bowl, and
lay thereon, by way of decoration, the mussels and the truffles
in alternate layers.

2008— SALADE ITALIENNE

Take equal quantities of carrots, turnips, potatoes, tomatoes,
and French beans — all cut into regular dice; also peas, small
stoned olives, capers, anchovy fillets in small dice, and herbs
for the seasoning.

Use hard-boiled eggs for the decoration.

Season with mayonnaise sauce.

2009— JOCKEY- CLUB SALAD

Take equal quantities of asparagus-heads and a julienne of
raw truffles; the two should be seasoned separately some tim.e
in advance.

Cohere, when about to dish, with a very little highly-
seasoned mayonnaise sauce.

20 lo— SALADE LACM6

Take equal quantities of red capsicums and tomato sauce;
plain-boiled rice, kept very white, and with each grain distinct ;
and ciseled, washed, and pressed onion.

Season with oil and vinegar, and flavour with curry.

201 1— SALADE DE LEGUMES

Take equal quantities of carrots and turnips, raised by
means of a grooved spoon-cutter ; potato dice ; French beans
cut lozenge-form ; peas ; small flageolets, and asparagus-heads ;
arrange them in distinct heaps, and set a fine bunch of cauli-
flower in the middle.

Season with oil and vinegar, and add some chopped parsley
and chervil.

N.B. — For vegetable salad, use freshly-cooked and uncooled
vegetables as much as possible.

2012— SALADE LORETTE

Take equal quantities of corn salad, and a julienne of beet-
root and celery. Season with oil and vinegar.

LES ROTIS ET LES SALADES 621

2013— SALADE MIQNON

Take equal quantities of shelled shrimps' tails, artichoke-
bottoms, cut into dice, and very thin slices of black truffle
arranged to form a border. Season with highly-seasoned
mayonnaise sauce with cream.

2014— SALADE MONTE=CRISTO

Take equal quantities of lobster-meat, cooked truffles, and
potatoes and hard-boiled eggs in dice, and arrange them in
distinct heaps.

In their midst place the very white heart of a lettuce. Season
with mayonnaise sauce with mustard, and add some chopped
tarragon.

2015— SALADE NI9OISE

Take equal quantities of French beans, potato dice, and
quartered tomatoes. Decorate with capers, small, stoned
olives, and anchovy fillets.

Season with oil and vinegar.

2016— SALADE OPERA

Take equal quantities of white chicken meat, very red tongue,
celery-sticks cut julienne-iashion, and a julienne of truffles.
Arrange these constituents in very regular heaps, and in the
middle of them set a heap of asparagus-heads. Decorate with
a border consisting of roundels of cocks' kidneys and roundels
of gherkins, laid alternately.

Season with very thin mayonnaise sauce.

2017— SALADE PARISIENNE

Clothe a Charlotte-mould with very clear jelly, and garnish
its bottom and sides with thin collops of spiny-lobster's tail
decked with truffles. Fill the mould with a vegetable salad
(No. 201 1) combined with a quarter of its volume of lobster or
spiny-lobster remains, cut into dice, and cohered by means of
a cleared ma}'onnaise.

Leave to set in the cool, and, when about to serve, turn out
on a napkin.

2018— SALADE MASCOTTE

Take some green asparagus-heads, some hard-boiled lap-
wings' eggs, some sliced cocks' kidneys, some slices of truffle,
and some crayfishes' tails.

Decorate according to fancy, making use of the ingredients
of the salad for the purpose.

Season with mustard sauce with cream.

622 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

2019— SALADE RACHEL

Take equal quantities of sticks of celery, raw artichoke-
bottoms, truffles, potatoes, and asparagus-heads, all, except
the latter, being cut jiiZt^nne-fashion.

Slightly cohere the salad with mayonnaise sauce.

2020— SALADE R^QENCE

Take equal quantities of sliced cocks' kidneys, shavings of
raw truffles, asparagus-heads, and celery cut lengthwise into
extremely thin strips.

Season strongly with oil and lemon juice.

2021— SALADE RUSSE

Take equal quantities of carrots, potatoes, French beans,
peas, truffles, capers, gherkins, sliced and cooked mushrooms,
lobster meat, and lean ham — ^all cut julienne-iashion, and add
some anchovy fillets.

Cohere the whole with mayonnaise sauce; dish, and de-
corate with some of the ingredients of the salad, together with
beetroot and caviare.

2022— SALADE SICILIENNE

Take equal quantities of celeriac, russet apples, tomatoes,
and artichoke-bottoms — all four cut into dice.
Season with oil and lemon juice.

2023— SALADE TREDERN

Take twenty-four crayfishes' tails, cooked as for bisque, and
cut lengthwise; twenty-four oysters (cleared of their beards),
poached in lemon juice; and three tablespoonfuls of asparagus-
heads. The three constituents should have barely cooled.
Complete with fine shavings of raw truffles.

Season with condimented mayonnaise sauce, combined with
a pur^e made from the crayfishes' carcasses, pounded with two
tablespoonfuls of fresh cream.

2024— SALADE DE TRUFFES

Cut some raw, peeled truffles into very thin shavings.

Season with a sauce consisting of hard-boiled egg-yolks,
seasoned with salt and freshly-ground pepper, and finished
with oil and lemon juice.

2025— SALADE DE TRUFFES BLANCHES

Cut some raw, white, Piedmont truffles into thin shavings.

Season with a sauce consisting of hard-boiled egg-yolks
seasoned with salt and pepper, and finished with mustard, oil,
and vinegar.

LES ROTIS ET LES SALADES 623

2026— SALADE VICTORIA

Take equal quantities of spiny-lobster trimmings, asparagus-
heads, truffles, and cucumbers — all cut into dice.

Season with a mayonnaise sauce, combined with the spiny-
lobster's creamy parts and a pur6e of coral.

2027— SALADE WALDORF

Take equal quantities of russet apples and celeriac, both
cut into dice, and halved and peeled walnuts, soaked in fresh
water for one-quarter hour, and well drained.

Season with clear mayonnaise sauce.

CHAPTER XVIII

VEGETABLES AND FARINACEOUS PRODUCTS

The preparatory treatment of vegetables — parboiling and
braising, &c. — having been explained in Chapter X., as also
the preparation of purees, creams, and vegetable garnishes,
it is now only necessary to deal with each vegetable separately.

Artichokes (Artichauts)
2028— ARTICHAUTS A LA BARIQOULE

Take some very fresh and tender artichokes. After having
trimmed their tops, take off the outermost leaves; parboil the
artichokes; remove their hearts, and completely clear them of
their chokes. Season them inside, and fill them with a pre-
paration of Duxelles (No. 224), combined with a quarter of
its weight of fresh, grated, fat bacon, and as much butter.

Wrap the stuffed artichokes in thin slices of bacon ; string
them, and set them in a saucepan prepared for braising. Braise
them gently with white wine, and cook them well.

When about to serve them, remove the string and the bacon,
and dish them.

Strain the braising-liquor, and clear it of grease; thicken it
with the necessary quantity of good half-glaze sauce; reduce
it sufficiently to produce only a very little sauce, and pour the
latter over the artichokes.

2029— C(EURS D'ARTICHAUTS A LA CLAMART

Select some very tender small artichokes, and trim them.

Set them in a buttered cocotte, with a small quartered
carrot and three tablespoonfuls of freshly-shelled peas to each
artichoke, add a large faggot and a little water, and salt
moderately. Cover and cook gently in a steamer. When about
to serve, withdraw the faggot, and slightly thicken the liquor
with a little manied butter.

Serve the preparation in the cocotte.

VEGETABLES AND FARINACEOUS PRODUCTS 625

2030— ARTICHOKES WITH DIVERS SAUCES

Cut the artichokes evenly to within two-thirds of their
height; trim them all round; string them, and plunge them
into slightly-salted boiling water. Cook them rather quickly;
drain them well, just before serving them, and remove the
string.

Dish on a napkin, and send a butter, a Hollandaise, or a
mousseline sauce, &c., at the same time.

When artichokes, cooked in this way, have to be served
cold, remove their chokes, dish them on a napkin, and send
a Vinaigrette sauce separately.

2031— ARTICHAUTS A LA PROVEN^ALE

Select some very small Provencal artichokes ; trim them, and
put them in an earthenware stewpan containing some very hot
oil. Season with salt and pepper; cover the stewpan, and
leave to cook for about ten minutes.

Then add, for each twelve artichokes, one pint of very tender,
freshly-shelled peas, and a coarse julienne of one lettuce.

Cover once more, and cook gently without moistening. The
moisture of the peas and the lettuce suffices for the moistening,
provided the stewpan be well covered and the fire be not too
fierce — both of which conditions are necessary to prevent
evaporation on too large a scale.

2032— QUARTIERS D'ARTICHAUTS A L'lTALIENNE

Turn, trim, and quarter some fair-sized artichokes. Trim
the quarters, removing the chokes therefrom; rub them with
a piece of lemon to prevent their blackening ; plunge them one
by one into fresh water; parboil and drain them. This done,
set them in a sautdpan on a litter of aromatics, as for braising ;
make them sweat in the oven for seven or eight minutes;
moisten with white wine; reduce the latter; and moisten again,
to within half their height, with brown stock. Cook gently
in the oven until the quarters are very tender.

When about to serve, set them in a vegetable dish ; strain
the cooking-liquor; clear it of grease, and reduce it; add an
Italian sauce to it, and pour this sauce over the quartered

o r 1 1 p fi Q Irp c

2033— FONDS D'ARTICHAUTS FARCIS

Select some medium-sized artichokes; clear them of their
leaves and their chokes; trim their bottoms, rub them with
lemon to prevent their blackening, and cook them in a Blanc
(No. 167), keeping them somewhat firm.

After having drained them, stuff them with a little Duxelles,

s s

626 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

prepared according to No. 224. Arrange them on a buttered
dish; sprinkle the Duxelles with fine raspings and a little
melted butter, and set in a hot oven for a gratiri to form.
Serve a Madeira sauce at the same time

2034— FONDS D'ARTICHAUTS A LA FLORENTINE

Prepare the artichoke-bottoms as above.

Meanwhile fry a large, chopped onion in butter; add
thereto two-thirds lb. of parboiled and chopped spinach per
twelve artichokes. Stir over an open fire, that all moisture
may evaporate, and add salt and pepper, a piece of crushed
garlic the size of a pea, a tablespoonful of anchovy pur^e, and
two tablespoonfuls of Veloutt^. Cook gently for ten minutes.

Stuff the artichoke-bottoms with this preparation; arrange
them on a buttered dish; coat with Mornay sauce; sprinkle
with Gruy^re, cut brunoise-fashion, and set to glaze in a
fierce oven.

Upon withdrawing the dish from the oven, sprinkle the
artichoke-bottoms with a few drops of melted anchovy butter.

2035— PONDS D'ARTICHAUTS AUX POINTES D'ASPERQES

Prepare the artichoke-bottoms as above ; stew them in butter,
and garnish them with asparagus-heads, cohered with cream,
and heaped in pyramid-form.

Lay them on a buttered dish ; coat with Mornay sauce, and
set to glaze quickly.

2036— FONDS D'ARTICHAUTS SAUTES

Remove the leaves and the chokes from the artichokes, trim
the bottoms, and slice them up raw. Season them with salt
and pepper; toss them in butter; set them in a vegetable-dish,
and sprinkle them with herbs.

2037— PUREE OU CRfeME D'ARTICHAUTS

Take some very tender artichokes; trim and turn the
bottoms, and half-cook them, keeping them very white. Com-
plete their cooking in butter, and rub them through a fine sieve,
together with the butter used in cooking.

Put the pur^e thus obtained in a saucepan, and add to it
the half of its bulk of mashed, very smooth, and creamy
potatoes.

Finish the puree with a little fresh and a little hazel-nut
butter, the latter being used to increase the flavour of the arti-
chokes.

VEGETABLES AND FARINACEOUS PRODUCTS 627

2038— ASPARAGUS (Asperges)

The best-known varieties of asparagus in England are : —

1. The Lauris asparagus, which is par excellence the early-
season kind.

2. The green, Parisian asparagus, which is very small, and
of which the most diminutive sticks, also called sprew, serve
for garnishes.

3. The Argenteuil asparagus — very much in demand while
it is in season.

4. English asparagus, which is somewhat delicate in
quality, but inclined to be small. During the season there
are, besides, several other kinds of asparagus imported from
Spain or France, which, though not equal to the four kinds
above mentioned, may nevertheless be used for soups or gar-
nishes instead of asparagus-heads or sprew.

Asparagus should be had as fresh as possible; it should
be cleaned with care, quickly washed, tied into faggots, and
cooked in plenty of salted water. Certain kinds, the flavour of
which is somewhat bitter, should be transferred to other water
as soon as cooked, with the view of reducing their bitterness.

Asparagus is dished on special silver drainers, or on
napkins.

2039— ASPERGES A LA FLAMANDE

According to Flemish custom, asparagus is served with one
hot, hard-boiled half-egg, and one oz. of melted butter per
person. The egg-yolk is crushed, seasoned, and finished with
the butter by the consumers themselves. This accompaniment
may also be prepared beforehand and served in a sauceboat.

2040— ASPERGES AU QRATIN

Dish the asparagus in rows, and coat the heads of each
row with a little Mornay sauce. When all are dished, two-
thirds cover the bunch with a band of buttered paper, and
coat the uncovered portion with Mornay sauce. Sprinkle with
grated Parmesan ; glaze quickly at the salamander, remove the
paper, and serve at once.

2041— ASPERGES A LA MILANAISE

Having thoroughly drained the asparagus, set it on a
long, buttered dish sprinkled with grated Parmesan; arrange
it in successive rows, each of which sprinkle in the region
of the heads with grated Parmesan. When about to serve,
cover the cheese-powdered parts copiously with nut-brown
butter, and set to glaze slightly at the salamander.

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62 8 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

2042— ASPERQES A LA POLONAISE

Thoroughly drain the asparagus; set it on a long dish,
in rows, and besprinkle the heads with hard-boiled egg-yolk
and chopped parsley, mixed. When about to serve, cover the
heads with nut-brown butter, combined with one oz. of very
fresh and fine bread-crumbs per four oz. of butter.

2043— ASPARAGUS WITH VARIOUS SAUCES

Butter sauce, Hollandaise, Mousseline, and Maltese sauces
are the most usual adjuncts to asparagus. B^arnaise sauce
without herbs is also served occasionally, likewise melted butter.

When eaten cold, it may be served with oil and vinegar
or a mayonnaise — more particularly a Chantilly mayonnaise,
i.e., one to which beaten cream has been added.

2044— SPREW WITH BUTTER (Pointes d'Asperges)

Sprew or green asparagus is chiefly used for garnishing or
as a garnishing ingredient, but it may also be served as a
vegetable with perfect propriety. Cut the heads into two-inch
lengths, and put them together in faggots.

Cut what remains of them into bits the size of peas. After
having washed the latter, plunge them into boiling salted
water, and cook them quickly, that they may keep green.

This done, thoroughly drain them ; let their moisture
evaporate by tossing them over the fire; cohere them with
butter, away from the fire, and dish them in a timbale with the
faggots on top.

They are usually served in small patty crusts, or in small
tartlet crusts, with a few sprew tops on each small patty or
tartlet.

2045— POINTES D" ASPERQES A LA CREME

Prepare them, and cook them in salted water as above.

Their cohesion with cream is in pursuance of the procedure
common to other vegetables similarly prepared, and they are
served like those of No. 2044.

Egg-Plant (Aubergines)
2046— AUBERGINES A L'EGYPTIENNE

Cut them into two lengthwise; trim them round the edges;
cisel the middle of each with the view of facilitating the cook-
ing process, and cook them.

Drain them; remove the pulp from their insides, and set
the shells on a buttered gratin dish.

This done, chop up the withdrawn pulp ; add thereto a little

VEGETABLES AND FARINACEOUS PRODUCTS 629

chopped onion cooked in oil, and the same quantity of very
lean, chopped, and cooked mutton as there is egg-plant pulp.
Fill the egg-plant shells with this preparation ; sprinkle
with a few drops of oil, and set in the oven for fifteen minutes.
On withdrawing the dish from the oven, set on each egg-plant
a few roundels of tomato, tossed in oil ; sprinkle with chopped
parsley, and serve.

2047— AUBERGINES AU GRATIN

Fry the egg-plants as above; empty them, chop up their
pulps, and add to it an equal weight of dry Duxelles (No.
223). Garnish the shells with this preparation, set them on a
gratin dish, sprinkle them with raspings and a few drops of
oil, and cause the gratin to form.

Surround the egg-plants with a border of light half-glaze
sauce when serving.

2048— AUBERGINES FRITES

Cut the egg-plants into thin roundels; season and dredge
them, and fry them in smoking oil. Dish them on a napkin,
and serve immediately, that they may be eaten crisp. If they
wait at all, they soften, and thereby lose quality.

2049— AUBERGINES A LA PROVEN^ALE

Proceed as for No. 2047, but replace the Duxelles by
tomatoes tossed in oil and flavoured with a little garlic.

Set the gratin to form in the same way, and surround the
egg-plants with a border of tomato sauce when taking them out
of the oven.

2050— AUBERGINES SOUFFL^ES

Cut some tine egg-plants into two ; cisel them, and fry them
in the usual way; remove the pulp from their insides, and
set the shells on a buttered gratin dish. Finely chop the with-
drawn pulp, and mix therewith an equal quantity of reduced
B6chamel sauce, combined with grated Parmesan.

Add some white of egg beaten to a stiff froth, allowing as
much of it as for an ordinary souffle.

Garnish the egg-plant shells with this preparation, and cook
in a moderate oven, as for ordinary souffle. On withdrawing
the dish from the oven, serve instantly.

2051— AUBERGINES A LA TURQUE

Peel the egg-plants and cut them, each lengthwise, into
six slices.

Season, dredge, and fry these slices in oil ; pair them off, and
join them together by means of a very firm preparation of raw

630 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

egg-yolks and grated, fresh cheese. When about to serve, dip
them into this batter, and fry them in smoking oil.

Dish on a napkin with very green fried parsley.

These stuffed slices of egg-plant may be treated a I'anglaise
instead of with batter.

2052— CARDOONS (Cardons)

Treatment and Cooking Process, — After having suppressed
the green outside leaf-stalks, detach the white ones all round,
and cut these into three-inch lengths. Peel these lengths, rub
them with lemon, that they may not blacken, and throw them,
one by one, into fresh acidulated water.

Prepare the heart of the cardoon in the same way, after
having withdrawn the fibrous parts, and cook the whole in
a Blanc (No. 167), with one lb. of chopped veal fat, sprinkled
over its surface, that the cardoon may be kept from blackening
by exposure to the air.

Cook gently for about one and one-half hours.

2053— CARDONS AU PARMESAN

After having well drained the sections, build them into a
pyramid in successive layers. Sprinkle each row with a few
drops of good half-glaze sauce, and with grated Parmesan.
Cover the whole with the same sauce; sprinkle with grated
Parmesan, and set to glaze quickly.

2054— CARDONS A LA MORNAY

Proceed exactly as above, but replace half-glaze sauce by
Mornay sauce. Glaze quickly, and serve immediately.

2055— CARDONS A LA MILANAISE

Proceed as for " Asperges h la Milanaise " (No. 2041).

2056— CARDONS WITH VARIOUS SAUCES

They may be served either with gravy, or Half-glaze, Cream,
Hollandaise, Mousseline, Italienne, or Bordelaise sauces.

The sauce is either poured over them or served separately.

If the sauce be poured over the cardoons, they are dished in
a timbale ; if the sauce be sent separately, they may be served
on a silver drainer, like asparagus.

2057— CARDONS A LA MOELLE

Dish the cardoons in a pyramid on a round dish ; cover them
with a marrow sauce (No. 45), and surround them with very
small puff-paste patties garnished with poached marrow dice.
Or dish the cardoons in a timbale, and set thereon the heart

VEGETABLES AND FARINACEOUS PRODUCTS 631

cut into roundels and arranged in a crown, with a slice of
poached marrow on each roundel of heart.
Cover the whole with marrow sauce.

2058— CCEUR DE CARDON AUX FINES HERBES

Flaving cooked the heart of the cardoon, trim it all round
so as to give it the cylindrical shape, and cut it laterally into
roundels one-third inch thick.

Roll these roundels in some pale, thin, buttered meat glaze,
combined with chopped herbs. Prepared in this way, the heart
of a cardoon constitutes an excellent garnish for Tournedos
and sauted chickens.

Carrots (Carottes)

2059— CAROTTES QLACEES POUR GARNITURES

New carrots are not parboiled; they are turned, whole,
halved, or quartered, according to their size, and then trimmed.
If old, they should be turned to the shape of elongated olives,
and parboiled before being set to cook.

Put the carrots in a saucepan with enough water to cover
them well, one-half oz. of salt, one oz. of sugar, and two oz.
of butter per pint of water.

Cook until the water has almost entirely evaporated, so that
the reduction may have the consistence of a syrup. Saute the
carrots in this reduction, that they may be covered with a
brilliant coat.

Whatever be the ultimate purpose for which the carrots are
intended, they should be prepared in this way.

2060— CAROTTES A LA CRfeME

Prepare the carrots as above, and, when the moistening is
reduced to the consistence of a syrup, cover them with boiling
cream.

Sufficiently reduce the latter, and dish in a timbale.

2061— CAROTTES A LA VICHY

Slice the carrots, and, if they be old, parboil them.

Treat them exactly after the manner of the " Glazed
Carrots" of No. 2059; <iish them in a timbale, and sprinkle
them with chopped parsley.

2062— PUREE DE CAROTTES

Slice the carrots, and cook them in slightly-salted water, with
sugar and butter, as for " Glazed Carrots," and a quarter of
their weight of rice. Drain them as soon as they are cooked;
rub them through a fine sieve; transfer the pur6e to a saut^-

632 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

pan, and dry it over a fierce fire, together with three oz, of butter
per lb. of pur^e.

Now add a sufficient quantity of either milk or consomm^ to
give it the consistence of an ordinary pur^e. Dish in a timbale
with triangular croutons of bread-crumbs, fried in butter at the
last moment.

This purde is very commonly served as a garnish with
braised pieces of veal.

2063— FLAN AUX CAROTTES

This is served either as a vegetable or a sweet.

Line a flawn ring with good, short paste (No. 2358) ; coat
the inside of the flawn with a round piece of paper, and fill it
with rice or split peas. Bake it without letting it brown; re-
move the split peas or the rice, as also the paper, and garnish
the flawn crust with a slightly sugared purde of carrots. Cover
this purde with half-discs of carrot cooked as for No. 2059, and
kept unbroken. Coat with the cooking-liquor of the carrots
reduced to a syrup, and put the flawn in the oven for five
minutes.

2064— CELERY (Celeri)

Celery for braising should be non-fibrous, white, and very
tender. Cut the sticks till they measure only eight inches from
their roots; remove the green leaves all round; trim the root;
wash with great care, parboil for one-quarter hour, and cool.

This done, braise them after recipe No. 275. When they
are cooked, cut each stick into three pieces, and double up each
section before dishing and serving.

2065— VARIOUS PREPARATIONS OF CELERY

The recipes given for cardoons may be applied to celery.
On referring to the respective recipes, therefore, celery may be
prepared : —

Au Parmesan, Sauce Mornay, a la Milanaise, Italienne,
Hollandaise, with gravy, &c.

2066— PUREE DE CELERI

Slice the celery; parboil it, and stew it, until it is quite
cooked, in a little very fat consommd.

Drain as soon as cooked; rub through a sieve, adding the
while the cooking-liquor cleared of all grease ; thicken the purde
with about one quart of very white and firm potato purde;
heat ; add butter at the last moment, and dish in a timbale.

VEGETABLES AND FARINACEOUS PRODUCTS 633

2067— PUR^E DE C^LERI-RAVE (Celeriac)
Peel the celeriac; cut it into sections, and cook it in salted
water.

Drain and rub it through tammy, adding plain-boiled,
quartered potatoes the while in the proportion of one-third of
the weight of the pur^e of celeriac.

Put the pur^e in a sautepan ; add to it three oz. of butter
per lb. ; dry it over a fierce fire, and bring it to its normal con-
sistence by means of milk. When about to serve, add butter,
away from the fire, and dish in a timbale.

CilPES

Those cepes which are barely opened or not opened at all
are not parboiled. Contrariwise, those which are open should
be washed, parboiled, and stewed in butter, after having been
well dried,

2068— CfePES A LA BORDELAISE

Collop the cepes; season them with salt and pepper; put
them into very hot oil, and toss them until they are thoroughly
frizzled. Almost at the last moment add, per one-half lb. of
cepes, one oz. of cepe stalks, which should have been put
aside and chopped up, one teaspoonful of chopped shallots,
and a tablespoonful of bread-crumbs — the object of which is to
absorb any excess of oil, once the cepes have been served.

Toss the whole together for a few minutes; dish in a tim-
bale, and complete with a few drops of lemon juice and some
chopped parsley.

2o6g— CfePES A LA CREME

Collop the cepes, and stew them in butter with a dessert-
spoonful of chopped onion per one-half lb. of cepes; the onion
should have been cooked in butter, without colouration.

When they are stewed, drain them ; cover them with boiling
cream, and boil gently until the latter is completely reduced.
At the last moment finish with a little thin cream, and dish in
a timbale.

2070— CEPES A LA PROVEN9ALE

Proceed as for No. 2068, but substitute for the shallots some
chopped onion and a mite of crushed garlic.

Dish in a timbale, and complete with a few drops of lemon
juice and some chopped parsley.

2071— CfePES A LA ROSSINI

Proceed as for No. 2069, and add to the cepes one-third of
their weight of thickly-sliced, raw truffles, stewed at the same

634 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

time as the former. When about to serve, finish with a little
pale melted meat glaze, and dish in a timbale.

Mushrooms (Champignons)

Cookery includes under this head only the white Parisian
mushroom and the meadow mushroom, which is the kind so
commonly used in England.

The other kinds are always identified by special and proper
terms.

2072— CHAMPIGNONS A LA CRfeME

Proceed as described under No. 2069.

2073— CHAMPIGNONS SAUTES

After having washed the mushrooms, dried, and ciseled
them, and seasoned them with salt and pepper, toss them with
butter in a frying-pan over a fierce fire. Sprinkle them with
chopped parsley at the last moment, and dish them in a timbale.

2074— CHAMPIGNONS GRILLES

Take some large Parisian or meadow mushrooms. Care-
fully peel them ; season them ; smear them with oil, by means
of a brush, and grill them gently.

Set them on a round dish, and garnish their midst with
well-softened, Maitre-d' Hotel butter.

2075— CHAMPIGNONS FARCIS

Select some fine, medium-sized mushrooms; suppress their
stalks; wash them, and dry them well. Set them on a dish;
season them ; sprinkle them with a few drops of oil ; put them
in the oven for five minutes, and garnish their midst with
Duxelles (No. 224) shaped like a dome, and thickened or not
with bread-crumbs.

Sprinkle the surface with fine raspings and a few drops of
oil or melted butter, and set the gratin to form in a somewhat
fierce oven.

2076— FLAN GRILLE AUX CHAMPIGNONS

Line a buttered flawn-mould with good lining paste (No.
2358).

Garnish it with very fresh and barely opened English mush-
rooms, tossed in butter with a little chopped onion, cohered
with cream, and cooled.

Moisten the edges of the flawn-mould, and deck it with
criss-cross strips of short paste, as for a latticed apple-flawn.

Gild the lattice work ; bake the flawn in a very hot oven, and
serve it the moment it is withdrawn.

VEGETABLES AND FARINACEOUS PRODUCTS 635

2077— TARTELETTES QRILL^ES AUX CHAMPIGNONS

These tartlets constitute an excellent and beautiful garnish,
more particularly for Tournedos and Noisettes. Proceed ex-
actly as for No. 2076, but use tartlet moulds the size of which
is determined by the dimensions of the piece or preparation
which they are to accompany.

2078— TURNED AND QROOVED MUSHROOMS

FOR GARNISHING

Take some very fresh mushrooms; wash and drain them
quickly.

Suppress their stalks flush with their heads ; turn or groove
the latter with the point of a small knife, and throw them, one
by one, into a boiling liquor prepared as follows : —

For two lbs. of mushrooms, put one-sixth pint of water,
one-third oz. of salt, two oz. of butter, and the juice of one
and one-half lemons, in a saucepan. Boil ; add the mushrooms,
and cook for five minutes. Transfer to a bowl immediately,
and cover with a piece of buttered paper.

2079— PUREE DE CHAMPIGNONS

Clean, wash, and dry two lbs. of mushrooms. Quickly peel
them, and rub them through a sieve. Put this purde of raw
mushrooms into a saut6pan with two-thirds pint of reduced
Bechamel sauce, and one-sixth pint of cream. Season with salt,
white pepper, and nutmeg; reduce over an open fire for a few-
minutes, and finish, away from the fire, with three oz. of best
butter.

2080— MORELS (Morilles)

The Spring mushroom or Morel is the one most preferred
by connoisseurs. There are two kinds of morels — the pale and
the brown kind — both excellent, though some prefer the former
to the latter, and vice versi.

In spite of what connoisseurs may say regarding the error
of washing morels, I advocate the operation, and urge the
reader to effect it carefully, and without omitting to open out
the alveolate parts, so as to wash away any sand particles that
may be lodged therein.

The Cooking of Morels. — If they be small, leave them
whole; if large, halve or quarter them. After having properly
drained them, put them in a saucepan with two oz. of butter,
the juice of a lemon, and a pinch of salt and another of pepper
per lb. of morels. Boil, and then stew for ten or twelve minutes.
Never forget that the vegetable juices produced by the morels
should be reduced and added to their accompanying sauce.

636 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

2081— MORILLES A LA CREME

Proceed as for Cepes and Mushrooms with Cream.

2082— MORILLES FARCIES

Select some large morels, and wash them well.

Suppress their stems ; chop them up, and prepare them like
a Duxelles (No. 223).

Add to this Duxelles half of its bulk of very smooth sausage-
meat.

Open the morels on one side; fill them with the prepared
forcemeat, and set them on a buttered dish, opened side nether-
most.

Sprinkle with fine raspings, and use plenty of melted butter ;
cook for twenty minutes in a moderate oven, and serve the
dish as it stands.

2083— MORILLES A LA POULETTE

Cook them as described under No. 2080, and add them to a
Poulette sauce (No. loi), together with their cooking-liquor
reduced.

Dish in a timbale, and sprinkle with a pinch of chopped
parsley.

2084— MORILLES SAUT^ES

After having thoroughly washed the morels, dry them well
in a towel, and halve or quarter them according to their size.

Season them with salt and pepper, and saute them with
butter in an omelet-pan, over a sufficiently fierce fire, to avoid
the exudation of their vegetable moisture. Dish them in a
timbale; squeeze a few drops of lemon juice over them, and
sprinkle them with chopped parsley.

2085— TOURTE DE MORILLES

Cook the morels as explained under No. 2080, and drain
them well.

Reduce their cooking-liquor by a quarter, and add to it
two tablespoonfuls of very thick cream and one oz. of butter
per lb. of morels.

Heat this sauce without boiling it, toss the morels in it, and
set them in a tourte crust, or merely in the centre of a crown of
puff -paste, lying on a dish.

Morels prepared in this way may also be served in a Vol-au-
vent crust (No. 2390).

2086— MOUSSERONS, ORONQES, QIROLES

These varieties of esculent fungi are not much liked in
England.

VEGETABLES AND FARINACEOUS PRODUCTS 637

The best way to prepare them is to toss them quickly in
butter.

2087— BRIONNE (Chow-rchow)

This excellent vegetable, which has only become known quite
recently, is beginning to be appreciated by connoisseurs. It is
in season from the end of October to the end of March — that
is to say, at a time when cucumbers and vegetable marrows are
over. It greatly resembles these last-named vegetables, and
is prepared like them, while the recipes given for cardoons may
also be applied to it.

2088— CHICORY, ENDIVE AND BELGIAN CHICORY
(Chicoree^Prisee, Escarole, Endive)

Three kinds of chicory are used for cooking, viz : —

1. Curled chicory, improperly termed "Endive" in
England.

2. Flemish chicory, which is genuine endive in its primitive
state, i.e., grown in the open air. It greatly resembles Escarole.

3. Brussels chicory, or the Belgian kind; obtained from
cultivating the root of Flemish chicory in the dark.

This last kind is quite different from the first two, both with
regard to its quality and its culinary treatment, and it will be
dealt with later under the name of " Endive."

2089— CHICORI6E A LA CRfeME

Parboil the chicory for ten minutes in plenty of boiling
water. Cool it ; press the water out of it, and chop it up.

Cohere it with four and one-half oz. of pale roux per two
lbs. of chicory; moisten with one quart of consomm6; season
with salt and a pinch of powdered sugar, and braise in the
oven, under cover, for one and one-half hours.

Upon withdrawing it from the oven, transfer it to another
saucepan ; add three-fifths pint of cream and two oz. of butter,
and dish in a timbale.

2090— PAIN DE CHICOREE

Braise the chicory as described above.

Upon withdrawing it from the oven, mix with it (per lb.)
five stiffly-beaten eggs; put it into an even, buttered mould,
and set to poach in a bain-marie.

Before unmoulding the "loaf," let it rest awhile, that the
middle may settle. Turn out just before serving, and cover
with a cream sauce.

2091— PUREE DE CHICOREE

Braise the chicory, and rub it through a sieve. Mix it with
one-third of its bulk of smooth mashed potatoes with cream ;
heat; add butter away from the fire, and dish in a timbale.

638 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

2092— SOUFFLE DE CHICOR^E

Braise about one-half lb. of chicory, keeping it somewhat
stiff, and rub it through a sieve. Add to it the yolks of three
eggs, also two oz. of grated Parmesan and the whites of three
eggs, beaten to a stiff froth.

Dish in a buttered timbale ; sprinkle with grated Parmesan,
and cook after the manner of an ordinary souffle.

N.B. — This souffle of chicory may also be cooked in small
cases, and it . makes an excellent garnish for large pieces of
veal or ham.

2093— CHICORIEE A LA FLAMANDE

Cut the chicory into two-inch lengths; parboil it; cool it,
and then proceed for the rest of the operation as described
under No. 2089— the only difference being that it is not
chopped.

2094— ENDIVES OR BRUSSELS CHICORY

Whatever be the purpose for which they are intended, en-
dives should always be cooked preparatively as follows : —

After having washed and cleaned them, put them in a well-
tinned saucepan containing (per three lbs. of endives) a liquor
prepared from the juice of half a lemon, a pinch of salt, one oz.
of butter, and one-fifth pint of water. Cover the saucepan;
boil quickly, and complete the cooking on the side of the fire
for from thirty to thirty-five minutes.

Endives may thus be served plain, and constitute a very
favourite vegetable or garnish. They may accompany all
Relev^s of butcher's meat.

Some cardoon recipes may also be applied to them, more
particularly a. la Mornay, a la Crdme, and a la Milanaise— all
of which suit them admirably.

2095— CABBAGES (Choux)

From the culinary standpoint, cabbages may be divided into
seven classes, as follows : —

1 . White cabbages : used almost solely in the preparation
of sauerkraut.

2. Red cabbages : used as a vegetable, as a hors-d'oeuvre,
or as a condiment.

3. Round-headed or Savoy cabbages: specially suited to
braising and the English method of cooking.

4. Scotch kale and spring cabbages : always prepared in
the English fashion.

5. Cauliflowers and broccoli : the flower of these is most

VEGETABLES AND FARINACEOUS PRODUCTS 639

commonly used, but the leaves are cooked in the English way
when they are tender.

6. Brussels sprouts.

7. Kohlrabi : the roots of these may be dished as turnips,
and the leaves cooked in the English way, provided they be
young and tender.

3096— WHITE CABBAGES (Choux Blancs)

In an extreme case, these cabbages may be braised like the
green Savoys, but they are usually too firm, and they are there-
fore only used in the preparation of sauerkraut.

2097— SAUERKRAUT (Choucroute)

If the sauerkraut be somewhat old, set it to soak in cold
water for a few hours. It is best, however, to avoid this
measure, if possible, and to use only fresh sauerkraut.

When about to cook it, drain it, if it has been soaked, and
press all the water out of it. Then pull it to pieces in such
a way as to leave no massed leaves; season it with salt and
pepper, and put it into a braising-pan lined with slices of bacon.
Add, for ten lbs. of sauerkraut, three quartered carrots, three
medium-sized onions, each stuck with a clove, a large faggot,
three oz. of juniper berries and one-half oz. of peppercorns
contained in a canvas bag, six oz. of goose dripping or lard,
and one lb. of blanched breast of bacon, the latter to be with-
drawn after one hour's cooking.

Moisten, just enough to cover, with white consomm^ ; cover
with slices of bacon; boil, and then cook in the oven for five
hours with lid on.

To serve Sauerkraut. — Withdraw the vegetables, the faggot,
and the juniper berries, and set the sauerkraut irj a timbale,
after having well drained it.

Surround it with thin slices of ham, rectangles of bacon,
and some poached Frankfort or Strasburg sausages.

Red Cabbages (Choux Rouges)

2098— CHOUX ROUGES A LA FLAMANDE

Quarter the cabbages, suppress the outside leaves and the
stumps, and cut the trimmed leaves into a fine julienne. Season
with salt, pepper, and nutmeg; sprinkle with vinegar, and put
this julienne into a well-buttered earthenware cocotte. Cover
and cook in a moderate oven.

When the cooking is three-parts done, add four peeled and
quartered russet apples and a tablespoonful of moist or pow-
dered sugar.

640 GUIDE to MODERN COOKERY

Take note that the cooking must be gentle from start to
finish, and that the only moistening should be thte vinegar.

2099— MARINADED RED CABBAGES FOR HORS-D'OEUVRE

Cut the cabbages into a small julienne as above, and put
them into a bowl or deep dish. Sprinkle with table salt, and
leave to macerate for two days, stirring frequently the while.

Then drain, and put them into a pot with garlic cloves,
peppercorns, and one bay leaf. Cover with raw vinegar, or
the latter boiled and cooled, and leave to marinade for a day
or two.

This marinaded cabbage forms an excellent adjunct to boiled
beef.

Choux Verts Pommes (Savoy Cabbages)
2100— BRAISED CABBAGE

Quarter the cabbage ; parboil and cool it.

Defoliate the quarters; suppress the outside leaves and the
midribs of the remaining leaves ; season with salt and pepper,
and put the cabbage in a saucepan garnished with slices of
bacon, and containing one quartered carrot, one onion stuck
with a garlic clove, one faggot, two-thirds pint of consomm^,
and three tablespoonfuls of stock fat per two lbs. of cabbage.
Cover with slices of bacon ; boil, and then braise gently for two
hours.

2101— CHOU A L'ANGLAISE

Plainly boil or steam the cabbage. Press all the water out
of it, between two plates, and cut it into lozenges or squares.

2102— CHOU FARCI

Take a medium-sized round-headed or Savoy cabbage;
parboil it; cool it, and suppress its stump. Slightly open out
its leaves, and insert between them raw or cooked mince-
meat, combined with chopped onion and parsley, and highly
seasoned. Reconstruct the cabbage, pressing it closely to-
gether; wrap it in slices of bacon; string it, and braise it
gently for three hours with stock and stock fat.

When about to serve, drain the cabbage ; remove the string
and the slices of bacon ; set it on a dish, and cover it with a
few tablespoonfuls of the braising-liquor, cleared of all grease,
reduced, and thickened with some half-glaze sauce.

Send what remains of the braising-liquor separately.

N.B. — The preparation is improved if the mince-meat with
which the cabbage is stuffed be combined with a quarter of its
bulk of pilaff rice and the same quantity of foie-gras fat.

VEGETABLES AND FARINACEOUS PRODUCTS 641

3103— SOU-FASSUM PROVENCAL

Parboil and cool the cabbage as above; remove the outer
large leaves, and set them on a net.

Upon this litter of cabbage leaves lay the following pro-
ducts, mixed : —

The inside leaves of the cabbage, chopped up and seasoned ;
one-half lb. of ciseled and blanched white of a leek; one and
three-quarter lbs. of sausage-meat; six oz. of lean bacon, cut
into dice and frizzled; one chopped onion, fried in butter; two
chopped tomatoes; a crushed clove of garlic; three oz. of
blanched rice and four oz. of fresh, young peas.

Gather up the ends of the net, and close it in such a way as
to reconstruct the cabbage.

Cook it in mutton broth or in ordinary stock for three and
one-half or four hours.

Serve the sou-fassum plain, on a round dish.

3104— CABBAGES FOR GARNISH.— A

Parboil, cool, and thoroughly drain the cabbage. Remove
as many large leaves as there are balls of stuffed cabbage re-
quired, and, if the leaves be too small, use two for each ball.

Chop up the remains of the cabbage ; season them with salt
and pepper ; put a small portion of them on each of the leaves ;
close the latter in the shape of balls, and set them one by one
in a saut^pan.

Then proceed, for the cooking, as directed under " Braised
Cabbage."

3 1 05— CABBAGES FOR GARNISH.— B

Prepare the cabbage as above ; insert into the centre of each
ball a portion of smooth pork forcemeat, the size of a pigeon's
egg, and braise in the same way.

3106— CABBAGES FOR GARNISH.— C

Parboil the necessary quantity of cabbage leaves, in accord-
ance with the number of balls required. Cool them ; spread
them out; garnish the middle of each with one tablespoonful
of pilaff rice, mixed with foie-gras pur6e, and close up the
leaves to form small packets.

Braise as in the case of No. 2104.

3107— SCOTCH KALE (Chouifrise),^SPRING CABBAGE (Choux
de Printemps), BROCCOLI LEAVES, TURNIP-TOPS

These various kinds of greens are prepared in the English
way, as described above, or they may be prepared with butter,
like Brussels sprouts. The two above-mentioned modes of
preparation are the only ones that suit them.

T T

642 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

3io8— CAULIFLOWER AND BROCCOLI
(Chou-fleur et Broccoli)

Broccoli differs from cauliflower in the colour of its flower
and the arrangement of the parts of the latter. In the
broccoli the flower is of a deep violet. English broccoli never
reach the size of those grown in the South of France.

Many do not even grow to a head, while their flowers — the
size of hazel-nuts — are scattered among the interstices of the
surrounding leaves.

Cauliflowers and large broccoli allow of the same treatment.
2109— CHOU-FLEUR A LA CRBME

Cut the cauliflowers into bunches; remove the small leaves
which are attached, and cook the cauliflower in salted water.

Thoroughly drain ; set the bunches in a timbale, reconstruct-
ing the cauliflower in so doing, or on a dish covered with a
folded napkin, and serve a cream sauce separately.

21 10— CHOU-FLEUR AU QRATIN

Having well drained the cauliflower, dry it in butter for a
few minutes; mould it in a bowl, and pour a few tablespoonfuls
of Mornay sauce into it.

Coat the bottom of a dish with the same sauce, and turn out
the cauliflower on the dish ; completely cover with Mornay
sauce ; sprinkle with grated cheese mixed with raspings ; bedew
with melted butter, and set the gratin to form.

21 1 1— CHOU-FLEUR A LA MILANAISE

Set the cauliflower on a buttered dish sprinkled with grated
cheese. Also sprinkle the cauliflower with cheese; add a few
pieces of butter, and set the gratin to form.

On taking the dish out of the oven, sprinkle the cauliflower
with nut-brown butter, and serve immediately.

21 13— CHOU-FLEUR A LA POLONAISE

Thoroughly drain the cauliflower, and set it on a buttered
dish.

Sprinkle it with chopped, hard-boiled egg-yolks and chopped
parsley, mixed. When about to serve, bedew with nut-brown
butter, in which one-half oz. of fine bread-crumbs (per three
oz. of butter) should have been fried.

21 13— CAULIFLOWER WITH VARIOUS SAUCES

Cook the cauliflower in salted water. Drain it thoroughly,
and set it in a timbale. Serve at the same time either a sauce-
boat of Melted Butter, a Butter, a HoUandaise, or a Mousseline
sauce, &c.

VEGETABLES AND FARINACEOUS PRODUCTS 643

21 14— PUREE DE CHOU-FLEUR dite A LA DUBARRY

Cook the cauliflower in salted water; drain it well; rub it
through tammy, and combine the resulting pur^e with one
quarter of its bulk of somewhat firm, mashed potatoes with
cream. Heat; add butter away from the fire, and dish in a
timbale.

Brussels Sprouts (Choux de Bruxelles)

211S— CHOUX DE BRUXELLES A L'ANQLAISE

Cook them in salted water; drain them well, and dish them
on a drainer or in a timbale.

21 16— CHOUX DE BRUXELLES A LA CR6ME

Cook the sprouts; drain them well without cooling them;
stew them in butter, and chop them up. Then combine them
with as much fresh cream as possible.

21 17— CHOUX DE BRUXELLES SAUTES

Cook them, and, after having thoroughly drained them,
throw them into an omelet-pan containing some very hot butter.
Toss them until they are nicely frizzled; dish them in a tim-
bale, and sprinkle them with chopped parsley.

21 18— CHOUX DE BRUXELLES AU BEURRE

Cook them, keeping them somewhat firm, and drain without
cooling them.

Put them into a saut^pan ; season them with salt and pepper ;
add two oz. of butter (per lb. of sprouts) cut into small pieces ;
cover, and stew in the oven for one-quarter hour.

2119— PUR^E DE CHOUX DE BRUXELLES dite FLAMANDE

Three-parts cook the sprouts ; drain them well without cool-
ing them, and complete their cooking by stewing them in
butter. Rub them through tammy, and add to the resulting
pur^e one-third of its bulk of mashed potatoes.

Heat, add butter away from the fire, and dish in a timbale.

2120— SEA KALE (Chou Marin)

This is one of the best and most delicate of English vege-
tables.

It is trimmed with great care, washed, and then tied into
bunches of from five to six plants, and these are plainly cooked
in salted water.

All cardoon recipes, and sauces given for asparagus, may
be applied to sea kale.

T T 2

644 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

2I2I— CUCIJMBER AND VEGETABLE MARROW
(Concombres et Courgettes)

Though of different shapes, these two vegetables allow of
almost the same treatment when they are cooked. They are
especially used as garnishes.

2123— CONCOMBRES A LA CREME

Peel, and cut the cucumber to shapes resembling olives ;
parboil and drain these pieces. This done, three-parts cook
them in butter; moisten with boiling cream, and finish the
cooking in reducing the cream. At the very last moment add
a little Bdchamel sauce with the view of slightly thickening the
preparation, and dish in a timbale.

2123— CONCOMBRES GLACES

After having shaped them like large garlic cloves, quickly
parboil them. This done, treat them as directed under
" Garottes glacees," and roll them sufficiently in their cooking-
liquor, reduced to the consistence of a thick syrup, to thoroughly
coat them with it.

2124— CONCOMBRES FARCIS.— /I

Cut the cucumbers into two-inch lengths ; peel, parboil, and
drain them. Then hollow them out to form small, round cases;
set them side by side in a saut^pan, and cook them in butter.
When they are three-parts cooked, fill them with a raw, chicken
forcemeat, effecting this operation by means of a piping-bag.
The forcemeat should be slightly moulded in the cucumber
cases.

Complete the cooking of the cucumber, gently, while poach-
ing the forcemeat.

2125— CONCOMBRES FARCIS.— B

Peel the cucumbers ; split them open lengthwise, and empty
them by means of a root-spoon. This done, parboil and drain
without cooling them.

Garnish each half-cucumber, level with the edges, with a
chicken forcemeat, prepared with frangipane, and combined
with a third of its weight of Duxelles. Reconstruct the
cucumbers by placing the halves one against the other; wrap
them each in a slice of bacon, and then in a piece of muslin,
and finally string them. This done, braise them in the usual
way. When they are cooked, remove their wrappings, and
cut them into roundels the thickness of which is determined by
the size of the piece of which they are the adjuncts.

VEGETABLES AND FARINACEOUS PRODUCTS 645

2126— STACHYS (Crosnes du Japon)

Whatever be their mode of preparation, stachys must be
cleaned, parboiled, and kept firm, and cooked in butter without
colouration.

2127— CROSNES A LACRfeME

After having parboiled the stachys and three-parts cooked
them in butter, moisten with boiling cream, and complete their
cooking while reducing the cream. Add a little thin, fresh
cream at the last moment, and dish in a timbale.

2128— CROSNES SAUTES AU BEURRE

After having parbbiled, drained, and dried the stachys, put
them in an omelet-pan containing some very hot butter, and
toss them over a fierce fire, until they are well frizzled. Dish
in a timbale, and sprinkle moderately with chopped parsley.

2129— CROSNES AU VELOUTE

Completely cook the stachys in salted water. Drain them,

and cohere them with the required quantity of Velout6 flavoured

with mushroom essence.

2130— CROQUETTES DE CROSNES

Having cooked the stachys in salted water, and kept them
somewhat firm,, thoroughly drain them and mix them with a
very reduced Allemande sauce, in the proportion of one-fifth
pint per lb. of stachys. Spread this preparation on a buttered
dish, and cool. Now cut this preparation into portions weigh-
ing about two oz. ; shape these portions like balls, pears, quoits,
or otherwise, dip them in beaten eggs, and roll them in very
fine bread-crumbs.

Plunge these croquettes into very hot fat five or six minutes
before serving ; drain them on a piece of linen ; salt moderately,
and dish on a napkin with very green, fried parsley.

2131— PUR^E DE CROSNES

Cook the stachys in salted water, keeping them somewhat
firm, and add thereto four oz. of quartered potatoes per lb. of
stachys.

As soon as they are cooked, drain the stachys and the

potatoes; rub them through a sieve, and dry the pur^e over a

very fierce fire. Add the necessary quantity of milk to bring

the pur^e to its proper consistence ; heat ; add butter away from

the fire, and dish in a timbale.

2132— SPINACH (Epinards)

Spinach should only be prepared at the last moment, if pos-
sible.

After having parboiled it in plenty of boiling salted water,

646 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

cool it, press out all its contained water, and, according to cir-
cumstances, either chop it up or rub it through a sieve.

If it has to be served with the leaves left whole, merely drain
it on a sieve, without either pressing or cooling it.

2133— EPINARDS A L'ANQLAISE

Cook it after having carefully shredded it; drain it well,
and dish in a timbale without cooling.

2134— 6PINARDS A LA CREME

Having chopped up or rubbed the spinach through a sieve,
put it into a saut^pan with two oz. of butter per lb., and dry it
over a fierce fire.

Now add the quarter of its bulk of cream sauce to it, and
simmer gently for ten minutes.

Dish in a timbale when about to serve, and sprinkle the
surface with fresh cream.

2135— EPINARDS AU QRATIN

Dry the spinach as above in three oz. of butter per lb., and
then, in the same proportion, add two and one-half oz. of grated
cheese.

Set on a buttered ^ratm-dish ; sprinkle copiously with
grated cheese and melted butter, and set the gratin to form in
a fierce oven.

2136— EPINARDS A LA VIROFLAY

Spread some large leaves of blanched spinach on a napkin,
and in the middle of each lay a subric, the substance of which
should have been combined with very small croutons of bread-
crumb fried in butter. Wrap the subrics in the spinach leaves ;
cover with Mornay sauce ; sprinkle with grated cheese and melted
butter, and set to glaze in a fierce oven.

2137— SUBRICS D'lgPINARDS

Dry the spinach in butter as described above, and add to it
per lb. of spinach (away from the fire) one-sixth pint of very
reduced Bdchamel sauce ; two tablespoonfuls of thick cream ;
one egg and the yolks of three, well beaten ; salt, pepper, and
nutmeg.

Make a sufficient quantity of clarified butter very hot in an
omelet-pan.

Take up some of the preparation of spinach by means of a
spoon, and let the contents of the latter drop (propelled by the
finger) into the butter. Proceed thus in the making of the
subrics, and take care that they do not touch. When a minute

VEGETABLES AND FARINACEOUS PRODUCTS 647

has elapsed, turn them over with a spatula or a fork, that their
other sides may colour.

Set on a dish or in a timbale, and serve a cream sauce
separately.

2138— CREPES AUX EPINARDS

Parboil some well-shredded spinach ; dry it in butter ; season
it, and add to it an equal quantity of Yorkshire-pudding paste
(No. 1943).

Cook this preparation in a small, well-buttered omelet-pan
or in deep tartlet-moulds.

N.B. — These spinach pancakes constitute an excellent gar-
nish for Relev^s of Beef, Veal, and Ham.

2139— SOUFFLE AUX EPINARDS

Make a composition after the directions given under No.
2092. Spread this composition in two or three layers, and set
on each of the latter a litter of well-cleaned and soaked anchovy
fillets, arranged to form a lattice. Finish with a layer of spinach
shaped like a dome, and set thereon two crossed rows of anchovy
fillets. Cook after the manner of an ordinary souffle.

2140— SOUFFLE AUX EPINARDS AUX TRUFFES

Proceed as directed in the preceding recipe, but substitute
anchovy fillets for some fine slices of truffle.

N.B. — Both these spinach souffles may be served either as
vegetables, in which case they are moulded in large timbales,
or as garnishes, when they are dished in small cassolettes of
appropriate size.

They are very delicate preparations, which may be varied
by watercress souffle — prepared in the same way.

2141— FEUILLES DE VIQNE FARCIES OU DOLMAS

(Stuffed Vine Leaves)

Provided the vine-leaves be very tender, they may serve in
the preparation of the following garnish : — Suppress their
stalks; parboil the leaves; drain them well, and arrange three
or four at a time in the form of a circular tray, in the centre
of which lay a tablespoonful of pilaff rice to which some foie-
gras pur^e has been added. This done, draw the ends of the
leaves over the rice, so as to enclose it and to form regular
balls of equal size.

Put these balls, well-pressed, one against the other in a
saut^pan, the bottom of which should be garnished with slices
of bacon ; cover with thin slices of bacon ; moisten just enough
to cover, with good consomm^ ; boil, and then braise gently.

648 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

2142— TUBEROUS FENNEL (Fenouil Tub6reux)

This vegetable is not very well known. in England, where it
is sold only by the leading merchants of early-season vege-
tables. It is prepared like the cardoons and the marrows.
2143— BROAD BEANS (Feves)

Broad beans should be shelled just before being cooked, and
it is quite the rule to peel them. Boil them in salted water
containing a bunch of savory, the size pf which should be in
proportion to the quantity of broad beans. When they are
cooked and drained, add the leaves of savory (chopped) to them.

2144— FfeVES AU BEURRE

Having well-drained and peeled the broad beans, toss them
over a fierce fire to dry them, and then finish them, away from
the fire, with three oz. of butter per lb. of beans.

2145— fEves a la crBme

After having dried and peeled the broad beans, cohere them
(per lb.) with three tablespoonfuls of thick, fresh cream.

2146— PURE E DE FEVES

Proceed exactly as for pur^e of peas. This pur^e con-
stitutes a very delicate garnish, which is particularly well suited
to ham.
2147— QOMBOS

This vegetable — so common in America and the East— is
only very rarely used in England, where, however, it is now
beginning to be better known.

There are two kinds of Gombos : the long and the round
kind. The latter is also called Bamia or Bamies. Both kinds are
prepared after the same recipes.

2148— QOMBOS A LA CREME

After having trimmed them, parboil them in salted water
and drain them. Then cook them in butter, and, just before
serving them, cohere them with a cream sauce.

2149— QOMBOS POUR QARNITURES

Parboil the gombos until they are two-thirds cooked. Drain
them well, and complete their cooking in the braising-liquor of
the piece they are to accompany.

If they are to garnish a poulet saute, complete their cooking
in some thin veal gravy.

2150— HOP SPROUTS (Jets de Houblon)

The eatable part is separated from the fibrous by breaking
off the ends of the sprouts, as in the case of asparagus or sprew.

VEGETABLES AND FARINACEOUS PRODUCTS 649

After having washed them in several waters, cook them in salted
water containing, per every quart, the juice of one half-lemon.
Hop sprouts may be prepared with butter, cream, velout^,
&c. When served as a vegetable, they are invariably accom-
panied by poached eggs, which are laid in a crown round them
and alternated by comb-shaped croutons fried in buttejr.

Haricot-Beans (Haricots Blancs)

2151— HARICOTS BLANCS A L'AMJ^RICAINE (Lima Beans)

Cook the beans as described under No. 274. But add to
the prescribed ingredients one-half lb. of lean bacon per pint
of dry beans.

When they are cooked and well drained, mix them with the
bacon cut into dice, and cohere them with some good tomato
sauce.

2152— HARICOTS BLANCS AU BEURRE

Having well drained the haricot-beans, season them with
salt and pepper and cohere them with two oz. of butter per lb.
of cooked beans. Dish in a timbale and sprinkle with chopped
parsley.

2153— HARICOTS BLANCS A LA BRETONNE

Drain them well and cohere them with a Bretonne sauce, in
the proportion of one-third pint of sauce per lb. of cooked
haricot-beans. Dish in a timbale with chopped parsley.

2154— PUR^E DE HARICOTS BLANCS dite SOISSONNAISE

Rub the haricot-beans through a sieve while they are burn-
ing-hot. Add to the pur^e (per lb. thereof) three oz. of butter;
dry it over a very fierce fire, and then add some milk to it, to
bring it to its proper consistence.

2155— FLAGEOLETS (Haricots Flageolets)

These beans are used more especially fresh ; but, when they
are out of season, recourse is often had to preserved or dried
flageolets.

They are prepared in the same way as haricot-beans. Their
purde, which is very delicate, is known under the name of
" Pur^e Musard," and it is particularly suitable for the gar-
nishing of mutton. It is also used as a thickening ingredient
in the pur^e of French beans, and nothing can equal it for the
purpose; for, nptonly is it an unctuous thickening medium, but
its flavour is peculiarly adapted to the throwing into relief of
that of the French beans.

650 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

2156— RED BEANS (Haricots Rougres)

Red beans are cooked in salted water with one-third lb. of
lean bacon, one pint of red wine, one carrot, one onion stuck
with a clove, and one faggot per quart of beans. The bacon
should be withdrawn as soon as cooked. These beans are
cohered by means of manied butter, and they are then mixed
with the bacon, which is cut into dice and frizzled in butter.

2157— FRENCH BEANS (Haricots Verts)

French beans are among the greatest vegetaible delicacies ;
but they have to be prepared with the utmost care.

Their quality is such that they are almost always good, in
spite of faulty preparation — so common in their case ; but, when
they are cooked with care, no other vegetable can surpass them
in perfection of flavour. They should be taken quite fresh, and
they should not be cooked too long. They are best when they
seem a little firm to the teeth, without, of course, being in the
least hard.

They must not bei cooled when cooked ; they should only be
sauted over the fire with the view of causing the evaporation of
their moisture!

After having seasoned them with salt and pepper, add to
them (per lb.) about three oz. of very fresh butter, cut into
small pieces; saute them so as to effect, their leason, and
straightway serve them.

Do not add chopped parsley to French beans, unless it be
very tender and gathered and chopped at the last moment.

2158— HARICOTS PANACHES

This consists of French beans and flageolets, in equal quan-
tities, cohered with butter.

2159— PUREE DE HARICOTS VERTS

Cook the French beans in salted water; drain them well, and
stew them in butter for eight or ten minutes. Rub them
through a fine sieve, and mix the resulting pur^e with half its
bulk of very creamy, flageolet pur6e.

Lettuces (Laitues)

2160— LAITUES BRAISEES AU JUS

After having parboiled, cooled, and pressed the water out
of them, tie them together in twos or threes, and braise them
as directed under No. 275. This done, cut them in two, unfold
the end of each half, and set them on a dish, in the form of a
crown ; alternating them with heart-shaped croutons fried in
butter. Or, merely dish them in a timbale.

VEGETABLES AND FARINACEOUS PRODUCTS 651

Coat them with the reduced braising-liquor combined with
some thickened veal gravy.

N.B. — Braised lettuces may also be stuffed after the manner
described under No. 2106.

2161— LAITUES A LA MOELLE
Braise and dish the lettuces as above.

Upon the turban of lettuces, set a crown of large slices of
poached marrow, and coat with a moderately thick buttered
gravy.

2162— LAITUES FARCIES
Parboil, cool, and press the lettuces.

This done, open them in the middle without touching their
stems, and garnish them with good forcemeat, combined with
half its bulk of dry Duxelles (No. 223). Reconstruct the let-
tuces; string them; braise them, and dish them as directed
under No. 2160.

2163— LAITUES FARCIES POUR GARNITURE
Proceed as directed under Nos. 2104 to 2106.

2164— LAITUES A LA CR6ME
Proceed as directed under No. 2089.

2165— SOUFFLE DE LAITUES
Proceed as directed under No. 2139.

Lentils (Lentilles)

Lentils are cooked as directed under the " preparation of
dry vegetables " (No. 274).

2166— LENTILLES AU BEURRE

Carefully drain the lentils; dry them by tossing them over
the lire, and cohere them with butter in the proportion of two
oz. of the latter per lb. of lentils.

Dish in a timbale, and sprinkle with a little chopped parsley.

2167— PURINE DE LENTILLES
Proceed as for the pur^e of haricot-beans.

2168— VERONIQUE (Laver)
As this vegetable is sold already cooked at English markets,
it is only necessary to add enough good Espagnole sauce to
it, when heating it, to make a properly consistent pur^e.

2169— MAIZE (Mais)

Take the maize when it is quite fresh and still milky, and

cook it either in steam or salted water; taking care to retain

the leaves on the ears. When cooked, the leaves are drawn

652 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

back so as to represent stalks, and the ears are bared if they
be served whole. This done, set the ears on a napkin, and
send a hors-d'oeuvre dish of fresh butter to the table with
them.

If the maize has to be grilled, put the ears on a grill in the
oven, and, when they have swollen and are of a golden colour,
withdraw the grains and set the latter on a napkin. Sometimes,
too, the ears are served whole.

When maize is served as an accompaniment, the grains are
separated from the stalk and cohered with butter or cream,
exactly like peas.

Failing fresh maize, excellent preserved kinds are to be
found on the market.

2170— SOUFFLE DE MAIS A LA CRBME

Cook the maize in water or steam ; rub it quickly through
tammy; put it into a saucepan with a small piece of butter, and
quickly dry it.

This done, add sufficient fresh cream to this pur^e to make a
somewhat soft paste. Thicken this paste with the yolks of three
eggs, per lb. of pur^e, and combine it with the whites of four
eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Mould and cook after the manner
of an ordinary souffle.

2171— SOUFFLE DE MAiS AU PAPRIKA

Before rubbing the maize through a sieve, add to it two
tablespoonfuls of chopped onion fried in butter, and a large
pinch of paprika per lb. of maize. Proceed for the rest of the
operation as in the case of No. 2170.

N.B. — These two souffles are served as a garnish and may
be cooked either in a tinibale or in small cassolettes. They
constitute excellent adjuncts to large, poached fowls.

2172— CHESTNUTS (Marrons)

Slightly split open the shell on the convex sides of the
nuts, and put them in the oven for from seven to eight minutes,
on a tray containing a little water, that they may be shelled with
ease.

Or, split them open in the same way ; put them in small
quantities at a time in a frying-basket, and plunge them into
very hot fat. Peel them while they are still quite hot.

2173— STEWED CHESTNUTS

As soon as they are peeled, cook them in enough consonlm^
to just cover them, and add half a stick of celery per lb. of
chestnuts.

VEGETABLES AND FARINACEOUS PRODUCTS 653

If they are intended for the stuffing of a goose or a turkey,
keep them somewhat firm,

2174— BRAISED AND GLAZED CHESTNUTS

Take some very large chestnuts, and dip them in hot fat in
order to peel them. Then set them in one layer, one against
the other in a saut^pan. If they were heaped, only a poor
result could be obtained.

Moisten them, just enough to cover, with strong veal stock,
and stir them as little as possible while they are cooking, so
as to avoid breaking them.

When they are three-parts cooked, reduce the moistening,
and gently roll the chestnuts in the glaze resulting from this
reduction, that they may be covered with a brilliant coating.

Chestnuts prepared in this way serve more particularly as
a garnish.

2175— PUREE DE MARRONS

Having thoroughly peeled the chestnuts, cook them in white
consomme, with a celery stalk as in the case of No. 2173, and
one-half oz. of sugar per lb. of chestnuts. Continue cooking
until they may be easily crushed; rub them through tammy,
and treat the puree as directed in the case of the preceding
ones.

2176— TURNIPS (Navets)

Whether served as vegetables or as a garnish, turnips are
prepared like carrots. They may, therefore, either be served
glazed, or " a la Creme," &c.

They may also be served stuffed, after the following re-
cipes : —

2177— STUFFED TURNIPS.— A

Take some round, medium-sized turnips, fairly equal in size.
Peel them, and, in so doing, shape them nicely ; then, by means
of a round fancy-cutter, cut them deeply at their base, pressing
the instrument into the pulp.

This done, thoroughly parboil and empty them.

With the withdrawn pulp, prepare a pur^e, to which add an
equal quantity of mashed potatoes. Garnish the turnips with
this pur^e, and shape the visible portion of the latter dome-
fashion.

Set the stuffed turnips in a saut^pan, and complete their
cooking in butter, taking care to baste them frequently.

2178— STUFFED TURNIPS.— B

Prepare the turnips as above; but stuff them with a pre-
paration of semolina cooked in consomm^ and combined with
grated Parmesan.

654 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

Complete the cooking as directed in the preceding recipe.

N.B. — Proceeding in the same way, turnips may be stuffed
with spinach, chicory, and even with farinaceous vegetables or
rice, kept very creamy. All these garnishes are at once sightly
and excellent.

2179— PUREE DE NAVETS (Turnip Puree)

Slice the turnips and cook them in a little butter, salt, sugar,
and the necessary amount of water. Rub through tammy, and
thicken the resulting puree with only just the required quantity
of very good mashed potatoes.

2180— TURNIP-TOPS

Young turnip-tops are very much liked in England as a
luncheon vegetable. They should be prepared like " Choux
verts cooked a I'anglaise,"

Onions (Qignons)
2181— STUFFED ONIONS

Take some medium-sized, mild, Spanish onions; cut them
at a point one-quarter of their height from the top, and parboil
them thoroughly.

Empty them, leaving only a wall one-third in. thick; chop
up the withdrawn parts, and mix them with an equal quantity
of Duxelles (No. 225).

Garnish the emptied onions with this preparation ; complete
their cooking by braising them, and glaze them at the last
moment, simultaneously with the formation of the gratin.

N.B. — Proceed in the same way for onions stuffed with
spinach, Rizotto, or semolina, &c., as suggested under Nos.
2177 and 2178.

Onions may also be garnished with a souffle preparation of
spinach, tomatoes, chicory, &c. Herein lies scope for a great
variety of excellent and uncommon garnishes.

2182— FRIED ONIONS

Cut them into roundels one-fifth in. thick; separate the rings;
season them with salt and pepper ; dredge them and fry them in
very hot oil.

Drain on a piece of linen and salt slightly.

Onions prepared in this way are used particularly as an
accompaniment.

2183— GLAZED ONIONS

For the preparation without colouration: Peel some small
onions of equal size without grazing them. Set them to cook

VEGETABLES AND FARINACEOUS PRODUCTS 655

in enough white consomm6 to almost cover them, and two oz.
of butter per pint of consomm6.

At the last moment roll them in their cooking-liquor, reduced
to a glaze.

For the -preparation with colouration : Cook the onions very
gently in butter, with a pinch of powdered sugar, so that the
cooking and the colouring may be effected together.

2184— PUR^E D'OIQNONS, dite SOUBISE

See No. 104, in the chapter on sauces.

2185— SORREL (Oseille)

Having shredded the sorrel and washed it in several waters,
set it to cook gently in a little water. This done, thoroughly
drain it on a sieve and mix it with a pale roux, consisting of
two oz. of butter and one oz. of flour. Add one and one-quarter
pints of consomm6, salt, and a pinch of sugar to it, and braise
it in the oven for two hours.

Then rub it through tammy; thicken it with the yolks of
six eggs or three whole eggs beaten to a stiff froth and strained
through a strainer. Heat, and finish with one-sixth pint of
cream and five oz, of butter.

Dish in a timbale, and sprinkle with strong, veal stock.

2186— OXALIS

-Cook this in boiling salted water after having well cleaned
and washed it. It may then be prepared "k la Creme,"
stufi^ed, or " au Gratin."

Oxalis pur^e is called Pur6e Br^silienne, and is prepared in
the same way as turnip pur^e.

3187— SWEET POTATOES

Sweet potatoes are generally served, baked in their skins,
and accompanied by fresh butter. They may also be prepared
according to the majority of potato-recipes, especially the
following : —

Sautees, Gratinees, Mashed, Duchesse, &c.

They may also be fried; but, in that case, they should be
served the moment they are ready, for they soften very quickly.

Finally, they may be prepared souffle-fashion, after the
directions given under " Souffle de Pommes de Terre."

2188— PEAS (Petits Pois)

Whatever be the treatment to which peas are to be subjected,
always take them very green and freshly gathered, and shell
them only at the last minute. Peas are one of the vegetables
most prone to lose their quality through want of care. If pre-

656 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

pared with pains, the delicacy of their flavour is incomparable ;
but the slightest neglect on the part of the operator renders
them savourless and commonplace.

2189— PETITS POIS A L'ANQLAISE

Cook them quickly in salted boiling water; drain them, and
dry them by tossing them over a fierce iire. Dish them in a
timbale, and serve some pats of very fresh butter separately.

2190— PETITS POIS AU BEURRE

As soon as the peas are cooked, drain them and toss them
over a fierce fire, to dry. Then season them with a pinch of
powdered sugar, and cohere them, away from the fire, with
butter, in the proportion of three oz. per pint of peas.

2191— PETITS POIS A LA BONNE-FEMME

Fry twelve oz. of small onions and four oz. of breast of
bacon, cut into dice and blanched in butter; add one-half oz. of
flour to the latter; cook the roux for a moment; moisten with
one-half pint of consomm6 and boil.

Put one quart of freshly-shelled peas into this sauce; add
the onions and the bacon, together with a bunch of parsley;
and cook, reducing the sauce to half in so doing.

2192— PETITS POIS A LA FLAMANDE

Prepare one-half lb. of new carrots as though they were to
be glazed.

When half-cooked, add two-thirds pint of freshly-shelled
peas to them. Complete the cooking of the two vegetables
together, and, at the last moment, add butter away from the
fire.

2193— PETITS POIS A LA FRANCAISE

Take a saucepan, of a size a little larger than would be neces-
sary to just hold the following products, and put into it one
quart of freshly-shelled peas; a faggot containing the heart of
a lettuce, two sprays of parsley, and two of chervil ; twelve
small onions, four oz. of butter, one-third oz. of salt, and two-
thirds oz. of loaf-sugar. Mix the whole together until it forms
a compact mass, and place in the cool until ready for cooking.
Add three tablespoonfuls of water, when about to cook the peas,
and cook gently with lid on.

When about to serve, withdraw the faggot ; cisel the lettuce ;
add it to the peas, and cohere the whole with butter, away from
the fire.

N.B. — Raw, ciseled lettuce may be added to the peas; but,
as various tastes must be allowed for, it is better to insert the

VEGETABLES AND FARINACEOUS PRODUCTS 657

lettuce whole, and to mix it with the peas afterwards, if it be
so desired. The lettuce may also be quartered and laid on the
peas without being mixed with them.

2194— PETITS POIS A LA MENTHE

Cook the peas in salted water, together with a bunch of fresh
mint.

Then prepare them in the English way or " au Beurre," and
lay a few parboiled mint leaves upon them when serving.

2195— PUREE DE POIS FRAIS, dite SAINT=QERMAIN

Cook the peas with just enough boiling water to cover them,
and season it with one-half oz. of salt, and one-sixth oz. of sugar
per quart. Add a lettuce and a few parsley leaves (tied to-
gether). When the peas are cooked, drain them; and reduce
their cooking-liquor while they are being rubbed through a
sieve.

Work the pur^e with four oz. of fresh butter per quart, and
finally add to it the cooking-liquor, reduced almost to a glaze.

2196— MOULDED PEASE PUR6E FOR GARNISH

Prepare the pur^e as above ; but keep, it a little creamier. Mix
with it, per quart, two whole eggs and the yolks of three, beaten
and strained through muslin. With this preparation, fill some
dariole- or baba-moulds, according to the piece for which the
timbales are intended, and poach them in a bain-marie for from
twenty to twenty-five minutes.

Remember to let them stand for five minutes before un-
moulding them.

N.B. — Timbales of haricot-beans, flageolets, or lentil puree,
are prepared similarly.

2197— CAPSICUM OR PIMENTOS (Poivrons doux)

The capsicums used in cookery are of various kinds : the
Chilian and Cayenne kinds (Chili and. Cayenne peppers) which
have a strong, burning taste, are only used as condiments.

The large or mild capsicums, green,''red, or yellow, are used
more particularly as garnishes; Although the difference in
their Coloui-ation is acconipanied by a difference of quality, they
are not easily distinguished in this respect; and, although the
large, red Spanish capsicums are the best, the other varieties
may be treated in the' same way as the former.

Whatever be the kind of capsicums used, either grill or
scald them in order to skin them, and clear them of their seeds.
According to the purpose they are hitended for, they are either
cut ^p or left whole.

u u

658 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

2198— PIMENTOS FARCIS

For this purpose take some small, green, carrot-shaped cap-
sicums.

Remove their stems, after having skinned them ; empty them,
and half-fill them with half-cooked, pilaff rice.

Then set them in a saut^pan, and carefully braise them with
excellent stock.
2199— CAPSICUMS FOR GARNISHING

For this purpose, the large red, Spanish capsicums are best.

Braise them when they are peeled, and, when cooked, cut
them up as the requirements may suggest.

2200— PUR^E DE PIMENTOS

Braise some large, red capsicums, with two-thirds of their
weight of rice. When the whole is well cooked, rub it through
a sieve, and add butter to the extent of two oz. per quart of the
preparation.

