THE LIBRARY
OF
THE UNIVERSITY
OF CALIFORNIA
LOS ANGELES
ORDNANCE
GAZETTEER OF SCOTLAND:
A SUBVEY OF SCOTTISH TOPOGRAPHY,
EDITED BY
FKANCIS H. GROOME,
ASSISTA_NT EDITOR OF ' THE GLOBE EXCYCLOI'JIDIA.
VOLUME I.
EDINBURGH:
THOMAS C. JACK, GRANGE RUBLISHING WORKS.
LONDON: 45 LUDGATE HILL
GLASGOW: 48 GORDON STREKT. ABERDEEN: 2G BROAD STREET.
18 84.
V, I
742144
old Aberdeen iu the ITth century. From Slezer's Theatrum Scotia; (1693).
Alluwuy .Mill, Ayr.-,liiiu (Hoburt liurii>5 first Scliuol).
«!
V
I
Edinburgh. Castle iu 171j, from the North-East. Frum au old piint.
Holyrood House, Edinburgh, in 1740. From an old jiriut.
Miln-Zj
Ruins on lona, Argylcsliire.
Inverlochy Castle, Inverness-shire. From M'Culloch's celebrated picture.
Ill
I
.L^v4^.v/,;;;w;«^',.^■>y/rfx^^.t,^Vt^,<^4i^«VJr•^)i•/>Ja\v<.-Vt^'^^
Grant Castle, Inverness-shire. From a photograph.
Glciicuc, Artjylcshu-c.
IV
-jflij^iWfeQ....
Mauchliue, Ayrshire.
Mount Oliphant, AjTshirc.
r
4
Dalcross Castle, Nairnshire. From a photogi-aph.
Dunyveg Castle, Islay, Argylcshire. From an original drawing.
Uornoch, Sutherluudsliire.
Dunbhme, Perthshiru, ubuut tlio limu u£ ihu UcbcUiuii. J'lom Slczcr's ThaUruM ScuUa (lliDS).
VII
Blair Castle, rertlishire.
P
Old C'ulloden Huuse, Invemess-shire. From an original drawiu^'. Prince Charles lodged here the night before the memorable battle oil the 10th April 17-1(5.
VIII
JOHN BARTHOLOMEW EDINBURGH
ORDNANCE GAZETTEER
OF
SCOTLAND.
A AN or AVEN (Gael. ahJminn, 'river'), a rivulet of A the Eastern Grampians, rises on the NW side jfj^ of I\Iount Battock, at an altitude of 1700 feet, near the meeting-point of Aberdeen, Kincardine, and Forfar shires. Thence it runs about 10 miles ENE mostly along the boundary between Aberdeen and Kin- cardine shires, to a confluence with the Feugh, 4 miles SAV of Banchory. It flows in a rocky bed, is subject to great freshets, and is open to the public, but affords no very good sport. — Orel. Sur., sh. 66, 1871.
Abbey, a precinct in Canongate parish, Edinburgh- shire, adjacent to the foot of the lines of street eastward from the centre of the Old Town of Edinburgh. It contains HoljTood Palace and Abbey, and includes the Queen's Park. First enclosed by James V. , it has, from ancient times, been a sanctuary for insolvent debtors, a bailie for it being appointed by commission from the Duke of Hamilton, and sitting in a small court-house on the first Saturday of every month. Its population has d\vindled since the alteration of the law respecting debtors, and it now has few inhabitants except in con- nection mth Holyrood. The objects of interest, parti- cularly the palace, the abbey, and their adjuncts, are described under Edinbukgh.
Abbey, a quoad sacra parish, formed in 1875 out of South Leith and Greenside parishes, Edinburghshire. Its church, on London Road, close to Abbeyhill station, and 1 mile ENE of Edinburgh Post Office, is a Gothic structure, built (1875-76) at a cost of £8000, with 855 sittings, and tower and spire. Behind it is Abbeyhill school (1S81); and not far off are London Road U.P. church (1875 ; 950 sittings), a very good Early English edifice, also with tower and spire, and Abbeyhill Epis- copal mission church (1880 ; 300 sittings) and school. Pop. (ISSl) 4132.
Abbey, a village of Clackmannanshire, on the left bank of the river Forth, 1^ mile ENE of Stirling. It is, in some respects, in the parish of Stirling ; in others, in that of Logie ; and it takes its name from the neigh- bouring abbey of Cameuskenneth. It communicates, liy ferry-lioat, with the Stirling bank of the Forth, and has a public school, which, with accommodation for 48 children, had (1879) an average attendance of 38, and a grant of £31, 10s. Pop. (1881) 217.
Abbey, a small village, with the site of a Cistercian nunnery, in Haddington parish, Haddingtonshire, on the left bank of the river Tyne, 1^ mile ENE of Had- dington town. The nunnery, foimded in 1178 by Ada, mother of Malcolm IV., was the meeting-place, in 1548, of the parliament that arranged Queen Mary's marriage to the Dauphin. At tlie Dissolution it had 18 nuns, and .an income of £310 ; but no traces of it now remain.
Abbey, a quoad sacra parish in Arbroath and St Vigeans parishes, Forfarshire, around the ruins of Ar- broath Abl>ey, in the town of Arbroath. Constituted in 1869, it had a population in 1871 of 2338 witliiu Arbroath parish, and 1742 within St Vigeans, and is in
the presbytery of Arbroath and synod of Angus and Mearns. Tlie church, erected in 1787 as a chapel of ease, at a cost of about £2000, contained 1281 sittings, but was enlarged by 80 more in 1879. Two schools under the Arbroath burgh school-board bear the names of Abbey and Abbey Church. The former, in May 1880, had an attendance of 230; the latter, closed during the day in December 1879, had then 119 evening scholars.
Abbey, a parish of NE Renfrewshire, including part of the town of Paisley while completely suiTounding the burgh parishes, and itself called sometimes Abbey Paisley. It also contains the town of Johnstone, the Dovecothall portion of Barrhead, and the villages of Elderslie, Thorn, Quarrelton, Inkerman, Hurlct, and Nitshill. It is bomidcd N by Renfrew parish, NE by Govan in Lanarkshire, E by Eastwood, SE and S by Neilston, W by Lochwinnoch, and NW by KUbarchan. Very irregular in outline, it has an extreme length from E to W of 7^ miles ; its width varies between 3 and 4^ miles; and its area is 16,179 acres, of which 2| are foreshore and 252^ water. The White Cakt winds about 5 miles westward, partly along the eastward boundary, and partly through the interior, to Paisley, thence striking 1^ mile northward into Renfrew parish on its way to the Clyde ; at Crookston it is joined by the LEViiRN, which from Barrhead traces nmch of the south-eastern and eastern border. The whole of the north-w-estern border, from Milliken Park to Blackstone House, a distance of 4f miles, is marked by the Black Caiit ; and all three streams are fed by several burns. N W of Paisley is a mineral spring ; and to the S W are the Stanely and Rowbank reservoirs, large artificial sheets of water. The northern part of the parish is almost a perfect level, consisting chiefly of reclaimed moss, and near Boghead being oidy 13 feet above the sea; but southward one passes through ' a rough and undulating country, witli masses of grey crag interspersed with whinny knolls,' to Stanely Moor and the Braes of Gleniffer — the scene of Tannahill's songs, — whose highest point within the Abbey bounds is Scrgeantlaw (749 feet). Lesser elevations, from N to S, are Mosspark (159 feet), Carriagehill (147), Dikcbarhill (IGS), Windyhill (312), Bent (637), and Hartficld (723). The soil on the arable lands has great diversity of character, being in some places a vegetable mould derived from moss ; in others, especially along the streams, a rich alluvial loam. Gene- rally, however, it is shallow, either clayey or sandy, and overlying a substratum of gravel or till, which, naturally retentive of moisture, has been greatly improved by art. The rocks of these low tracts belong to the Carboniferous Limestone scries; those of the hills are various kinds of trap. In 1879, 8 collieries and 6 ironstone mines were in operation ; and greenstone, sandstone, limestone, aluminous schist, fireclay, and potter's-clay are also ex- tensively worked. Tiie chief antiquity is Cr.ooKSTON C vsiLK, and other ruins are Stanely Castle, Stewarts Raiss Tower, and Blackball House. Hawkhead (Earl
ABBEY
of Glasgow) and Cardonald are ancient mansions ; while Johnstone Castle, Ferguslie, Househill, Ralston, Barshaw, and Egypt Park are all of modern erection. Twenty- three proprietors hold each an annual value of £500 and upwards, 82 of between £100 and £500, 135 of between £50 and £100, and 263 of between £20 and £50. This parish is in the presbytery of Paisley and synod of Glas- gow and AjT, and it contains the quoad sacra parishes of Elderslie and Johnstone, with almost the whole of Levern. The charge since 1641 has been collegiate; and there are two ministers, the first of whom has an income of £621, and the second of £512. The parish church is that of the ancient abbey, described vmder Paisley, where, as also under Eldeuslie, Johnstone, and Barrhead, other places of worship of various de- nominations will be noticed. The landward school- board consists of 9 members ; and 9 schools under it, with total accommodation for 2294 children, had (1879) an average attendance of 1558, and gi-auts amounting to £1394, 3s. 6d. Abbey parish has its own poor-law ad- ministration, and possesses a poorhouse and a lunatic asylum for itself, with respective accommodation for 555 and 98 inmates. It is traversed by reaches of the Caledonian and of the Glasgow and South-AVestern rail- way, and by the Johnstone and Glasgow Canal. Valua- tion of lands and heritages (1881) £79,885, 12s. 6d. Pop. of quoad sacra parish (1871) 17,489; of landward district, 11,988. Pop. of civil parish (1801) 14,153, (1861) 29,6S7, (1871) 30,587, (1881) 34,392, of whom 17,470 were within the burgh. — Ord. Sur., sh. 30, 1866.
Abbey, a burn and a small headland in Rer\s-ick parish, Kirkcudbrightshire. The burn rises near Doon Hill, and runs about 6 miles southward, past Dundi-enuan Abbey, to the Solway Firth, at the small harbour of BiU'nfoot. The headland flanks the "W side of that harbour, 3^ miles E of the entrance of Kirkcudbright Bay.
Abbey, a hill in Abbey St Bathans parish, Berwick- shire, 6 miles NNW of Dunse. It is one of the Lammer- mvdrs, has a length of about 2 miles, rises to an altitude of 913 feet, and consists of two parts, called Inner and Outer.
Abbey BathaJis. See Abbey St Bathans.