N.B. — This puree is particularly well suited to poached fowls
and white meats, and it is well to keep it thin.

220I— POTATOES (Pommes de Terre)

Ordinary potatoes are rarely of good quality in England,
and they do not lend themselves as well as certain Continental
varieties do to the various culinary uses to which this valuable
tuber may be put.

The very best kinds of potato are almost unknown in Eng-
land, and the Dutch and Vitelotte potatoes have to be imported.

2202— POMMES DE TERRE A L'ANQLAISE

Turn the potatoes to the shape of large garlic cloves, and
cook them in salted water or steam. They accompany more
especially boiled fish.

The English method is to cook them without salt.

2203— POMMES DE TERRE ANNA

Cut them to the shape of cylinders; slice these into thin
roundels; wash them, and dry them in a piece of linen.

Set these roundels in circles on the bottom of the mould
proper to this potato preparation, or in a well-buttered thick-
bottomed saut^pan ; let them overlap one another, and let the
lay of each circle be reversed.

Season ; spread a coat of butter upon the first layer, and
proceed in the same way with a second layer.

Make five or six layers in this way, seasoning and spread-
ing butter over each.

Cover the utensil ; cook in a good oven fpr thirty minuteg ;

VEGETABLES AND FARINACEOUS PRODUCTS 659

turn the whole over, if necessary, to equalise the colouring;
turn out upon a saucepan-lid, to drain away the butter, and then
tilt the whole on to a dish,

2204— POMMES ANNA FOR GARNISHING
Either dariole- or baba-moulds may be used for this purpose ;
but they should be tinned copper ones if possible. After having
thoroughly buttered them, garnish them with thin roundels of
potato, cut to the diameter of the moulds, seasoned, and set
one upon the other. Set the moulds on a tray containing
enough very hot fat to reach half-way up to their brims, and
cook in a very hot oven for twenty-five minutes.
Turn out just before serving.

2205— POMMES DE TERRE BERNY

Add chopped truffles to some " Croquette " paste (No. 219),
in the proportion of two oz. of the former to one lb. of the
latter; and divide up this preparation into two-oz. portions.
Mould these to shapes resembling apricots ; dip them in beaten
eggs (No. 174), and roll them in almonds cut into the thinnest
possible splinters. Plunge the potato balls into hot fat five or
six minutes before serving.

2206— POMMES DE TERRE A LA BOULANOfiRE

This preparation has been given in various recipes (see No.
1307).

2207— POMMES DE TERRE BYRON

Prepare the required amount of " Pommes Macaire " (No.
2228), and cook in butter in a small frying-pan. Dish ; sprinkle
copiously with cream and grated cheese, and set to glaze
quickly.

2208— POMMES DE TERRE CHAtEAU

Turn them to the shape of large olives; season them; cook
them gently in clarified butter, that they may be golden and
very soft; and, just before serving, sprinkle them moderately
with chopped parsley.

2209— POMMES DE TERRE A LA CRfeME

Vitelotte or new kidney potatoes are needed for this prepara-
tion.

Cook them in salted water ; peel them as soon as this is done,
and cut them into rather thick roundels. Put them in a saut^-
pan; moisten, enough to cover them, with boiling cream;
season, and reduce the cream.

At the last moment, finish with raw cream.

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66o GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

23 lo— CROQUETTES DE POMMES DE TERRE

Prepare the necessary quantity of " Croquette " paste* (No.
219), and divide it into two-oz. portions. Roll tiiese to the
shape of corks or pears ; treat them a I'anglaise, and put them
into very hot fat, five or six minutes before serving.

22 n— CROQUETTES DE POMMES DE TERRE A;LA DAUPHINE

Take the required amount of " Pommes Dauphine " pre-
paration (No. 220); divide it into two-oz. portions; mould these
to the shape of corks; treat them a I'anglaise, and fry them like
ordinary croquettes.

2212— POMMES DE TERRE A LA DUCHESSE

Use the same preparation as for No. 221 1, Mould the por-
tions to the shape of small cottage-brioches, gaieties or small
loaves, or shape them by means of the piping-bag. Arrange
them on a buttered tray; gild them with beaten egg, and colour
them in a fierce oven for seven or eight minutes before serving
them.

2313— POMMES DE TERRE DUCHESSE AU CHESTER

Use the same preparation as for No. 221 1, and combine it
with two oz. of grated Chester per lb. Mould it to the shape
of very small gaieties; set these portions on a buttered tray;
gild them with beaten eggs; cover each with a thin slice of
Chester, and set them in the oven for seven or eight minutes
before serving.

2214— POMMES DE TERRE FONDANTES

Cut the potatoes to the shape of large, elongated olives, and
let each weigh about three oz. Gently cook them in butter, in
a sautepan, and take care to turn them over.

When they are cooked, withdraw them, so as to slightly
flatten them with a fork without breaking them. Drain away
their butter; return them to the sautepan with three oz. of fresh
butter per every two lbs. of their weight, and cook them with
lid on until they have entirely absorbed the butter.

2215— POMMES DE TERRE EN ALLUMETTES

Trim the potatoes square, and then cut them into small
rods, of one-fifth in. sides. Put them in hot fat, and let them
dry well before draining them.

3316— POMMES DE TERRE CHATOUILLARD

Trim the potatoes, and cut them into long even ribbons one-
eighth in. thick. Treat these ribbons like " Pommes soufil^es "
(see No. 2221).

VEGETABLES AND FARINACEOUS PRODUCTS 66 1

2317— CHIPPED POTATOES

Cut the potatoes into thin roundels, by means of a special
plane; put them into cold water for ten minutes; drain them;
dry them in linen, and fry them, keeping them very crisp.
Serve them cold or hot, with game roasted in the English way.

2218— POMMES DE TERRE COLLERETTE

Turn the potatoes to the shape of corks, and cut them with a
special knife which grooves them. Treat them like chipped
potatoes.

2219— POMMES DE TERRE PAILLES

Cut the potatoes into a long, thin julienne ; wash them and
thoroujghly dry them on a piece of linen.

Put them into hot fat; and, at the end of a few minutes,
drain them in a frying-basket. Just before serving them,
plunge them afresh into smoking fat, that they may be very
crisp; drain them on a piece of linen^ and salt them moderately.

2220— POMMES DE TERRE PONT-NEUF

Trim the potatoes square, and cut them into rods of half-inch
sides. Plunge them into hot fat, and leave them there until
they are crisp outside and creamy in.

This preparation represents the generic type of fried
potatoes.

2221— POMMES DE TERRE SOUFFL^ES

Trim the potatoes square, and carefully cut them into slices
one-eighth inch thick. Wash them in cold water; thoroughly
dry them, . and put them into moderately hot fat. As soon as
the potatoes are in it, gradually heat the fat until they are
cooked — which they are known to be when they rise to the
surfa,ce of the frying fat.

Drain thern in the frying-basket, and at once immerse them
in fresh and hotter fat. This final immersion effects the puffing,
which results from the sudden contact with intense heat.

Leave the potatoes to dry ; drain them on a stretched piece
of linen; salt them moderately, and dish them.

2222— QRATIN DE POMMES DE TERRE A LA DAUPHINOISE

Finely slice two lbs. of fair-sized Dutch potatoes. Put them
in a basin, and add thereto salt, pepper, grated nutmeg, one
beaten Qgg, one and one-half pints of boiled milk, and four oz.
of freshj grated Gruyere.

Thoroughly mix up the whole.

Pour this preparation into earthenware dishes, rubbed with
garlic and well buttered; copiously sprinkle with grated

662 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

Gruyfere; add a few pieces of butter, and cook in a moderate
oven for from forty to forty-five minutes.

2223— POMMES DE TERRE A LA HONGROISE

Fry four oz. of chopped onion in butter, together with a
coffeespoonful of paprika. Add two peeled, pressed, and sliced
tomatoes ; two lbs. of potatoes, cut into somewhat thick roundels,
and moisten, just enough to cover, with consomm^. Cook,
while almost entirely reducing the moistening, and sprinkle with
chopped parsley at the last moment.

2224— POMMES DE TERRE QRATINEES

This preparation may be made in two ways as follows : —

(i) Make a smooth potato pur^e ; this done, put it into a deep,
buttered ^raiin-dish; smooth its surface; sprinkle the latter with
grated cheese mixed with fine raspings; bedew with melted
butter, and set the gratin to form in a fierce oven.

(2) Bake some fine, well-washed, Dutch potatoes in the oven.
As soon as they are cooked, open them lengthwise; withdraw
their pulp ; rub the latter through a sieve while it is still quite
hot, and finish it after the manner of an ordinary pur^e.

Fill the half-shells with pur^e ; sprinkle the latter with grated
cheese and raspings; lay the half-shells on a tray, and set the
gratin to form as above.

On taking the potatoes out of the oven, dish them on a
napkin, and serve them immediately.

2225— POMMES DE TERRE AU LARD

Frizzle in butter one-half lb. of breast of salted pork, cut into
dice and blanched, and twelve small onions. Drain the bacon
and the onions; mix one oz. of flour with the butter; brown for
a few minutes, and moisten with one and one-quarter pints of
consomm^. Season with a pinch of pepper, and add two lbs.
of medium-sized, quartered and well-trimmed potatoes, the
bacon and the onions, and a faggot. Cover and cook gently.

Dish in a timbale, and sprinkle moderately with chopped
parsley.

2226— POMMES DE TERRE LORETTE

Add some grated cheese to the preparation for " Pommes
Dauphine," in the proportion of one oz. of the former per lb. of
the latter*

Divide up this mixture into one and one-half oz. portions;
mould these to the shape of crescents, and dredge them mode-
rately.

VEGETABLES AND FARINACEOUS PRODUCTS 663

Plunge these crescents into very hot fat about six minutes
before serving.

2227— POMMES DE TERRE A LA LYONNAISE

Cut some peeled and plain-boiled potatoes into roundels, and
toss these in butter in a frying-pan. Likewise toss some sliced
onions in butter, the quantity of the former measuring one-
fourth of that of the potatoes. When the onions are of a nice
golden colour, add them to the sauted potatoes; season with
salt and pepper; saute the two products together for a few
minutes, that they may mix thoroughly, and dish them in a
timbale with chopped parsley.

2228— POMMES DE TERRE MACAIRE

Bake some Dutch potatoes in the oven. As soon as they
are done, empty them and collect their pulp on a dish ; season
it with salt and pepper, and work it with a fork; adding to it,
the while, one and one-half oz. of butter per lb.

Spread this preparation in the form of a galette on the
bottom of an omelet-pan containing some very hot, clarified
butter, and brown it well on both sides.

2229— POMMES DE TERRE MAIRE

Prepare these exactly like " Pommes k la Cr^me."

2230— POMMES DE TERRE A LA MAITRE-D' HOTEL

Cook some medium-sized Dutch potatoes in salted water ;
peel them ; cut them into roundels while they are still quite hot,
and cover them with boiling milk.

Season them with salt and white pepper ; completely reduce
the milk, and dish them in a timbale with chopped parsley.

2231— POMMES DE TERRE MARQUISE

Mix some very reduced and very red tomato pur^e with the
preparation for " Pommes Duchesse," in the proportion of three
tablespoonfuls of the former per lb. of the latter.

Set this preparation on buttered trays (by means of a piping-
bag fitted with a large, grooved pipe) in shapes resembling
half-eggs.

Gild them slightly with beaten eggs, and set them in a some-
what hot oven seven or eight minutes before serving.

2232— POMMES DE TERRE A LA MENTHE

Cook some fair-sized new potatoes in the English way, and
add a bunch of mint to them. Dish them in a timbale, and set
a mint-leaf (from the bunch) upon each potato.

664 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

2233— POMMES DE TERRE MIREILLE

Cut some medium-sized, raw potatoes into roundels. Season
them and saute them in butter. When they are ready, add to
them, per lb., four oz. of sliced artichoke-bottoms, tossed in
butter, and one and one-half oz. of truffle slices.

Saute the whole so as to ensure a complete mixture, and
dish in a timbale.

2234— POMMES DE TERRE MIRETTE

Cut some raw potatoes into a julienne one-eighth inch wide,
and cook them in butter, keeping them very creamy. Add to
them, per lb., two oz. of a julienne of truffles and three table-
spoonfuls of melted meat glaze.

Mix; dish in a timbale; sprinkle with grated Parmesan and
melted butter, and set to glaze quickly.

2235— POMMES DE TERRE MOUSSELINE

Prepare a fiawn-crust, baked without colouration.

Meanwhile, bake a few Dutch potatoes in the oven ; with-
draw their pulp ; season it with salt and white pepper, and work
it over the fire with four oz. of butter and the yolks of two eggs
per lb. of its weight. Add one-sixth pint of whisked cream, and
set the preparation in the crust, shaping it like a dome. Deco-
rate by means of a piping-bag, fitted with a grooved pipe, with
some of the preparation which should have been put aside ;
sprinkle with melted butter, and set to glaze quickly.

2236— POMMES DE TERRE NOISETTES

Cut the potatoes, by means of a round spoon-cutter, into
pieces the size of hazel-nuts. Season and cook them in butter,
and take care to keep them nicely golden and creamy.

2237— POMMES DE TERRE PARISIENNE

Prepare some " Pommes Noisettes " as above ; but cut them
a little smaller. When they are cooked, roll them in melted
meat glaze, and sprinkle them with chopped parsley.

2238— POMMES DE TERRE PARMESANE

Proceed as directed under "Pommes au Chester"
(No. 2213), but substitute Parmesan for the latter.

2239— POMMES DE TERRE PERSILLEES

Cook the potatoes in the English way, that is to say, boil
them plainly; drain them well, and roll them in melted butter
and chopped parsley.

VEGETABLES AND FARINACEOUS PRODUCTS 665

3340— POMMES DE TERRE ROBERT

Prepare a composition of " Pomme Macaire," and add
thereto, per lb., three eggs and a large pinch of chopped chives.
Cook in the frying-pan as for " Pomme Macaire."

2241— POMMES DE TERRE A LA ROXELANE

Bake six fine Dutch potatoes in the oven. Withdraw the
pulp from their insides, and work it, together with one-third lb.
of butter and four egg-yolks, and enough fresh cream to thin it.
Complete with the whites of two eggs, beaten to a stiff froth.

Set this preparation in small timbales, made from brioches
the knobs of which have been removed, and the under halves of
which have been emptied of all crumb. Sprinkle with chopped
truffle, and bake in a mild oven as for a souffle.

2242— POMMES DE TERRE A LA SAVOYARDE

Proceed as for No. 2222 ; but replace the milk by some con-
somm^.

2243— POMMES DE TERRE A LA SAINT- FLORENTIN

Prepare some " Pommes Croquettes " paste (No. 219).
Combine therewith (per lb.) two oz. of chopped, lean ham.
Roll the portions into the shape of corks; dip them in beaten
eggs, and roll them in vermicelli. This done, flatten so as to
give them a rectangular shape, and fry them in very hot fat.

2244— POMMES DE TERRE SCHNEIDER

Proceed as directed under No. 2230; but for the milk sub-
stitute some consomm^. Reduce in the same way, and finish
with butter, melted meat glaze, and chopped parsley.

2245— POMMES DE TERRE SUZETTE

Peel some fine, Dutch potatoes, and turn them to the shape
of eggs. Cut them flat at one end that they may stand upright,
and bake them on a tray in the oven.

Open them like a boiled egg; put aside the pieces thus cut
off, and withdraw the pulp from their insides. Season this pulp,
and work it; adding to it the while, per lb., two oz. of butter,
two egg-yolks, a few tablespoonfuls of thick cream, and a little
salpicon of the white of a chicken, tongue, truffles, and mush-
rooms. Fill the potato-shells with this preparation; readjust
the covers, and set them in the oven for ten minutes.

On withdrawing them fxom the oven, set the potatoes on a
dish, and glaze them with melted butter.

666 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

2246— POMMES DE TERRE VOISIN

Prepare these exactly like " Pommes Anna," but sprinkle
each layer of potato-roundels with grated cheese. The cooking
is the same.
2247— POMMES NANA (For Garnishing:)

Cut the potatoes into a julienne ; season them, and mould
them by heaping them into well-buttered, daWoZe-moulds. Cook
them, like " Pommes Anna" (for garnishing), on a tray con-
taining some very hot fat.

On taking them out of the oven, turn them out and sprinkle
them with Chdteau sauce.

2248— MASHED POTATOES

Peel and quarter some Dutch potatoes, and quickly cook
them in salted water. When they feel soft to the touch, drain
them ; rub them through a sieve, and work the pur6e vigorously
with three oz. of butter per lb. of potatoes. Then add, little by
little, about one-half pint of boiling milk, in order to bring the
pur^e to the required consistence. Heat without boiling, and
serve.

Remember that mashed potatoes should be only just cooked,
and that if they be allowed to wait they lose all their quality.

2249— QUENELLES DE POMMES DE TERRE

Prepare a composition as for " Pommes Duchesse," and add
thereto (per two lbs.) three whole eggs and one-third lb. of
flour. Divide up the preparation into one and one-half oz.
portions ; mould these to the shape of corks or quoits, or mould
them by means of a spoon, and set them in a buttered saut^pan.
Poach them in salted water; drain them; set them on a buttered
dish sprinkled with grated cheese; dredge with grated cheese;
sprinkle with melted butter, and set the gratin to form.

On taking the dish out of the oven, sprinkle the quenelles
with nut-brown butter.

2250— SOUFFLE DE POMMES DE TERRE

Prepare a pint of mashed potatoes with cream ; add thereto
the raw yolks of three eggs and their whites beaten to a stiff
froth. Set in a buttered soujfle saucepan, or in small porcelain
cases, and cook like an ordinary souffle.

Rice (Riz)
2251— RIZ AU BLANC (For Fowls and Eggs)

Wash one-half lb. of Carolina rice; put it into a saucepan;
cover it with plenty of cold water; salt it, and parboil it for
one-quarter hour.

VEGETABLES AND FARINACEOUS PRODUCTS 667

This done, drain it and put it into a saut^pan with two and
one-half oz. of butter cut into small pieces. Mix with a fork;
cover, and place in a moderate oven for fifteen minutes.

2252— RIZ AU GRAS

Parboil one-half lb. of Carolina rice; drain it; fry it in butter,
and moisten it with twice as much white and rather fat con-
somm^ as would be needed just to cover it. Set to boil, and then
cook it gently in- the oven for fifteen minutes.

2253— RIZ A LA QRECQUE

Prepare some " Pilaff " rice. Add to it, per lb. of its weight
when raw, one half-onion, chopped and fried in butter, to-
gether with two oz. of fat sausage-meat, divided into small
portions. Add two oz. of ciseled lettuce; cook the whole, and
complete with one-quarter pint of peas, cooked " ^ la Fran-
9aise," and one and one-half oz. of red capsicums cut into dice.

This garnish is mixed with the rice seven or eight minutes
before serving.

2254— RIZ A L'INDIENNE

Parboil one-half lb. of Patna rice in salted water, for fifteen
minutes; stirring it from time to time the while.

Drain it; wash it in several cold waters; lay it on a napkin,
and set the latter on a tray or on a sieve. Dry for fifteen
minutes in a steamer or in a very moderate oven.

2255— RIZ PILAFF

Fry one chopped half-onion and one-half lb. of Carolina rice
in two oz. of butter. Stir over the fire, until the rice is well
affected all over; moisten with one quart of white consomm6;
cover, and cook in a moderate oven for eighteen minutes.
Transfer it to another saucepan as soon as it is cooked.

2256— PILAFF RICE (For the Stuffing of Fowls)

Pilaff rice is frequently used in stuffing fowls.

For this purpose, when it is cooked, it is combined (per quart)
with a little cream, four oz. of foie-gras dice, and as much
truffle, also in dice. The rice should only be three-parts cooked
for stuffings; for it completes its cooking inside the bird. For
this reason the cream is added, that the rice may absorb it
while its cooking is being completed.

2257— RIZ PILAFF A LA TURQUE

Prepare some pilaff rice as directed under No. 2255, and,
while it is cooking, add to it enough saffron to make it of a
nice, golden colour. When cooked, add four oz. of peeled and
concussed tomatoes to it.

668 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

2258— RIZOTTO A LA PIEMONTAISE

Fry a medium-sized onion in butter, and add to it one-half
lb. of Piedmont rice. Put the rice on the side of the stove;
add some saffron to it and stir it until it is well saturated with
butter. Moisten the rice with about one quart of consomm^
per lb. The consomme should be added to the rice in seven
or eight instalments, and as fast as it becomes absorbed, a fresh
supply should be forthcoming. When adding the liquor, stir
the rice with a wooden spoon.

Cook the rice under cover, and, to the resulting preparation,
which should thus be creamy, add a few pieces of fresh butter
and some grated Parmesan.

The dish may be finished, either with shavings of white
truffles or ham cut into dice.

2259— SALSIFY or OYSTER PLANT (Salsifis)

There are two kinds of salsify: — the white and the black,
which is also called "viper's grass."

After having carefully scraped and washed it, cook it in a
blanc. The same preparations suit the two kinds.

2260— FRIED SALSIFY

After having thoroughly drained it, cut it into three and
one-half lengths, and put these on a dish.

Season with salt and pepper ; add lemon Juice, a few drops of
oil, some chopped parsley, and leave to marinade for from
twenty-five to thirty minutes, taking care to toss the salsify from
time to time. This done, drain the lengths of salsify, dip them
in some thin batter; plunge them in very hot fat, and drain
them when the batter is quite dry. Dish them on a napkin with
fried parsley.

N.B. — It is not absolutely necessary to marinade salsify; the
question is one of taste.

2261— SALSIFIS SAUTlg

Cut it into two-inch lengths; dry them very well, and toss
these in butter in an omelet-pan, until they are of a nice golden
colour. Season, and dish in a timbale with fried parsley.

2262— SALSIFIS A LA CREME

Proceed as directed in the case of other vegetables prepared
in this way.

VEGETABLES AND FARINACEOUS PRODUCTS 669

Tomatoes

2263— GRILLED TOMATOES

Take some whole tomatoes, if possible; oil them copiously,
and grill them gently.

2264— TOMATES FARCIES

If the tomatoes to be stuffed be large, cut them in two
laterally; if they be medium-sized or small, a lateral slice cut
from their stem-ends is sufficient. In any case, press them
slightly in order to exude their juice and seeds; season them
inside with salt and pepper ; set them on an oiled tray, and half-
cook them in the oven.

Finally, stuff them as their designation on the menu re-
quires.

• 2265— TOMATES FARCIES AU GRATIN

Having prepared the tomatoes as above, stuff them with
somewhat stiff Duxelles ; sprinkle with raspings and a few drops
of oil, and set the gratin to form in a hot oven.

On taking the dish out of the oven, surround the tomatoes
with a thread of clear tomated half-glaze sauce.

2266— TOMATES FARCIES A LA PROVENCALE

Prepare the tomatoes as follows : — Cut them in two; remove
their seeds; season them, and place them, cut side undermost,
in an omelet-pan containing very hot oil. Turn them over
when they are half-cooked; cook them for a little while longer;
lay them on a ^ratin-dish, and stuff them with the following
preparation : — For six tomatoes, fry two tablespoonfuls of
chopped onion in oil ; add four peeled, pressed, and concassed
tomatoes, a pinch of chopped parsley, and a crushed clove of
garlic, and cook under cover for twelve minutes. Complete
with four tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs, soaked in consomme
and rubbed through a sieve; two anchovies also rubbed through
a sieve, and finish with some sorfiewhat fat, braised-beef gravy.
When the tomatoes are stuffed, sprinkle them with bread-crumbs
combined with grated cheese; sprinkle with oil, and set the
gratin to form.

These tomatoes may be served either hot or cold.

2367— TOMATES FARCIES A LA PORTUGAISE

Stuff the tomatoes with pilaff rice combined with a quarter
of its volume of concassed tomatoes. Dish this rice in the
shape of a regular dome, and sprinkle it with chopped parsley.

N.B. — In addition to the above recipes, tomatoes prepared
as already directed may also be garnished with minced chicken

670 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

or lamb meat, or with scrambled eggs, sprinkled with grated
Parmesan, and then set to glaze at the salamander.

2268— TOMATES SAUTI&ES A LA PROVENgALE

Having halved, pressed, and seasoned the tomatoes, put
them, cut side undermost, in an omelet-pan containing very hot
oil. Turn them over when they are half-cooked, and sprinkle
them with a little chopped parsley, together with a mite of
garlic, and some bread-crumbs. Place them in a moderate
oven in order to finish their cooking, and dish the tomatoes the
moment they are withdrawn from the oven.

2269— PURINE DE TOMATES

See Tomato Sauce (No. 29).

2270— SOUFFLE DE TOMATES A LA NAPOLITAINE

Prepare one-half pint of very reduced tomato puree, and
combine therewith two oz. of grated Parmesan, two tablespoon-
fuls of very stiff B6chamel sauce, and the yolks of three eggs.

Add the three whites, beaten to a stiff froth, and spread the
preparation in layers in a buttered, souffle timbale ; setting upon
each layer a litter of freshly-cooked macaroni, cohered with
butter and grated Parmesan. Cook like an ordinary souffle.

Jerusalem Artichokes (Topinambours)

2271— TOPINAMBOURS A L'ANGLAISE

Cut the Jerusalem artichokes to the shape of large olives,
and gently cook them in butter, without colouration. Season
them, and cohere them with a little thin Bechamel sauce.

2272— TOPINAMBOURS FRITS

Peel and cut the Jerusalem artichokes into thick slices.
Cook these in butter; dip them in batter, and fry them at the
last moment.

2273— PUR6E DE TOPINAMBOURS

Peel, slice, and cook the Jerusalem artichokes in butter.
Rub them through a sieve, and work the pur^e over the fire,
with two oz. of butter per lb. Add enough mashed potatoes to
thicken the preparation, and complete with a few tablespoonfuls
of boiling milk.

2274— SOUFFLE DE TOPINAMBOURS

Proceed as for No. 2250,

VEGETABLES AND FARINACEOUS PRODUCTS 671

Truffles (Truffes)

Truffles are used especially as a garnish ; but they may also
be served as a vegetable or a hors-d'oeuvre.

When so served, they should be prepared very simply; for
they require no refining treatment to make them perfect.

2275— TRUFFES SOUS LA CENDRE

Take some large truffles, and clean them well. Season them
with salt and pepper and a few drops of liqueur brandy; com-
pletely enclose them in a layer of patty paste, and bake them
in the oven from twenty-five to thirty minutes.

Serve them in their case of paste.

2276— TRUFFES AU CHAMPAGNE

Take some fine, well-cleaned truffles; season them, and cook
them, with lid on, in champagne.

This done, set them in a timbale, or in small silver sauce-
pans.

Almost completely reduce the champagne; add thereto a
little thin, strong, veal stock ; strain the whole through muslin ;
pour it over the truffles, and place these on the side of the stove
for ten minutes without allowing the stock to boil.

2277— TRUFFES A LA CR6ME

Cut one lb. of raw, peeled truffles into thick slices. Season
them with salt and pepper, and cook them very gently in two
oz. of butter and a few drops of burnt liqueur brandy.

Reduce to a stiff consistence one-half pint of cream with
three tablespoonfuls of Bechamel sauce; add some truffle cook-
ing-liquor and the necessary quantity of cream; complete with
two oz. of best butter ; mix the truffles with this sauce, and serve
in a vol-au-vent crust.

2278— TRUFFES A LA SERVIETTE

Under this head are served "Truffes au Champagne," the
recipe for which is given above, but the champagne should be
replaced by Madeira.

Dish them in a timbale, set in a napkin folded to represent
an artichoke. But it would be very much more reasonable
to serve " Truffes k la cendre " under this head, serving them
under a folded napkin, as for " Pommes de terre en robe de
chambre" (potatoes in their skins).

^, 2279— TIMBALE DE TRUFFES

Line a buttered timbale mould with ordinary patty paste.
Garnish its bottom and sides with slices of bacon, and fill

672 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

up the mould with raw, peeled truffles, seasoned with salt and
pepper.

Add a glassful of Madeira, two tablespoonfuls of pale
chicken or veal glaze ; cover with a slice of bacon, and close up
the timbale, in the usual way, with a layer of paste.

Gild with beaten eggs, and bake in a hot oven for fifty
minutes. When about to serve, turn out and dish on a napkin.

Farinaceous Products
2280— QNOCHI AU QRATIN

Prepare a " pate k choux " after recipe No. 2374, from the
following ingredients : — one pint of milk, a pinch of salt, and
a little nutmeg, four oz. of butter, two-thirds lb. of flour, and
six eggs. When the paste is ready, combine with it four oz,
of grated Parmesan. Divide this paste into portions the size of
walnuts; drop them into boiling, salted water, and poach them.

As soon as the gnochi rise to the surface of the water, and
seem resilient to the touch, drain them on a piece of linen.

Coat the bottom of a gratin-dish with Mornay sauce ; set the
gnochi upon the latter ; cover them with the same sauce ;
sprinkle with grated cheese and melted butter, and set the
gratin to form in a moderate oven for from fifteen to twenty
minutes.

2281— QNOCHI A LA ROMAINE

Scatter two-thirds lb. of semolina over a quart of boiling
milk. Season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and cook gently
for twenty minutes. Take the utensil off the fire ; thicken the
semolina with the yolks of two eggs, and spread it on a moist-
ened tray, in a layer one-half in. thick.

When it is quite cold stamp it out with a round cutter,
two in. in diameter. Set the gnochi in shallow, buttered tim-
bales; sprinkle with grated Gruy^re and Parmesan, and with
a little melted butter, and set the gratin to form.

2282— QNOCHI DE POMMES DE TERRE

Cook two lbs. of potatoes in the English way. Drain them
as soon as they are cooked, and work the puree, while it is very
hot, with one and one-half oz. of butter, two small eggs, two
egg-yolks, one-third lb. of flour, salt, pepper, and nutmeg.
Divide up this preparation into portions the size of walnuts; roll
them into balls; press upon them lightly with a fork to give
them a criss-cross pattern, and poach them in boiling water.

Drain them on a piece of linen ; dish them in layers, sprink-

VEGETABLES AND FARINACEOUS PRODUCTS 673

ling some grated cheese between each layer; sprinkle
some grated cheese over the top surface; bedew liberally with
melted butter, and set the gratin to form in a hot oven.

2283— NOQUES AU PARMESAN

Put into a previously-heated basin one-half lb. of manied
butter, and work the latter with salt, pepper, and nutmeg;
adding to it, little by little, two eggs and two well-beaten egg-
yolks, five oz. of flour, and the white of an egg, also beaten
to a stiff froth.

Divide up the preparation into portions the size of hazel-
nuts; drop these portions into a saut^pan of boiling, salted
water, and let them poach.

Drain the noques on a piece of linen ; dish them in a tim-
bale; sprinkle them copiously with grated cheese and with
nut-brown butter.

2284— MACARONI

Under this head are included all tubular pastes from Spag-
hetti, the size of which is not larger than thick vermicelli, to
canneloni, the bore of which is one-half in. in diameter.

All these pastes are cooked in boiling water, salted to the
extent of one-third oz. per quart. Macaroni, like other pastes of
a similar nature, should not be cooled.

The most one can do, if the cooking has to be stopped at a
given moment, is to pour a little cold water into the saucepan
and then to take it off the fire.

2285— MACARONI A L'lTALIENNE

Cook the macaroni in boiling water ; completely drain it ; put
it into a saut^pan, and toss it over the fire to dry.

Season it with salt, pepper and nutmeg; cohere it with five
oz. of grated Gruyere and Parmesan, in equal quantities, and
two oz. of butter, cut into small pieces, per lb. of macaroni.
Saute the whole well to ensure the leason, and dish in a timbale.

2286— MACARONI AU GRATIN

Prepare the macaroni after No. 2285, adding to it a little
Bechamel sauce; and set it on a buttered gratin-dish, be-
sprinkled with grated cheese. Sprinkle the surface of the pre-
paration with grated cheese and raspings, mixed, and with
melted butter, and set the gratin to form in a fierce oven.

2287— MACARONI AU JUS

Parboil the macaroni in salted water, keeping it somewhat
firm; drain it, cut it into short lengths, and simmer it in beef

X X

674 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

braising-liquor, until the macaroni has almost entirely absorbed
the latter.

Dish in a timbale, and sprinkle with a few tablespoonfuls
of the same liquor.

2288— MACARONI A LA NANTUA

Having cooked, drained and dried the macaroni, cohere it
with crayfish cream, and mix therewith twenty-four crayfishes'
tails per lb. of macaroni.

Dish in a timbale, and cover the macaroni with a julienne of
very black truffles.
2289— MACARONI A LA NAPOLITAINE

Prepare a beef estouffade with red wine and tomatoes; cook
it for from ten to twelve hours, that it may be reduced to a
pur6e.

Rub this estouffade through a sieve and put it aside.

Parboil some thick macaroni, keeping it somewhat firm ;
drain it ; cut it into short lengths, and cohere it with butter.

Sprinkle the bottom of a timbale with grated cheese; cover
with a layer of estouffade pur^e; spread a layer of macaroni
upon the latter, and proceed in the same order until the timbale
is full. Serve the preparation as it stands.

2290— MACARONI AUX TRUFFES BLANCHES

Prepare the macaroni as directed under No. 2285, and add
to it six oz. of white Piedmont truffles (cut into thin shavings),
per lb. of macaroni.

Leave the preparation covered for five minutes and dish in a
timbale.

2291— NOODLES (Nouilles)

These are generally bought ready-made. If one wish to
prepare them oneself, the constituents of the paste are : — one
lb. of flour, one-half oz. of salt, three whole eggs, and five egg-
yolks. Moisten as for an ordinary paste, roll it out twice on a
board, and leave it to stand for one or two hours before cutting
it up.

All macaroni recipes may be applied to noodles.

For " Nouilles k I'Alsacienne," it is usual, when the prepara-
tion is ready in the timbale, to distribute over it a few raw
noodles sauted in butter and kept very crisp.

K.\CHE

Kache is not a vegetable; but since this preparation has
appeared either as a constituent or an accompaniment of certain

VEGETABLES AND FARINACEOUS PRODUCTS 675

Russian dishes which occur in this work, I am obliged to refer

to it.

2292— KACHE DE SEMOULE POUR COULIBIAC

Talce some coarse, yellow semolina, and scatter it over three
times its bulk of boiling consomm^. Cook it gently for twenty-
five minutes; drain it on a sieve; spread it on a tray, and place
it in a moderate oven to dry. This done, rub it lightly through
a coarse sieve with the view of separating the grains, and put it
aside in the dry until wanted.

2293— KACHE DE SARRASIN POUR POTAQES

Moisten one lb. of concussed buckwheat with enough tepid
water to make a stiff paste ; add the necessary salt, and put this
paste in a large Charlotte-mould. Bake in a hot oven for two
hours. Then remove the thick crust which has formed upon
the preparation, and transfer what remains, by means of a spoon,
to a basin. Mix therewith two oz. of butter while it is still
hot.

Kache prepared in this way may be served in a special tim-
bale. But it is more often spread in a thin layer on a buttered
tray, and left to cool.

It is then cut into roundels one in. in diameter, and these are
rolled in flour and coloured on both sides in very hot, clarified
butter.

2294— POLENTA

In a quart of boiling water containing one-half oz. of salt,
immerse two-thirds lb. of maize flour, stirring the while with
a spoon, that the two may mix. Cook for twenty-five minutes;
add two oz. of butter and two and one-half oz. of grated Par-
mesan. If the Polenta be prepared for a vegetable or a gar-
nish, it is spread in a thin layer on a moistened tray. When
cold, it is cut into roundels or lozenges, which are first browned
in butter, dished, and then sprinkled with grated cheese and
nut-brown butter.

229s— SOUFFLE PIlfeMONTAIS

Boil one pint of milk with one-fifth oz. of salt; sprinkle on it
two oz. of maize flour; mix well; cover, and cook in a mild
oven for twenty-five minutes.

Then transfer the paste to another saucepan ; work it with
one and one-half oz. of butter and as much grated Parmesan ;
mix therewith one egg, two egg-yolks, and the whites of three
eggs beaten to a stiff froth.

Dish in a buttered timbale ; sprinkle with grated cheese, and
cook like an ordinary souffle.

X X 2

676 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

2295a— SOUFFLE AU PARMESAN

Mix one lb. of flour and two and one-half pints of milk in
a saucepan. Add a little salt, pepper and nutmeg, and set the
preparation to boil, stirring it constantly the while.

As soon as the boil is reached, take the saucepan off the
fire, and add one lb. of grated Parmesan, three oz. of butter,
and ten egg-yolks. Rub the whole through tammy and then
combine with it the whites of ten eggs whisked to a stiff froth.

Mould in a silver timbale, lined with a band of buttered
paper, and bake in the oven for from twenty to twenty-five
minutes.

2296— RAVIOLI

Whatever be their garnish, ravioli are always prepared in the
same way. The stuffings given below represent the most usual
forms of garnish.

STUFFING A

Mix one-half lb. of finely-chopped, cooked chicken-meat;
five oz. of cooked and crushed brains; three oz. of pressed
white cheese; three oz. of chopped, pressed and blanched
spinach ; three oz. of parboiled green borage ; a pinch of green
sweet basil; five oz. of grated Parmesan; two eggs; two egg-
yolks; salt, pepper and nutmeg.

STUFFING B

Mix two-thirds lb. of well-cooked, cold and finely-chopped
daube of beef; two-thirds lb. of parboiled, pressed, and chopped
spinach; one oz. of chopped shallots; five oz. of a pur6e of
cooked brain ; two whole eggs, salt, pepper and nutmeg.

STUFFING C

Toss one-half lb. of chickens' livers in butter; add to it
two chopped shallots, a pinch of parsley, and a little crushed
garlic. Finely pound the livers, and add successively one-
half lb. of parboiled, cooled and fresh spinach ; two anchovy
fillets; three oz. of butter; three eggs, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and
a pinch of sweet basil. Rub the whole through a sieve.

2297— THE PREPARATION OF RAVIOLI

They may be made in various shapes as follows : —

(i) Roll a piece of noodle paste to a thin layer and stamp it

out with a grooved cutter, two and one-half in. in diameter.

Moisten the edges of each roundel of paste ; garnish the centre

VEGETABLES AND FARINACEOUS PRODUCTS 677

of each with a ball of one of the above stuffings, the size of a
hazel-nut, and fold in slipper-form.

(2) Roll the paste into a rectangle of four-in. sides; garnish
with stuffing, leaving a gap between the portions of the latter ;
moisten the edges of the paste, and close up by drawing these
together. Finally stamp out with a grooved, crescent-shaped
fancy-cutter.

(3) Prepare a square layer of paste ; garnish it with lines con-
sisting of portions of paste; leave a space of two in. between the
lines. Moisten ; cover with a second layer of paste, of the
same dimensions as the first, and divide up, by means of the
roulette, into squares of two-in. sides. Whatever be the shape
of the ravioli, plunge them into a saucepan of slightly salted
boiling water; poach them for from eight to ten minutes, and
drain them.

Set them on a buttered gratin-dish, sprinkled with grated
cheese ; sprinkle them with good beef gravy ; then again with
grated cheese, and set the gratin to form. Or, dish the ravioli
in layers, sprinkling each layer with grated cheese and gravy.
Complete with some grated cheese, and set the gratin to form
in the usual way.

N.B. — The ravioli may also be served, merely sprinkled with
grated cheese and nut-brown butter.

CHAPTER XIX

SAVOURIES

2298— REMARKS UPON SAVOURIES

I HAVE already expressed my opinion in regard to Savouries.
I consider their use opposed to gastronomical principles, and
that they have no raison d'etre on a good menu. But, not
wishing to seem didactic, I shall give, hereafter, a few savoury
recipes, selected from among those which are gastronomically
the best, and which custom has sanctified.

I resolved to make these recipes appear after the Vegetables
and before the Ices, because I deem that Dessert alone is ad-
missible after the Entremets and Ices.

There is much in common between Hors-d'oeuvres and
Savouries. Many of the former, the recipes for which I have
given, may appear as Savouries, once their seasoning has been
intensified. Among the latter class may be quoted the various
Tartlets (No. 387, &c.); the Barquettes (No. 314); Frivolities
(No. 350) ; Eclairs h la Karoly (No. 344) ; Allumettes aux
Anchois (No. 300); City Toasts (No. 320), &c.

2299— ALLUMETTES

Prepare a ribbon of puff-paste three inches wide by one-
fifth inch thick, leaving the length to come as it will. Spread
on it some very reduced Bechamel sauce, combined with two
tablespoonfuls of grated Gruy^re cheese per one-half pint, and
season with cayenne. Sprinkle the surface with grated
Parmesan ; press the latter into the sauce by means of the flat
of a knife; cut into rectangles one inch wide; set these on a
slightly-moistened tray, and bake them in a moderate oven
for twelve minutes.

2300— BEIQNETS SOUFFLES WITH CHEESE

Prepare some ordinary "pate k choux " without sugar
(No. 2375), and combine it, per lb., with five oz. of a Brunoise
of Gruy^re.

Divide up this paste into portions the size of hazel-nut, and
fry them in fat like other Beignets souffles,

SAVOURIES 679

2301— BEL RRECKS A LA TURQUE

Reduce the required amount of Bdchamel sauce to a thick
consistence ; mix it with an equal quantity of Gruy^re dice ;
season with cayenne, and spread the preparation on a dish to
cool.

Then divide it up into portions the size of fine walnuts;
shape these like cigars, wrap each portion in a very thin layer
of noodle paste; treat them a I'anglaise, and fry them at the
last moment in very hot fat.

2302— CHOUX AU FROMAQE

By means of a piping-bag, form some "choux," a little
larger than the Saint-Honor^ ones, from ordinary paste (see
No. 2375). Gild them with beaten eggs; bake them in a
moderate oven, and keep them dry. When cold, cut them at
the top; garnish them with "Fondue au fromage " seasoned
with cayenne, and complete with some Chantilly cream, com-
bined with grated Parmesan ; this should be laid on by means
of a piping-bag, as in the case of " choux k la cr^me."

2303— CAMEMBERT FRIT

Clear the cheese of its crust, and cut it into elongated
lozenges. Sprinkle the latter with cayenne, treat them twice
a I'anglaise, and fry them at the last moment in hot fat.

2304— CANAPES OR TOAST

These are nothing more than pieces of toast, i.e., slices of
bread, trimmed according to fancy, grilled, buttered, and
garnished in some way.

As the garnishes for toast are innumerable, I shall quote
only a few typical examples.

Canapes Garnished with Scrambled Eggs. — Set the
scrambled eggs in domes upon the Canapes; sprinkle with
grated Parmesan, and set to glaze quickly.

Or arrange the scrambled eggs as above, and cover them
with a lattice of anchovy fillets.

Canapes de Haddock.— Cook the haddock ; rub it through a
sieve; add a little butter and Bechamel sauce to the resulting
pur^e, and set the latter in domes on the toast.

For Variety. — Sprinkle the pur^e with grated Parmesan, and
set to glaze.

Or garnish the pur^e with oysters poached in a little
Worcestershire sauce.

Or again: cover the pur^e with a lattice of anchovy fillets.

Canapes with Kippers or Bloaters. — Grill them and make
a pur^e from them like the haddock,

68o GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

Canapes with Halved or Filleted Anchovies. — In the case of
fillets, set them to form a grill upon the toast ; if the anchovies
be halved, lay them lengthwise on the toast.

Canapes with Sardines in Oil. — Clear the fish of their skins
and bones, and set the fillets on the canapes.

Canapes with Grilled Sprats. — Proceed as for sardines.

Canapes of Salmon. — Toast may be garnished with thin
slices of smoked or fresh salmon, or with the latter prepared
in a pur^e like the haddock.

Various Canapes. — Once the pieces of toast or canapes are
grilled and buttered, they may be garnished with chopped
smoked tongue or ham, cohered with a little butter and
mustard, with grilled slices of mushrooms or tomatoes, &c.

A few of the preparations have names, while others are
only distinguished by the nature of their garnish.

2305— CANAPES A LA CADOQAN

Take oval and slightly hollowed pieces of toast, fried in
butter and garnished with spinach prepared with butter. Lay
two oysters on the spinach of each piece of toast; cover with
Mornay sauce, and glaze quickly.

2306— CANAPES DES QOURMETS

Prepare some very thin pieces of toast; fry them in butter,
and garnish them with a cheese fondue. Pair them off, and
sandwich a piece of grilled bacon between each pair.
2307— CANAPES IVANHOE

Take some round, buttered pieces of toast, garnished with
haddock puree, and set a very small, grilled mushroom on the
puree of each piece of toast.

2308— CANAPES A L'^COSSAISE

Take some round, buttered pieces of toast, garnished with
haddock pur^e, and glazed.

N.B. — I see no use in extending this list any further; the
above directions should suffice to show the variety to which
these preparations lend themselves.

2309— CARCASSE DE VOLAILLE (Chicken Carcasses)i

Take in preference the carcasses of fowls cooked without

colouration.

After having trimmed them, coat them with mustard and

cayenne, and grill them.

2310— CHAMPIGNONS SOUS CLOCHE

Trim the mushrooms; season them with salt and pepper,
and garnish the hollow of ?ach with a piece of Mai tre-d 'hotel

SAVOURIES 68 1

butter, the size of a hazel-nut, and one-half coffeespoonful of
cream.

Set a mushroom on each piece of toast, which should be
two inches in diameter and fried in butter. Dish them on an
egg-tray, and cover them with a special, small, glass bell,
four inches in diameter and two inches high, the rim of which
must rest on the bottom of a dish, the diameter of which should
be such as to fit the bell.

Put the dishes on the side of the stove, and cook in moderate
heat for about twenty-five minutes.

3311— CONORS AU FROMAQE

Prepare a ribbon from puff-paste trimmings, as in the case
of No. 2299.

Spread thereon a thick layer of very reduced Bechamel sauce,
flavoured with cayenne, and combined, when cold, with very
small dice of Gruy^re and Parmesan. Cut up and cook as for
No. 2299.

2313— CRfeME FRITE AU FROMAGE

Mix together four oz. of flour, two and one-half oz. of rice
cream, three eggs, and two egg-yolks. Dilute with one pint
of milk ; season with salt, cayenne, and nutmeg ; boil, and cook
for five minutes over an open fire, stirring incessantly the
while.

Add four oz. of grated Gruy^re; spread this preparation on
a buttered tray; leave it to cool, and then cut it into elongated
lozenges. Roll the latter in beaten egg and bread-crumbs mixed
with grated cheese, and fry them at the last moment. Dish
them on a napkin.

3313— CROQUETTES DE CAMEMBERT

Dilute two oz. of flour and two oz. of rice cream with one-
third pint of milk.

Add one lb. of cleaned camembert, cut into dice, five oz. of
butter, salt, cayenne, and nutmeg.

Cook the preparation, stirring it the while; cool it; spread
it on a tray ; mould it to the shape of small quoits ; treat these
twice a I'anglaise, and fry them.

3314— DEUCES DE FOIE QRAS

Take some fresh, well-seasoned foie gras, studded with
truffles, and covered with slices of bacon, and poach it in a
basin with good aspic jelly flavoured with dry champagne or
Rhine wine. Leave to cool for twenty-four hours; clear the
jelly of grease, first by means of a spoon, and then with boiling
water.

682 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

Serve the preparation as it stands, very cold, and accompany
it with grilled, crisp, and very hot slices of bread-crumb.

2315— DIABLOTINS

These are very small, poached Gnochi, sprinkled with grated
cheese, flavoured with a very little cayenne, and set for their
gratin to form at the last moment.

2316— FONDANTS AU CHESTER

Moisten one-half lb. of flour, an equal quantity of butter
and grated cheese, a pinch of salt, and a very little cayenne,
with a few tablespoonfuls of water.

Cut the paste into small galettes, two inches in diameter;
gild them with beaten eggs ; streak them with a fork, and bake
them in a moderate oven.

When cold, pair the galettes off, and stick them together
with a tablespoonful of fondant cream, prepared thus : —

Mix six egg-yolks with two-thirds pint of cream ; season
with salt and cayenne; leave to set on moderate fire, like an
English custard, and, when the preparation is almost cold,
finish it with five oz. of best butter and as much grated cheese.

2317— ANGES A CHEVAL

Wrap some fine oysters, each in a thin slice of bacon.
Impale them on a skewer; season and grill them, and dish
them on small pieces of toast.

Sprinkle with bread-crumbs and cayenne when about to
serve.

3318— BROCHETTES D'HUITRES LUCIFER

Poach some fine native oysters in their own liquor; clear
them of their beards; dry them, and dip them in thin mustard.
Impale them, six at a time, on skewers, and treat them a
I'anglaise.

Fry them at the last moment, and dish them on a napkin.

2319— OMELETTE A L'^COSSAISE

Take some fresh herring milts; salt them; sprinkle them
with cayenne and chopped chives, parsley, and chervil; wrap
each in a thin slice of smoked salmon, and poach them gently
in butter.

Set them aslant in the centre of an "omelette aux fines
herbes "; cover them well with the latter, and roll it up.

2320— OMELETTE AUX FINES HERBES

See No. 502.

SAVOURIES 683

2321— GRILLED BONES

Take the trimmed bones of a roast sirloin, and let there be
still some meat upon them. Sprinkle them with cayenne; coat
them with mustard, and grill them.

2322— PAILLETTES AU PARMESAN

Prepare some puff-paste with two-thirds lb. of butter; roll
it out ten times, dusting it and the table well the while with
grated Parmesan and a little cayenne, that the paste may
absorb as much as possible of these. Then roll it into square
layers of four-inch sides and one-eighth inch thick; cut these
up into ribbons one-eighth inch wide; set them on buttered
trays; bake them in a very hot oven, and serve them on a
napkin.

2323— PANNEQUETS A LA MOSCOVITE

Take some ordinary, unsugared Pannequets; cut them into
rectangles three inches long by one and one-half inches wide.)
Coat them with caviare, flavoured with cayenne ; roll them into
cigarettes, and serve them on crystal hors-d'oeuvre dishes.

2324— PUDDING DE FROMAGE AU PAIN

Set some thin slices of stale, buttered and cheese-sprinkled
bread in a pie-dish. Having three-parts filled the dish with
it, cover the slices with a preparation consisting of the yolks
of four eggs mixed with one-quarter pint of broth — which
quantities are suited to a pint dish.

Sprinkle copiously with grated cheese; bake in the oven,
and glaze at the last moment.

2325— SARDINES A LA DIABLE

Take fresh sardines, if possible. Skin and bone them ; coat
them with mustard and cayenne; treat them d I'anglaise; fry
them at the last moment, and dish them on small fried croutons,
the shape of sardines.

N.B. — Fresh anchovies and smelts may be prepared in the
same way.

2326— SCOTCH WOODCOCK

Toast some large slices of bread, one-third inch thick, and
cover them with a very thick English butter sauce, combined
with plenty of capers and anchovy pur^e.

Sprinkle with grated Parmesan ; glaze quickly at the sala-
mander; speedily cut up into small rectangles, and serve very
hot.

2327— TARTELETTES AGNfeS

Line some grooved tartlet moulds with good paste, and
garnish them with a preparation of Quiche with cheese,

684 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

flavoured with cayenne. Cook them at the last moment, and, on
taking them out of the oven, set a roundel of poached marrow
rolled in pale melted meat glaze and chopped parsley on each
tartlet.

2328— TARTELETTES A L'ECOSSAISE

Take some tartlet crusts, baked without colouration, and
garnish them at the last moment with a haddock pur^e, cohered
with Bechamel sauce.

3329— TARTELETTES DE HADDOCK

Garnish some colourlessly-baked tartlet crusts with a sal-
picon of poached haddock, mixed with curry sauce. Sprinkle
the surface of each with fine raspings, and dish them on a
napkin.

2330— TARTELETTES A LA FLORENTINE

Garnish some colourlessly-baked tartlet crusts with Souffle
with Parmesan, combined with grated truffles and crayfishes'
tails cut into dice, and strongly seasoned with mignonette.

Bake in the oven for about three minutes.

2331— TARTELETTES MARQUISE

Line some tartlets with good paste ; garnish their bottom and
sides with a thread of gnochis preparation, laid by means of a
piping-bag fitted with an even pipe, the orifice of which should
be equal in diameter to macaroni.

Fill up the tartlets with Mornay sauce flavoured with
cayenne; sprinkle with grated cheese, and bake in a fierce
oven.

2332— TARTELETTES A LA RAQLAN

Garnish the bottom of some colourlessly-baked tartlets with
a smoked herring-milt purt^e. Cover the latter with haddock
souffle, shaped like a hive by means of a piping-bag fitted with
a small, grooved pipe. Place in the oven for six minutes, and
serve instantly.

2333— TARTELETTES A LA TOSCA

Garnish some tartlet crusts with crayfishes' tails, prepared
" k I'Am^ricaine." Cover with Souffl6 with Parmesan, and
place in the oven for three minutes.

2334— TARTELETTES A LA VENDOME

Line some tartlet moulds with good paste; prick the bottom
of each, and garnish them with the following preparation.

For twelve tartlets : — One and one-half oz. of chopped
shallots, heated in butter; three oz, of sauted and finely chopped

SAVOURIES 685

cepes; one and one-half oz. of raw marrow in dice; one small

hard-boiled and chopped egg; one oz. of bread-crumbs, salt,

cayenne, a few drops of lemon juice, and three tablespoonfuls

of melted meat glaze. Set a large slice of marrow on each

tartlet, and cook at the last moment.

2335— WELSH RABBIT

This may be prepared in two ways, but always on square

or rectangular pieces of buttered toast, one-third inch thick.

1. The simplest way is to cover the pieces of toast with a
thick layer of grated Gloucester or Chester cheese, to sprinkle
them with cayenne, and then to place them in the oven for the
cheese to melt and thereby glaze their surfaces.

2. The original method consists in melting the dice or slices
of cheese in a few tablespoonfuls of pale ale and a little English
mustard.

As soon as the cheese has melted, it is poured over the
pieces of buttered toast, quickly smoothed with the flat of
a knife, and sprinkled with cayenne. The pieces may be cut
up if required.

2336— SANDWICHES

Sandwiches are prepared in two ways, according to their
purposes.

They generally consist of two slices of buttered bread, with
mustard spread upon them, covering a slice of ham or tongue,
&c. Sandwiches are usually rectangular, and they should
measure about three inches by one and one-half inches. The
kind served at ball buffets are much smaller, and therefore it is
best to cut the sandwiched product (whatever this be) into dice,
and to mix it with an equal weight of butter containing mustard.

When sandwiches have to be kept, they should be placed
under a slight weight to prevent the bread from drying. Sand-
wiches may also be made from thick, toasted slices of bread, cut
laterally into two, and then garnished according to fancy.

Names of common Sandwiches.
Ham Sandwich. Foie-Gras Sandwich.

Tongue Sandwich. Hard-boiled Egg Sandwich.

Beef Sandwich. Caviare Sandwich.

Pressed-beef Sandwich. Tomato Sandwich.

Veal Sandwich. Cucumber Sandwich.

Chicken Sandwich. Watercress Sandwich.

Mustard-and-cress Sandwich.

2337— BOOKMAKER SANDWICHES

In his book, " La Cuisine Anglaise," Mr. Suzanne gives
the following kind of sandwich, which deserves attention : —

6^6 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

This kind of sandwich, which is liked by racing people, is a
most substantial affair, and it will be seen from the following
recipe that a sandwich of the nature prescribed might, in an
emergency, answer the purpose of a meal.

Take an English tin-loaf, and cut off its two end crusts,
leaving on them about one-third inch of crumb. Butter these
crusts. Meanwhile grill a thick steak, well seasoned with salt
and pepper. When it is cooked, cool it ; sprinkle it with grated
horse-radish and mustard, and lay it between the two crusts.
String the whole together as for a galantine, and wrap it in
several sheets of blotting-paper. Then place the parcel under
a letter-press, the screw of which should be gradually tightened,
and leave the sandwich thus for one-half hour.

At the end of this time the insides of the slices of bread
have, owing to the pressure, become saturated with meat juice,
which is prevented from escaping by the covering of crust.

Remove the blotting-paper, and pack the sandwich in a box
or in several sheets of white paper.

CHAPTER XX

Entremets (Sweets)

Pastry, Confectionery, and Ices are so closely allied to
Cookery, and they are so surely its complements, that it is
impossible to omit them when dealing with Entremets, even
though the latter be limited to the kind proper to the kitchen.

However, these subjects, which could supply matter for
voluminous works, are too complex for it to be possible to cope
thoroughly with them here.

I shall therefore confine myself to the expounding of their
fundamental principles and the essential operations relating
thereto, a knowledge of which is absolutely necessary for the
successful preparation of Kitchen Entremets and Ices. The
directions given hereafter are certainly too inadequate to con-
vert an ordinary cook into a pastry-cook, a confectioner, or a
" glacier "; but they will at least admit of his carrying out a
complete dinner, if the necessity so to do should occur.

Elementary Preparations of Pastry which may be Applied

TO Entremets

2338— VARIOUS ALMOND PREPARATIONS

It is important that one should have skinned, splintered,
and chopped almonds.

To Skin Almonds .-—Throvf them in a saucepan of boiling
water, place the utensil on the side of the fire without allowing
the boiling to continue, and let the almonds soak for seven
or eight minutes. As soon as the skin slips when pressing
them between one's fingers, turn them out on to a strainer ; cool
them in cold water, and skin them. This done, wash them in
cold water; drain them well; spread them on a very clean
tray, and dry them in a mild oven.

Splintered Almonds. — Having skinned and washed the
almonds, split them in two, and cut each half into five or
six splinters. Dry the latter in the drying-box, and place
them in the front of the oven for a while to colour slightly.

688 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

They serve for nougat, and sometimes take the place of
pignolis.

Chopped Almonds. — Having sidnned the almonds, slightly
dry them and chop them with a knife; rub them through a
canvas sieve, the coarseness of which should be in accordance
with that required for the chopped almonds.

Spread the latter on a tray covered with a sheet of paper,
and dry them in the drying-box, stirring them from time to
time the while.

Grilled Almonds. — These are either splintered or chopped
almonds set to bake on a tray in a moderate oven. Be sure
to stir them frequently, that they may colour evenly, and with-
draw them when they are of a nice golden shade.

Pralined Alm.onds. — Proceed as for grilled almonds, but
sprinkle them frequently with icing sugar, which turns to
caramel under the influence of the heat of the oven, and swathes
the almonds in a pale-brown coat of sugar.

2339— VARIOUS PREPARATIONS OF FILBERTS
AND HAZEL-NUTS

Filberts are a large kind of hazel-nut, generally covered
with red skins.

After having cracked and suppressed the shells, set the fil-
berts on a dish, and place them in the front of the oven until
their skins are slightly grilled. They need then only be rubbed
between the fingers in order to clear them of their skins.
Chopped filberts are prepared like chopped almonds, and should
be included in the permanent " mise en place " of the pastry
cook.

2340— VARIOUS BUTTERS

Softened Butter. — More particularly in winter, when it is
very hard, butter should be softened, i.e., thoroughly kneaded
in a towel, to : —

1. Extract the butter-milk, which is always present in more
or less large quantities.

2. Make it sufficiently soft to mix with the various in-
gredients of which the pastes are made up.

Pomaded Butter. — After having well softened it as above,
put it in a bowl or basin, previously rinsed with hot water
and thoroughly wiped. Work the butter with a spatula or a
wooden spoon until it acquires the consistence of a pomade —
a necessary condition for certain of its uses.

Clarified Butter. — In pastry, clarified butter is used more
especially for the buttering of moulds. Put the butter to be
clarified into a saucepan, and cook it over a very slow fire until

ENTREMETS 689

(i) the caseoUs substances liberated in the cooking process have
accumulated and solidified on the bottom of the saucepan ; (2) it
appears litrlpid, of a golden colour, and exhales a slight, nutty
smell.

Strain it through muslin, and put it aside until required.

2341— THE BUTTERING AND GLAZING OF MOULDS

All moulds, large and small, should be buttered so as to
ensure the easy turning-out of cakes cooked in them. Clarified
butter, owing to its purity, is the best for the purpose. It may
be applied with a brush, care being taken that all the inside
surfaces get uniformly covered with it. One unbuttered spot
is sufficient to make a moulding stick, or to completely spoil a
cake.

For certain cakes, chopped or splintered almonds are
sprinkled in the mould. For others, especially biscuits, the
moulds are flour-dusted — that is to say, a veil of very dry flour
or fecula is allowed to settle on the layer of butter, which, at
the turning out, appears like a glazed crust upon the cake.

2342— HOW TO BEAT THE WHITES OP EGGS

The best utensil for the purpose is a copper or, nickel basin
in which the whisk may act at all points owing to the spherical
shape of the receptacle. Tinned or enamelled utensils set up
a kind of greasiness which does not allow of one'j^ bringing the
whites to the stiffness necessary for some purposes.

Begin whisking the whites gently, and draw them up with
the whisk until all their molecules have disaggregated and they
begin to stiffen. They may then be whisked until they are
sufficiently stiff to be taken up bodily by the whisk.

Preventive Means. — To facilitate the beating of whites of
es:es, there may be added to them at the start a pinch either
of Salt or alum per ten wnites. When, towards the close of the
operation, the^^wlutes pegin^to granulate, owing to any one of
the various causes, add immediatelv one tablespoonful of
powdered snfrar per ten wnites, ana then whisk briskly, to
restore them to their normaTstate.

2343— VEGETABLE COLOURING MATTERS

Every pastry-cook's stock should include a series of vege-
table colouring matters, comprising carmine, liquid spinach
green, yellow, &c.

When required, the blending of these colours yields the
intermediate tones. The colours may be bought.

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690 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

2344_THE COOKINQ OF SUGAR

From the state of syrup to the most highly-concentrated
state in which it is used in pastry sugar passes through various
stages of cooking, which are : — The small thread (215° F.) and
the large thread (222° F,), the small ball (236° F.) and the large
ball (248° F.), the small crack (285° F.) and the large crack
(315° F.). When the last state is overreached, the sugar has
become caramel (360° F.).

Put the necessary quantity of loaf sugar in a small, copper

saucepan ; moisten with enough water to melt it, and boil.

Carefully remove the scum which forms, and which might cause

the sugar to granulate. ^ '"" ~

/ As soorTas^tlie sugar begins to move stiffly in boiling, it

I is a sign that the water has almost entirely evaporated, and that

; the real cooking of the sugar has begun.

\ From this moment, with moistened fingers or a little piece
of moistened linen, take care to remove the crystallised sugar
from the sides of the utensil, lest it makes the remaining portion
turn.

The cooking of the sugar then progresses very rapidly, and
the states of its various stages, coming one upon the other in
quick succession at intervals of a few minutes, may be ascer-
tained as follows : —

It has reached the small-thread stage, when a drop of it held
between the thumb and the first finger fornris smalT resistless
strings_when the thumb and finger are drawn apart. —~-—

it has reached the large-thread stage, when, proceeding in
the same way, the strings formed between the parted finger and
thumb are more numerous and stronger.

From this moment recourse must be had to cold water in
order to ascertain the states of the sugar.

When a few minutes have elapsed after the test for the large-
thread state, dip the end of the first finger, first into cold
water, then into the sugar, and plunge it again immediately
into the bowl of cold water, which should be ready at hand.
The sugar taken from the finger forms a kind of soft ball, and
it is this state which is called the small ball.

When, upon repeating the procedure, the sugar removed
from the finger rolls into a firmer ball, the large-ball stage is
reached.

After the cooking has continued for a few seconds longer,
the sugar lying on the finger peels off in the form of a thin,
flexible film, which sticks to the teeth. This is the small-crack
Uage. Tests should then be made in quick succession, until

ENTREMETS 691

the film taken from the end of the finger breaks "clean " in
the teeth, like glass. This is the large-crack state, the last of
the cooking stages, and as soon as it has been reached the
utensil should be taken off the fire, lest a few seconds more
turn the sugar to caramel.

To prevent the granulating of the sugar, a few drops of
lemon fuice may be ad3ea to it ; or. better still, a taBlespoorifiil
of glucose, per lb.

2345— GLACE A L'ANCIENNE

Put the required amount of icing sugar in a small saucepan,
the quantity used being in proportion to the object to be glazed.

If it be flavoured with vanilla, orange, or lemon, dilute it
with a little water, keeping it somewhat stiff ; add some vanilla-
flavoured sugar or grated orange-rind, and stir it up well for
a few minutes. Then make it lukewarm, so that it may run
easily and dry quickly, and pour it over the object to be treated.

For the above-mentioned flavours, an infusion of vanilla
or orange-rind may be prepared, and this may serve in diluting
the glaze. The flavours may also be used in the form of
essences, provided it be remembered that they are usually very
strong thus, and must be used with caution.

If liqueur glazes are in question, such as Kirsch, Rum,
Anisette, or Marasquin, &c., the glaze is diluted with the liqueur
and made lukewarm as directed above.

2346— GLACE AU FONDANT

Preparation of the " Fondant." — Put some loaf sugar into
a small saucepan, the quantity being in accordance with the
amount of " Fondant " required.

Moisten with just enough water to melt the sugar, and set
to cook as directed under " The Cooking of Sugar."

Stop the cooking precisely at 230° F. between the large-
thread stage and the small-ball stage, and pour the sugar on a
moderately-oiled marble slab. Let it half cool for a few
minutes; then, with a spatula, move it about well in all direc-
tions, taking care that no portion of the sugar on the marble
is left untouched by the spatula, for any such portion would
harden and form lumps in the Fondant.

After ten to fifteen minutes' work with the spatula, the sugar
should have become a white, slightly granulated paste. Heap
the latter together, and scrape the marble slab with the blade
of a strong knife. Carefully work this paste (No. 2357) with
the palm of the hand until it is very thin and smooth, whereupon
the Fondant is ready for use.

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692 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

It need now only be heaped in a receptacle, covered with a
damp cloth, and kept somewhat dry.

To Glaze -with " Fondant." — Put the required amount of it
into a saucepan ; work it over a slow fire for a while, in order
to soften it, and moisten it, little by little, with water when
a dry flavour or an essence is used, or, otherwise, with the
selected liqueur.

Warm slightly in order to make the glaze very liquid and
to ensure its speedy drying, and pour it, at one tilt, over the
object to be glazed.

With the help of some colour, the glaze is generally given
the tint of the fruit which flavours it.

2346a— SUCRE EN GLACE (Icing Sugar)

This is sugar strained through a silken drum-sieve. The
sugar strained through this silk has the delicacy of starch.
At times it is used instead of Fondant for the glazing of
cakes, but it is mostly used for white and caramel glazings.
For this purpose the sugar is held in a tin box, covered with
a lid pierced with small holes, called a sugar dredger.

To glaze white is to cover a cake, a fritter, or other object
with a coat of icing sugar. This operation is effected by shak-
ing the sugar dredger over the object to be glazed.

To glaze with caramel is to cover a Souffle, a souffled omelet,
fruit fritters, a custard, Pannequets, or other objects with a coat
of icing sugar. By placing the sugar-coated object in fierce
heat, a few minutes suffice to melt the sugar, which is con-
verted into a brilliant covering of caramel.

2347— SUGAR GRAINS

These are used in pastry to border certain cakes, or to sur-
round the sugared-paste bases on which cakes are set. For this
purpose the parts to which the sugar is expected to adhere
must be besmeared with cooked apricot.

To make them, roughly pound some loaf sugar, and sift the
latter first through a coarse strainer, and then through a finer
one, according to the size the sugar grains are required to be.
The powder will, of course, fall and leave the grains clean.
2348— COLOURED SUGAR GRAINS

To colour sugar grains, spread them on a piece of paper,
and add a drop of liquid vegetable-colouring or a very little
coloured paste per tablespoonful of sugar. The amount of
colouring matter may either be lessened or increased, accord-
ing to the strength the shade is required to be.

Rub the sugar in the hand to colour it evenly; dry it in a

ENTREMETS 693

moderately warm drying-box, and keep it in the dry in well-
closed boxes.

2349— VANILLA SUGAR

The vanilla sticks which have served in preparing infusions
still possess some flavour. Reserve them, therefore, for the
making of vanilla sugar.

After having gently dried them in the drying-box, finely
pound them with twice their weight of loaf sugar ; sift through
a silken sieve, and again pound the bits remaining on the silk
of the sieve until every particle goes through. Keep the pre-
paration in a well-closed box in the dry.

2350— CANDIED FRUIT

These are used in the decoration of certain cakes, and as
the constituent ingredients of others.

They comprise angelica, golden and green chinois, cherries,
plums, red and white pears, &c.

Candied fruit may be bought ready-prepared.

2351— APPLE JELLY FOR DECORATING

Quarter, peel, and core the apples (preferably russets), and
throw them, one by one, in a bowl of fresh water to prevent
their getting brown.

Then put them in a copper basin with one and one-half pints
of water per two lbs. of apples, and cook them gently without
touching them.

This done, pour away their juice, and return it to the basin
together with two lbs. of sugar per quart. Boil ; skim with
great care, that the jelly may be clear, and cook over a fierce
fire until the jelly has reached a stage which may be ascertained
thus: — (i) When on taking the skimmer out of the basin, the
jelly adhering to it seems to mass itself towards the middle
of the skimmer; or: — (2) When the jelly breaks up into large
drops, separated one from the other.

Then take the jelly off the fire; add some carmine to it,
drop by drop, until it acquires a rosy hue; strain it again
through a fine piece of linen, that it may be perfectly limpid,
and finally pour it into tin receptacles to cool.

Put aside until wanted.

352— PRALIN

(i) If it be for the purpose of covering certain cakes, or for
forming a glaze on a fruit entremet, prepare it thus : — Put the
whites of two eggs and three tablespoonfuls of icing sugar in a
small basin. Mix and stir briskly with a small, wooden spoon,
until the paste becomes somewhat thick. Then, subject to the

694 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

purpose for which it is intended, add a more or less large
quantity of chopped almonds, according as to whether the pralin
be required thick or slightly liquid for spreading. Cover it
with a piece of white paper, moistened with white of egg, that
it may remain moist if kept for some time.

(2) If it is to be added to a soujfle preparation, to a scuffled
omelet, to a preparation of ice, or to a custard, it is a nougat
powder which is prepared as follows : —

Gently melt one lb. of powdered sugar in a small saucepan,
taking care not to let it acquire a deeper shade than old gold.
Mix twenty oz. of dried almonds with it; turn the whole out
on to the corner of a slightly-oiled marble slab (or on an over-
turned saucepan-lid), and leave to cool. When the nougat is
quite cold, pound it and rub it through a sieve.

Pound and rub what remains in the sieve until the whole
goes through.

Put the powder in a well-closed box, and place the latter in
a dry place.

2353— CURRANTS AND SULTANAS

Sultanas and currants should always be at hand, ready and
cleaned. To clean them, first dredge them and then rub them
in a towel, closed to form a sort of purse. Now, turn them into
a sieve or colander, which shake vigorously, that the flour and
the detached stems may be eliminated ; then examine them,
one by one, to make sure that no stems remain.

Currants should be examined with very particular care, as
small stones often get in among them.

Put the currants and the sultanas aside, each in a box or a
drawer.

2354— ESSENCES AND FLAVOURINGS

The various essences used in pastry are bought ready-made.
The flavourings consist of those products treated by infusion,
such as vanilla; of grated or infused products, such as lemon
and orange rinds; and liqueurs in general.

Fruit juices only become flavours when a liqueur in keeping
with the fruit from which they were extracted has been added
to them.

2355— GILDING PREPARATION

This consists of beaten eggs. Its purpose is to ensure the
colouration of certain cakes, whereon it is smeared by means
of a brush. In some cases this gilding may be combined with
a little water, as, for instance, when the heat of the oven is too

ENTREMETS 695

fierce, and cakes are required of a light colour. In some cases,
especially in that of small, dry cakes, it consists entirely of
egg-yolks diluted with a few drops of water.

The Pastes

2356— ORDINARY SHORT PASTE

Sift one lb. of flour over the mixing-board; make a hollow
in its midst, and put therein one-sixth oz. of salt, one-third
pint of cold water, and one-half lb. of butter well softened —
especially in winter. Mix the flour gradually with the butter and
the water; mass the whole a moment or two, and knead it (see
No. 2357) twice. Then roll it up in a ball ; wrap it in a piece
of linen that its surface may not dry, and put it aside in the
cool.

Remarks : A kneaded paste should be prepared either one
day, or at least a few hours, in advance, in order that it may
lose that elasticity which it acquires from the kneading.

Pastes, after they have rested awhile, are much more easily
treated, and bake a much more definite and lighter colour, than
those that are used as soon as they are prepared.

3357— THE KNEADING OF PASTES

The object of kneading paste is to combine the ingredients
of which it is composed thoroughly, and also to smooth it.
Proceed as follows : —

When the paste is mixed, roll it into a mass ; put it in front
of one ; then press it away from one, little by little, between the
board and the palm of the hand. For the paste to be perfectly
smooth, it ought to be treated twice in this way.

2358— FINE, SHORT OR FLAWN PASTE (For Fruit Tarts)

Sift one lb. of flour on to the mixing-board, and hollow it
out. Put in the hollow one-third oz. of salt, one and one-half
oz. of powdered sugar, an egg, one-fourth pint of cold water,
and ten oz. of butter. First, thoroughly mix the butter, the
egg, the water, and the seasoning, and then gradually combine
the flour with it.

Knead the paste; press it out twice; roll it into a ball, and
wrap it up as before with the view of setting it aside in the cool
to rest.

2359— DRESSING PASTE (Pate h Pate)

Take one lb. of sifted flour, four oz. of butter, one egg, one-
third oz. of salt, and one-fourth pint of water. Mix as already

696 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

directed ; knead twice ; roll up the paste^ and set it in the cool to
rest. This paste should be kept somewhat firm.