Abbey Craig, an abrupt eminence in Logic parish, Stirlingshire, on the N side of the Forth, 1| mile ENE of Stirling. It rises from a plain of carboniferous rocks ; consists at first of sandstones, shales, clay, ii'onstone, and coarse limestone ; afterwards becomes a mass of greenstone, similar to that of Stirling Castle and Craig- forth Rocks ; and culminates at a height of 362 feet above the level of the sea. Its limestone has dra-mi some attention ; and its greenstone, in considerable quantit}', has been worked into excellent mill-stones. Its form is picturesque ; its surface is largely clothed ■with shrubbery, and traced with winding walks ; and its summit commands a magnificent view of the basin of the Forth. It bears marks of an entrenchment formed by the Romans, and renewed by Cromwell ; it yielded, about the year 1790, a number of bronze spear-heads ; and it was the station of the victorious army of Sir "William "Wallace in the battle of Stirling, 11 Sept. 1297. A monument to "Wallace now crowns a tabular spot adjacent to a precipitous stoop at its W end. It was founded 24 June 1861, but not completed till Sept. 1869, suffering inteiTuption in its progress from defi- ciency of funds, and eventually costing about £18,000. Designed by J. T. Roehead of Glasgow, it has the form of a Scottish baronial tower, surmounted by an architectural cro%vn, measures 36 feet square at the base, and, rising to the height of 220 feet from the ground, is more con- spicuous than beautiful. The top may be gained, with- out any fee, by a winding staircase, and commands a noble bird's-eye view.
Abbeygreen, a small town in Lesmaliagow parish, Lanarksliiro, on the left bank of the river Kcthan, 3 furlongs W of Lesmaliagow station, and 6 miles SW of Lanark. Beautifully situated in a pleasant vale, it takes its name from the priory of Lesmahagow, and is itself often called Lesmahagow. It stands nearly in the centre of that parish, and contains its post office, with
ABBEY WELL
money order, savings' bank, insurance, and telegraph departments, under Lanark. There are besides branches of the Royal Bank and British Linen Co. Bank, fom* insurance offices, the parish church (1804), a Free and a U. P. church. Two public schools, boys' and female in- dustrial, with respective accommodation for 257 and 268 children, had (1879) an average attendance of 151 and 163, and grants of £52, 3s. 2d. and £165, 6s. 6d. Business fairs are held on the second or the third "Wed- nesday in Jlay and August, and on the first three Wednesdays of December, and hiring-fairs on the second "Wednesday of JLirch and October. Pop. (1861) 1136, (1871) 1448, (1851)1297.
Abbeyhill, an old subm-b of Edinburgh, adjacent to the N side of Holyrood gardens, and on the North British railway at the deflection of the northern branch from the main fine, about 1 mile E of the centre of Edinbm'gh. It consists chiefly of the old sti'cet, containing one or two houses M-hich may have been residences of the courtiers of HohTOod ; and in 1732 it was the death-place of the first Duchess of Gordon. The railway passes it partly on viaducts and partly on embankments. The new thorough- fare from Holyrood to Regent Road, formed for giving better access to Edinburgh than by the old Canongate route, is spanned by one of the ^'iaducts. A station of the name of Abbeyhill is on the northern branch of the railway, in the northern neighbourhood of the old suburb, adjacent to the new subm-b on the line of London Road.
Abbey Land, the name borne by some houses in the tovm of Turriff, Aberdeenshire, that mark the site of an almshouse, founded in 1272 by Alexander ComjTi, Earl of Buchan, and endowed in 1329 by King Robert Bruce. It maintained a warden, 6 chaplains, and 13 poor hus- bandmen of Buchan.
Abbey St Bathans, a hamlet and a parish in the Lam- mermuir district of Berivickshire, took its name partly from a Cistercian nunnerj", party from Baithene, Coluraba's cousin and successor at lona. The hamlet lies in a pleasant haugh on the river "WHiitadder, here spanned h\ a suspen- sion bridge, and is 4i miles "WS"\V of Grants House station, and 7 miles NN'W of its post-to^\-n, Duuse. The nunnery of St Mary was founded towards the close of the 12th century by Ada, Countess of Dunbar, was a cell of South Berwick, and had an income of £47, but is now re- presented only by the E and "W walls of its chapel, which, ori^nally 58 by 26 feet, was greatly cmiailed and modern- ised about the end of last century. In its altered con- dition it serves as the parish church, and contains 140 sittings. A school, ■with accommodation for 7 2 children, had (1879) an average attendance of 62, and a gi-ant of £66, 12s.
The parish has an extreme length of nearly 6 miles and a breadth of 4, but is broken up by Longformacus and Cockbumspath into three sections of respectively 304 5i, 1685, and 97i acres. The surface includes Abbe}' Hiir(913 feet), Bafnside Hill (865), the Camp (803), and several other lower eminences, yet comprises a good aggregate of fertile and well-cultivated lowland ; and while the upper grounds are mostly bare or heathy, the lower slopes are often finely wooded up to a consider- able height. The prevailing rocks are Silurian, and a copper-mine was opened in 1828, but soon abandoned. The "Whitaddee, \vinding from \\ to E, is here a beau- tiful stream, over 30 feet wide, and here it receives the Jilonynut "\Vater and the "Weir and Eller burns. All abound in trout, and Sloor Cottage is a favourite anglers' haunt. Godscroft, on the Mon}Tiut, was the demesne of David Hume (1560-1630), historian of the house of Angus; while Abbey House is a modern erection, the property of Jolin Turnbull, Esq., who owns in the shire 4842 acres, valued at £2526 per annum ; and one other proprietor holds an annual value of over £500, two hold each between £100 and £500, and one holds less than £100. The parish is in the presbytery of Dunse and synod of Merse and Te\not ; its minister's income is £195. Valuation (1881) £2634. Pop. (1801) 138, (1831) 122, (1871) 195, (1881) 250.— Orrf. Sur., sh. 33, 34, 1863-64.
Abbe)rto^wn. See Aiktii.
Abbey Well, a fo^untain a little to the E of the parish
ABBOTRULE
church of Uequhaet, Elginshire. It is the sole memo- rial of a Benedictine priory founded by Da%'id I. in 1124. Abbotrule (Lat. EidaHcrcvci, 'Rule Hervey,' in 1165), a quondam parish of Roxburghshire, divided equally in 1777 between the parishes of Hobkirk and Southdean. It extended about 3 miles along the E bank of the upper part of Rule "Water; and its church, annexed to Jed- burgh by David I. , stiU stands in ruins 2 mQes XE of Hobkirk {Orig. Paroch. Scot., i. 349). The estate of Abbotrule, comprising 2348 acres, was exposed to sale in 1818 at an upset price of £35,000, and now belongs to D. Henderson, Esq.
Abbotsford, the mansion erected by Sir "Walter Scott in Melrose parish, Roxburghshire. It stands on the right side of the river Tweed, opposite Abbotsford-Ferry station, and 2 miles "W of Melrose. Sir Walter pm-- chased its site, together with about 100 surrounding acres, in 1811 ; he purchased an adjoining tract, up to Cauldshiels Loch, in 1813; and in 1817 he made his most extensive purchase, the lands of Toftfield. His original purchase was a plain, coarse, unimproved farm, called Cartley Hole ; but it contained a reputed haunt of Thomas the Rhymer ; contained also some memorials of the battle of Melrose, and commanded a view across the Tweed of a prominent extant portion of the Cale- donian Catrail; and it therefore suited his antiquarian taste. His first care was to find a euphonious name for it, in room of Cartley Hole; and, with allusion to a shallow in the Tweed, which the abbots of Melrose had used for clri\'ing across their cattle, he called it Abbots- ford. His next care was to build a residence : his next to improve the land. He first buUt a pretty cottage, and removed to it from Ashiesteel in May 1812 ; next, between 1817 and 1821, he built the present 'huge baronial pUe,' whose internal fittings were not com- pleted tUl 1824 ; and he, all the while, carried forward the improving and planting of the land. The mansion stands on a terrace of a steepish bank, between the Tweed and the public road from Melrose to Selkirk. The grounds comprise a tract of meadow at the bank foot, but are chiefly a broad, low hUl upward to the southern boundary. Their present features of garden and park, of walk and wood, are much admired, and were all of Sir "\\'alter's own creating. The mansion's precincts comprise umbrageous shrubberies, curious out- houses, a cast-iron balcony walk, a tuiTeted wall, a screen wall of Gothic arched iron fretwork, a front court of about h acre in area, and a lofty arched entrance gateway. The mansion itself defies all the rules of architecture, and has singular features and extraordinary proportions, yet looks both beautiful and picturesque, and is truly ' a romance in stone and lime. ' It presents bold gables, salient sections, projecting windows, hang- ing turrets, and surmounting towers, in such numbers and in such diversity of style and composition and omature, as to bewilder the eye of any ordinary observer. Many of its designs and parts are copies of famous old architectural objects, as a gateway from Linlithgow Palace, a portal from Ediaburgh Old Tolbooth, a roof from Roslin Chapel, a mantelpiece from Melrose Abbey, oak-work from Holyrood Palace, and sculptured stones from ancient houses in various parts of Scotland; so that they make the mansion also a sort of architectural museum. The entrance-hall is a magnificent apartment, about 40 feet long, floored with mosaic of black and white marble, panelled with richly-carved oak from Dunfermliue Palace, and tastefully hung with pieces of ancient armour. A narrow arched room extends across the house, gives communication from the entiance-hall to the dining-room and the cLrawing-room, and contains a rich collection of ancient small weapons and defensive arms. The dining-room has a richly-carved black oak roof, a large projecting window, Gothic furniture, and a fine collection of pictures, and is the apartment in which Sir "Walter died. The drawing-room is cased with cedar, and contains beautiful antique ebony chairs, presented by George IV. , and several chastely-carved cabinets. The library is entered from the drawing-room ; measures 60 feet by 50 ; is roofed with richly-carved oak, after ancient
ABBOTSHALL
models; and contains about 20,000 volumes in carved oak cases, an ebony wiiting-desk presented by George III. , two carved elbow chairs presented by the Pope, a silver urn presented by Lord BjTon, Chantrey's bust of Sir "Walter, and a copy of the Stratford bust of Shakespeare. The study, in which Sir "Walter wrote, is a small, plain, sombre room, entered from the library; and, after Sir "Walter's death, was fitted up as an oratory. A closet is attached to the study, and contains, ^^-ithin a glass-case on a table, the clothes which Sir "Walter wore as a mem- ber of the Celtic Society, the forest accoutrements which he used to carry in his strolls through his grounds, and the hat, coat, vest, and trousers which he wore irnnle- diately before his death.
' XYi I where are now the flashing eye
That fired at Flodden field, Tliat saw, in fancy, onsets fierce.
And clashing spear and shield, — The eager and untiring step
That sought for Border lore, To make old Scotland's heroes known
On every peopled shore, — The graphic pen that drew at once
The traits so archly shown In Bertram's faithful pedagogue.
And haughty Marmion, — The hand that equally could paint.