2360— DRESSING PASTE WITH LARD

Take one lb. of sifted flour, four oz. of lard, one-quarter pint
of tepid water, one egg, one-third oz. of salt, and proceed
exactly as in the case of No. 2359.

2361— DUMPLING AND PUDDING PASTES

Break up ten oz. of very dry beef suet, and carefully clear
it of all little pieces of skin and connective tissue. Chop it up
as finely as possible; sift one lb. of flour on to the mixing-
board; hollow it out; and put into the hollow one-half oz. of
salt, one and one-half oz. of sugar, one-third pint of water, and
the chopped suet. Mix up these various ingredients, and, by
degrees, combine the flour with them.

Mass the paste together, without kneading it, and put it aside
in the cool until it is wanted.
2362— DRY SUGARED PASTE FOR VARIOUS PURPOSES

Take one lb. of sifted flour, seven oz. of butter, five oz. of
powdered sugar, three eggs, and one-half tablespoonful of
orange-flower water.

Mix in the usual way, knead it twice; roll it into a ball, and
keep it wrapped up, in the cool, until required.

2363— PASTE FOR SMALL GUMMED TEA-CAKES

Take one lb. of sifted flour, ten oz. of butter, ten oz. of
sugar, one egg, the yolks of four, and a tablespoonful of orange-
flower water.

Mix up gradually; mass the paste together, and roll it out
into a thin layer, twice. Roll it up, and let it rest awhile
in the cool before it is used.

2364— GUMMING

In the case of certain small cakes, especially those served at
tea, it is usual to gum their surfaces in order to make them
glossy. For this purpose a thin solution of gum arable is used,
and it is smeared over the cakes as they leave the oven, by
means of a small brush.

Cakes may also be gummed with a syrup formed from milk
and sugar, which mixture may be used instead of gum arabic
with advantage.

3365— GALETTE PASTE

Hollow out one lb. of sifted flour and put in its midst one-
third oz. of salt, two oz. of powdered sugar, one-quarter pint of
water, and one-half lb. of softened butter.

Mix, taking care to include the flour only by degrees;

ENTREMETS 697

thoroughly knead, that the ingredients may be well combined,
and mass the paste together without making it too elastic.
Leave it to rest in the cool for at least an hour; then roll it
out thrice, at intervals of eight minutes, for the reasons given
under the directions for puff-paste.

2366— PUFF- PASTE
(i) Sift one lb. of flour on to the mixing-^board. Make 3.
hollow in it, and put therein one-third oz. of table salt and
about one-half pint of cold water, and mix without kneading.
Mass the paste together, and let it rest for twenty minutes, that
it may lose its elasticity, which will be all the more pronounced
for its having been very much worked. It is to avoid this
elasticity, therefore, that the mixing of puff-paste should be
effected with the smallest amount of kneading possible.

(2) Spread the prepared paste on a flour-dusted board, in the
shape of an even galette. Spread thereon one lb. of softened
butter, without completely covering the paste; draw the edges
of the paste towards the centre, in such wise as to enclose the
butter completely, and to form a square thickness of paste.

(3) Leave to rest for a further ten minutes^ and then begin
the working of the paste ; rolling it out to the length of one and
one-half feet, and keeping it one in. thick. Fold this layer over
thrice, and press upon it with the roller so as to join the super-
posed layers. The whole of this operation constitutes one turn.

Begin another turn immediately, turning the paste the re-
verse way, and folding it.as before. Set it to rest in the cool for
eight or ten minutes, and then effect two more turns.

Ten minutes after the two last turns (there should be six in
all), the puff^paste is ready to be cut up and used.

Remarks relative to puff-paste : Good puff-paste should be
buttered to the extent of one lb. per one and one-half lbs., i.e.,
one lb. of butter for every one lb. of flour mixed with one-half
pint of water. The consistence of the paste and the butter
should be exactly the same, if they are to be evenly mixed ; the
butter ought therefore to be softened — more particularly in
witater.

In preparing puff-paste, remember to put it in a cool place
while it is resting ; but never directly upon ice ; for, though the
ice would not affect the paste, it might seriously affect the butter.

It would harden it to the extent of preventing its perfect
mixture with the mass, and lumps would form. Puff-paste
should be rolled out very regularly, with the view of thoroughly
distributing the butter throughout the preparation, and thus
ensuring its uniform rising.

Puff-paste should not be worked too speedily ; for, if it be so

698 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

worked, it will be found to acquire an elasticity which not only-
makes it difficult to cut up, but also tends to make it shrink in
the baking.

2367— PUFF- PASTE TRIMMINGS OR HALF PUFF- PASTE

These are very useful in pastry work, for tartlets, barquettes,
croutons, &c. When the puff-paste is cut up, the trimmings
should therefore be rolled into a ball, and put aside in the cool.
Nevertheless they must be used within the space of two days in
summer and four days in winter.

2368— ORDINARY BRIOCHE PASTE

(i) Sift one lb. of flour on to the board; take a quarter of it,
make a hollow in it, and put therein one-quarter oz. of very
fresh, dry yeast. Mix the yeast and the flour with a little tepid
water, so as to obtain a soft paste which is the leaven. Roll
this paste into a ball ; make two slits in its top, at right angles
to one another, and place it in a small basin.

Cover the latter, and put it in a somewhat warm place, that
the leaven may be sure to ferment.

(2) Make a hollow in the remaining flour, and put into it one-
quarter oz. of salt, and one and one-half oz. of sugar, together
with two tablespoonfuls of milk to melt it, one-third of the
whole amount of the butter to be used, namely, four oz., and
four eggs.

Begin by thoroughly mixing the butter, eggs and seasoning,
and then combine the flour therewith, by degrees. When the
paste forms a compact mass, knead and pull it about with the
hands, that it may be light. When, at the end of a few minutes,
it has acquired a certain resilience, make a hole in the middle
of it and add one egg. Mix the latter with the paste; work it
afresh, and after an interval of two minutes add one more egg in
the same way. The total number of eggs for the quantities
of other ingredients given above should be six.

(3) Add the remaining butter (eight oz.) to the paste; the
former being manied and even softened, just sufficiently to make
it of the same consistence as the paste.

Spread it on the latter, and mix the two ; kneading small
portions at a time, and combining those portions so as to mix
the two elements completely.

At this stage, overturn the paste and spread the leaven
(which should now be equal to twice its original bulk) upon it.

Mix it well as in the case of the butter, without working the
paste.

ENTREMETS 699

Finally, put the paste into a basin ; cover it, and place it in
a temperate room.

For it to have the desired lightness, this paste should fer-
ment for from ten to twelve hours. However, at the end of five
or six hours, the process is arrested by the working of the paste ;
that is to say, by turning it out upon a flour-dusted board and
beating it with the palm of the hand.

It is then returned to the basin to ferment afresh, for five
or six hours ; and then it is once more beaten just before being
used.

2369— MOUSSELINE BRIOCHE PASTE

Mousseline brioche paste is made from the ordinary kind,
combined with a little butter and developed in the mould by
fermentation before the baking process — which procedure makes
it exceedingly light and delicate.

This paste is used in the preparation of certain timbales for
fruit sweets, and it is prepared as follows : —

Take the required amount of ordinary brioche paste, and
add to it, per lb. of paste, two oz. of best butter, softened to
the consistence of an ointment, that it may thoroughly mix
with the paste. Roll the paste into a ball, and put it in a
liberally-buttered mould, only filling two-thirds of the latter
with it. The remaining third of the mould gets filled by the
rising of the paste. Place the mould in a temperate room, until
the paste has risen to the edges of the mould ; besmear the sur-
face of the paste with a brush dipped in melted butter, and bake
in a moderate oven,

2370— ORDINARY BRIOCHE PASTE (For Rissoles, Small
Patties a la Dauphine, and Various other Preparations)

Quantities: one lb. of flour, seven oz. of butter, four fair-
sized eggs, salt, a pinch of powdered sugar; one-third oz. of
very dry, fresh yeast, and a little tepid milk.

(i) Make the leaven with a quarter of the flour, the yeast
and the lukewarm milk, and set it to ferment while the paste
is being prepared.

(2) Prepare the paste as already directed, and keep it fer-
menting as before for ten hours, taking care to arrest the process
once.

The work is the same as in the preceding case, in every
particular, except in regard to the amount of butter, which in
this instance is only half as much ; in regard to the amount
of sugar, which should only be just sufficient to ensure the
colouring of the paste; and finally in regard to its firmness,
which should admit of the paste being worked with a rolling-pin.

700 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

2371— SAVARIN PASTE

Quantities: One lb. of flour; twelve oz. of butter; one-half
oz. of very dry, fresh yeast; eight eggs; about one-third pint of
milk; one-half oz. of salt, and one oz. of sugar.

Procedure : Savarin paste may be prepared in several ways;
but the one given below is as simple and expeditious as could'
be desired.

Sift the flour into a basin (or a round wooden bowl, better
suited to the work) ; hollow it out ; add the yeast, and dissolve
the latter by means of tepid milk, stirring slightly with the tip
of the finger.

Add the eggs ; mix the whole ; work the paste by hand for
a few minutes ; detach those portions of it which have adhered
to the side of the utensil, and add them to the whole.

Distribute the softened butter in small quantities over the
paste. Cover, and place in a temperate room until the paste has
grown to twice its original bulk. Then add salt; knead the
paste, that it may thoroughly absorb the butter, and pat it
briskly until it is sufficiently elastic to be taken up in one lump.

At this stage add the sugar, and work the paste again that
the former may thoroughly mix with it. The sugar should only
be added at the close of the operation ; for, since it impairs the
cohesiveness of the paste, it would render the latter much more
difHcult to work were it added at the start.

THE USES OF THIS PASTE

If it be for Savarins with syrup, it is customary to sprinkle
the previously-buttered moulds with slightly-grilled, chopped
or splintered almonds. Take the paste in small quantities at a
time, and line the moulds with it to the extent of one-third of
their height.

The remaining two-thirds of each mould become covered
when the paste rises owing to fermentation.

Proceed in the same way for Savarins which are to be kept
dry, for fruit crusts or other uses; but then the sprinkling of
the moulds with almond may be omitted.

2373— PATE A BABA

Quantities : One lb. of flour; one-half lb. of butter; seven
eggs; two-thirds oz. of yeast; one-fifth pint of milk; one-third
oz. of salt; two-thirds oz. of sugar; three oz. of currants and
sultanas in equal quantities.

Procedure : Proceed exactly as for Savarin paste, and add the
currants and sultanas at the last with the sugar. In moulding.

ENTREMETS 701

a few pipped Malaga raisiris may be laid on the bottom of the
moulds. As in the case of the Savarin, the paste should only
fill one-third of the mould.

2373— ORDINARY pATE A CHOUX

Quantities. — One pint of water; eight oz. of butter; one-third
oz. of salt; one oz. of sugar; one lb. of sifted flour; sixteen fair-
sized eggs, and a tablespoonful of orange-flower water.

Procedure.— Put the water, butter, salt, and sugar in a sauce-
pan and boil. When the liquid boils and rises, take the saucepan
off the fire ; add the flour, and mix. Return the saucepan to a
moderate fire, and stir the paste until it ceases to stick to the
spoon, and the butter begins to ooze slightly.

Take the saucepan off the fire ; add the eggs, two at a time,
taking care to mix each couple thoroughly with the paste before
inserting the succeeding couple. When all the eggs have been
absorbed, finish the paste with orange-flower water.

2374— COMMON PATE A CHOUX (For Scuffled Fritters,

Qnochi, Potatoes k la Dauphine)

Proceed as directed above, but reduce the quantity of butter
to three oz., and the number of eggs to twelve; avoid drying
this paste overmuch.

2375— RAMEQUINS AND QOUQfeRE PASTE

This is prepared exactly like ordinary " Pate h Choux,"
except that : —

1. Milk takes the place of water.

2. The sugar and orange-flower water are omitted,

3. For the quantities given (No. 2373), eight oz. of fresh
Gruy^re, cut into dice, are added to the paste, after all the eggs
have been added to it.

2376— PATE a q6N0I5E FINE

Put into a copper basin one lb. of powdered sugar and

sixteen eggs. Mix the two; place the basin upon hot cinders

or on the hob, and whisk its contents until they reach the

"ribbon" stage (see remarks below). Then add the selected

aroma (vanilla sugar, orange rind, or liqueur, in the proportion

of one tablespoonful of vanilla sugar or orange rind, and one

liqueur-glass of liqueur, to the quantities given above), twelve

oz. of sifted flour, and eight oz. of melted butter, the latter being

carefully poured into the paste without allowing it to bubble.

Mix these ingredients with the paste, raising the latter by means

of a spatula that it may not get heavy.

Bake it in buttered and dredged moulds.

Remarks, — A preparation of Biscuit or Genoise reaches the

702 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

" ribbon " stage when it becomes thick, draws out in ribbon-
form, and takes some time to level itself again when a spoon is
pulled out of it. This state of the paste is also indicative of its
lightness.

2377_ORDINARY QENOISE PASTE FOR CUTTING UP

Quantities. — One lb. of sugar, twelve eggs, thirteen oz, of
flour, eight oz. of butter, and the quantity of flavouring thought
sufficient.

Proceed exactly as in the preceding recipe, in everything
pertaining to the working of the paste.

This paste is baked in buttered and dredged cases, in which
it is spread in layers one and one-quarter inches thick, that it
may rise to about one and three-quarter inches thick, while
baking.

2378— LADY'S- FINGER BISCUIT PASTE

Stir one lb. of sugar and sixteen egg-yolks in a basin until
the preparation has whitened slightly and has reached the
ribbon stage. Now add a tablespoonful of orange-flower water;
mix therewith twelve oz. of sifted flour, followed by sixteen
egg-whites, whisked to a stiff froth. Take care to effect the
mixture by raising and cutting the preparation with the spatula,
that the former may be quite light.

To Shape the Biscuits. — Put the paste, little by little, into
a canvas piping-bag, fitted with a pipe of one-half inch bore.
Close the bag; lay the biscuits on sheets of strong paper;
sprinkle them with powdered sugar, and rid them of any super--
fluous sugar by holding the sheets end upwards.

Jerk a few drops of water upon the biscuits by means of
a moistened brush in order to assist the beading of the sugar,
and remember that a very moderate oven is the best for the
effecting of this beading.

2379— SAVOY- BISCUIT PASTE

Stir one lb. of sugar and fourteen egg-yolks in a basin until
the preparation reaches the ribbon stage. Flavour with vanilla
sugar; add six oz. of very dry, sifted flour mixed with six oz.
of fecula, and finally mix therewith the fourteen egg-whites,
which should be in a very stiff froth.

Carefully set the preparation in buttered and fecula-dredged
moulds, filling the latter only two-thirds full, and leaving the
remaining third to be covered by the rising of the paste while
baking.

Bake in a regular, moderate oven.

ENTREMETS 703

3380— pAte a biscuit manque

Stir one lb. of sugar with eighteen egg-yolks in a basin
until the preparation is white and light. Add three table-
spoonfuls of rum, thirteen oz. of sifted flour, and ten oz. of
melted butter, carefully poured away. Mix, raising it with
the spatula in so doing.

Set the preparation in special buttered and dredged moulds,

filling the latter only two-thirds full with it. Bake in a

moderate oven.

2381— PUNCH BISCUIT PASTE

Stir one lb. of sugar, twelve egg-yolks, and three eggs in a
basin, until the whole becomes frothy. Aromatise with a bare
tablespoonful of orange sugar, the same amount of lemon
sugar, and three tablespoonfuls of best rum, and add
twelve oz. of sifted flour, ten oz. of melted butter, and the
whites of eight eggs whisked to a stiff froth. Mix with the
usual precautions, that the paste may not be heavy.

Bake the preparation in buttered moulds, in cases or in

rings, according to the purpose it is intended for. Use a

moderate oven.

2382— ORDINARY MERINQUE

Whisk the whites of eight eggs until they are as stiff as it is
possible to make them. Sprinkle them with one lb. of pow-
dered sugar, and mix them with the latter carefully, that they
may retain all their lightness.

2383— MERINQUE A L'lTALIENNE

Cook one lb. of sugar to the large-ball stage, and meanwhile
whisk the whites of eight eggs to a stiff froth, so as to have
them ready simultaneously with the sugar.

Pour the cooked sugar into the egg-whites, slowly and with-
out a pause, and mix up briskly with the whisk.

2384— MERINQUE A L'lTALIENNE (another recipe)

Mix one lb. of very best powdered sugar and the whites of

eight eggs in an untinned copper basin. Place the utensil on

hot cinders or on the side of the stove, that the preparation may

be lukewarm while in progress.

Whisk the meringue until it is sufficiently consistent to span
the members of the whisk. If it is not to be used at once,
transfer the paste to a small basin ; cover it with a round piece
of paper, and set it in the cool.

2385— ALMOND PASTE

Instead of the antiquated and difficult method of making
almond pastes in the mortar, a crushing machine is now used

704 GUIDE TO MODiERN COOKERY

which not only yields a much smoother paste, but also greatly
simplifies the work. Almond paste, which consists of almonds,
sugar, and egg-whites, in quantities varying in accordance with
the purpose of the paste, is now sold ready-made. It has only
to be finished with a little sugar, white of egg, and other
things, subject to the use to which it is to be put.

2386— MELTING ALMOND PASTE (For Stuffing and
Imitating Fruit)

Pass eight oz. of dry, skinned almonds through the crusher.

Place them in the mortar, together with the selected aromatic
essence; either a tablespoonful of vanilla sugar or a small
glassful of liqueur; and add to them, little by little, working the
while with the pestle, one lb. of sugar cooked to the small-
crack stage.

With this generic recipe, the melting paste may be varied
at will by an increase or decrease in the quantity of sugar.

2387— PISTACHIOS

These should belong to the pastry-cook's stock, but, as a
rule, they are only prepared just before being served. To skin
them, proceed as in the case of almonds.
2388— PISTACHIO PASTE FOR INFUSION

As soon as the pistachios are skinned, washed, and dried,
crush them in the mortar to a very smooth paste, which set in
boiled milk, to infuse.

As the colour' of pistachios is weak, it is strengthened in
preparations containing them with a few drops of vegetable
green, while its aroma is thrown into relief with a trifle of
vanilla.

2389— MELTING PISTACHIO PASTE

Put seven oz. of pistachios and two oz. of almonds through
the crusher; both should have been just skinned. Put the
paste into the mortar; add to it two tablespoonfuls of syrup,
strongly flavoured with vanilla, followed by eight oz. of sugar,
cooked to the small-crack stage, and added to the paste little
by little.

Transfer the paste to a marble slab, and finish it by com-
bining three tablespoonfuls of icing sugar with it.

The Preparation and Cooking of Various Pastry Crusts

USED IN Cookery
2396— VOL=AU. VENT CRUST

Prepare the puff-paste as directed under No. 2366. Make
(he layer of paste of an even thickness of four-fifths inch; set

ENTREMETS 705

thereon an overturned plate or a saucepan-lid, the size of which
should be that intended for the Vol-au-vent, and cut the paste
obliquely, following round the edges of the lid or plate with a
small knife. Turn the layer of paste over, and set it on a
slightly moistened round baking sheet; groove it all round;
gild it, and describe a circle on top of it with the point of a
knife, one and one-quarter inches away from the edge, to form
the cover of the Vol-au-vent. Streak this cover criss-cross-
fashion ; also streak the body of the Vol-au-vent with the point
of a small knife, and bake it in a rather hot oven.

Upon withdrawing the Vol-au-vent from the oven, remove
its cover, and clear it of the soft crumb which will be found on
its inside.

2391— BOUCHEE OR SMALL-PATTY CRUSTS

Bouch^es are really small Vol-au-vents. Roll out the paste,
making it a good one-third inch thick. Cut this layer with a
grooved round cutter three inches in diameter ; set the roundels
of stamped-out paste on a moistened tray; gild, and make a
circular incision in each of them, one-half inch from their edges,
either with the point of a small knife or with an even, round
cutter dipped in hot water.

Bake in a hot oven, and clear the insides of the bouch^es of
their crumb on taking them out of the oven. " Mignonnes
Bouch^es," which are used as a garnish, are stamped out with
a round cutter two inches in diameter, and are slightly thicker
than ordinary bouch^es.

2392— SMALL HOT PATTIES

Roll out the puff-paste to a thickness of one-sixth inch, and
stamp it out with an even round cutter three inches in diameter.
With the trimmings resulting from this operation, rolled some-
what more thinly, make an equal quantity of roundels, and lay
them on a tray. Slightly moisten the edges of these roundels
with a brush ; garnish their centres with some forcemeat, rolled
to the size of a hazel-nut ; cover the forcemeat with the roundels
stamped out from the first; press upon these with the back of
a round cutter two inches in diameter; gild them, and bake
them in a hot oven for twelve or fourteen minutes.

2393— croOtes et crolstades

For tartlet crusts, which are put to various uses, take either
even or grooved, large or small moulds, subject to the require-
ments.

Roll out a piece of short paste to a thickness of one-fifth inch ;
stamp it out with a grooved round cutter of a size in proportion
to the moulds used; line the buttered moulds with these roundels

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7o6 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

of paste; pierce the paste on the bottom of each with the point
of a small knife; line with good-quality paper; fill up with
lentils, split peas, or rice, and bake in a moderate oven. When
the paste is baked, withdraw the dry vegetable used and the
paper, and place the crusts in the drying-box, that they may
be quite dry; or gild them inside, and set them in the front of
the oven for a few minutes.

2394— TIMBALE CRUST

Butter a Charlotte-mould, and decorate its sides with some
sort of design made from noodle-paste trimmings to which a
little powdered sugar has been added. Shape a piece of short
paste (of a size in proportion to the mould) like a ball; roll it
out to a disc; sprinkle it with flour, and fold it in two. Draw
the ends gently towards the centre, so as to form a kind of
skullcap, and take care to not crease the paste. Make this
skullcap of an even thickness of one-third inch, and place it in
the mould.

Press it well upon the bottom and sides of the mould, that
it may acquire the shape of the latter; line the mould inside
with good buttered paper; fill up with lentils or split peas,
letting them project in a dome above the edges of the paste, and
cover with a round sheet of paper.

Prepare a round layer of paste, one-fifth inch thick, a little
larger diametrally than the timbale one. Slightly moisten the
inside edges of the timbale; cover it with the prepared disc of
paste, and seal it well down to the edges of the timbale, pressing
it between, the fingers in such wise as to form a crest reaching
one-half inch beyond the brim of the mould all round.

Pinch this crest with paste-pincers inside and out.

With a round or oval grooved fancy-cutter stamp out some
imitation leaves from a very thin layer of paste, and imitate
the veins of the leaves with the back of a knife; or stamp
out some triangles of paste; shape them like leaves, and set
these (slightly overlapping one another) upon the dome of the
timbale in superposed rows.

Finish with three roundels of paste, stamped out with a
grooved round cutter of a different size from the first, and make
a hole in the centre of each roundel with a round, even fancy-
cutter. Gild and bake in a moderate oven. When the outside
of the timbale is well browned, detach and remove the cover
formed by the leaves. Withdraw the split peas and the paper;
gild the timbale inside, and leave it to dry in the front of the
oven or in the drying-box.

ENTREMETS 707

2395— FLAWN CRUST

With short or any other kind of paste prepare a layer one-
sixth inch thick, the diameter of which should be one-fourth as
long again as that of the flawn-ring used. Raise this layer, and
place it upon the previously-buttered flawn-ring, pressing it with
the fingers, that it may assume the shape of the mould. Then
roll the pin across the ring, in order that the overlapping paste
may be cut away; press the thickness of paste that has been
formed between the fingers in such a way as to make it project
above the edges of the flawn-ring, and form a regular crest.
Pinch this crest with the pastry pincers, and set the flawn-ring
on a small round baking sheet.

Prick it with the point of a small knife; line its bottom and
sides with slightly-buttered, good paper; fill the ring with dry
lentils or split peas, and bake in a moderately hot oven for
about twenty-five minutes.

Then remove the lentils and paper, as also the ring, and
return the flawn to the oven for a few minutes to brown, if it
is not already sufficiently coloured.

If the paste be required very dry, place the flawn in the
drying-box for a little while, or gild it inside, and set it in the
front of the oven for a few minutes.

2396— THE LINING AND COVERING OF RAISED

AND DRESSED PIES

The moulds for Raised Pies are oval or round. If they are
round, make a layer of patty paste, one-half inch thick, in pro-
portion to the size of the mould.

Sprinkle this paste with flour, fold it in two, and shape it
like a skullcap, after the manner described under " Timbale
Crust." It is only necessary to press this skullcap of paste
into the buttered mould in order to give it the shape of the
latter. If the mould is oval, proceed in the same way, giving
the skullcap an oval shape.

When the raised pie is filled, first cover the garnish with
a somewhat thin, round, or oval layer of paste, in accordance
with the shape of the mould, and seal it well down upon the
moistened edges. Then cut away the superfluous paste of the
crest, so as to make the latter even and neat, and pinch it out-
side and in. Raised pies are covered in two ways — either
with a layer of puff-paste, or with leaves of paste stamped
out with a round cutter or a knife, the veins being imitated
with the back of a knife.

In the first case, prepare a layer of puff-paste one-third inch
thick, equal in size to the inside of the patty. Drop this layer

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7o8 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

of paste upon the cover of the pie, after having slightly moist-
ened it; gild and streak it, and make a slit in the top for the
escape of steam.

In the second case, prepare the paste leaves as directed above,
and la}' them on the pie (slightly overlapping one another) in
superposed rows, starting from the bottom. On the top of the
pie set three or four indented roundels of paste, graduated in
size, and stuck one upon the other, each roundel having a hole
in its centre for the escape of steam.

Gild and set the pie in the oven.

The baking of raised pies made with raw forcemeat is effected
in a moderately-heated oven. Bear in mind that the larger the
pie is, the more moderate should be the oven.

VARIOUS CUSTARDS
Hot Custards

2397— CREME ANQLAISE

This custard allows of various methods of preparation which
are subject to the purpose for which it is intended. It is the
chief sauce for entremets, and whether it be poached in a deep
dish or in a mould, it constitutes one of the oldest and best-
known entremets. This last kind of custard will be examined
hereafter. At present I shall only deal with the variety
used either as a sauce or an accompaniment, cold or hot. It
is extremely difficult to prescribe lixed quantities for this
custard, for the former depend a great deal upon the consumers'
tastes, and, whereas some like a thick custard, others go to the
extreme of wishing it just liquid enough to be drunk like any
other beverage.

The quantities given below are suited to a custard of medium
consistence, but if a thicker custard were desired, the number
of egg-yolks would have to be proportionately increased, and
vice-versa.

The quantity of sugar also varies, subject to the consumers'
tastes, and, as the amount used (except in the case of unreason-
able excess) does not affect the consistence of the custard, it
may be graduated from three to ten or twelve oz. per quart, as
taste may dictate. Six oz. of sugar per quart of milk constitutes
a happy medium.

English custard admits of all the aromatic essences used for
entremets, but the one which suits it best is vanilla. When this
last-named flavour or that of filberts, almond pralin, or coffee
is used, it is well to put the required quantity to infuse for

ENTREMETS 709

twenty minutes in the boiling milk, after the latter has been
measured off. Chocolate is first melted and then gradually
added to the custard before it is cooked. Other aromatic essences
or liqueurs are added to the custard after it has been strained.

English custard admits of two methods of preparation : —

Recipe A. — Put twelve raw egg-yolks and three-quarters lb.
of powdered sugar in a bowl. Mix the sugar a little with the
yolks, and stir the latter briskly with a spatula until they have
entirely absorbed the sugar, and the resulting paste is white
and has reached the ribbon stage. Then pour one quart of
boiling milk into the paste, little by little, mixing the whole
the while with a whisk. Then put the preparation on the fire,
stirring it with a spatula, and cook it until it approaches the
boil and properly coats the withdrawn spoon. Take care not
to let it boil, for this would turn the preparation. In an)'^
case, when the sauce is intended for hot sweets, by adding a
tablespoonful of arrowroot, it may be prevented from turning.

When the custard is cooked, as already explained, strain it,
either through a strainer, into a bain-marie, if it is to be served
hot, or through a sieve into a large, enamelled basin, where
it should be frequently stirred to be kept smooth while cooling.

Custard prepared in this way forms the base of all ice-
creams, of which I shall speak later on. It may serve as an
adjunct to all cold or hot sweets which allow of a sauce. When,
while it is still lukewarm, it is combined with its weight of best
butter, it constitutes the delicious butter cream, which is the
richest and most delicate of the pastry-cook's confections.

Finally, if eight melted gelatine leaves per quart of cooled
milk be added to it, and it be mixed with twice its volume of
whipped cream, it represents the preparation for " Cream
Bavarois " and " Russian Charlottes."

Recipe B. — Melt six oz. of sugar in one quart of milk; boil,
and pour the mixture, little by little, over twelve egg-yolks,
whisking the latter briskly the while. When this custard is to
be moulded, or is intended for a Cabinet Pudding, or some other
similar preparation, which must be ultimately poached, strain
it as soon as it is mixed, without cooking it.

If, on the other hand, it be intended for an accompaniment,
or for the preparation of butter creams or ices, cook it as directed
in Recipe A.

2398— DISHED ENGLISH CUSTARD (To Accompany

Cold or Hot Stewed Fruit)

For this purpose English custard is made from only ten egg-
yolks per quart of milk. Serve it in shallow silver or porcelain

7IO GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

dishes; sprinkle its surface copiously with icing sugar, and
criss-cross it with a red-hot iron.
2399— PRANQIPAN CREAM

As in the case of English custard, Frangipan custard varies
in the quantities of its ingredients in accordance with its pur-
pose and the taste of its consumers. The recipe given below is
an average one, which the reader will be able to modify, in
regard to consistence, by increasing or decreasing the amount of
flour.

Mix one-half lb. of powdered sugar, two oz. of flour, two
whole eggs, and the yolks of five in a basin. Pour one pint of
boiling milk over this paste, stirring it briskly the while ; add
a grain of salt and the selected aromatic essence, and set the
saucepan on the fire, that the Frangipan may cook. Do not
cease stirring this cream while it is cooking, for it easily
burns.

Let it boil a few minutes ; pour it into a bowl, and combine
three oz. of fresh butter and two tablespoonfuls of dry, crushed
macaroons with it. When the whole is well mixed, smooth
the surface of the custard with a well-buttered spoon, so that no
crust may form while the cooling progresses.

2400— FRANGIPAN FOR FRIED CREAM

Proceed as above, but so apportion the quantities as to
obtain a very firm cream. The quantities should be as
follows : — Six oz. of flour, six oz. of sugar, ten egg-yolks, four
whole eggs, one quart of milk, and one oz. of butter.

When this cream is cooked, spread it in a layer one inch
thick on a buttered tray or on a marble slab ; carefully butter
its surface, and let it cool before using it.

Cold Custards
2401— PASTRY CREAM

Mix one lb. of powdered sugar with four oz. of flour and
twelve egg-yolks, and dilute with one quart of boiling milk.
Cook this cream, stirring it continually the while ; and, as soon
as it boils, add to it a few drops of orange-flower water and
four gelatine leaves, softened in cold water. Boil the cream
a few minutes ; take it off the fire, and, while stirring it briskly,
carefully combine with it twelve egg-whites, beaten to a stiff
froth.

N.B. — Some operators call this St. Honord cream (for, as
a matter of fact, it serves chiefly in the garnishing of sweets
bearing that name), and give the name of Pastry cream to the

ENTREMETS 711

same preparation minus the egg-whites and the gelatine. I
prefer to abide by the principle given above, and to consider
the cream without whisked egg-whites merely as a Frangipan,
with which it has many points in common.

Pastry cream may be flavoured according to fancy. The
addition of the gelatine is not necessary when the cream is to
be served immediately, or when it only has a moment or two
to wait. But it is indispensable to prevent the decomposition
of the preparation, especially in hot weather, if it have to wait
at all.

3402— WHIPPED OR CHANTILLY CREAM

Nothing could be simpler or more exquisite than this pre-
paration, which is obtained by whipping the best cream (kept
fresh for twenty-four hours in ice) over ice. The cream speedily
increases in volume and becomes frothy. The operation should
then be stopped, lest the cream turn to butter, and there should
be immediately added to the former four oz. of powdered sugar
(part of which should be the vanilla kind) per quart, and then
the preparation should be placed in the cool until required.

N.B. — The addition of a little dissolved or powdered traga-
canth gum to the cream allows of a more frothy cream being
obtained, but the result is neither as fresh nor as perfect in
taste when it is not combined with a sweet or ice preparation.

Various Preparations for Entremets
2403— PREPARATIONS FOR PANCAKES AND PANNEQLETS

Preparation A. — Put into a basin one lb. of sifted flour, six oz.
of powdered sugar, and a pinch of table-salt. Dilute with ten
eggs and one quart of milk, added by degrees. Flavour with one
heaped tablespoonful of orange, lemon or vanilla sugar, which
should form part of the total weight of sugar prescribed ; or with
one-eighth pint of some liqueur such as brandy, kirsch, rum, &c.,
which should form part of the total moistening.

Preparation B. — Dilute one lb. of flour, three and one-half oz.
of powdered sugar and a pinch of salt, with nine eggs and a half-
pint of cream. Add one-eighth pint of brandy, two and a half-
oz. of melted butter and one and a half-pints of milk. Pass the
whole through a fine strainer, and finish it with one-eighth pint of
orgeat syrup (or almond milk) and three oz. of finely-crushed
macaroons.

Preparation C. — Dilute one lb. of flour, three and a half oz. of
powdered sugar and a pinch of table salt in nine eggs. Stir the

712 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

mixture well ; add to it a half-pint of raw cream and one pint of
milk. Finish with a half-pint of whipped cream, and flavour as
fancy may suggest.

Preparation D. — Dilute one lb. of flour, three and a half oz. of
powdered sugar and a pinch of salt, in five eggs and the yolks of
three. Add one and three-quarter pints of milk and five egg-
whites whisked to a stiff froth.

Flavour according to fancy.

2404— RICE PREPARATION FOR ENTREMETS

Wash one lb. of Carolina or Patna rice ; cover it with plenty of
cold water ; boil, and drain it the moment it has boiled. Wash it
once more in lukewarm water ; drain it, and set it to cook with
two pints of boiled milk, two-thirds lb. of sugar, a pinch of salt
and three oz. of butter.

Flavour with a stick of vanilla or a few strips of orange or
lemon rind, strung together with cotton. When the liquor begins
to boil, cover the saucepan ; place it in the oven, and let it cook
gently for twenty or twenty-five minutes, without once touching
the rice the while.

On withdrawing it from the oven, thicken it with the yolks of
sixteen eggs, which should be mixed with it by means of a fork
in such wise as not to break the rice grains, which ought to
remain whole.

N.B. — In some cases, the milk and the sugar may be re-
placed (for the cooking process) by an equal amount of syrup at
12" (Saccharometer).

3405— SOUFFLE PREPARATIONS

Souffle preparations are of two kinds : —

(i) Those prepared with cream, which if necessary may serve
for all souffles ; (2) those with a fruit-pur^e base, which allow of
a more pronounced flavour for fruit souff.es than if these were
prepared with cream.

Cream-souffle Preparation for Four People. — Boil one-sixth pint
of milk with one oz. of sugar ; add a tablespoonful of flour
diluted in a little cold milk ; cook for two minutes, and finish,
away from the fire, with a piece of butter the size of a walnut, and
two egg-yolks with three whites whisked to a stiff froth.

Souffle Preparation for a Big Party. — Thoroughly mix half-lb.
of flour, half-lb. of sugar, four eggs and the yolks of three, in a
saucepan. Dilute with one quart of boiling milk ; add a stick of
vanilla ; boil, and cook for two minutes, stirring incessantly
the while.

ENTREMETS 713

Finish, away from the fire, with four oz. of butter, five cgg-
yolks, and twelve whites, whisked to a very stiff froth.

Souffli Preparation with a Fruit Base. — Take one lb. of sugar
cooked to the small-crack stage ; add thereto one lb. of the pulp
or pur^e of the fruit under treatment, and ten egg-whites, beaten
to a stiff froth.

Proceed thus : Having cooked the sugar to the extent stated
above, add to it the fruit pulp. If the latter reduces the sugar
a stage or two, cook it afresh in order to return it to the small-
crack stage ; and, when this is reached, pour it over the whites.

Dishing and Cooking of Soufflis. — Whatever the souffles may
consist of, dish them in a timbale, or in a special false-bottomed
dish, buttered and sugared inside. Cook in a somewhat moderate
oven, that the heat may reach the centre of the soufHe by degrees.

Two minutes before withdrawing the soufifld from the oven,
sprinkle it with icing sugar, which, when it becomes caramel
upon the surface of the souffl6, constitutes the glazing.

The decoration of souffles is optional, and, in any case, should
not be overdone.

Hot Sauces for Entremets

2406— ENGLISH SAUCE

See the Custard recipe (No. 2397).

2407— CHOCOLATE SAUCE

Dissolve half-lb. of grated chocolate in two-thirds pint of water.
Add a tablespoonful of vanilla sugar ; cook gently for twenty-five
minutes, and complete at the last moment with three table-
spoonfuls of cream and a piece of best butter, the size of a
walnut.

2408— SABAYON

Mix one lb. of powdered sugar with twelve egg-yolks, in a
basin, until the mixture has whitened slightly. Dilute with one
quart of dry, white wine ; pour the whole in a narrow bain-marie,
which should be placed in a receptacle containing boiling water,
and whisk it until it is four times its former size, and is firm
and frothy.

N.B. — Sabayon may also be made with milk instead of white
wine, and it may be flavoured according to fancy.

2409— FRUIT SAUCE

Apricots, red-currants, greengages and mirabelle plums are the
best fruits for sweet sauces. Other fruits, such as peaches, William

714 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

pears, apples, &c., may also be used in the form of light purees
or cullises.

2410— APRICOT SAUCE

Rub some very ripe or stewed apricots through a sieve, and thin
the pur^e with the required quantity of syrup at 28° (Saccharom.).
Boil, skimming carefully the while ; take off the fire when the
sauce veneers the withdrawn spoon, and flavour according to fancy.

If this sauce is to be used with crusts, a little best butter may
be added to it.

2411— RED-CURRANT SAUCE

Melt some red-currant jelly and flavour it with kirsch.
This sauce may be slightly thickened with arrowroot.

2412— SAUCE ORANGE

Rub some orange marmalade through a sieve ; add thereto
one-third of its bulk of apricot sauce, and flavour with Curasao.

2413— HAZEL-NUT SAUCE

Flavour some English custard with an infusion of grilled hazel-
nuts, and add two tablespoon fuls of moulded filbert pralin per
quart of custard.

2414— GREENQAQE OR MIRABELLE SAUCE

Proceed as for apricot sauce and flavour with kirsch.

2415— CHERRY SAUCE

Take the syrup of some stewed cherries, add an equal quantity
of red-currant jelly, and flavour with kirsch.

2416— RASPBERRY SAUCE

Take the required quantity of melted raspberry jelly ; thicken
it slightly with arrowroot, and flavour with kirsch.

2417— STRAWBERRY SAUCE

Proceed as for No. 2416.

2418— THICKENED SYRUPS

These accompaniments of sweets, which are commonly used in
Germany, have this in their favour, that they are economical ; but
they should be used in moderation. To make them, take some
syrup at 15°, thickened with arrowroot, coloured according
to the purpose for which it is required, and flavoured with some
liqueur or essence at the last moment.

It is with this kind of sauce that flawns and all other sorts of
tartlets are coated in northern countries.

ENTREMETS 715

HOT SWEETS

Fritters

The numerous fritter recipes for sweets may all be grouped into
five leading classes, viz. : —
(i) Fruit fritters.

(2) Custard fritters.

(3) Viennese fritters.

(4) Soufifldd fritters.

(5) Sundry other fritters which are more or less like the four
former ones without entirely resembling them.

3419— C/ass /. FRESH FRUIT AND FLOWER FRITTERS

Subject to the treatment undergone by them, fruits for fritters
are of two kinds : firm fruits, such as apples and pears, and aqueous
fruits, such as strawberries, &c.

2420— FRITTERS OF FRUIT WITH FIRM PULPS

Ex. APRICOT FRITTERS

Select some apricots that are not over-ripe ; cut them in two ;
sprinkle them with sugar, and set them to macerate for an hour
in kirsch, brandy, or rum, subject to the consumers' tastes. A few
minutes before serving, dry the halved apricots, dip them in batter
(No. 234), and fry them in hot fat. Drain them on a napkin ; set
the fritters on a tray ; cover them with icing sugar, and glaze them
in a hot oven or at the salamander. Dish them on a napkin, and
serve them at once.

N.B. — ^Proceed in precisely the same way for Apple, Pear, Peach,
or Banana fritters.

2421— AQUEOUS-FRUIT FRITTERS
Ex. STRAWBERRY FRITTERS

Select some large, somewhat firm strawberries ; sugar them
copiously ; sprinkle them with kirsch, and let them macerate on
ice for thirty minutes.

It is most essential that the strawberries be well sugared before
macerating, because the heat of the fat sours them while the fritters
are being fried, and they consequently become tart.

A few minutes before serving, drain the strawberries, dip them
in batter (No. 234), and plunge them into very hot fat. Drain them,
dish them on lace paper, and sprinkle them with icing sugar, by
means of a dredger.

7i6 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

N.B. — The procedure is the same for Raspberry, Red-currant,
Cherry, Orange, and Tangerine fritters. For the last-named, it is
better to quarter them and peel them raw, than to slice them.

2433— FLOWER FRITTERS. Ex. ACACIA- FLOWER FRITTERS

Select some blown acacia flowers ; besprinkle them with sugar
and liqueur brandy, and leave them to macerate for thirty
minutes.

Dip them in batter (No. 234) ; plunge them into plenty of hot
fat ; drain them ; sprinkle them with best sugar and dish them
on a napkin.

N.B. — Proceed as above for Elder-flower, Lily, and Vegetable-
marrow-flower fritters ; but in the case of the last two, the
quartered corollae, alone, are used.

2433— CUSTARD FRITTERS OR FRIED CREAM

Custard fritters may be prepared in the three following totally
different ways.

\st Method. — Cut up preparation No. 2400 with a round, square, or
lozenge-shaped fancy cutter, as taste may dictate. Treat the resulting
pieces of custard twice d, tanglaise, using very fine and fresh bread-
crumbs for the purpose. Press upon the bread-crumbs with the
blade of a knife that they may adhere properly, and fry the pieces
of cream in very hot fat. On taking the fritters out of the fat,
sprinkle them with icing sugar, and dish them on a napkin.

N.B. — Instead of treating these fritters a I'anglaise, they may be
dipped into batter and treated as directed in the case of Apricot
fritters.

2nd Alethod. — Prepare a custard as for a " creme renvers^e "
(No. 2639), using only whole eggs, that it may be firm ; and poach
it in a utensil of a shape which will facilitate the cutting-up of the
preparation. When the latter is quite cool, cut it up as fancy may
suggest ; dip the pieces in batter (No. 234) and plunge them in
plenty of hot fat. Drain them on a piece of linen ; sprinkle them
with icing sugar ; glaze them in a fierce oven, and dish them on a
napkin.

"^rd Method. — Prepare some common-shaped meringues, and
keep them very dry.

When they have cooled, open them slightly on top, and, through
the hole in each, fill them either with a Bavarois preparation, with
some kind of ice-cream, or with a fruit salpicon thickened with
stewed apricots or plums. Close the holes with the pieces that
were cut out, and place the meringues in the refrigerator for
an hour.

ENTREMETS 717

When about to serve them, quickly treat them d Panglaise ; set
them (opened side uppermost) in a frying-basket, and dip them for a
few seconds in smoking fat. Withdraw them as soon as their crusts
have acquired a golden colour ; sprinkle them with icing sugar ;
dish them on a napkin, and serve them immediately.

2434— VIENNESE FRITTERS

Quantities for the paste of Viennese fritters : one lb. of flour ;
six oz. of butter ; half oz. of yeast ; five eggs ; half oz. of salt ;
two-third oz. of sugar ; and one-sixth pint of milk. This paste is
prepared exactly like Brioche paste (No. 2368).

In any case, as it has to be worked with the rolling-pin, always
keep it a little firm.

2425— HOT VIENNESE FRITTERS

Roll out a piece of the paste given above to a thickness of
one-fifth inch.

Spread upon it, at regular intervals, small quantities (about the
size of a large walnut) either of stewed fruit or jam. Moisten
slightly ; cover with a second layer of paste, of the same size and
thickness as the former ; press upon it with the back of a round
cutter, so as to ensure the joining of the two layers of paste, and
then stamp the whole out with an even cutter two and a half inches
in diameter.

Set the fritters on a tray covered with a flour-dusted piece of
linen ; let the paste ferment for thirty minutes, and then fry them
in plenty of hot fat. Drain them ; sprinkle them with icing sugar
and dish them on a napkin.

N.B. — These fritters may be accompanied by frothy sauces,
flavoured with vanilla, lemon, orange, coffee, or kirsch, &c., the type
of which is the Sabayon with cream.

2426— COLD VIENNESE FRITTERS

Roll out a piece of the paste prescribed, which should be kept
somewhat soft, and stamp it out with a round cutter two and a
half inches in diameter. Set half of these roundels of paste on
buttered sheets of paper, lying on trays ; garnish them either with
stewed fruit or jam ; slightly moisten their edges ; cover them with
the remaining roundels of paste, and let the paste ferment for thirty
minutes.

A few minutes before serving, grasp the ends of the sheets of
paper ; plunge the fritters into plenty of hot fat, and withdraw the
sheets of paper as soon as the fritters fall from them.

7i8 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

Drain them as soon as they begin to colour ; and plunge them
immediately into a light, hot syrup, flavoured as fancy may dictate.
Withdraw them as soon as they are beginning to be saturated, and
serve them cold.

N.B. — In the case of either of these two methods of serving
Viennese fritters, the latter, which are served under the name of
" fritters a la Dauphine," may be garnished with fruit salpicons or
cream preparations.

SouFFLED Fritters

2427— ORDINARY SOUFFLED FRITTERS

Put one pint of water, three and a half oz. of butter, a pinch of
salt and two pinches of sugar into a saucepan. Boil ; take the
utensil off the fire in order to add two-thirds lb. of sifted flour, and
mix up the whole. Then dry this paste as directed for p^te a
choux (No. 2373); and finish it, away from the fire, with seven eggs,
added one by one.

Flavour according to taste.

Take this paste in portions, the size of small walnuts ; put these
portions in moderately hot fat, and gradually increase the heat of
the latter, so as to ensure the rising of the paste.

When the fritters are quite dry outside, drain them ; dish them
on a napkin, and sprinkle them with icing sugar.

2428— SOUFFLED FRITTERS "EN SURPRISE"

Prepare the fritters exactly like the preceding ones. When
taking them out of the fat, open them slightly and garnish them, by
means of the piping-bag, either with stewed fruit, jam, a very
fine, thickened salpicon of fruit, or some kind of cream, especially
frangipan or pastry cream.

Various Fritters

2429— PINEAPPLE FRITTERS "A LA FAVORITE"

Cut the pineapple into roundels, one-third inch thick ; cut each
roundel in two ; sprinkle the half- discs with sugar and kirsch, and
let them macerate for thirty minutes. Then dry them and dip them
into a very thick and almost cold frangipan cream, combined with
chopped pistachios. Set the cream-coated roundels on a tray, and
let them cool completelj'.

ENTREMETS 719

A little while before serving, detach the roundels from the
tray ; dip them in somewhat thin batter, and fry them in plenty of
hot fat.

Drain them ; sprinkle them with icing sugar ; glaze them in
a fierce oven, and dish them on a napkin.

2430— FRITTERS "A LA BOURQEOISE "

Cut a stale brioche crown into slices, one-third inch thick, and dip
these into fresh, sugared cream, flavoured according to fancy. Drain
them ; dry them slightly ; dip them into thin batter, and fry them
in very hot fat.

Drain them ; sprinkle them with sugar, and dish them on a
napkin.

2431— SYLV ANA FRITTERS

Hollow out some small round brioches, preserving the crusts
for covers, and dip them in some thin, sugared and flavoured fresh
cream. Then garnish them with a small fruit salpicon with kirsch ;
cover this with the reserved covers ; dip them into thin batter, and
fry them in plenty of hot fat.

Drain them ; dish them on a napkin, and sprinkle them with
icing sugar.

2432— FRITTERS "A LA GRAND'MERE "

Spread upon a moistened tray a layer half inch thick of very
reduced, stewed fruit. Cut it up according to fancy ; dip the pieces
in batter (No. 235), and fry them in plenty of hot fat.

On withdrawing the fritters from the fat, sprinkle them with
icing sugar and set them to glaze in a fierce oven.

2433— REQINA FRITTERS

Shape some lady's-finger biscuits (preparation No. 2378) into
large half-balls, one and a half inch in diameter ; bake these in a
moderate oven and cool them. Then hollow out these half-balls ;
garnish them with apricot or some other jam ; join them in couples,
and dip them so as to thoroughly soak them in some fresh cream
flavoured with miaraschino.

Drain them ; treat them d I'anglaise with very fine bread-crumbs,
and fry them in plenty of hot fat.

Drain them ; dish them on a napkin, and sprinkle them with
icing sugar.

2434— MINION FRITTERS

Proceed as above, but substitute for biscuit half-balls soft
macaroons, saturated with kirsch syrup. For the rest of the
operation, follow the procedure of No. 2433.

720 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

2435— FRITTERS A LA SUZON

Make a preparation of " rice for entremets," and spread it in
a thin layer upon a tray, to cool. Divide it up into discs three and
a half inches in diameter ; garnish the centre of these with a very
stiff fruit salpicon ; roll the discs into balls, so as to enclose the
salpicon ; dip these balls into thin batter, and fry them in plenty of
hot fat.

Drain them ; dish them on a napkin, and sprinkle them with
icing sugar.

Charlottes

2436— APPLE CHARLOTTE

Copiously butter a quart Charlotte-mould. Garnish its bottom
with heart-shaped croHtons of bread-crumb, slightly overlapping one
another ; and garnish its sides with rectangles of bread of exactly
the same height as the mould, and also slightly overlapping one
another. The croMons and the rectangles should be one-eighth inch
thick, and ought to have been dipped in melted butter before taking
their place in the mould.

Meanwhile, quarter twelve fine russet apples ; peel, slice, and
cook them in a sautepan with one oz. of butter, two tablespoonfuls
of powdered sugar, and half the rind of a lemon and a little
cinnamon — both tied into a faggot.

When the apples are cooked, and reduced to a thick pur^e,
remove the faggot of aromatics and add three tablespoonfuls of
stewed apricots.

Fill up the mould with this preparation, and remember to shape
the latter in a projecting dome above the mould ; for it settles in
cooking.

Bake in a good, moderate oven for from thirty to thirty-five
minutes.

2437— CHARLOTTE DE POMMES, EMILE GIRET

Prepare the Charlotte as directed above, but in a shallow mould.

When it is moulded on the dish, completely cover it with an
even coat, half inch thick, of very firm "pastry cream" (No. 2401),
and take care not to spoil the shape of the Charlotte.

Sprinkle the cream copiously with icing sugar ; then, with a
red-hot iron, criss-cross the Charlotte regularly all round ; pressing
the iron upon the sugar-sprinkled cream.

Surround the base of the Charlotte with a row of beads made,

ENTREMETS 721

by means of the piping-bag, from the same cream as thAt already
used.

2438— VARIOUS CHARLOTTES

Charlottes may be made with pears, peaches, apricots, &c., after
the same procedure as that directed under No. 2435. The most
important point to be remembered in their preparation is that the
stewed fruit used should be very stiff; otherwise it so softens
the shell of bread that the Charlotte collapses as soon as it is
turned out.

It is no less important that the mould should be as full as
possible of the preparation used ; for, as already explained, the
latter settles in the cooking process.

2439— CREME A LA REQENCE

Saturate half a pound of " Biscuits a la Cuiller " with Maraschino-
Kirsch, and then dip them into a quart of boiled milk. Rub them
through a silk sieve, and add eight eggs, ten egg-yolks, two-thirds
pound of powdered sugar and a small pinch of table salt. Pour
the whole into a shallow, Charlotte mould, and set to poach in a
bain-marie for about thirty-five minutes.

Let the mould rest for a few minutes ; turn out its contents on a
dish and surround the base of the cream with a crown of stewed
half-apricots, each garnished with a preserved cherry. Coat the
whole with an apricot syrup, flavoured with Kirsch and Maraschino.

3440— CREME MERINQU^E

Prepare some " Crfeme a la R^gence " as above, and poach it in
a buttered deep border-mould. Poach in a bain-marie ; turn out on
a dish, and garnish the middle of the border with Italian meringue
(No 2383), combined with a salpicon of preserved fruit, macerated
in Kirsch.

Decorate the border by means of a piping-bag, fitted with a
grooved pipe and filled with plain, Italian meringue, without the
fruit ; and set to brown in a moderate oven.

Serve an orange-flavoured, English custard separately.

2441— VILLAGE CUSTARD

Saturate five ounces of dry biscuits with Kirsch and Anisette,
and set them in a deep dish in layers, alternated with coatings of
stewed, seasonable fruit, such as pears, apples, etc.

Cover the whole with the following preparation : one-half pound
of powdered sugar mixed with eight eggs and the yolks of four, and

3 A

722 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

diluted with one and three-quarter pints of milk. Poach in a bain-
marie, in the oven.

2442— CUSTARD PUDDING

Custard pudding is a form of the English custard mentioned
under No. 2397.

The difference between the two is that for the former whole
eggs are used instead of the yolks alone, and that it is prepared
according to the second method only. The average quantities for
the preparation are :

Six eggs and six ounces of sugar per quart of milk. The
custard is cooked in pie-dishes in a bain-marie, which should be
placed in the oven or in a steamer.

According as to whether the custard be required milky or
thick, the number of eggs is either lessened or increased. In
regard to the sugar, the guide should be the consumers' tastes. If
necessary, it may be suppressed altogether, and saccharine or
glycerine may be used in its stead, as is customary for diabetic
patients.

Custard is generally flavoured with vanilla, but any other flavour
suited to sweets may be used with it.

Pancakes. (See preparations No. 2403.)

2443— CONVENT PANCAKES

Pour into a buttered and hot omelet-pan some preparation A ;
sprinkle thereon some William pears, cut into small dice ; cover
the latter with some more preparation A ; toss the pancake in
order to turn it ; sprinkle it with powdered sugar, dish it on a napkin,
and serve it burning-hot.

2444— GEORGETTE PANCAKES

Proceed as for Convent pancakes, but substitute for pear-dice
some very thin slices of pine-apple, macerated in Maraschino.

2445— GIL-BLAS PANCAKES

Make the following preparation : work three ounces of best
butter in a bowl until it acquires the consistence of a pomade. Mix
therewith three ounces of powdered sugar, three tablespoonfuls of
liqueur brandy, a piece of butter the size of a filbert, and a few drops
of lemon juice.

Make the pancakes with preparation C ; spread the prepared
butter upon them ; fold each pancake twice, and dish them on a
napkin.

ENTREMETS 723

3446— PANCAKES A LA NORMANDE

Proceed as for Convent Pancakes, but for the pear dice substi-
tute fine slices of apple, previously sauted in butter.

2447— PANCAKES A LA PARISIENNE

These are made from preparation B, and are ungarnished.

2448— PANCAKES A LA PAYSANNE

Make these from preparation B (the orgeat syrup and the
macaroons being suppressed), and flavour with orange-flower water.

2449— PANCAKES A LA RUSSE

Add to preparation C, a quarter of its volume of broken biscuits
saturated with kiimmel and liqueur brandy, and make the pancakes
in the usual way.

2450— SUZETTE PANCAKES

Make these from preparation A, flavoured with cura9oa and
tangerine juice. Coat them, like Gil-Bias pancakes, with softened
butter, flavoured with cura5oa and tangerine juice.

Croquettes.

2451— CHESTNUT CROQUETTES

Peel the chestnuts after one of the ways directed (No. 2172),
and cook them in a thin syrup, flavoured with vanilla. Reserve
one small, whole chestnut for each croquette. Rub the remainder
through a sieve; dry the pur^e over a fierce fire, and thicken it
with five egg-yolks and one and a half oz. of butter per lb. of
puree. Let it cool.

Then divide the preparation up into portions the size of pigeons'
eggs, and roll these portions into balls, with a chestnut in the centre
of each.

Treat them a Fanglaise with some very fine bread-crumbs ; fry
them in some very hot fat, and dish them on a napkin.

Serve a vanilla-flavoured apricot sauce, separately,

2452— RICE CROQUETTES

Make a preparation as directed under No. 2404. Divide it up
into two-oz. portions, moulded to the shape of such fruit as pears,
apples, apricots, etc. ; treat these ^ I'anglaise, like the chestnut
croquettes, and fry them in the same way.

Serve an apricot sauce or a vanilla-flavoured Sabayon
separately.

3 A 2

724 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

2453— VARIOUS CROQUETTES

Croquettes may also be made from tapioca, semolina, vermi-
celli or fresh noodles, etc., in which case the procedure is that of the
Rice Croquettes.

The preparation may be combined with currants and sultanas,
and the croquettes are served with any suitable sauce.

Crusts.

2454— CROClTE AUX FRUITS

Cut some slices one-fifth inch thick from a stale Savarin which
has not been moistened with syrup, and allow two for each person.
Set these slices on a tray ; sprinkle them with icing sugar, and
put them in the oven so as to dry and glaze them at the same time.
Arrange them in a circle round a cushion of fried bread-crumbs,
and between each lay a slice of pine-apple of exactly the same size
as the slices.

Upon this crown of crusts, set some quartered apples and some
stewed pears. The pears may be stewed in a pinkish syrup, which,
by varying the colours, makes the croute more sightly.

Decorate with preserved cherries, lozenges of angelica, quartered
yellow and green chinois, etc. Fix a small, turned and white or
pink pear on the top of the cushion, by means of a hatelet, and
coat with an apricot sauce, flavoured with Kirsch.

2455— CROUTE A LA LYONNAISE

Prepare the crusts as described above, and coat them with a
smooth chestnut purde, flavoured with vanilla ; then, cover them
with an apricot pur6e, cooked to the small-thread stage ; sprinkle
with finely-splintered and slightly- browned almonds, and dish in a
circle.

Garnish the middle of the circle with chestnuts cooked in syrup,
and pipped Malaga raisins, currants, and sultanas (washed and
swelled in tepid water) ; the whole cohered with an apricot pur^e
thinned with a few tablespoonsful of Malaga wine.

2456— CROUTE AU MADERE

Dish the glazed crusts in a circle as already described. Pour
into their midst a garnish consisting of equal parts of pipped,
Malaga raisins, currants, and sultanas, swelled in tepid water and
moistened with a Madeira-flavoured, apricot syrup.

2457— croCte a la marechale

Cut from a stale mousseline brioche, some triangles of the
same thickness as the ordinary crusts. Coat them with pralin

ENTREMETS

725

(No. 2352), and then set them on a tray ; sprinkle them with
sugar glaze, and dry the pralin in a moderate oven.

Stick a fried-bread-crumb cushion, four inches high, on a dish,
and surround it with a salpicon of pineapple, raisins, cherries, and
sugared orange-rind, cohered with some stiff stewed apples,
combined with a little apricot purfe. Set the pmUn-coated
triangles upright alongside of the salpicon, and surround them with
a border of half-pears, stewed in syrup, half their quantity being
white and the other pink.

On the top of the cushion, set a small pear, cooked in pink
syrup, which fix with a small hatelet, surround the border of half-
pears with a thread of apricot pur^e, flavoured slightly with vanilla,
and serve a sauceboat of the same pur^e separately.

2458— CROUTE A LA NORMANDE

Prepare the crusts as indicated under No. 2454, coat them with
very stiffly stewed apples, and dish them in a circle.

Garnish their midst with stewed apples, prepared as for a
Charlotte, and upon the apples set a pyramid of quartered, white
and pink apples, cooked in syrup. Cover with reduced apple
syrup, thickened with a little very smooth stewed apples flavoured
with Kirsch or old rum.

2459— CROOTE A LA PARISIENNE

Coat the crusts with pralin, as explained under No. 2457, and
dish them in a circle. In their midst set some thin slices of pine-
apple, the ends of which should rest upon the circle of crusts ; in
the middle, pour a garnish of various fruits, cohered with an
apricot puree, flavoured with Madeira, and coat the circle of
crusts with apricot syrup flavoured with Madeira.

2460— croOte aux abricots au marasquin

Cook some Savarin paste in buttered tartlet moulds. When
these tartlets are cooked, hollow them out at the top, taking care to
leave a somewhat thick border all round.

Coat them inside with pralin (No. 2352), and dry them in a
moderate oven. Then garnish the centre of the tartlets with
frangipan cream, combined with filbert pralin. Upon this cream
set a stoned apricot poached in Maraschino.

Surround the apricot with small, candied half-cherries, alter-
nated with lozenges of angelica. Serve an apricot sauce, flavoured
with Maraschino, separately.

2461— CROUTE VICTORIA

Prepare a crust after No. 2456, and garnish the centre with

726 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

candied cherries and glazed chestnuts. Serve an apricot sauce,
flavoured with rum, separately.

OMELETS.

Sweet omelets may be divided into four distinct classes, which
are : —

1. Liqueur omelets. 3. Souffl^d omelets.

2. Jam omelets. 4. Surprise omelets.

Omelets with Liqueur.

2462— Example'. OMELET WITH RUM

Season the omelet with sugar and a little salt, and cook it in
the usual way. Set it on a long dish, sprinkle it with sugar and
heated rum, and set a light to it on bringing it to the table.

Jam Omelets.

2463— Example : APRICOT OMELET

Season the omelet as above, and, when about to roll it up,
garnish it inside with two tablespoon fuls of apricot jam per six
eggs. Set on a long dish ; sprinkle with icing sugar, and either
criss-cross the surface with a red-hot iron or glaze the omelet at
the salamander.

2464— XMAS OMELET

Beat the eggs with salt and sugar and add, per six eggs : two
tablespoon fuls of cream, a pinch of orange or lemon rind, and one
tablespoonful of rum. When about to roll up the omelet, garnish
it copiously with mincemeat, set it on a long dish ; sprinkle it
with heated rum, and set it alight at the table.

SouFFLfiD Omelets.

2465— Example : SOUFFLED OMELET WITH VANILLA

Mix eight oz. of sugar and eight egg-yolks in a basin, until the
mixture has whitened slightly, and draws up in ribbons when the
spatula is pulled out of it. Add ten egg-whites, beaten to a very
stiff" froth, and mix the two preparations gently ; cutting and
raising the whole with the spoon.

Set this preparation on a long, buttered and sugar-dusted dish,
in the shape of an oval mound, and take care to put some of it
aside in a piping-bag.

ENTREMETS 727

Smooth it all round with the blade of a knife ; decorate
according to fancy with the contents of the piping-bag, and cook
in a good, moderate oven, for as long as the size of the omelet
requires.

Two minutes before withdrawing it from the oven, sprinkle it
with icing sugar, that the latter, when melted, may cover the
omelet with a brilliant coat.

Flavour according to fancy, with vanilla, orange or lemon rind,
rum, Kirsch, &c. ; but remember to add the selected flavour to the
preparation before the egg-whites are added to it.

Surprise Omelets.

2466— Example: NORWEGIAN OMELET

Place an oval cushion one and one half in. thick of G^noise
upon a long dish, and let the cushion be as long as the desired
omelet. Upon this cushion set a pyramid of ice-cream with fruit.
Cover the ice-cream with ordinary meringue (No. 2382) ; smooth
it with a knife, making it of an even thickness of two-thirds of an
inch in so doing ; decorate it, by means of the piping-bag, with
the same meringue, and set in a very hot oven, that the meringue
may cook and colour quickly, without the heat reaching the ice
inside.

2467— SURPRISE OMELET MYLORD

Proceed as directed above ; but garnish the cushion of G^noise
with coats of vanilla ice-cream,, alternated with coats of stewed
pears. Cover with meringue and cook in the same way.

3468— CHINESE SURPRISE OMELET

The procedure is the same, but the vanilla ice-cream is re-
placed by tangerine ice. On taking the omelet out of the oven,
surround it with tangerines glazed with sugar, cooked to the large-
crack stage.

3469— SURPRISE OMELET WITH CHERRIES

Garnish the cushion of G^noise with red-currant ice, fla-
voured with raspberries and mixed with equal quantities of
cherry ice and half-sugared cherries, macerated in Kirsch.

Finish it- like the Norwegian Omelet.

On taking it out of the oven, surround the omelet with
drained cherries, preserved in brandy, and sprinkle it with
heated Kirsch, to which set a light at the table.

728 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

3470— SURPRISE OMELET MILADY: also called
MILADY PEACH

This is a surprise omelet, garnished with very firm rasp-
berry ice, in which are incrusted a circle of fine peaches, poached
in vanilla.

The whole is then covered with Italian meringue, flavoured
with Maraschino, and laid in suchwise that those portions of
the peaches which project from the glaze remain bare.

Decorate the surface of the omelet with the same meringue;
sprinkle it with icing sugar, and set it to a glaze quickly.

2471— SURPRISE OMELET "A LA NAPOLITAINE "
otherwise " BOMBE VESUVE "

Garnish the cushion of G^noise with coats of vanilla and
strawberry ice, alternated with layers of broken candied-chest-
nut. Cover the whole with Italian meringue prepared with
Kirsch, which keep flat and somewhat thick towards the centre.
On top, set a barquette of a size in proportion to the omelet,
made by means of the piping-bag with ordinary meringue and
baked in the oven without colouration. Decorate with Italian
meringue, covering the barquette in so doing, and quickly brown
the omelet in the oven. When about to serve, garnish the
omelet with Jubilee cherries (No. 2566), which set alight at the
last moment.
2472— SURPRISE OMELET ELIZABETH

Garnish the cushion of Ginoise with vanilla ice and crystal-
lised-violets.

Cover it with meringue ; decorate its surface with crystallised-
violets, and treat the omelet as in No. 2466.

When about to serve it, cover the omelet with a veil of
spun sugar.

2473— SURPRISE OMELET " A L'ISLANDAISE "

Make the cushion of Genoise round instead of oval ; set it
on a round dish, and garnish it with some sort of ice, which
should be shaped like a truncated cone. Cover with meringue;
set a small case on the top, made from meringue, as explained
under No. 2471, but round instead of oval; conceal all but its
inside with meringue, decorating the omelet in so doing, and set
to brown quickly.

When about to serve, pour a glassful of heated rum into the
meringue case and set it alight.

2474— SYLPHS' OMELET

Dip a freshly-cooked savarin into a syrup of maraschino, and
stick it on a base of dry paste exactly equal in size.

ENTREMETS 729

In the centre of the savarin set a cushion of G^noise,
sufficiently thick to reach half-way up the former.

At the last moment, turn out upon this cushion an iced
strawberry mousse, made in an iced madeleine-mould, the diameter
of which should be that of the bore of the savarin. Cover the
mousse with a coat of Italian meringue with kirsch, shaping it like
a cone of which the base rests upon the top of the savarin.

By means of a piping-bag, fitted with a small pipe, quickly
decorate the cone, as also the savarin, with the same meringue ;
colour it in the oven, and serve it instantly.

2475— VARIOUS SURPRISE OMELETS

With the generic example given this kind of omelets may be
indefinitely varied by changing the ice preparation inside.

The superficial appearance remains the same, but every change
in the inside garnish should be made known in the title of the dish.

Pannequets.

2476— PANNEQUETS WITH JAM

Prepare some very thin pancakes ; coat them with some kind of
jam, roll them up, trim them aslant at either end, and cut them
into two lozenges.

Place these lozenges on a tray, sprinkle them with icing
sugar, set tliem to glaze in a fierce oven, and dish them on a
napkin.

2477— PANNEQUETS A LA CR6ME

Coat the pancakes with frangipan cream, and sprinkle the
latter with crushed macaroons. For the rest of the procedure
follow No. 2476.

2478— PANNEQUETS MERINGUES

Coat the pancakes with Italian meringue, flavoured with kirsch
and maraschino ; roll them up, cut them into lozenges as above,
and set them on a tray. Decorate them by means of the piping-
bag with the same meringue ; sprinkle them with icing sugar, and
set them to colour quickly in the oven.

2479— PUDDINGS

English puddings are almost innumerable ; but many of them
lie more within the pastrycook's than the cook's province, and their
enumeration here could not serve a very useful purpose. The name
Pudding is, moreover, applied to a whole host of preparations which
are really nothing more than custards — as, for example, " custard
pudding." If both of the foregoing kinds of puddings be passed over,
puddings proper which belong to hot sweets may be divided
into eight classes, of which I shall first give the generic recipes, from

730 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

which all pudding entremets given hereafter are derived. The
eight classes are : —

(i) Puddings with cream.

(2) Fruit puddings.

(3) English fruit puddings.

(4) Plum puddings.

(5) French and German bread puddings.

(6) English and French paste puddings.

(7) Rice puddings.

(8) Scuffled puddings.

Puddings allow of various accompanying sauces, which will be
given in each recipe. The majority of English puddings may be
accompanied by stewed fruit, Melba sauce, or whipped cream " a la
Chantilly."

Puddings with Cream.

3480— ALMOND PUDDING

Make a preparation for souffled pudding (No. 2505), but
moisten it with almond milk. Pour it into copiously-buttered
moulds, sprinkled inside with splintered and grilled almonds.

Set to poach in the bain-marie. As an accompaniment serve a
sabayon prepared with white wine and flavoured with orgeat.

3481— ENGLISH ALMOND PUDDING

Mix to the consistence of a pomade four oz. of butter and
five oz. of powdered sugar ; add eight oz. of finely-chopped
almonds, a pinch of table salt, a half table-spoonful of orange-
flower water, two eggs, two egg-yolks, and one-sixth pint of cream.
Pour this preparation into a buttered pie-dish, and cook in a bain-
marie in the oven.

N.B. — English puddings of what kind soever are served in the
dishes or basins in which they have cooked.

3482— BISCUIT PUDDING

Crush eight oz. of lady's-finger biscuits in a saucepan, and
moisten them with one pint of boiling milk containing five oz. of
sugar. Stir the whole over the fire, and add five oz. of candied
fruit, cut into dice and mixed with currants (both products having
been macerated in kirsch), three egg-yolks, four oz. of melted
butter, and the white of five eggs beaten to a stiff froth.

Set to poach in a bain-marie, in a low, even Charlotte mould,
or in a pie-dish, and serve an apricot sauce at the samp time.

2483— CABINET PUDDING

Garnish a buttered cylinder-mould with lady's-finger biscuits
or slices of buttered biscuit, saturated with some kind of liqueur ;

ENTREMETS 731

arranging them in alternate layers with a salpicon of candied fruit
and currants, macerated in liqueur. Here and there spread a little
apricot jam.

Fill up the mould, little by little, with preparation No. 2638,
flavoured according to fancy. Poach in a bain-marie.

Turn out the pudding at the last moment, and coat it with
English custard flavoured with vanilla.

2484— FRUIT PUDDING

This pudding requires very careful treatment. The custard
which serves as its base is the same as that of Cabinet Pudding,
except that it is thickened by seven eggs and seven egg-yolks per
quart of milk. This preparation is, moreover, combined with a
pur^e of fruit suited to the pudding.

Procedure : Butter a mould ; set it in a bain-marie, and pour a
few table-spoonfuls of the above preparation into it. Let it set, and
upon this set custard sprinkle a layer of suitable fruit, sliced. This
fruit may be apricots, peaches, pears, etc. Cover the fruit with a
fresh cpat of custard, but more copiously than in the first case ; let
this custard set as before ; cover it with fruit, and proceed in the
same order until the mould is full.

It is, in short, another form of aspic-jelly preparation, but hot
instead of cold. If the solidification of the layers of custard were
not ensured, the fruit would fall to the bottom of the mould instead
of remaining distributed between the layers of custard, and the
result would be the collapse of the pudding as soon as it was
turned out.

Continue the cooking in the bain-marie; let the preparation
stand a few minutes before turning it out, and serve at the same
time a sauce made from the same fruit as that used for the pudding.

English Fruit Puddings.

2485— APPLE PUDDINQ

Prepare a suet paste from one lb. of flour, ten oz. of finely-
chopped suet, quarter of a pint of water and a pinch of salt.

Let the paste rest for an hour, and roll it out to a thickness of
one-third of an inch.

With this layer of paste, line a well-buttered dome-mould or large
pudding-basin. Garnish with sliced apples mixed with powdered
sugar and flavoured with a chopped piece of lemon peel.

Close the mould with a well-sealed-down layer of paste ; wrap
the mould in a piece of linen, which should be firmly fastened with
string ; plunge it into a saucepan containing boiling water, and in

732 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

the case of a quart pudding-basin or mould, let it cook for about
three hours.

N.B. — This pudding may be made with other fleshy fruit, as also
with certain vegetables such as the pumpkin, etc.

2486— PLUM PUDDINQ

Put into a basin one lb. of chopped suet ; one lb. of bread-
crumb ; half lb. of flour ; half lb. of peeled and chopped apples ;
half lb. each of Malaga raisins, currants and sultanas ; two oz. each
of candied orange, lemon and cedrat rinds, cut into small dice ; two
oz. of ginger ; four oz. of chopped almonds ; eight oz. of powdered
sugar ; the juice and the chopped rind of half an orange and half
a lemon ; one-third oz. of mixed spices, containing a large quantity
of cinnamon ; three eggs ; quarter of a pint of rum or brandy, and
one-third of a pint of stout. The fruit should, if possible, have
previously macerated in liqueur for a long time.

Thoroughly mix the whole.

Pour the preparation into white earthenware pudding-basins,
with projecting rims ; press it into them, and then wrap them in a
buttered and flour-dusted cloth which tie into a knot on top.

Cook in boiling water or in steam for four hours.

When about to serve, sprinkle the puddings with heated
brandy or rum, and set them alight, or accompany them, either
with a sabayon with rum, with Brandy Butter (as directed under
" Gil-Bias pancakes " but without sugar), or with an English
custard thickened with arrowroot.

2487— AMERICAN PUDDINQ

Put into a basin two and a half oz. of bread-crumb ; three oz.
of powdered sugar ; three oz. of flour ; two and a half oz. of marrow
and an equal quantity of suet (both chopped) ; three oz. of candied
fruit cut into dice ; one egg and three egg-yolks, a pinch of chopped
orange or lemon zest ; a little nutmeg and cinnamon, and a
liqueur-glassful of brandy or rum.

Mix up the whole ; pour the preparation into a buttered and
dredged mould or basin, and cook in the bain-marie.

Serve a sabayon with rum at the same time.

2488— MARROW PUDDINQ

Melt half a lb. of beef-marrow and two oz. of suet, in a bain-
marie, and let it get tepid. Then work this grease in a basin with
half a lb. of powdered sugar ; three oz. of bread-crumbs, dipped in
milk and pressed ; three whole eggs and eight egg-yolks ; half a lb.
of candied fruit, cut into dice ; three oz. of sultanas and two oz. of
pipped, Malaga raisins.

ENTREMETS 733

Pour this preparation into an even, deep, buttered and dredged
border-mould ; and poach in the bain-marie.
Serve a sabayon with rum at the same time.

Bread Puddings.

2489— ENGLISH BREAD PUDDINQ

Butter some thin slices of crumb of bread and distribute over
them some currants and sultanas, swelled in tepid water and well
drained. Set these slices in a pie-dish ; cover with preparation
No. 2638, and poach in front of the oven.

2400— FRENCH BREAD PUDDINQ

Soak two-thirds of a lb. of white bread-crumb in one and three-
quarter pints of boiled milk, flavoured with vanilla and containing
eight oz. of sugar. Rub through a sieve and add : four whole eggs,
six egg-yolks, and four egg-whites, beaten to a stiff froth.

Pour this preparation into a deep, buttered border-mould,
dusted with bread-crumbs ; and poach in bain-marie.

As an accompaniment, serve either an English custard, a vanilla-
flavoured sabayon, or a fruit sauce.

2491— GERMAN BREAD PUDDINQ

Soak two-thirds of a lb. of brown bread-crumb in one and
three quarter pints of Rhine wine. Moselle or beer, containing half
a lb. of moist sugar and a little cinnamon. Rub through a sieve,
and add four eggs, six egg-yolks, five oz. of melted butter, and
the whites of four eggs beaten to a froth. Poach in a bain-marie as
in the preceding case. The adjunct to this pudding is invariably a
fruit syrup.

2492— SCOTCH BREAD PUDDINQ

Proceed exactly as for No. 2490, but add five oz. of sliced
seasonable fruit. Mould and poach in the same way, and
serve a red-currant sauce flavoured with raspberries, as an accom-
paniment.

Paste Puddings,

2493— TAPIOCA

Sprinkle eight oz. of tapioca into one and three-quarter pints
of boiling milk, containing four oz. of sugar, a pinch of salt and
three oz. of butter.

Cook in the oven for twenty minutes ; transfer the preparation
to another saucepan, and add to it six egg-yolks, two and a half oz.
of butter, and the whites of four eggs beaten to a stiff froth.

Pour the whole into a well-buttered cylinder-mould, sprinkled
with tapioca, and poach in the bain-marie until the preparation

734 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

seems resilient to the touch. Let the pudding stand for seven or
eight minutes before turning it out. Serve an English custard,
a sabayon or a fruit sauce as accompaniment.

2494— SAGO PUDDING

Proceed as above, but substitute sago for the tapioca, and
sprinkle the inside of the mould with sago. The treatment and
adjuncts are the same.

2495— SEMOLINA PUDDING

Proceed as for No. 2493, but use semolina instead of tapioca,
and sprinkle the mould with granulated semolina.

2496— VERMICELLI PUDDING

Proceed as for No. 2493, but use vermicelli, and sprinkle
the mould with bits of vermicelli, which should not be broken up
overmuch.

2497— FRESH -NOODLE PUDDING

Proceed in exactly the same way as for No. 2493.

2498— ENGLISH TAPIOCA, SAGO, AND SEMOLINA
PUDDINGS, ETC.

Whatever be the paste used, it should be cooked in very slightly-
sugared milk, flavoured according to fancy, and in the quantities
given above. Thicken by means of two eggs per pint of the
preparation ; pour the whole into a buttered pie-dish, and cook in
the oven in a bain-marie.

N.B. — All English puddings of this class are made in the same
way, and, as already stated, are served in the dish in which they have
cooked.

2499— BRAZILIAN PUDDING

Make the preparation for tapioca pudding and pour it into a
mould, clot/ted with sugar cooked to the caramel stage.
Poach in a bain-marie and serve plain.

2500— CHE VREUSE PUDDING

This is semolina pudding served with a Sabayon, flavoured with
kirsch.

2501— RICE PUDDING

Prepare the rice as directed under No. 2404, and mi.N; with it
(per lb. of raw rice) the whites of fifteen eggs beaten to a stiff froth.
Mould in buttered moulds sprinkled with raspings.

The cooking and the adjuncts are the same as for Nos. 2493,
2494, etc.

ENTREMETS 735

2502— ENGLISH RICE PUDDING

The quantities for this pudding are : six oz. of rice, one quart
of milk (flavoured according to fancy), two oz. of sugar and three
oz. of butter. The grains of rice should be kept somewhat firm,
but the whole should be rather liquid. Thicken with three eggs ;
cook the preparation in the oven, in a pie-dish ; and on taking the
pudding out of the oven sprinkle its surface with icing sugar.

2503— RICE AND CHOCOLATE PUDDING

Add two oz. of chocolate to every lb. of the preparation of rice,
made after No. 2404, and combine therewith the whites of three eggs
beaten to a fairly stiff froth ; pour the preparation into a buttered
pie-dish, and cook in the oven.

Serve some chocolate custard (combined with its bulk of whisked
cream) separately.

N.B. — This sweet may be served hot or cold.

SouFFL^D Puddings.

2504— SAXON PUDDING

Work four oz. of butter to a pomade in a basin. Add four oz.
of powdered sugar and four oz. of sifted flour, and dilute with
two-thirds pint of boiled milk.

Boil this preparation, stirring it the while ; and dry it over a
fierce fire as in the case of a panada for a " P^te a choux."

Take off" the fire ; thicken with five egg-yolks ; and then care-
fully mix with it the five whites beaten to a stiff" froth. Pour into
well-buttered moulds, and poach in a bain-marie.

As an accompaniment serve an English custard or a Sabayon,
flavoured according to fancy.

2505— ALMOND SOUFFLjfeD PUDDING

Make a preparation as for No. 2504, but use almond milk
instead of cow's milk. Pour the preparation into buttered moulds,
sprinkled with splintered and grilled almonds, and poach in a bain-
marie.

As an accompaniment serve a white-wine Sabayon flavoured

with orgeat.

2506— SOUFFLED PUDDING, DENISE

Finely pound four oz. of freshly-washed and peeled almonds,

and add thereto, from time to time, a few drops of fresh water.

When the almonds form a smooth paste, add the necessary quantity

of water to them to produce one pint of milk. Strain through

muslin and slightly twist the latter in order to express all the

contained liquid.

736 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

With this almond milk, dilute three oz. of flour and three oz.
of rice cream, mixed in a saucepan, and take care that no lumps
form. Strain the whole through a strainer, and add five oz. of sugar,
three oz. of butter and a little salt.

Set the saucepan on the fire ; boil, stirring the while, and then
stir briskly with a spatula until the preparation acquires the con-
sistence of a thick paste and falls from the spatula without leaving
any adhering portions. Pour this paste into a basin and combine
therewith : first, little by little, two oz. of fresh butter ; then, eight
egg-yolks, two ounces of finely-pounded almonds moistened with
a tablespoonful of kirsch and as much maraschino, and the whites
of five eggs beaten to a stiff froth.

This pudding is cooked in a bain-marie in one of the following
ways :

(i) In a buttered pie dish. In this case, on taking the pudding
out of the bain-marie, sprinkle its surface with icing sugar, and
criss-cross it with a red-hot iron.

(2) In a shallow, buttered and dredged, Charlotte-mould.

(3) In fairly shallow, buttered dome-moulds, lined inside with
roundels one inch in diameter, stamped (by means of a fancy-cutter)
out of a layer of Genoise or a layer of " lady's-finger-biscuit "
preparation, about one-third of an inch thick.

In the two last cases, the pudding is coated with an apricot
sauce, mixed with almond milk, and a sauceboat of the same sauce
is served separately.

2507— LEMON SOUFFLED PUDDINQ

Make the preparation for No. 2504, and flavour it with a piece
of lemon rind. The treatment is the same.

Serve an English custard, flavoured with lemon separately.

2508— ORANGE, CURA^OA, ANISETTE, AND
BENEDICTINE PUDDINGS, ETC.

For all these puddings the procedure is the same as for No.
2504, and only the flavour changes.

Accompany each with an English custard, flavoured like the
particular pudding.

2501^— INDIAN SOUFFLED PUDDING

Take some souffled-pudding preparation and add to it two
oz. of powdered ginger, and five oz. of candied ginger, cut into
dice. Proceed in the same way as for No. 2504.

As an accompaniment, serve an English custard flavoured with
ginger.

ENTREMETS

737

3510— CHESTNUT SCUFFLED PUDDINQ

Cook two lbs. of peeled chestnuts in a light, vanilla-flavoured
syrup.

Rub them through a sieve, add five oz. of powdered sugar and
three oz. of butter to the purde, and dry it over a fierce fire.
Thicken it with eight egg-yolks and finish it with the whites of six
eggs, beaten to a stiff froth.

Poach in buttered moulds in a bain-marie.

As an accompaniment, serve, either an English custard, or a
vanilla-flavoured apricot syrup.

2511— MOUSSELINE PUDDINQ

Work four oz. of butter and four oz. of powdered sugar to a
pomade, and add the yolks of ten eggs, one by one ; meanwhile
stirring the preparation.

Set the latter on a moderate fire until it veneers the withdrawn
spoon ; then immediately add the whites of seven eggs beaten
to a stiff froth.

Pour the whole into a deep, buttered border-mould, which only
half fill, in view of the subsequent expansion of the preparation
while cooking.

Poach in a bain-marie for about thirty minutes, and let the
pudding stand for ten minutes before turning it out.

As an accompaniment serve a light Sabayon or a fruit sauce.

3512— SCUFFLED PUDDINQ A LA REQENCE

Make a sou^/d-pudding preparation flavoured with vanilla,
and poach it in a bain-marie, in a mould clothed with sugar cooked
to the caramel stage. Serve an English custard, prepared with
caramel, separately.

2513— SCUFFLED PUDDINQ A LA REINE

Take some vanilla-flavoured, soufflid-pndding preparation.
Take a mould with a central tube ; butter it, and besprinkle it
with chopped pistachios and crushed macaroons. Set the pre-
paration in the mould in layers, alternated by coats of chopped
pistachios and crushed macaroons ; and poach in a bain-marie.

As an accompaniment serve an English custard combined
with pralin.

2514— SCUFFLED PUDDINQ A LA ROYALE

Line the bottom and sides of a buttered Charlotte-mould with
thin slices of biscuit spread with jam and rolled up. Garnish the
mould with a souffled-p\xddSx^% preparation, and poach in a bain-
marie.

Serve an apricot sauce, flavoured with Marsala, separately.

3 B

738 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

251S— SOUFFLI&D PUDDING SANS-SOUCI

Copiously butter a mould, and sprinkle its bottom and sides
with well-washed currants. Garnish with a sou^e'd-pudding pre-
paration, combined per two lbs. with one lb. of peeled apples, cut
into dice and cooked in butter.

Poach in a bain-marie.

2516— SCUFFLED PUDDING A LA VESUVIENNE

Make a soufflM-pMd^vc^g preparation, and add to it for the
quantities given in the original recipe one and a half oz. of tomato
jam and the same quantity of pipped Malaga raisins. Poach in a
bain-marie in a mould with a central tube.

When the pudding is turned out, surround it with apricot
sauce, and pour in the middle some heated rum, which light when
serving.

2517— ROLY=POLY PUDDING

Proceed as for No. 2356 : prepare a firm paste from one lb.
of flour, nine oz. of chopped suet, one and a half oz. of sugar, a
pinch of salt, and one-sixth pint of water. Let this paste rest for
one hour before using it.

Roll it out to the shape of a rectangle one-fifth of an inch
thick ; spread a layer of jam upon it, and roll it up like a
Swiss roll.

Wrap it in a buttered and dredged cloth, and cook it in
boiling water or in steam for one and a half hours.

When about to serve, cut the roll into roundels half an inch thick,
and dish them in a crown. As an accompaniment serve a fruit
sauce.

2518— RISSOLES

The preparation of rissoles for sweets is the same as that for
rissoles served as hors-d'ceuvres, except that the former are
garnished with marmalade or jam, with a fruit salpicon or with stewed
fruit, with plain or pralined creams, etc.

The best paste for the purpose is derived from puff-paste
trimmings.

The shape of rissoles varies very much. They may be shaped
like half-moons, purses, small, round or oval patties, etc.

Rissoles for entremets are also frequently made from ordinary
brioche paste, and constitute a variety of Viennese fritters. In
this case they are invariably mentioned on the menu as " a la
Dauphine."

ENTREMETS 739

2519— SOUFFLES

Although soufflSs are generally served unaccompanied, some
stewed, seasonable fruit, or a macidoine of fresh fruit, may, never-
theless, be served with them. This, of course, only applies to
souffles with a fruit base.

I have already given the formulae ior souffles (No. 2405) ; I need
now, therefore, only give the peculiarities of each particular
souffle.

2520— FRUIT S0UFFL6 IN A CROUSTADE

Line a round, shallow, well-buttered, croustade-mou\d with a
very thin layer of sugared paste. Spread some vanilla-flavoured,
stewed apples on the bottom, and upon it lay a garnish of various
seasonable fresh stewed fruits — quartered if large. The mould
ought now to be half-filled.

Fill it up with a vanilla-flavoured souffle preparation, and cook it
in a moderate oven for about twenty-five minutes.

On withdrawing it from the oven, carefully turn it out on a dish ;
pour a few tablespoonfuls of heated rum into the latter, and set a
light to it when serving.

2521— ALMOND SOUFFLE

Make a preparation of souffle with cream, but use almond milk
instead of cow's milk, add one and a half oz. of slightly-grilled,
chopped almonds, per half pint of almond milk. Dish and cook in
the usual way.

2522— SOUFFLE WITH FRESH ALMONDS

Proceed exactly as above, but use fresh splintered almonds
instead of grilled, chopped ones.

2523— SOUFFLE WITH FILBERT

Make the souffle preparation from milk in which two oz. of filbert
pralin per one-sixth pint have previously been infused.
Dish and cook the souffli in the usual way.

2524— SOUFFLE A LA CAMARQO

Make a souffle preparation of tangerines, and another of filberts
as above. Dish the two preparations in layers, alternated by
" lady's-finger biscuits," saturated with Curasao liqueur.

2525— PAULETTE SOUFFLE

Take vanilla-flavoured, souffld preparation, thickened somewhat

more than the ordinary kind, and add to it five tablespoonfuls

of strawberry pur^e. Serve some well-cooled strawberries, coated

with raspberry pur^e, separately.

2526— CHERRY SOUFFLE

Prepare a soufflivi'x'ia. Kirsch, accompany it with some slewed)
stoned cherries, covered with a raspberry pur^e.

3 B 2

740 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

2527— STRAWBERRY S0UFFL1&

This is a souffle with Kirsch, accompanied by iced strawberries
macerated in orange juice.

2528— POMEGRANATE S0UFFL6 "A L'ORIENTALE"

Make a souffle preparation, slightly flavoured with vanilla. Dish
it in layers in a timbale, alternated by " lady's-finger biscuits "
saturated with Grenadine and Kirsch. On withdrawing the souffle
from the oven, cover it with a veil of spun sugar, and sprinkle
the latter with small sweets, flavoured with Grenadine, in imitation
of pomegranate seeds.

2529— JAVA SOUFFLE

Make the souffle preparation, but use tea instead of milk, and
add thereto one and a half oz. of chopped pistachios per one-sixth
pint of the tea.

2530— LERINA SOUFFLE

Take some ordinary souffle preparation, flavoured with L^rina
liqueur, which is a kind of Chartreuse, made in the L^rins islands.

2531— SOUFFLE WITH LIQUEUR

This souffle may be made, either from the souffld with cream
preparation or from that with fruit, given in the note.

The soufflh made from cream are flavoured with such liqueurs
as rum, cura5ao, anisette, vanilla, etc.

Those made from fruit are flavoured with Kirsch, Kiimmel, etc.

2532— LUCULLUS SOUFFLl^

Set a savarin, saturated with Kirsch-flavoured syrup, upon a
dish, and surround it with a band of paper, tied on with string, in
order to prevent the souffle from drying during the cooking
process.

Make a souffle preparation with a fruit base, set it in the centre
of the savarin, and cook it in the usual way.

2533— HILDA SOUFFLE

This is a lemon souffle, accompanied by fine strawberries, well
cooled and coated with a purde of fresh raspberries.

2534— SOUFFLE "A LA D'ORLEANS"

Take some cream Joa^Z-preparation, combined with pieces of
Jeanne-d'Arc biscuits (a kind of Rheims biscuit), saturated with
peach liqueur and Kirsch, and one oz. each of half-sugared cherries
and angelica, cut into dice.

ENTREMETS 741

2535— SOUFFLE PALMYRE

Take some vanilla-flavoured souffle preparation. Set it in a
timbale, in layers alternated by lady's-finger biscuits saturated with
anisette and Kirsch. Cook in the usual way.

2536— SOUFFLE PRALINE

Take some vanilla-flavoured soufflt preparation ; add to it two
ounces of almond pralin which should have previously infused in
milk. When the souffli is dished, sprinkle its surface with grilled,
chopped almonds, or crushed, burnt almonds.

2537— ROTHSCHILD SOUFFLE

Take some cream j<?M^/-preparation, combined with three
ounces of candied fruit, cut into dice and macerated in Dantzig
brandy, containing plenty of gold spangles.

When the souffle is almost cooked, set on it a border of fine
strawberries (in season), or half-sugared, preserved cherries.

It should be remembered, however, that the correct procedure
demands the use of strawberries in full season.

2538— SOUFFLE A LA ROYALE

Take some vanilla-flavoured soti^Z-preparation. Dish it in a
timbale in alternate layers with lady's-finger biscuits, saturated
with Kirsch ; and distribute thereon such fruits as pine-apple,
cherries, angelica and grapes — all cut into dice, and previously
macerated in Kirsch.

2539— VANILLA SOUFFLE

Take some cream jo«^/-preparation, made from milk in which
a stick of vanilla has been previously infused.

2540— VIOLET S0UFFL6

Take some vanilla-flavoured souffle preparation, combined with
crushed crystallised violets. When the souffle is dished, set on it
a crown of large crystallised violets, and cook in the usual way.

2541— SUBRICS

Into one pint of vanilla-flavoured boiled milk, containing three
and a half oz. of sugar, drop four oz. of semolina. Add one and a
half oz. of butter and a grain of salt ; mix thoroughly, and gently
cook in the oven under cover for twenty-five minutes.

Thicken with six egg-yolks, and spread the preparation in layers
two-thirds of an inch thick over a buttered tray. Pass a piece of
butter over the surface to prevent its drying, and leave to cool.

Then cut up this preparation into rings three inches in diameter.

Heat some clarified butter in a frying-pan ; set the rings
in it ; brown them on both sides, and dish them in a circle.

742 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

Garnish the centre of each ring with a tablespoonful of red-currant
jelly, or very firm quince jelly.

TiMBALES.

2542— TIMBALE A LA D'AREMBERQ

Line a buttered Charlotte mould with some fairly firm Brioche
paste. Garnish the mould with quartered pears, cooked in vanilla-
flavoured syrup, kept rather firm and alternated by apricot jam.

Close the timbale with a layer of the same paste, well sealed
down round the slightly-moistened edges, and cut a slit in the
middle for the escape of steam. Cook in a good moderate oven
for about forty minutes.

On taking the timbale out of the oven, turn it out on a dish,
and accompany it with a maraschino-flavoured apricot sauce.

2543— BOURDALOUE TIMBALE

Prepare a dry paste, combined with four ounces of finely-
chopped almonds per one lb. of flour.

With this paste line a buttered timbale mould, and garnish it
with various stewed fruits, alternated by layers of frangipan cream.
Cover with a layer of the same paste, and bake in a good moderate
oven.

When the timbale is turned out, coat it with a vanilla-flavoured
apricot syrup.

2544— MARIE-LOUISE TIMBALE

Take a stale G^noise cooked in a deep Charlotte mould ; press
the blade of a knife into it and cut it all round, leaving a base.

Remove the inside crumb in one piece which should resemble a
large cork in shape. Cut this crumb into slices half-inch thick;
coat each slice with Italian meringue, and, upon the latter, distri-
bute a salpicon of peaches, cherries and pine-apple.

Coat the outside of the timbale with the same meringue, and
decorate it ; put the slices back inside, and set them one upon the
other. Owing to the inserted garnish these slices naturally project
above the sides of the timbale ; surround them therefore with a
border of poached peaches, separated by a bit of meringue.

Put the timbale in a mild oven to colour the meringue, and
serve a Kirsch-flavoured peach sauce at the same time.

3545— MONTMORENCY TIMBALE

Cook a brioche in a mould of the required size. When it is
quite cold, remove all the crumb from its inside, leaving a thickness
of three-quarters of an inch on the bottom and sides. Coat all
round, by means of a brush, with apricot jam cooked to the small-

ENTREMETS 743

thread stage, and decorate with pieces of puff-paste in the shape
of crescents, lozenges, roundels, etc., colourlessly baked in a
moderate oven. When about to serve, pour in a garnish of stoned
cherries, cooked in a thin syrup, thickened with raspberry-flavoured
red-currant jelly.

2546— TIMBALE A LA PARISIENNE

Cook a brioche in a Charlotte-mould, and, when it is quite
cold, remove the crumb from its inside as above. Coat the outside
with apricot jam, and decorate with candied fruit. When about to
serve, pour into it a garnish consisting of peeled and quartered
pears, apples, peaches and apricots, cooked in vanilla-flavoured
syrup ; pine-apple cut into large dice, lozenges of angelica ; half-
almonds; and raisins, swelled in tepid water. Cohere this
garnish with a Kirsch-flavoured apricot pur^e.

3547— TIMBALE A LA FAVART

Cook a brioche in a Richelieu-mould, and hollow it out and
decorate it as above. The garnish of this timbale consists of only
whole or halved fruit, and vanilla-flavoured chestnuts ; and these
are cohered with Kirsch-flavoured apricot syrup, combined with
one quart of a pur^e of chestnut remains.

Pour the garnish into the timbale just before serving.

Hot Fruit Entremets.

2548— APRICOTS (Abricots)

Whether fresh or preserved, apricots used for sweets should
always be peeled. When preserved apricots are used, it is well to
cook them again before using them, for sometimes they are inclined
to be too firm.

2549— APRICOTS A LA BOURDALOUE

Prepare a flawn-crust, and bake it without colouration. Garnish
its bottom with a layer of thin frangipan cream, combined with
crushed macaroons. Upon this cream set some half-apricots,
poached in vanilla-flavoured syrup, and cover them with a layer of
the same cream.

Sprinkle the surface with crushed macaroons and melted butter,
and glaze quickly.

N.B. — The above is the usual procedure, but fruit " a la
Bourdaloue" may also be prepared in the following ways : (i) Set
the fruit in a shallow timbale, between two layers of cream, the upper
one of which should be covered with gratin ; (2) set the fruit in a
border of rice or semolina, with the same coat of gratin upon the

744 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

cream ; (3) set the fruit in a border of GSnoise, combined with
apricots.

2550— APRICOTS A LA COLBERT

Poach some fine half-apricots in syrup, keeping them somewhat
firm.

Drain them ; dry them, and garnish their hollows with " rice for
entremets " (No. 2404) in suchwise as to reconstruct the fruit.
Treat them a tanglaise, with very fine bread-crumbs ; fry just
before dishing, and drain. Stick a small stalk of angelica into
each apricot, in imitation of the stems, and dish them on a
napkin.

Serve a Kirsch-flavoured apricot sauce separately.

2551— APRICOTS A LA CONDE

On a round dish prepare a border of vanilla-flavoured, sweet
rice, either by means of a knife, or by means of an even, buttered,
border-mould.

Upon this border set some apricots poached in syrup ; decorate
with candied fruit, and coat with a Kirsch-flavoured apricot syrup.

2552— APRICOTS A LA CONDE (2nd Method)

Set a crown of small G^noise roundels on a dish ; on each roundel
set a fine poached half-apricot (convex side undermost), and set
a half-sugared cherry in the hollow of each half-apricot. In the
middle of the crown arrange a pyramid of rice croquettes, the size
and shape of apricots.

Serve a Kirsch-flavoured apricot sauce separately.

2553— APRICOTS A LA CUSSY

Garnish the flat side of some macaroons with a layer of smooth
fruit salpicon, cohered with an apricot pur^e ; set a fine poached
half-apricot on each macaroon, coat with Italian meringue ; dish in
the form of a crown, and place the dish in a moderate oven for a
few minutes to dry, but not to colour, the meringue.

Serve a Kirsch-flavoured apricot sauce separately.

2554— ABRICOTS Q RATINES

Spread an even layer, one inch thick, of stiff" stewed apples or
stewed semolina (prepared like rice for entremets) on a dish. Set
thereon some fine half-apricots poached in syrup ; entirely coyer
the latter with a somewhat thin preparation of " Pralin k Cond6,"
sprinkle with icing sugar, and set the dish in the oven to slightly
colour the pralin.

ENTREMETS 745

2555— ABRICOTS MERINGUES

Spread a layer of vanilla-flavoured sweet rice on a dish, and
set some poached half-apricots thereon. Cover with ordinary
meringue ; shaping the latter like a dome or a Charlotte ; decorate
with the same meringue ; sprinkle with icing sugar, and place
the dish in the oven in order to slightly cook the meringue.

On withdrawing the dish from the oven, garnish the decorative
portions alternately with apricot and red-currant jam.

255^— ABRICOTS MERINGUES (Another Method)

Prepare a colourlessly-baked deep flawn-crust. Garnish the
bottom either with a layer of frangipan cream or with vanilla-
flavoured semolina, or sweet rice. Set on this some poached
half-apricots ; cover with meringue, smooth the latter on top and
all round with the blade of a knife, and decorate with meringue by
means of a piping-bag fitted with a small even pipe. For the rest
of the procedure follow the preceding recipe.

2557— APRICOTS A LA SULTANE

Prepare a Ginoise, cooked in a somewhat deep border-mould,
and stick it by means of some apricot, cooked to the small-thread
stage, to a base of dry paste of the same size. Coat it all round
with ordinary meringue ; decorate it with a piping-bag fitted with
a small even pipe, and brown it in a moderate oven.

Then garnish the inside of the border with a preparation of
vanilla-flavoured rice, combined with a little frangipan cream and
some splintered pistachios ; taking care to keep the preparation
sufficiently stiff" to be able to shape it like a dome. Upon the rice
set some fine half-apricots, poached in vanilla-flavoured syrup, and
sprinkle these with chopped pistachios.

As an accompaniment serve a syrup prepared with almond milk,
and finished with a piece of butter as big as a hazel-nut.

Pine-apple (Ananas).

2558— PINE-APPLE A LA FAVORITE
See No. 2429.

2559— PINE = APPLE A LA CONDE

Macerate in sugar and Kirsch some half-slices of pine-apple.
Dish them in a circle upon a border of rice, prepared as directed
under No. 2551 ; decorate with half-sugared cherries and lozenges
of angelica, and coat with a Kirsch-flavoured apricot syrup.

2560— PINE -APPLE A LA CREOLE

Cook a pine-apple in a Kirsch-flavoured syrup ; cut it vertically
in two, and cut each half into vertical, thin and regular slices.

746 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

Line a dome-mould with these slices, and fill it up with
vanilla-flavoured rice ; leaving a hollow in the middle. Garnish
this hollow with the pine-apple parings, cut into dice, and custard
apples and bananas, likewise cut into dice and cooked in syrup.

Turn out upon a round dish ; decorate the top with large
leaves of angelica, and surround the base with bananas poached in
Kirsch-flavoured syrup.

Serve a Kirsch-flavoured apricot syrup separately.

Bananas (Bananes).

2561— BANANAS A LA BOURDALOUE

Peel the bananas and poach them gently in a vanilla-flavoured
syrup. For the rest of the operation, proceed as directed under
No. 2549.

2563— BANANAS A LA CONDE

Poach the bananas in vanilla-flavoured syrup, and then treat
them as directed under No. 2551,

2563— BANANAS MERINQUEES

Poach the bananas in vanilla-flavoured syrup, and then treat
them as directed under the apricot recipes (Nos. 2551 and 2552) ;
leaving them either whole or cutting them into roundels.

2564— BANANAS A LA NORW^QIENNE

Cut a slice of the peel from each banana, and remove the pulp
from their insides. Fill the emptied peels, three parts full, with
banana ice, and quickly cover the latter by means of a piping-bag
fitted with a small grooved pipe, with an Italian meringue flavoured
with rum.

Lay the prepared bananas on a dish ; set the latter on a tray
containing broken ice, and place the tray in a sufficiently hot oven
to ensure the speedy browning of the meringue.

2565— SOUFFLED BANANAS

Cut off a quarter of each banana, and withdraw the pulp from
their insides without bursting the peel. Rub this pulp through a
sieve ; add it to a cream sou^^-prepara-tion ; finish the latter with
the necessary quantity of egg-whites, and fill the emptied peels
with it.

Set the filled peels in a star on a dish, and put the latter in the
oven for six minutes.

ENTREMETS 747

Cherries (Cerises).

2566— JUBILEE CHERRIES

Stone some fine cherries ; poach them in syrup, and set them in
small silver timbales. Reduce the syrup and thicken it with a
little arrowroot, diluted with cold water ; allowing one table-spoonful
of arrowroot per half-pint of syrup. Cover the cherries with the
thickened syrup ; pour a coffee-spoonful of heated Kirsch into each
timbale, and set a light to each when serving.

2567— CHERRIES A LA VALERIA

Prepare some tartlet crusts for sugared paste. Garnish the
bottom of each with red-currant ice, combined with cream, and
cover the latter with vanilla-flavoured, Italian meringue, laid on by
means of a piping-bag. Upon this meringue set the stoned
cherries, poached in sugared Bordeaux wine, and arrange the
tartlets on a dish.

Lay the dish on a tray containing broken ice, and set the tray
in the oven in order to dry the meringue. On withdrawing the
dish from the oven, quickly coat the cherries with red-currant
syrup ; sprinkle the latter with chopped pistachios, and dish the
tartlets on a napkin.

2568— MERINQUED CHERRY FLAWN

Line a buttered flawn-ring with fine paste : prick the bottom ;
garnish with stoned cherries after the manner of an ordinary flawn,
and fill up with custard (No. 2397B). Cook in the usual way.

On taking the flawn out of the oven, remove the ring, and finish
the former like an ordinary meringue-coated flawn.

N.B. — All fruits used in the preparation of ordinary flawns
may be similarly prepared for meringue-coated flawns. Only such
fruits as strawberries and grapes, which are not cooked with the
crust, are unsuited to this kind of preparation.

2569— NECTARINES

Nectarines may be prepared after all the recipes given for
peaches. I shall not, therefore, give any recipes which are proper to
them. See peaches.

Oranges and Tangerines (Oranges et Mandarines).

2570— ORANGES A LA NORW^QIENNE

Cut a slice of peel from the top of each of the oranges, and
empty them by means of a spoon. Three-parts fill the emptied
peels with orange or tangerine ice, in accordance with the fruit

748 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

under treatment, and cover the ice with Italian meringue, by means
of a piping-bag.

Set the dish containing the garnished peels on a tray covered
with broken ice, and quickly colour the meringue at the
salamander.

2571— TANGERINES A LA PALIKARE

Cut the tangerines at the top and remove the sections without
bursting the peel. Skin the sections raw. Fill the peels with rice
for entremets, containing a little saffron ; mould some of the same
rice in a little dome-mould, and set it upon a carved cushion.

Cover this dome with the tangerine sections ; coat the latter
with some apricot syrup ; and, all round, arrange the rice-garnished
peels, opened side undermost.

2572— ORANGE OR TANGERINE S0UFFL6 RIGHI

Without splitting them, empty the orange or tangerine peels.

Half-fill them with orange or tangerine ice, according to the
fruit under treatment, and cover the ice with orange- or tangerine-
flavoured j^2<^/-preparation. Place the dish containing the garnished
peels upon a tray covered with broken ice ; set in the oven that the
souffli may cook quickly, and allow two minutes for tangerines and
four minutes for oranges.

Peaches (Peches).
2573— P^CHES A LA BOURDALOUE

Poach the peaches (cut into two) in some vanilla-flavoured
syrup, and then proceed exactly as for No. 2549.

2574— PECHES A LA C0ND6

Nos. 2551 and 2552 maybe applied in every respect to peaches.

2575— PECHES A LA CUSSY

Proceed exactly as for No. 2553.

2576— PfeCHES FLAMB^ES

These may be prepared in two ways as follows : —
(i) Poach the peaches whole in a Kirsch-flavoured syrup, and
set them each in a small timbale. Thicken the syrup slightly with
arrowroot, and pour it over the peaches. Add some heated Kirsch,
and set it alight when serving.

(2) Poach the peaches as above, and set them on a fresh-straw-
berry pur^e. Sprinkle the whole with heated Kirsch, and set it
alight at the last moment.

ENTREMETS 749

2577— p6ches qratiniSes

Proceed exactly as for No. 2554.

2578— PfeCHES MERINQU^ES

Prepare a colourlessly-baked, flawn crust ; garnish the bottom
of it with frangipan cream prepared with pralin, and upon this
cream set whole or halved, poached peaches. Cover with meringue
and finish as explained under No. 2555.

2579— PECHES MAINTENON

Take some biscuit, baked in a dome-mould and completely
cooled. Cut it transversely into slices, and coat each of the latter
with frangipan cream, combined with a salpicon of candied fruit and
chopped, grilled almonds.

Join the slices together in suchwise as to reconstruct the biscuit,
and cover the latter with Italian meringue. Decorate by means of
the piping-bag, and dry in the oven.

Surround the biscuit with a border of fine half-peaches poached
in a vanilla-flavoured syrup,

2580— p6ches a la vanille

Poach the halved or whole peaches in a vanilla-flavoured syrup,
and set them in a timbale. Cover them to within half their
height with the syrup used in poaching, thickened with arrowroot,
slightly tinted with pink, and combined with vanilla cream.

Pears (Poires).

2581— POIRES A LA BOURDALOUE

If the pears be of medium size, halve them ; if they are large,
quarter them. Carefully trim the sections. Cook the pears in a
vanilla-flavoured syrup, and for the rest of the operation follow
No. 2549.

The remarks appended to No. 2549 apply equally to pears and
to all fruit prepared according to the particular recipe referred to.

2582— POIRES A LA CONDE

Very small pears turned with great care are admirably suited to
this entremet. If they are of medium size, halve them. Cook
them in vanilla-flavoured syrup, and dish them on a border of rice
as directed under No. 2537.

2583— POIRES A L'lMP^RATRICE

Quarter and properly trim the pears, and cook them in vanilla-
flavoured syrup. Dish them in a shallow timbale between two
layers of vanilla-flavoured rice for entremets, combined with a little
frangipan cream.

Sprinkle the upper layer with crushed macaroons and melted
butter, and set the gratin to form.

750 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

2584— POIRES A LA PARISIENNE

Bake a G^noise base in a flawn-ring, and, when it is almost cold,
saturate it with Kirsch-flavoured syrup.

In the middle of this base set a little dome of vanilla-flavoured
rice, and surround it with pears, cooked in syrup and set upright.
Border them with a thread of ordinary meringue, squeezed from a
piping-bag, fitted with a fair-sized, grooved pipe ; by the same
means make a fine rosette of meringue on top of the dome, and
bake this meringue in a mild oven.

On taking the dish out of the oven, glaze the pears with a brush
dipped in rather stiff apricot-syrup, and surround them with a
border of half-sugared cherries.

2585— POIRES A LA SULTANE

Halve or quarter the pears ; trim them well, and cook them in
a vanilla-flavoured syrup.

For the rest of the operation follow No. 2557.

2586— POIRES A LA R^QENCE

Turn the pears ; cook them whole in a vanilla-flavoured syrup,
and let them cool in the syrup. When they are cold cut them in
two lengthwise, slightly hollow out the inside of each half ; garnish
the hollow with rice for entremets, combined with a quarter of its
weight of frangipan cream and a fine salpicon of candied fruit,
macerated in Kirsch.

Join the two halves of each pear, and treat them a Vanglaise
with very fine bread-crumbs.

Fry them at the last moment, and, on taking them out of the
fat, stick an angelica stalk into each. Dish them on a napkin, and
serve a Kirsch-flavoured apricot sauce separately.

2587— TIMBALE DE POIRES A LA VALENCIENNES

Two-thirds garnish a buttered Charlotte-mould with Savarin
paste. Let the paste rise by fermentation ; bake it, and let it cool.

Remove the top which acts as a cover, and put it aside ; then
remove all the crumb from the inside, leaving only the outside
crust, and smear the latter with apricot syrup. Decorate with
alternate bands of sugar grains and chopped, very green pistachios.

Treat the cover with apricot syrup and decorate it in the
same way. Quarter some "Duchesse," "Beurre," "Doyennd" or
other creamy pears ; peel them ; cut them into somewhat thick
slices, and cook them in butter after the manner of Pommes a
Charlotte. When the pears are well cooked, mix with them a
quarter of their weight of apricot jam, and flavour with vanilla
liqueur.

ENTREMETS 751

Serve the timbale with this preparation ; put its cover on, and
set it on a warm dish.

Serve a Kirsch-flavoured apricot sauce separately.

Apples (Pommes).

2588— APPLE FRITTERS

Take some russet apples, which are the best for the purpose,
and make a hole through their centres with a tube three-quarters
of an inch in diameter, to remove the core and the pips. Peel
them and cut them into roundels one-third of an inch thick, and
macerate them for twenty minutes in powdered sugar and brandy
or rum.

A few minutes before serving, dry them slightly ; dip the
roundels into thin batter, and plunge them into plenty of hot fat.
Drain them, set them on a tray, sprinkle them with icing sugar,
glaze them quickly, and dish them on a napkin.

2589— APPLES WITH BUTTER

Core some gray Calville or russet apples by means of the tube-
cutter ; peel them and parboil them for two minutes in boiling
water, containing a little lemon juice. Then set them in a buttered
sautdpan ; add a few tablespoonfuls of vanilla-flavoured syrup,
and cook them under cover in the oven. Dish them on little,
round, brioche croMons, glazed in the oven, and fill the hollow with
butter worked with an equal weight of powdered sugar, and mixed
with a little brandy.

Cover the apples with their own syrup, slightly thickened with
apricot pur^e.

2590— POMMES A LA BONNE = FEMME

Core some russet apples with the tube-cutter, and slightly cut
them all round.

Dish them, fill the hollow of each with butter and powdered
sugar mixed ; pour a little water into the dish, and gently cook the
apples in the oven.

Serve these apples as they stand.

2591— POMMES A LA BOURDALOUE

Quarter, peel and trim the apples, and cook them in vanilla-
flavoured syrup, keeping them somewhat firm. Proceed for the
rest of the operation as directed under No. 2549.

2592— POMMES EN CHARLOTTE

See No. 2436.

752 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

2593— POMMES A LA CHATELAINE

Take some medium-sized apples, and prepare them like those
of No. 2590. Set them on a buttered dish ; fill the hollow in
each with a salpicon of half-sugared cherries, cohered with apricot
pur6e ; cover with thin, frangipan cream ; sprinkle with crushed
biscuits and macaroons and melted butter, and set the gratin to
form in a fierce oven.

2594— POiVlMES A LA CHEVREUSE

On a dish, set a cushion of a preparation for semolina
croquettes. All round arrange a close border of quartered apples
cooked in vanilla-flavoured syrup ; garnish the centre with a
salpicon of candied fruit and raisins, cohered with an apricot pur^e,
and cover with a thin coat of semolina.

Cover the whole with ordinary meringue, shaped like a dome ;
sprinkle some chopped pistachios upon the latter ; dredge with
icing sugar, and set to brown in a mild oven.

On taking the dish out of the oven deck the top of the dome
with a rosette of elongated angelica lozenges ; place a small apple,
cooked in pink syrup, in the middle of the rosette, and surround
the base of the entremet with a circle of alternated white and
pink, quartered apples.

2595— POMMES A LA C0ND6

Poach some fine, peeled and trimmed apples in vanilla-flavoured
syrup. Dish them on a border of rice, decorated with cherries and
angelica, as explained under No. 2551.

3596— POMMES QRATINEES

Set the quartered apples, poached in vanilla-flavoured syrup,
upon a base of minced apples prepared as for a Charlotte and
kept somewhat stiff. Cover with fairly thin pralin a Condd ;
sprinkle with icing sugar, and place the dish in a mild oven, that
the pralin may dry and colour slightly.

2597— POMMES MERINQUEES

Set the quartered apples, poached in vanilla-flavoured syrup,
upon a base of rice for croquettes, or of a mince as for a Charlotte.
Cover with ordinary meringue, and smooth the latter, giving
it the shape of a dome or a Charlotte ; decorate with the same
meringue ; sprinkle with icing sugar, and bake and brown in a
mild oven.

2598— POMMES A LA MOSCOVITE

Take some well-shaped apples, uniform in size ; trim to within

ENTREMETS 753

two-thirds of their height, and withdraw the pulp from their insides
in suchwise as to make them resemble a kind of cases.

Poach these cases in a thin syrup, keeping the pulp somewhat
firm ; drain them well, and set them on a dish.

Garnish them, one-third full, with a pur^e made from the with-
drawn pulp, and fill them up with a Kummel-flavoured, apple-
souffli preparation.

Cook in a mild oven for twenty minutes.

2599— POMMES A LA PARISIENNE

Proceed exactly as for No. 2584.

2600— POMMES A LA PORTUQAISE

Make cases of the apples as under No. 2598, and poach them
in the same way, keeping them somewhat firm.

Garnish them with stiff frangipan cream, combined with grated
orange rind, crushed macaroons, and currants and sultanas (both
washed and swelled in a Cura^oa-flavoured, lukewarm syrup).

Dish these garnished apples on a base of semolina-croquette
preparation, and set them in the oven for ten minutes. On taking
them out of the oven, coat their surface with melted red-currant
jelly, combined with a fine julienne of well-parboiled orange-.s^.y^.

2601— RABOTTE DE POMMES OU DOUILLON NORMAN

Prepare the apples like those " a la Bonne-femme," and enclose
each in a layer of fine, short paste. Cover each rabotte with an
indented roundel of the same paste; gild ; streak, and bake in a hot
oven for fifteen minutes.

2602— POMMES IR6NE

Select some nice apples ; peel them, and cook them in syrup,
keeping them somewhat firm. When they are cold, carefully with-
draw their pulp, that they may form a sort of cases.

Rub the pulp through a sieve, sugar it with vanilla sugar, and
spread a layer of it on the bottom of each apple. Fill up the
apple-cases with vanilla ice, combined with a puree of cooked
plums ; the proportions being one-third of the latter to one of the
former.

Cover this ice with Kirsch-flavoured Italian meringue ; set the
latter to colour quickly, and serve instantly.

2603— FLAN DE POMMES CHAUD NINON

Prepare a colourlessly-baked flawn crust. Garnish it with
apples stewed as for a Charlotte, and shape these in the form of
a dome. Upon these stewed apples set pink and white quartered
apples, alternating the latter regularly ; and, by means of a brush,

3 c

754 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

delicately coat these quarters of apple with some reduced white
syrup.

2604— FLAN DE POMMES A LA BATELIERE

Line a flawn-ring with some short paste, and garnish it with
apples, stewed as for a Charlotte.

Cover the apples with a dome of somewhat creamy rice for
entremets, combined with the whites of four eggs (beaten to a stiff
froth) per lb. of cooked rice.

Bake the flawn in the usual way, and, on taking it out of the
oven, sprinkle it copiously with icing sugar, and glaze with a
red-hot iron.

Various Hot Entremets.

3605— MINCE PIES

Constituents. — One lb. of chopped suet ; one and one-third lbs.
of cold, cooked fillet of beef, cut into very small dice ; one lb.
of pipped raisins ; one lb. of currants and an equal quantity of
sultanas ; one lb. of candied rinds ; half lb. of peeled and chopped
raw apples ; the chopped zest and the juice of an orange ; two-
thirds oz. of allspice ; one-sixth pint of brandy ; and the same
measure of Madeira and rum.

Thoroughly mix the whole ; pour it into an earthenware jar ;
cover the latter, and let the preparation macerate for a month.

Preparation. — Line some deep, buttered tartlet moulds with
ordinary short paste ; garnish them with the above preparation ;
cover with a thin layer of puff-paste, having a hole in its centre ;
seal down this layer, gild, and bake in a hot oven.

3606— CELESTINE OMELET

Make an omelet from two eggs, and garnish it either with
cream, stewed fruit or jam. Make a somewhat larger omelet, and
stuff it with a different garnish from the one already used ; enclose
the first omelet in the second, and roll the latter up in the usual
way. Sprinkle with icing sugar, and glaze in the oven or with
a red-hot iron.

3607— EGGS A LA RELIGIEUSE

Bake a somewhat deep flawn-crust without colouration, and
have it of a size in proportion to the number of eggs it has to
contain. Coat it inside with a layer of pralin, and dry the latter
well in a mild oven.

Meanwhile poach the required number of fresh eggs in boiling
milk, sugared to the extent of a quarter lb. per quart, and keep
them somewhat soft. Drain them, and set them in the crust.

ENTREMETS 755

Between each egg place a small slice of pine-apple, cut to the
shape of a cock's comb. Thicken the poaching-milk with five
eggs and six egg-yolks per quart ; pass it through a strainer: pour
the preparation over the eggs, and put the flawn in a mild oven,
that the cream may be poached and slightly coloured.

2608— PAIN PERDU OR GILDED CRUST

Cut some slices one-half inch thick from a brioche or a stale loaf,
and dip them in cold sugared and vanilla-flavoured milk. Drain the
slices ; dip them in some slightly-sugared beaten eggs, and place
them in a frying-pan containing some very hot clarified butter.
Brown them on both sides ; drain them ; sprinkle them with
vanilla sugar, and dish them on a napkin.

2609— FRUIT SUPREME A LA QABRIELLE

Prepare (i) a border of apples, stewed as for a Charlotte,
thickened with eggs, and poached in a buttered and ornamented
border mould.

(2) A macMoine of fruit, the quantity of which should be in
proportion to the capacity of the mould and consisting of
quartered pears, cooked in syrup ; pine-apple, cut into large
lozenges ; half-sugared cherries ; angelica, stamped into leaf-shapes
by means of the fancy-cutter ; and currants and sultanas, swelled
in syrup. Set all these fruits in a saut^pan.

To every pint of the pear-syrup add one lb. of sugar, and cook
the mixture to the small-ball stage. This done, reduce it by
adding one-sixth pint of very thick almond milk ; pour this over
the fruit, and simmer very gently for ten minutes. Turn out the
border of apples, poached in a bain-marie, upon a dish, and
surround it with a border of candied cherries. Complete the
macedoine away from the fire with a little very best butter ; pour
it into the border, and sprinkle on it some peeled and finely-
splintered almonds.

2610— SCHALETH A LA JUIVE

Line a greased iron saucepan, or a large mould for " Pommes
Anna," with a thin layer of ordinary noodle paste, and fill it up
with the following preparation : — For a utensil large enough to hold
one and a half quarts : — dne and three quarter lbs. of stiffly stewed
russet apples ; one and a quarter lbs. in all of pipped Malaga
raisins, currants, and sultanas (swelled in tepid water) in equal
quantities ; the finely chopped \ya\i-zests of an orange and a lemon ;
a mite of grated nutmeg ; four oz. powdered sugar ; four whole
eggs and the yolks of six ; and a quarter of a pint of Malaga wine.
Mix the whole well, in advance.

Cover with a layer of noodle paste ; seal the latter well down

3 C 2

756 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

round the edges ; gild, and make a slit in the top for the escape of
steam. Bake it in a moderate oven for fifty minutes, and let it
rest ten minutes before turning it out.

261 1— ENGLISH TARTS

These tarts are made in deep pie or pastry-dishes. Whatever
be the fruit used, clean it, peel it, or core it, according to its nature.
Some fruits are sliced while others are merely quartered or left
whole.

Set them in the dish, to within half inch of its brim ;
sprinkle them with moist or powdered sugar, and (in the case ot
fruit with firm pulps like apples) with a few tablespoonfuls of
water.

This addition of water is optional and, in any case, may be dis-
pensed with for aqueous fruits. First cover the edges of the dish,
which should be moistened slightly, with a strip of short paste, an
inch wide. Then cover the dish with a layer of puff-paste, which
seal down well to the strip of paste, already in position and
slightly moistened for the purpose. With a brush moisten the
layer of paste constituting the cover of the tart ; sprinkle it with
sugar, and set the tart to bake in a moderate oven.

All English tarts are made in this way, and all fruits may be
used with them even when, as in the case of gooseberries, they are
green.

Accompany these tarts by a sauceboat of raw-cream or by a
custard pudding (No. 2406).

Cold Sweets

2612— SAUCES AND ACCOMPANIMENTS OF COLD SWEETS

Cold sweets allow of the following sauces : —
(i) English Custard {2^06), flavoured according to fancy.

(2) Syrups of apricot, of mirabelle plums, of greengages, of red-
currant, &c., the particular flavour of which should always be intensi-
fied by the addition of a liqueur in keeping^with the fruit forming the
base of the syrup. Kirsch and Maraschino are admirably suited to
this purpose.

(3) Purees of fresh fruit, such as strawberries, raspberries, red-
currants, etc., combined with a little powdered sugar, and used plain
or mixed with a little whipped cream.

(4) Chantilly Cream, flavoured as fancy may suggest.
Finally, certain entremets allow of the following sauce : —

ENTREMETS 757

2613— CHERRY SALCE

Gently melt one lb. of raspberry-flavoured red-currant jelly.
Pour it into a cold basin, and add to it an equal quantity of
freshly-prepared cherry juice, the juice of two blood-oranges, a little
powdered ginger, and a few drops of carmine ; the latter with the
view of giving the preparation a sufficiently strong and distinctive
colour. Finally add a quarter of a lb. of half-sugared cherries,
softened in a tepid, Kirsch-flavoured syrup.

Bavarois.

These are of two kinds : —

(i) Bavarois with cream, and (2) Bavarois with fruit.

2614— CREAM BAVAROIS

Preparation : Work one lb. of castor sugar with fourteen egg-
yolks in a saucepan, dilute with a pint and a half of boiled milk, in
which a stick of vanilla has previously been infused, and two-thirds
of an 02. of gelatine dipped in cold water.

Put the preparation on a mild fire until it properly veneers the
withdrawn spoon, and do not let it boil. Pass it through the
strainer into an enamelled basin ; let it cool, stirring it from time
to time ; and, when it begins to thicken, add one and a half
pints of whipped cream, three oz. of powdered sugar, and two-thirds
oz. of vanilla sugar.

2615— BAVAROIS AUX FRUITS

Constituents. — One pint of fruit pur^e, diluted with one pint of
syrup at 30° (saccharom.). Add the juice of three lemons, one oz. of
dissolved gelatine, strained through linen, and one pint of whipped
cream. The preparation for fruit Bavarois may be combined with
fruit of the same nature as that used for the pur^e ; and this fruit
may be added raw in the case of strawberries, raspberries, red-
currants, etc., and poached in the case of pulpy fruits, such as pears,
peaches, apricots, etc.

2616— THE MOULDING AND DISHING OF BAVAROIS

Bavarois are generally moulded in fancy moulds fitted with
a central tube, slightly greased with sweet almond oil. When
they are greased they are incrusted in broken ice after the prepara-
tion has been covered with a round sheet of white paper.

When about to serve, the mould is quickly plunged into tepid
water, wiped, and turned out upon a dish, which may or may not be
covered with a folded napkin.

Instead of oiling the moulds they may be covered with a thin
coat of sugar, cooked to the caramel stage, which besides making

758 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

the Bavarois sightly, also gives it an excellent taste. Another very
advisable method is that of serving the Bavarois in a deep silver
timbale or dish, surrounded with ice. In this case, the entremet not
having to be turned out, the preparation does not need to be so
cohesive, and is therefore much more delicate.

When the Bavarois is served after this last method it is some-
times accompanied by stewed fruit or a MacMoine of fresh fruit ;
though, in reality, these fruit adjuncts are better suited to cold
puddings, which, in some points, are not unlike Bavarois.

Finally, when the Bavarois is moulded, it may be decorated,
just before being served, with Chantilly cream laid on by means of
a piping-bag fitted with a grooved pipe.

2617— BAVAROIS CLERMONT

Take some vanilla-flavoured Bavarois preparation combined
with three oz. of candied chestnut puree and three oz. of candied
chestnuts, broken into small pieces, per pint of the preparation.

Having turned out the Bavarois, surround it with a crown of fine
candied chestnuts.

2618— BAVAROIS DIPLOMATE

Clothe a timbale mould with a layer of vanilla-flavoured Bavarois
preparation. Fill it with chocolate and strawberry Bavarois pre-
parations, spread in alternate and regular layers.

2619— BAVAROIS MY QUEEN

Clothe a Bavarois mould with a preparation of slightly-sugared
raw cream, combined with dissolved gelatine. Then fill up the
mould with a Bavarois preparation, made from strawberry pur6e
and combined with large strawberries, macerated in Kirsch. When
the entremet is turned out surround it with a border of large straw-
berries, also macerated in sugar and Kirsch.

2620— BAVAROIS A LA RELIQIEUSE

Clothe a mould with some chocolate dissolved in a syrup con-
taining a somewhat large proportion of gelatine. Garnish the
inside of the mould with a vanilla-flavoured Bavarois preparation,
made from plain instead of whipped cream.

2621— BAVAROIS RUBANNE

This kind of Bavarois is made from differently-coloured and
differently-flavoured preparations, spread in alternate layers in the
mould.

It is therefore governed by no hard and fast rules, and every
kind of Bavarois preparation may be used.

ENTREMETS 759

2622— VARIOUS CREAM BAVAROIS

Almond, anisette, filbert, coffee, chocolate, Kirsch, fresh walnut,
orange, and violet Bavarois, &c., may be prepared after No. 2614 ;
the flavour alone undergoing any change.

2623— VARIOUS FRUIT BAVAROIS

After the generic recipe, Bavarois may be prepared from pine-
apple, apricots, strawberries, raspberries, melon, etc.

2624— BLANC-MANGE

Blanc-mange is scarcely ever served nowadays, and this is a
pity ; seeing that, when it is well prepared, it is one of the best
entremets that can be set before a diner. Blanc-mange, as it is
prepared in England, is quite different from that generally served ;
but it is nevertheless an excellent and very wholesome entremet,
and that is why I have given its recipe below.

As a matter of fact, in order to justify its name, blanc-
mange ought always to be beautifully white ; but, for a long
time since, the compound word has lost its original meaning.
The adjective and noun composing it have fused one with the
other to form a single generic title, which may now be applied with
equal propriety to both coloured and white preparations ; and the
verbal error is so old, dating as it does from pre-CarSme times, that
it would be futile to try and correct it.

2625— FRENCH BLANC = MANGE

Preparation. — Skin one lb. of sweet almonds and four or five
bitter almonds, and soak them well in fresh water that they may be
quite white.

Pound them as finely as possible ; adding to them the while (in
spoonfuls at a time) one pint of water. Strain the whole through a
strong towel, twisting the latter tightly ; melt one lb. of loaf-sugar
in the resulting milk (about one and half pints) ; add a bare oz.
of gelatine dissolved in tepid syrup ; strain the whole through
muslin, and flavour according to taste.

Moulding: — Mould the blanc-mange in oiled moulds fitted with
centre-tubes as for Bavarois. Incrust them in ice that their
contents may set, and proceed for the turning-out as already
directed.

N.B. — For the preparation of almond milk, modern Cookery has
substituted for the procedure given above, which is antiquated,
another which consists in pounding the almonds with only a few
table-spoonfuls of water and some very thin cream.

76o GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

2626— BLANC-MANGE WITH FRUIT AND LIQUEURS

All fruits, reduced to purees, may serve in the preparation of
blanc-manges, and the apportionment of the ingredients should
be as follows : — the pur^e of the selected fruit and the preparation
given above (including the same amount of gelatine) should be
mixed in equal quantities.

These blanc-manges take the name of the fruit with which they
are prepared, i.e. : strawberries, raspberries, apricots, peaches, etc.
They may also be prepared with liqueurs, which should be in the
proportion of one liqueur glassful to one quart of the preparation.
The best liqueurs for the purpose are Kirsch, Maraschino and
Run].

Blanc-manges are also made from chocolate and coffee, although
the flavour of the latter does not blend so well with that of almonds
as do the other products.

2627— BLANC-MANQES " RUBANNES "

Prepare these as directed under No. 2621, spreading the differ-
ently flavoured and coloured blanc-mange preparations in alternate
even and regular layers.

N.B. — Blanc-mange preparations may also be dished in silver
timbales, in good china cases, or in deep dishes. By this means,
to the great improvement of the preparation, the gelatine may be
reduced to a minimum quantity, just enough to ensure the setting
of the blanc-mange and no more. And the thing is quite possible,
inasmuch as there is no question of turning out the entremet.

In his book " The Parisian Cook," Careme recommends the
addition to the Blanc-mange of a quarter of its volume of very
fresh, good cream ; and the advice, coming as it does from such an
authoritative source, is worth following.

2628— ENGLISH BLANC=MANQE

Boil one quart of milk, containing four oz. of sugar, and pour it
over a quarter of a lb. of corn-flour diluted with half a pint of cold
milk ; stirring briskly the while.

Smooth the preparation with the whisk, and cook it over an
open fire for a few minutes, without ceasing to stir.

On taking it off" the fire, flavour it according to taste ; and pour
it, very hot, into moulds previously moistened with syrup, that the
mouldings may turn out glossy and smooth.

Let the contents of the moulds set ; turn them out, and serve
them very cold either plain or with an accompaniment of stewed
fruit.

ENTREMETS 761

Charlottes.

2629— CHARLOTTE A L'ARLEQUINE

Line the bottom of a Charlotte mould with a round piece of
paper, and garnish the sides with upright pieces of G^noise, glazed
white, pink and pale-green ; alternating the colours and pressing
the uprights snugly one against the other. Meanwhile, take some
strawberry, chocolate, pistachio and apricot Bavarois preparations,
and let them set in flawn-rings, lying on pieces of oiled paper.

Cut the Bavarois preparations into large dice, and mix them
with an ordinary, and somewhat liquid, cream Bavarois preparation.
Pour the whole into the mould, and leave to cool. When about to
serve, turn out the Charlotte ; remove the piece of paper and
replace it by a thin G^noise top, glazed with " fondant " and
decorated with candied fruit.

2630— CHARLOTTE CARMEN

Line the Charlotte with gaufrettes, and garnish it with the fol-
lowing preparation : — eight oz. of stewed tomatoes ; four oz. of
stewed red-capsicums, a pinch of powdered ginger, three oz. of
candied ginger cut into dice, the juice of three lemons, half a pint
of hot syrup at 32° (saccharom.), and five dissolved gelatine leaves.

Mix up the whole, and, when the preparation begins to thicken,
add to it one and three-quarter pints of whisked cream.

2631— CHARLOTTE A LA CHANTILLY

Prepare the Charlotte with gaufrettes, stuck directly upon a
round base of dry paste, either with apricot jam cooked to the
small-thread stage or with sugar cooked to the small-crack stage.
As a help, a Charlotte mould may be used for this operation ; it
may be laid on the dry-paste base and removed when the gaufrettes
are all stuck.

Garnish with whisked, sugared and vanilla-flavoured cream
built up in pyramid-form, and decorate its surface, by means of a
spoon, with the same cream, slightly tinted with pink.

2632— BAQUET ET PANIER A LA CHANTILLY

A "Baquet" (bucket) is made with lady's-finger biscuits, well
trimmed and stuck upon a base of dry paste with sugar cooked to
the large-crack stage.

In the middle, and on either side of the baquet, set a biscuit,
somewhat higher than the rest, with a hole in its top end, cut by
means of a small round cutter ; and surround the baquet with small
threads of chocolate-flavoured almond paste, in imitation of iron
hoops.

762 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

The " Panier " (basket) is made in the same way, but with bis-
cuits all of the same size, and without the imitation iron-hoops.
On the base and by means of sugar cooked to the large-crack stage,
fix a handle of pulled sugar, decked with sugar flowers.

The baquet and the panier are garnished with the same cream
as the Chantilly Charlotte, and are finished in the same way, with
a decoration of pink-tinted cream.

2633- CHARLOTTE MONTREUIL

Line the bottom and sides of the mould with lady's-finger
biscuits. Garnish with a Bavaroise preparation consisting of one
pint of peach pur6e per quart of English custard, and the usual
quantity of whisked cream.

Add some very ripe, sliced and sugared peaches, on putting the
preparation into the mould.

2634— op6ra charlotte

Line a mould with Huntley and Palmer's sugar wafers and
garnish it with a vanilla-flavoured Bavarois preparation, combined
with one-quarter of its bulk of a smooth pur^e of candied chestnuts,
and a salpicon of candied fruit, macerated in Maraschino.

2635— CHARLOTTE PLOMBlfeRE

Line the Charlotte with lady's-finger biscuits or with gaufrettes.
When about to serve, garnish it with a Plombiere ice (No. 2795)
and turn it out upon a napkin.

2636— CHARLOTTE RENAISSANCE

Line the bottom of the mould with a round piece of white paper,
and the sides with rectangles of G^noise, glazed white and pink.
Set the glazed sides of the rectangles against the mould.

Fill the mould, thus lined, with a vanilla-flavoured Bavarois
preparation, combined with raw peeled and sliced apricots and
peaches, pine-apple cut into dice, and wild strawberries, all these
fruits having been previously macerated in Kirsch. Let the
preparation set in the cool or on ice.

When the Charlotte is turned out, remove the round piece of
paper, and in its place lay a slice of pine-apple, cut from the thickest
part of the fruit and decorated with candied fruit.

2637— CHARLOTTE RUSSE

Make a rosette on the bottom of the mould with some heart-
shaped lady's-finger biscuits, and line the sides with the same
biscuits trimmed, set upright and close together.

This Charlotte maybe garnished with a vanilla-, /rfl/?«-, coffee-,
orange- or chocolate-flavoured cream Bavarois preparation ; or a

ENTREMETS 763

Bavarois preparation made from a purde of such fruits as apricots,
pine-apple, bananas, peaches, strawberries, etc.

The flavour or product which determines the character of the
Charlotte should always be referred to on the menu, thus :
Charlotte Russe d V Orange or Charlotte Russe aux Praises, etc.

Creams.

Cold creams, served as entremets, belong to two very distinct
classes :

(i) Cooked Creams, which are, in short, but a variety of custard.

(2) The Creams derived from natural, fresh cream, whipped and
sugared, the generic type of which is Chantilly cream.

Cooked Creams are prepared either in special little pots, in
small silver or porcelain bowls, or in moulds. Those prepared in
moulds are turned out when they are quite cold, and are called
" Cremes renvers^es " to distinguish them from the first two kinds,
which are always served in the utensil in which they have cooked.

For all that, the term " Creme renversee " has grown somewhat
obsolete, and the modern expression for this kind of custards is
" Cr^me moulde."

Crkme au Caramel represents a perfect type of this class.

The custards served in their cooking-receptacles are more
delicate than the others, because their preparation does not demand
such a large quantity of eggs ; but they are only served in the
home, like English custard. For a stylish luncheon or dinner,
moulded custards (Fr. crimes mouldes) are best.

2639— CRfiME A LA VANILLE, MOULEE

Boil one quart of milk containing one-half lb. of sugar ; add a
stick of vanilla, and let the latter infuse for twenty minutes. Pour this
milk, little by little, over three eggs and eight yolks, previously
whisked in a basin, and whisk briskly the while. Pass the whole
through a fine sieve ; let it rest for a moment or two ; then
completely remove all the froth lying on its surface, and pour the
preparation into buttered moulds or into vases specially made for
this purpose. Set to poach in a bain-marie, in a moderate oven,
keeping lids on the utensils.

Not for one moment must the water in the bain-marie boil
while the poaching is in progress ; for the air contained by the
preparation would then become over-heated, and the result
would be an infinity of small holes throughout the depth of the
custard, which would greatly mar its appearance.

As a matter of fact, the custard should poach, that is to say,

764 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

coagulate, as the result of the surrounding water being kept at a
constant temperature of 185° F. As soon as it is poached, let the
custard cool.

When it is poached in the utensils in which it is served, one egg
and eight yolks per quart of milk will be found sufficient. The
utensils should be carefully wiped and dished on a napkin.

If the custard is to be turned out, carefully overturn the mould
upon a dish, and pull it off a few minutes later. Moulded and
potted custards admit of all the flavourings proper to entremets ;
but those which suit them best are vanilla, almond milk, almond
and filbert pralin, coffee, chocolate, etc. Unless used in the form
of very concentrated essences, fruit flavours are less suited to them.

2640— crBme au caramel

Clothe the bottom and sides of a mould with sugar cooked to the
golden-caramel stage, and fill it up with a vanilla-flavoured, moulded-
custard preparation. Poach and turn it out as directed.

2641— CREME A LA VIENNOISE, MOULEE

This is a custard with caramel, but instead of clothing the mould
with the latter, it is dissolved in the hot milk. The custard should
be treated exactly like the vanilla-flavoured kind.

2642— CRBME a la FLORENTINE

Make a preparation of /ra/z'w-flavoured custard with caramel
and poach it.

When it is quite cold, turn it out on a dish ; decorate it with
Kirsch-flavoured Chantilly cream, and sprinkle its surface with
chopped pistachios.

2643— CRBME a L'OPERA

Poach, in an ornamented border-mould, a preparation ol pralin-
flavoured custard. When it is turned out, garnish its midst with a
dome of Chantilly cream, aromatised with pralined violets. Upon
the border set a crown of fine strawberries, macerated in a Kirsch-
flavoured syrup, and cover with a veil of sugar cooked to the
large- crack stage.

Cold Creams with a Whisk ed-Cream Base.
2644— crEme a la chantilly

Take some fresh and somewhat thick cream, and whisk it until
it is sufficiently stiff" to span the members of the whisk. Add
to it eight oz. of powdered sugar per quart of cream, and flavour
with vanilla or fruit essence.

ENTREMETS 765

Whatever be the purpose of this cream, it should, if possible,
be prepared only at the last moment.

2645— CRfeME AUX FRUITS A LA CHANTILLY

The constituents for this preparation are a purde of the selected
fruit and Chantilly cream, in the proportion of one-third of the
former to two-thirds of the latter.

The quantities of sugar and kind of flavour vary according to
the nature of the fruit.

It is served either as an entremet garnish, or alone in a bowl,
with a decoration of the same cream, laid by means of a piping-
bag fitted with a small even or grooved pipe. Send some lady's-
finger biscuits separately.

2646— CRfeME CAPRICE

Take some Chantilly cream, and add to it one-quarter of its
bulk of roughly broken-up meringues. Put the preparation in an
iced Madeleine-mould, lined with white paper ; seal up thoroughly;
string tightly, and keep the utensil in ice for two hours.

Turn out when about to serve ; remove the paper ; and
decorate, by means of a piping-bag fitted with a grooved pipe,
with Chantilly cream, tinted pink with strawberry and raspberry
juice.

2647— BRISE DU PRINTEMPS

Take some violet-flavoured, slightly-iced Chantilly cream, and
set in small dessert-dishes, by means of a spoon.

2648— NUEES ROSES

Take some Chantilly cream, aromatised with vanilla-flavoured
strawberry pur6e, and dish it in small dessert-dishes, by means
of a spoon.

2649— FLAMRI

Boil one pint of white wine and as much water, and sprinkle
in it eight oz. of small semolina. Cook gently for twenty-five
minutes. Then add to tlie preparation two-thirds lb. of powdered
sugar, a pinch of table-salt, two eggs, and the whites of six, beaten
to a stiff froth.

Pour it into moulds with buttered sides ; set these to poach in

the baiti-marie, and leave them to cool. Turn out, and coat with a

pur^e of raw fruit, such as strawberries, red-currants, cherries, etc.,

reasonably sugared.

2650— JELLIES

From the standpoint of their preparation, jellies are of two
kinds : (i) wine- or liqueur-flavoured jellies ; (2) fruit jellies. But
their base is the same in all cases, i.e., gelatine dissolved in a
certain quantity of water.

766 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

The gelatine should be extracted from calf's foot, by boiling
the latter ; but, although this is the best that can be obtained, the
means of obtaining it are the most complicated. The gelatine
bought ready-made may also be used in the quantities given
below.
2651— CALF'S= FOOT JELLY

Take some fine soaked and blanched calves' feet, and set them
to cook in one and three-quarters pints of water apiece. Skim as
thoroughly as possible ; cover, and then cook very gently for seven
hours. This done, strain the cooking-liquor and clear it of all
grease ; test its strength, after having cooled a little of it on ice ;
rectify it if necessary with sufficient filtered water, and once more
test it by means of ice.

Per quart of calPs-foot jelly, add eight oz. of sugar, a mite of
cinnamon, half the rind of an orange and lemon, and all their
juice.

For the clarification, proceed as directed hereafter.

2652— JELLY WITH A GELATINE BASE

Dissolve one oz. of strong gelatine in a quart of water. Add
one-half lb. of sugar, one-sixth oz. of coriander, and the zest and
juice of half a lemon and of a whole orange ; boil, and then let
the preparation stand for ten minutes away from the fire.

Whisk one and a half egg-whites in a very clean saucepan,
together with a port wine-glassful of white wine, and pour the
cleared syrup, little by little, over the egg-whites, whisking briskly
the while. Set the saucepan on the fire, and continue whisking
until the boil is reached; then move the utensil to a corner
of the stove, and keep the jelly only just simmering for one-quarter
of an hour.

At the end of that time the clarification is completed ; strain
the jelly through a woollen bag, placed over a very clean bowl,
and, if the jelly is turbid after the first time of straining, strain it
again and again until it becomes quite clear. Let it almost cool
before adding any flavour.

The Flavouring. — Whether the jelly be prepared from calves'
feet or from gelatine, the above preparation is naught else than a
cohered syrup, to which the addition of some flavour lends the
character of a jelly. The complementary ingredients for jellies are
liqueurs, good wines, and the juice of fruit ; and the quantity of water
prescribed should be so reduced as to allow for the ultimate
addition of the liquid flavouring.

Thus, every jelly of which the flavour is a liqueur ought to be
prepared with only nine-tenths of a quart of water; and the

ENTREMETS 767

remaining one-tenth of the measure is subsequently added in the
form of Kirsch, Maraschino, Rum, or Anisette, etc.

A jelly flavoured with a good wine, such as Champagne,
Madeira, Sherry, Marsala, etc., should contain only seven-tenths
of a quart of water and three-tenths of a quart of the selected
wine.

In the case of fruit jellies, the procedure differs in accordance
with the kind of fruit used.

For red-fruit jellies, prepared from strawberries, raspberries,
red-currants, cherries, and cranberries, these fruits, which should
be very ripe, are rubbed through a sieve, and combined with one-
tenth to three-tenths of a quart of water per lb., according as to
whether the fruit be more or less juicy.

This done, filter the resulting juice, and add it to the jelly in the
proportion of one part of the former to two parts of the latter.
The jelly should therefore be twice as strong as for the previous
preparation, in order that it may remain sufficiently consistent in
spite of the added juice.

When the fruit is too juicy, rub it through a sieve ; let the
juice ferment for a few hours, and only filter the clear juice which
results from the fermentation.

Aqueous-fruit jellies, prepared from grapes, oranges, lemons,
and tangerines, are made in the same way. The filtering of these
fruit juices is easily done, and, except for the grapes, they need not
be set to ferment.

When these fruits are not quite ripe, their juices may be added
to the jelly even before the clarification — a procedure which helps
to modify their acidity. The apportionment of the fruit juices
to the jelly is practically the same as that of the red-fruit juices.

Stone-fruit, such as apricots, peaches, nectarines, plums, etc., are
often used as jelly garnishes, but seldom serve as the flavouring
base of a jelly. Whenever they are treated in this way, they are
first plunged in boiling water, that they may be peeled ; they are
then poached and left to cool in the syrup which goes towards
preparing the jelly.

This jelly, after it has been clarified and three-parts cooled,
should have a little Kirsch or Maraschino added to it, that its
fruit flavour may be intensified.

2653— THE GARNISH AND ACCOMPANMENTS OF JELLIES

As a rule, jellies are served plain. Sometimes, however, they
are garnished with variously-shaped, stewed fruits, symmetrically
distributed in the jelly, with their colours nicely contrasted.

A jelly prepared in this way is called a " Suedoise of fruit."

768 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

2654— QEL^ES RUBANNEES

These are differently-flavoured and differently-coloured jellies,
moulded in alternate layers, even and equally thick.
They are generally served without garnish.