With each proportion fair, The stem, the ^vild Meg Merrilees,
And lovely Lady Clare, — The glowing dreams of bright romance
That shot across his brow, — Where is his daring chivalry,
AMiere are his visions now?'
The mansion passed to Mr J. Hope Scott, who married Sir "Walter's granddaughter, and added a Roman Catholic domestic chapel ; from him it passed, also by marriage, to the Hon. Jos. Constable ilaxwell-Scott. See Lockhart's Life of Scott (1837-39); AVashington Irving's Abbotsford (1835); Nathaniel Hawthorne's English Note-Books (1870); and Jas. F. Hunnewell's i«?K?s o/^co<< (1871).
Abbotshall, a coast parish, S. Fifeshire, containing the Linkto-\vn or southern suburb of Kirkcaldy (incor- porated with that burgh in 1876), and bounded "W, N"W, and N bv Auchterderran, E by Kirkcaldy and for 4 imle by the Firth of Forth, S by Kinghom, and S"W by Auch- tertool. Irregular in outline, it has a varying length from E to "W of 7 furlongs and 3f mUes, an extierae breadth from N to S of 3 miles, and an area of 4220 acres, of which nearly 60 are foreshore and 25 water. The sur- face, low and level near the coast, rises gently, westward and north-westward, to 283 feet beyond Balwearie, 400 near Raith House, 399 near Chapel, 500 near Torbain, and 484 beyond Lambswell, in the furthest west. Streams there are none of any size, only Tiel Bum, tiacing the southern boimdary, and another, its affluent, feeding the beautiful lake before Raith House, that, covering 21 acres, was formed in 1812. The rocks are partly eruptive, partly belong to the Limestone Carboniferous system ; and sandstone and limestone, the latter abounding in fossils, are quarried extensively, but no coalpit was working in 1879. The soU towaVds the shore is fertOe, though licfht, growing good turnips and barley ; further inland is^mostly dark or clay loam, well adapted for wheat and beans and other heavy crops ; and further still is chiefly of inferior quality, on a cold, tilly subsoil. About four- fifths of the whole area are in tillage, and one-sixth more is under wood. Balweakie Tower is the principal an- tiquitv, only a large yew tree marking the site of the hall or pleasaunce of the abbots of Dunfermline, \ mile W of the church, from which the parish received its name. Raith Hill, too, crowned by a conspicuous square tower, has Yielded some ancient urns and rudo atone coflins. "W'illiam Adam, architect (flo. 1728), and General Sir Ronald C. Ferguson (1773-1841), were natives, the Fergusons ha%-ing held the Raith estate since 1707, and the Melvilles before them since 1296 and eariier. Raith House, If mile "W of Kirkcaldy, is a good old mansion, originally built by George, first Earl of Melville, in 1694, with modern Ionic portico and ■ft-ings, and with finely-wooded grounds and park- The present proprietor owns 7135 acres in the shire,
ABBOTSHAUGH
valued at £13,919 (minerals, £1582) per annum; and Mr Da%'idson of Bogie House, a castellated mansion 22 miles "WX W of the town, o^^•ns 398 acres, valued at £817. Five other proprietors hold each an annual value of £500 and upwards, 15 of between £100 and £500, 12 of from £50 to £100, and 65 of from £20 to £50. In the pres- bj-tery of Kirkcaldy and synod of Fife, Abbotshall was disjoined from Kirkcaldy in 1620, but has itself given off a southern portion [vrith. 1084 inhabitants in 1871) to the quoad sacra parish of Invertiel ; its minister's income is £327. The parish church (rebuilt 1788 ; 825 sittings) stands \ mile W of Kirkcaldy, and there is also a Free church ; whilst a public school at Chapel village, 21 miles NW, with accommodation for 144 children, had (1879) an average attendance of 110, and a grant of £98, 8s. Valuation of landward portion (1881) £10,341. Total pop. (1821) 3267, (1851) 5030, (1871) 5785, 674 of them in landward portion; for 1881 see Kirkcaldy. —Ord. Sur., sh. 40, 1867.
Abbotshaugh, a quondam abbey, now quite obliterated, near Grangemouth, in Falkirk parish, Stirlingshire. The grange or home farm of it gave name to the Grange Burn, and through that to Grangemouth.
Abbot's Isle, a small green island in the bay of Stone- field, on the S side, and towards the foot, of Loch Etive, ;Muckaim parish, Argyllshire.
Abbotsrule. See Abbotrule.
Abbot's Tower, an ancient ivy-clad square ruin, over 40 feet high, stands about ^ mile ENE of Sweetheart Abbey in Newabbe}^ parish, Kirkcudbrightshire.
Abbot's Walls, the ruins of a summer residence of the abbots of Arbroath, in Nigg parish, Kincardineshii-e, on the haugh opposite Aberdeen.
Abb's Head, St, a bold rocky promontorj' in Colding- ham parish, Ber-nickshire, 4 miles NNW of Eyemouth. It presents a wall-like front to the German Ocean nearly 200 feet high ; rises to an extreme height of 310 feet ; has three summits — Kirkhill on the E, Harelaw in the middle, Fowlis on the W ; and is separated from the mainland by a vale or gidly, anciently spanned by a bridge. The neighbouring rocks are Silurian, strangely contorted ; but St Abb's itself is porph3Titic trap, a portion of which, smoothed, grooved, and serrated by glacial action, was laid bare for the inspection of the Berwickshire Naturalists' Club in 1866, and has been left exposed. On Harelaw is a lighthouse, erected in 1861, and showing a flashing light every 10 seconds, ■^-isible at the distance of 21 nautical miles ; and at Petti- cowick, its landing-place, where the precipice is 300 feet high, occurs a beautiful example of the junction of the trap and Silurian rocks. Numerous caves pierce the cliffs, are inaccessible by land, and can be approached by sea only at low water and in the calmest weather, and were formerly haunts of smugglers. This headland was named after St Ebba, daughter of King Ethelfrid, and half-sister of Oswald and Oswy, kings of Northum- l)ria, who about the middle of the 7th century founded upon its 'nabs' the monastery of Urhs Colitdi (Sax. Coldingaham), and as its abbess ruled until her death, 25 Aug. 683. It was a double monastery, containing distinct communities of men and women, who lived under her single government ; and the neck of land on ■which it stood was cut oft' and rendered impregnable by a high wall and a deep trench ; but the building itself was probably very hurnlde, with walls of wood and clay, and thatch of straw. Hither St Cuthbert came in 661 on a visit to Ebba, and spent the best part of the night in prayer and vigils, entering the sea till the water reached to his arms and neck, while seals came nestling to his side. Here, too, in 671, Ethelrcda, foundress of Ely, received the veil from St Wilfrid ; and liere the monk Adamnan foretold the impending doom of 'fire from heaven' that burned the house for its sins in 679. Rebuilt for women only, it was sacked by the Danes in 870, when the nuns, to preserve their honour, cut oft' tlieir noses and lips. The trench and some grassy mounds are all that now mark its site, a ruined chapel on the Kirk- hill dating only from the 14tli centurj^ See art. Ebba in vol. ii. of Smith's Diet. Christ. BioQ. (Lond. 1880).
ABER
Abden, an estate, with a plain old mansion, in King- horn parish, Fife. It long was the property of the Cro^^^l, and had a royal residence, the remains of which were removed only in the present century. A rock opposite the mansion exhibits rapid gradual transition from sandstone to quartz.
Abdie (13th c. Ebed.yn — i.e. ahthen or ahdr.n, 'abbey lands'), a parish of NE Fife, on the Firth of Tay, con- tains the Mount Pleasant suburb of Newburgh, its post-town and station, and also the villages of Lin- dores and Grange of Lindores. Till 1633 it included the present parish of Newburgh, by which and by Dunbog it is cut into three distinct portions. The middle and largest of these is 4 miles long by 3; the smallest, 3 furlongs to the W, and on the Perthshire border, measures li by f mile ; and the third, 1 mile to the E, has an- equal length and breadth of 1^ mile. Their total area is 6537i acres, of which 1585^ are foreshore and 135 water. "The surface is charmingly diversified by hills belonging to the Ochil range, the chief elevations from AV toE being Lumbenny (889 feet), Golden Hill (600), Braeside (563), Woodmill Mains (656), the Mains of Lindores (580), and Norman's Law (558). Some of these hills are clothed or cro^raed with plantations, birt much of the highest ground is mere hill-pasture, dotted -nith heath and gorse. On their ascents, a deep black soil alternates with a light and gi-avelly one of very inferior quality ; along the Tay lies a rich alluvium, like that of the Carse of Go^vi'ie, and fields have been here reclaimed from the Firth within the last 50 years. Devonian rocks form part of the basement, and include a limestone and red sandstone, which formerly were worked. Trap rocks also occur, and are quarried at three points for building and paving purposes. The largest sheet of water is Lindores Loch, near the centre of the parish, which, nearly 4 miles in circumference, is fed by the Priest's Burn, and sends off the Den rivulet to the Tay. The pike and perch, wdth which this loch abounded, were netted out in August 1880, Avith a view to stocking it Avitli trout. At its foot is the site of a castle, called Macduff; and 'Wallace's Camp,' \ mile from the Firth, preserves the memory of the A'ictory of Black Irnsyde, said to have been gained over Ajmaer de Valence, Earl of Pembroke, in 1298. Earlier antiquities than these are a barrow known as Watchman's Tower, the hill-fort of Duumore on Norman's Law, and a stronghold on the picturesque craig of Clachard, whose six westward ram- parts are from 5 to 6 feet high. The roofless church of St Magridin, ou the loch's western margin, was conse- crated in 1242, and contains a 14th-century foliated tombstone ; a female recumbent efiigy ; and, in the Den- miln Aisle (1661), some monuments of the Balfours of Denmiln Castle, which, now in ruins, was the seat of that family from 1452 to 1710. As such it was the birthplace of Sir James Balfour (1603-57), herald, an- nalist, and antiquary, and of his brother. Sir Andrew (1630-94), physician and founder of Edinburgh's first botanical garden. Modern mansions are Inchrye Ab- bey, a castellated building, and Lindores House; 4 proprietors holding each an annual value of £1000 and upwards, 1 of £500, 2 of £400, 2 of between £200 and £300, etc. The eastern portion of Abdie, with 107 inhabitants, is annexed for church, school, and registra- tion purposes to Dunbog ; the remainder constitutes an ecclesiastical parish, in the presbytery of Cupar and synod of Fife. The church is a plain edifice, seating 550, and erected in 1827 at a cost of £1200; the minis- ter's income is £404. There is also a Free church for Abdie and Newburgh jointly ; and at Grange of Lindores is a school, which, ■with accommodation for 152 children, had (1879) an average attendance of 87, and a grant of £72, 2s. Valuation(1881)£10,439, 5s. 2d. Pop. of civil parish (1801) 725, (1841) 1508, (1871) 1164 ; oiq. s. parish (1871) 1057, (1881) 862. See Alex. l,a.mg, Lindores Abbcij and Keivhcrgh CEd'mh. 1876).— Ord .S'wr., sh. 48, 186S.