2655-JELLIES A LA RUSSE

These are ordinary jellies which are whisked over ice until they
begin to set. They are then speedily moulded. By skilfully
mixing two or three of these jellies, of different shades and
flavours, at the moment of moulding, very effective " Marbled
Jellies " are obtained.

2656— JELLIES A LA MOSCOVITE

These are ordinary jellies, poured into tightly-closing moulds,
the sealing of which is ensured by a thread of butter, laid round
the edges of the lids. The moulds are then surrounded with
broken ice, mixed with five lb. of freezing salt and eight oz. of
saltpetre per twenty-five lb. of ice.

The cold produced by the salted ice causes a frosted coat to
form round the jelly, the effect of which is exceedingly pretty.
But the moulds should be withdrawn from the ice as soon as the
frosted coat is formed and the jelly is set ; for a longer sojourn in
the cold would transform the jelly into an uneatable block of ice.

N.B. — Modern methods have greatly simplified the dishing and
serving of jellies. They are now dished in special silver bowls or
deep dishes, and they are not, as a rule, moulded. The bottom of
these utensils is sometimes decked with stewed fruit or macMoines
of fruit which are covered with the jelly ; and, as the latter is
served in the utensil itself, the quantity of gelatine may be
reduced, and greater delicacy is the result.

2657— PAINS DE FRUITS

These " pains " are made in ordinary Charlotte moulds.

Clothe the mould with a fairly thick coat of jelly, in keeping
with, the flavour of the fruit used, which may be apricots, straw-
berries, red-currants, cherries, peaches, etc. Fill up the mould
with a preparation, made as for a fruit Bavarois, but without
cream.

The amount of gelatine used should therefore be reduced.

2658— COLD PUDDINGS

Cold puddings have a great deal in common with Bavarois,
and, more often than not, these two kinds of sweets have the same
base. Their distinguishing difference lies in the fact that Bavarois
are generally served without a garnish or sauce, whereas puddings
always have either one or the other, and sometimes both.

ENTREMETS 769

The sauces for puddings are those given at the beginning of
this chapter.

Their garnishes always consist of fruit, and the latter is either
stewed and served separately, or it is candied and combined with
the pudding paste.

3659— PUDDING A LA BOH^MIENNE

Make some very small pancakes, and garnish them with a
salpicon of candied fruits and currants swelled in tepid water,
cohered with some fairly stiff, apple purde. Close up the pancakes
to the shape of balls or rectangles, and set them in a buttered
border-mould. Fill up the mould with a moulded-custard pre-
paration (No. 2639), containing a good proportion of whole eggs,
and poach in a bain-marie.

Leave the whole to cool in the mould ; turn out at the last
moment, and coat the pudding with a sabayon, flavoured according
to fancy.

2660— PUDDING DIPLOMATE

Decorate the bottom of an oiled deep Bavarois-mould with
pieces of candied fruit. Fill up the mould with alternate layers
of vanilla-flavoured Bavarois preparation and " lady's-finger-
biscuits," saturated with Kirsch. On each layer of biscuit sprinkle
some currants and raisins swelled in tepid water, and here and
there set a tablespoonful of apricot jam.

Let the contents of the mould set in the cool or on ice, and
turn out just before serving.

2661— PUDDING DIPLOMATE AUX FRUITS

Prepare the pudding as above, but spread a few extra layers of
fresh fruit in the mould, such as very ripe pears, peaches, apricots,
etc., all peeled, cut into thin slices, and previously macerated with
powdered sugar and half a port wine-glassful of either Kirsch,
Maraschino, or Anisette, etc.

When the pudding is turned out, surround its base with some
very cold stewed fruit the same as one of the kinds used inside
the pudding, or some stewed, mixed fruit.

2662— PUDDING MALAKOFF

Prepare (i) a gelatinous English custard, combined with one pint
of very fresh, raw cream per quart ; (2) a stew of apples and pears,
prepared as for an apple Charlotte ; currants and sultanas, swelled
in tepid syrup ; fresh splintered almonds ; candied orange rind,
cut into dice; slices of stale biscuit, or lady's-finger biscuits,
saturated with liqueur. Oil a Charlotte mould, and pour into it
a layer of cream half an inch thick. Upon this cream lay

3 D

770 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

a thickness of biscuits, copiously coated with marmalade, and
sprinkle with raisins, almonds and orange-rind dice.

Cover with a layer of cream ; lay a second thickness of biscuits,
and proceed thus in the same order with a Kirsch-flavoured cold
sabayon.

2663— PUDDINQ A LA NESSELRODE

To an English custard, prepared after No. 2397, add eight oz.
of a smooth, chestnut puree, and four oz. of currants and sultanas
(swelled in tepid water), and candied orange-rind and cherries,
cut into dice ; these four products should be in almost equal
quantities, and ought to have been previously macerated in
sweetened Madeira.

Add some Maraschino-flavoured, whipped cream to the pre-
paration ; apportioning it as for a Bavarois.

Garnish the bottom and sides of a Charlotte mould with white
paper ; pour the preparation into the mould ; completely close the
latter, sealing the lid down with a thread of butter, and surround
the utensil with plenty of salted ice. When about to serve, turn
out on a napkin ; remove the paper, and surround the base of the
pudding with a crown of fine, candied chestnuts, or balls of choco-
late-iced, candied chestnut purde.

N.B. — The English custard may be packed in the freezer,
mixed with whipped cream when it is almost congealed, and then
placed in a mould.

3664— PUDDINQ A LA RICHELIEU

Rub some stewed prunes through a fine sieve, and add to the
pur^e equal quantities of very stiff, Kirsch-flavoured jelly and the
reduced juice of the prunes. Let a layer three-quarters of an inch
thick, of the preparation set on the bottom of a Charlotte mould.
In the latter set a smaller mould (tinned outside), filled with
broken ice, and either fitted with handles that can rest on the brim
of the first mould, or else sufficiently deep to be easily grasped
and removed when necessary. The space between the sides of the
two moulds should measure about three-quarters of an inch.

Fill up this space with what remains of the prune pur^e,
thickened with jelly ; leave the preparation to set ; withdraw the
ice from the little mould ; pour some tepid water into the latter,
that it may be immediately detached from the surrounding,
iced preparation.

Fill the space left by the withdrawn mould with some vanilla-
flavoured Bavarois preparation ; leave to set, and turn out at the
last moment on a napkin.

ENTREMETS 771

2665— PUDDING OR " CR6mE REINE DES FEES "

Prepare the whites of four eggs as for Italian meringue (No.
2383), and add to the sugar, while cooking, its bulk of quince
jelly, and, at the last moment, one and a half ounces of candied
fruit, cut into dice, macerated in Kirsch and carefully drained. Set
the meringue, in shapes resembling large buttons, on a sheet of
paper.

Boil in a utensil large enough to take the sheet of paper, four
quarts of water, containing two and a half lb. of sugar and one-
quarter pint of Kirsch. Slip the sheet of paper into this boiling
syrup ; withdraw it as soon as it easily separates from the pieces
of meringue ; poach the latter ; drain them on a piece of linen
and let them cool.

Meanwhile, make two Bavarois preparations ; one white and
vanilla-flavoured, and the other pink and flavoured with Curagoa.
In these preparations the quantity of whisked cream should be
twice as much as for ordinary Bavarois, whereas the quantity of
gelatine should be reduced by half.

Set these preparations in even, alternate layers, in a slightly-
oiled lo&di- Madeleine mould, distributing the meringues between
each layer.

Cover the mould with a piece of paper and a lid, and keep it
surrounded by ice for two hours. When about to serve, turn it
out on a napkin.

COLD FRUIT ENTREMETS.
Apricots (Abricots).

2666— ABRICOTS A LA PARISIENNE

Poach the halved apricots in vanilla-flavoured syrup. Cool them
and drain them ; and reconstruct the apricots by joining the halves
together with a piece of vanilla ice-cream, the size of a walnut, in
the centre.

Set these apricots upon some large overturned macaroons ;
cover with vanilla-flavoured Chantilly cream, shaped like a cone,
and sprinkle with fine filbert /r«/2«.

2667-ABRICOTS A LA ROYALE

Take some fairly deep tartlet moulds, and set in them some fine,
cold, half-apricots, poached in vanilla-flavoured syrup. Fill up the
tartlet moulds with very limpid, Kirsch-flavoured jelly.

Prepare a shallow, G^noise border, glazed with red-currant jelly,
cooked to the small-thread stage, and sprinkle with chopped
pistachios.

3 D 2

772 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

Turn out the tartlets of apricot jelly arid place them in a crown
over the border. Garnish the centre of the latter with chopped
anisette-flavoured pink jelly.

Pine-apple (Ananas).
2668- ANANAS QEORaETTE

Take a fine whole pine-apple, and hollow it out to within half
an inch of its outside all round and at the bottom. Put aside the
slice cut from the top, on which is the bunch of leaves.

Fill the inside with a Bavarois preparation made from pine-
apple pur^e, combined with the withdrawn pine-apple pulp, cut
into thin slices, and leave to set. Dish on a napkin, and return the
top slice to the pine-apple, that it may seem untouched.

2669— ANANAS A LA VIRQINIE

Proceed exactly as above, but replace the pine-apple Bavarois
preparation by a strawberry kind, combined, as before, with the
pulp withdrawn from the inside of the pine-apple, cut into dice.

2670— ANANAS A LA NINON

L'ne the sides of a souffle timbale with vanilla ice-cream, laying
it in an oblique strip from the edge of the utensil to the centre of
the bottom of the timbale. Upon this layer of ice-cream set
two or three rows of thin pine-apple slices, in such a way as to
make the slices of the last row project beyond the edge of the
timbale.

In the centre of the mould build a pyramid of wild straw-
berries ; cover this with a raspberry pur6e, and sprinkle the latter
with chopped pistachios.

2670a— PINE-APPLE A LA ROYALE

Take a fresh pine-apple and cut a slice from its top, contain-
ing the bunch of leaves. Withdraw the pulp from the inside,
and leave a thickness r f about half an inch all round and on the
bottom.

Fill it with a maMoine of fresh fruit macerated in Kirsch ; set
it in the middle of a crystal bowl ; and surround the base with
a crown of fine Montreuil peaches, poached in a vanilla-flavoured
syrup, alternated by large strawberries, macerated in Kirsch.

Return the bunch of leaves to its place upon the pine-apple.

ENTREMETS 773

Cherries (Cerises).

2671— CERISES A LA DUBARRY

Line a flawn-ring with good, short paste ; set it on a small
round baking-sheet ; prick the paste on the bottom to prevent
its blistering while baking, sprinkle with powdered sugar, and
garnish with fine, stoned cherries, pressed snugly one against the
other.

Bake the flawn in the usual way and let it cool.

When it is quite cold cover the cherries with Chantilly cream,
combined either with ordinary pralm or with crushed macaroons.

Smooth the surface of the cream, as also the sides of the
flawn ; cover it with macaroon powder, and then decorate by
means of the piping-bag with white and pink Chantilly cream.

2672— CERISES AU CLARET

Select some fine cherries ; cut off the ends of their stalks, and
set them in a silver timbale. Pour sufficient sweetened Bordeaux
wine (flavoured with a mite of cinnamon) over them, to just cover
them. Close the timbale, and keep it on the side of the fire for ten
minutes, that the cherries may poach.

Let them cool in the syrup ; drain the latter away ; reduce
it by a third, and add, in order to thicken it slightly, one table-
spoonful of red-currant jelly per six tablespoonfuls of reduced
syrup.

Serve the cherries quite cold, and some lady's-finger biscuits
separately.

Strawberries (Praises).

2673— PRAISES A LA CREOLE

Set some fine strawberries and an equal amount of pine-apple,
cut into dice, to macerate in powdered sugar and Kirsch.

Arrange a close crown of pine-apple slices, also macerated in
Kirsch, upon a tazza. In the middle of the crown build a pyramid
of the strawberries and pine-apple, and sprinkle with a Kirsch-
flavoured syrup.

2674— PRAISES FEMINA

Select some fine strawberries ; sprinkle them with sugar and
Grand-Marnier Curasao, and leave them to macerate on ice for
an hour.

When about to serve, spread on the bottom of a bowl or
timbale a layer of orange-ice (which should be combined with the
macerating liqueur) and set the strawberries thereon.

774 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

2675— PRAISES MARGUERITE

Set some wild strawberries to macerate in sugar and Kirsch.
Drain them ; cohere them with an equal quantity of pomegranate
sherbet ; set them in a silver timbale, already surrounded with ice ;
cover the strawberries with Maraschino-flavoured Chantilly cream,
and decorate with the latter.

2676— PRAISES MARQUISE

Set in a timbale surrounded with ice some Chantilly cream,
combined with half its bulk of a puree of wild strawberries.
Completely cover this cream with fine, fair-sized selected straw-
berries (macerated with Kirsch), rolled at the last minute in semolina
sugar.

2677— PRAISES MELBA

Garnish the bottom of a timbale with vanilla ice-cream. Upon
this arrange a layer of choice strawberries, and cover the latter with
a thick, slightly-sugared, fresh raspberry puree.

2678— PRAISES NINA

Prepare the strawberries as directed under No. 2675, and
cohere them with pine-apple sherbet. Dish them as before in a
timbale, and cover them with some Chantilly cream, tinted pink by
means of a red-capsicum pur^e flavoured with ginger.

2679— PRAISES ROMANOPP

Macerate some fine strawberries with orange juice and Curasao.
Set them in a timbale surrounded with ice, and cover them with
Chantilly cream, laid upon them by means of a piping-bag, fitted
with a large, grooved pipe.

2680-PRAISES WILHELMINE

Macerate some fine, large strawberries with Kirsch, powdered
sugar, and orange juice. Dish them in a timbale and serve a
vanilla-flavoured Chantilly cream separately.

2681— PRAISES LERINA

Take a small black melon of Carmes ; open it by cutting out a
bung-shaped piece containing the stalk, and remove all its seeds.
Then cut out all the pulp, by means of a dessert-spoon, and
sprinkle it with powdered sugar.

Macerate the required number of strawberries in L6rina
liqueur.

Garnish the inside of the melon with these strawberries and the
withdrawn pulp ; close the melon by replacing the bung cut out at

ENTREMETS 775

the start, and keep in a refrigerator for two hours, surrounded
by ice.

Dish on a napkin at the last moment.

2682— PRAISES "RfeVE DE b6b6 "

Select a fair-sized, very ripe pine-apple, cut off a slice of it at the
top and withdraw all its pulp without bursting the rind.

Prepare a square cushion of G^noise, about two inches thick ;
slightly hollow it out towards its centre, that the emptied pine-
apple may be set upright upon it ; and stick the cushion upon a
dry-paste base, of the same size and shape as the former. Glaze
the Ginoise cushion with pink fondant, decorate with "royale"
glaze, and set a large strawberry at each corner.

Slice half of the withdrawn pine-apple pulp, and macerate it
with Kirsch, Maraschino and sugar. Pound the remaining pulp
and press it in order to extract its juice.

Set to macerate with this pine-apple juice a sufiScient quantity
of strawberries to three-parts fill the pine-apple.

When about to serve, fill the emptied pine-apple with successive
and alternate layers of pine-apple with Kirsch and strawberries ;
and, between each layer, spread a coat of vanilla-flavoured,
Chantilly cream.

Close the pine-apple with the slice cut ofif at the start, and set it

upright in the hollow of the cushion. Serve the preparation very

cold.

2683— PRAISES A LA RITZ

Set some well-sugared and cooled strawberries in a timbale, and
cover them with the following preparation : rub half-pound of wild
strawberries through a sieve ; add a little Melba sauce to the
puree, that it may acquire a pink tint ; and then add the same
quantity of very stiff vanilla-flavoured Chantilly cream.

Thoroughly cool these strawberries before serving them.

2684— PRAISES CARDINAL

Set some fine, cooled strawberries in a timbale ; coat them with
Melba sauce, or a puree of fresh raspberries, and sprinkle the
latter with splintered fresh almonds.

2685— PRAISES ZELMA KUNTZ

Set some fine, cooled strawberries in a timbale. Cover them
with a raspberry pur^e, combined with an equal quantity of
Chantilly cream.

Decorate, by means of the piping-bag, with Chantilly cream,
and sprinkle with a powdered /r«//« of filberts.

776 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

Gooseberries (Groseilles vertes).

2686— QOOSEBERRY FOOL

Poach one pound of green gooseberries in some thin syrup.
When they are cooked, thoroughly drain them ; rub them through
a sieve, and collect the pur^e in a flat saucepan.

Work this purde on ice, and add the necessary amount of icing
sugar to it.

The amount of the icing sugar varies according to the acidity of
the fruit and the sweetness of the poaching-syrup.

Combine with the puree an equal quantity of very stiffly whipped
cream ; set the preparation in the shape of a dome in a timbale :
decorate its surface, by means of a piping-bag, with Chantilly
cream, and serve very cold.

Tangerines (Mandarines).

3687— MANDARINES ALMINA

Cut a slice of the rind from the stem-end of the tangerines by
means of a round, even cutter, one inch in diameter. Then empty
them, and fill the rinds with a preparation of Bavarois with violets,
combined with crumbled lady's-finger biscuits, sprinkled with
Maraschino. Close the tangerines with the slice cut off at the
start ; let them set in a cool place, and, at the last moment, lay
them on a dish covered with a folded napkin.

2688— MANDARINES A LA CRfiME

Empty the tangerines, and fill their peels with a somewhat
thick tangerine Bavarois preparation, combined with a third of its
bulk of fresh, raw cream.

Place them in ice until they have to be served ; dish them as
directed in the preceding recipe.

2689— MANDARINES EN SURPRISE

Proceed as for the oranges, but for the orange ice sub-
stitute tangerine jelly.

Oranges.

2690— ORANGES AU BLANC=MANQER

Cut the oranges and empty them as directed in the case of
tangerines. Then fill them with French blanc-mange (No. 2625),
and let it set. Close the oranges with the slices cut off at the start,
and dish them on a napkin.

ENTREMETS 777

2691— ORANGES RUBANNEES

Garnish the empty orange-rinds with regular layers of vari-
ously coloured and flavoured blanc-manges, or with alternated fruit
jellies. When about to serve, quarter the oranges.

N.B. — These quartered oranges are sometimes used for the
garnishing of cold entremets.

2692— ORANGES EN SURPRISE

Cut a lateral slice from each orange, representing about one-fourth
of their height, and empty them. Garnish the peels with orange ice ;
cover the latter with Italian meringue ; set the garnished peels
on broken ice, lying on a tray, and set them in a sufficiently hot
oven, to quickly colour the meringue. On taking the oranges out
of the oven, close each with the slices cut from them at the start,
in which are stuck imitation leaves and stalks, made from pulled
sugar. Dish them on a napkin.

2693— ORANGES SOUFFLEES EN SURPRISE

Empty the oranges as above ; garnish the rinds with an orange
sauffli preparation, and cook the latter.

On taking the oranges out of the oven, cover the souffle with
the slices cut off at the start ; dish the oranges on a napkin, and
serve them instantly.

Peaches and Nectarines (Peches et Nectarines).

As nectarines may be prepared after the same recipes as
peaches, there is no need to give special recipes for the former.

2694— PECHES AIGLON

After having peeled the peaches, poach them in a vanilla-
flavoured syrup, and leave them to cool therein. Drain them,
dish them upon a layer of vanilla ice-cream, spread in a false-
bottomed silver timbale, the inner compartment of which contains
broken ice. Sprinkle crystallised violets over the peaches ; set
the timbale on a block of ice, carved to represent an eagle, and
cover the whole with a veil of spun sugar.

2695— PECHES A L'AURORE

Poach the peeled peaches in a Kirsch-flavoured syrup, and let
them cool there. Drain them ; dish them in a silver timbale,
upon a layer of "iced mousse with strawberries," and coat the
whole with a Curagoa-flavoured sabayon.

2696— PECHES ALEXANDRA

Poach the peaches in a vanilla-flavoured syrup and let them
completely cool. Dish them in a timbale surrounded by ice.

778 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

containing on its bottom a layer of vanilla ice-cream, covered with
a strawberry pur^e. Sprinkle the peaches with white and red
rose-petals, and veil the whole with spun sugar.

2697— P^CHES CARDINAL

Poach the peaches in vanilla-flavoured syrup, and, when they
are quite cold, dish them in a timbale. Cover them with a very
red, sweetened, raspberry pur6e, flavoured with Kirsch, and
sprinkled with very white, splintered fresh almonds.

2698— PfeCHES DAME-BLANCHE

Poach the peaches in vanilla-flavoured syrup. When they are
cold, set them in a timbale upon a layer of vanilla ice-cream,
covered with thin slices of pine-apple macerated in Maraschino
and Kirsch.

Between each peach, and in every crevice, put some balls of
Chantilly cream, laid by means of a piping-bag, fitted with a
grooved pipe.

2699— PECHES MELBA

Poach the peaches in vanilla-flavoured syrup. Dish them in a
timbale upon a layer of vanilla ice-cream, and coat them with a
raspberry purde.

2700— PECHES PETIT- DUC

Prepare the peaches as under No. 2698, but use small heaps of
red-currant jelly instead of balls of cream.

2701— PECHES A LA SULTANE

Poach the peaches in vanilla-flavoured syrup, and let them cool.

Dish them in a timbale upon a layer of pistachio ice, and coat
them with very cold, thickened syrup, flavoured with rose essence.

Veil the whole with spun sugar, and set the timbale upon a
block of ice.

3702— PECHES AU CHATEAU -LAFFITE

Scald the peaches ; peel them, and cut them in two.

Poach them in sufficient Chateau-Laffite wine to cover them,
and sugar the wine to the extent of ten oz. of sugar per bottle.

Leave them to cool in the syrup, and dish them in a silver
timbale.

Reduce the wine by three-quarters ; thicken it with a little
raspberry-flavoured, red-currant jelly.

When this syrup is quite cold, sprinkle the peaches with it.

ENTREMETS 779

2703— PITCHES A LTMPI^RATRICE

Cut the peaches in two ; poach them in a vanilla-flavoured
syrup, and let them cool. Then drain and dry them ; garnish the
cut side of each of the half-peaches with enough vanilla ice-cream
to give them the appearance of whole fruit. Coat the peach-side
of each with some stiff apricot sauce, and roll them in pralined
splintered almonds.

Dish these peaches upon a cushion of Genoise, saturated with
Kirsch and Maraschino, set upon a dry-paste base, and glazed with
raspberry glaze.

Veil the whole with spun sugar.

3704— PECHES ROSE=CHERI

Poach the peaches in vanilla-flavoured syrup, and let them
cool. Dish them in a timbale ; cover them with a puree of pine-
apple with Clicquot, and serve very cold.

370s— PECHES ROSE-POMPON

Scald and peel some fine peaches ; poach them in vanilla-
flavoured syrup, and let them cool. Stone them without opening
or breaking them overmuch, and in the place of the stone, put
some very firm vanilla ice-cream.

Set these reconstructed peaches in a silver timbale, upon a
layer of raspberry ice ; cover them with pralined Chantilly cream ;
and before serving put them for thirty minutes in the refrigerator.

At the last moment, veil the timbale with pink, spun sugar.

Pears (Poires).

2706— POIRES ALMA

Peel the pears and poach them in a syrup made from one
quart of water, one-half pint of port wine, eight ounces of sugar, and
the blanched and chopped zest of an orange. Cool : dish them
in a timbale ; sprinkle them with powdered pralin, and serve a
Chantilly cream at the same time.

2707— POIRES CARDINAL

Poach the pears in a vanilla-flavoured syrup, and then proceed
as directed under No. 2697.

2708— POIRES A LA CARIQNAN

Evenly turn some very fine dessert pears, and cook them in a
vanilla-flavoured syrup ; keeping them fairly firm. Drain them on
a dish and let them cool. This done, trim them flat at their base,
and empty them from underneath by means of a root spoon, after
having outlined the circumference of the opening with an even
round cutter.

78o GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

Fill them with a preparation of " Bombe au chocolat praline "
(No 2826).

Close them up with a little roundel of Genoise, stamped out by
means of the same cutter as that used above.

Set the pears on a tray ; coat them speedily with apricot jam
cooked to the small-thread stage ; glaze them with chocolate
fondant, and keep them for three hours in a very cold refrigerator.
Meanwhile, prepare as many small Genoise squares as there are
pears ; and make them one-quarter inch wider than the diameter of
the pears. Saturate these square bases with Anisette, and by means
of a little apricot jam cooked to the small-tlu-ead stage, stick each
of them on to very thin, dry-paste bases of the same size. Coat
these prepared bases with the same apricot jam, and garnish them
all round, as also their uncovered corners, with pralined splintered
almonds.

When about to serve, take the pears out of the refrigerator, set
them on these bases : stick into each a stalk and a leaf, made from
pulled sugar ; and dish on a napkin.

N.B. — Each pear should be cut vertically into two, three, or four
pieces, subject to its size.

2709— POIRES FELICIA

Poach some quartered William pears in vanilla-flavoured syrup,
and let them cool. Cook also, in a pink syrup, some very small
halved pears.

Dish the quarters in the middle of a border of Viennese cream
(No. 2641) laid out upon a dish. Cover them with a pyramid of
vanilla-flavoured Chantilly cream, and sprinkle its surface with
crushed, red pralines.

Surround the cream border with the pink half-pears.

2710— POIRES A LA FLORENTINE

Fill an oiled border-mould with a semolina Bavarois prepara-
tion, and let it set. Turn it out at the last moment, and garnish
the middle of the border with stewed pears, cohered by means of a
vanilla-flavoured apricot puree.
271 1— POIRES HELENE

Poach the pears in vanilla-flavoured syrup and let them cool.

When about to serve, dish them in a timbale upon a layer of
vanilla ice-cream, sprinkled with crystallised violets.
Serve a hot, chocolate sauce separately.

2712— POIRES MARQUISE

Cook the pears in a vanilla-flavoured syrup, and drain them
that they may cool. This done, coat them again and again with

ENTREMETS 781

some very stiff raspberry-flavoured red-currant jelly, and sprinkle
them instantly with chopped, burnt almonds.

Set the pears on a "Diplomatic Pudding," made in a manqud
mould, and turned out on a round dish. Surround the base of the
pudding with a border of apple-jelly cro'dtons, neatly cut to
triangular shapes.

2713— POIRES MARY-GARDEN

Cook the pears in syrup ; cool them, and dish them on a
timbale, upon a Melba sauce, combined with half-sugared cherries,
softened in tepid water for a few minutes.

Decorate the pears with Chantilly cream.

2714— POIRES MELBA

Poach the pears in a vanilla-flavoured syrup, and proceed as
directed under No. 2699.

2715— POIRES PRALINEES

Stew the pears and let them cool. Set them in a timbale, and
coat with some Frangipan cream, thinned by means of a little raw
cream.

Between each pear, set a well-moulded tablespoonful of Chan-
tilly cream, and cover the whole with concassed-3ilmond pralin.

Serve a cold or hot chocolate sauce at the same time.

2716— POIRES A LA RELIGIEUSE

Stew the pears in a vanilla-flavoured syrup ; cool them, and
dish them in a shallow porcelain timbale equal in depth to the length
of the pears.

Cover them with a somewhat thin chocolate Bavarois pre-
paration, and place the whole for two hours in the refrigerator
before serving.

2717— POIRES AU RHUM

Stew the pears and set them in a timbale.

Thicken the syrup with arrowroot, colour it faintly with pink ;
flavour it with rum ; pour it over the pears, and let them cool.

N.B. — These pears may also be served hot, after the same
recipe ; except that the rum is poured over the pears, hot, at the
last moment, and set alight at the table.

2718— POIRES A LA REINE EMMA

Mould a Flamri preparation in an even border-mould, decor-
ated with candied fruit. Set this to poach, and, when it is cold,
turn it out on a round dish.

In the middle set a pyramid of quartered pears, stewed in a
vanilla-flavoured syrup ; coat the quarters with Frangipan cream,

782 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

combined with a quarter of its bulk of crushed, dry macaroons,
and with double its volume of very stiff Chantilly cream.

Decorate the top, by means of a piping-bag, with Chantilly
cream ; and serve some Kirsch-flavoured apricot sauce separately.

Apples.

2719— POMMES A LA ROYALE

Peel some small apples, core them by means of a tube-cutter,
and poach them in vanilla-flavoured syrup. When they are quite
cold, coat them with red-currant jelly, and dish them in a circle,
each upon a tartlet of blanc-mange. Garnish their midst with
chopped Maraschino jelly.

Various Cold Sweets (Entremets).

2720— BISCUIT A LA REINE

Cook, in a manqud mould, a Savoy-biscuit preparation, and let
it cool.

With a little apricot jam, cooked to the small-thread stages-
stick this biscuit on a dry- paste base ; saturate it with cold syrup,
flavoured with Kiimmel, and by means of a piping-bag decorate
it all round and on its edges with royale icing.

Turn out upon it a Bavarois with Maraschino, moulded in a
Richelieu mould of proportionate size.

2721— CROCTE A LA MEXICAINE

Cut some slices three inches long by one-third inch thick
from a stale Genoise. Coat them with a Cond^ pralin, and dry
them in a moderate oven.

Set these crofltes in a crown on a round dish, and garnish their
midst with a rocky pyramid of plombiere ice, projecting above
them.

2722— DIPLOMATE ALX FRUITS

Prepare (i) a base of Genoise with fruit, glazed with apricot
jam, cooked to the small-thread stage ; (2) a Bavarois with fruits.

Turn out the latter upon the former, and surround the whole
with stewed fruit of the same kind as those used for the Bavarois.

2723— ILE FLOTTANTE

Take a stale Savoy biscuit, and cut it into thin slices.

Saturate the latter with Kirsch and Maraschino, coat them
with apricot jam, and sprinkle the latter with currants and
chopped almonds. Put the slices one upon the other, in suchwise

ENTREMETS 783

as to reconstruct the biscuit, and coat the latter with a layer of
sweetened and vanilla-flavoured Chantilly cream.

Sprinkle the cream with splintered pistachios and currants;
set the whole on a tazza, and surround it with vanilla-flavoured
English custard, or raspberry syrup.

2724— MILK JUNKET

Gently heat one quart of milk. When it has reached 95° F. take
it off" the fire ; add two and one-half oz. of sugar to it ; flavour it as
fancy may suggest ; put into it six drops of russet-apple essence
(or two pastils of russet-apple essence, dissolved in six drops of
water) ; pour it into a timbale, and serve it very cold.

N.B. — This very delicate and simple entremet is little else, in-
deed, than flavoured and sweetened milk, caused to set by the
combined agencies of heat and russet-apple essence.

2725— JWACJfeDOINE OF COOLED FRUIT

Take some fresh fruit of the season, such as ripe William
pears and peaches, peeled and sliced apricots and bananas, and
add to it some small or large strawberries, raspberries, white-
and red-currants ; skinned, fresh almonds, etc.

Set these fruits in a timbale surrounded by ice, mixing them
well together; sprinkle them with a syrup at 30° (saccharom.),
flavoured with Kirsch or Maraschino, and let them macerate for
an hour or two ; taking care to'toss them from time to time.

2726— EUGENIA: ITALIAN CREAM

Select some very ripe Eugenia ; peel, slice, and set to macerate
in a bowl, with Maraschino-flavoured syrup.

Set the fruit in a timbale, upon a layer of vanilla ice-cream ;
decorate them on top with Chantilly cream, and sprinkle the
latter with crystallised violets.

2727— MARQUISE ALICE

Prepare a /ra^/m-flavoured Bavarois in a manqud mould :
garnish the inside with lady's-finger biscuits, saturated with
Anisette.

Turn it out on a dish, and completely cover it with an even
coat of very stiff, sweetened and vanilla-flavoured Chantilly
cream.

On top, lay some parallel lines of red-currant jelly, by means
of the piping-bag ; and then cut these lines at right angles, with
the point of a small knife. Surround the base with small puff-
paste triangles, coated with " Pralin a Condd" dried in the oven.

784 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

2728— MELON A L'ORIENTALE

Take a melon that is just ripe ; make a circular incision round
its stalk, and remove the resulting bung. Get rid of the seeds and
withdraw the pulp by means of a silver spoon. Cut the pulp into
dice.

Copiously sprinkle the inside of the melon with icing-sugar
and fill it up with wild strawberries and the pulp dice, spread in
alternate layers, sprinkled with sugar. Complete with one-sixth
pint of Kirsch ; close the melon with the excised bung, seal the joint
with a thread of butter, and keep the melon in the cool for two
hours.

Dish it on a napkin, and serve gaufrettes at the same time.

2729— MELON FRAPPJ^

Select two very ripe, medium-sized melons, and, with the entire
pulp of one of them, cleared of all the rind and seeds and rubbed
through tammy, prepare a Granit6 after No. 2980.

Cut the other melon round the stalk and open it. Completely
remove the seeds ; and, by means of a silver spoon, withdraw the
pulp piecemeal, and set it to macerate on ice with a little sugar and
one of the following wines or liqueurs : Port, Curagoa, Rum, Kirsch
or Maraschino.

Keep the emptied rind for thirty minutes in a refrigerator.

When about to serve, set the emptied melon on a small block of
fancifully carved ice, and fill it up with the Granite and the macerated
pulp spread in alternate layers. When the melon is full, return the
excised bung to its place.

N.B. — This melon is served, by means of a spoon, upon iced
plates, and it often takes the place of ices at the end of a dinner.

2730— MELON EN SURPRISE

Empty the melon as above, and fill it with a macidoine of fresh
fruits, combined with the withdrawn pulp of the melon, cut into dice
and cohered with a sugared and Kirsch-flavoured puree of wild
strawberries.

Close the melon and keep it in the refrigerator for two hours.

2731— GARNISHED MERINGUES

Join the meringue shells together in couples, by means of some
stiff sugared and flavoured Chantilly cream or with some sort of ice,
and dish them on a napkin.

2732— MONT= BLANC AUX PRAISES

Add some small wild strawberries macerated in cold, vanilla-
flavoured syrup and drained, to some very stiff Chantilly cream ; the
proportions being four oz. of the former per quart of the latter.

ENTREMETS 785

Dish in the shape of a dome ; surround the base with large straw-
berries, rolled in beaten egg-whites and then in semolina sugar, and
decorate the surface with large and very red half-strawberries.

2733— MONT-BLANC AUX MARRONS

Cook some chestnuts in sweetened and vanilla-flavoured milk
and rub them through a sieve, over an overturned, even border-
mould ; in order that the chestnut puree, falling in the form of
vermicelli, may garnish the mould naturally.

Fill up the mould with the pured that has fallen over the sides
of the mould ; turn out the border on a dish, and in the midst set
an irregular and jagged mound of sugared and vanilla-flavoured
Chantilly cream.

2734— MONT- ROSE

Prepare a Charlotte, Plombi^re in a shallow Madeleine ice-
mould.

Having turned out the Charlotte on a dish, cover it on top with
tablespoon fuls of Chantilly cream, combined with a puree of fresh
raspberries, and so shaped as to imitate a pyramidic rock.

2735— CEUFS A LA NEIQE

Mould some ordinary meringue, by means of a spoon, to repre-
sent eggs ; and drop the mouldings into a saut^pan containing some
boiling sugared and vanilla-flavoured milk. Turn the meringues over
in the milk, that they may poach evenly, and, as soon as they are
firm, drain them in a sieve.

Strain the milk through muslin ; add six egg yolks, and with it
prepare an English custard.

Set the egg-shaped meringues on a tazza and cover them with
the prepared custard, kept very cold.

2736— MOULDED (EUFS A LA NEIGE

Prepare the meringues and the English custard as above ; but
to the latter add five or six gelatine leaves soaked in cold water.
Set the egg-shaped meringues in an oiled border-mould ; cover them
with the very cold custard, which, however, should not have set ;
and let the preparation set in the cool, or surrounded by ice.

2737— MOUSSELINES D'OEUFS REJANE

By means of a piping-bag, fitted with an even pipe, lay some
ordinary meringues upon sheets of white paper, in shapes resembling
large macaroons.

Slip the sheets of paper into boiling, sugared and vanilla-
flavoured milk, and withdraw the sheets of paper as soon as the

3 E

786 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

meringues sever from them. Complete the poaching of the meringues,
and drain them.

Set these meringues, two by two, in silver or porcelain egg-dishes ;
place a fine, poached half apricot in the middle of each, and cover
the whole with a few teaspoonfuls of English custard.

2738— MOUSSELINE OF EQQS, MIMI

This is a preparation of ordinary Italian meringue, poached in a
bain-mar ie,'\x\ z. c2,xz.va.€^-clothed vsxoxAA. Let the contents get quite
cold before turning out, and serve some stewed, fresh fruit and an
English custard separately.

2739— RICE A L'lMPlgRATRICE

Make a vanilla-flavoured preparation of rice for entremets,
using the quantities of milk and sugar already prescribed. When
the rice is cooked, and somewhat cold, add to it four oz. of a
salpicon of candied fruit and four tablespoonfuls of apricot jam, per
one-half lb. of raw rice. Then combine with it an equal quantity of
Kirsch-flavoured Bavarois preparation, or one pint of thick English
custard and one pint of whipped cream.

Let a layer of red-currant jelly set upon the bottom of a Bavarois
mould ; then pour the above preparation into the latter and let the
whole set, either in the cool or surrounded by ice.

When about to serve, turn out on a napkin.

2740— RICE A LA MALTAISE

Prepare the rice with milk as above, but flavour it with orange
rind, and omit the apricot jam and the candied fruit salpicon.
Combine with it an equal quantity of orange Bavarois preparation ;
pour the whole into a dome-mould, and let it set on ice. When
about to serve, turn out upon a round dish, and cover it with
alternate rows of orange-sections, skinned raw and macerated in a
syrup flavoured with orange-rind.

2741— SUEDOISE OP FRUIT

As I mentioned in my remarks upon the preparation of jellies,
a Su6doise of fruit is a jelly moulded in an aspic mould and
garnished with layers of stewed fruit, the colours and kinds
of which should be contrasted as much as possible.

2742— FRAISALIA TIMBALE

Prepare a timbale of Savarjn paste in a Charlotte mould.

When it is baked and cooled, remove the crumb from its inside
leaving a thickness of half an inch on its bottom and sides ; smear it
thinly with Kirsch-flavoured syrup, and return the timbale to the
mould.

ENTREMETS 787

Now garnish it with alternate layers of vanilla-flavoured,
Bavarois preparation and wild strawberries, macerated in Kirsch.
Let it set in the cool, or surround the mould with ice. Turn out
the timbale first upon a plate ; overturn it on a dish, and upon it
set a pyramid of vanilla-flavoured Chantilly cream. Stud the latter
all over with small, very red strawberries, or garnish it with large
half-strawberries.

Surround the timbale with fine dice of strawberry jelly.

2743— TIVOLI AUX PRAISES

Clothe an ornamented mould, fitted with a central tube, with a
thick coat of very clear, Kirsch-flavoured jelly. Fill the mould
with a Bavarois preparation, combined with plenty of wild straw-
berry puree, and let its contents set. Turn it out, when about to
serve, and surround it with very clear, chopped, Kirsch-flavoured
jelly.

3 E 2

CHAPTER XX.

ICES.

Ices, with their accompanying " pctits fours," bring the dinner
to a close — at least as far as Cookery is concerned ; and, when they
are well prepared and daintily dished, they are the consummation
of all that is delicate and good. In no other department of the
work has the culinary artist so freely indulged his fancy, or created
such delectable kickshaws ; and, though Italy be the cradle of the
ice-worker's art, though the Neapolitans have deservedly maintained
their reputation as authorities in this matter, to French workmen,
certainly, is due the credit of those innovations which have perfected
this important branch of dietetic science.

2744— THE MAKING OF ICES

Whatever be the kind of ices required, they should always
be prepared in advance ; for none of these preparations can be
made reaiy at a moment's notice.

Tliere are two distinct operations in the confection of ices : —

(i) The making of the preparation.

(2) The freezing and the moulding of the preparation. I shall
begin by dealing with the second operation, which remains the
same for all ices, and is the essential part of the procedure.

To freeze an ice preparation is to surround it with broken ice,
mixed with sodium chloride (sea-salt or freezing salt) and saltpetre.
The action of these two salts upon the ice causes a considerable
drop in the temperature, which speedily congeals any contiguous
liquid. Subject to their nature, ices are either moulded and frozen
directly in their moulds, like the light ices : iced Biscuits, iced
Souffle, Puddings, Mottsses, Parfaits, Bombes, etc. ; or first frozen
in a special utensil called a freezer, and then moulded and frozen
afresh. Cream and syrup ices are prepared by the second method ;
and this I shall now describe.

The freezers, in which the freezing takes place, are gejierally
wielded by hand, either directly or by means of some mechanism.
They should be of pure tin, and fitted, at their base, on to a central

ICES 789

pivot which turns in a socket, fixed in the wooden case which holds
the freezer.

Having hermetically closed the latter, surround it with broken ice
containing three lbs. of salt and eight oz. of saltpetre per twenty-
five lbs.

The freezer should be one-third of its height out of the ice, in
order that no particle of salted ice may accidentally fall into
the preparation while it is being frozen. The ice should be snugly
massed, by means of a special pestle, round the freezer. This
operation constitutes the packing, and should be effected at least
ten minutes in advance if possible.

Having thus prepared the freezer, pour into it the preparation
to be frozen and then either keep it in motion by rocking the
utensil to and fro, by grasping the handle on the cover (if the
apparatus is worked by hand), or by turning the handle if the
utensil is on a central axle, fitted with the usual mechanism. In
either case, the rotary movement of the utensil causes the prepara-
tion to splash continually against the sides of the freezer, where it
rapidly congeals, and the congealed portions are removed by means
of a special spatula, as quickly as they form, until the whole
becomes a smooth and homogeneous mass. The delicacy and
creaminess of the ice depend a great deal upon the care with which
this freezing operation is effected ; hence the preference which is
now given to freezers fitted with a mechanism whereby two fans
revolve inside in a direction opposite to that of the body of the
machine, and thus not only detach the congealed portions of the
preparation under treatment from the sides of the receptacle, but
also work it with a regularity impossible to human motion.

274s— THE MOULDING OF ICES

Having thus frozen the preparation, it may now be set in rock-
form on a napkin, as it used sometimes to be served in the past,
or in glasses. But as a rule it is put into special moulds, having
closely-fitting covers. These moulds should be carefully filled, and
banged on a folded napkin, that the ice may settle and drive out
any air which might be the cause of holes being found in the
preparation. When it is filled, place the mould in a receptacle of a
suitable size, and surround it with broken ice, prepared as for the
packing. The mould should remain at least an hour in the ice, in
the case of an ordinary ice, and an extra two hours if the ice
be light and not previously frozen as are the Bombes.

When about to serve, take the mould out of the ice ; wash it to
rid it of the taint of salt ; dip it in tepid water for an instant, that
the surface of the preparation inside may melt and separate easily

790 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

from the mould. Overturn the mould ; and turn out the ice upon
a folded napkin lying on a dish.

2746— PREPARATIONS FOR SIMPLE ICES

Preparations for simple ices are of two kinds : those made from
cream, and those made from syrup ; the latter being principally
used for fruit ices.

As the quantities of sugar and eggs used for these preparations
vary exceedingly, the following recipes have been based upon a
working average.

If creamier ices be required, all that is needed is an increase in
the sugar and egg-yolks per quart of milk ; while, if the ices be
required harder but less creamy, the two ingredients above
mentioned should be proportionately reduced.

As an example of the difference that may exist between cream
preparations, I might instance the case of ice-cream, which may be
made from seven to sixteen egg-yolks, and six oz. to one lb. of
sugar per quart of milk. In regard to ices made from syrups and
fruit, their preparations may measure from 15° to 30° or 32°.
(saccharometer) respectively.

2747— ICE-CREAM PREPARATION (Generic Recipe)

Work two-thirds lb. of sugar and ten egg-yolks in a saucepan
until the mixture reaches the ribbon-stAge. Dilute it, little by little,
with one quart of boiling milk, and stir over a moderate fire until
the preparation veneers the withdrawn spoon. Avoid boiling, as it
might decompose the custard.

Strain the whole into a basin and stir it from time to time until
it is quite cold.

N.B. — For the various ice-cream preparations, the amount of
sugar and number of egg-yolks, as also the procedure, do not
change. They are only distinguishable by the particular flavour
or infusion which may happen to characterise them.

Various Ice-Cream Preparations.

2748— ALMOND ICE-CREAM

Finely pound three and a half oz. of freshly-skinned sweet
almonds and five bitter almonds ; adding to them, little by little, in
order to facilitate the pounding, a few tablespoonfuls of water.

Set this almond paste to infuse, twenty minutes beforehand, in
the boiling milk, and prepare the cream as directed above, with the
same quantities of sugar and egg-yolks.

ICES 791

2749— ASPARAGUS ICE-CREAM

Parboil six oz. of asparagus-tops or sprew for two minutes.
Thoroughly drain them ; quickly pound them, together with a few
tablespoonfuls of milk, and set this asparagus paste to infuse in the
boiled milk.

2750— FILBERT ICE-CREAM

Slightly torrify three and half oz. of filberts ; finely pound them,
together with a few tablespoonfuls of milk, and set the resulting
paste to infuse for twenty minutes in the boiled milk.

2751— COFFEE ICE-CREAM

Add two oz. of freshly-grilled and crushed coffee seeds to the
boiled milk, and let them infuse for twenty minutes.

Or, with an equivalent amount of ground coffee and half a pint
of water, prepare a very strong infusion and add it to one and a half
pints of boiled milk.

2752— CHOCOLATE ICE-CREAM

Dissolve eight oz. of grated chocolate in half pint of water, and
add thereto one quart of boiled milk, in which a large stick of
vanilla has previously been infused. For this preparation, eight oz.
of sugar and seven egg-yolks will be found sufficient, if the
chocolate used be sweet.

2753— WALNUT ICE-CREAM

Finely pound three and a half oz. of well-peeled walnuts with a
few tablespoonfuls of water, and set them to infuse for twenty
minutes in boiling milk. '

2754— PISTACHIO ICE-CREAM

Pound two oz. of sweet almonds, and two and a half oz. of
freshly-peeled pistachios; moistening them with a few drops of
milk. Set the paste to infuse for twenty minutes in the boiled
milk.

2755— PRALINED ICE-CREAM

Pound and rub through a sieve four oz. of almond pralin, and
add thereto one quart of previously-prepared vanilla-flavoured
custard.

27S<5— TEA ICE-CREAM

Add one pint of very strong tea to one and a half pints of
boiled milk, and make the preparation in the usual way.

2757— VANILLA ICE-CREAM

When the milk has boiled, infuse in it one large stick of vanilla
for twenty minutes.

N.B. — If these various preparations be required more creamy, the
milk may be wholly or partly replaced by fresh cream. Also

792 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

when the preparation is congealed, it may be combined with one'
sixth pint of whipped cream per quart.

2758— PREPARATIONS POR FRUIT ICES

The base of these preparations is a syrup of sugar at 32°
(saccharom.), to which a pur^e of fruit, an essence, or a h"queur is
added, which will give the ice its character. All these preparations
require lemon juice, the quantity of which varies according to the
acidity of the fruit used, but which, even in the case of the tartest
fruits, should not measure less than the amount that maybe extracted
from a whole lemon per quart of the preparation.

Orange juice may also be used, more especially for red-fruit
ices ; while the juices of the orange and the lemons combined
throw the flavour of the fruit under- treatment into remarkable
relief.

In the season the juices are extracted from fresh fruit, pressed
and rubbed through tammy. When the season is over the
preserved juice of fruit is used.

All red-fruit ices are improved, once they are set, by an
addition of half pint of raw, fresh cream per quart of the
preparation.

2759— THE MAKING OF FRUIT ICE PREPARATIONS

These preparations are made in two ways as follows : —

(i) Rub the fruit through a fine sieve, after having pounded it
if its nature admit of it. Dilute the pur6e with an equal quantity of
cold sugar syrup at 32° (saccharom.), and add lemon juice in a
quantity subject to the acidity of the treated fruit.

This mixture of ingredients should always be cold, and should
be tested with the hydrometer. If the instrument marks more than
the proper degree, dilute the preparation with a little water ; if it
mark less, add syrup until the required degree is reached.

(2) Pound the fruit with an average quantity of ten oz. of sugar
per lb. ; but remember that this proportion may be modified either
way, subject to the sweetness of the fruit used.

Rub the whole through a sieve ; and then, to obtain the proper
degree of strength, add the necessary quantity of filtered water.

3760— LIQUEUR- ICE PREPARATIONS

These preparations are made by adding to the syrup or the
cream which forms ,the base of the^ ice a given quantity of the
selected liqueur, the latter being generally added when the
preparation is cold.

The proportion of one-fifth pint of liqueur per quart of syrup may
be taken as an average. Subject to the requirements this liqueur

ICES 793

flavour may be intensified * with strong tea for rum ices ; with
orange-rind for Curagao-flavoured ices, with fresh, crushed cherry-
stones for Kirsch ices, etc.

These preparations should _ always contain some lemon-juice,
and their strength should reach the average degree indicated for
fruit ices.

Various Fruit- Ice Preparations

2761— APRICOT ICE

Take one pint of fresh apricot puree, one pint of syrup, and the
juice of two lemons. The strength of the preparation should
measure 18° or 19° (saccharometer).

2762— PINE = APPLE ICE

Set to macerate for two hours one pint of grated or pounded
skinned pine-apple in one pint of syrup. Rub the whole through a
sieve, add the juice of one lemon and a few drops of Kirsch, and
test the preparation, which should measure from 18° to 20°.

2763— BANANA ICE

Set one pint of pounded banana pulp to macerate for two hours
in one pint of Maraschino-flavoured syrup. Add the juice of three
lemons, and rub through a sieve. This preparation should measure
from 20'' to 21°.

2764— CHERRY ICE

Crush one pint of stoned cherries, and pound their stones. Set the
whole to macerate for one hour in one pint of syrup, flavoured with
Kirsch. Rub through a sieve and add the juice of a half-lemon.
The preparation should measure 3i°.

2765— LEMON ICE

Set the zests of three lemon peels to infuse for three hours in
one pint of cold syrup. Add the juice of four lemons and of two
oranges, and strain the whole. The preparation should measure
22°.

2766— STRAWBERRY ICE

Mix one pint of strawberry puree with one pint of syrup, and
add thereto the juice of two oranges and of two lemons. Or pound
two lbs. of strawberries with one lb. of powdered sugar ; add the
juice of oranges and lemons as above ; rub the whole through a
sieve, and add the necessary amount of filtered water to bring the
preparation to 16° or 18°.

2767— RASPBERRY ICE

Proceed as for No. 2766, and use the same quantities.

794 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

2768— RED-CURRANT ICE

Mix one pint of red-currant juice witli one pint of syrup. In
view of the natural acidity of the fruit, lemon-juice may be
dispensed with. The preparation should measure 20°.

2769— TANGERINE ICE

Throw the zests of the rinds of four tangerines into one and one-
half pints of boiling syrup. Let the whole cool ; rub it through a
sieve, and finish it with the juice of six tangerines, two oranges
and one lemon. The preparation should measure 21°.

2770— MELON ICE

Mix one pint of very ripe melon pulp with one pint of syrup,
the juice of two oranges and one lemon, and one tablespoonful of
orange-flower water. Rub the whole through a sieve. The mixture
should measure 22°.

2771— ORANGE ICE

Throw the zests of the rinds of four oranges into one quart of
boiling syrup. Let the whole cool ; add the juice of four oranges
and one lemon, and rub it through a sieve. It should measure
21°.

2772— PEACH ICE

Proceed as for No. 2761, using wall peaches if possible.

2773— PEAR ICE

Peel, core, and pound some fine William pears, with one lb. of
powdered sugar per two-thirds lb. of the fruit ; and add thereto the
juice of two lemons per lb. of pears. Rub the whole through a
sieve, and add enough filtered water to bring it to 22°.

2774— PLUM ICE

Proceed as for No. 2761, bringing the preparation to 20°.

2775— GRAPE ICE

Add to one and one-half pints of the juice of sweet, pressed grapes,
the juice of three lemons and the necessary quantity of powdered
sugar to bring the preparation to 20°. Rub the whole through a
sieve.

2776— VIOLET ICE

Put half a lb. of cleaned violet petals into one and one-half pints
of boiling syrup. Let them infuse for ten minutes ; strain the whole
through a sieve ; let it cool, and finish it with the juice of three
lemons. The preparation should measure from 20° to 21".

ICES 795

Various Ices.

2777— GLACE ALHAMBRA

Take a Madeleine-mould ; clothe its bottom and sides with
vanilla ice-cream and fill it with Chantilly cream, combined with
fresh strawberries, macerated for two hours in Kiimmel, which
should afterwards be added to the Chantilly cream.

2778— QLACE CARMEN

Take a fluted mould. Garnish it with vertical and alternate
layers of raspberry ice, coffee ice, and vanilla ice-cream.

2779— QLACE COMTESSE MARIE

Take a special square mould, even or ornamented on the top.
Clothe it with strawberry ice ; fill it with vanilla ice-cream ; and,
after turning it out, decorate it, by means of a piping-bag (fitted
with a grooved pipe), with vanilla ice-cream.

2780— QLACE COUCHER DE SOLEIL

Select one pound of fine very ripe strawberries, and put them
in a silver timbale. Sprinkle them with ten ounces of powdered
sugar and one liqueur-glass full of Grand-Marnier liqueur ;
cover the timbale and keep it on ice for half an hour.

Then rub the strawberries through a sieve ; and, with their
puree, make a preparation after the directions given under Fruit
Ices. Freeze this preparation in the freezer, and, when it is set,
combine with it one pint of Chantilly cream. Now cover the
freezer ; surround it afresh with ice if necessary, and keep it thus
for thirty-five to forty minutes. This done, dish the ice prepara-
tion with care in pyramid form in crystal bowls.

N.B. — This ice gets its name from its colour, which should be
that of the western sky during a fine sunset.

2781— QLACE DAME-JEANNE

Take a Madeleine-mould ; clothe it with vanilla ice-cream, and
fill it with Chantilly cream, combined with pralined orange
flowers.

2782— QLACE DORA

Take a Madeleine-mould ; clothe it with vanilla ice-cream, and
fill it with Kirsch-flavoured Chantilly cream combined with pine-
apple dice and Bar red-currant jam.

2783— QLACE ETOILE DU BERQER

Take a star-shaped mould, or a Madeleine-mould with a star
on its bottom. Clothe it with raspberry ice, and fill it with
Benedictine flavoured Mousse.

796 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

Turn it out upon a regular disc, consisting of a thick layer of
white spun sugar, lying on a dish. This spun sugar throws the
ice into relief, and emits rays which dart out from between the
points of the star.

2784— GLACE FLEURETTE

Take a square mould. Garnish it with strawberry and pine-
apple ice, laid in very regular, superposed layers. After turning it
out decorate with lemon ice.

2785— GLACE FRANCILLON

Take a square mould ; clothe it with coffee ice, and fill it with
liqueur-brandy ice.

2786— FROMAQE^ GLACE

These ices are made in fluted moulds, and generally with two
differently flavoured and coloured ices, set vertically in the
mould.

2787— GLACE DES GOURMETS

Take a " bombe " mould. ClotJu it with pralined, vanilla-ice
cream. Fill it with alternate layers of chestnut ice flavoured with
rum, and vanilla-flavoured Chantilly cream. When the ice is
turned out, roll it in pralined splintered almonds.

2788— MOULDED ICES

These ices are made in large or small moulds.

The large ices are moulded in tin moulds, fitted with hinged
covers, and ornamented with some design. The small ones, which
are generally served at evening parties, or are used to garnish
larger ices, are made in similar moulds, shaped like flowers, fruit,
birds, leaf-sprays, etc.

Any ice preparation may be used for these ices ; but, as a rule,
the preparation should have something in keeping with the
design ofjhe^mould used.

Small moulded ices may be kept packed until they are served.
They may also be turned out in advance and kept in the
refrigerator.

2789— GLACE DES ILES

Take a Madeleine-mould ; clothe it with vanilla ice-cream, and
fill it with pine-apple ice.

2790— MADELEINE GLACEE

Take a Madeleine-mould. Fill it with vanilla ice-cream,
combined with half its bulk of Chantilly cream and candied fruit,
macerated in Kirsch.

ICES 797

2791— MANDARINES QLAC^ES

Cut the tangerines on top, with a round, even cutter, in such-
wise as to remove a roundel of their peel with the stalk attached,
and two leaves adhering thereto.

With the juice of the tangerines prepare some tangerine ice,
after the directions given under Fruit-ice Preparations. Fill the
tangerines with this ice ; cover them with the roundels removed at
the start ; and, with a brush, sprinkle the rinds of the fruit with
water, and place them in a refrigerator.

As soon as the tangerines are coated with frost, serve them on
a napkin.

2792— MANDARINES QLACEES AUX PERLES DES ALPES

Empty the tangerines as above, and garnish them inside with
tangerine mousse, with which Chartreuse bon-bons have been
mixed. Cover them, and frost them as directed above.

2793— QLACE MARIE-THI^R^SE

Take a Madeleine-mould ; clothe it with chocolate ice, and fill
it with vanilla-flavoured Chantilly cream.

After turning out, decorate it with pine-apple ice.

2794— MERINGUES GLAC6ES

Garnish some meringue shells with some kind of spoon-
moulded ice, and set them on a napkin.

Or, garnish the shells more sparingly and join them together
in twos.

2795— QLACE PLOMBI6RE

Take a parfait mould. Garnish it with vanilla-ice cream,
combined with candied fruit, macerated in Kirsch ; spreading the
preparation in alternate layers with apricot jam.

COUPES.

We are now concerned with bowls garnished, either with
differently-flavoured ices, or with ices combined with Chantilly
cream or candied fruit. The bowls used for this purpose should
be of crystal.

2796— COUPES D'ANTIQNY

Three-parts fill the bowls with Alpine-strawberry ice, or, failing
this, four-seasons strawberry ice, combined with very light and
strongly-flavoured raw cream. The two most perfect examples of /
this cream are the " Fleurette Normande," and that which in they
South of France is called "Creme Ni50i.se," and which comes fromft
Alpine pastures. ' «

798 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

Upon the ice of each bowl set a half-peach, poached in vanilla-
flavoured syrup ; and veil the whole thinly with spun sugar.

2797— COUPES CLO-CLO

Garnish the bottom of the bowls with vanilla-ice cream,
combined with fragments of candied chestnuts, macerated in
Maraschino. Set a candied chestnut in the middle of the ice, and
surround it by means of a piping-bag with a border of Chantilly
cream, containing strawberry pur^e.

2798— COUPES DAJVIE BLANCHE

Three-parts garnish the bowls with almond-milk ice. Upon
the ice in each bowl set an overturned half-peach, poached in
vanilla-flavoured syrup, the hollow of which should be filled with
Bar red-currant jam. Surround the peaches with a thread of
lemon ice, laid by means of a piping-bag.

2799— COUPES DENISE

Garnish the bowls with Moka ice, and sprinkle the latter
with sweets containing liqueur (preferably rum). Cover with
Chantilly cream laid on by means of the spoon.

2800— COUPES EDNA MAY

Garnish the bottom of the bowls with vanilla ice-cream, and
upon the latter set some very cold stewed cherries. Cover the
latter with a cone of Chantilly cream, tinted pink by means of a
fresh raspberry pur^e.

2801— COUPES ELIZABETH

These coupes do not contain ice. They are garnished with
very cold stewed choice bigaroon cherries, poached in a Kirsch-
and cherry-brandy-flavoured syrup. The fruit is covered with
Chantilly cream which is laid on by means of a spoon, and
sprinkled with powdered spices in which cinnamon should
predominate.

2802— COUPES EMMA CALVE

Garnish the bottom of the bowls with pralined vanilla ice-
cream. Upon the latter set some Kirsch-flavoured stewed cherries,
and cover the latter with raspberry pur^e.

2803— COUPES EUGENIE

Garnish the bowls with vanilla ice-cream, combined with
broken candied chestnuts. Cover the ice with Chantilly cream
and upon the latter sprinkle some crystallised violets.

ICES 799

2804— COUPES A LA FAVORITE

Garnish the bowls vertically, half with Kirsch- Maraschino-
flavoured ice, and half with vanilla ice-cream. Border them with a
thread of pine-apple ice, and in the middle set some Chantilly
cream combined with strawberry pur6e.

280s— COUPES QERMAINE

Garnish the bottom of the bowls with vanilla ice, and distribute
over it half-sugared cherries, macerated in Kirsch. Cover the
cherries with a dry pur6e of chestnuts, squeezed out to resemble
vermicelli, and border the bowls with Chantilly cream.

2806— COUPES QRESSAC

Garnish the bottom of the bowls with vanilla ice-cream, and
upon the latter in each bowl set three small macaroons, saturated
with Kirsch. Upon the macaroons set an overturned poached
half-peach, the hollow of which should be garnished with Bar red-
currant jam. Surround the peaches with a border of Chantilly
cream.

2807— COUPES JACQUES

Garnish the bowls vertically, half with lemon and half with
strawberry ice. Between the two ices, on top of the bowl, set a
tablespoonful of a macedoine of fresh fruit, macerated in Kirsch.

2808— COUPES A LA MALMAISON

Garnish the bowls with vanilla ice-cream, combined with peeled
Muscadel grapes. Veil with spun sugar.

2809— COUPES A LA MEXICAINE

Garnish the bowls with tangerine ice, combined with pine-apple
cut into very small dice.

3810— COUPES MIREILLE

Garnish the bowls, half with vanilla ice-cream, and half with
red-currant ice with cream. In the middle of each bowl set a
nectarine poached in vanilla-flavoured syrup, the stone of which
should be replaced by Bar white-currant jam.

Decorate with Chantilly cream, and cover with a veil of spun
sugar.

28U— COUPES PETIT DUC

Garnish the bowls with vanilla ice-cream. Set in each a
poached half-peach garnished with Bar red-currant jam. Surround
the peaches with a thread of lemon ice.

2812— COUPES REVE DE b6b6

Garnish the bowls, half with pine-apple ice and half with rasp-
berry ice.

8oo GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

Between the two ices set a line of small strawberries, macerated
in orange juice. Border the bowls with Chantilly cream, and
sprinkle the latter with crystallised violets.

2813— COUPES MADAJVIE SANS-Q6NE

Garnish the bottom and sides of the bowls with a layer of
vanilla ice-cream. Fill them with Bar red-currant jam, and cover
the latter, by means of a spoon, with Chantilly cream.

2814— COUPES TUTTI-FRUTTI

Sprinkle the bottom of the bowls with various fresh fruits
cut into dice ; garnish the bowls with strawberry, pine-apple and
lemon ices, spread alternately with layers of the same fruits.

2815— COUPES VENUS

Half-fill the bowls with vanilla ice-cream.

In the middle of each bowl set a small peach, poached in
vanilla-flavoured syrup, with a very red, small cherry upon it.
Border the peaches with a thread of Chantilly cream.

2816— LIGHT ICES

These ices differ from those dealt with above, in that they are
moulded and frozen directly, without a sojourn in the freezer.

To this class belong the ices most commonly served and the
best ; and, since their preparation requires no special utensils, they
may be served everywhere : such are the " Iced Biscuits," the
" Bombes," the " Mousses," the " Parfaits," the " Puddings," and the
" Iced Souffles."

These different kinds of ices greatly resemble one another,
and their names, which are puzzling at times, are only a matter of
fancy.

2817— VARIOUS PREPARATIONS

The old iced-biscuit preparation consisted of an English
custard, prepared from one lb. of sugar, twelve egg-yolks, and one
pint of milk.

When the custard was cooked, it used to be strained into a
basin, left to cool (being fanned the while), and then placed upon
ice, and finished with the whisk. Originally this cream was moulded
at this stage ; but now it is customary to add one quart of whipped
cream to it ; which operation renders the recipe more like that of
a Bombe, which, in its turn, resembles that of the preparation for
Mousses.

ICES 8oi

Iced Biscuits.

2818— PREPARATION FOR ICED BISCUITS

Whisk in a copper basin, in a bain-marie, twelve egg-yolks and
one lb. of powdered sugar, until the paste gets very firm and reaches
the ribbon-stage.

Take the basin off the fire, and whisk until the whole is quite
cold. Then, add eight oz. of Italian meringue and one pint of
whisked cream..

2819— THE MOULDING OF ICED BISCUITS

These biscuits are moulded in rectangular brick-shaped cases,
fitted with lids, top and bottom.

Generally, the preparation moulded in the covers is of a
different flavour and colour from the one filling the middle of the
mould.

For example, one of the covers may be garnished with straw-
berry, and the other with violet preparation, while the central portion
may hold a vanilla-flavoured preparation. After having frozen
them for three hours, in a pail filled with freezing ice, and turned
them out, these bricks are cut up vertically into rectangles, on
the cut sides of which the differently coloured layers are distinctly
marked. Place these rectangles in special paper cases ; decorate
them on top, if the directions admit of it, and place them in a
refrigerator until about to serve.

Nearly all Bombe preparations may become the base of biscuits,
which are then named after them ; e.g. : from Bombe Odessa,
Odessa Iced Biscuits may be prepared.

Various, Iced Biscuits.

2820— ICED BISCUIT BENEDICTINE

Mould the base with strawberry ice, the middle with Benedictine
ice, and the top with violet ice. Freeze and cut up as directed.

2821— ICED BISCUIT MARQUISE

Mould with Kirsch and strawberry ices, alternated twice.

2822— ICED BISCUIT MONT-BLANC

Mould the base with a rum-flavoured preparation, the middle
with a chestnut preparation, and the top with a vanilla-flavoured
preparation.

2823— ICED BISCUIT NAPOLITAINE

Mould the base with a vanilla-flavoured preparation, the middle
with strawberry ice, and the top with a preparation of pralined
biscuit.

8o2 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

2824— ICED BISCUIT PRINCESSE

Mould and leave to set a hiscuit-^ralined preparation. After
having cut up the moulding, surround it with splintered and
pralined almonds.

Decorate the pieces with vanilla ice-cream and tangerine ice.

2825— ICED BISCUIT ^SIGURD

Mould the base with strawberry and the top with pistachio
biscuit preparation. When the biscuit is frozen, cut it into
rectangular slices, and sandwich] each slice between two sugar
wafers.

2826— BOMBES (Generic Recipe)

Originally, Bombes were made from an ordinary ice preparation,
in spherical moulds ; hence their name, which is once more justified
by their arrangement, consisting as it used to do of superposed
and concentric layers, the outermost of which was very thin. Now-
adays, Bombes are more often moulded in the shape of shells, but
the preparation from which they are made is much more delicate
than it was formerly.

2827— PREPARATION FOR BOMBES

Gradually mix thirty-two egg-yolks with one quart of syrup at
28°. Put the whole on a very moderate fire, whisking it as for
a G^noise, and, when the preparation is firm enough and taken off
the fire, continue whisking it over ice until it is quite cold. Then
add the selected flavour, and one and one-third quarts of stiffly-
whipped cream.

2828— THE MOULDING OF BOMBES

First clothe the bottom and sides of a mould with the ice
preparation denoted by the name of the Bombe. This coat, which
should vary in thickness in accordance with the size of the mould,
should be somewhat thin, and made from an ordinary ice prepara-
tion, which is suited better than any other kind to this class
of dish.

The middle is then filled with a Bombe preparation, flavoured
as directed, or with a Mousse preparation. The whole is then
covered with a round piece of white paper, and the mould is
hermetically sealed with its cover, set to freeze, and left for two or
three hours in the ice.

When about to serve, take the mould out of the ice ; wash
it with cold water ; dip it quickly in tepid water ; dry it with
a towel, and overturn the mould on a napkin or on a block of
ice.

ICES 803

Various Bombes.

2839— BOMBE ABOUKIR

Having clothed the mould with pistachio ice, fill it with a
pralined Bombe-preparation, combined with chopped pistachios.

2830— BOMBE AFRICAINE

Clothe the mould with chocolate ice, and fill it with an apricot
Bombe-preparation.

2831— BOMBE ABRICOTINE
Clothe the mould with apricot ice, and fill it with a Kirsch-
flavoured Bombe-preparation, laid in alternate layers with stewed
apricots.

2832— BOMBE AIDA
Clothe the mould with strawberry ice, and fill it with a Kirsch-
flavoured Bombe-preparation.

2833— BOMBE ALMl^RIA

Clothe the mould with Anisette ice, and fill it with a pome-
granate Bombe-preparation.

2834— BOMBE ALHAMBRA

Clothe the mould with vanilla ice-cream, and garnish it with a
strawberry Bombe-preparation. After turning it out surround the
Bombe with a crown of fine strawberries macerated in Kirsch.

3835— BOMBE AMERICAINE

Clothe the mould with strawberry ice, and fill it with a tangerine
Bombe-preparation. After turning out decorate the Bombe with
pistachio ice.

2836— BOMBE ANDALOUSE
Clothe the mould with apricot ice, and fill it with a vanilla
Bombe-preparation.

2837— BOMBE BATAVIA
Clothe the mould with a pine-apple ice and fill it up with a straw-
berry Bombe-preparation, combined with candied ginger cut into
dice.

2838— BOMBE BOURDALOUE
Clothe the mould with vanilla ice-cream, and fill it up with an
Anisette Bombe-preparation.

After turning out decorate the Bombe with crystallised violets.

2839— BOMBE BR6SILIENNE

Clothe the mould with pine-apple ice, and fill it with a vanilla
and rum Bombe-preparation combined with pine-apple dice.

3 F 2

8o4 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

2840— BOMBE CAMARQO

Clothe the mould with coffee ice, and fill it with a vanilla Bombe-
preparation.

2841— BOMBE CARDINAL

Clothe the mould with a red-currant and raspberry ice, and fill it
with a pralined vanilla Bombe-preparation.

2842 -BOMBE CEYLAN

Clothe the the mould with coffee ice, and fill it with a rum
Bombe-preparation.

2843— BOMBE CHATEAUBRIAND

Clothe the mould with apricot ice, and fill it with a vanilla
Bombe-preparation.

2844— BOMBE CLARENCE

Clothe the mould with banana ice, and fill it with a violet
Bombe-preparation.

3845— BOMBE COLOMBIA

Clotlie the mould with Kirsch ice, and fill it with a pear Bombe-
preparation. After turning out decorate the Bombe with half-
sugared cherries.

2846— BOMBE COPPl^LIA

Clothe the mould with coffee ice, and fill it with a pralined
Bombe-preparation.

2847— BOMBE CZARINE

Clothe the mould with vanilla ice, and fill it with a Kiimmel
Bombe-preparation. After turning out decorate it with crystallised
violets.

2848— BOMBE DAME= BLANCHE

Clothe the mould with vanilla ice, and fill it with an almond milk
Bombe-preparation.

2849— BOMBE DANICHEFF

Clothe the mould with coffee ice, and fill it with a Kirsch Bombe-
preparation.

2850— BOMBE DIABLE ROSE

Clothe the mould with strawberry ice, and fill it with a Kirsch
Bombe-preparation, combined with half-sugared cherries.

2851— BOMBE DIPLOMATE

Clothe the mould with vanilla ice-cream, and fill it with a
Maraschino Bombe-preparation, combined with candied fruit.

ICES 805

3852— BOMBE DUCHESSE

Clothe the mould with banana-ice, and fill it with a pear
Bombe-preparation flavoured with Kirsch.

2853— BOMBE FANCHON

Clothe the mould with pralined ice, and fill it with a Kirsch
Bombe-preparation, containing some coffee-drops.

2854— BOMBE FfiDORA

Clothe the mould with orange ice, and fill it with a pralined
Bombe-preparation .

2855— BOMBE FLORENTINE
Clothe the mould with raspberry ice, and fill it with a pralined
Bombe-preparation.

2856— BOMBE FORMOSA
Clothe the mould with vanilla ice-cream, and fill it with a
strawberry Bombe-preparation, combined with big strawberries.

2857— BOMBE FRANCILLON

Clothe the mould with coffee ice, and fill it with a Bombe-
preparation flavoured with liqueur-brandy.

2858— BOMBE FROU-FROU

Clothe the mould with vanilla ice-cream, and fill it with a rum
Bombe-preparation, combined with candied fruit.

2859— BOMBE GRANDE DUCHESSE

Clothe the mould with pear ice, and fill it with a Chartreuse
Bombe-preparation.

2860— BOMBE QISMONDA

Clothe the mould with pralined ice, and fill it with an Anisette
Bombe-preparation, combined with Bar white-currant jam.

2861— BOMBE HAVANAISE

Clothe the mould with coffee ice, and fill it with a vanilla and
rum Bombe-preparation.

2862— BOMBE HILDA

Clothe the mould with filbert ice, and fill it with a Chartreuse
Bombe-preparation, combined with filbert pralin.

2863— BOMBE HOLLANDAISE

Clothe the mould with vanilla ice-cream, and fill it with a
Cura§ao Bombe-preparation.

2864— BOMBE JAFFA

Clothe the mould with pralined ice, and fill it with an orange
Bombe-preparation.

8o6 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

3865— BOMBE JAPONAISE

Clothe the mould with peach ice, and fill it with a tea mousse-
preparation.

2866— BOMBE JEANNE D'ARC

Clotlie the mould with vanilla ice-cream, and fill it with a
chocolate pralined Bombe-preparation.

3867— BOMBE JOSJ^PHINE

Clothe the mould with coffee ice, and fill it with a pistachio
Bombe-preparation.

2868— BOMBE MADELEINE

Clothe the mould with almond ice, and fill it with a vanilla and
Kirsch Bombe-preparation, combined with candied fruit.

3869— BOMBE MALTAISE

Clothe the mould with blood-orange ice, and fill it with
tangerine-flavoured Chantilly cream.

3870— BOMBE A LA MARECHALE

Clothe the mould with strawberry ice, and fill it with alternate
layers of pistachio, orange and vanilla Bombe-preparation.