Aber, a hamlet in Kilmaronock parish, Dumbarton- shire, on the SE shore of Loch Lomond, 24 miles NNE of Kilmaronock station. An islet in the loch, 1 mile N of the hamlet, bears the same name.
ABERARDER
Aberarder, a hamlet and an estate in Daviot and Dun- lichity parish, Inverness-shire, on the river Nairn, 15 miles S by W of Inverness, imder which it has a post office.
Aberarder, a glen on the left side of the valley of the Dee, in Aberdeenshire, between Cratliie and Invercaidd. It strikes laterally from the Dee Valley, and aflbrds a fine vista view to Benavon (3843 feet), a conspicuous summit of the Cairngorm mountains.
Aberargie or Aberdargie, a village in the W of Aber- nethy parish, Perthshire, at the mouth of Glenfarg, 4 miles ESE of Bridge of Earn, under which it has a post office.
Aberbrothwick. See Arbroath.
Abercaimey, the seat of Charles Home Drummond Moray, Esq. , in Fowlis-Wester parish, Perthshire, stands 1^ m'ile NNW of a station of its owa name on the Caledonian, which station is 4^ miles E of Crieff. The present mansion — a splendid Gothic edifice — was building in 1842, when on 12 Sept. the Queen 'got out a moment to look at it ; ' and it was enlarged in 1873. The surrounding estate has belonged to the Jlorays since 1299, when Sir John JMoray de Drumsargard wedded Mary, sole daughter of ilalise. Earl of Stratherne ; its present holder owns 24,980 acres in the shire, of £14,311, 9s. annual value. Conspicuous in the beautiful grounds ai'e a Spanish chestnut, a sycamore, and a bare gaunt ash tree, 90 feet high, and girthing 20 at 3 feet from the ground.
Aberchalder, a locality on the Caledonian Canal, in Inverness-shire, and on the river Oich, 5 miles SW of Fort Augustus. A regulating lock is on the canal here, to secure adjacent navigable minimum depth of 20 feet. Aberchalder House was the place where Prince Charles Edward mustered 2000 men (26 Aug. 1745) before com- mencing his march toward the low country.
Aberchalder Wester, an estate conjoint with Aberar- der, in Daviot and Dunlichity parish, Inverness-shire.
Aberchirder (Gael, abhir-chiar-dur, 'confluence of the dark brown water'), a village in Marnoch parish, Banftshire, 5^ miles SSE of Cornhill station, 7 W by N of Turriff, and QJ SW of Bauft'. It has a post office under the last ^vitll money order, savings' bank, and telegi'aph dex^artments, a branch of the North of Scot- land Bank, and an hotel ; and contains, besides, an Established mission church (200 attendants ; minister's salary £51), a handsome Free church (built on occasion of the Disruption contest in Marnoch), a U. P. church, a Baptist chapel, St Marnan's Episcopal church (1824 ; enlarged and restored, 1875-76 ; 130 attendants), and a Eoman Catholic station, served monthly from Portsoy. A public and an Episcopal school, with respective accom- modation for 400 and 74 children, had (1879) an average attendance of 207 and 68, and grants of £132, 13s. 2d. and £25, 4s. The name Aberchirder, originally borne by the whole parish, referred probably to the moss-burn of Auchintoul's confluence with the Deveron. Pop. (1861) 1273, (1871) 1312, (1881) 1358.
Abercorn, a village and a coast parish of Linlithgow- shire. Lying \ mile inland, near the confluence of the Cornie and Midhope Burns, the village, — a pretty little place, nestling among trees and gardens on the verge of a high bank, — is 3f miles W of its post-town South Queensfeny, and 3 NNWof Winchburgh station. Here stood most probably the monastery of Aebbercurnig or Eoriercorn, founded about 675 under St Wilfrid as a central point for the administration of the northern part of his diocese, which included the province of the Picts, held in subjection by the Angles of Northumbria. Trumuini made this monastery the seat of his bishopric, the earliest in Scotland, from 681 to 685, when the Picts' victory at Dunnichen forced him to flee to "Whitby (Skene, Celt. Scot.,i. 262-268, and ii. 224). And here still stands the ancient parish church, refitted in 1579, and thoroughly repaired in 1838, with a NoiTnan doorway turned into a window, a broken cross, and a stone coffin lid, but minus a carved pew-back that found its way to the Edinburgh Antiquarian Museum in 1876.
The parish contains also the hamlets of Philipston, 2h
ABERCROMBIE
miles SW of Abercorn village, and Society, on the coast, l^ mile E by N. It is bounded N for 3| miles by the Firth of Forth (here 2^ miles wide), E by Dalmeny, SE by Kirkliston, S by the Auldcathie portion of Dalmeny and by Ecclesmaehan, SW by Linlithgow, and W by Carriden, from which it is parted by the Black Burn. It has a length from E to W of from 3^ to 4i miles, an extreme breadth from N to S of 2f miles, and an area of 5265 acres, of which 29J are water. Low swelling hills diversify the surface, but nowhere rise much above 300 feet ; the streams are small, even for rividets. Yet ' the scenery,' says Mr Thomas Farrall, ' is strikingly pic- turesque, the seaboard being richly wooded, the fields highly cultivated and of gi'eat fertility. The castellated mansion of Hopetoun enjoys a commanding prospect, having on one side the blue sea, and on the other green fields, with the Pentland Hills in the background. The soil in this quarter is variable but fertile ; the sub- stratum is still more changeable, consisting of patches of till, gravel, sand, limestone, and sandstone. So early as the 17th century wheat was grown, rents being paid in considerable part by this commodity. What draining was required was mainly accomplished before 1800, and a large extent of land was planted and ornamented with clumps and belts of trees' (Traits. Highl. and Ag. Soc, 1877). To this need only be added that sandstone, whinstone, and limestone are extensively worked, but that a small colliery is now disused. The Anglo-Norman knight. Sir William de Graham, ancestor of the Dulces of Montrose, received from David I. (1124-53) the lands of Abercorn, which came by marriage to Sir Keginald Mure, chamberlain of Scotland in 1329. In 1454 the Castle was taken by James II. from the ninth and last Earl of Douglas, and its only vestige is a low green mound, fronting the church and manse ; whereas I\Iid- hope Tower, bearing a coronet and the initials J. L[iving. stone], stands almost perfect, f mile SW. At present there are titularly connected with this parish Sir Bruce Max- well Seton of Abercorn, eighth baronet since 1663, and the Didce of Abercorn, eldest surviving male heir of the Hamilton line, who takes from it his title of Baron (1603) and Earl (1606) in the peerage of Scotland, of Marquess (1790) in that of Great Britain, and of Duke (1868) in that of Ireland. The mansions are Hopetoun House, h mile E of the village, and BiNNS House, 2 miles WSW ; the property is divided between the Earl of Hopetoun and Sir Robert-Alexander-Osborne Dalyell. Abercorn is traversed in the south for 2^ miles by the North British railway, and for li mile by the Union Canal. It is in the presliytery of Linlithgowshire and synod of Lothian and Tweeddale ; the minister's income is £392. There is also a Free church ; and a public and a girls* school (Gen. As.), with respective accommodation for 197 and 63 children, had (1879) an average attendance of 80 and 41, and grants of £71, 14s. and £36, 2s. 6ch Valuation (1881) £8164, 15s. Pop. (1801) 814, (1821) 1044, (1871) 933, (1881) 86i>.—Ord. Sin:, sh. 32, 1S57.
Abercrombie (Gael, 'curved confluence'), or St Monans, a coast parish of SE Fife, containing the ham- let of Abercrombie, and, 1^ mile SSE, the fishing vil- lage and burgh of barony of St Monans. The latter has a station on the North British, 2f miles WSW of Anstruther, and 16 E by N of Thornton junction, and a post office, with money order, savings' bank, and tele- graph departments. It contains, besides, the parish church, a Free chm-ch, gas-works, and a town-hall ; and is governed by a provost, 2 bailies, a treasurer, and 9 councillors. A good harbour, partly natural, and partly formed by a strong pier constructed in 1865, accom- modates three or four trading vessels, and about 100 large fishing-boats belonging to the port, but is seldom frequented by strangers ; and the herring fishery, a principal emplopuent of the villagers, is now re- stricted to the neighbouring waters, no longer extend- ing to the Caithness coast. Pop. (1851) 1241, (1871) 1648, (1881) 1918.
The parish is bounded W, NW, and NE by Cambee, E by Pittenweem, SE by the Firth of Forth (here 91 miles wide, to North Berwick Links), and SAV by Elia
5
ABEEDALGIE
and Kilconquhar. It has an extreme length from NXW to SSE of 1| mile, a width, of from 1 to If mile, and an area of 12S2 acres, of which 79 are foreshore. Eising abruptly from a low rocky beach, the surface shows some diversities, but on the whole is flat, and nowhere much exceeds 100 feet of elevation. Dueel Bum traces the north-eastern boundary, and Inwoary or St Monans Burn follows the south-western, to within 5 furlongs of its influx to the Firth at the western extremity of St Jlonans village. The rocks belong to the Carboniferous formation, and coal, limestone, and ironstone have all been worked ; the soil is chiefly a light friable loam, with very little claj-, and of great fertility. Balcaskie Park extends over the NE corner of the parish, and in it stands the ruined church of Abercrombie, disused for upwards of two centmies, but still tlie Anstruthers' bur)-ing-place. On the coast, at the SW angle, is the ruinous mansion of Kewark, where General David Leslie, first Lord Xewark, resided till his death in 16S2 ; and another family connected with the parish was that of the Sandilands, Lords Abercrombie from 1647 to 16S1. At present 2 proprietors hold each an annual value of £500 or upwards, 2 of between £100 and £500, 3 of from £50 to £100, and 22 of from £20 to £50. In- cluding the barony of St Monans since 1646, Aber- crombie is in the presbytery of St Andrews and synod of Fife ; its minister's income is £271. According to the legend of St Adrian (given under Isle of May), Monanus, born in Pannonia, a province of Hungary, preached the gospel at Inverry or Abercrombie, and after his martj-rdom was there enshrined. Skene, how- ever, identifpng Jilonanus with Moinenn, Bishop of Clonfert (d. 571), holds that his relics were brought about 845 from Ireland to Fife, and deposited in a church erected to his honour {Celt. Scot., ii. 311-317). Legend again relates how Da^id II., praying before St Monans' tomb, was freed miraculously of a barbed arrow, and for thanks - ofl"ering founded about 1362 the statelier cruciform church, which a century later James III. bestowed on the Dominicans. Standing at the bum's mouth, and built in the Second Pointed style, this church was partly destroyed by the English in 1544, and now retains only its stunted central tower, crowned by a low octagonal spire, its transept, and its choir ; the last measirres 53 by 224 feet, and 'renovated and improved' in 1772 and 1828, serves as the parish church, being seated for 528 worshippers. Featui-es of special interest are the sedilia, a good pointed doonvay, and the reticiilated pattern of some of the windows. Of a public and a General Assembly school, only the former was open in 1879, having then accommodation for 2S5 children, an average attendance of 251, and a grant of £191, lis. Valuation (1881) £6073, 3s. Pop. (1801) 852, (1831) 1110, (1861) 1498, (1871) 1761, (1881) 2054. —Ord. Sur., sh. 41, 1857.
Aberdalgie {Ahirdalgyn in 1150, Gael, abhir-dail- chinn, 'confluence at the end of the field'), a parish in the Stratheam district of Perthshire, whose SW angle is f mile NE of Forte\-iot station, while its church stands 1^ mile NW of Forgandenny station, immedi- ately beyond its SE border, these stations on the Cale- donian being respectively 6| and 3? miles SW of its post-town, Perth. Including, since 1618, the ancient parish of DtTPLix, it is bounded NW and N by Tibber- more, NE by East-Kirk, Perth, E by a detached portion of Forteviot, S by Forgandenny, and SW and W by Forteviot. It has an extreme length from N to S of Z\ miles, a width of 2^ miles, and an area of 4220 acres, of which 55 are water. The Earn, here a beautiful sal- mon river, roughly traces all the southern boundary ; from it the surface rises to 438 feet near the middle of the parish, thence sinking again towards the Almond, but having elevations of 367 and 222 feet on the north- western, and of 362 feet near the north-eastern boundary. The rocks belong to the Devonian system, and freestone is worked in several quarries ; the soil is cold and tilly in the N, in the S a rich loam or clay. The Earl of Kinnoull owns most of the property, and his park around Dupplin Castle occupies the south-western quar- 6
ABERDEEN
ter of the parish, plantations covering much of the re- mainder. Near the church, but on the opposite side of a rivulet, from whose confluence -with the Earn the parish received its name, is Aberdalgie House, the only other mansion. This parish is in the presbytery of Perth and sj-nod of Perth and Stirling ; the living is worth £221. The church was built in 1773, and a vault at its E end is the burying-place of the Kinnoull famil)'. The public school, with accommodation for 49 children, had (1879) an average attendance of 23, and a grant of £45, 4s. 2d. Valuation (1881) £4656, 19s. lOd. Pop. (1831) 434, (1861) 295, (1871) 342, (1881) 297. —Ord. Sur., sh. 48, 1868.
Aberdargie. See Aberaegie.
Aberdeen, the 'Granite City,' capital of Aberdeen- shire, scat of a university, and chief town and seaport in the North of Scotland, lies in lat. 57° 9' N, and long. 2" 6' W, on the left bank of the Dee, at its entrance into the German Ocean. It is both a royal and a parlia- mentary burgh, the latter comprising all the district between the rivers Dee and Don for 3 miles inland — viz., the whole of St Nicholas or City parish (794 acres), part of Old ilachar parish (5115 acres), and part of Ban- chory-Devenick parish (33 acres), and thus ha%ing a total area of 5942 acres ; whilst the royal burgh, occupy- ing the SE angle of the parliamentary, includes, like it, the whole of St Nicholas, but only 376 acres of Old Machar, and measuring IJ mile from N to S by 2| miles from E to W ; has a total area of 1170 acres. Aberdeen is 98 miles NNE of Edinburgh as the crow flies. 111 by road, and 115^ by rail {via Tay Bridge ; 135^ via Perth and Stirling). By the North British or the Caledonian it further is 42 miles N by E of Montrose, 73f NNE of Dundee, 89f NE by N of Perth, 152| NE of Glasgow, 513 NNW of Loudon ; by the Great North of Scotland it is 43^ mUes E by N of Ballater, 29i ESE of ALford, 44:^ S by W of Peterhead, 47? S of Fraserburgh, 53i SE of Keith, 80| SE of Elgin, 108^ ESE of Inver- ness, and 202i SE of Thurso. By sea it has regular steam communication southwards with Dundee, Edinburgh, Newcastle, Stockton, H\ill, and London, northwards with Wick, Thurso, Orkney, Shetland, the Hebrides, and Liverpool.
The city proper stands on four eminences — Castle Hill (80 feet), School Hill (65), Woolman Hill (58), and Port Hill (100), and the highest points within the parliamentary burgh are Caimcry (446 feet), Woodhill (340), and Stocket Hill (320). Naturally bleak and tame, its environs have little of the picturesqueness that distinguishes those of Inverness, Perth, Stirling, and Edinburgh ; but they contain a few good features which have been highly improved by art. The approach by sea lies along a bleak, sandy coast, with low rocks and long reefs in the foregroimd, and a tame unfeatured sur- face in the rear, and becomes interesting only at the point of sudden ingress among the crowded shipping of the harbour. The land approach from the south is sin- gularly repulsive, traversing a broad, low, moorish out- skirt of the Grampians, till it bursts at once on a near view of the Dee and the city. The contrast, by either of these approaches, between the near and distant scenes, is very striking, and never fails to make a strong im- pression upon strangers. Both the city and its sur- roundings, as first beheld, are very beautiful. Nor do the main thoroughfares, when entered, disappoint the first impression, but rather confirm and deepen it. Union Street especially, with its continuation Castle Street, appears enchanting ; and every travelled visitor vdW readily say with the author of The Land We Live III, that ' it possesses all the stability, cleanliness, and architectural beauties of the London west end streets, with the gaiety and brilliancy of the Parisian atmosphere. ' Walks, in various directions, through the city, disclose great diversity of structure and character, and three walks of 4 or 5 miles each among the environs are highly interesting. The first of the three goes to Old Aberdeen, up the Don past Grandholm, and through Woodside, and returns to the city by the Inverness road ; the second leads by the Lunatic Asylum to
ABERDEEN
Stocket Hill, ■where the best general vie-vr of the city and the surrounding country is obtained, proceeds thence to the great granite quarries of Rubisla-«', and returns by the Skene turnpike road ; and the third goes south- westward to the Old Bridge of Dee, passes dovm. the right bank of the river to Girdleness Lighthouse, and crosses by the ferry to Footdee.
The city's alignment, structure, and extent are greatly different now from what they were of old. It now has noble streets in all directions, specially a main one from E to W, two others from S to N, and numerous fine parallel or intersecting ones, together with spacious and imposing outlets ; but, till near the end of last century, Aberdeen was all an assemblage of narrow, ill- built, badly arranged thoroughfares, without any good openings into the country. It probably began with a few rude huts, near the spot where Trinity Church now stands ; it next seems to have occupied the neighbour- hood of the Castle and the Green, and gradually extended in the direction of Shiprow, Exchequer Row, and the S side of Castlegate. But in 1336 it was almost totally destroyed by an English army under Edward III. ; and it then rose from its ruins, like a phcenLx from the flames, and spread over the eminences of Castle Hill, Port Hill, St Catherine's Hill, and Woolman HUl. Then it was that the city took the name of New Aber- deen, as it is still sometimes called ; but it took it, not in contradistinction to the kirk town of Old Machar, now called Old Aberdeen, but to its own old town destroyed by the English. Yet even the new town, with the ex- ception of its public buildings, was rude, irregularly arranged, and unsubstantial. Stone houses, so late as 1545, were possessed exclusively by' grandees ; and even down to 1741 wooden houses formed the W side of Broadgate. A large fenny mai-sh, the Loch, occu- pied, till the latter part of last century, much of the site to the W of Gallowgate, and the very best streets, till then, were narrow, uneven, and paved with cobble- stones ; the parts most favourable to drainage and ven- tilation were crowded with buildings, and abominably filthy ; and the thoroughfares leading to the Dee and to the Xorth, were steep, rough, narrow, and malodorous. But about the end of last century, a great change began, that rapidly gave the city grand new features, and at the same time set its finest old ones in advantageous lights. First, a street was opened from Broad Street to North Street, so as to form an improved outlet to the North. Next, Marischal Street was opened from Castle Street to the Quay ; and, though rather inconveniently steep, it is interesting, both as still a great thoroughfare from the heart of the city to the harbour, and as the first Aberdeen street that was paved with dressed stones. Next, a new and important exit to the NW was formed by opening George Street through the middle of the Loch, to communicate with a new turnpike road to Inverury. Next, two grand new exits were made, from the micldle of the town at Castle Street by respectively Union Street to the W, and King Street to the N, and these were estimated by the engineer to cost the Town Coimcil about £42,000, but soon actually cost them £171,280, and then involved them in bankruptcy. And both contemporaneously with these improvements and subsequently to them, onward till ISSl, other great improvements, of various kinds and aggregately very costly, have been made, and will be mentioned in our notices of public buildings, public works, and the har- bour. Yet the very improvements, or at least the open- ings for the new streets, and the clearing for some public buildings together with the forming of railways, have produced the evils of placing grandeur and meanness side by side, and of greatly augmenting the density of the poorer population. No fewer than some 60 narrow lanes and about 168 courts or closes, of an average breadth of at most 7 feet, still exist ; are mostly situated in the immediate or near vicinity of fine new streets ; and occasion the average distribution of the inhabitants of St Nicholas to stand at so high a ratio as 16 '8 to each house, and of the royal burgh as 14 '8. Some closes, such as Smith's and Peacock's, adjacent to the east end
ABERDEEN
of L'^nion Street, exliibit the lower grades of civilisation only a few steps apart from the higher ; and other places, such as the courts branching from Gallowgate, are about the dingiest and most unwholesome to be found any- where in a British town. Nevertheless, the death-rate per 1000 diminished from 22-5 during 1867-72, to 217 dming 1873-78, being thus below the average of the other large Scotch towns ; and in 1879 it further sank to 20 '9, whilst in zymotic diseases the deaths averaged 31 per 10,000, the lowest figures since the Registration Act came into force. The mean temperature is 45° 8', the average yearly rainfall 31 "65 inches.