3871— BOMBE MARQOT

Clothe the mould with almond ice, and fill it with pistachio
Bombe-preparation. After turning out, decorate with vanilla ice-
cream.

3873— BOMBE MARIE LOUISE

Clothe the mould with raspberry ice, and fill it with a vanilla
Bombe-preparation.

3873— BOMBE MARQUISE

Clothe the mould with apricot ice, and fill it with a Champagne
Bombe-preparation.

3874— BOMBE MASCOTTE

Clothe the mould with peach-ice, and fill it with a Kirsch
Bombe-preparation.

3875— BOMBE MATHILDE

Clothe the mould with coffee ice, and fill it with an apricot
Bombe-preparation.

2876— BOMBE M^DICIS

Clothe the mould with brandy ice, and fill it with a raspberry
Bombe-preparation.

ICES 807

2877— BOMBE MERCEDES

Clothe the mould with apricot ice, and fill it with a Chartreuse
Bombe-preparation.

2878— BOMBE MIQNON
Clothe the mould with apricot ice, and fill it with nut Bombe-
preparation.

2879— BOMBE MISS HELYETT
Clothe the mould with raspberry ice, and fill it with a vanilla
Bombe-preparation.

2880— BOMBE MOGADOR

Clothe the mould with coffee ice, and fill it with a Kirsch
Bombe-preparation.

2881— BOMBE MOLD AVE

Clothe the mould with pine-apple ice, and fill it with a Curasao
Bombe-preparation.

2882— BOMBE MONTMORENCY
Clothe the mould with Kirsch ice, and fill it with a cherry
Bombe-preparation. After turning out, surround it with half-
candied cherries.

2883— BOMBE MOSCOVITE
Clothe the mould with Kiimmel ice, and fill it with a bitter-
almond Bombe-preparation, combined with candied fruit.

2884— BOMBE MOUSSELINE

Clothe the mould with strawberry ice, and fill it with Chantilly
cream, combined with strawberry purde.

2885— BOMBE NABAB

Clothe the mould with pralined ice, and fill it with a liqueur-
brandy Bombe-preparation, containing candied fruit.

2886— BOMBE NfiLUSKO

Clothe the mould with filbert pralined ice, and fill it with a
chocolate Bombe-preparation.

2887— BOMBE NERO

Take a dome-mould and clothe it with vanilla ice-cream with
caramel ; fill it with vanilla Mousse, combined with small,
imitation truffles, the size of small nuts, made from chocolate.

Turn out the Bombe on a thin cushion of Punch Biscuit, of the
same diameter as the Bombe. Cover the whole with a thin layer
of Italian meringue ; and, on top, set a small receptacle made of
Italian meringue dried in an almost cold oven. Decorate the sides
by means of a piping-bag with meringue, and set the whole in the
oven to glaze quickly.

8o8 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

On taking the Bombe out of the oven, pour some hot rum into
the bowl, and set a light to it when serving.

2888— BOMBE SAINT LAUD

Clothe the mould with raspberry ice, and fill it with alternate
layers of melon Bombe-preparation and Chantilly cream.

2889— BOMBE NESSELRODE

Clothe the mould with vanilla ice-cream, and fill it with Chantilly
cream, combined with chestnut puree.

2890— BOMBE ODETTE

Clothe -the mould with vanilla ice-cream, and fill it with a
pralined Bombe-preparation.

2891— BOMBE ODESSA

Clothe the mould with apricot ice, and fill it with a strawberry
Bombe-preparation.

2892— BOMBE ORIENTALE

Clothe the mould with ginger ice, and fill it with a pistachio
Bombe-preparation.

2893— BOMBE PATRICIENNE

Clothe the mould with vanilla ice-cream, and fill it with a pralin
and chocolate Bombe-preparation.

2894 -BOMBE PETIT DUC

Clothe the mould with strawberry ice, and fill it with a hazel-
nut Bombe-preparation, combined with Bar red-currant jam.

2895— BOMBE POMPADOUR

Clothe the mould with asparagus ice, and fill it with a pome-
granate Bombe-preparation.

2896— BOMBE PROPHETE

Clothe the mould with strawberry ice, and fill it with pine-apple
preparation.

2897— BOMBE RICHELIEU

Clothe the mould with rum ice ; fill it with a coffee Bombe-pre-
paration, and distribute coffee drops upon it after turning.

2898— BOMBE ROSETTE

Clothe the mould with vanilla ice-cream, and fill it up with red-
currant-flavoured Chantilly cream, combined with red-currants.

2899— BOMBE A LA ROYALE

Clothe the mould with Kirsch ice, and fill it with a chocolate
pralined Bombe-preparation.

ICES 809

2900— BOMBE SANTIAGO

Clothe the mould with Brandy ice, and fill it with a pistachio
Bombe-preparation.

2901— BOMBE SI&LIKA
Clothe the mould with pralined ice, and fill it with a Curasao
Bombe-preparation.

2902— BOMBE SKOBELEFF
Clothe the mould with Vodka ice, and fill it with KUmmel-
flavoured Chantilly cream.

2903— BOMBE STROQOFF
Clothe the mould with peach ice, and fill it with a Champagne
Bombe-preparation.

2904— BOMBE SUCC6S
Clothe the mould with apricot ice, and fill it with Kirsch-flavoured
Chantilly cream, combined with candied apricots cut into dice.

2905— BOMBE SULTANE

Clothe the mould with chocolate ice, and fill it with 2. pralined
Bombe-preparation.

2906— BOMBE SUZANNE

Clothe the mould with pink rum ice, and fill it with vanilla
Bombe-preparation, combined with Bar red-currant jam.

2907— BOMBE TORTONI

Clothe the mould with pralined ice, and fill it with coffee Bombe-
preparation, containing coffee seeds,

2908— BOMBE TOSCA
Clothe the mould with apricot ice, and fill it with a Maraschino
and fruit Bombe-preparation. After turning out, decorate the
Bombe with lemon ice.

2909— BOMBE TROCADERO
Clothe the mould with orange ice, combined with candied orange-
rind, cut into small dice ; and fill with alternate layers of Chantilly
cream and roundels of filbert Ginoise, cut in graduated sizes, and
saturated with Curasao syrup. Sprinkle some orange-^«J^ dice on
each roundel of Gdnoise.

2910— BOMBE TUTTI-FRUTTI
Clothe the mould with strawberry ice, and fill it with a lemon
Bombe-preparation, combined with various candieti fruits, cut into
dice.

291 1— BOMBE A LA VALENCAY
Clothe the mould with pralined ice, and fill it with Chantilly
cream, combined with ra-spberries.

8io GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

2912— BOMBE VENITIENNE

Clothe the mould half with vanilla and half with strawberry ice
and fill it with a Maraschino and Kirsch Bombe-preparation.

3913— BOMBE VICTORIA

Clothe the mould with strawberry ice, and fill it with Plombiere
ice.

2914— BOMBE ZAMORA

Clothe the mould with coffee ice, and fill it with a Curagao
Bombe-preparation.

Iced Mousses.

The composition for mousses is prepared either from English
cream or from syrup. The last method is specially suited to fruit
wiousses.

2915— PREPARATION FOR ICED FRUIT MOUSSES

This is a cold syrup at 35°, to which is added an equal quantity
of a pur^e of the fruit under treatment, and twice that amount of
very stiff Chantilly cream.

3916— PREPARATION OF ICED MOUSSE WITH CREAM

Make an English cream from one lb. of powdered sugar, sixteen
egg-yolks, and one pint of milk, and leave it to cool.

When it is quite cold, add to it one pint of raw cream,
two-thirds oz. of powdered tragacanth gum, and the flavour which
is to characterise the preparation.

If the mousse be a fruit one, add to it one pint of a purde of
fresh fruit.

Whisk over ice, until the preparation gets very frothy ; put it into
moulds, lined with white paper ; thoroughly close them, and keep
them in a refrigerator for two or three hours, subject to their size.

3917— VARIOUS ICED MOUSSES

After the same procedure, mousses may be prepared with
Anisette, Coffee, Chocolate, Kirsch, Maraschino, Rum, Tea, etc. ;
Apricots, Strawberries, Oranges and Tangerines, fresh Walnuts,
Peaches, Vanilla, Violets, etc.

3918— PARF AIT (Generic Recipe)

Mix thirty egg-yolks with one quart of cold syrup at 28°. Put
the mixture on a slow fire, and cook it as for an English cream ;
strain it, and whisk it on ice until it is quite cold.

Add three pints of very stiff, whisked cream and one-fifth pint

ICES 8ii

of brandy or rum, in order to finish it ; mould the preparation in
Parfait moulds, and pack them in a freezer for from two to three
hours.

N.B. — The term " Parfait," which, formerly, was applied only to
" Parfait au Cafd," has become the common name for un-clothed
ices, made from Bombe-preparations having but one flavour. And
this is fairly logical, seeing that Bombe-preparations, but for a
few insignificant distinctions, are exactly like Parfait-preparation.

It is therefore just as reasonable to make vanilla, chocolate, and
pralined Parfaits, etc., as to make them with coffee.

2919— ICED PUDDINGS

Preparations of this class follow no hard and fast rules, and, in
reality, they are not ices fat all. They are nothing else than iced
entremets, the bases of which generally consist of thick English
custard, the same as that which serves in the preparation of
Bavarois.

The few following recipes, however, are exceptions to this
rule.

2920— PUDDING DE CASTRIES

Clothe a Bombe mould with a thin layer of vanilla ice-cream,
and fill it with two Bombe-preparations, spread in somewhat thick,
alternate layers. One of the preparations should be of vanilla, on
each thickness of which a layer of lady's-finger biscuits, cut into
dice and sprinkled with Anisette, should be spread ; and the
other preparation should be of tangerine.

Between the layers, sprinkle a few pinches of grated chocolate,
and fill up the mould with a thickness of vanilla ice-cream. ^

Thoroughly close the utensil ; pack it for about two or three
hours. Turn it out on a folded napkin ; sprinkle thereon a few
red, crushed pralins ; and serve an iced tangerine syrup separately.

2921— JWARIE=ROSE PUDDING

Line a Charlotte mould with rolled gaufrettes; placing them
snugly one against the other. By means of a piping-bag, fill the
gaufrettes with very stiff strawberry ice, and then fill the mould
with a vanilla pralined Bombe-preparation. Keep the mould in the
refrigerator for three hours, and turn out the pudding on a napkin.
Decorate it on top with pink and white Chantilly cream. Serve a
chocolate ice-cream separately.

2922— PUDDING MIRAMAR

Garnish an iced, Madeleine-mould with lady's-finger biscuits,
saturated with Chartreuse, and alternate them with thin slices
of fresh pine-apple, saturated in Kirsch, and pipped sections of
tangerine, skinned raw.

812 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

Fill up the mould with a Bombe-preparation of pomegranate
juice, flavoured with Kirsch ; close the mould, keep it in ice for
two hours, and turn out the pudding on a napkin when about to
serve.

Serve an iced, vanilla syrup separately.

2923— PUDDING SEYiVlOUR

Cut a Mousseline Brioche into thin slices, and set these to soak
in raw, sweetened and Kirsch-flavoured cream. Peel and finely
slice some peaches, and poach them in vanilla-flavoured syrup ;
also peel some very ripe William pears.

Prepare a pink Bombe-preparation, flavoured with Kirsch and
Orgeat ; and then fill up the mould with alternate layers of the
slices of Brioche and of fruit, with Bar red-currant jam added ;
and the Bombe-preparation.

Close the mould, keep it in ice for two hours, and turn out the
pudding on a napkin.

2924— ICED SOUFFLES

The preparation differs according as to whether the Soufflh be
prepared with fruit, or with such flavours as Vanilla, Coffee,
Chocolate, etc.

The last named are made with the IctA-Mousse preparation
(No. 2916), which may also serve for the fruit Soufflh ; but, in the
case of the latter, the following preparation is preferable : —

Whisk the whites of ten eggs to a very stiff froth, and add
to this one and one-tenth lbs. of sugar cooked to the small-crack
stage. Transfer the whole to a basin ; flavour according to fancy,
and add one pint of a pur6e of fruit and one pint of very stiffly-
whisked cream.

3925— THE MOULDING OF LARGE AND SMALL
ICED SOUFFLES

Mould the large ones in ordinary Souffle timbales, which
should be lined with bands of white paper, fixed with butter,
and overreaching the edges of the timbales by one and a half
to two inches, that the preparation, in projecting above the
brims of the utensils, may appear like a Souffle when the paper
is removed.

The small Souffle are moulded in cases or in small silver
cassolettes^ which are likewise wrapped in bands of paper, that the
preparation may rise above their brims. As soon as they are
moulded, put the Souffle's in a very cold refrigerator ; and when
about to serve them, carefully remove the bands of paper which,
once the preparation has solidified, have served their purpose ; and

ICES 813

dish the cases or silver cassolettes on a napkin or on a carved
block of ice.

Like the Bombes, and the Iced Biscuits, Iced Souffles may be
indefinitely varied, owing to the multitudinous combinations to
which they lend themselves.

2926- SORBETS (Sherbets)

Sherbets and their derivative preparations consist of very light

and barely-congealed ices, served after the Entrees. They serve in

freshening the stomach ; preparing it to properly receive the

roast.

They are at once appetisers and helps to digestion,

2927— PREPARATION FOR SORBETS

Sherbets are made from any liqueur ice preparation at 15° ; or
they may be prepared as follows : — For one quart of preparation, take
the juice of two lemons and one orange, half-a-pint of port wine, of
Samos wine, of Sauterne, or other good wine ; and add cold
syrup at 22°, until the saccharometer registers 15°.

For liqueur sherbets, allow about one-fifth pint of liqueur per
quart of the preparation ; but remember that this is subject to the
kind of liqueur used. For the quantity just prescribed, use syrup at
18° or 19°, which the subsequent addition of liqueur reduces to the
proper degree. Whatever be the kind of liqueur, the latter should
only be added when the Sherbet is completely frozen ; that is to say,
at the last moment.

Fruit Sorbets are generally prepared from the juices and syrups
of aqueous fruits. Fruit purees are scarcely suited to this mode of
procedure, and they are only resorted to in exceptional cases.

The Freezing of Sherbets. — Pour the preparation into the turbine
or the freezer, which should have been previously packed, and keep
the utensil on the move. Remove portions of the preparation from
the sides of the receptacle as fast as they adhere thereto, and mix
them with the whole, until the latter is completely congealed ; re-
membering not to stir at all during the freezing process. When the
preparation is firm enough, mix with it, gently, the quarter of its
weight of Italian meringue or very stiffly whipped cream ; and finish
by the addition of the liqueur.

The Dishing of Sherbets. — Take some of the Sherbet prepara-
tion in a spoon, and set it in Sherbet or Sherry glasses, shaping it
to a point.

When the Sherbet is prepared with wine, sprinkle the pre-
paration when it is in the glasses with a tablespoonful of the
selected wine.

8 14 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

The consistence of a Sherbet, of what kind soever, should be
such as to allow of its being drunk.

2938— VARIOUS SORBETS

Having pointed out that Sherbets may be prepared from the
juices of every fruit such as Pine-apple, Cherries, Strawberries,
Raspberries, Red-currants, etc., and from every wine and liqueur
such as Port, Samos wine, Marsala, Johannisburg, Rum, Kirsch,
Liqueur-Brandy, etc., and since the procedure is the same in every
case, there is no need to devote a special article to each.

2929— SORBET A LA SICILIENNE

Keep a very green water melon in the refrigerator for three
hours.

One hour before serving, open it on top, as directed under
" Surprise Melon," and withdraw the seeds.

Then, detach the pulp by means of a silver spoon, without
withdrawing it from the fruit ; sprinkle it with Maraschino, and
put the whole back into the refrigerator.

Dish on fragmented ice or on a block of the latter, and serve the
pulp before the diners in Sherbet glasses.

2930— GRANITES

Granites answer the same purpose as Sherbets, while they may
also be introduced into certain culinary preparations.

The bases of these preparations consist of very thin syrups
made from fruit juices, and not overreaching fourteen degrees
(saccharometer).

Granites consist only of iced syrups, and are not combined with
any Italian or other meringue.

As in the case of the Sherbets, but more particularly in regard
to these, the operator should remember not to stir the syrup during
the freezing process, lest it turn ; and^when it is congealed, it
sBiould form a light, granulated mass.

2931— MARQUISES

Marquises are generally made from strawberries or pine-apple,
with Kirsch. The preparation is that of a Sherbet with Kirsch,
registering 17° by the saccharometer. The freezing is done as for
Granites ; but it should be carried a little further.

When about to serve, mix the preparation per pint thereof
with half a pint of very stiff Chantilly cream, combined with a
strawberry or pine-apple puree, subject to the designation of the
Marquise.

ICES 815

2932— PUNCH A LA ROMAINE

Mix sufficient dry white wine, or dry champagne, with one pint
of syrup at 22°, to reduce the latter to 17° ; add the juice of two
oranges and two lemons, a strip of orange and lemon zest, and let
infusion proceed for one hour.

Strain the syrup and bring it to 18°.

Freeze in the freezer, until it is somewhat stiff, and mix it with
the quarter of its volume of Italian meringue (prepared from two
egg-whites and three and a half oz. of sugar).

When about to serve, complete with one-fifth pint of Rum, added
little by little.

Serve the preparation in glasses, after the style of the Sherbets.

N.B. — For all Sherbets and Punches, one quart of the finished
preparation should be allowed for every ten people.

2933— S ROOMS

Spoom is a kind of Sherbet prepared from a syrup at 20°. Add
to it twice as much Italian meringue as was added to the Sherbets.
Do not work it too briskly, that it may remain very light and frothy.

Spooms are made from fruit juices ; but more often from such
wines as Champagne, Samos, Muscat, Zucco, etc.

Serve it in glasses like the Sherbets.

CHAPTER XXI

DRINKS AND REFRESHMENTS.

N.B. — The quantities given below are calculated to be sufficient
for fifteen glassfuls.

2934— BAVAROISE

Work eight oz. of powdered sugar with eight egg-yolks in a
saucepan, until the whole becomes white and reaches the ribbon
stage. Then add consecutively : one-fifth pint of capillary syrup,
one pint of freshly made, boiling hot tea, and the same amount of
boiling milk ; whisking briskly the while, that the drink may be very
frothy. Complete at the last moment with one-third pint of the
liqueur which is to characterise the Bavaroise, i.e. either Kirsch or
Rum.

If the Bavaroise be flavoured with vanilla, orange or lemon, let
the flavour infuse in the milk for fifteen minutes beforehand. If it
be flavoured with chocolate, dissolve six oz. of the latter, and add
the milk to it, flavoured with vanilla.

If it be coffee-flavoured, set three oz. of freshly-torrified and con-
cassed coffee to infuse in the milk or flavour with one pint of freshly-
made coffee.

Bavaroise is served in special glasses, and it must be frothy.

2935— BISCHOFF

Put into a basin one bottleful of Champagne, one Sherry-
glassful of " tilleul " infusion, one orange and one lemon, cut into
thin slices, and enough syrup at 32° to bring the preparation to 18°.
Let maceration proceed in the cool for an hour. This done, strain
the whole ; freeze it like a Granit6, and finish it with four liqueur-
glassfuls of liqueur-brandy.

Serve in bumpers.

2936— ICED COFFEE

Pour one and a half pints of boiling water, gradually, over ten
oz. of freshly-ground coffee, and strain it gently. Put this coffee
into a bowl with 20 oz. of loaf-sugar, and let the latter dissolve

DRINKS AND REFRESHMENTS 817

while the coffee cools. Then add one quart of very cold, boiled
milk, in which half a stick of vanilla should have infused, and one
pint of very fresh cream.

Freeze the whole in a freezer, taking care to keep the prepara-
tion almost liquid, and serve it in very cold cups.

2937— LEMONADE

Dissolve half-lb. of loaf-sugar in one quart of filtered water.
Add the juice and the zests of the rinds of two lemons, and let
infusion proceed in the cool for three hours. Pass the whole
through a fine strainer ; add one syphonful of seltzer water, and
serve with a thin roundel of lemon in each glass.

2938— PINEAPPLE WATER

Finely chop one and a half lbs. of fresh or preserved pineapple ;
put it into a basin and pour over it one quart of boiling syrup at
20°. Let it cool, and infuse for two hours.

Strain through a woollen bag ; add a piece of ice and sufficient
seltzer water to reduce the liquid to 9°. Keep the preparation in
the cool for a further twenty minutes, and complete it, when about
to serve, with three liqueur- glassfuls of Kirsch.

2939— CHERRY WATER

Stone two lbs. of very ripe cherries, and rub them through a
sieve. Put the purde into a basin with the stones, crushed in the
mortar, and let the whole macerate for one hour. Then moisten
with one pint of filtered water, and strain the juice through a
woollen bag, or muslin folded in two and stretched.

Add a piece of well-washed ice and six oz. of loaf-sugar, and
put the whole in the cool for twenty minutes. Flavour, when
about to serve, with four liqueur-glassfuls of Kirsch.

The saccharometer should register 9° when inserted into this
preparation.

2940— RASPBERRY. FLAVOURED, RED-CURRANT WATER

Rub through a sieve, over a basin, twelve oz. of red and white
currants, and four oz. of very ripe raspberries. Add to the currant-
water one pint of filtered water, six oz. of loaf-sugar, and one
piece of washed ice. Keep the whole in the cool for twenty
minutes, and stir it from time to time with a silver spoon, that the
sugar may dissolve.

Degree the same as in No. 2939.

2941— MELON ADE

Rub one lb. of just-ripe melon pulp through a sieve. Put it
into a basin and pour over it one pint of boiling syrup at 20°.

3 G

8i8 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

Let the whole cool and infuse for two hours, and strain it through
muslin or through a woollen bag. Add a piece of very clean ice
and sufficient seltzer water to reduce the syrup to 9°. Keep the
preparation in the cool for a further twenty minutes, and finish it,
when about to serve, with two tablespoonfuls of orange-flower
water.

2942— KALTSCHALE

Peel and slice one-half lb. of peaches and an equal quantity of
pineapple ; add four oz. of ripe, melon pulp, cut into dice, and
four oz. of a mixture of raspberries and red and white currants,
cleared of their stalks. Put these fruits in a silver timbale and
keep the latter on ice. Set a little cinnamon to infuse in a half-
bottleful of boiling, white wine; add six oz. of sugar and the
zest of one lemon ; and let the whole cool. Then add half a
pint of a mixed puree of strawberries and red-currants to this
infusion.

Filter the whole, and complete it by the addition of a bottle of
champagne.

Pour this preparation over the fruit, and serve the timbale very
cold.

2943— ORANGEADE

Proceed as for lemonade, but use the juice and zests of orange
rinds instead of those of lemons, and the juice of only half a
lemon. Put very thin slices of orange in the glasses.

2944— PUNCH WITH KIRSCH

Throw a good half oz. of tea into one quart of boiling water,
and let it infuse for ten minutes. Put into a punch or salad-bowl
one lb. of loaf-sugar ; strain the infusion of tea over the sugar, and
dissolve the latter ; stirring the while with a silver spoon.

Add one and a half pints of Kirsch, set it alight, and serve in
glasses.

2945— PUNCH WITH RUM

Make an infusion as above, with the same amount of tea and
one quart of boiling water. Strain it over one lb. of loaf-sugar, in
a punch-bowl, and let the sugar dissolve.

Add a few thin slices of lemon, and one and a half pints of
rum, and set light to it. Serve with a slice of lemon in each
glass.

2946— PUNCH MARQUISE

Put into a small, copper saucepan one quart of Sauterne wine,
half-lb. of loaf-sugar, and the zest of the rind of one lemon bound
round a clove. Dissolve the sugar ; heat the wine until it becomes

DRINKS AND REFRESHMENTS 819

covered by thin white froth, and pour it into a punch-bowl after
having withdrawn the zest and the clove.

Add half a pint of burnt brandy ; set it alight and let it burn
itself out.

Serve with a thin slice of lemon in each glass.

2947— ICED PUNCH

Prepare a Marquise Punch as above ; when the wine is hot,
take it off the fire ; throw in a good half oz. of tea, and let the
whole infuse under cover for ten minutes.

Pass the whole through a fine strainer ; add one orange and one
lemon, peeled raw and cut into slices, and some heated rum. Set
alight; leave to cool, and reduce to 15°. Then freeze like a
Granite, and serve in glasses.

2948— HOT WINE

Pour one bottleful of red wine over ten oz. of loaf-sugar, set in
a small, copper basin. Dissolve the sugar. Add one orange zest,
a bit of cinnamon and mace, and one clove. Heat the wine
until it is covered by thin froth, and then pass it through a fine
strainer.

Serve with a thin slice of lemon in each glass.

2949— HOT WINE WITH ORANGE

Pour half a pint of boiling water over ten oz. of loaf sugar.
Add the zest of one orange and let infusion proceed for fifteen
minutes. Withdraw the zest, and mix one bottleful of heated
Burgundy wine with the infusion.

Serve with a roundel of orange in each glass.

2950— WINE A LA FRAN9AISE

Put eight oz. of sugar into a salad-bowl, and sprinkle thereon a
few tablespoonfuls of water, that it may dissolve. Add one bottle-
ful of excellent Bordeaux wine or red Burgundy, and the half of a
lemon cut into thin slices. Stir the whole well with a silver spoon,
and serve with a slice of lemon in each glass.

N.B. — Always remember to free the lemons and oranges used of
all pips, which would lend a bitterness to the drink.

2951— CLARET CUP

Put into a crystal bowl one oz. of loaf-sugar, the rind of one
lemon and three slices of the latter, an equal quantity of orange,
one strip of cucumber peel, one tablespoonful of Angostura Bitter,
and a liqueur-glassful of each of the following liqueurs : — Brandy,
Maraschino and white Curasao.

Complete with one and a half bottles of red wine and a bottle of
Soda. Cover and let the whole infuse. Strain, add a few pieces of
very clean ice and a few leaves of fresh mint.

3 G 2

CHAPTER XXII

FRUIT-STEWS AND JAMS.

3952— PLAIN STEWED FRUIT

Fruit for stewing is used whole, halved or quartered, and cooked
or poached in a syrup, of a flavour in keeping with the fruit.

Dish these preparations in tazzas, bowls or deep dishes ; cover
them with their syrup, reduced or not ; and, in certain cases, thicken
the latter with arrowroot. They may be served hot or cold ; but'
in any case, the fruit used should not be too ripe.

2953— MIXED STEWED FRUIT

These preparations generally consist of stewed, fresh fruit of one
or several kinds ; combined with fruit purees. -~— — - .

Quince and apple jellies are greatly used, either in coating the
preparations or in bordering them with dice, &c.

With this class of stewed fruits, which are merely a matter of
fancy and taste, candied and preserved fruits are almost always
used as auxiliary constituents. ~~

2954 — JAMS

Under this generic title the following preparations are
classed : —

(i) Those in which the fruit is treated directly with the
sugar : —

(2) Those in which the juice alone, owing to its gelatinous
nature, produces, together with the sugar, consistent jellies.

The amount of sugar used is subject to the nature of the fruit
and its sweetness; but in the case of nearly all tart fruits, the
weight of sugar should equal^that of the fruit, or nearly so.

If too much sugar be used, the flavourTsTmpaired ; while crystal-
lisation will follow very shortly afterwards ; if too little be used, the
jam has to be overcooked in order to be made sufficiently consist-
ent, and the flavour is once more impaired by protracted evapora-
tion ; finally if the j^ime allowed for cooking be inadequate, rapid
fermentation will be the result. "^™-".

FRUIT-STEWS AND JAMS 821

In making jam, therefore, the operator should base his measure
of sugar upon the nature of the fruit he intends treating.

2955— THE COOKING, POTTING, AND SEALING OF JAMS

The time allowed for cooking any jam whatsoever can only be
approximately decided, and it is a gross mistake to suppose the
case otherwise, since the matter is wholly dependent upon the in-
tensity of the fire, and the resulting speed of the evaporation of the
vegetable moisture. Theoretically, a jam is all the better for
having been cooked quickly, seeing that it~rnay'thus more easily
preserve its colour and flavour.

For all that, unless great care and attention be exercised, a whole-
fruit jam ought not to be made on a too violent fire, lest it burn.
Conversely, when jellies are in question, wherein the juice albne~ar"
the fruit is treated, the fire should be as intense as possibie; in
order that the required degree of consistence, which marks the close
of the operation, may be reached as speedily as possible.

The degree of consistence is the same for all jellies, and may be
ascertained thus : when the steam given off by the preparation
loses its density, and the boiling movement becomes perceptible, it
may be concluded that evaporation nas ceased,' and that the real
cooking-process, which is very rapid, has begun. At this stage
frequently take the skimmer out of the saucepan^"'

The jam adhering to it falls ofiF, at first very quickly ; then, in
a few minutes, it is seen to accumulate towards the centre of the
skimmer and to fall therefrom slowly at lengthy intervals, in large
drops.

This stage, which is indubitably indicative of the cooking being
at an end, is called the "nappe" and is equivalent to the large-
thread stage in the cooking of sugar ; and, as soon as it is reached,
the jam should be taken off the fire. Allow it to cool for seven or
eight minutes, and pour it into pots, which, if of glass, should be
gradually heated, lest they crack.

The following day, set a round piece of white paper saturated
with rectified glycerine, on each pot, and drop these pieces of
paper directly upon the jam. Rectified glycerine will be found
preferable by far to the commonly-used sugared brandy.

Then close the pots with a double sheet of paper, fastened on
with string, and place them somewhere in the dry.

2956— APRICOT JAIVI

Cut the apricots in two, and use very ripe fruit, grown in the
open, if possible. Break the stones, skin the almonds, and cut
them in two. Allow three-quarters lb. of loaf-sugar per lb. of fruit.
Put this sugar in a preserving pan with one-third pint of water per

822 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

two lbs. of sugar, and, when the latter is dissolved, boil for a few
minutes, carefully skimming the while. Add the apricots, set the
whole to cook on a moderate fire, and stir incessantly, especially
towards the end, when the jam is more particularly prone to burn
on the bottom of the saucepan. Take the jam off the fire as soon
as it reaches the " nappe " stage, as explained above, and mix the
almonds with the jam.

2957— CHERRY JAM

Stone the cherries, and allow one and a half lbs. of loaf-sugar
per two lbs. of the fruit ; taking care to have equal weights of sugar
and fruit if the latter be not over sweet. Put the sugar in the
preserving pan ; moisten it with water that it may dissolve, and
boil it for five minutes, skimming carefully the while. Add the
cherries and a half-pint of red-currant juice, and cook over a fierce
fire until the " nappe " stage is reached.

Remarks: — (i) The addition of red-currant juice is advocated
for this jam, seeing that by ensuring the proper consistence it
obviates prolonged cooking ; and, as I have already pointed out,
red' fruit is all the better, and preserves a more perfect colour, when
it is cooked rapidly.

(2) When the fruit begins to boil, carefully skim it, otherwise
the scum hardens, and not only spoils the jam but often sets it
fermenting.

2958— STRAWBERRY JAM

This is one of the most difficult jams to make. There are
several ways of preparing it, and the one I give strikes me as the
quickest and simplest. Clean the fruit, which should be just ripe.
Only wash it when absolutely necessary, as, for instance, when
mould has stuck to it.

Allow twelve oz. of sugar per lb. of fruit. Put this sugar in a
preserving pan, sprinkle it with water that it may dissolve, and
cook it to the large-hall stage (see No. 2344), taking care to skim
thoroughly when boiling begins. Throw the strawberries into the
sugar, and set the preserving pan on the side of the fire for seven
or eight minutes ; that is to say, until the moisture of the fruit has
dissolved the sugar to a syrup.

Return the saucepan to a fierce fire, and cook the strawberries
for ten or twelve minutes, remembering to carefully remove the
scum that forms.

Then withdraw the strawberries by means of a slice and drain
them in a basin. Continue cooking the syrup rapidly, until the
" nappe " stage shows signs of appearing, then return the straw-

FRUIT-STEWS AND JAMS 823

berries for five minutes ; that is to say, until the " nappe " stage is
completely reached. '

^iU the pots, little bjjjittle, that the^strawberries may be well
distributedin tiiem and not rise in ^a^mass' to the top, as often
happens when the receptacles are filled too quickly.

2959— ORANGE MARMALADE

Select some oranges about equal in size, of a good colour, free
from blemishes, and with thick and soft rinds. The latter con-
sideration is important, seeing that tFe"" parboiling operatiOTTTs"
effected more' perfectly when the rinds are thick and supple.

Prick them somewhat deeply with a small, pointed stick (in
order to precipitate the cooking process), and throw them into
a preserving pan of boiling water. Boil for thirty minutes ; drain
the oranges, cool them, and put them under a running tap for
twelve hpurs, or more if possible ; or soak them in constantly
changed, cold water for twenty hours. The object of this operation
is to soften the rinds and extract their bitterness.

This done, drain the oranges ; quarter them, remove their pips
and filaments, and rub them through a coarse sieve.

Take the same weight of sugar as of orange purde. Melt the
former in the preserving pan, and boil it for five or six minutes,
skimming carefully the while. Then add the orange purde, and
one-quarter pint of good apple juice per lb. of the former.

During the first stage of the cooking process, skim with great
care, and during the second stage, stir almost incessantly until the
" nappe " stage is reached.

2960— PLUM JAM

Allow twelve oz. of loaf-sugar per lb. of stoned plums.

Dissolve the sugar ; skim, set it to boil for seven or eight
minutes, and proceed for the cooking as directed under apricot jam.

Remarks : — (i) It is a mistake to let the plums macerate in the
sugar for some hours previously, for the acid they contain causes
them to blacken, and the colour of the jam is thus spoiled. (2) In
order to have greengage jam of a fine, green colour, do not cook
more than from six to eight lbs. of it at a time, and cook that
quantity as quickly as possible.

2961— RHUBARB JAM

Rhubarb jam is one of the most difficult and tedious to make
owing (i) to the abundant moisture contained by the vegetable ;
(2) to its proneness to burn on the bottom of the saucepan,
especially towards the close of the cooking process.

If it be desired very green, select suitable natural rhubarb ; if it
be desired pink, only take the central stalks which are bordered

824 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

with red, or use forced rhubarb. In any case, it is best not to make
more than five or six lbs. at once.

Suppress the ends of the stalks, cut what remains into pieces ;
by means of a small knife, scrape off the adhering skin and cut the
stalks into three-inch lengths. Allow thirteen oz. of loaf-sugar per lb.
of rhubarb. Dissolve the former, boil it for seven or eight minutes,
and then throw the rhubarb into it. Cover the preserving pan and
put it on the side of the stove for about twelve minutes that the
fibres of the rhubarb may be disaggregated, and at the end of that
time become like vermicelli.

Then set the saucepan upon a fierce fire, and stir constantly
until the preparation reaches the " nappe " stage, whereupon the jam
is finished.

2962— TOMATO JAM

There are also several ways of making this jam, of which the
following seems the most expeditious :

The first fact that should be grasped is that the amount of pulp
that can be used represents about one-fifth of the tomato, and this
itself depends upon the kind of tomato used, and whether it be
just ripe, nearly so, or very ripe.

In order to obtain one lb. of pulp, therefore, five lbs. of tomatoes
should be used, or thereabouts.

Finely slice the tomatoes, and rub them through a sieve. Put
the juice and the pur^e into the jam-saucepan, and boil for five
minutes, stirring the while.

This done, pour the whole into a napkin, stretched between the
four legs of an overturned stool, as for straining a jelly ; and let it
drain thoroughly.

At the end of the operation, therefore, all that remains on the
napkin is the mere vegetable pulp, freed of all moisture.

Allow the same weight of sugar as of pulp. Put the former
into the jam-saucepan, together with a small glassful of water ; let
it dissolve, and cook it to the small-ball stage (see the cooking of
sugar) ; taking care to skim it well as soon as it begins to boil. A
stick of vanilla may be put with the sugar before boiling it ; or the
jam may be flavoured with a good tablespoonful of vanilla sugar
when it is taken off the fire ; in any case, the jam ought to be
flavoured with vanilla.

When the sugar has reached the small-ball stage, add the
tomato pulp to it, and one-fourth pint of red-currant juice per
lb. of pulp. Owing to the fact that tomato pulp of itself has no
cohesive properties the mixing of red-currant juice with it is
essential.

FRUIT-STEWS AND JAMS 825

Set the preserving pan upon a fierce fire, stirring incessantly the
while, until the " nappe " stage is reached ; then let the jam cook
for a few more minutes.

2963— BLACK-CURRANT JELLY
Take some very ripe black-currants : clean them ; put them
into the preserving-pan with half a glassful of water per two lbs.
of fruit, and let them boil.

While this preparatory operation is in progress, the skins of the
currants burst, and their juice flows into the pan. At this stage,
transfer the fruit to a sieve lying on a bowl — a much simpler
method than crushing and pressing them in a twisted towel.

Allow as many lbs. of sugar as there are quarts of juice ; put
this sugar into the preserving-pan ; dissolve it, and cook it to the
small-ball stage ; thoroughly skimming the while. Add the
black-currant juice, combined per quart with half pint of white-
currant juice.

Move the utensil to the side of the stove for a few minutes, that
the sugar may dissolve, and then cook the jelly on a fierce fire,
carefully skimming the while, until the "nappe" stage is almost
reached.

Remarks : The object of adding the white-currant jelly is to
modify the blackness of pure black-currant jelly.

2964— QUINCE JELLY

Select very ripe fruit ; cut it into slices ; peel and pip these, and
throw them into a basin of fresh water.

Then put them into a preserving-pan with three and a half pints
of water per lb. of quinces, and cook them without touching them.
This done, transfer them to a sieve, and let them drain. Return
the juice to the pan, together with twelve oz. of loaf-sugar per lb. ;
dissolve the sugar ; and set the whole to cook on a fierce fire,
meanwhile skimming with care, until the " nappe " stage is almost
reached.

As soon as the jelly is cooked, strain it through a piece of
muslin stretched over a basin ; and by this means, a perfectly clear
jelly will be obtained.

2965— RED-CURRANT JELLY (Method A)

Take some red and white currants, in the proportion of two-
thirds of the former to one-third of the latter, and combine with
them, per two lbs., three oz. of raspberries. Crush the three
products together in a basin, and then press them in small
quantities at a time, in a strong towel, in order to extract their
juice. Put the juice in the preserving-pan, together with eight oz.
of loaf-sugar per pint. Thoroughly dissolve the sugar, and set the

826 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

whole to cook over a very fierce fire ; meanwhile skimming care-
fully^-more particularly at first, until the " nappe " stage is
reached.

N.B.— The yield of juice from red-currants equals about two-
thirds or three-fourths the weight of the raw fruit.

2966— RED=CURRANT JELLY (Method B)

Take the same quantities of white and red currants and of
raspberries, as above. Carefully clean the fruit ; wash it in cold
water, and put it into the preserving-pan, with one wineglassful of
water per lb.

Cook the whole gently on the side of the stove for ten or
twelve minutes ; transfer the fruit to a sieve, lying on a basin, and
let it drain.

Put the juice into the preserving-pan, with twelve oz. of loaf-
sugar per lb., and proceed with the cooking as before.

2967— RED=CURRANT JELLY (JVlethod C)

Take the same quantities as above of white-currants, red-
currants, and raspberries. Remove the currants from their stalks
by means of a fork, and collect them in a basin ; clean the
raspberries, and allow twelve oz. of loaf-sugar per lb. of the
fruit.

Dissolve the sugar in the preserving-pan with a little water
and cook it to the small-ball stage ; meanwhile skimming care-
fully.

Throw the currants and the raspberries into it ; put the pan on
the side of the fire for seven or eight minutes, that the juice may
exude from the fruit ; and then cook on a fierce fire, skimming
very carefully the while, until the " nappe " stage is reached.

2968— WHITE=CURRANT JELLY

This is made from fresh, very ripe white-currants and two oz
of raspberries per lb. of the latter. Any one of the three methods
given above may be followed in its preparation,' although Method C
will be found to yield the clearest jelly.

2969— RED=CURRANT JELLY, PREPARED COLD

Prepare the juice as directed under No. 2965. Add to it
one lb. of icing-sugar per quart, and keep the whole in the cool for
two or three hours, taking care to stir it frequently with a silver
spoon in order to dissolve the sugar. Fill the pots and keep them
uncovered for two or three days.

This done, cover them in the usual way, and set them in the
sun for two or three hours per day for two days.

FRUIT-STEWS AND JAMS 827

This jelly is as fragile as it is delicate, and should be kept
in the dry.

2970— ORANGE JELLY

In order to make one quart of orange jelly, take twelve oranges,
each weighing about five oz. ; one-third pint of good apple juice,
one lb. of loaf-sugar, and a tablespoonful of grated orange sugar.
The latter is obtained by rubbing the rinds of the oranges with
loaf-sugar, and then grating the sugar so coloured and flavoured
with a hard knife.

If the jelly be desired garnished, insert a fair-sized, candied
orange-rind cut into small strips.

Preparation: — Thoroughly press the oranges and filter the
juice ; prepare the apple juice, and set the sugar to dissolve with
a few drops of water.

Add the orange and apple juice to the sugar, and cook the jelly
like the preceding ones. Leave it to cool for ten minutes ; mix
with it the orange sugar and the candied rind, and pour it
into pots.

3971— APPLE JELLY

Proceed exactly as for quince jelly, and strain the apple juice
without pressing the fruit. Do not cook the latter over much, lest
the juice becomes mixed with pulp. Nevertheless, this should be
very carefully poured away ; for, in spite of the greatest care,
there is always a certain amount of deposit.

Put the juice into the preserving pan, with thirteen oz. of loaf-
sugar and one-third of a stick of vanilla per quart.

Cook, and strain through muslin, as in the case of quince jelly.

2972— TOMATO JELLY (ist Method)

Prepare the tomatoes as directed under No. 2962.

Per lb. of drained juice allow one good pint of apple jelly, twenty
oz. of sugar, and a large vanilla stick.

Put into the preserving-pan the sugar, the apple jelly, and the
vanilla-flavoured tomato juice, and put the utensil on the side
of the fire for five minutes.

This done, set the whole to cook on a fierce fire, until the "nappe"
stage is reached.

2973— TOMATO JELLY (2nd Method)

Take the same amount of juice as in the preceding case.

Use red-currant jelly instead of apple jelly, and prepare the
former from red and white currants in the proportion of one-third
of the former to two-thirds of the latter. Use the same amount
of vanilla as above. Put the latter into the preserving-pan ;

828 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

dissolve it with a little water ; add the vanilla, and cook it to the
small-crack stage (see No. 2962) ; remembering to skin carefully at
the start.

Add the tomato pulp and the red-currant jelly to the cooked
sugar ; put the whole on the side of the stove for a moment in
order to reduce the sugar ; and then proceed with the cooking on a
very fierce fire until the " nappe " stage is reached.

MENUS

829

MENUS DE DEJEUNERS.

Concombre ?narini aux piments doux,

Duchesse au Caviar.

(Eufsfrits.

Pieds de mouton foulette.

Poulet Bonne femme,

P&U defoie gras.

Pain grim tris chaud.

Asperges d thuile.

Piche Cardinal.

Pdiisserie.

Hors-d CEuvres.

(Eufs Cocotte.

Sole grilUe Diable.

Faisan poili au Cileri.

Parfait defoie gras.

Salade Rachel.
Souffli au Chocolai.
Tartelette aux fruits.

Kilkis. Olives de Lucques.

Crevettes roses.

Truite au bleu.

Agneau de lait Botdangkre.

Terrine de Canard Rouennais,

Cceurs de Romaine.

Asperges vertes.

Mousse d la Praise.

Millefeuilles.

Hors-d^ CEuvre.

Merlan d, I'anglaise.

Fricassie de poulet a tancienne.

Selle d^ Agneau A la Broche.

Petit s pais Franfaise.

Souffli au Kirsch.

Fromage i la Crkme.

Confiture de groseille de Bar-le-Duc.

Figues nouvelles glacies.

Olives farcies.

Omelette atixfonds d' Artichauts.

Langoustine Ravigote.

Queue de bomf en Daube.

Cardans au parmesan.

Alouette a la casserole.

Salade Lerette,

Praises et ptches au Maraschino.

Pdiisserie.

Fenouil a la Grecque.

Salade de Salicoque.

Turbotin au vin rouge.

Pilau aux ris d' Agneau.

Caneton nouveau aux petits pais.

Mousse dejamion i la gelde.

Salade d'asperges.

Coupe d'Antigny.

Fruits.

830

GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

MENUS DE DEJEUNERS.

Anguilh fum(e dt Kiel.

Cerneaux au verjus.

CE-ufs bronilUes aux truffes.

Homard Am(ricaine.

Poulet foiU Minaghre.

Selle de Pri-saK.

Petits pais au laitues.

Riz Impfratrice.

Sablis Viennois.

Artichauts h la Grecque.

Sardines au Currie.

Truite h la MeunUre.

Pudding de Bicassine atix truffes.

Selle d'Agneau de lait.

Haricots verts h Vanglaise, Pomtnes Anna.

, Souffii aux Ecrevisses ^ la Florentine.

Crepes Suzette,

Fruits.

Colchester Natives.

CEufs frits.

Merlan sur le plat.

Noisette a'Agneau Rachel.

Pommes paille.

Perdreati h la Broche.

Salade de cileri aux truffes.

Bavarois au Chocolat,

Petits Condis.

Fruits.

Cantaloup rafraichi.

Matelote de Sole.

Risotto de Volaille.

Rdble de lih/re A la crime.

Purie de marrons.

Aspic de homard.

Salade de ligumes.

Poire au vin rouge.

Pdtisserie.

Anchois de Collioure.

Tomates marinies.

CEufs ct la Reine.

Whitebait Diahlis.
Tournedos Bdarnaise.

Pommes souffiees.

Faisan Casserole.

Salade d^ Endives.

Pati defoie gras.
Charlotte de pommes.

Crime Chantilly.

Hors-d" CEuvres.

Moules h la Mariniire.

CStelette d'Agneau grillie,

Purie de pommes de terre.

Perdreau Pirigouraine.

Salade de Cileri.

Souffli au Paprika.

Mont Blanc aux marrons.

Pdtisserie Parisienne.

MENUS

831

MENU.

Hoi s-d' CEuvre.

Melon Cantaloup.

Tortue Claire.

Germiny.

Consommi Madriline.

Truite d'Ecosse au Vin du Rhin,

Mignonnettes de Sole.

Poularde Souffle au Paprika Rose.

Concombres au Velouti.

Selle d'Agneau Rotie

ou

Selle de Chevreuil d. la Bohimiemie.

SuprSmes d'£crevisses Moscovite.

Nei^e au Clicquot.

Cailles escorties d' Ortolans.

Salade de Cceurs de Romaine.

Jamton de Prague sous la Cendre.

SoujffU d'Asperges Rothschild.

Biscuit Glad h P Orientate.

Mille-Feuilles, Petit-Due.

Diablotins.

Plches, Nectarines et Raisin Muscat.

VINS.

Sandringham Pale Vino de Pasto.

Josefhofer Auslese 1900.

Chdieau-Mouton Rothschild, Grand Vin
1878.

Pomviery et Greno, Vin Nature 1889.

Bouquet et fits. House of Commons Cuvie
1892.

Dovfs Port 1887.

Chdteau- Yquem de Lur-Saluces 1884.

Grande Fine Champagne.

Grandes Liqueurs.

Cafi! Double.

2qth June, 1906.

MENU.

Hors-d CEuvre Suidoise.

Consommi glad.

Tortue Claire.

SuprSmes de Sole au vin du Rhin.

Selle de Presold aux Laitues i la Grecque.

Petits Pois a la Bourgeoise.

Poularde au Paprika Rose.

Cailles aux Raisins.

Caurs de Romaines.

Aspers;es Mousselhus.

Ecrevisses i la Moscovite.

Souffle Surprise.

Mille-Feuilles, Petit-Due, Friandises.

PSches, Nectarines, Ananas, Muscat.

VINS.

1897 Eitelsbacher.

1888 Chdteau-Fourteau.

1893 Kiedricher Berg Auslese.

1878 Chdteau- Rauzan Sigala.

Veuve Clicqttot-Ponsardin, rose.

1900 Heidsieck et Cie.

La Grande Marque de V Empereur.

iZth June, igo6.

Menu of Dinner served on board the
AtfKrika, under the direction of A. EscoiBer,
on the occasion of the visit of His Majesty
William 11., Emperor of Germany.

832

GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

MENU.

Hors d' CEuvre Moscoviie.

Tortile claire.

Germiny.

Truite mi Chambertin.

Mignonettes de Sole. "

Whitebait Diablis.

Cailles h la Turque.

Baron a'agneau de lait Soubise.

Petits pois ^ I'Anglaise.

Pommes Byron.

Suprhiies de Volaille Jeannette.

Nageoires de Tortue h la Maryland.

Sorbet fieur de Phher.

Caneton de Rouen h Vorange.

Tambon de Prague sous la cendre.

Fives de Marais.

Asferges d' Argenteuil.

Biscuit glacS pralini.

Feuillantine.

CEufs de pluvier en Aspic.

Diablotins.

Praises Chantilly.

2^th May, 1905.

MENU.

Hors-d' CEuvre,

ConsommS Leopold.

Bisque d' &crevisses,

Turbotin au Volnay.

Whitebait Diabli.

Poularde h la Diva.

Concombres au. beurre,

Selle d'agneau Portugaise,

Haricots verts d I'Anglaise.

Faisan PMgourdine.

Salade d' Endives,

Pdti defoie gras.

Biscuit glad aux marrons.

Savarin aux fruits.

Frimidises.

lyd Noziembery 1905.

MENU.

Frivolitis Orientates.
Cantaloup au Maraschino,

Figues Fraiches.
Gelie aux Paillettes dories.

Consommi aux Nids d' Hirondelles.
Velouti au Bli Vert.

Sterlets du Volga a la Livonienne.
Nonats de la Miditerranie au Fenouil.

Chapon Fin i la Mode du Convent.

Mousse de Mai.

Jeune Venaison h la ChAtelaine.

Petites Mascottes Printaniire.

Sylphides Roses.

Flburs de P£cher.

Cailles escorties d'Ortolans Sie. Alliance.
Ccsurs de Romaine aux Pommes d' Amour.

Asperges de France au Beurre d'Isigny.
Suprlnies d' Mcrevisses au Champagne.

Belle de Nuit.

Binidiciines — Mignardises.

Huttres Perlieres en Surprise.

Fruits de Serve Chaude.

Cafi Turc.

Vins du Rhin.

Grands Crus de France.

Grandes Liqueurs,

May, 1906.

MENUS

833

MENU.

Caviar frais — CEufs de pluvier.

Melon,

Tortile claire.

Rossolnick.

Truite an Chatnbertin.

Laitances Meuniere.

Pottlarde Souffiie A la Catalane.

Morilks h la crhne.

Selle cCAgneau de Galles aux laitues.

Petits pots (J PAnglaise.

Pommes Nana.

Sufirlme d' Ecrevisses Moscovite.

Punch A la Mandarine.

Caneton de Kouen h la Rmiemiaise.

Catirs de Komaine.

Asperges de France.

Biscuit glad aux violet tes.

Friandises.

Barquettes h V icossaise.

praises.

Phhes de Serre.

i2tA A/n't, 1905.

MENU.

CEufs de pluvier.

Caviar frais.

Consommi Henri IV.

Bisque d' Ecrevisses.

Truite au Chatnbertin.

Laitances Meuniere.

Filet de poulet au beurre noisette.

Petits pais d PAnglaise.

Selle dejeune Chevreuil aux cerises.

Terrine de Cailles A la Richelieu.

Punch glaci.

Caneton de Rouen au sang.

Salade Royale.

Asperges Sauce Mousseline,

Souffli au Parmesan d la Florentine.

Bombe Algisiras.

Biscuit Ginois.

Praises Chantilly,

lith May^ 1905.

MENU.

Truite Froide Amiral Caillard.

Filet de Sole h la Massina.

Mayonnaise de Homard.

Baron de Bceuf cV Ecosse.

Bceuf pressl Parlement.

Jambon d' York d la GeUe.

Chaudfroid de Caille <J la Loubet.

Poularde Edouard VII.

CStelette d'Agneau Maintenon.

Salade d la Parisienne.

Caur de Laitue.

Macidoine de Fruits au Champagne.

Meringue Chantilly.

Plches Cardinal.

Patisserie Fran(aise.

So^uffli Glad Fraternel.

Dessert.

Cafl.

Westminster Hall,

12M August. 1905.

Menu of the Luncheon offered by the Members

of both Houses of Parliament, to Admiral Caillard

and his Officers, on the occasion of the visit of the

French Fleet to Portsmouth in August, 1905.

MENU.

Caviar Blinis.

Royal Natives.

Velouti aux petits pois frais.

Filets de Sole Marie Stuart.

Barquettes de Laitances Florentine.

Supreme de poulet au beurre noisette.

Caurs d'Artichauts au velouti.

Selle de Chevreuil Grand Veneur.

Mousse d'Ecrevisse au Champagne.

Punch Napolitain.

Faisan truffi — Brochette d^ Ortolans.

Salade Lorette.

Asperges vertes.

Parfait defoie gras.

Biscuit glad i I'Orientale,

Mignardises.

Diablotins.

Ptches de Montreuil.

Raisin Muscat.

5th Octohtfi 1905,
3 H

834

GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

MENU.

Hors-cC auvre Moscmite.

Melon Gantaloup^Figues fratches.

GeUi Madrikne en tasse.

Tortue claire.

Truite Rigina.

Mignonnettes de Sole.

C6ielettes d'agiieau de lait MarichaU.

Petits pots d I' Anglaise.

Jmnbon de Prague sous la cendre.

Crhne de Champignons.

Poularde Suldoise.

Punch Sicilien.

Caille au Muscat.

Brochette d' Ortolans.

Salade d'Asperges A la Toulousaine.

Mousseline d'Ecreiiisses.

Souffli mUne.

G&teau ManquS.

P$ches. Nectarines.

^^thjune^ 1906.

MENU.

Melon Cantaloup.

Torttie claire.

Crime Marie Louise.

Truite de Riviere au bleu.

CStelettes de Volaille Edouard VII.

Selle de Chevreuil Grand Veneur.

Ponimes en Croquettes.

Haricots Verts.

Cailles escorties d^ Ortolans.

Salade de Cceurs de Romaitie.

Mousse d'Ecrevisse Moscovite.

Peches Mclha.

Friandises.

Souffli au Parmesan.

26th Juty, 1906.

MENU.

Melon Cantaloup.

Caviar.

Tortue Claire.

Consomtiii froid en gelie.

Truite au Champagne.

Citelettes a'agneau de lait Marhhale.

Concombres au veloutL

/ambon de Prague sous la cendre.

Petits pots a la Francaise.

Poularde Niva.

Poulet Rose Marie.

Caille au raisin.

Cceurs de Romaine.

Asperges d' Argenteuil.

Souffli au Parmesan.

Peches et /raises Melba.

Friandises.

zndjufiet 1905.

MENU.

Caviar de la Nhja — Blinis.

Royal Natives.

Tortue claire.

Stchi h la Russe.

Supreme de sole au Chdteau Yqiiem.

Caille au nid.

Selle de Chizelles <J la Broche.

Purie de Cileri.

Bicasse aufumet.

Salade Lorette.

Asperges veries.

Parfait defoie gras au Clicquot.

Souffli Rothschild.

Biscuit glad aux perles des Alpes.

Corbeille de fruits.

1st November^ 1905

MENUS

835

MENU.

Hors-d'cetiwe Moscovite.

Royal Natives.

Toriue claire.

Crhne (Pasperges.

Saumon au Coulis d'Rcreruisse.

Whitebait diablis.

Poularde (J la Piimontaise,

apes RissoUs.

Baron d'agneau de lait.

Haricots verts noiweatix d I'Anglaise.

Pommes Noisette.

Mandarines givries.

Becasse au Chambertin.

Salade d' Endive au Cileri.

Jambon sous la cendre.

Fhies de marais.

Bombe Niro.

Savarin au Kirsch.

Barquette Venddme.

Plches et /raises.

ioth February^ 1906.

MENU.

Caviar — Blinis.
Tortue claire- — Velouti Marie-Louise.

Turbotin au Chambertin.

Supreme de poulet aux truffes fratches.

Ponds d'artichauts au velouti.

Selle d'agneau de Galles.

Haricots verts d. I'Anglaise.

Tomate au gratin.

Mousse d'Ecrevisse.

Bicassine rosie — Ortolans des Chasseurs.

Salade Impiriale.

Asperges de France.

Parfait de foie gras.

Souffli en surprise.

Corbeille de fruits.

21st November^ 1905.

MENU.

Hors-d'oeuvre Moscovite,

Royal Natives.

Consommi Henri IV. — Velouti Rachel.

Turbotin Newburg.

Mignonnette de Sole au paprika.

Timbale de Caille Pirigourdine.

Purie de Cileri.

Selle d'agneau de Bihague,

Petit s pois h I'Anglaise.

Pommes noisette.

Supreme de poulet Rose de Mai.

Neige au Clicquot.

Perdreau et Grouse A. la Broche.

Cceurs de laitues aux fines herbes.

Asperges vertes.

Parfait defoie gras.

Bombe Ste. Alliance.

Biscuit Mousseline h V Orange.

Barquette Venddme.

Fruits.

$th October, igo6.

MENU.

Melon au Porto,

Tortue claire.

Velouti aux Pommes d' Amour.

Filets de Sole au Chdteau Yquem.

Cassolette d'Ecrevisses.

Caille fudic.

Baron d'agneau de lait d la Menthe.

Petits pois Franfaise.

Poularde Rose Marie.

Sorbet au Clicquot.

Caneton de Rouen A la Presse.

Salade d' Orange.

Asperges Anglaises,

Souffli glaci aux PSches,

Pain de Gines,

Barquette Venddme,

Corbeille de Fruits,

zoth June, 1905,
^ H 2

836

GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

MENU.

Hors-d' ceuvre Moscovite.

Consommi Henri IV.

Bisque d'Ecrevisses.

Trtdte saumonie Livonienne.

Whitebait.
Timbale de Cailles A la Roy ale.
Baron d'agtieau de lait Mireille.

Haricots verts il V Anglaise.

Siiprlme de volaille d I'Ancienne.

Caneton de Rotten ati sang.

Cceurs de Romaine.

Asperges a' Argenteuil.

Bombe Orientate.

Biscuit Mousseline.

Diablotins h la Moelle.

Praises au Porto.

Crime Chantilly.

-zoth May, 1906.

MENU.

Frivolity Moscovite.

Consommi h la moelle d'esturgeon.

Velouti aux nids dhirondelle.

Sylphide d. la crime de piment.

Cailles pochies aux perles noires.

Julienne de Cileri.

Cochon de lait St. Antoine.

Pommes aigrelettes h la geUe de groseille.

Bicasse au feu d'Enfer.
Cceurs de Romaine aux pommes d amour.

Asperges de Provence.

Supreme defoie gras au vin de Moselle.

Belles de Nuit.

Diablotins roses,

Mignardises.

vjih Octoher, 1906.

MENU.

Caviar — CEufs depluvier.

Melon.

Tortue claire — Velouti Marie Louise.

Timbale de homard AmMcaine.

Poularde Favorite.

Concombres <J la crime.

Jambon de Prague d la Metternich.

Petits pois aux laitues braisies.

Supreme de Caneton d la Viennoise.

Neige au Clicquot.

Caille Alexanara.

Salade Impiriale.

Asperges d^ Argenteuil.

Souffli au Parmesan d la Florentine.

Biscuit glad pralini.

Mille-feuilles au chocolat.

Praises Elizabeth — Mignardises,

ilih April, 1905.

MENU.

Melon Cantaloup.

Bortsch.

Velouti Royale.

Timbale de Sole Neivburg.

Caille Judic.

Riz d la Grecque.

Selle dagneau Portugaise,

Haricots verts d V Anglaise.

Supreme de volaille glad au Paprika.

Punch d V orange,

Caneton Bigarade,

Cceiir de Laittu aux ceufs.

Asperges Milanaise.

Souffli Urina.

Bombe Alexandra,

Biscuit Mousseline,

Fruits.

^thjitne, 1905.

MENUS

837

MENU.

Hors-cCCEuwe h. la Russe.

Tortue claire — Crime de concombre

Saumon Vironique,

Whitebait.

Caneton de Rouen VendSme.

Selle d'agneau de lait.

Petits fois frais — Pommes nouvelles.

Caille aux feuilles de vigne.

Salade.

Sorbet Pluie d'or.

Jambon de Prague ati Madire.

Souffle d'Epinard.

Asperger d'Argenteuil.

CEufs de pluvier en gelie.

Omelette Surprise.

Mousse d'Screvisse.

Praises Chantilly.

Frianaises.

yd May, 1905.

MENU.

Caviar Blinis.

Tortue claire.

Velouti Dame Blanche.

Filet de Sole Alice.

Caille pochie au Vin du Rhin.

Nouilles i I'Alsacienne.

Selle de Chevreuil aux cerises.

Purie de Marrons.

Bicassine rdtie.

Salade.

Asperges vertes.

Poire Melba.

Biscuit Mousseline au chocolat.

Fruits.

i^th October, 1905.

MENU.

Hors-d' ceuvre Moscovite.

Caviar as Sterlet — Blinis.

Tortile verte.

Consommi aux nids d' hirondelle.

Truite saumonie au Vin du Rhin.

Barquette de Laitance au Paprika.

Poularde royale.

Tivibale de Truffes Rossini,

Selle d'agneau de lait Soubise.

Petits pais nouveaux h FAnglaise.

Pommes Byron.

Souffle d'Ecrevisse <J r Orientate.

Mandarines givries.

Bicassine cL la broche,

Cceur de Romaine.

Asperges d' Argenteuil.

Plche au Kirsch.

Biscuit glad aux Violettes.

Mignardises — Marrons vanilUs.

Diablotins — praises — Raisins.

MENU.

Melon Cantaloup.

Tortue claire.

Consommi froid en gelie.

Mousseline de Sole aux Ecrevisses
Amiricaine.

Filet de poulet au beurre noisette.

Concombre au velouti.

Jambon de Prague sous la cendre.

Mats ct la crhiie.

Terrine de Canard Rouennaise.

Caille aux raisins.

Salade de Caur de Romaine.

Asperges d' Argenteuil.

Souffli au Parmesan.

Pkhe et /raises Melba.

Friandises.

i,thju

1905.

838

GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

MENU.

Caviar — Melon.

Conso7nvii Alexandra — Velout'e Royale.

Saumoneau fochi au Vin du Rhin.

Mignonnette de Sole au Paprika.

Poularde soufflie Alfred de Rothschild.

Baron dagneau de lait persilU.

Petits Pais nouveaux h la Fran(aise.

Mousseline d'Ecrevisses au Champagne.

Punch h la Romaine.

Caneton de Rotten d. la Rouennaise.

Cceur de Laitue aux a:ufs.

Asperges de France.

Pkhe Hilda.

GAteau Marie Brizard.

Barqiteite de Laitance Florentine.

$tk May, 1905.

MENU.

Hors-dceuvres.

Consoimni froid Napolitaine.

Rossolnick.

Truite Suzanne.

Baron d'agneau de lait.

Courgettes au gratin.

Petits Pots ^ la Paysanne.

Poularde Rose- Marie.

Caille aux Raisins.

Caur de Romaine.

Asperges d'Argenteuil.

Souffle au Parmesan.

Peche Melba.

Friandises.

i^ih June, 1905.

MENU.

Hors-d' ceuvre.

Consommi Rossini.

Velouti d'Ecrevisses.

Truite froide b, la Norvigienne.

Mignonnettes de Sole Murat.

Cdtelette d'agneau de lait MarUhale.

Concombres d. la Crhne.

Jfambon de Prague sous la cendre.

Souffle d Epinard.

Caneton VendSme.

Poussin en Casserole.

Cceurs de Romaine aux Pommes d' Amour.

Asperges Mousseline.

praises glacies h la Vanille.

Friandises.

ifik June, 1905.

MENU.

Hors-d ceuvre.

Melon rafratchi.

Consommi froid Madriline.

Truite Joinville.

Poularde Edouard VII.

Artichauts farcis.

Selle de Chevreuil a la Crime a la

Normande.

Caille en cocotte aux raisins.

Cceurs de Romaine.

Asperges d' Argenteuil.

Biscuit glace.

Piches et fraises h la Cardinal.

Gdteau Bibesco.

Friandises.

igth May, 1905.

MENUS

839

MENU.

Caviar frais — Melon Cantaloup.

Potage Biarnais.

Consomml aux nids cChirondelle.

Filet de truite au Chambertin.

Poularde aux Perles du Pirigord.

Nouilles au beurre noisette.

Mignonnette d'agneau Clarence.

Petits pais h la Franfaise.

Suprlme ct^crevisse.

Neige au Champagne.

Caille escorties d' Ortolans.

Cceur de laitue,
Asperges Creme cCIsigny.

Plche Alexandra.
Parfait atix trois couleurs.
dises.

Carlton Hotel,
tthjuly^ 1903.

Menu served on the occasion of the visit of the
President of the French Republic to London.

MENU.

Melon Cantaloup h la fine Champagne.

Caviar.

Poule aupot Henri IV,

Turbotin Vironique.,

Selle de Chevreuil h la Crime.

Bananes au beurre.

Pommes Duchesse.

Poularde VendSme,

Salade de laitue,

Asperges de Paris.

Praises d. la Ritz.

Friandises,

2Ut May, 1905.

MENU.

Hors-d' muvre Moscovite.

Tortue daire — Okra.

Truite au Vin de, la Moselle.

Mignonnette de Sole.

Poularde Diva.

Concombres au velouti.

Selle dagneau Portugaise.

Petits Pois aux laitues.

Terrine de Caille a la Richelieu.

Punch Rose,

Caneton ae Rotten k la Rouennaise,

Cceur ae Romaine.

Asperges Vertes,

Bombe Pralinie.

Mille-Feuilles.

Barquette Venddme.

Fruits.

xoth May, 1905.

840

GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

MENU.

Melon.

Consommi Messaline.

Sole Toulousaine.

Suprhiu de Volatile mixfomls d'Artichauls.

Noisettes d'Ag7ieau Fines Herbes.

Petits Pois cl I' Anglaise.

Pojumes Parisienne.

Mousse dejambon Moscovite.

Grouse A. la Broche.

Caille aux feuilles de Vigiie.

Salade.

Aubergine au gratin.

Peches et Framboises rafratchies.

Crime Chantilly.

Friandises.

MENU.

Caviar.

Consommi de Volatile h I'Ancieniie.

Germiny.

Supreme de Sole au Champagtte.

Laitance Meuniire.
Filet de Faisan Pdrigourdine.

Purie de Cileri.

Selle d'Agneau a la Broche.

Pommes Mireille.

Haricots verts.

Bicassine Chasseur.

Salade Lorette.

Asperges, Sauce Hollandaise.

Poire Melba.

priandises.

MENU.

Caviar — Blinis.

Consommi Henri IV.

Paupiette de Sole Newburg.

Filets de Poulet attx Truffes.

Fonds d' Artichauis a la Creme.

Selle d'Agneau de Lait a la Grecque.

Bicassine i. la Broche.

Salade Lorette.

Asperges vertes.

Souffli Rothschild.

Mandarines Glacies.

Friandises.
Barquette de Laitance.

MENU.

Caviar — Blinis.

Bortsch.

Sauiiion Hollandaise.

Caille d la Grecque.

Selle de Chevreuil poivrade.

Puree de Marrons.

Croquette Duchesse.

Mousse dejambon Alsacienne.

Poussin PMgourdine.

Salade.

Asierges vertes.

Biscuit aux Violettes.

Friandises.

FraUes Wilhelmina.

Fruits du Cap.

MENUS 841

MENU DE NOEL, 1906.

FrivoliUs.

Caviar frais.

Blinis de Sarrasin.

Oursins de la Miditerranie,

Consomnii aiix nids d' Hirondelle.

VelouU Dame Blanche.

Sterlet du Volga A la Moscovite.

Barquette de Laitance h la Vinitienne.

Chaponfin aux Perles du Pirigord. .

Cardon ipineux d la Toulousaine,

Selle de Chevreuil azix Cerises,

Sylphide d' Ortolan Reine Alexandra.

Supreme d'Ecrevisses au Champagne.

Mandarines GivrSes.

Terrine de Caille sous la Cendre aux Raisins.
Bicassine rosie au feu de sarments.

Salade Isahelle.

Asperges de France.

Dilices de Foie gras.

Souffle de Grenade h P Orientate.

Biscuit glcui aux Violettes.

Mignardises.
Fruits de Serre chaude.

Grandes Liqueurs.
Fine Champagne 1830.

842

GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

BON VOYAGE.

MENU.

Caviar frais — Blinis.

Royal Natives.

Tortue Claire.

Rossolnick.

Stipreme de Sole Marie Stuart.

Barquette de Laitance Meuniere.

Filet de Poulet au Beurre Noisette.

Caur d'artichaut aux Truffes.

Selle de Veau Braisie.

Purie de Chataignes — Poinmes Nana.

Motisse d' Ecrevisse ati Champagne.

Punch Sicilien.

Bicassine h la Broche.

Salade Lorette.

Asferges Vertes.

Pat4 de Foie Gras.

Biscuit Glcui aux Violettes.

Mille-Feuilles.

Diablotins.

Corbeille de Fruits.

VI NS.

Berncastler Doctor, 1893.

Veuve Clicquot- Ponsardin, 1892.

Chdteau Mouton- Rothschild.

Grand Vin Mise du Chdteau, 1878.

Grandes Liqueurs — Cafi.

Carlton Hotel and Restaurant,
London,
19/A October^ 1905.

NEW YEARS' EVE DINNER.

MENU.

Caviar de Sterlet.

Royal Natives.

Tortue claire.

Velouti R^gina.

Stiprtme de Sole Clarence.

Poularde Alexandra.

Morilles des Alpes.

Mignonnette d'agneau ci I'Ecossaise.

Potnmes Parisienne.

Cr^me de haricots verts.

Souffle d' Ecrevisse Moscovite.

Mandarines givries.

Caille aux truffes.

Salade d' Endive et Cileri.

Asperges de France.

Parfait de Foie gras.

Plum pudding h la fine Champagne.

Mousse glade Aurore 1906.

Friandises.

Fruits.

21st December, 1905.

CHRISTMAS DINNER.

MENU.

Cr^pe aux csufs de Sterlet.

Consommi Santa-Maria,

Velouti aux Paillettes dories.

Paupiette de Sole sous la cendre.

Caille i> r Orientate.

feune Chevreuil aux Cerises.

Creme de Marrons.

Supreme de Foie gras au Champagne.

Neige aux Perles des Alpes.

Chapon cucompagni d^ Ortolans Ste.

Alliance.

Salade Nazareth.

Asperges de France.

Le plum pudding des Rois Mages.

L'Etoile du Berger.

Binidictins Blancs.

z^tk December, 1905.

MENUS

843

GARDEN PARTY.

LUNCHEON.

Melon CatUaloup Glad.

Consonimi froid Madriline.
Consomin(de Volatile chaud.

Truite a'Ecosse A la Vinitienne.
CEuf Glaci aujambon.

Noisette d'Agneau a FEstragon.
Petits pais Bonne Femme.
Poutets nouveaux Mireille.

BUFFET FROID.

Filet de Bceuf PHntaniire.

Chaudfroid de Caille h I' Alsacienne.

Galantine de Volaille aux Truffes.

Supreme de Caneton aux Cerises,

Caurs de Romaine.

Pkhe Melba,

Glace Napolitaine,

Biscuit Mousseline.

Petits-Fours,

Savarin au Kirsch.

Panier de Nectarines^ Raisin, Fraises.

VINS.

Brauneberger, 1900.

Hock Cup.

Champagne Cup.

Bouquet fits, extra dry, 1892.

Perrier /ouet, extra dry, 1898.

Grande Fine-Champagne.

Grandes Liqueurs.

Cafi Double.

Hampton-on-Thames,

ixst July, 1906.

844 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

visiTE DU pr:6sident loubet.

SOUPER

donn^ au

CARLTON HOTEI, RESTAURANT,

le 7 Juillet, 1903,

apres la soirde de gala k I'Op^ra.

Consommi en Tasse.

Filet de sole Alexandra.

Cdtelette d'agneati au beiirre noisette.

Petits pais Anglaise.

Caille glacee a la Toiilousaine.

Supreme de volaille Jeannette,

Mousse d^ Ecrevisses.

Salade Mignonne.

Piches et Praises Ste. Alliance.

Priandises.

SUPPER MENU.

VelouU Ecossaise.

Filet de sole Meuniere.

CStelette d'Agneau Marichale.

Pointes d'Asperges a la Crime.

Mignonnette de Poulet glade au Paprika.

Buffet Froid.

Salade Lorette.

Piche Melba.

Priandises.

Carlton Hotel,
iiM October, 1906.

SUPPER MENU.

Caviar frais.

Royal Natives.

Consommi Madrilhie.

Paupiette de Sole Orientate.

Cdtelette de volaille (J la Mariehale.

Pointes d''asperges.

Noisette d'agneau Rachel.

Caille au raisin.

Parfait defoie gras.

Plche Alice.

Priandises.

SUPPER MENU.

Natives.

Consommi de Volaille.

Pilet de Sole Amiricaine.

Cdtelette d'agneau grilUe.

Concombres h la crime.

Mousse dejambon au blatic de poulet.

Parfait defoie gras.

Perdreau Pirigourdine.

Salade Rachel.

Macidoine de fruit glacie.

priandises.

MENUS 845

Example of a Fancy SUPPER MENU.

Caviar de Sterlet.

Crepes Moscovite.

Consommi aux Pommes (PA vwttr.

Sylphides ci la crime d'Mcrevisses.

Mignonnette de poulet Petit -Due.

Velouti Favori.

Cailles dodues escorties d' Ortolans.

Nymphes roses — Disirs de Mascotte.

Pointes d'Asperges <J I'huile Vierge.

Charmes de Vinus voilis i V Orientate.

Plaisirs des Dames.

Eioiles Filantes — Frivolith,

VINS.

Zeltinger Schlossberg, 1897.
Bollinger, Extra Dry, 1898.

Carlton Hotel,

Saturday, 6th October, igo6.

MENU.

Hors-d^ aeuvre Moscovite.

Melon Cantaloup.

Tortue claire.

Velouti aux Pommes d' Amour.

Paupiette de sole i I'Ancienne.

Timbale de Pis de Veau Toulousaine.

Poularde Rose Marie.

Selle d'Agneau aux laitues h la Grecque.

Petits pais d I'Anglaise.

Punch glad.

Caille en cocotte,

Salade Romaine.

Asperges (P Argenteuil.

Terrine de Canard Rouennaise.

Bombe Niro.

Friandises.

Diablotins.

Fruits.

13M June, 1906.

846

GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

MENU.

Hors-d auvre Moscovite.

Melon Cantaloup,

Consommf froid Madrilene.

Tortile claire.

Triiite d'Ecosse ati Vin du Rhin.

Mignonnette de Sole.

Filet de poulet Alexandra.

Concombres au Paprika.

Selle de Chevreuil ll la Bohlmienne.

Supreme d' Ecrevisse an Clicquot.

Neige aux Perles des Alpes.

Caille au raisin.

Salade d'Asperges vertes.

Aubergine au gratin.

Biscuit glad Orientale.

Marcelin Anisette.

Diablotins.

Corbeille de Pkhes et Nectarines.

28M June^ 1906.

MENU.

Hors-cT csuvre.

Huttres au raifort.

Poutargue ae Gines.

Figues fratches.

Cocky Leekie.

Velouti aux fleurs de courgette.

Truite au blett.

Nonats de la Miditerranle au Fenouil.

Poularde h VAurore.

Selle de Chevreuil h la Bohimienne.

Pommes aigrelettes A la gelie de groSeille.

Suprlmes d' Ecrevisse au Champagne.

Pastique en Sorbet.

Perdreau aux raisins.

Salade Criole.

Cceur d'artichaut Petit-Due.

Mousse Favorite.

Dilices au Caramel.

Piches Rase Chirie.

MENU.

Hors-a'ceuvre.
Caviar frais — Cr^pe Moscovite.

Nymphes roses.

Cotisommi defaisan au cileri.

Bisque d' Oursin.

Mousseline de Lavaret au Vin de Savoie.

Mignonnette de Sole aupoivre noir.

Salmi de perdreau h Vancien-ne mode.

Selle d'ag7ieau A V Orientale.

Aubergine h la Grecque.

Crhne de pifnent au blanc de poulet.

Coupe givrie au Stic de grenade.

Caille de vigne au vert-jus.

Salade des Capucins.

SoufflS de pomme A la Chantilly.

Parfait glad aux Avelines.

Mignardises.

Paillettes DiabUes.

Corbeille de fruits.

MENU.

Hors-d' ceuvre Moscovite.

Natives.
Consommi Marie Stuart.

Chicken Okra.

Timbale de Sole Orientale.

Poularde Favorite.

Concombre au beurre.

Baron d'agneau de lait,

Riz A la Grecque.

Laitues braisies.

Bicasse au fumet.

Salade d'asperges et d'artichauts.

Parfait defoie gras.

Biscuit glaci Alice,

Mille-feuilles.

Fruits.

^3tlt December, igo6.

MENUS

847

MENU.

Hors-(Cceuvre i la Russe.

Caviar frais — Blinis.

Tertue claire.

Velaut:! tie volailU an Paprika.

Paupiette de sole an vin de Moselle.

Barquette de Laitance Florentine.

Filet de poiUet an beurre noisette.

Riz pilaw atix Piments verts.

Selle de Chevreuil Bohimienne.

Pommes aigrelettes aux Cerises.

Mousse d'Ecrevisse A la Moscovite.

Sorbet aux Perles des Alpes.

Supreme de perdreau Souvaroff.

Ortolans an Clicquot.

Asperges nouvelles.

Pdti defoie s^ras.

Bombe Alaska.

Mignardises.

Paillettes Diablies.

Poires, Phhes, Raisins Muscat.

nth September, 1906.

MENU.

Frivolitis Moscovite.

Consomvii (J la moelle d'esturgeon.

Velout4 de volaille aux Pommes d^ Amour.

Sylphides d. la crime d' Ecrevisse.

Filet de Perdreau au Chambertin.

Purie de marrons.

Jambon de Prague au Paprika rose.

Souffli aux asperges vertes.

Caille Hilda.

Cornrs de Laitties.

Supreme defoie gras.

Belles de Nuit.

Mignardises.

■jth Nffvevther, 1906.

SUPPER MENU.

Frivolity.

Consommi aux Pommes d' Amour.

Mousseline de volaille aux nids d'hiron-
delle.

Suprlme d' Ecrevisse d la Crime de pivient. ■

Mignonnette de Poulet Petit-Due.

Nymphes roses.

Disirs de Mascotte.

Sylphide dejeunes pigeons.

Ortolans pochis au Clicquot.

Truffes sous la cendre.

Delices defoie gras au Vin de Moselle.

Asperges h I'Huile vierge.

Charmes de Vinus voilis d. V Orientate.

Belles de Nuit.

Huttres perliires en surprise.

Les plaisirs de Dame.

Friandises.

Treilles de raisin Mttscat.

CHRISTMAS DINNER.

Natives.

Caviar frais.

Tortue claire.

Velouti de Poulet au lait d'Amande.

Suprime de Sole h la Sainaritaine.

Dindonneau du Pirigord.

Crime de Marrons.

Noisettes d'agneau A la moelle.

Pointes d' Asperges au beurre.

Caille au raisin.

Salade Nazareth.

Parfait de foie gras.

Plum Pudding aux feuxfollets.

Mandarines givries.

Gdteau des Trois Rois.

Friandises.

•zt^th December, igo6.

848 GUIDE TO MODERN COOKERY

CHRISTMAS MENU,

Frivolity.

Caviar frais — Blinis de Sarrasin.

Oursins de la Miditerranie.

Natives au Raifart.

Les Dilices de St. Antoine.

Tortue Verte.

Velouti de Poulet aux nids d' hironaelle.

Sterlet du Volga ^ la Moscovite.

Barqiiette de Laitance h la Vinitienne.

Chaponfin aux Perks du Pirigord.

Caraon ipi^uux d. la Toulousaine.

Selle de Venaison aux Cerises.

Crime de inarron'..

Jeune agneau piqui de sauge h la Proveiifole.

Sylphides de Roitelets.

Gelie de Poinmes d' Amour aux Ecrevisses.

Fine Champagne 1820.

Mandarines givrhs.

Cailles sous la cendre aux raisins.

Bhassines rosiSes aufeu de sarments.

Salade Isabelle.

Asperges de France.

Foie gras pochi au Vin de Moselle.

BAche de Noel en Surprise.

Plum Pudding— Mince Pie.

Mignardises aux violettes.

Etoile du Berger.

Fruits de Serre chaude.

CafS Turc.

JCnias, 1906.

INDEX

INDEX

V. gl. =see glossary.

No. of
Recipe

1755 Aiguillettes (v. gl.) of Rouen duck

bigarrade, 558

1756 Aiguillettes of Rouen duck, with

cherries, 558

1757 Aiguillettes of Rouen Duck, with

truffles, 558
1768 Aiguillettes of duckling, k I'ecarlate

(o. gl.), 562
1583a Ailerons (v. gl.) of chicken, 507

1703 Ailerons of chicken, k la Carmelite,

537

1704 Ailerons of chicken, Lady Wilmer,

S37
1722 Ailerons of young turkey, gilded,

with chestnut pur^e, 545
2299 Allumettes (v. gl.), 678

300 Allumettes, with anchovies, 142
Almonds. See Elementary Prepara-
tions of Pastry, 687

173 Anchovies, fillets of, 70

301 Anchovies, fillets of, 142

302 Anchovies, fresh, marinaded, 142

303 Anchovies, rolled, 142

301 Anchovies, medallions of, 142

305 Anchovies, paupiettes, 143

306 Anchovies, with pimentos, 144

307 Anchovies, Norwegian or Kilkis,

144
754 Anchovies, fresh, 261
2317 Angels on horseback, 682

174 Anglaise, for eggs and bread-crumb-

ing (v. gl.), 70

2588 Apple fritters, 751

2589 Apples, with butter, 751

2590 Apples, Bonne femme, 751

2591 Apples, Bourdaloue, 751

2436 Apples, charlotte of, 720

2437 Apples, charlotte of, Emile Giret,

720

2593 Apples, i la Chatelaine, 752

2594 Apples, a la Chevreuse, 753

2595 Apples, a la Conde, 752

2596 Apples, gratined (v. gl.), 752

2597 Apples, meringued (v. gl.), 752

2598 Apples, Moscovite, 752

No. of
Recipe

2599 Apples, Parisian style, 753

2600 Apples, Portuguese style, 753

2601 Apples, Rabofte or Norman Douillon,

753
2G02 Apples, Ir^ne, 753

2603 Apple flawn, k la Ninon (hot), 753

2604 Apple flawn, a la Bateliere, 754
2719 Apples, k la Royale, 782

2548 Apricots, 743

2549 Apricots k la Bourdaloue, 743

2550 Apricots k la Colbert, 744

2551 Apricots a la Cond^, 744

2552 Apricots a la Conde (another

method), 744

2553 Apricots a la Cussy, 744

2554 Apricots, gratined, 744

2555 Apricots, meringued, 745

2556 Apricots, meringued (another

method), 745

2557 Apricots, Sultana, 745

2666 Apricots, Parisian style, 77'

2667 Apricots a la Royale, 77 1
174a Aromatics, 71

2028 Artichokes, Barigoule, 624

2029 Artichoke hearts, k la Clamart, 624

2030 Artichokes, with various sauces, 624

2031 Artichokes a la Proven9ale, 625

2032 Artichokes, quartered, Italian style,

625

2033 Artichoke bottoms, stuffed, 625

2034 Artichoke bottoms, stuffed, a la

Florentine, 626

2035 Artichoke bottoms, with sprew, 626

2036 Artichoke bottoms, saut6d {v. vl.),

626
313 Artichoke bottoms, small, 144
312 Artichokes, Grecian style, 144

2271 Artichokes, Jerusalem, English style,

670

2272 Artichokes, fried, 670

2038 Asparagus, 627

2039 Asparagus, Flemish style, 627

2040 Asparagus, gratined, 627

2041 Asparagus, Milanese style, 627

2042 Asparagus, Polish style, 628

2043 Asparagus, with various sauces, 628

3 I 2

852

INDEX

No. of
Recipe

2044 Asparagus tops, with butter, 628

2045 Asparagus tops, with cream, 628
Aspics or savoury jellies, 59

158 Aspic, ordinary, 59

159 Aspic of chicken, 61

160 Aspic of game, 61

161 Aspic offish, with white wine, 61

162 Aspic of fish, with red wine, 62

1705 Aspic of chicken, Italian style, 537

1706 Aspic k la Gauloise, 538
1735 Aspic of fat liver, 551

Aubergine. See Egg Plants.

B.

252 Bacon, larding, for roasts, 116
1654 Ballotines and jambonneaux, 523
1754 liallotine of duckUng, 557

2561 Bananas, a la Bourdaloue, 745

2562 Bananas, a la Conde, 746

2563 Hananas, meringued, 746

2564 Bananas, Norwegian style, 746

2565 Bananas, souffled {v. gl.), 746

314 Barquettes (see also Nos. 387 and

2327 to 2334), 144
987 Bass, 335

231 Batter, for various fritters, 95

232 Batter, for vegetables, 96

233 Batter, for fruit and flower fritters,

96

234 Batter, for fritters of oven-glazed fruit,

96

2614 Bavarois, preparation for bavarois

with cream, 757

2615 Bavarois, preparation for bavarois

with fruit, 757

2616 Bavarois, the moulding of bavarois,

757

2617 Bavarois, Clermont, 758

2618 Bavarois, Diplomate, 758

2619 Bavarois, My Queen, 758

2620 Bavarois, Religieuse, 758

2621 Bavarois, rubanne, 758

2622 Bavarois, various, with cream, 759

2623 Bavarois, various, with fruits, 7S9
2934 Bavaroise, 816

Beans, 649

2143 Broad beans, 648

2144 Broad beans, with butter, 648
2146 Broad beans, with cream, 648

2157 Beans, French, 650

2158 Beans, panaches, 650

2155 Beans, green, or flageolets, 649

2156 Beans, red, 650

2151 Beans, haricot, or Lima beans, 649

2152 Beans, haricot, with butter, 649

2153 Beans, haricot, k la Bretonne, 649
315 Beef, smoked Hambourg, 145

1145 Beef, braised pieces of, 379

1146 Beef, braised pieces of, Burgundian

style, 379

1147 Beef, braised pieces of, a la cuiller,

379

No. of
Recipe

1148 Beef, braised pieces of, Flemish

style, 380

1149 Beef, braised pieces of, & la mode

(hot), 381

1150 Beef, braised pieces of, k la mode

(cold), 381

1151 Beef, braised pieces of, k la Noailles,

382
Beefsteak. See Steaks.
1165 Beef, salted (hot), 386

1167 Beef, salted (cold), 3t>7

1168 Beef, salted, pressed, 387

1175 Beef, salted, minced, 390

1176 Beef, Miroton, 390

1178 Beef, hashed, American style, 391

1179 Beef, hashed, Parmentier, 391
2301 Beurrecks, 679

Biscuits (Iced). See Ices.
2720 Biscuits, a la Reine, 782
2935 Bishop, 816

Bisques. See Thick Soups : Nos.

241 and 662 to 664.
Blackbirds (Corsican). See

Thrushes.
273 Blanchings, 129

2624 Blanc-mange, 759

2625 Blanc-mange, French style, 759

2626 Blanc-mange, with fruit or liqueurs,

760

2627 Blanc-mange, rubanne, 760

2628 Blanc-mange, English style, 760
989 Bloaters, 335

1809 Boar and Young Boar, 572

2826 Bombes — Generic recipe, 802

2827 Bombes (preparation for), 802

2828 Bombes (the moulding of), 802

2829 Bombe Aboukir, 803

2830 Bombe Africaine, 803

2831 Bombe Abricotine, 803

2832 Bombe Aida, 803

2833 Bombe Alm^ria, 803

2834 Bombe Alhambra, 803

2835 Bombe Americaine, 803

2836 Bombe Andalouse, 80^

2837 Bombe Batavia, 803

2838 Bombe Bourdaloue, 803

2839 Bombe Bresilienne, 803

2840 Bombe Camargo, 804

2841 Bombe Cardinal, 804

2842 Bombe Ceylan, 804

2843 Bombe Chateaubriand, 804

2844 Bombe Clarence, 804

2845 Bombe Colombia, 804

2846 Bombe Coppelia, 804

2847 Bombe Czarine, 804

2848 Bombe Dame Blanche, 804

2849 Bombe Danicheff, 804

2850 Bombe Diable Rose, 804

2851 Bombe Diplomate, 804

2852 Bombe Duchesse, 805

2853 Bombe Fanchon, 805

2854 Bombe Fedora, 805

2855 Bombe Florentine, 805

2856 Bombe Formosa, 805

2857 Bombe Francillon, 805

INDEX

853

No. of
Recipe

2858 Bombe Frou-Frou, 805

2859 Bombe Grande-Duchesse, 805

2860 Bombe Gismonda, 805

2861 Bombe Havanaise, 805

2862 Bombe Hilda, 805

2863 Bombe Ilollandaise, 805

2864 Bombe Jaffa, 805

2865 Bombe Japonaise, 806

2866 Bombe Jeanne d'Arc, 806

2867 Bombe Josephine, 806

2868 Bombe Madeleine, 806

2869 Bombe Maltalse, 806

2870 Bombe Marechale, 806

2871 Bombe Margot, 806

2872 Bombe Marie-Louise, 806

2873 Bombe Marquise, 806

2874 Bombe Mascotte, 806

2875 Bombe Mathilde, 806

2876 Bombe Medicis, 806

2877 Bombe Mercedes, 807

2878 Bombe Mignon, 807

2879 Bombe Miss Helyett, 807

2880 Bombe Mogador, 807

2881 Bombe Moldave, 807

2882 Bombe Montmorency, 807

2883 Bombe Moscovite, 807

2884 Bombe Mousseline, 807

2885 Bombe Nabab, 807

2886 Bombe Nelusko, S07

2887 Bombe Nero, 807

2888 Bombe Saint Laud, 808

2889 Bombe Nesselrode, 808

2890 Bombe Odette, 808

2891 Bombe Odessa, 808

2892 Bombe Orientale, 808

2893 Bombe Patricienne, 808

2894 Bombe Petit-Due, 808

2895 Bombe Pompadour, 808

2896 Bombe Prophete, 808

2897 Bombe Riclielieu, 808

2898 Bombe Rosette, 808

2899 Bombe Royale, 808

2900 Bombe Santiago, S09

2901 Bombe Selilia, 809

2902 Bombe Skobeleff, 809

2903 Bombe Strogoff, 809

2904 Bombe Succes, 809

2905 Bombe Sultane, 809

2906 Bombe Suzanne, 809

2907 Bombe Tortoni, 809

2908 Bombe Tosca, 809

2909 Bombe Trocadero, 809

2910 Bombe Tutti-frutti, 809

2911 Bombe Valenyay, 809

2912 Bombe Venitienne, 810

2913 Bombe Victoria, 810

2914 Bombe Zamora, 810
2321 Bones, grilled, 681

2391 Bouch^es (to make small patties,
crusts, or bouchees), 705

1405 Boudin, white, ordinary, 461

1406 Boudin, white, of chicken, 461

1407 Boudin, black, 461

1408 Boudin, black, English style, 462

1409 Boudin, black, Flemish style, 462

No. of
Recipe

1655 Boudin of chicken, a la Richelieu, 523

1656 Boudin of chicken, a la Soubise, 524
1089 Bouillabaisse, 350

Bowls or Coupes, 797

2796 Bowl or Coupe d'Antigny, 797

2797 Bowl or Coupe Clo-Clo, 798

2798 Bowl or Coupe Dame Blanche,

798

2799 Bowl or Coupe Denise, 798

2800 Bowl or Coupe Edna May, 798

2801 Bowl or Coupe Elizabeth, 798

2802 Bowl or Coupe Emma Calve, 798

2803 Bowl or Coupe Eugenie, 798

2804 Bowl or Coupe k la favorite, 799

2805 Bowl or Coupe Germaine, 799

2806 Bowl or Coupe Gressac, 799

2807 Bowl or Coupe Jacques, 799

2808 Bowl or Coupe Malmais.jn, 799

2809 Bowl or Coupe Mexicaine, 799

2810 Bowl or Coupe Mireille, 799

2811 Bowl or Coupe Petit-Due, 799

2812 Bowl or Coupe Reve de Bebe, 799

2813 Bowl or Coupe Madame Sans-

Gene, 860

2814 Bowl or Coupe Tutti-frutti, 860

2815 Bowl or Coupe Venus, 860

1288 Brains (calfs brains and spine-

marrow), 428

1289 Brains, cooking of, 428

1290 Brains, k la Beaumont, 429

1291 Brains, with brown butter, 429

1292 Brains, hazel-nut butter, 429

1293 Brains, a la Marechale, 429

1294 Brains, a la Poulette, 430

1295 Brains, a la Villeroy, 430
329c Brains, k la Robert, 149

247 Braisings, ordinary, 104

248 Braisings, of white meat, no
184 Bread-crumbs, 75

988 Brill, 335

172 Brine or Saumure, 68
2108 Brocoli, 642
2107 Brocoli (leaves of), 641

2115 Brussels Sprouts, English style, 643

2116 Brussels Sprouts, with cream, 643

2117 Brussels Sprouts, sauted, 643

2118 Brussels Sprouts, with butter, 643
2632 Bucket and basket Chantilly, 761

Butters (compound, for sauces), 53

139 Butter, Bercy, 54,

140 Butter, Chateaubriand, 54
140a Butter, Chivry, 54

141 Butter, Colbert, 54
175 Butter, Clarified, 72

142 Butter, red colouring, 55

143 Butter, green colouring, 55

145 Butter, Shrimps, 55

146 Butter, Shallots, 56

147 Butter, Cray fish, 56

148 Butter, Tarragon, 56

149 Butter, Lobster, 56

150 Butter, Maitre d'hotel, 56

151 Butter, manied {v. g!.), 56
151a Butter, melted, 57

152 Butter, i la Meuniere, 57

854

INDEX

No. of
Recipe

153 Butter, Montpellier, 57

154 Butter, brown, 58

155 Butter, hazel-nut, 58

156 Butter, Pistachio, 58

157 Butter, Printanier, 58

280 Butter (compound butters and

creams for hors-d'oeuvres and
various uses), 139

281 Butter, Anchovy, 139

282 Butter, Caviare, 139

283 Butter, Shrimp, 139

284 Butter, Curry, 139

285 Butter, Cray fish, 140

286 Butter, Red -herring, 140

287 Butter, Lobster, 140

288 Butter, Milt, 140

289 Butter, Montpellier, 140

290 Butter, Horse-radish, 140

291 Butter, Smoked-Salmon, 140

292 Butter, Paprika, 140

293 Butter, Pimentos, 141

2340 Butters, various, used in pastry v.ork,
688

2095 Cabbages, 638

2096 Cabbages, white, 639

2098 Cabbages, red, Flemish style, 639

2099 Cabbages, red. Marinaded, for hors-

d'oeuvres, 640

2100 Cabbages, Savoy or Green, 640

2101 Cabbages, Savoy or Green, English

style, 640

2102 Cabbages, Savoy or Green, stuffed,

640

2103 Cabbages, Savoy or Green, sou-

fassum, 641

2104 Cabbages, Savoy or Green, for

garnish A, 641

2105 Cabbages, Savoy or Green, for

garnish B, 641
210G Cabbages, Savoy or Green, for

garnish C, 641
2107 Cabbages, Spring, 641
2311 Cakes (Cond^, with cheese), 641

1286 Calves' Feet, 428

1209 Calfs Head, 404

1210 Calfs Head, English style, 404

1211 Calfs Head, a la Financiere, 404

1212 Calfs Head, a la Poulette, 405

1213 Calfs Head, in Turtle, 405

1214 Calfs Head, Vinaigrette, or with oil,

405

1287 Calfs tongue, 428
2303 Camembert, fried, 679

316 Canapes and toast, 145 and 679
1659 Capilotade of Chicken, 524

1443 Capons and Pullets for removes, 473

1444 Suggested quick service for removes

of poultry, 474

1445 Capon, Albufera, 476

1446 Capon, Alexandra, 476

1447 Capon, Ambassadrice, 476

No. of
Recipe

1448 Capon, Andalouse, 477

1449 Capon, English style, 477

1450 Capon, Aurora, 477

1451 Capon, Beaufort, 477

1452 Capon, boiled, English style, 477
14,^3 Capon, with celery, 477

1454 Capon, with brown mushroom sauce,

478

1455 Capons, with white mushroom sauce,

478^

1456 Capon a la Chanoinesse, 478

1457 Capon a la Chatelaine, 478

1458 Capon a la Chevaliere, 478

1459 Capon a la Chimay, 477

1460 Capon a la Chipolata, 477

1461 Capon a la Chivry, 477

1462 Capon a la Cussy, 480

1463 Capon, Demi-Ueuil, 480

1464 Capon, Demidoff, 480

1465 Capon, Derby, 480

1466 Capon, Diva, 480

1467 Capon, Devonshire, 481

1468 Capon, Scottish style, 481

1469 Capon, Edward VII., 481

1470 Capon in Estouffade, 482

1471 Capon with Tarragon, 4S2

1472 Capon a la Favorite, 482

1473 Capon k la Fermiere, 482

1474 Capon a la Financiere, 482

1475 Capon Gastronome, 483

1476 Capon a la Godard, 483

1477 Capon a la Grammont, 483

1478 Capon or pullet. Grand Hotel

483

1479 Capon or pullet, with salt, 484

1480 Capon or pullet, Grecian style,

484

1481 Capon or pullet, Hungarian style,

484

1482 Capon or pullet with oysters, 484

1483 Capon or pullet Indian style, 484

1484 Capon or pullet, Isabelle de

France, 484

1485 Capon or pullet a I'lvoire, 485

1486 Capon or pullet. Lady Curzon,

485

1487 Capon or pullel, Louise d'Orleans,

485

1488 Capon or pullet, Louisiane, 485

1489 Capon or pullet, Lucullus, 485

1490 Capon or pullet, Mancini, 486

1491 Capon or pullet, Marguerite de

Savoie, 486

1492 Capon or pullet, a la Menagere,

486

1493 Capon or pullet, Mireille, 487
1404 Capon or pullet, Montbazon, 487

1495 Capon or pullet, Monte Carlo,

487

1496 Capon or pullet, Montmorency,

487

1497 Capon or pullet, Nantua, 487

1498 Capon or pullet a I'Orientale, 487

1499 Capon or pullet with golden eggs,

480

INDEX

855

No. of
Recipe

1500 Capon or pullet, Parisian style,

488

1501 Capon or pullet, Adelina Patti,

488

1502 Capon or pullet, Paysanne, 488

1503 Capon or pullet, P^rigord, 489

1504 Capon or pullet. Little Bride, 489

1505 Capon or pullet, Pi^montaise, 489

1506 Capon or pullet, Portugaise, 489

1507 Capon or pullet. Princess, 489

1508 Capon or pullet. Princess Helen,

489

1509 Capon or pullet. Regency, 490

1510 Capon or pullet, Queen Anne, 490

1511 Capon or pullet. Queen Margot,

490

1512 Capon or pullet. Queen Margaret,

490

1513 Capon or pullet, with rice, 491

1514 Capon or pullet, Rossini, 491

1515 Capon or pullet, Sainte-Alliance,

491

1516 Capon or pullet, Santa-Lucia, 492

1517 Capon or pullet, Sicilian style, 492

1518 Capon or pullet. Souffle, 492

1519 Capon or pullet, Stanley, 493

1520 Capon or pullet, Souvaroff, 493

1521 Capon or pullet, Sylvana, 493

1522 Capon or pullet, Talleyrand, 494

1523 Capon or pullet, Tosca, 494

1524 Capon or pullet, Toulousaine, 494

1525 Capon or pullet, Trianon, 494

1526 Capon or pullet, Valenciennes,

495

1527 Capon or pullet, Vert-pre, 495

1528 Capon or pullet, Vichy, 495

1529 Capon or pullet, Victoria, 495

1530 Capon or pullet, Washington,

495

1531 Capon, fine, with Perigord pearls, 495
Capon or pullet, cold, 53 1

1687 Capon or pullet, cold, a la Car-

melite, 531

1688 Capon or pullet, cold, with cham-

pagne, 532

1694 Capon or pullet, cold, a la Dam-

pierre, 534

1689 Capon or pullet, cold, en Chaud-

froid (see also Chaudfroid), 532

1695 Capon or pullet, cold, k I'^carlate,

534

1696 Capon or pullet, cold, Lambertye,

535

1697 Capon or pullet, cold, a la Neva,

535

1698 Capon or pullet, cold, Rose-de-Mai,

535

1699 Capon or pullet, cold, Rose-Marie,

535

1700 Capon or pullet, cold, Saint-Cyr-

536

1701 Capon or pullet, cold, in terrine,

with aspic, 536

1702 Capon or pullet, cold, in terrine

for preserves, 537

No. of
Recipe

1707 Capon or pullet, cold (medallions
of), Rachel, 538

1955 Capon or pullet, roast, 609

1956 Capon or pullet, roast, truffled,

609
375 Capsicum, mild, grilled, 158
1174 Carbonades, Flemish style, 389
2309 Carcass of chicken, 680

2052 Cardoons, 630

2053 Cardoons with parmesan, 630

2054 Cardoons, Mornay, 630

2055 Cardoons, Milanaise, 630

2056 Cardoons with various sauces, 630

2057 Cardoons with marrow, 630

2058 Cardoons, heart of, with herbs,

631

325 Carolines, various, 147
757 Carp, 261

996 Carp's milt, 337

997 Carp's milt, a la Menniere, 337

998 Carp's milts, barquette of, k la Floren-

tine, 337

999 Carp's milt, caisse of, a la Nantua,

338

2059 Carrots, glazed for garnish, 631

2060 Carrots with cream, 631

2061 Carrots a la Vichy, 631

2063 Carrot flawn with carrots, 632

2062 Carrots, puree of, 631
1344 Cassoulet, 444

2108 Cauliflower and broccoli, 642

2109 Cauliflower or broccoli, with cream,

642

2110 Cauliflower or broccoli, gratined,

642

2111 Cauliflower or broccoli, Milanese

style, 642

2112 Cauliflower or broccoli, Polish style,

642

2113 Cauliflower or broccoli, with various

sauces, 642

326 Caviare and Blinis, 147
329 Celeriac, salad of, 148

Celery, 632

327 Celery a la bonne femme, 148

328 Celery a la Grecque, 148

2065 Celery, various preparations of,
632
Cepes, 633

2068 Cepes a la Bordelaise, 633

2069 Cepes with cream, 633

2070 Cepes, proven9ale, 633

2071 Cepes a la Rossini, 633
329a Cepes marinaded, 148

1034 Char, 347

1035 Char, potted, 347

2436 Charlotte of apples, 720

2437 Charlotte of apples, Emile Giret,

721

2438 Charlottes, various, 721

2629 Charlotte, Arlequine, 761

2630 Charlotte, Carmen, 761

2631 Charlotte, Chantilly, 761

2633 Charlotte, Montreuil, 762

2634 Charlotte, Opera, 762

856

INDEX

No. of
Recipe

2635 Charlotte, Plombi^re, 762

2636 Charlotte, Renaissance, 762

2637 Charlotte, Russe, 762
Chateaubriand See fillet of beef.

1689 Chaudfroid, of pullets, capons or

chickens, 532

1690 Chaudfroid of pullet, Scottish style,

533

1691 Chaudfroid of pullet, Felix Faure,

533

1692 Chaudfroid of pullet, Gounod, 533

1693 Chaudfroid of pullet, Rossini, 533

1853 Chaudfroid of pheasant, 587

1854 Chaudfroid of pheasant, a la Buloz,

587
1901 Chaudfroid of quail, in Bellevue,

599
329b Cherries, German style, 148

2566 Cherries, Jubilee, 747

2567 Cherries, Valeria, 747

2568 Cherry flawn, meringued, 747

2671 Cherries, Dubarry, 773

2672 Cherries with claret, 773
2939 Cherries, iced water, 817

2172 Chestnuts, 652

2173 Chestnuts, stewed, 652 ,

2174 Chestnuts, braised and glazed, 652
177 Chervil pluches {v. gl.) 73

Chickens and chicks —

1532 Sauted chicken, 495

1533 SautM chicken Archiduc, 497

1534 Sauted chicken Arlesienne, 497

1535 Sauted chicken Armagnac, 497

1536 Sauted chicken d'Artois, 498

1537 Sauted chicken Beaulieu, 498

1538 Sauted chicken k la Bordelaise,

498

1539 Sauted chicken, Boivin,498

1540 Sauted chicken, Bretonne, 499

1541 Sauted chicken, with Cepes, 499

1542 Sauted chicken, Champeaux, 499

1543 Sauted chicken, Hunter's style, 499

1544 Sauted chicken, Cynthia. 499

1545 Sauted chicken, Demidoff, 500
1646 Sauted chicken, Doria, 500

1547 Sauted chicken, Durand, 500

1548 Sauted chicken, Egyptian style,

SCO

1549 Sauted chicken, Spanish style, 500

1550 Sauted chicken, with Tarragon, 501

1551 Sauted chicken. Fedora, 501

1552 Sauted chicken, with Fennel, 501

1553 SautW chicken, Fermiere, 501

1554 Sauted chicken, with herbs, 502

1555 SautW chicken, Forestiere, 502

1556 S;iuted chicken, Gabrielle, 502

1557 Sauted chicken, Georgina, 502

1558 Sauted chicken, Hungarian style,

502

1559 Sauted chicken, Indian style, or

curried chicken, 503

1560 Sauted chicken, Japanese style, 503

1561 Sautad chicken, Jurassienne, 503

1562 Sauted chicken, Lathuile, 503

1563 Sauted chicken, Lyonnaise, 504

No. of
Recipe

1564 Sauted chicken, Marengo, 504

1565 Sauted chicken, Maryland, 504

1566 Sauted chicken, Marseillaise, 504

1567 Sauted chicken, Mexican style, 504

1568 Sauted chicken, Mireille, 505

1569 Sauted chicken, with Morels, 505

1570 Sauted chicken, Norman style, 505

1571 Sauted chicken, Parmentier, 505

1572 Sauted chicken, Pi^montaise, 505

1573 Sauted chicken, Portuguese style,

506

1574 Sauted chicken, Proven9ale, 506

1575 Sauted chicken, Stanley, 506

1576 Sauted chicken, with truffles, 506

1577 Sauted chicken. Van Dyck, 506

1578 Sauted chicken, Vichy, 507

1579 Sauted chicken, Verdi, 507

1623 Chicken, white of, Elizabeth, 515

1625 Chicken, minionnettes of, 516

1626 Chicken, nonnettes of, 516
1957 Chicken, roast, 610

Chicken, spring, 518

1630 Chicken, spring, a la belle Meuniere,

S18

1631 Chicken, spring, Shepherd's style,

518

1632 Chicken, spring. Bonne Femme,

518
Chicken, spring —

1633 Chicken, spring, in casserole, 519

1634 Chicken, spring, in cocotte, 519

1635 Chicken, spring, Clamart, 519

1636 Chicken, spring, devilled, 519

1637 Chicken, spring, in spatchcock, 519

1638 Chicken, spring, with artichoke-

bottoms, 520

1639 Chicken, spring, a I'hoteliere, 520

1640 Chicken, spring, Katoff, 520

1641 Chicken, spring, a la Limousine,

520

1642 Chicken, spring, Mascotte, 520

1643 Chicken, spring, with morels, 521

1644 Chicken, spring, Souvaroff, 521

1645 Chicken, spring, Tartar style, 521

1957 Chicken, spring, roast, 610

1958 Chicken, spring, roast, \ la Russe,

610
Chicken, turbot. See Turbot.
Chicks —

1646 Chicks, Cinderella, 521

1647 Chicks i la Piemontaise, 521

1648 Chicks, Polish style, 521

1649 Chicks, Tartar style, 522

1650 Chicks, tourte of, a la paysanne,

522

1651 Chicks, Vienna style, 522

1959 Chicks, roast, 610
1660 Chicken pie, 524

1667 Chicken, fricassee of, a I'ancienne,

.527

1668 Chicken, fricassee of, with crayfish,

528

2088 Chicory or endives, 637

2089 Chicory, with cream, 637
2093 Chicory, Flemish style, 638

INDEX

857

No. of
Recipe
2094 Chicory, Belgian, 638

215 Chiffonnade, 89
2302 Choux, with cheese, 679
2087 Chow-chow, or Brionne, 637

Civet. See Jugged Hare, Roebuck,
&c.
2951 Claret Cup, 819

990 Cod, boiled, 335

991 Cod, broiled, 336

992 Cod, fried, 336

993 Cod, creme gratin, 336

994 Cod, Flemish style, 336

995 Cod, Portuguese style, 336

1661 Cocks' combs and kidneys, 525

1662 Cocks' combs, a la Grecque, 525

1663 Desirs de Mascotte, 526

1664 Cocks' kidneys stuffed, for garnishing

of cold entrees, 526
1215 CoUops of Veal, 405
2374 Common cream cake, 701

Compound Butters. See Butters,
No. 281, &c.
2311 Condes with cheese, 681
174b Condiments and seasoning, 71
Consommes^

1 Consomm^, ordinary or white, 2

2 Consomme, clarified, 5

3 Consomme, chicken, 6

4 Consomm^, fish, 6

5 Consomm^, game, 7

6 Consomme, special, for suppers, 8
237 Consomme, clear, 98

244 Consomm^, thickened, 102
539 Consomme Alexandra, 198
640 Consomm^ Ambassadrice, 198

541 Consomme Andalouse, 198

542 Consomme d'Aremberg, 198

543 Consomme Bohemienne, 199

544 Consomme Boieldieu, 199

545 Consomme Bouqueti^re, 199

546 Consomme Bourdaloue, 200

547 Consomm^ Bortsch, 200

548 Consomme Brunoise, 200

549 Consomme Carmen, 20i

550 Consomme Castellane, 201

551 Consomme Celestine, 201

552 Consomm^ Chartreuse, 202

553 Consomm^ with angel's hair, 202

554 Consomme h. la Colbert, 202

555 Consomme Colombine, 202

556 Consomm^ Croute-au-pot, 203

557 Consomme Cyrano, 203

558 Consomm^ Demidoff, 203

559 Consomme Deslignac, 203

560 Consommd Diablotins, 204

561 Consomm^ Diplomate, 204

562 Consomme Divette, 204

563 Consomme Doria, 204

564 Consomm^ Douglas, 205

565 Consomme Ecossaise, 205

566 Consomme Favorite, 205
566aConsomme Fermiere, 205

567 Consomme Florentine, 206

568 Consomme Gauloise, 206

569 Consomme George Sand, 206

No. of
Recipe

570 Consomme Germaine, 207

571 Consomme Girondine, 207

572 Consomm^ Grimaldi, 207

573 Consommi Imperiale, 207

574 Consomme a I'Indienne, 208

575 Consomm^ a I'lnfante, 208

576 Consomme Jacqueline, 208
576aConsomm^ Julienne, 208

577 Consomme Lorette, 209

578 Consomm^ Macdonald, 209

579 Consomme Marguerite, 209

580 Consomm^ Marquise, 210

581 Consomm^ Mercedes, 210

582 Consomme Messaline, 210

583 Consomme Metternich, 210

584 Consomm^ Milanaise, 210

585 Consomm^ Mireille, 211

586 Consomm^ Mirette, 211

587 Consomm^ Monte-Carlo, 211

588 Consomm^ Montmorency, 212

589 Consomme Moscovite, 212

590 Consomme Nesselrode, 212

591 Consomme Swallows' Nests, 212

592 Consomme with warblers' eggs, 213

593 Consomm^ Olga, 213

594 Consomme d'Orl^ans, 213

595 Consomme d'Orsay, 213 '

596 Ox-tail soup, 214

597 Consomme a la Parisienne, 214

598 Petite Marmite, 215

599 Pot-au-feu, 215

600 Poule au pot Henri IV., 215

601 Consomme printanier, 216

602 Consomme printanier, with quenelles,

216

603 Consomme with Profiteroles, 216

604 Consomme Rachel, 216

605 Consomme Rejane, 217

606 Consomme Renaissance, 217

607 Consomme Richelieu, 217

608 Consomme Rossini, 218

609 Consomme Rothschild, 218

610 Consomme Saint-Hubert, 218

611 Consomme Sarah Bernhardt, 218

612 Consomme Sevigne, 219

613 Consomm^ Souveraine, 2ig

614 Turtle soup 219

615 Consomme a la Tosca, 222

616 Consomm^ Vert-pre, 222
Cold Consommes for Suppers —

617 Consommfo, Villeneuve, 223

618 Consomme with essence of quails,

223

619 Consomm^ with essence of celery,

223

620 Consomme with essence of morels,

223

621 Consomm6 with essence of truffles,

224

622 Consomm^ with partridge flavour,

224

623 Consomme with golden spangles,

224

624 Consomme with mild capsicum

flavour, 224

INDEX

No. of
Recipe

625 Consomme madrilene, 224

626 Consomme Portugaise, 224

627 Consomme with various wines,

224

628 Gelee aux pomraes d'amour, 225

629 Consomme of chicken, Neapolitan

style, 225
Coupes. See Bowls Nos. 2796, etc.
18.3 Court-bouillon with vinegar, 64

164 Court-bouillon with white wine,

165 Court-bouillon, with red wine, 64

166 Court-bouillon plain, 65

167 Court-bouillon, special or Blanc, 65
345 Crayfish, bushed, 151

966 Crayfish, h. la Bordelaise, 328

967 Crayfish, a la mariniere, 328

968 Crayfish, a la nage, 329

969 Crayfish, a la li^geoise, 329

970 Crayfish, mousselines, 329

971 Crayfish tails, timbale of, a la Nantua,

329

972 Crayfish souffle a la Florentine, 330

973 Crayfish souffle Leopold de Roths-

child, 330

974 Crayfish souffle, Piedmont style, 330

975 Crayfish tails, aspic of, a la moderne,

330

976 Crayfish mousse, 331

977 Crayfish mousse Cardinal, 332
976a Crayfish supremes with cham-
pagne, 332^

978 Crayfish souffle, small, cold, 333
243 Cream Soups. See Soups.

Cream Soups. See Thick Soups :
Nos. 696 to 714

294 Cream, caviare, 141

295 Cream, lobster, 141

296 Cream, game, 141

297 Cream, smoked-salmon, 141

298 Cream, tunny, 141

299 Cream, chicken, 141

335 Cream, moulded for hors-d'oeuvres,

2312 Cream, fried, with cheese, 681

2439 Cream a la Regence, 721

2440 Cream, meringued, 721

2638 Cream, cold, 763

2639 Cream, cold, with vanilla, 763

2640 Cream, cold, with caramel, 764

2641 Cream, cold, Viennese, 764

2642 Cream, cold, Florentine, 764

2643 Cream, Opera, 764

2644 Cream, Chantilly, 764

2645 Cream, Chantilly, with fruit, 765

2646 Cream, Caprice, 765

2647 Cream, Spring breezes, 765

2648 Cream, Nuees roses, 765

2399 Cream, frangipane, 710

2400 Cream for fried creams, 710

2401 Cream for pastry, 710

2402 Cream, whipped, 711

1410 Crepinettes with truffles, 462

1411 Crepinettes, Cinderella, 462
1870 Crepinettes of partridges, 591

No. of
Recipe

2313 Croquettes of camembert, 68i

2451 Croquettes of chestnuts, 723

2452 Croquettes of rice, 724

2453 Croquettes, various, 724
Croquettes of eggs, fish, shellfish,

various meats, poultry and game
(refer to these products).
2393 Crusts and croustades (the making
of), 70s

2454 Crusts with fruit, 724

2455 Crusts a la Lyonnaise, 724

2456 Crusts with Madeira, 724

2457 Crusts a la marechale, 725

2458 Crusts, Norman style, 725

2459 Crusts, Parisian style, 725

2460 Crusts of apricots with maraschino,

725

2461 Crusts, Victoria, 725

2608 Crusts, gilded (v. gl. for Gilded),

7SS
2721 Crusts, Mexican style, 782

2121 Cucumbers, 644

2122 Cucumbers with cream, 644

2123 Cucumbers, glazed, 644

2124 Cucumbers, stuffed A, 644

2125 Cucumbers, stuffed B, 644
329dCucumbers, Danish style, 149

330 Cucumbers, stuffed, for hors-

d'oeuvres, 149

331 Cucumber salad, 149

332 Cucumber salad and pimentos, 149
144 CuUises, various, 55

240 Cullises. See Thick Soups : Nos.
665 to 670
Cups. See Bowls.

1197 Cushion or kernel of veal, 398

1198 Cushion or kernel of veal (adjuncts

to), 399

1199 Cushion en Surprise, 400

1200 Cushion, Mac^doine, 400

1201 Cushion, Pithiviers, 401

1202 Cushion, Toulousaine, 401

1203 Cushion, cold, Caucasian style, 401

1204 Cushion, cold, Swedish style, 402
Custards, various, 708

2397 Custard, English, 708

2398 Custard, English, dished, 709

2441 Custard, village, 722

2442 Custard pudding, 722
Cutlets—

1583a Cutlets, chicken, 507
1664a Cutlets, chicken, 526

1370 Cutlets, lamb, 452

1371 Cutlets, lamb, i la Buloz, 452

1372 Cutlets, lamb, a la Marechale, 452

1373 Cutlets, lamb, Milanese style, 453

1374 Cutlets, lamb, a la Morland, 453

1375 Cutlets, lamb, a la Navaroise, 453

1376 Cutlets, lamb. Nelson, 453

1377 Cutlets, lamb, P^rigueux, 454

1311 Cutlets, mutton, 435

1312 Cutlets, mutton, Champvallon, 436

1313 Cutlets, mutton, Laura, 436

1314 Cutlets, mutton, Maintenon, 436

1315 Cutlets, mutton, Murillo, 437

INDEX

859

No. of
Recipe

1316 Cutlets, mutton, Provencale, 437
1316a Cutlets, mutton, Reform, 437

1317 Cutlets, mutton, S^vignd, 438

1318 Cutlets, mutton, Swedish style, 435

1319 Cutlets, mutton, Belle-Vue, 438

1320 Cutlets, mutton, Chaud-froid, 438
1846 Cutlets, pheasant, 585

1857 Cutlets, pheasant, cold, 588

1393 Cutlets, pork, Charcutiere, 458

1394 Cutlets, pork, Flemish style, 458

1395 Cutlets, pork, Milanese style, 458

1396 Cutlets, pork, with Robert or

Piquante sauce, 458

1800 Cutlets, roebuck, 570

1801 Cutlets, roebuck, a la Conti, 570

1802 Cutlets, roebuck, a la Diane, 570

1783 Cutlets, squabs, a la Nesles, 565

1784 Cutlets, squabs, in paper, 565

1785 Cutlets, squabs, i la S^vigne, 565

1253 Cutlets, veal, 419

1254 Cutlets, veal, a la Bonne Femme, 419

1255 Cutlets, veal, en Casserole, 420

1256 Cutlets, veal, en Cocotte k la Pay-

sanne, 420

1257 Cutlets, veal, a la Dreux, 420

1258 Cutlets, veal, Milanese style, 420

1259 Cutlets, veal, in paper, 420

1260 Cutlets, veal, Pojarski, 421

1261 Cutlets, veal, Zingari, 421

1262 Cutlets, veal, cold, en Belle-Vue, 421

1263 Cutlets, veal, cold, Rubens, 422

D.

1346 Daube a I'Avignonnaise, 445

1347 Daube a I'Avignonnaise, cold, 446

1172 Daube a la Proven9ale, 388

1173 Daube a la Provenjale, cold, 389
Deer. See Roebuck.

2315 Diablotins, 681
2722 Diplomate, with fruit, 782
2141 Dolmas, 647
758 Dorado, 261
1000 Dor}', John, 338

337 Duchesse, 150

338 Duchesse, Nantua, 150

339 Duchesse, a la Reine, 151

340 Duchesse, a la Sultane, IJI

341 Duchesse, with caviare, 151

342 Duchesse, smoked salmon, 151

343 Duchesse, Norwegian, 151
Ducks and ducklings, 554

1745 Duck, Aylesbury, with Sauerkraut,

SS4

1746 Duck, Aylesbury, poeled, with mint,

555

1747 Duck, Aylesbury, Moliere, 555

1748 Duck, Aylesbury, braised with

turnips, 555

1749 Duck, Aylesbury, with olives, 555

1750 Duck, Aylesbury, with oranges, 555

1751 Duck, Aylesbury, with peas, 555
1963 Duck, Aylesbury, roasted, 611
1754 Duck, Rouen, aiguillettes of, 557

No. of
Recipe

Duck, Rouen. See Aiguillettes, 558

1758 Duck, Rouen, with champagne, 558

1759 Duck, Rouen, en Chemise, 559

1760 Duck, Rouen, with port wine, 559

1761 Duck, Rouen, i la Presse, 559

1762 Duck, Rouen, stuffed, a la Rouen-

naise, 559

1765 Duck, Rouen, cold, a la Cuiller, 561

1766 Duck, Rouen, glazed with tan-

gerines, 561

1767 Duck, Rouen, glazed with cherries,

561
1964 Duck, Rouen, roasted, 611
1936 Duck, wild, 604
1981 Duck, wild, roasted, 614
1166 Dumpling, sweet, 386

223 Duxelles, ordinary or dry, 93

224 Duxelles, for stuffed vegetables, 93

225 Duxelles, for onions, cucumbers,

etc., stuffing, 94

E.

344 Eclairs, Karolyi, 151
755 Eels, 261

308 Eel, smoked, 143

309 Eel with white wine and paprika,

143

310 Eel au vert, 143

311 Eel au vert, Flemish style, 144
Eggs, 164

217 Eggs, threaded, for soups, 90

395 Eggs on the dish, 164

396 Eggs on the dish, Bercy, 165

397 Eggs on the dish with brown butter,

16S

398 Eggs on the dish, hunter s style, 165

399 Eggs on the dish, devilled, 165

400 Eggs on the dish, a la Florentine,

401 Eggs on the dish, gratined, 166

402 Eggs on the dish, Isoline, 166

403 Eggs on the dish, Jockey Club, 166

404 Eggs on the dish, Lully, 166

405 Eggs on the dish, Meyerbeer, 166

406 Eggs on the dish, Mirabeau, 166

407 Eggs on the dish, Omer- Pacha, 167

408 Eggs on the dish, Parmentier, 167

409 Eggs on the dish, Portuguese, 167

410 Eggs on the dish k la Reine, 167
Eggs, poached and soft-boiled, 167

411 Eggs, procedure for the poaching of,

167

412 Eggs, soft-boiled, the cooking of, 168

413 Eggs, the dishing of poached and

soft-boiled, 168

414 Eggs, poached, Argenteuil, 169

415 Eggs, poached, Aurora, 169

416 Eggs, poached in cradles, 169

417 Eggs, poached, Bohemian style, 169

418 Eggs, poached, Boieldieu, 169

119 Eggs, poached a la Bruxelloise, 170

420 Eggs, poached, Clamart, 170

421 Eggs, poached, Colbert, 170

86o

INDEX

No.of
Recipe

422 Eggs, poached, Comtesse, 170

423 Eggs, poached. Grand Due, 170

424 Eggs, poached, Maintenon, 170

425 Eggs, poached, Massena, 171
428 Eggs, poached, MireiUe, 171

427 Eggs, poached, Mornay, 171

428 Eggs, poached, d'Orsay, 171

429 Eggs, poached, Rossini, 171

430 Eggs, poached, S^vigne, 171

431 Eggs, poached, Victoria, 172

432 Eggs, poached, red wine, 172

2607 Eggs, poached, a la Religieuse, 754

433 Eggs, hard-boiled, 172

373 Eggs, hard-boiled, various, for hors
d'oeuvres, 158

434 Eggs, hard-boiled, a la Careme, 172

435 Eggs, hard-boiled, Chimay, 173

436 Eggs, hard-boiled, in croquettes, 173

437 Eggs, hard-boiled, in rissoles, 173

438 Eggs, hard-boiled, k la Tripe, 174

439 Eggs, hard-boiled, a la Tripe, h. la

Bourgeoise, 174

440 Eggs in Cocotte, 1 74

441 Eggs in Cocotte, with chambertin,

174

442 Eggs in Cocotte, with cream, 175

443 Eggs in Cocotte, Jeannette, 175

444 Eggs in Cocotte, with gravy, 175

445 Eggs in Cocotte, k la Lorraine, 175

446 Eggs in Cocotte, a la Maraichere, 1 75

447 Eggs in Cocotte, with morels, 175

448 Eggs in Cocotte, Soubise, 176

449 Eggs, moulded, 176

450 Eggs, moulded, a la Carignan, 176

451 Eggs, moulded. Duchess, 176

452 Eggs, moulded, Galli-Marie, 177

453 Eggs, moulded, Mortemart, 177

454 Eggs, moulded, Neapolitan style, 177

455 Eggs, moulded, Palermo style, 177

456 Eggs, moulded, Polignac, 178

457 Eggs, moulded, Princess, 178

458 Eggs, moulded, Printanier, 178

459 Eggs, scrambled, 178

460 Eggs, method of scrambling, 179

461 Eggs, scrambled, Bohemian style, 179

462 Eggs, scrambled, with mushrooms, 180

463 Eggs, scrambled, hunter's style, 180

464 Eggs, scrambled, Chatillon, 180

465 Eggs, scrambled, with shrimps, 180

466 Eggs, scrambled, with herbs, 180

467 Eggs, scrambled, with cheese, 180

468 Eggs, scrambled. Grandmother's, 181

469 Eggs, scrambled, Georgette, 181

470 Eggs, scrambled, hot, for luncheon

hors d'oeuvres, i8l

471 Eggs, scrambled, with morels, 181

472 Eggs, scrambled, with mousserons, 181

473 Eggs, scrambled, Orloff, 181

474 Eggs, scrambled, a la Piemontaise, 182

475 Eggs, scrambled, Portuguese style, 182

476 Eggs, scrambled, Princess Mary, 182

477 Eggs, scrambled, Rachel, 182

478 Eggs, scrambled, Reine Margot, 182

479 Eggs, scrambled, Rothschild, 183

480 Eggs, scrambled, with truffles, 183

No. of
Recipe

482 Eggs, fried, 183

483 Eggs, fried, the preparation of, 183

484 Eggs, fried, a la Bordelaise, 184

485 Eggs, fried, harvesters', 184

486 Eggs, fried, poached, 184

487 Eggs, fried, Portuguese style, 184

488 Eggs, fried, Proven(;ale, 184

489 Eggs, fried, Roman style, iSj

490 Eggs, fried, Verdi, 185

491 Eggs, fried, Villeroy, 185
Eggs, cold, 192

525 Eggs, cold, Alexandra, 192

526 Eggs, cold, Andalouse, 192

527 Eggs, cold, Argent euil, 192

528 Eggs, cold, des Capucins, 193

529 Eggs, cold, Careme, 193

530 Eggs, cold, Colbert, 193

531 Eggs, cold, Colinette, 193

532 Eggs, cold, with Tarragon, 193

533 Eggs, cold, Frou-Frou, 194

534 Eggs, cold, Moscovite, 194

535 Eggs, cold, Nantua, 194

536 Eggs, cold, Polignac, 195

537 Eggs, cold, a la Reine, 195

538 Eggs, cold, Rubens, 195

2735 Eggs, snow, 785

2736 Eggs, snow, moulded, 785

368 Eggs, plovers' and lapwings', plain, 1 56

369 Eggs, plovers' and lapwings', in

aspic, 157

370 Eggs, plovers' and lapwings', k la

Moderne, 157

371 Eggs, plovers' and lapwings', Chris-

tiania, 157

372 Eggs, plovers' and lapwings', a la

Moscovite, 157

519 Eggs, plovers' and lapwings', hot, 191

520 Eggs, plovers' and lapwings',

scrambled, 191

521 Eggs, plovers' and lapwings', Danish

style, 191

522 Eggs, plovers' and lapwings', omelet

of, 191

523 Eggs, plovers' and lapwings, a la

Royale, 191

524 Eggs, plovers' and lapwings', des

Troubadours, 191
Omelets, 185

492 Omelets, the preparation of, 1 86

493 Omelet, Agnes Sorel, 186

494 Omelet, Bruxelloise, 186

495 Omelet with cepes, 186

496 Omelet with mushrooms, 186

497 Omelet, Choisy, 187

498 Omelet, Clamart, 187

499 Omelet with crusts, 187

500 Omelet with spinach, 187

501 Omelet, farmer's style, 187

502 Omelet with herbs, 187

503 Omelet with vegetable-n\arrow

flowers, 187

504 Omelet with chickens' livers, 188

505 Omelet with artichoke-bottoms,

1 88

506 Omelet with hop-sprouts, 188

INDEX

86 1

No. of
Recipe

507 Omelet, Lyonnaise, :88

508 Omelet, Maxim, i88

509 Omelet with morels, 1S9

510 Omelet, mousseline, 189
510a Omelet with mousserons, 189

511 Omelet, Nantua, 189

512 Omelet, Parmentier, 189

513 Omelet, Paysanne, 189

514 Omelet with asparagus-tops or sprew,

190

515 Omelet, Proven5ale, 190

516 Omelet with kidneys, 190

517 Omelet, Rossini, 190

518 Omelet with truffles, 190

521 Omelet of lapwings' or plovers' eggs,
191

2319 Omelet, Scottish style, 682

2320 Omelet, savoury, 682
Omelets, sweet, 726

2462 Omelets with liqueurs : e.g. omelet

with rum, 728

2463 Omelets, jam : e.g. omelet with

apricots, 726

2464 Omelet, Christmas, 726

2465 Omelet, souffled : e.g. souffled with

vanilla, 726

2466 Omelet, surprise ; e.g. Norwegian

omelet, 727

2467 Omelet, surprise. My Lord, 727

2468 Omelet, surprise, Chinese, 727

2469 Omelet, surprise, with cherries, 727

2470 Omelet, surprise. Milady, 728

2471 Omelet, surprise, Neapolitan style,

728

2472 Omelet, surprise, Elizabeth, 728

2473 Omelet, surprise, i I'lslandaise, 728

2474 Omelet, sylph, 728

2475 Omelets, surprise, various, 729
2606 Omelet, Celestine, 754

2046 Egg-plants, Egyptian style, 628

2047 Egg-plants, gratined, 629

2048 Egg-plants, fried, 629

2049 Egg-plants, Proven9ale, 629

2050 Egg-plants, souffled, 629

2051 Egg-plants, Turkish style, 629
Elementary preparations of cookery,

70
Elementary preparations of pastry,
687

2338 Various almond preparations, 687

2339 Various filbert and hazel-nut pre-

parations, 688

2340 Various butters, 688

2341 The buttering and glazing of the

moulds, 689

2342 How to beat the white of eggs, 689

2343 Vegetable colouring matters, 689

2344 The cooking of the sugar, 690

2345 Glaze, ancient style, 691

2346 Glaze, with fondant, 691
2346a Icing sugar, 692

2347 Sugar grains, 692

2348 Coloured sugar gi-ains, 692

2349 Vanilla sugar, 693

2350 Candied fruits, 693

No. of
Recipe

2351 Apple jelly for decorating, 693

2352 Pralin, 693

2353 Currants and sultanas, 694

2354 Essences and flavourings, 694

2355 Gilding preparation, 694
2364 Gumming, 696

1378 Epigrammes of lamb, 454
1871 Epigrammes of partridge, 592

13 Essences, various, 13
2726 Eugenia, Italian cream, 783

176 Faggots, 72
2142 Fennel, tuberous, 648

347 Fennel, tuberous, a la Grecque, 152
760 Fera, 261

348 Figs, fresh, 152
1935 Fig-peckers, 604

Filberts. See Hazel-nuts.

1043 Fillet of beef (Relev^), 353

1044 Fillet of beef, Andalouse, 353

1045 Fillet of beef, Bouquetiere, 353

1046 Fillet of beef, Camargo, 354

1047 Fillet of beef, Chitelaine,3S4

1048 Fillet of beef, Clamart, 355

1049 Fillet of beef, Dauphine, 355

1050 Fillet of beef, Dubarry, 355

1051 Fillet of beef, Duchesse, 355

1052 Fillet of beef, Financiere, 355

1053 Fillet of beef. Gastronome, 356

1054 Fillet of beef, Godard, 356

1055 Fillet of beef, Hungarian style, 356

1056 Fillet of beef, Japanese style, 357

1057 Fillet of beef. Jardiniere, 357

1058 Fillet of heef, Lorette, 357

1059 Fillet of beef, Macedoine, 357

1060 Fillet of beef, Madeira and mush-

rooms, 357

1061 Fillet of beef, modern, 358

1062 Fillet of beef, Montmorency, 358

1063 Fillet of beef, Nivernaise, 358

1064 Fillet of beef, Orientale, 359

1065 Fillet of beef, P^rigourdine, 359

1066 Fillet of beef, Petit-Due, 359

1067 Fillet of beef, Portuguese, 359

1068 Fillet of beef, Provengale, 359

1069 Fillet of beef. Regency, 360

1070 Fillet of beef, Renaissance, 360

1071 Fillet of beef, Richelieu, 360

1072 Fillet of beef, Saint-Florentin, 361

1073 Fillet of beef, Saint-Germain, 361

1074 Fillet of beef, Talleyrand, 361

1075 Fillet of beef, cold, 362

1076 Fillet of beef, Chiteaubriand-Tour-

nedos, 362
1950 Fillet of beef, roast, 362
1140 Fillet of beef, en Chevreuil, 377
1950 Fillet of beef, roast, 607
1195 Fillet of veal, 398
1301 Fillet of mutton, 432
1322 Fillet, minion, of mutton, 439
1357 Fillet of lamb, 449
1384 Fillet of pork, 456

862

INDEX

No. of
Recipe
1580 Fillet of chicken, 507

1628 Fillet of chicken, Saint-Germain,

S17

1629 Fillet of chicken, Mireille, 517

1816 Fillet of leveret a la Dampierre, 574

1817 Fillet of leveret Mornay (recipe of

the Proven9aux), 574

1818 Fillet of leveret, Vendome, 575
1846 Fillet of pheasant, 585

Fish, 260

775 Fish, the various modes of cooking,

262

776 Fish, the cooking of, in salted water,

262

777 Fish, the frying of, 263

778 Fish a la Meuniere, 264

779 Fish, the poaching of, 265

780 Fish, the braising of, 265

781 Fish, the broiling of, 266

782 Fish, au gratin, or baked, 267

783 Fish, the cooking of, crimped, 267
1041 Fish-cakes, 351

204 Fish, special stuffings for, 83

Flageolets. See Green Beans, No.

2ISS-
2629 Flamri, 765
2395 Flawn (to make flawn crusts), 707

182 Flour, 7S

349 Foies-Gras, as a hors-d'oeuvre, 152

1726 Foies-Gras, 547

1727 Foies-Gras, cooked in a brioche, 548

1728 Foies-Gras, coUops of, Perigueux,

549

1729 Foies-Gras, coUopsof, Ravignan, 549

1730 Foies-Gras, coUops of, Talleyrand,

.549

1736 Foies-Gras a la Gastronome, 551

1737 Foies-Gras with paprika, 552

1738 Foies-Gras coUops a la Marechale,

.552
1743 Foies-Gras, pave of, LucuUus, 553

Foie-Gras Delights, 681
Chap. I. Fonds de Cuisine (Stocks), I
2316 Fondants with Chester, 682

Forcemeats, 77

193 Forcemeat, chicken, with panada

and butter, 78

194 Forcemeat, chicken, with panada

and cream, 79

195 Forcemeat, fine, or mousseline force-

meat, 79

196 Forcemeat, pork, for various uses,

80

197 Forcemeat, for galantines, pies and

patties, 80

198 Forcemeat, veal, with fat or Godi-

veau, 80

199 Forcemeat, veal, with fat and cream,

8i

200 Forcemeat, chicken, for galantine,

pies and patties, 81

201 Forcemeat, game, for galantine,

pies and patties, 82

202 Forcemeat, gratin, for ordinary, hot,

raised pies, 82

No. of
Recipe

203 Forcemeat, for quenelles of pike,

a la Lyonnaise, 83

204 Special stuffings for fish, 83

205 Forcemeat balls or quenelles, 84
French Beans. See Nos. 2157 and

2158.
1277 Fricadelles, 425

1206 Fricandeau, 403

1207 Fricandeau, cold, 403

Fricassee of chicken. See Nos. 1667

and 1668.
Fricassee of veal. See No. 1276.
Fritters, 715
2300 Fritters, soufBed with cheese, 678

2419 Fritters of fresh fruit and flowers,

71S

2420 Fritters of fruit with firm pulps, e.g.

apricot fritters, 716

2421 Fritters of aqueous fruit, e.g. straw-

berry fritters, 716

2422 Fritters of flowers, e.g. Acacia-flower

fritters, 716

2423 Fritters, custard, or fried cream, 7'^

2424 Fritters, Viennese, 717

2425 Fritters, Viennese, hot, 717

2426 Fritters, Viennese, cold, 718

2427 Fritters, souffled, 718

2428 Fritters, soufflM, en surprise, 719

2429 Fritters, pine-apple, a la Favorite,

719

2430 Fritters a la Bourgeoise, 719

2431 Fritters, Sylvana, 719

2432 Fritters, Grandmother, 719

2433 Fritters, R^gina, 720

2434 Fritters, Minion, 720

2435 Fritters, Suzon, 720

1669 Fritots and marinades of chicken,
528

350 Frivolites, 152

762 Frogs, 261
2791 Frosted tangerines, 797
2609 Fruit, supr6me of, Gabrielle, 755

2952 Fruit, stewed, simple, 820

2953 Fruit, stewed, compound, 820

262 Fryings, 123

263 Frying fat, its preparation, 123

264 Frying mediums, various degrees of

heat reached by the, 124

265 Frying fat for fish, 125

266 Frying fat, the apportionment of,

126

267 Frying medium, the care of the, 127

G.

1708 Galantine of chicken, 538
1858 Galantine of pheasant, 588
1827 Game, feathered, 579
1920 Game, black, 602
1983 Game, black, roast, 615
1924 Ganga, 602

Garnishes, various kinds of, for
entries and removes, 77
279 Garnishes, vegetable, 133

INDEX

863

No. of
Recipe

1652 Giblets, with turnips, 522

1653 Giblet pie, 523

14 Glazes, various, 13

15 Glaze, meat, 14

16 Glaze, poultry, 14

17 Glaze, game, 14

18 Glaze, fish, 14
272 Glazings, 129

2280 Gnochi, gratined, 672

2281 Gnochi, Roman style, 672

2282 Gnochi of potatoes, 672

2147 Gombos, 648

2148 Gombos with cream, 648

2149 Gombos, for garnishing, 648
1722b Goose and goshng, German style,

546
1722c Goose and gosling, Alsatian style,
546

1723 Goose and gosling, English style,

546

1724 Goose and gosling, jugged, or goose

en civet, 546
365 Goose, smoked breast of, 156
2686 Gooseberry Fool, 775

1725 Gosling, with horse radish, 547
1962 Gosling, roast, 547

1177 Goulash, Hungarian style, 390
2930 Granites, 814

268 Gratins, 127

269 Gratin, complete, 127

270 Gratin, rapid, 128

271 Gratin, light, 129
255 Gravies for roasts, 118

41 Gravy, thickened veal, 28

42 Gravy, thickened veal, tomated, 28
Green Beans, or Flageolets. See

Beans, No. 2155.

1216 Grenadins of veal, 406

1217 Grenadins of veal, cold, in Belle-vue,

406

257 Grills, 119

258 Grills, red meat, 120

259 Grills, white meat, 122

260 Grills, fish, 122

261 Grilling, the, of products treated with

egg and bread crumbs, 122
1923 Grouse, 602
1983 Grouse, roast, 615
761 Gudgeon, 261
1965 Guinea Fowl, 611

H.

1001 Haddock, fresh, 338
1008 Haddock, smoked, 340
Ham, 464

1415 Ham, hot, its preparation, 464

1416 Ham, Chanoinesse, 465

1417 Ham, with Sauerkraut, 465

1418 Ham, Maillot, 465

1419 Ham, Prague, under ashes, 465
1419a Ham, Metternich, 466
1419b Ham, Norfolk, 466

No. of
Recipe

1420 Ham, various garnishes for, hot, 466

1421 Ham, souffl^d, 466

1422 Ham soufflfe, 467

1423 Ham, cooked, preparations of souffles

with, 467

1424 Ham, raw, preparations of souffles

with, 467

1425 Ham, Alexandra, souffle of, 468

1426 Ham, Carmen, souffle of, 468

1427 Ham, Gastronome, souffle of, 468

1428 Ham, k la Milanaise, souffle of, 468

1429 Ham, Perigourdine, souffl6 of, 468
359 Ham, Ardennes, 155

1437 Ham, cold, with aspic jelly, 470

1438 Ham, cold, souffle of, 471
333 Ham, York cones of, 150

1810 Hare and leveret, 572

1811 Hare and leveret, stuffed Perigour-

dine, 573

1812 Hare, back of, 573

1813 Hare, back of, German style, 573

1814 Hare, back of, with juniper berries,

573

1815 Hare, legs of, 573

1821 Hare, jugged, or civet, 576

1822 Hare en Daube, 576
1967 Hare, roast, 611

1349 Haricot de Mouton, 446

1919 Hazel-hens, 602

1983 Hazel-hens, roast, 615

2339 Hazel-nuts, various preparations of,

777
183 Herb Juice, 75

352 Herrings, salted, filleted, 153

353 Herrings, fresh, marinadad, with

white wine, 153

354 Herrings, Lucas, 153

355 Herrings, a la Livonienne, 153

356 Herrings, Russian style, 153

357 Herrings, with French beans, 1 54
763 Herrings, fresh, 261

2150 Hop sprouts, young, 648

Hors-d'oeuvres, general remarks, 137
288 Hors-d'oeuvres, preparations for, 139

Ices, 788

2744 Ices, the making of, 788

2745 Ices, the moulding of, 789

2746 Ices, simple, preparations for, 790

2747 Ice-cream preparations, 790

2748 Ice-cream, almond, 790

2749 Ice-cream, asparagus, 790

2750 Ice-cream, filbert, 790

2751 Ice-cream, coffee, 790

2752 Ice-cream, chocolate, 791

2753 Ice-cream, walnut, 791

2754 Ice-cream, Pistachio, 791

2755 Ice-cream, pralined, 791

2756 Ice-cream, tea- flavoured, 791

2757 Ice-cream, vanilla, 791

2758 Ices, fruit, composition for, 792

2759 Ices, fruit, the making of, 792

864

INDEX

No. of
Recipe

2760 Ices, liqueur, preparations for, 792

2761 Ice, apricot, 793

2762 Ice, pine-apple, 793

2763 Ice, banana, 793

2764 Ice, cherry, 793

2765 Ice, lemon, 793

2766 Ice, strawberry, 793

2767 Ice, raspberry, 793

2768 Ice, red-currant, 794

2769 Ice, tangerine, 724

2770 Ice, Cantaloup, 794

2771 Ice, orange, 794

2772 Ice, peach, 794

2773 Ice, pear, 794

2774 Ice, plum, 794

2775 Ice, grape, 794

2776 Ice, violet, 794

2777 Ice, Alhambra, 795

2778 Ice, Carmen, 795

2779 Ice, Countess Mary, 795

2780 Ice, Sunset, 795

2781 Ice, Dame Jane, 795

2782 Ice, Dora, 795

2783 Ice, Shepherd's Star, 795

2784 Ice, Floweret, 796

2785 Ice, Francillon, 796

2786 Iced cheeses, 796

2787 Ice Gourmets, 796

2788 Ices, moulded, 796

2789 Ices, Island, 796

2790 Iced Madeleine, 796

2792 Iced tangerines, with Alpine pearls,

797

2793 Ice, Mary-Theresa, 797
2795 Ice, Plombiere, 797

2816 Ices, light, 800

2817 Ices, light, various preparations for,

800

2818 Iced biscuit preparations, 801

2819 Iced biscuit, the moulding of, 801

2820 Iced biscuit, Benedictine, 801

2821 Iced biscuit. Marquise, 801

2822 Iced biscuit, Mont-Blanc, 801

2823 Iced biscuit, Neapolitan style, 801

2824 Iced biscuit, Princess, 802

2825 Iced biscuit, Sigurd, 802
2936 Iced coffee, 816

Iced mousses. See Mousses.

Iced parfait. See Parfait.

Iced puddings. See Puddings.

Iced souffles. See Soufflfe.
1350 Irish-stew, 447
2723 Island, floating, 782

J.

2954 Jams, 820

2955 Jams, the cooking of, 821

2956 Jam, apricot, 821

2957 Jam, cherry, 822

2958 Jam, strawberry, 822

2959 Jam, orange, 823

2960 Jam, plum, 823

No. of
Recipe

2961 Jam, rhubarb, 823

2962 Jam, tomato, 824

2650 Jellies, 765

2651 Jelly, calf's foot, 766

2652 Jellies, with gelatine base, 766

2653 Jellies, garnish and accompaniments

for, 767

2654 Jellies, Rubann6es, 768

2655 Jelly, Russian style, 768

2656 Jelly, Moscovite, 768

2963 Jelly, black-currant, 825

2964 Jelly, quince, 825

2965 Jelly, red-currant (A), 825

2966 Jelly, red-currant (B), 826

2967 Jelly, red-currant (C), 826

2968 Jelly, white-currant, 826

2969 Jelly, currant, cold preparation of,

826

2970 Jelly, orange, 827

2971 Jelly, apple, 827

2972 Jelly, tomato (A), 827

2973 Jelly, tomato (B), 827
2724 Junket, milk, 783

Jerusalem artichokes. See Arti-
chokes, Nos. 2271, 2272.

K.