The city extends about 2 miles southward, from Kitty- brewster to Ferryhill, and about 2^ miles westward from Footdee to Skene Road ; and measures about 7^ miles in circumference ; but it is thoroughly compact over only aboiit 1 by 1+ mile. The modem sti-eets run so nearly in parallels or at right angles to one another, as to show readily the incongruities at their junctions with the old thoroughfares, and some of them have been constructed in a way of incongruity with themselves, a poor street being placed between two rich ones, as Gordon Street between Dee and Bon Accord Streets. The general appearance, however, is redeemed, partly by the cha- racter of the building material, partly by the large aggregate of gardens, and chiefly by the spaciousness and elegance of the main streets. The edifices, both public and private, are for the most part constructed of a very fine granite from the neighbouring quames ; and those of the principal modern streets are so clean, so massive, so uniformly surfaced, and reflect the light so clearly from the glittering mica of the granite, as to look, on a sunny day, as if they had just been hewn and polished from the rocks upon which they stand. Gardens are attached to many of the houses even in the compacter parts of the city, and to almost all in the suburbs, so that, even in the absence of any such spacious gardens as intersect the New Town of Edinburgh, they produce an efi'ect of airiness and well-being. The view along Union Street, westward, is one of the fijiest in any city in the world, suggesting to the imagination the tombs of Thebes, the Cyclopean walls, or the marble temples of ancient Greece, and at the same time having beauties of its own. This street is 1077 yards long, or, with its eastward and westward continuations— Castle Street and Union Place — 1516 yards, with a breadth of 70 feet. Spacious, straight, and lined on both sides -with elegant buildings, public and private, it runs on a higher level than the portions of the tovm on its southern flank, so as to command a pleasant prospect over them to the S side of the Dee. By Union Bridge it is carried over two of the old streets, as well as over the ravine of the Den Burn, which formerly caused vast inconvenience to traflic. A main line of streets, 1597 yards long, and called successively St Nicholas Street, George Street, and North Broaclford, strikes northward to the country from Union Street, at a point 320 yards E of the bridge, and, for the most part, is finely edificed. Market Street strikes southward, at a point nearly opposite St Nicholas Street ; is 200 yai"ds long, spacious, and moderately steep ; leads direct to the station and the harbour ; and, since 1864, has been considerably re-edificed with houses of a superior character. Broad Street (425 yards) runs nearly parallel to St Nicholas Street, strik- ing off at the mergence of Union Street into Castle Street ; is adorned by ]\Iarischal College ; and passes, at its N end, into line with Gallowgate (600 yards). Castle Street expands from the E end of Union Street, forms a quadrangle about 203 yards long and 43 wide, takes its name from an ancient fortress which stood on a rising ground at its E end, is rich in public ornamental struc- tures, and forms one of the most striking market-places and centres of business in the world. King Street goes northward from the eastern part of Castle Street ; is 1186 yards long, and spacious ; contains several handsome public buildings ; and presents, on the whole, an aspect little inferior to that of Union Street. Rubislaw Terrace, one of several new streets in the extreme W, is much superior to anything of its class in the aristocratic
ABERDEEN
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quarter of almost any town in Scotland ; and the other modern streets, whilst challenging no special notice, may be described in the aggregate as equal at least to the second and third class streets of most stone-built towns in Britain. Few houses, or parts of houses, remain to show the Aberdeen st3''le of domestic architecture in former centuries ; yet enough are standing to interest both the architect and the antiquary. The vestige of a tower, said to have belonged to the Knights Templars, stands in Bothwell Court, adjacent to Justice Street. A house ^vith projecting circular staircase and antiqi;e lintel, said to have been the parsonage of St Nicholas, stands in School Hill. A building, called AVallace Tower, having in a uiche a rude and very ancient effigy of AYallace, and said to have been occupied as an hostelry, stands in Nether Kirkgate ; and another old tenement, known as Mar's Castle, with a diminutive crow-stepped and corbelled gable, circular staircase, and small square openings for windows, stands in Gallowgate, and bears date 149i. The four have strong generic likeness to one another, and challenge more attention from antiquaries than many old buildings elsewhere of higher note. Every remaining specimen of the domestic architecture of the later part of last century is entirely commonplace, but No. 64 Broad Street possesses interest as the place where Lord BjTon passed his earliest boyhood (1790-9S) under his mother's care ; Thackeray visited it when lectiu'ing in Alierdeen on The Four Georges.
The plain old to\ra-house was built in 1730, and the court-house adjoining in 1818 ; but in 1S65 it was re- solved to occupy their site with a new suite of county and municipal buildings, which, commenced iu 1867 at an estimated cost of £69,000, were completed at a cost of £80,000 and upwards. Designed by Messrs Peddle & Kin- near, of Edinburgh, in the Scottish Baronial style of the 16th centmy, ^vith French and Belgian features, they form a four-storied, Kemnay granite pile 6-i feet high, presenting one frontage to Castle Street of 225, and one to Broad Street of 109 feet ; along both fa9ades runs a basement arcade of columns, at 12 feet intervals, sup- porting elliptical arches, and surmounted by a second and smaller arcaded range. At the sti-eets' junction stands the magnificent clock-tower, 28 feet square and 72 feet high, with corner pepper-box turrets 36 feet more ; and, over all, a lantern gablet, culminating in a vane at the height of 190 feet. In June 1880 it was decided to hang a fine peal of bells in this tower, which almost dwarfs an older one to the E — sole relic of the former town-house — although its lead-covered spire has a height of 120 feet. Within are the vestibule and the grand staircase (35 feet square) ; the Great Hall (74 by 35 feet, and 50 high), with five lofty traceried windows, oak panelling, and open timber roof; the richly-deco- rated town-hall, in the clock-tower (41 by 25J feet, and 15 high), ^^'ith three old crystal lustres ; the court- house behind (50^ by 37 feet, and 36^ high), etc. : spe- cial adornments are Provost Davidson's armour, Steell's marble statue of the late Provost Blaikie, a marble bust of John Phillip, and portraits by him of the Queen and Prince Consort, of Queen Anne by Kneller, of Provost Hadden, the late Earl of Aberdeen, and others. — The new Post Office, at the foot of Market Street, was erected (1873-76) at a cost of £16,000, and is a simple but eflec- tive edifice of Kemnay granite, 100 feet square and 40 high, in the Renaissance style. — The Jlarket Hall, Mar- ket Street, was built by a joint-stock company (1840-42), at a cost of £28,000. It is divided into a basement story and a galleried main fioor, wliich, 315 feet long, 106 broad, and 45 high, has a Gothic roof of open timber- work, and itself is divided by two ranges of massive pillars into three alleys, like the nave and aisles of a church. On 29 April 1882 (the fortieth anniversary of its opening) it was comidetely destroyed by fire, but has risen anew from its ashes very slightly altered from its former self. — The neiglibouriiig Corn Exchange, in Hadden Street, measuring 70 by 40 feet, and 30 high, with open roof, was built for £1000 in 1854, and except on Fri- days .serves as a public newsroom. — Close to the 8E comer of Union Bridge is the Trades Hall, a fine Elizabethan 8
granite structure, erected in 1847 at a cost exceeding £7000, and containing an antique set of carved oak chairs (1574), portraits by Jameson, and the shields of the seven incorporated trades — hammermen (1519), bakers (1398), Wrights and coopers (1527), tailors (1511), shoemakers (1484 and 1520), weavers (1449), and fleshers (1534)— whose curious inscriptions form the subject of a mono- graph (1863) by Mr Lewis Smith. — The Society of Advo- cates, chartered in 1774, 1799, and 1862, and numbering 124 members, has a handsome new hall, behind and connected A\'ith the County Buildings ; in it is the valu- able law library of 5000 volumes, established in 1786. — The Medico-Chirurgical Society (1789), with 30 mem- bers, has also its hall, in King Street, wliich, built (1818-20) at a cost of £2000, is entered by an Ionic portico, and contains a large meeting-room, laljoratory, library of 4000 volumes, portraits by Vandyke and T. Jliles, etc. — Westward of Union Bridge, the Music Hall Buildings, o-umed by a limited company (1858), comprise the assembly rooms, erected in 1820 at a cost of £14,500, with portico of six Ionic columns, 30 feet high, and ball, supper, billiard, and other saloons, to which, at a cost of £5000, was added the music hall behind, opened by the Prince Consort on 12tli September 1859, with a very fine organ and accommodation for 2000 persons. — The new Theatre and Opera House, in Guild Street, was built in 1872 at a cost of £8400, seats 1650 spectators, and has a frontage of 75, a mean depth of 90, and a height of 50 feet— The Masonic Hall (1871-76), in Exchange Street, cost £2806, and has a lodge-room, 50 by 32 feet, and 20 high, ^\^th three stained windows ; the St Kath- erine's Halls, with an organ, were opened in 1880, in connection with Shiprow Cafe. — The Public Baths and Swimming Pond (1851-69) are in Crooked Lane ; and at the junction of Bridge Place and Windmill Brae is the five-storied Hj'dropathic and TiU'kish Bath establish- ment (1880), with a tower 80 feet high, six plvmge baths, and a cafe. Of 39 inns and hotels, 5 of them temperance, the chief are the Imperial, Palace, Douglas, Lemon-tree, City, Forsyth's, Adelphi, Waveiiey, and Dufi'us' Temperance ; clubs are the Koyal Northern (1854), the City, the Aberdeen Club (1862), and the New Club (1867).
Aberdeen has two native Banks, the Town and County (1825), and the North of Scotland (1836). The former in October 1880 had 1021 partners, 51 branches, a paid-up capital of £252,000, a reserve fund of £126,000, and de- posits and credit balances amounting to £1,912,603 ; the latter, with 2136partnersand 60 branches, had £394,500 of paid-up capital, £203,441 of reserve fund, and £2,678,172 of deposits and credit balances. The Town and Coimty has splendid new premises (1863) near the junction of Union and St Nicholas Streets, which, Roman Classic in style, cost £14,000 ; as also did the North of Scotland Bank (1839), at the corner of Castle and King Streets, whose Corinthian capitols exhibit a delicate minuteness never before attained in granite. There are, besides, the National Security Savings' Bank of Aberdeen (1845), and branches of the following banks, with dates of their establishment : — The Bank of Scotland (1780), the Com- mercial Bank (1811), the National Bank (1833), the British Linen Co. (1833), the Royal Bank (1862), and the Union Bank (1849), with M'hich was incorporated the Aberdeen Bank (1767). The Scottish Provincial and Northern Assurance Companies were further estab- lished here in 1825 and 1836, the one with 20,000 £50 shares, the other with 30,000 £100 shares ; and there are 4 navigation companies and about 80 insurance agencies.