2292 Kache, of semolina for coulibiacs,

675

2293 Kache of buckwheat flour, for soups,

67s

2942 Kaltschale, 818

1661 Kidney and cocks' combs, 525

1264 Kidney of veal, 422

1265 Kidney of veal en Casserole, 422

1266 Kidney of veal en Cocotte, 422

1267 Kidney of veal, grille, 422

1268 Kidney of veal a la Liegeoise, 423

1269 Kidney of veal, Montpensier, 423

1270 Kidney of veal, Portuguese style,

423

1271 Kidney of veal, Robert, 423

1329 Kidneys, mutton, 441

1330 Kidneys, mutton, Bercy, 441

1331 Kidneys, mutton, Bordelaise, 441

1332 Kidneys, mutton, Carvalho, 442

1333 Kidneys, mutton, with champagne,

442

1334 Kidneys, mutton, Hungarian style,

442

1335 Kidneys, mutton, hunter's style, 442

1336 Kidneys, mutton, Indian style, 443

1337 Kidneys, mutton, Turbigo, 443

1338 Kidneys, mutton, with crusts, 443

1339 Kidneys, turban of. Piedmont style,

443

1340 Kidneys, mutton, on skewers, 443

1341 Kidneys, mutton, on skewers,

Spanish style, 444

1342 Kidneys, mutton, on skewers, Vert-

pr^, 444

1343 Kidneys, mutton, en Brochette, 444

INDEX

865

No. of
Recipe

Lamb, Pauillac or house-lamb, 449
1365 Lamb, Pauillac, baion, or pair of

hind-quarters, 449
1356 Lamb, pauillac, double of, 449
1382 Lamb, curried, 455
1952 Lamb, roast, 607

764 Lampreys, 261
1918 Land rails, 602
1940 Lapwings, 604
1982 Lapwings, roast, 615

374 Larks, pat£ of, 158

1929 Larks, a la Bonne Femme, 603

1930 Larks, k la Mere Marianne, 603

1931 Larks, du P^re Philippe, 603

1932 Larks, cold, 603
1980 Larks, roast, 614

374 Larks, raised pie of, 158

765 Lavaret or gwiniad or fresh-water

herrings, 261
2168 Laver, 657

1304 Leg and shoulders of mutton, 433

1305 Leg of mutton, boiled, English

style, 433

1306 Leg of mutton, braised, 434

1307 Leg of mutton, Baker's style, 434

1308 Leg of mutton, marinadad, veni-

son-fashion, 434

1309 Leg of mutton, soubise, 435

1310 Leg of mutton, cold, 435

1369 Leg and shoulder of house-lamb,

452
1383 Leg, fresh, of pork, 456
2937 Lemonade, iced, 817
179 Lemons, peeled, channeled and

zested, 73
2166 Lentils with butter, 651

2160 Lettuces, braised with gravy, 650

2161 Lettuces, braised with marrow, 651

2162 Lettuces, stuffed, 651

2163 Lettuces, stuffed for garnishing, 651

2164 Lettuces, with cream, 65 1

Lima beans. See haricot beans,

Nos. 2151, 2152, 2IS3,
Livers —

1247 Liver, calf s, braised k la Bourgeoise,

1248 Liver, calf s, Engbsh style, 418

1249 Liver, calfs, skewers of, 418

1250 Liver, calfs, Spanish style, 418

1251 Liver, calfs, sauted with herbs, 418
1666 Livers, chickens', sauted with lamb's

kidneys and red wine, 527
Livers, geese and ducks', fat. See

Foies-Gras.
Lobsters, 316

939 Lobster, Am^ricaine, 3l6l-

940 Lobster, Bordelaise,"317

941 Lobster, Dutch, 317

942 Lobster, on the spit, 318

943 Lobster, Cardinal, 318

944 Lobster, Clarence, 319

945 Lobster, with cream, 319

946 Lobster, broiled, 319

/

No. of
Recipe

947 Lobster, Mornay, otherwise grat-

ined, 320

948 Lobster, New- Burg, raw, 320

949 Lobster, k la New-Burg, with cooked

Lobster, 320

950 Lobster, k la Palestine, 320

951 Lobster, Mousselines of, 321 —

952 Lobster Souffl6, 321

953 Lobster, cold, with various sauces,

322

954 Lobster, Aspic of, 322

955 Lobster, cutlets of, Arkangel, 323

956 Lobster, cold Mousse of, 323

957 Lobster, cold Mousse of, moulded,

324

958 Lobster, cold Mousse of, small, 324

959 Lobster i la Grammont, 324

960 Lobster k la Parisienne, 325

961 Lobster, Russian style, 326

962 Lobster, Mayonnaise of, 326

963 Lobster Salad, 326

964 Lobster, Spiny, Parisian style, 326

965 Lobster, Spiny, Russian style, 326
1193 Loin of Veal, 398

1195 Loin of Veal, short, 398
766 Lote, 262

M

2284 Macaroni and Spaghetti, 673

2285 Macaroni or Spaghetti, Italian

style, 673

2286 Macaroni or Spaghetti, gratined,

673

2287 Macaroni or Spaghetti, with gravy,

673

2288 Macaroni or Sp^^hetti, k la Nantua,

674

2289 Macaroni or Spaghetti, Neapolitan

style, 674

2290 Macaroni or Spaghetti, with white

truffles, 674
2725 MacMoine of fruit (cooled), 783

1009 Mackerel, 341

1010 Mackerel, broiled, 341

1011 Mackerel with herbs, 341

1012 Mackerel with parsley, 341

1013 Mackerel, Venetian style, 342

226 Maintenon, 94

2169 Maize or Green Corn, 651
Marinades and Brines, 66

168 Marinade, cooked, for Venison, 67

169 Marinade, raw, for butcher's meat or

venison, 67-,

170 Marinade for mutton, venison

fashion, 68

171 Marinade, with red wine for mut-

ton, 68

172 Brine or Saumure, 68
2727 Marquise Alice, 783
2931 Marquise, iced, 814

1087 Matelotte, with red wine, 349

1088 Matelotte, with white wine

227 Matignon, 94

Mayonnaise Sauce. See Cold Sauces.

3 K

866

INDEX

No. of

Recipe

1712 Mayonnaise of Chicken, 541

1707 Medallions of chicken Rachel, 538

360 Melon, Cantaloup, 155

361 Melon, English, 155

362 Melon, with Porto, Marsala, or

Sherry, 155

363 Melons, various, 155

2728 Melon, Oriental, 784

2729 Melon, iced, 784

2730 Melon, en Surprise, 7S4
2941 Melonade, 817

2731 Meringues, garnished, 784
2794 Meringues, iced, 797
2605 Mince-pies, 754

228 Mirepoix, 94

229 Mirepoix, Bordelaise, 94

2732 Mont-Blanc, with strawberries, 784

2733 Mont-Blanc, with candied chestnuts,

78s

2734 Mont-Rose, 785
Morels, 635

2081 Morels, with cream, 636

2082 Morels, stuffed, 636

2083 Morels a la Poulette, 636

2084 Morels, sauted, 636

2085 Morels, Tourte of, 636
Morue and Salted Cod, 344

1024 Morue, English style, 344

1025 Morue, Benedictine, 344

1026 Morue with black butter, 345

1027 Morue, Brandade of, 345

1028 Morue, Brandade of, with cream, 345

1029 Morue a la Creole, 345

1030 Morue, Dutch style, 345

1031 Morue, Indian style, 345

1032 Morue ^ la Lyonnaise, 345
767 Mostele, 262

1351 Moussaka, 447
Mousses, hot —

1430 Mousse, hot, of ham, 469

1431 Mousse, hot, of ham, treatment and

accompaniments of, 469
1670 Mousse, hot, of chicken, 528
1769 Mousse, hot, of Rouen duck, 562
1819 Mousse, hot, of hare, 575
1850 Mousse, hot, of pheasant, 587

1439 Mousse, cold, of ham, 471

1440 Mousse, cold, Alsatian style, 471

1441 Mousse, cold, with white of chicken,

471
1711 Mousse, cold, of chicken, 541
1739 Mousse, cold, of foie gras, 552

1769 Mousse, cold, of duck, 562
814 Mousse, cold, of tomatoes, 279

1770 Mousse, cold, of Rouen duck, 562
1859 Mousse, cold, of pheasant, 588
1879 Mousse, cold, of woodcock and

snipes, 594
1917 Mousse, cold, of quails, 602

2915 Mousse, iced, preparation for, 810

2916 Mousse, ice cream, preparations for,

810

2917 Mousse, various, iced, 810
Mousselines, hot —

1430 Mousselines, ham, of ham, 469

No. of
Recipe

1432 Mousselines, hot, treatment and

accompaniments of, 469

1433 Mousselines of ham, Alexandra,

470

1434 Mousselines of ham, Florentine,

470

1435 Mousselines of ham, Hungarian

style, 470

1436 Mousselines of ham with peas, 470

1671 Mousselines of chicken, Alexandra,

529

1672 Mousselines of chicken, Indian

style, 529

1673 Mousselines of chicken with Pap-

rika, 529

1674 Mousselines of chicken a la Patti,

529

1675 Mousselines of chicken, Sicilian

style, 529
1677 Mousselines of chicken, Florentine,

529
1769 Mousselines of Rouen duck, 562
1790 Mousselines of squabs. Epicurean

style, 569
1819 Mousselines of hare, 575
1850 Mousselines of pheasant, 587
1879 Mousselines of woodcock and snipes,

594
1442 Mousselines, cold, of ham, 472
1740 Mousselines, cold, of foie gras, 553

2737 Mousselines, sweet, Rejane, 785

2738 Mousselines, sweet, Mimi, 786
2086 Mousserons — Oronges — Girdles, 636

Mushrooms, 634

2072 Mushrooms, with cream, 634

2073 Mushrooms, sauted, 634

2074 Mushrooms, broiled, 634

2075 Mushrooms, stuffed, 634

2076 Mushroom, with grilled flawn, 634

2077 Mushroom, with grilled tartlets, 637

2078 Mushroom, turned and groved for

garnishing, 637
2310 Mushrooms stewed under a glass
cover with cream, 680
768 Mussels, 263
Mutton, 431

1299 Mutton, baron, or pair of hind

quarters of, 432

1300 Mutton, double, or pair of legs of, 432
1303 Mutton, large, cold, joints of, 433
1345 Mutton, curried, Indian style, 445
1348 Mutton, hashed and minced, 446
1352 Mutton pudding, 448

1952 Mutton, roast, 607

N.

1353 Navarin, 448
1194 Neck of veal, 398
1302 Neck of mutton, 432

1361 Neck of Pauillac lamb, a la Beaucaire,

45°

1362 Neck of Pauillac, en Cocotte Bonne

Femme, 450

INDEX

867

No. of
Recipe

1363 Neck of Pauillac, k la Boulang^re, 450

1364 Neck of Pauillac, broiled, 450

1365 Neck of Pauillac, Mireille, 451

1366 Neck of Pauillac, Printanier, 451

1367 Neck of Pauillac, Soubise, 451

1368 Neck of Pauillac, Toscane, 451

1385 Neck of fresh pork, 456

1386 Neck of fresh pork, with sauerkraut,

456

1387 Neck of fresh pork, with Brussels

sprouts, 456

1388 Neck of fresh pork, Flemish style, 456

1389 Neck of fresh pork, with apple sauce,

457

1390 Neck of fresh pork, soissonnaise, 457
Nectarines, 747

Noisettes —
1321 Noisettes of mutton, 439

1803 Noisettes of roebuck, 570

1804 Noisettes of roebuck, Romanoff, 571

1805 Noisettes of roebuck, Valencia, 571

1806 Noisettes of roebuck, Villeneuve, 571
Noisettes of roebuck, Walkyrie, 571

769 Nonats, 262
2291 Noodles, 674
2283 Noques, 673

351 Nymphes k I'Aurore, 152

O.

186 Olives, turned and stoned, 76

366 Olives, plain, 156

367 Olives, stuffed, 156

Omelets. See (Nos. 492 to JlS and
2465 to 2475
185 Onions, chopped, 76

2181 Onions, stuffed, 654

2182 Onions, fried, 654

2183 Onions, glazed, 654

2570 Oranges, Norwegian style, 747
2572 Oranges, SoufH^d Righi, 748

2690 Oranges with blanc-mange, 776

2691 Oranges, Rubann^es, 777

2692 Oranges en Surprise, 777

2693 Oranges en Surprise SoufB^es, 777
2943 Orangeade, 818

1913 Ortolans, 603

1934 Ortolans, sylphides of, 603

1974 Ortolans, roast, 613

1975 Ortolans, roast, with questches, 613

1976 Ortolans, roast, with pineapple juice,

614

1159 Ox-tails 4 I'Auvergnate, 384

1160 Ox-tails k la Cavour, 384

1161 Ox-tails, stuffed, 385

1162 Ox-tails, broiled, 385

1163 Ox- tails, hotchpot of, 385

Ox-tail soup. See Consommes (No.

596)
1153 Ox-tongues. (See also Nos. 11 54 to

1158)
358 Oysters, 154
2318 Oysters, skewers of Lucifer, 682
364 Oysters, Natives, with caviare, 155

No., of
Recipe

980 Oysters i la Favorite, 333

981 Oysters, gratined, 334

982 Oysters, Mornay, 334

983 Oysters, SoufflW, 334

984 Oysters, Florentine, 334

985 Oysters, broiled, 334

986 Oysters, quenelles of, k la Reine, 334

2259 Oyster plants, 668

2260 Oyster plants, fried, 668

2261 Oyster plants, sauted, 668

2262 Oyster plants, with cream, 668

P.

2322 Paillettes, with Parmesan, 681
1709 Pain or loaf of chicken, 540

1741 Pain of foies gras, 553
1285 Pain of veal, 428
1252 Pain of calf s liver, 418
1823 Pain of hare, 577

1860 Pain of pheasant in Belle- Vue, 588
2090 Pain of chicory, 637
2657 Pain of fruit, 768

189 Panadas, various, for stuffing and

forcemeats, 77

190 Panada (A), with bread, 78

191 Panada (B), with flour, 78

192 Panada (c), with frangipan, 78
2139 Pancakes, with spinach, 647

2323 Pancakes, 4 la Moscovite, 681
2403 Pancakes (sweet), preparations for,

711

2443 Pancakes, convent, 722

2444 Pancakes, Georgette, 722

2445 Pancakes, Gil Bias, 723

2446 Pancakes, Norman style, 723

2447 Pancakes, Parisian style, 723

2448 Pancakes, peasant style, 723

2449 Pancakes, Russian style, 723

2450 Pancakes, Suzette, 723

326 Pancake, Moscovite. See Blinis.

2476 Pannequets, with jams, 729

2477 Pannequets, with cream, 729

2478 Pannequets, Meringued, 729

1742 Parfait of foies gras, 553
2918 Parfait, iced, 810

187 Parsley, chopped and concassed, 76
Partridges, 589

1864 Partridge, young, Burgundian style,

590

1865 Partridge, young, in half-mourning,

590

1866 Partridge, young, in Estouffade, 590

1867 Partridge, young, k la Lautrec, 590

1868 Partridge, young, Lady Clifford, 591

1869 Partridge, young, with cabbages, 591
1873 Partridge, young, cold, 592

1972 Partridge, young, roast, 613
Pastes, 695

2356 Paste, ordinary short, 695

2357 Pastes, the kneading of, 695

2358 Paste, fine, short, or flawn, 695

2359 Paste, dressing, 695

3 K 2

868

INDEX

No. of
Recipe

2360 Paste, dressing, with lard, 696

2361 Paste, dumpling and pudding,

696

2362 Paste, dry, sugared, for various pur-

poses, 696

2363 Paste for small, gummed, tea-cakes,

696

2365 Puff-paste, ordinary, or Galette

paste, 696

2366 Puff-paste, 697

2367 Puff-paste, trimmings of, or half

puff-paste, 698

2368 Paste, ordinary brioche, 698

2369 Paste, mousseline, brioche, 699

2370 Paste, brioche, for rissoles, 699

2371 Paste, Savarin, 700

2372 Paste, Baba, 700

2373 " Pate k choux," ordinary, 701

2375 Pastes, Ramequin and Gougire, 701

2376 Paste, fine Genoise, 701

2377 Paste, ordinary Genoise, for cutting

up, 702

2378 Paste for lady's-finger biscuits, 702

2379 Paste for Savoy biscuits, 702

2380 Paste for manque biscuits, 703

2381 Paste for Punch biscuits, 703

2382 Paste, ordinary Meringue, 703

2383 Paste, Italian Meringue, 703

2384 Paste, Italian Meringue (another

recipe), 703

2385 Paste, almond, 703

2386 Paste, melting almond, 704

2387 Paste, Pistachio, 704

2388 Paste, Pistachio, for infusion, 704

2389 Paste, melting. Pistachio, 704
Patties. See Terrines.

Patties, small. See Bouch^es, 705
2392 Patties, small. Hot, 705
1278 Paupiettes of veal, 426

2573 Peaches, Bourdaloue, 748

2574 Peaches, Condi, 748

2575 Peaches, Cussy, 748

2576 Peaches, singed, 748

2577 Peaches, gratined, 749

2578 Peaches, Meringued, 749

2579 Peaches, Maintenon, 749

2580 Peaches, vanilla, 749

2694 Peaches, cold, Aiglon, 777

2695 Peaches, cold, Aurora, 777

2696 Peaches, cold, Alexandra, 777

2697 Peaches, cold. Cardinal, 778

2698 Peaches, cold, White Lady, 778

2699 Peaches, cold, Melba, 778

2700 Peaches, cold, Petit-Due, 778

2701 Peaches, cold, Sultana, 778

2702 Peaches, cold, Chateau-Laffitte, 778

2703 Peaches, cold, Empress, 779

2704 Peaches, cold, Rose-Cheri, 779

2705 Peaches, cold, Rose Pompon, 779

2581 Pears, Bourdaloue, 749

2582 Pears, Conde, 749

2583 Pears, Empress, 749

2584 Pears, Parisian style, 749

2585 Pears, Sultana, 749

2586 Pears, Regency, 749

No. of
Recipe
2587 Pears, timbale of, a la Valenciennes,

749

2706 Pears, Alma, 779

2707 Pears, Cardinal, 779

2708 Pears, Carignan, 779

2709 Pears, Felicia, 780

2710 Pears, Florentine, 780

2711 Pears, Helena, 780

2712 Pears, Marquise, 780

2713 Pears, Mary Garden, 781

2714 Pears, Melba, 781

2715 Pears, pralined, 781

2716 Pears, religieuse, 781

2717 Pears with rum, 781

2718 Pears i la Reine Emma, 781
2186 Peas, 655

2189 Peas, English style, 656

2190 Peas, with butter, 656

2191 Peas, 4 la Bonne Femme or Paysanne,

656

2192 Peas, Flemish style, 656

2193 Peas, French style, 656

2194 Peas with mint, 657
770 Perch, 262

598 Petite Marmite, 215

1828 Pheasant, 580

1829 Pheasant, Alcantara fashion, 580

1830 Pheasant, Angoumoise style, 581

1831 Pheasant, Bohemian style, 581

1832 Pheasant en casserole, 581

1833 Pheasant en cocotte, 581

1834 Pheasant, Chartreuse fashion, 582

1835 Pheasant with sauerkraut, 582

1836 Pheasant with cream, 582

1837 Pheasant k la Demidoff, 582

1838 Pheasant, Georgian style, 583

1839 Pheasant, broiled and devilled, 583

1840 Pheasant a la Kotschoubey, 583

1841 Pheasant, Norman style, 583

1842 Pheasant k la Perigueux, 584

1843 Pheasant, Regency, 584

1844 Pheasant a la Sainte-Alliance, 584

1845 Pheasant, Souvaroff, 585

1852 Pheasant, cold, Bohemian style, 587

1855 Pheasant, cold, Croix de Berny, 588

1856 Pheasant, cold, en Daube, 588

1969 Pheasant, roast, 612

1970 Pheasant, roast, Pirigourdine, 612
1871 Pheasant, roast, Gunzbourg, 612

Pies—
2396 Pies, raised, the lining and covering

of, 707
1392 Pie, pork, 457
1714 Pie, raised, chicken, 541
1660 Pie, chicken, 524
1752 Pie, hot, raised, Duckling
1824 Pies, raised, hare, S77
1849 Pie, hot raised, pheasant, 586

1775 Pigeons and squabs, 563

1776 Pigeons and squabs, i la Bordelaise,

563

1777 Pigeons and squabs, en casserole,

peasant style, 564

1778 Pigeons and squabs, Chartreuse

fashion, 564

INDEX

869

No..of
Recipe

1779 Pigeons and squabs, en Crapaudine,

564

1780 Pigeons and squabs, en compote,

564

1781 Pigeons and squabs, pie, 565

1782 Pigeons and squabs, Vol-au-vent

of. See Vol-au-Vent.
1966 Pigeons and squabs, roasts, 611
756 Pike, 261
1040 Pike, quenelles of, Lyonnese style,

35°
1354 Pilaff of mutton, Turkish style, 449
1381 Pilaff of lamb, 455

1678 Pilaff of chicken, 530

1679 Pilaff of chicken, Grecian style, 530

1680 Pilaff of chicken. Oriental, 530

1681 Pilaff of chicken, Parisian style, 530

1682 Pilaff of chicken, Turkish style, 530

2197 Pimentos, 657

2198 Pimentos, stuffed, 657

2199 Pimentos, for garnishing, 657

2200 Pimentos, pur^e of, 657

2558 Pineapple a la Favorite, 745

2559 Pineapple k la Cond^, 745

2560 Pine-apple a la Creole, 745

2668 Pine-apple, Georgette, 772

2669 Pine-apple, Virginia, 772

2670 Pine-apple, Ninon, 772
2670a Pine-apple a la Royale, 772
2938 Pine-apple, iced water, 817

1938 Pintails, 604

1981 Pintails, roast, 614

1939 Plovers, golden, 604

1982 Plovers, roast, 615

249 Poachings, 11 1
Poached eggs. See Eggs.

250 Peelings, 113
2294 Polenta, 675

600 Poule au Pot Henri IV., 215
1383 Pork, 456

1397 Pig, sucking, 459

1398 Pig, sucking, roast, stuffed, English

style, 459

1401 Pig's ears, i la Rouennaise, 460

1402 Pig's ears, Ste. Menehould, 460

1403 Pig's trotters, truffled, 460

1404 Pig's trotters, Ste. M^nihould, 460
1383/ Pork, fresh, roast leg of, 456
1953 Pork, roast, 608

1391 Pork, salted, boiled, English style,

2201 Potatoes, 658

219 Potato croquettes, preparation for, 92

2210 Potato croquettes, 660

220 Potatoes, Dauphine, preparation for,

92

2211 Potatoes, Dauphme, 660

221 Potatoes, Duchess, preparation for,

93

2212 Potatoes, Duchess, 660

222 Potatoes, Marquise, preparation for,

93
2231 Potatoes, Marquise, 663

2202 Potatoes, English style, 658

2203 Potatoes, Anna, 658

No. of
Recipe

2204 Potatoes, Anna, for garnishing, 659

2205 Potatoes, Berny, 659

2206 Potatoes, Baker style, 659

2207 Potatoes, Byron, 659

2208 Potatoes, Chateau, 659

2209 Potatoes with cream, 659

2213 Potatoes, Duchess, with Cheddar

cheese, 660

2214 Potatoes, melting, 660

2215 Potatoes, match-shaped, 660

2216 Potatoes, Chatouillard, 660

2217 Potatoes, chipped, 661

2218 Potatoes, collerette, 661

2219 Potatoes, straw, 661

2220 Potatoes, Pont-Neuf, 661

2221 Potatoes, souffled, 66l

2222 Potatoes, gratin of, Dauphine style,

661

2223 Potatoes, Hungarian style, 662

2224 Potatoes, gratined, 662

2225 Potatoes with salted bacon, 662

2226 Potatoes, Lorette, 662

2227 Potatoes, Lyonnese, 663

2228 Potatoes, Macaire, 663

2229 Potatoes, Maire, 663

2230 Potatoes, Maitre-d'H&tel, 663

2232 Potatoes with mint, 663

2233 Potatoes, Mireille, 664

2234 Potatoes, Mirette, 664

2235 Potatoes, Mousseline, 664

2236 Potatoes, Noisettes, 664

2237 Potatoes, Parisian style, 664

2238 Potatoes with Parmesan, 664

2239 Potatoes, Persill6es, 664

2240 Potatoes, Robert, 665

2241 Potatoes, Roxelane, 665

2242 Potatoes, Savoyard e, 665

2243 Potatoes, St. Florentin, 665

2244 Potatoes, Schneider, 665

2245 Potatoes, Suzette, 665

2246 Potatoes, Voisin, 666

2247 Potatoes, Nana, for garnishing, 666
2187 Potatoes, sweet, 655

Pot-au-Feu. SeeConsomm^(No.599)
1444 Poultry, a quick way of serving
poultry hot, 474

1921 Prairie hen, 602

218 Proiiteroles, for soup, 90
235 Proven9ale, 96

1922 Ptarmigan, 602

2479 Puddings, 729

1943 Pudding, Yorkshire, 605

2324 Pudding, cheese and bread, 68l

2480 Pudding, with cream-almond pud-

ding, 730

2481 Pudding, with cream, English

almond pudding, 730

2482 Pudding, biscuit, 730

2483 Pudding, cabinet, 730

2484 Pudding, fruit, 731

2485 Pudding, apple, 731

2486 Pudding, plum, 732

2487 Pudding, American, 732

2488 Pudding, marrow, 732

2489 Pudding, English, bread, 733

Syo

INDEX

No. of
Recipe

2490 Pudding, French, bread, 733

2491 Pudding, German, bread, 733

2492 Pudding, Scotch, bread, 733

2493 Pudding, tapioca, 733

2494 Pudding, sago, 734

2495 Pudding, semolina, 734

2496 Pudding, vermicelli, 734

2497 Pudding, fresh, noodle, 734

2498 Puddings, tapioca, sago, semolina,

etc., English style, 734

2499 Pudding, Brazilian, 734

2500 Pudding, Chevreuse, 734

2501 Pudding, rice, 734

2502 Pudding, rice, English style, 735

2503 Pudding, rice and chocolate, 735

2504 Pudding, Saxon, 735

2505 Pudding, almond, 735

2506 Pudding, Denise, 735

2507 Pudding, lemon, 736

2508 Pudding, liqueur, 736

2509 Pudding, Indian, 736

2510 Pudding, chestnut, 737

2511 Pudding, Mousseline, 737

2512 Pudding, Regency, 737

2513 Pudding, a la Reine, 737

2514 Pudding, a la Royale, 737

2515 Pudding, Sans-Souci, 738

2516 Pudding, Vesuvian, 738

2517 Pudding, roly-poly, 738

2658 Puddings, cold, 768

2659 Pudding, : cold, Bohemian style,

769

2660 Pudding, cold. Diplomatic, 76 9

2661 Pudding, cold, with fruit, 769

2662 Pudding, cold, Malakoff, 769

2663 Pudding, cold, Nesselrode, 770

2664 Pudding, cold, Richelieu, 770

2665 Pudding, cold, or creme, Reine des

F^es, 771

2919 Pudding, iced, 811

2920 Pudding, iced, de Castries, 811

2921 Pudding, iced, Marie Rose, 8l I

2922 Pudding, iced, Miramar, 8u

2923 Pudding, iced, Seymour, 812
Pullets. See Capons.

2932 Punch, iced Roman, 815

2944 Punch with Kirsch, 818

2945 Punch with rum, 818

2946 Punch, Marchioness, 818

2947 Punch, iced, 819

614 Punch, Milk, with turtle soup, 219
239 Purees, 99

2091 Pur^e of chicory, 637

2037 Pur^e of artichoke bottoms, 626

2273 Faiie of Jerusalem artichokes, other-
wise Palestine, 670

2114 Pur6e of cauliflower, otherwise
Dubarry, 643

2119 Pur^e of Brussels sprouts, other-
wise Flemish, 643

2131 Puree of stachys, otherwise Japanese,

64s
2146 Pur^e of broad beans, 648
2154 Pur^e of white beans, otherwise

Soissonnaise, 649

No. of

Recipe

2155 Puree of flageolets, otherwise
Musard, 649

2159 Pur^e of French beans, 650

2167 Puree of lentils, otherwise Esau, 651

2175 Pur^e of chestnuts, otherwise Cler-
mont, 652

2184 Pur^e of onions, otherwise Soubise,

6SS

2195 Puree of fresh peas, otherwise St.

Germain, 657

2196 Puree of fresh peas, moulded for

garnishes, 657
2186 Puree of Oxalis, otherwise Bre-

silienne, 657
2200 Pur^e of potatoes, 665
2269 Puree of tomatoes, 670
2179 Puree of turnips, 654
2062 Pur^e of carrots, otherwise Cr^cy,

222
2067 Puree of Celeriac, 633
2066 Puree of celery, 632
2079 Puree of mushrooms.
Puree (For the soups so called, see
Nos. 239, 630 to 649, and 658 to 661.)

Q-

883 Quails, 595

884 Quails en casserole, 595

885 Quails with cherries, 595

886 Quails, Dauphine, 595

887 Quails, Figaro, 596

888 Quails, Grecian style, 596

889 Quails, Juliette, 596

890 Quails, Judic, 596

891 Quails, Lucullus, 596

892 Quails, Norman style, 596

893 Quails, with new peas, Roman style,

597

894 Quails with grapes, 597

895 Quails, Richelieu, 597

896 Quails, rizotto of, 597

897 Quails under the aslies, 598

898 Quails, Souvaroff; 598

899 Quails, Turkish style, 598

902 Quails, cold, in cases, 599

903 Quails, iced, with Granites, 599

904 Quails, cold, Cerisette, 599

905 Quails, cold. Carmen, 600

906 Quails, cold, Maryland, 600

907 Quails, cold, Reine Am^Iie, 600

908 Quails, Romance, 600

909 Quails, fillets of, with golden apples,

600

910 Quails, cold, Cecilia, 600

911 Quails, cold, with Chateau- Yquem,

600

912 Quails, cold, tangerines of, 601

913 Quails, cold, Nillson, 6oi

914 Quails, cold, Richelieu, 601
916 Quails, cold, Vendangeuse, 601
973 Quails, roast, 613

196 Quasi, or thick end of loin of veal or
chump, 398

IKDEX

871

No. of
Recipe
205 Quenelles, or forcemeat balls-»

1657 Quenelles of chicken, Morland, 524

1658 Quenelles of chicken k la d'Uz^s, 524
2249 Quenelles of potatoes, 666

R.

1826 Rabbits, S78

1968 Rabbits, young, roast, 612

376 Radishes, 159
178 Raspings, 73

2296 Ravioli, 676

2297 Ravioli, the preparation of, 676
2940 Red currants, water, 817

379 Red mullets, a I'Orientale, 156
1035aRed mullets, broiled, 347
1035bRed mullets, Bordelaise, 348
1035cRed mullets with fennel, 348
1035dRed mullets, Ni9oise, 348
1035eRed mullets in paper, 348

377 Relishes, 159

1143 Ribs of beef and upper fillet, 378
1947 Ribs of beef and upper fillet, roast,
606

2251 Rice, au blanc, 666

2252 Rice, au gras, 667

2253 Rice, Grecian style, 667

2254 Rice, Indian style, 667

2255 Rice, pilaff, 667

2256 Rice for the stuffing of fowls, 667

2257 Rice, Turkish style, 667

2258 Rice, Rizotto k la Piemontaise, 668
2404 Rice preparations for sweets, 712

2739 Rice, Empress, 786

2740 Rice, Maltaise, 786

378 Rillettes and Rillons, 159
2518 Rissoles, 738

Roasts, grills and fryings, 1 16

253 Roasts, spitted, 117

254 Roasts, oven, 117
Roasts and salads, 605

256 Roasts, the dishing and accompani-
ments of, 119

1942 Roasts, the dishing and accompani-
ments of, 605

1946 Roast, butchers' meat, 606

1791 Roebuck, saddle and legs of, 568

1792 Roebuck, saddle and legs of, German

style, 568

1793 Roebuck, saddle and legs of, Baden-

Baden, 568

1794 Roebuck, saddle and legs of, with

cherries, 569

1795 Roebuck, saddle and legs of, Cum-

berland, 569

1796 Roebuck, saddle and legs of, a la

Creole, 569

1797 Roebuck, saddle and legs of, k la

Beaujeu, 569

1798 Roebuck, saddle and legs of, with

juniper berries, 569

1799 Roebuck, saddle and legs of, with

various sauces, 570

No. of
Recipe
1808 Roebuck, jugged, 571

996 Roes, soft, of carp —

997 Roes, soft, of carp, a la Meuniere,

998 Roe, barquettes of soft, a la Floren-

tine.

999 Roe, cases of soft, k la Nantua.
Roux, 16

19 Roux, brown, 16

20 Roux, pale, 18

21 Roux, white, 18

206 Royales, ordinary, 87

207 Royale, Deslignac, or Cream

Royale, 87

208 Royale of chicken, 87

209 Royale of game, 88

210 Royale offish, 88

211 Royale of carrots, or Creyy, 88

212 Royale of fresh peas, or St. Gfer-

main, 88

213 Royale, various, 88

214 Royale, the dividing up of, 89
1152 Rumpsteak, 382

S.

1298 Saddle of mutton, 482

1359 Saddle of Pauillac lamb, 449

1360 Saddle of Pauillac lamb, cold,

Edward VII. , 449

1181 Saddle of veal, 394

1182 Saddle of veal. Chartreuse fashion,

39S

1183 Saddle of veal, Metternich, 395

1184 Saddle of veal, Nelson, 396

1 185 Saddle of veal, Orientale, 396

1186 Saddle of veal. Piedmont style, 397

1187 Saddle of veal. Prince Orloff, 397

1188 Saddle of veal, Romanoff, 397

1189 Saddle of veal, Tosca, 397

1190 Saddle of veal. Renaissance, 397

1191 Saddle of veal, Talleyrand, 398

1192 Saddle of veal, cold, 398
Salads, 615

1984 Salads, the seasoning of, 615

1985 Salads, simple, 616

1986 Salad, beetroot, 616

1987 Salad, celery, 617

1988 Salad, Celeriac, 617

1989 Salad, cauliflower, 617

1990 Salad, red cabbage, 617

1991 Salad, cucumber, 617

1992 Salad, dry vegetable (white beans,

lentils, &c.), 617

1993 Salad, potato, 617

1994 Salad, potato, Parisian style, 617

1995 Salad, tomato, 618

1996 Salad, compound, 618

1997 Salad, compound, German style, 618

1998 Salad, compound, Americanstyle, 618

1999 Salad, Andalouse, 618

2000 Salad, Belle Fermiere, 619
1713 Salad, chicken, 541

2001 Salad, Cressoniere, 619

2002 Salad, Isabelle, 619

872

INDEX

No. of
Recipe

2003 Salad, Danicheff, 619

2004 Salad, half-mourning, 619

2005 Salad, d'Estr^e, 619

2006 Salad, Flemish, 619

2007 Salad, Francillon, 620

2008 Salad, Italian, 620

2009 Salad, Jockey Club, 620

2010 Salad, Lakm^, 620

2011 Salad, vegetable, 620

2012 Salad, Lorette, 620

2013 Salad, Mignon. 621

2014 Salad, Monte Christo, 621

2015 Salad, Ni9oise, 621 -

2016 Salad, Opera, 621

2017 Salad, Parisian, 621

2018 Salad, Mascotte, 621

2019 Salad, Rachel, 622

2020 Salad, Regency, 622

2021 Salad, Russian, 622

2022 Salad, Sicilian, 622

2023 Salad, Tredern, 622

2024 Salad, truffles, 622

2025 Salad, white truffles, 622

2026 Salad, Victoria, 623

2027 Salad, Waldorf, 623

381 Salads for hors-d'oeuvres, 159

382 Salami (Gotha or Milan), 160

1763 Salmis of Rouen duck, k la Rouen-

naise, 560
1847 Salmis of pheasant, 585
1877 Salmis of woodcock or snipe, 593
385 Salmon, smoked, 160

784 Salmon, boiled, 268

785 Salmon, broiled, 268

786 Salmon, k la Meuniere, 268

787 Salmon, cadgeree of, 268

788 Salmon, cutlets, 269

789 Salmon, Coulibiac, 269

790 Salmon, darnes of, Chambord, 270

791 Salmon, darnes of, Daumont, 27 1

792 Salmon, darnes of, LucuUus, 271

793 Salmon, darnes of, Nesselrode, 27 1

794 Salmon, darnes of, R%ence, 272

795 Salmon, darnes of, Royale, 272

796 Salmon, dames of, Valois, 272

797 Salmon, mousseline of, 272

798 Salmon, mousseline of, Alexandria,

272

799 Salmon, mousseline of, Tosca, 273

800 Salmon, cold, 273

801 Salmon, darnes of, cold, k la Royale,

274

802 Salmon, darnes of, cold, Parisian

style, 274

803 Salmon, dames of, cold, Riga, 274

804 Salmon, dames of, cold, in Belle-

Vue, 27s

805 Salmon, darnes of, cold, with Cham-

bertin, 275

806 Salmon, dames of, cold, Norwegian,

807 Salmon, cutlets of, cold, 276

808 Salmon, medallions of, cold, 276

809 Salmon, mayonnaise of, cold, 277

810 Salmon, salad, 277

No.,of
Recipe

230 Salpicons, various, 95
188 Salt, 77

Salted beef. See Beef (Nos. 1 165,
1167, n68, 1175, I176, 1178,
1 178, 1 179)
1941 Sandpipers, 604
1982 Sandpipers, roast, 615

2236 Sandwiches, 685

2237 Sandwich, bookmakers', 685
380 Sardines and pilchards, 159
772 Sardines and pilchards, 262

2325 Sardines and pilchards, devilled, 683
Sauces, 15

22 Sauces, principal, brown sauces or

Espagnole, 18

23 Sauce, half-glaze, 19

24 Sauce, Lenten, brown, 19

25 Sauce, ordinary, Veloute, 20

26 Sauce, chicken, Velout^, 20
26aSauce, fish, Velout^ 20

27 Sauce, German, or thickened

Veloute, 21

28 Sauce, Bechamel, 21

29 Sauce, tomato, 22

30 Sauce, HoUandaise, 22

Sauces, small — small brown sauces,
24

31 Sauce, Bigarrade, 24

32 Sauce, Bordelaise, 25

33 Sauce, chasseur or hunter's, 25

34 Sauce, brown Chaudfroid, 25

35 Sauces, various, Chaudfroid, 26
1308 Sauce, Roebuck, 435

36 Sauce, devilled, 26

37 Sauce, devilled, Escoffier's, 26

38 Sauce, Geneva, 26
38aSauces, red-wine, remarks on, 27

39 Sauce, Grand Veneur, 28

40 Sauce, Italian, 28

43 Sauce, Lyonnese, 29

44 Sauce, Madeira, 29

45 Sauce, marrow, 29

46 Sauce aux pignons, 29

47 Sauce, Perigueux, 29

48 Sauce, piquante, 30

49 Sauce, ordinary Poivrade, 30

50 Sauce, Poivrade for venison, 30

51 Sauce, Provenfale, 31

52 Sauce, Robert, 31

53 Sauce, Escoffier's, Roberts, 31

54 Sauce, Rouennaise, 31

55 Sauce, Salmis, 32

56 Sauce, turtle, 32

57 Sauce, venison, 32
1261 Sauce, Zingara, 421

Sauces, white and compound, 33

58 Sauce, American, 33

59 Sauce, anchovy, 33

60 Sauce, Aurora, 33

61 Sauce, Aurora (Lenten), 33

62 Sauce, B^arnaise, 33

63 Sauce, Foyot or Valois, 34

64 Sauce, Choron, 34

65 Sauce, Bercy, 34

66 Sauce, butter, 34

INDEX

873

No. of
Recipe

67 Sauce, Bonnefoy, 34

68 Sauce, Caper, 35

69 Sauce, Cardinal, 35

70 Sauce with Mushroom, 35

71 Sauce, Ch&teaubriand, 35

72 Sauce, white Chaudfroid, 35

73 Sauce, Chaudfroid, ordinary, 36

74 Sauce, Chaudfroid, Aurora, 36

75 Sauce, Chaudfroid, Vert-pre, 36

76 Sauce, Chaudfroid, Lenten, 36

77 Sauce, Escoffier cherry, 37

78 Sauce, Chivry, 37

79 Sauce, Cream, 37

80 Sauce, Shrimp, 37

81 Sauce, Curry, 37

82 Sauce, Diplomate, 38

83 Sauce, herb, 38

84 Sauce, gooseberry, 38

85 Sauce, Hungarian, 38

86 Sauce, oyster, 39

87 Sauce, ivory or Albufera, 39

88 Sauce, Joinville, 39

89 Sauce, Maltese, 39

90 Sauce, Mariniere, 39

91 Sauce, Mornay, 39

92 Sauce, Mousseline, 40

93 Sauce, Mousseuse, 40

94 Sauce, Mustard, 40

95 Sauce, Nantua, 40

96 Sauce, New- Burg, 40

97 Sauce, New-Burg (another method),

41

98 Sauce, Hazel-nut, 42

99 Sauce, Normande, 42

100 Sauce, Oriental, 42

101 Sauce, Poulette, 42

102 Sauce, Ravigote, 42

103 Sauce, Regency, 42

104 Sauce, Soubise, 43

105 Sauce, Soubise, with rice, 43

106 Sauce, Soubise, tomated, 43
106a Sauce, Supreme, 44

107 Sauce, Venetian, 44

108 Sauce, Villeroy, 44

109 Sauce, Villeroy, Soubis^e, 44

110 Sauce, Villeroy, tomato, 44

111 Sauce, white wine, 45
Sauces, hot English, 45

112 Sauce, apple, 45

113 Sauce, bread, 45

114 Sauce, celery, 46

115 Sauce, cranberry, 46

116 Sauce, fennel, 46

117 Sauce, egg, 46

118 Sauce, Scotch egg, with melted

butter, 46

119 Sauce, horse-radish or Albert, 47

120 Sauce, reform, 47
Sauces, French, cold, 48

121 Sauce, Aioli, 48

122 Sauce, Andalouse, 48

123 Sauce, Bohemian, 48

124 Sauce, Genoa, 48

125 Sauce, Gribiche, 49

126 Sauce, Mayonnaise, 49

No. of
Recipe

127 Sauce, cleared Mayonnaise, 5°
299a Sauce, mustard, with cream, 142

128 Sauce, whisked. Mayonnaise, 50

129 Sauce, Ravigote or Vinaigrette, 51

130 Sauce, Remolade, 51

131 Sauce, green, 51

132 Sauce, Vincent, 51
Sauces, English cold, 52

133 Sauce, Cambridge, 52

134 Sauce, Cumberland, 52

135 Sauce, Gloucester, 52

136 Sauce, mint, 52

137 Sauce, Oxford, 53

138 Sauce, horse-radish, 53
Sauces, hot, sweet —

2406 Sauce, English, or custard, 713

2407 Sauce, chocolate, 713

2408 Sauce, Sabayon, 713

2409 Sauce, Sabayon, with fruit, 713

2410 Sauce, apricot, 714

2411 Sauce, red-currant, 714

2412 Sauce, orange, 714

2413 Sauce, hazel-nut, 714

2414 Sauce, Mirabelle plum or greengage,

714

2415 Sauce, cherry, 714

2416 Sauce, raspberry, 714

2417 Sauce, strawberry, 714

2418 Syrups, thickened, 714

2612 Sauces and garnishes for cold sweets,

756

2613 Sauce, cherry, 757
2097 Sauerkraut, 639

1412 Sausages, English, 463

1413 Sausages, with white wine, 463

1414 Sauss^es, Frankfort and Strasburg,

463

383 Sausages, Aries, Bologna, or large

Lyon, 160

384 Sausages, Foie gras, i6o
251 Sautes, 115

1279 Sautes of veal, 426

1280 Saute of veal k la Marengo, 426

1281 Saute of veal. Hunter's style, 427

1282 Saute of veal, Printanier, 427

1283 Sauti of veal, Catalane, 427

1284 Sautes of veal, various, 428
1380 Saute of lamb, Printanier, 455
1848 Saut^ of pheasant, 586

2298 Savories, 678

Savoy cabbages. See Cabbages (No.
2ICX3, etc.)
2610 Schaleth, Jewish style, 755
2107 Scotch-kale, 641
2326 Scotch-woodcock, 683

Scrambled eggs. See Eggs (No. 459,
etc.)
2120 Sea-kale, 643
1141 Sirloin of beef, 377
1949 Sirloin of beef, roast, 607
753 Shad, 261
180 Shallots, 74

1323 Sheep's tongue, 439

1324 Sheep's trotters, 439

1325 Sheep's trotters, fritters of, 440

874

INDEX

No. of
Recipe

1326 Sheep's trotters a la Poulette, 440

1327 Sheep's trotters, Rouennaise, 440

1328 Sheep's trotters, Tyrolienne, 440

2926 Sherbets, 813

2927 Sherbets, composition for, 813

2928 Sherbets, various, 814

2929 Sherbet, Sicilian, 814
336 Shrimps and Prawns, 150
979 Shrimps and Prawns, 333
771 Skate, 262

1665 Skewers of chickens' livers, 527
346 Smelts, marinaded, 151

1002 Smelts, 338

1003 Smelts, English style, 338

1004 Smelts, gratined, 339

1005 Smelts, broiled, 339

1006 Smelts, mousseline of, 339

1007 Smelts, hot mousse of, a la Royale,

339

Smoked beef. See Beef (No. 315)
1874 Snipes, 592
1882 Snipe, cold, 592
1978 Snipe, roast, 614

Soles, 281

818 Sole, Alice, 281

819 Sole, Mornay, 282

820 Sole, Mornay des Proven9aux, 282

821 Sole with champagne, 282

822 Sole, Colbert, 282

823 Sole a la Deaumont, 283

824 Sole, gilded, 283

825 Sole, Duglere, 283

826 Sole, broiled, 283

827 Sole, broiled, with oysters, Ameri-

can style, 283

828 Sole, farmer's style, 284

829 Sole, Dutch style, 284

830 Sole, St. Germain, 284

831 Sole, Florentine, 284

832 Sole, Montreuil, 284

833 Sole, gratined, 285

834 Sole, with Chan;ibertin, 285

835 Sole, with great wines, remarks

relative to, 285

836 Sole, MontgolHer, 285

837 Sole, on the dish, 286

838 Sole, Regency, 286

839 Sole, Portuguese, 286

840 Sole, Cubat, 287

841 Sole, with oysters, 287

842 Sole, Meuniere, 287

843 Sole, Meuniere, with cucumbers,

otherwise Doria, 287

844 Sole, Meuniere, with egg-plants,

287

845 Sole, Meuniere, with Cepes, 287

846 Sole, Meuniere, with Morels, 287

847 Sole, Meuniere, with grapes, 288

848 Sole, Meuniere, with orange, 288

849 Sole, Lutece, 288

850 Sole, Murat, 288

851 Sole, Provenfale, 288

852 Sole, Arlesienne, 289

853 Sole, Royale, 289

854 Sole, Russian style, 289

No. of
Recipe

855 Sole, Richelieu, 289

856 Sole, Normande, 290

857 Sole, Marguery, 290

858 Sole, Mariniere, 290

859 Sole, with white wine, 290

860 Sole, Dieppoise, 291

861 Sole, Diplomate, 291

862 Sole, Bonne Femme, 291

863 Sole, Parisienne, 292

864 Sole, Nantua, 292

865 Sole, fillets of, American style, 292

866 Sole, fillets of, English style, 292

867 Sole, fillets of, Andalouse, 293

868 Sole, fillets of. Caprice, 293

869 Sole, fillets of, Catalane, 293

870 Sole, fillets of, Clarence, 294

871 Sole, fillets of, with mushrooms, 294

872 Sole, fillets of, with shrimps, 294

873 Sole, fillets of, Chauchat, 294

874 Sole, fillets of, Bercy, 294

875 Sole, fillets of, Dejazet, 295

876 Sole, fillets of. Grand Duke, 295

877 Sole, fillets of, Joinville, 295

878 Sole, fillets of, Judic, 296

879 Sole, fillets of, Hungarian style, 296

880 Sole, fillets of. Lady Egmont, 296

881 Sole, fillets of, Marinette, 297

882 Sole, fillets of, Mary-Stuart, 297

883 Sole, fillets of, Mignonnette, 297

884 Sole, fillets of, Mimi, 297

885 Sole, fillets of, Mexican style, 298

886 Sole, fillets of, Mirabeau, 298

887 Sole, fillets of, Miramar, 298

888 Sole, fillets of, with oysters, 299

889 Sole, fillets of. Nelson, 299

890 Sole, fillets of, New-Burg, 299

891 Sole, fillets of, Orientale, 299

892 Sole, fillets of, Persane, 299

893 Sole, fillets of, Orly, 300

894 Sole, fillets of, Olga or Otero, 300

895 Sole, fillets of, Polignac, 300

896 Sole, fillets of, Paysanne, 300

897 Sole, fillets of (Pilaw de), k la

Levantine, 301

898 Sole, fillets of. Pompadour, 301

899 Sole, fillets of, Rachel, 301

900 Sole, fillets of, Venetian style, 301

901 Sole, fillets of, Verdi, 302

902 Sole, fillets of, Victoria, 302

903 Sole, fillets of, Veronique, 302

904 Sole, fillets of, Walewska, 302

905 Sole, fillets of, Wilhelmina, 303

906 Soles, mousseline of, 303

907 Soles, turban of fillets of, Villaret,

303

908 Sole, turban of fillets of, au Saumon

Villaret, 304

909 Sole, timbale of fillets of, Cardinal,

304.

910 Sole, timbale of fillets of, Carmelite,

304

911 Sole, timbale of fillets of, Grimaldi,

30s

912 Sole, timbale of fillets of, Careme,

30s

INDEX

875

No. of
Recipe

913 Sole, timbale of fillets of, Marquise,

306

914 Soles, the preparation of paupiettes

of, or of various fish, 306

915 Sole, aspic of fillets of, 307

916 Sole, aspic of fillets of, another

method, 308

917 Sole, border of fillets of, Italian

style, 308

918 Sole, fillets of. Calypso, 309

919 Sole, fillets of, Charlotte, 309

920 Sole, fillets of, Moscovite, 309

921 Sole, fillets of, in domino, 310

922 Sole, fillets of, dished on mousses,

310

2185 Sorrel, 655

2186 Sorrel, wild, or Oxalis, 655
1033 Souffle of morue, 346

1683 Souffle of chicken, 531

1684 Souffle of raw chicken meat, 531

1685 Souffle of cooked chicken meat,

53; ...

1686 Souffle of chicken, a la Perigord,

531
1731 Souffle of foie gras, 550
1764 Souffle of Rouen duck, 560
1771 Souffle of duckling with oranges,

562
1820 Souffle of hare, 575
1851 Souffle of pheasant, 5S7
2050 Souffle of egg-plant, 629
2092 Souffli of chicory, 638

2139 Souffle of spinach, 647

2140 Souffle of spinach with truffles, 647
2165 Souffle of lettuces, 651

2170 Souffle of maize with cream, 652

2171 Souffli of maize with paprika, 652
2250 Souffle of potatoes, 666

2270 Souffle of tomatoes, Neapolitan

style, 670
2274 Souffle of Jerusalem artichokes,

670
2295 Souffle, Pi^montaise, 675
2295a Souffle with Parmesan, 676
2405 Souffle, preparations of sweet, 712

2519 Souffle, sweet, 739

2520 Souffle, fruit, in a crust, 739

2521 Souffle, almond, 739

2522 Souffle, fresh almond, 739

2523 Souffle with filberts, 739

2524 Souffle k la Camargo, 739

2525 Souffle, Paulette, 739

2526 Souffle, cherry, 739

2527 Souffle, strawberry, 740

2528 Souffle with pomegranate, a I'Orien

tale, 740

2529 Souffle, Java, 740

2530 Souffle, L^rina, 740

2531 Souffle with liqueurs, 740

2532 Souffle, LucuUus, 740

2533 Souffle, Hilda, 740

2534 Souffle d'Orlians, 740

2535 Souffle, Palmyre, 741

2536 Souffl6, pralined, 741

2537 Souffle, Rothschild, 741

No. of
Recipe

2538 Souffli a la Royale, 741

2539 Souffle, Vanilla, 741

2540 Souffle with violets, 741

2924 Souffles, iced, 812

2925 Soufflfe, iced, the moulding of, 812
Soups, 197

216 Soups with pastes, directions for,
90

236 Soups, the preparation of, 97

237 Soups, clear (see also Consommfa),

98

238 Soups, thick, 99

239 Puree, 99

630 Puree, Cr^cy, 225

631 Puree, Velours, 225

632 Puree of C^leriac, 225

633 Puree of Brussels sprouts, otherwise

Flemish, 225

634 Puree of cauliflowers, otherwise

Dubarry, 225

635 Pur^e of stachys, otherwise Japa-

nese puree, 225

636 Puree of flageolets, otherwise

Musart, 227

637 Pur^e of white beans, otherwise

Soissonnaise, 227

638 Pur^e of French beans, otherwise

Cormeilles, 227

639 Pur^e of red beans, otherwise

Conde, 228

640 Pur^e of lentils, otherwise Conti,

228

641 Pur^e of turnips, otherwise Fre-

neuse, 228

642 Puree of sorrel and vermicelli with

cream, 229

643 Puree of sorrel and sago with cream

229

644 Puree of sorrel and semolina with

cream, 229

645 Pur^e of sorrel and tapioca with

cream, 229

646 Purees, Nos. 642, 643, 644, 645,

Remarks upon, 229

647 Puree with crusts, 230

648 Puree of fresh peas, otherwise St.

Germain, 230

649 Puree of fresh peas with mint, 231

650 Soup, Ambassadors, 231

651 Soup, Camelia, 231

652 Soup, Fontanges, 231

653 Soup, Lamballe, 231

654 Soup, Longchamps, 231

655 Soup, Marigny, 232

656 Soup, Marcilly, 232

657 Soup, Saint-Marceaux, 232

658 Puree of potatoes, otherwise Par-

mentier, 232

659 Puree of tomatoes, otherwise Portu-

guese, 232

660 Pur?e of tomatoes and tapioca, other-

wise Waldeze, 233

661 Puree of Jerusalem artichokes,

otherwise Palestine, 233
241 Bisques, loo

876

INDEX

No. of
Recipe

662 Bisque of crayfish, 233

663 Bisque of lobster, 234

664 Bisque of shrimps, 234
240 Cullises, 100

665 CuUis of game. Hunter's style,

234

666 CuUis of thrushes with black

bread ; otherwise a I'Ardennaise,

23s

667 Cullis of grouse and hazel-hens, old

style, 235

668 Cullis of wild rabbit with curry, 235

669 Cullis of partridges a la Mancelle,

236

670 Cullis of fowl a la Reine, 236

242 Velout6, loi

671 Velout^, Agnes Sorel, 237

672 Veloute of Blanchailles with curry,

237

673 Velout6 a la Carmelite, 238

674 Veloute of carrots a la Nivernaise,

238

675 Veloute, Countess, 238

676 Veloute, with cucumbers, a la

Danoise, 238

677 Velouti, Cressonniere, 239

678 Veloute, Dame Blanche, 239

679 Veloute, d'Artois, 239

680 Veloute of smelts, 239

681 Veloute of smelts, Joinville, 240

682 Veloute of smelts. Princess, 240

683 Veloute, Sicilian style, 240

684 Veloute of lobster, cardinal, 241

685 Veloute of lobster, Cleveland, 241

686 Veloute of lobster, Indian style, 24 1

687 Veloute of lobster, Orientale, 241

688 Veloute of lobster, Paprika, 242

689 Veloute of lobster, Persane, 242

690 Veloute, with oysters, 242

691 Veloute, Isoline, 243

692 Veloute, Mary Louise, 243

693 Veloute, Mary Stuart, 243

694 Veloute of purslain, 243

695 Veloute, Sultana, 243

695a Veloute, cold, special for suppers,

244

243 Creams, 102

696 Cream of artichokes, with hazel-

nut butter, 244

697 Cream of asparagus, otherwise

Argenteuil, 245

698 Cream of sprew or green asparagus,

24s

699 Cream of green wheat, otherwise

Ceres, 245

700 Cream of celery, 245

701 Cream of chervil, otherwise Che-

vreuse, 246

702 Cream of Belgian chicory, other-

wise Bruxelloise, 246

703 Cream of spinach, otherwise Floren-

tine, 246

704 Cream of new broad beans, 246

705 Cream of yams, otherw'se Bre-

silienne, 247

No. ot
Recipe

706 Cream of lettuces, otherwise Judic,

247

707 Cream of maize, otherwise Wash-

ington, 247

708 Cream of sorrel, with oats, 247

709 Cream of sorrel, with barley, 248

710 Cream of oxalis, 248

711 Cream of rice, 248

712 Cream of barley, 248

713 Cream, Princess, 249

714 Cream, Reine-Margot, 249

244 Soups, special, 102

715 Soup, Aurora, 249

716 Soup, Bagration, fat, 249

717 Soup, Bagration, Lenten, 250

718 Soup, Choiseul, 250

719 Soup, Compiegne, 250

720 Soup, Derby, 250

721 Soup, Diana, 251

722 Soup, Elisa, 251

723 Soup, Favori, 251

724 Soup, Germiny, 251

725 Soup, with herbs, 252

726 Soup, Jubilee or Balwet, 252

727 Soup, Longchamps, 252

728 Soup, Lavalliere, 252

729 Soup, Madeleine, 253

730 Soup, Miss Betsy, 253

731 Soup, Montespan, 253

732 Soup, Nelusko, 253

733 Soup, Petit-Due, 253

734 Soup, Regency, 254

735 Soup, Rossolnick, 254

736 Soup, Sant^, 254

737 Soup, Sigurd, 255

738 Soup, Solferino, 255

739 Soup, Viviane, 255

740 Soup, Windsor, 255

245 Soups, vegetable, 102

246 Soup, foreign, 103

741 Soup, giblet, English style, 253

742 Soup, cherry, 253

743 Soup, Cocky-leeky, 256

744 Soup, chicken's liver, 257

745 Soup, Julienne Darblay, 257

746 Soup, Minestrone, 257

747 Soup, Mille-Fanti, 258

748 Soup, Mulligatawny, 258

749 Soup, Gombos or Okra, 258

750 Soup, Paysanne, 259

751 Soup, leek and potato, 259

752 Soup, kidney, 259
Spaghetti. See Macaroni.

181 Spices, 74

2132 Spinach, 645

2133 Spinach, English style, 645

2134 Spinach with cream, 645

2135 Spinach, gratined, 645

2136 Spinach i la Viroflay, 645

2137 Spinach, Subrics of, 645
2933 Spooms, 815

1297 Spine-marrow a la Tosca, 430
386 Sprats, 160

Spring Cabbages. See Cabbages
(No. 2107)

INDEX

877

No. of
Recipe
2125 Stachys, 645

2128 Stachys, sauted with butter, 645

2129 Stachys, with Veloute, 645

2130 Stachys, croquettes of, 645
Stag. See Roebuck.

1142 Steak, porter-house, 378
1144 Sirloin and rib steaks, 378
1152 Steak, rump, and beefsteak, 382
1164 Steak, stewed, and onions, 386

1169 Steak and kidney pudding, 387

1170 Steak pudding, 387

1171 Steak and oyster pudding, 387
773 Sterlet, 262

7 Stock, brown, or estouffade, 9

8 Stock, game, 10

9 Stock, brown veal, 10

10 Stock, white veal, and poultry, 10

11 Stock, white fish, 11

12 Stock, fish, with red wine, 12
Strawberries, 773

2673 Strawberries a la Crfele, 773

2674 Strawberries, Femina, 774

2675 Strawberries, Margaret, 774

2676 Strawberries, Marquise, 774

2677 Strawberries, Melba, 774

2678 Strawberries, Nina, 774

2679 Strawberries, Romanoff, 774

2680 Strawberries, Wilhelmine, 774

2681 Strawberries, L^rina, 774

2682 Strawberries, Reve de B^b6, 775

2683 Strawberries, Ritz, 775

2684 Strawberries, Cardinal, 775

2685 Strawberries, Zelna Kuntz, 775

1944 Stuffing, sage and onions, 606

1945 Stuffing, veal, 606
759 Sturgeon, 261

2541 Subrics of sweets, 741
2741 SuMoise of fruit, 786
1581 Supreme of chicken and pullets, 507

1584 Supreme of chicken, Agnes Sorel,

508

1585 Supreme of chicken, Alexandra, 509

1586 Supreme of chicken, Ambassadrice,

509

1587 Supreme of chicken, Arl^sienne, 509

1588 Supreme of chicken, Boistelle, 509

1589 Supreme of chicken, white, with

mushrooms, 509

1590 Supreme of chicken, brown, 510

1591 SuprSme of chicken, Chimay, 510

1592 Supreme of chicken, Cussy, 510

1593 Supreme of chicken, Doria, 510

1594 Supreme of chicken, Dreux, 510

1595 Supreme of chicken, scarlet, 510

1596 Supreme of chicken, Scotch style,

1597 Supreme of chicken. Favorite, 511

1598 Supreme of chicken, Financiere, 511

1599 Supreme of chicken, with artichoke-

bottoms, 511

1600 Supreme of chicken. Georgette,

S"

1601 Supreme of chicken, Henri IV., 511

1602 Supreme of chicken, Hungarian

style, 511

No. of
Recipe

1603 Supreme of chicken, Indian style,

512

1604 Supreme of chicken. Jardiniere, 512

1605 Supreme of chicken, Judic, 512

1606 Supreme of chicken, Mar^chale, 512

1607 Supreme of chicken, Maryland, 512

1608 Supreme of chicken, Montpensier,

Sp

1609 Supreme of chicken, Orly, 513

1610 Supreme of chicken, Orientale, 513

1611 Supreme of chicken in paper, 513

1612 Supreme of chicken, with Parmesan

cheese, 513

1613 Supreme of chicken, Polignac, 513

1614 Supreme of chicken, Pojarski, 513

1615 Supreme of chicken, Regency, 514

1616 Supreme of chicken, Richelieu, 514

1617 Supreme of chicken, Rossini, 514

1618 Supreme of chicken, Talleyrand, 514

1619 Supreme of chicken, Valanifay, 515

1620 Supreme of chicken, Valois, 515

1621 Supreme of chicken, Vemeuil, 515

1622 Supreme of chicken, Villeroy, 515
1710 Supreme of pullet, Jeannette, 540

1786 Supreme of squabs, Diplomate, 566

1787 Supreme of squabs, Saint-Clair, 566

1788 Supreme of squabs, Marigny, 566

1789 Supr8meof squabs, with truffles, 566
1846 Supreme of pheasant, 585

1861 Supreme of pheasant, k la Chatelaine,

589

1862 Supremes of pheasant, a la Gastro-

nome, 589
2609 Supreme of fruit, Gabrielle, 755

1218 Sweetbreads, veal, 407

1219 Sweetbreads, Attereaux of, a la

Villeroy, 407

1220 Sweetbread, Chartreuse of, 408

1221 Sweetbread, Bonne-Maman, 409

1222 Sweetbread, cripinettes of, 409

1223 Sweetbread, C^venole, 409

1224 Sweetbread, DemidofF, 409

1225 Sweetbread, coUops of, B^rangerei

410

1226 Sweetbread, coUops of, Favorite, 410

1227 Sweetbread, collops of. Grand Duke,

410

1228 Sweetbread, collops of, Judic, 41 1

1229 Sweetbread, collops of, Marechale,

411

1230 Sweetbread, broiled, 41 1

1231 Sweetbread, broiled, Camargo, 411

1232 Sweetbread, broiled, Gismonda, 411

1233 Sweetbread, broiled, Jocelyne, 412

1234 Sweetbread, St. Germain, 412

1235 Sweetbread of the gourmets, 412

1236 Sweetbread with crayfishes' tails, 412

1237 Sweetbread, Regency, 413

1238 Sweetbread under the ashes, 413

1239 Sweetbread, Toulousaine, 413

1240 Sweetbread, croustade of, 413

1241 Sweetbreads, hot raised pie of, 414

1242 Sweetbread, timbale of, 414

1243 Sweetbread, vol-au-vent of, 416

1244 Sweetbread k la Richelieu, cold, 416

878

INDEX

No. of
Recipe

1245 Sweetbread, cold a la Su^doise,

416

1246 Sweetbread, quoits of k I'Ecarlate

(». £-1.), 417

1379 Sweetbreads, Iamb, 454

Sweets. See Chapter XIX.

2571 Tangerines, 748

2687 Tangerines, Alraina, 776

2688 Tangerines with cream, 776

2689 Tangerines en Surprise, 776
2611 Tarts, English, 756

387 Tartlets and Barquettes, 160

2327 Tartlets, Agnes, 683

2328 Tartlets, Scotch style, 684

2329 Tartlets of haddock, 684

2330 Tartlets, Florentine, 684

2331 Tartlets, Marchioness, 684

2332 Tartlets, Raglan, 684

2333 Tartlets, Tosca, 684

2334 Tartlets, Vend6me, 684
1937 Teals, 604

1981 Teals, roast, 614

1772 Terrine of Rouen duck with aspic,

562

1773 Terrine of Rouen duck, k la Voisin,

563
1825 Terrine of hare, 578
1863 Terrine of pheasant, 589
2934 Timbale, the making of timbale

crusts, 706
1242 Timbale of sweetbreads, 414

1732 Timbale of foie-gras, Alsatian style,

55°

1733 Timbale, Cambacer^s, 550

1734 Timbale, Montesquieu, 551
1744 Timbale, Tzarine, S54

1872 Timbale of partridges, h la Diane,

592

1880 Timbale of woodcock, a la Metter-

nich, 594

1881 Timbale of woodcock, k la Nessel-

rode, 594
1900 Timbale of quails, Alexandra, 598
1915 Timbale of quails, Tzarine, 601
2279 Timbale of truffles, 671

2542 Timbale of pears, a la d'Arenberg,

742

2543 Timbale, Bourdaloue, 742

2544 Timbale, Mary-Louise, 742

2545 Timbale, Montmorency, 742

2546 Timbale, Parisian style, 742

2547 Timbale, Favart, 742

2742 Timbale, Fraisalia, 786

2743 Tivoli, with strawberries, 787

2304 Toast or Canapfe, various, 679

2305 Toast a la Cadogan, 680

2306 Toast of the gourmets, 680

2307 Toast, Ivanhoe, 680

2308 Toast, Scotch, 680

317 Toast, anchovy, 145

318 Toast, Caviare, 146

No. of
Recipe

319 Toast, shrimp, 146

320 Toast, City, 146

321 Toast, Danish, 146

322 Toast, crayfish, 146

323 Toast, tongue, 146

324 Toast, Lucile, 147

390 Tomatoes, mock, 162

391 Tomatoes, American, 162

392 Tomatoes, Monegasque, 162

393 Tomatoes, quartered, 162

2263 Tomatoes, broiled, 669

2264 Tomatoes, stuffed, 669

2265 Tomatoes, gratined, 669

2266 Tomatoes a la Proven9ale, 669

2267 Tomatoes a la Portugaise, 669

2268 Tomatoes, sautM, Proven9ale, 669
Tongues —

1153 Ox-tongues, 383

1154 Ox-tongues, with sauerkraut, 383

1155 Ox-tongues k la Bourgeoise, 383

1156 Ox-tongues, with broad beans, 383

1157 Ox-tongues, Flemish style, 383

1158 Ox-tongues, cold, 383
1287 Tongue, calPs, 428
1323 Tongue, sheep's, 439

334 Tongue cones, 1 50

1077 Tournedos, Algerian style, 364

1078 Tournedos, Alsatian style, 364

1079 Tournedos, Arl&ienne style, 365

1080 Tournedos, Baltimore, 365

1081 Tournedos, Bearnaise, 365

1082 Tournedos, Belle-Haene, 365

1083 Tournedos, Bercy, 365

1084 Tournedos, Bordelaise, 365

1085 Tournedos, Brabanfonne, 366

1086 Tournedos, Castillane, 366

1087 Tournedos, Cinderella, 366

1088 Tournedos, with mushrooms, 366

1089 Tournedos, Hunter's style, 366

1090 Tournedos, Choron, 367

1091 Tournedos, Coligny, 367

1092 Tournedos, Tarragon, 367

1093 Tournedos, Favorite, 367

1094 Tournedos, Florentine, 368

1095 Tournedos, Foresti^re, 368

1096 Tournedos, Gabrielle, 368

1097 Tournedos, Henri IV., 368

1098 Tournedos, Judic, 368

1099 Tournedos, Lakm6, 369

1100 Tournedos, Lesdiguieres, 369

1101 Tournedos, Lili, 369

1102 Tournedos, LucuUus, 369

1103 Tournedos, Madeleine, 369

1104 Tournedos, Mar&hale, 370

1105 Tournedos, Mary Louise, 370

1106 Tournedos, Mascotte, 370

1107 Tournedos, Mass^na, 370

1108 Tournedos, Menagere, 370

1109 Tournedos, Mexican style, 371

1110 Tournedos, Mikado, 371

1111 Tournedos, Mirabeau, 371

1112 Tournedos, Mireille, 371

1113 Tournedos, Mirette, 372

1114 Tournedos, Marrow, 372

1115 Tournedos, Montgomery, 372

INDEX

879

No. of
Recipe

1116 Tournedos, Montpensier, 372

1117 Tournedos, with morels, 373

1118 Tournedos, Ni5oise, 373

1119 Tournedos, Ninon, 373

1120 Tournedos, Parmentier, 373

1121 Tournedos, Persane, 373

1122 Tournedos, Peruvian style, 374

1123 Tournedos, Piedmont style, 374

1124 Tournedos, Proven9ale, 374

1125 Tournedos, Rachel, 374

1126 Tournedos, Rossini, 374

1127 Tournedos, Roumanille, 375

1128 Tournedos, Saint Mande, 375

1129 Tournedos, Sarde, 375

1130 Tournedos, Soubise, 375

1131 Tournedos, Tivoli, 375

1132 Tournedos, Tyrolienne, 376

1133 Tournedos, Valanjay, 376

1134 Tournedos, Valentino, 376

1135 Tournedos, Vert-pr6, 376

1136 Tournedos, Victoria, 376

1137 Tournedos, Villaret, 376

1138 Tournedos, Villeneuve, 377

1139 Tournedos, Villemer, 377
1180 Tripes i la mode de Caen, 391

Trout, 277

811 Trout, salmon, 277

812 Trout, salmon, cambac6rfe, 277

813 Trout, salmon, cold, special for

luncheon, 278

814 Preparation of tomato mousse, 279

815 Trout preparations after the same

method, 279
815a Undines with prawns, 280

816 Trout, fresh water, 280

817 Trout au bleu, 280
394 Trout, marinaded, 163

Truffles, 671

2275 Truffles under the ashes, 671

2276 Truffles with champagne, 671

2277 Truffles with cream, 671

2278 Truffles in napkins, 671

1925 Thrushes and Corsican blackbirds,

602

1926 Thrushes k la bonne femme, 602

1927 Thrushes, Liegeoise, 602

1928 Thrushes, cold, 603
1979 Thrushes, roast, 614

388 Tunny in oil, 161

389 Tunny with tomatoes, 162
1624 Turban of chicken's fillets, 516

923 Turbot, 310

924 Turbot, cold, 311

925 Chicken turbot, 311

926 Chicken turbot. Admiral, 312

927 Chicken turbot, Andalouse, 312

928 Chicken turbot. Bonne Femme, 313

929 Chicken turbot, Commodore, 313

930 Chicken turbot, Daumont, 313

931 Chicken turbot a la Fermiere, 313

932 Chicken turbot, Dutch fashion, 314

933 Chicken turbot, Mirabeau, 314

934 Chicken turbot, Parisienne, 314

935 Chicken turbot, R^gence, 314

936 Chicken turbot k la Reyni^re, 315

No. of
Recipe

937 Chicken turbot, feuillantine, 315

938 Chicken turbot, cold, 316

1715 Turkeys, S47

1716 Turkey, stuffed with chestnuts, 547

1717 Turkey, Catalane, 547

1718 Turkey, Chipolata, 547

1719 Turkey, en JDaube, 544

1720 Turkey, young, white of, k la Dam-

pierre, 544

1721 Turkey, young, white of, k la Tou-

lousaine, 545
1722aTurkey, cold, 546
1960 Turkey, roast, 610
1962 Turkey, truffled, 611

2176 Turnips, 653

2177 Turnips, stuffed A, 653

2178 Turnips, stuffed, B, 653
2107 Turnip-tops, 654

2180 Turnip-tops,
774 Turtle, 262

Turtle Soup. See Consomm^ No.
614

U

987 Umbrina(Bar)
815aUndines with prawns,

Upper-Fillet. See Fillet of Beef,
378
1627 Ursulines de Nancy, 517

1194 Veal, neck of, 398

1205 Veal, large pieces of cold, 402

1208 Veal, breast of, stuffed, 403

1272 Veal, tendrons, 424

1273 Veal, blanquette, old style, 424

1274 Veal, blanquette, with celery, car-

doons, etc., 424

1275 Veal, blanquette, with noodles, 425

1276 Fricassee, 425
1215 Veal coUops, 405
1951 Veal, roast, 607

274 Vegetables (treatment of dry vege-

tables), 132

275 Vegetables, braised, 132

276 Vegetables, leason of green, with

butter, 133

277 Vegetables, leason of green, with

cream, 133

278 Vegetables, creams and purees, 133
Vegetable Marrow. See Cucumber.

242 Velout&. See also Soups, Nos. 67 1
to 695a
Venison and ground game, 567
1954 Venison and ground game, roasts,

608.
1243 Vol-au-Vent of sweetbreads, 415
1296 Vol-au-Vent of brains, 430
1782 Vol-au-Vent of Squabs, 565
2390 Vol-au-Vent crusts, to make, 704

88o

INDEX

No. of
Recipe

W

1042 Waterzooi, 351
2335 Welsh-rarebit, 685
1036 Whitebait, 348

1014 Whiting, English style, 342

1015 Whiting, Bercy, 342

1016 Whiting, Colbert, 342

1017 Whiting, Mousseline of, 342

1018 Whiting, gratined, 343

1019 Whiting, Taupiettes of, gratined,

343

1020 Whiting, en Lorgnette, gratined,

343

1021 Whiting, Orly, 344

1022 Whiting on the dish, 344

1023 Whiting, Richelieu, 344
1938 Widgeon, 604

No. of
Recipe
1981 Widgeons, roast, 614

2948 Wines, hot, 819

2949 Wines, with orange, 819

2950 Wines, French style, 819

2951 Claret cup, 819

1874 Woodcocks, 592 ^

1875 Woodcock k la Careme, S93

1876 Woodcock k la Favart, 593

1877 Woodcock, salmis of, £93

1878 Woodcock i la Souvaroff, 594
1882 Woodcock, cold, 595

1977 Woodcock, roast, 614

1399 Zampino de Mod^ne, 459

1400 Zampino, cold, 459

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