The Royal Infirmary, on the western slope of Wool- man Hill, was founded in 1740, enlarged in 1753, 1760, and 1820, and wholly rebuilt (1833-40) at a cost of £17,000. A Grecian three-storied edifice, with domed centre and two projecting wings, it is 160 feet long, 112 broad, and 50 high, and, containing 20 large lofty wards with 11 smaller apartments, can accommodate 300 patients. Epidemic wards were built on tlie links in 1872 at a cost of £2500, and Loch-head House, with 3 acres of ground, was purchased in 1S73 for £2250, to serve as a convalescent hospital. In 1879 the total
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number of patients treated was 1713 at the infirmary, and 172 at the convalescent hospital, besides 2981 out- patients ; and the income for ISSO was £6263, the expen- diture £6288. The managing committee is elected from a body composed at present of 21 ex officio and 202 life managers, 16 managers by annual subscription, and 46 from presbyteries and churches. Under the same man- agement, but with a separate account, the Koyal Lunatic Asylum stands amid grounds of 45 acres, well wooded and tastefully laid out, 1 mile NNW of the corner of Union and St Nicholas Streets. The original building of 1800 cost £3480, and that of 1819 £18,135, of which £10,000 was bequeathed by John Forbes of Newe. Ad- ditions have been made from time to time, the latest in 1880 ; but the most important was the erection in 1862 of Elmhill House for higher-class patients at a cost of £10,866, this being a handsome building in the Italian villa style, designed by AVilliam Ramage, whilst the architect of both asylum and infirmary was Archibald Simpson. During 1800-80 the asylum ad- mitted 5682 patients, of whom 1040 died, and 4103 were dismissed as either cured or incurable ; and on 31 Dec. 1880 the number of pauper inmates was 361, of private inmates 173, the income for the year ending Avitli the preceding Jlarch being £18,391, the expen- diture £15,861. — St Xicliolas Poorhouse, Nelson Street, \vith 382 inmates in April 1881, is a Tudor structure, built in 1849 at a cost of £9300, and enlarged in 1869 at a cost of £3350 more. — Other benevolent establishments are the Dispensary, Lying-in, and Vaccine Institution, Guestrow (1823 ; enlarged and refitted, 1881), which in 1880 dealt with 3327 cases ; the Blind Asylum, Huntly Street (1843) ; the Deaf and Dumb Institution, Belmont Street (1819) ; the Sick Children's Hospital, Castle Ter- race (1877) ; the Hospital for Orphan and Destitute Female Children, Huntly Street (1849); the Female Orphan Asylum, Albjm Place (1840) ; the House of Refuge and Night Shelter, George Street (1836) ; a Mag- dalene Asj'lum, Seabank (1S64) ; a Hospital for Incur- ables, etc. Returns under the Endowed Institutions Act (1869) showed that the city's endowed charities in Sept. 1870 had a total value of £115,068, including upwards of £46,000 belonging to the Guildry, and yielding an annual revenue of £4289.
The East Prison, immediately behind the court-house, is the only gaol of Aberdeen, the West Prison having been discontinued since 1863 ; and the East itself is shortly to be transferred to a different site. Built in 1831, and enlarged in 1868, it contains 95 cells, and was described as ' bad in situation, \dt\\ small dark cells, imperfect ventilation, and insufiicient accommodation,' in the In- spector's Report for the year ending 31 March 1879. In the twelvemonth folloA\ing, 1426 criminal and 58 civil prisoners were confined ■within it, and its gross expenditure was £1564. — During the same year Oldmill Reformatory (1857), 1^ miles W of the town, was occu- pied on an average by 148 boj's, and Mount Street Re- formatory (1862) by 25 girls, their respective receipts being £2645 and £578. — The Infantry Barracks, on the crest of the Castle Hill, stand on the site of a castle erected as early as 1264, and, as built in 1796 at a cost of £16,000, formed a plain -wdnged oblong of three stories, but were greatly enlarged by the block added (1880- 81) at a further cost of £11,000, with a frontage to Justice Street of 138i feet.— The King Street Militia Barracks were erected in 1863 at a cost of £10,000 in the old Scottish Castellated style ; the Rifle and the Artillery Volunteers have drUl-halls in Blackfriars and Queen Streets.
Aberdeen has 62 places of worship, belonging to 14 different denominations. Its parishes — East, West, North, South, Greyfriars, and St Clement's — formed, up to 1828, the single parish of St Nicholas, and still in certain secular respects are one. There are also 8 quoad sacra parishes ; and the churches of all 14, with pop. for 1881, communicants for 1878, and ministers' stipends, those marked ■u'ith asterisks being largely supplemented by the congregations, are: — East (Union Street, 4207, 1629, £300^*), West (Union Street, 6328, 928, £300"^),
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North (King Street, 8855, 2346, £300), South (Belmont Street, 2895, 1572, £250*), Greyfriars (Broad Street, 6387, 1185, £250), St Clement's (Footdee, 7693, 1893, £250), Gilcomston (Summer Street, 12,616, 1456, £400), John Knox's (Llounthooly, 6656, 850, £327), Holburn (AVellington Place, 12,634, 972, £380), Ferryhill (4941, 242, £250), Rubislaw (Queen's Cross, 3194, £508), Trinity (Marischal Street, 3090, 213, £250), Rosemount (Caroline Place, 8263, 322, £425), and St George's- in-the-AVest (John Street, 4452, £200).— The East and West Churches stand in a graveyard of nearly 2 acres, which is separated from Union Street by an Ionic facade, erected (1830) at a cost of £1460, and measuring 147^ feet in length by 32J- in height, with 12 granite columns, each consisting of a single block, and with a central archway. These churches occupy the site of the collegiate St Nicholas, which, as built between 1200 and 1507, had a nine-bayed nave (117 feet by 66), a transept (100 by 20), and a seven-bayed choir (81 by 64), with a trigonal apse over the crypt of Our Lady of Pity. At the crossing a tower rose, with its oaken spire, octa- gonal and picturesque, to a height of 120 feet ; and in it hung three great harmonious bells, of which one, 'Lowrie,' bore date 1352, and was recast in Flanders about 1633. After the Reformation the roodscreen gave place to a wall, and St Nicholas thus was divided into two churches, the western consisting of the former nave, the eastern of the choir, and the Romanesque transept between (known as Drum's and Collison's aisles) serving as vestibule. The West Church, having become dilapi- dated, was rebuilt (1751-55) from designs by James Gibbs, architect of the Radclifle Library at Oxford and of the Cambridge Senate House ; ' but as if,' says Hill Burton, ' emphatically to show that the fruits of his genius were entirely to be withdrawn from his o^ra countrymen, the only building in Scotland kno«Ti to have been planned by him, this church in his native city, combines whatever could be derived of gloomy and cumbrous from the character of the Gothic architecture, with whatever could be found of cold and rigid in the details of the Classic. ' The East Church, too, was bar- barously demolished, and rebuilt(1834-37)inGothicstjde; but on 9 Oct. 1874, its roof and interior were destroyed by fire, along -v^-ith the spire and its peal of bells, in- creased by 5 in 1859. The total loss was estimated at £30,000, the West Church also being much damaged by water ; but all has been since restored, and at a cost of £8500 a fine granite tower and spire erected (1878-80), 190 feet high. The churchyard contains the graves of Principal Guild, Blackwell, Beattie, and Campbell ; in the West Church are marble monuments by Bacon and Westmacott, the effigy of Provost Da's-idson, who fell at Harlawin 1411, a curious brass portrait-panel of Dr Dun- can Liddel, executed at Antwerp in 1622, from a dra-\^-ing by Jameson probably, and the tombstone of Provost Menzies (d. 1641); whilst, in the southern transept, a small brass to Sir Alexander Ir\i.ne of Drum is dated 1400 {Proc. Soc. Ant. Scot., 1876, p. 450).— The North Church, built in 1826 at a cost of £10,500, is a Grecian edifice, modelled apparently after St Pancras in London, measures 120 by 64 feet, and has an imposing Ionic portico, 32 feet high, and a circular tower of 150 feet. — South Church, Gothic, ^\\t\l massive gables and a tower, was built in 1831.— Greyfriars or College Church fonned part of St Mary's Observantine friary (1450-1560), and, consisting of a plain old Gothic hall with a modern E aisle, is interesting as the only pre-Reformation church ■within the municipal burgh ; Jameson, the painter, is buried in its cliurchvard. —St Clement's, founded about 1498 for Footdee fisher-folk, was repaired in 1631, and since has been U\\cq rebuilt, in 1787 and 1828, on the last occasion ' in the Gothic stjde, with an elegant belfry, 45 feet high;' an organ was placed in it in 1874. —Trinity Church was built in 1822 ; John Knox's in 1833 ; Rubislaw, an ornate freestone edifice, in 1876 ; Rosemount in 1878 ; St George's in 1879, etc.
At the Disruption in 1843 every Aberdeen minister and 10,000 lay adherents went out from the Establish- ment ; and now within the burgh there are the following
9
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Free cli arches, vrith. their communicants in 1880, and ministers' incomes : — Bon Accord (Union Terrace, 710, £314), East (Belmont Street, 791, £481), Ferryhill (Rotunda Place, 210, £362), Gaelic (Gaelic Lane, 159, £190 and manse), Gallowgate (202, £182), Gilcomston (Union Street, 742, £502), Greyfriars (George Street, 480), High (Belmont Street, 674, £417), Holburn (Hard- gate, 534, £306), John Knox's (Gerrard Street, 79S), Mariners' (Commerce Street, 239), Melville (Correction "Wynd, 618, £312), North (West North Street, 551), Rutherford (Loanhead Terrace, 432), Ruthrieston (176, £203 and manse), St Clement's (Prince Regent Street, 591, £384), South (Belmont Street, 1197, £532 and manse). Trinity (Crown Street, 733, £445), Union (Ship- row, 342, £210), West (Union Street, 958, £532 and manse), and Causewayend. Of these 21 churches, Mel- ville, the Gaelic, and Union were built for the Estab- lishment in 1772, 1795, and 1822; East, South, and High (1844) form an imposing cruciform pile. Lancet Gothic in style, ■\^ith a fine brick spire 174 feet high ; and the West Church (1869), a Gothic ^structure in Morayshire sandstone, has a spire of 175 feet, and cost £12,856. Gilcomston Church has also a hand- some spire ; and another, 150 feet high, adorns a new Free church, bmlt at Queen's Cross (1880-81) at a cost of £7000.
Six U.P. churches, with members in 1879 and mini- sters' incomes, are — Belmont Street (466, £350), Char- lotte Street (597, £300), George Street (437, £310), Nelson Street (137, £199), St Nicholas Lane (374, £300), and St Paul Street (403, £290). For the George Street congregation a new church has been built (1880-81) in Garden Place at a cost of £11,500. There are also 5 Congregational churches, in Belmont Street, Black- friars Street, Frederick Street, Park Street, and Shiprow (1878) ; an Associate Synod church, in Skene Terrace ; 2 Evangelical Union churches, in John and St Paul Streets ; 2 Baptist churches, English in Crown Terrace, Scotch in Academy Street ; a Wesleyan Methodist chapel, in Crown Terrace ; a Free Methodist chapel, in Dee Street ; a Unitarian chapel (1840), in George Street ; and a Quakers' meeting-house, in Diamond Street.
The English Episcopalians have had a chapel here since 1721, transferred to St James's, King Street, in 1866 ; and the Scottish Episcopalians possess 5 churches, with aggregate congregations of some 3000 souls. St An- drew's, King Street, Perpendicular in style, as buUt in 1817, consisted of an aisled nave (90 by 65 feet), with a marble statue by Flaxman of Bishop John Skinner ; in 1880 a beautiful chancel (40 by 28 feet, and 45 high) was added at a cost of over £3000, from designs by Mr G. E. Street, R.A.— St John's (1849-51), in St John's Place, is an Early Middle Pointed structure, comprising chancel, four-bayed nave, and S aisle. — St ilary's (1862), in Garden Place, is Germanised Early First Pointed in style, with strong Romanesque features, and consists of nave (09 by 36 feet, and 60 high) and chancel (51 by 22 feet, and 53 high), with trigonal apse, organ chamber, sacristy, crypt, and a fleche 112 feet high. — St Paul's (1865), in Gallowgate, is Second Pointed, and measures 120 by 60 feet ; St Margaret's, Seamont Place, was opened as a mission church in 1870, and consecrated in 1879. There are two Episcopal sisterhoods — St Mar- garet's (1864) and the Society of Reparation (1870), the latter with orphanage attached ; and three Episcopal schools, St Andrew's, St John's, and St Margaret's, with total accommodation for 708 children, had (1879) an average attendance of 548, and grants amounting to £336, 15s. 6d.
The Catholic cathedral of St JLary's of the Assump- tion, Huntly Street, was bmlt of white granite in 1S60 in Second Pointed style, has 1200 sittings, and consists of an aisled nave (156 by 73 feet, and 72 high), into which in 1879 were introduced a chancel arch and a rood- screen, with colossal Crucifix and figures of the Virgin and St John, whilst along the nave are canopied life-size statues of the Twelve Apostles. A large rose window over the new High Altar (1881) is filled, like all the other win- dows, with rich stained glass ; at the W end is a very 10
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fine painting of the 'Visitation ;' and the Baptistry con- tains a beautiful font of polished granite. By 1880 about £15,000 had been already expended on the cathe- dral and its graceful spire, which, completed in 1877, is 200 feet high, and contains a peal of 9 good bells, the largest of them over 30 cwt. Attached to St Mary's is a Franciscan convent, the nuns having charge of a day and boarding school \s-ith SO, and of St Joseph's and St Peter's schools in Constitution Street, ■with 336 scholars in June 1880, as also of two small orphanages ; Nazareth House, on the W side of the city, is a home for the aged and infirm, and for sick and abandoned children, and had then 150 inmates.
lilarischal CoUege stands in a court, entered by an old arched gateway from the E side of Broad Street, near its mergence into Gallowgate. The original buildings were those of a Franciscan friary, suppressed at the Reformation. A new edifice, retaining the portions of the old buildings that were not destroyed by fire in 1639, was erected in 1676, and an extension sujierseding those portions was built in 1740-41. But the whole was unsubstantial and in constant need of repair ; and in 1837-41 it was replaced on the same site by a very extensive and most imposing pile, designed by Archi- bald Simpson, and erected at a cost of £30,000, includ- ing a royal gi-ant of £15,000. The new structure, consisting of durable white granite, and in a bold but simple style of collegiate Gothic, forms three sides of a quadrangle (117 by 105 feet), rises to the height of two lofty stories, and presents uniform and striking ranges of mullioned windows. A square tower springs from the side of the quadrangle, and terminates in four ornamental turrets, at a height of 100 feet from the groimd ; and open arcades, 48 feet long and 16 wide, extend from both sides of the principal entrance. The public school, 74 feet long and 34 wide, is on the ground floor ; whilst the hall, 71 feet long, 34 wide, and 32 high, and the library and the museum, each 73 feet long, 34 wide, and 32 high, are all on the upper floor, have ornamental ceilings painted in imitation of oak, and are reached by a lofty staircase, with a massive stone balustrade and a gi-oined ceiling. The public hall contains portraits of the fifth Earl Marischal, Bishop Burnet, Dr Arthur Johnston, Sir Pavd Menzies, Andrew Cant, Sir Robert Gordon, and other worthies, several of them by the celebrated Jameson. There are 17 class rooms, and a number of other apartments. A granite obelisk, to the memory of Sir James M'Grigor, Bart., was erected (1860) in the centre of the quadrangle, and consists of base 16 feet square and 6 high, pedestal 9 feet square and 11 high, plinth 7 feet square and 3 high, and shaft from 5 to 3^ feet square and 52 high, having thus a total height of 72 feet. But both this monument and the dinginess of the approach from Broad Street mar the eS"ect of the college biuldings. The college was founded in 1593, by George Keith, fifth Earl Marischal. His charter endowed it with the gi-ound and property of the Franciscan, Dominican, and Cannelite friars of Aberdeen, and appointed it to have a principal, 3 regents, 6 alumni, an economist, and a cook. The principal was to be an adept in sacred literature, and to be able to give anatomical and physio- logical prelections ; and the first regent was to teach ethics and mathematics, the second logic, and the third Latin and Greek, The candidates for the chairs were to be nominated by the earl himself and his heirs, and to be examined and admitted by the faculty of King's College, and by the ministers of Aberdeen, Deer, and Fetteresso. The constitution was confirmed imme- diately by the General Assembly, and a few months afterwards by Parliament. A new charter was given in 1623, by William, Earl ^Marischal, and a new confirma- tion made in 1661 by Charles IL All the deeds declared that the masters, members, students, and bur- sars should be subject to the jurisdiction of the burgh magistrates. An additional regent was appointed ■vs-ithin a few years of the foundation : a professorship of mathematics was founded in 1613, a professorship of di'i-inity was added in 1616, and 7 other professorships
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were founded at different subsequent periods. The senatus, in 1753, directed that the students, after passing through the Latin and Greek classes, sliould be instructed first, in natural and civil history, geography, chronology, and the elements of mathematics ; next, in natm-al philosophy ; and afterwards, in moral philosophy. A few alterations were subsequently made, and these ad- justed the aggregate classes into the four facilities of arts, divinity, law, and medicine. But the college, under the University Act of 1858, was united with King's College into one university, with a new constitu- tion, and now it is devoted entirely to the law and medicine classes of the united university. The library, in 1827, contained 11,000 volumes ; and, subsequently to that j'ear, received the valuable classical collection of the late Dr James Melviu, and was otherwise considerably en- riched.
The Free Church College (1843) occupies a handsome Tudor edifice, with a square tower and an octagonal turret, erected in Alford Place in 1850, at a cost of £2025 ; pos- sesses 11 scholarships and a library of 17,000 volumes ; and in ISSO had a principal, 3 other professors, a lec- tui-er, and 30 students. — The Church of Scotland and Free Church Female Training Colleges, in 1879, had respectively 72 and 68 students, and incomes of £2796 and £2087 ; for the former, new buildings were opened in George Street in 1878 ; for the latter, in Charlotte Sti'eet, in 1880. — The Mechanics' Institution, founded in 1824, and reorganised ten years later, has a hall, with class rooms and a library of 14,000 volumes, in a building erected in Market Street in 1846 for £3500 ; and schools of science and art have been conjoined there- with since 1853.
The Grammar School, dating from about 1262, shows a list of 26 rectors from 1418 to 1881 and of other clas- sical masters from 1623. The representative secondary school of the North of Scotland, it attracts advanced pupils from the best primary schools, and has close con- nection, by charter and constitution, ■uith the univer- sity. Its teachers, till 1863, were only a rector and 3 classical masters, but number now a rector and 10 under-masters. The building, from 1757 till 1863, was a plain structure, on School Hill, erected at a cost of £400, on part of the gi'ounds of the Dominican Friary, forming three sides of a square, and containing a public hall with four class rooms; and this building it was proposed, in 1880, to fit up as a permanent art gallery and museum. The present Grammar School BuUdings, in Skene Street West, were erected in 1861-63 at a cost of £16,605, in the Scottish Baronial style, and contain a rector's room, 52 feet by 30, class rooms, each 40 feet by 28, with accommodation for 1215 boys, a public hall, a library, etc. They were vested in the magistrates and town council and in certain representatives of subscribers ; but by the Edu- cation Act of 1872 passed to the supervision of the burgh school-board. The curriculum extends over five j'ears, and the number of scholars was 350 at the end of 1880, when the endo-\vment amounted to £668 per annum, including 33 bursaries, founded between 1629 and 1866, and ranging from £20 for four years to £3 for five years.
Gordon's Hospital, of similar character to Heriot's Hospital in Edinburgh, was founded in 1730 by the miser Robert Gordon (1665-1732), a Danzig merchant, who bequeathed it £10,300. Chartered in 1772, and further endowed by Alexander Simpson of Collyhill in 1816, it maintains and educates sons or grandsons of deceased burgesses of gmld and of indigent to^^'nsfolk generally. It admits boys of from nine to eleven years of age, and, retaining them till fifteen, educates them in English, writing, arithmetic, book-keeping, geography, mathematics, natural philosophy, drawing, music, French, and Latin, afterwards apprenticing them to proper trades. It is governed by the magistrates, town council, and 4 ministers of Aberdeen; and had 11 masters and 200 pupils in the year ending with Oct. 1880, when its income was £6291, and its expenditure £6759. Its biulding, Grecian in style, stands in grounds stretch-
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ing northward from School Hill, comprises a centre, erected in 1739 at a cost of £3300, and two wings, ^rith neat connecting colonnades, erected in 1834 at a cost of £14,000 more ; presents a frontage to the S, overlook- ing a lawn ; and gives one of the finest views in the city, A marble statue of the founder surmounts the S entrance, and his full-length portrait hangs in the large hall.
The Boys' and Girls' Hospital, founded in 1739, and incorporated in 1852, was in 1871 transferred from Upper Kirkgate and Gallowgate to new buildings in King Street Road. Governed by the Lord Provost, 3 lite trustees, and 12 trustees elected annually, it admits poor children of St Nicholas parish, from eight to eleven years of age, and keeping them till fourteen, teaches them reading, writing, arithmetic, gi'ammar, geographj', music, and drawing, as also, if girls, sewing, knitting, and household work. In 1880 it had 100 pupils, 60 of whom were boys ; and its funds and property amounted at 31 Dec. 1879 to £55,712, the revenue for the year being £2218, and the expenditure £2122.
Composed of 13 members, the Burgh School-Board, in the year ending "Whitsunday 1880, had an in- come of £19,029 (school fees, £6651 ; Government grants, £4846 ; school rate, £7101, etc.), and expended £18,777, including £12,451 for teachers' salaries. On 31 Oct. 1880, it reported 72 elementary schools, with gross accommodation for 16,595 and an average attendance of 13,087 children, viz., 12 hospital and industrial schools (accom. 2613; and attendance 994); 16 academies and ladies' schools (2274 and 1025) ; 15 private adventure or dame schools (558 and 549) ; 11 non-public but State-aided schools (3850 and 3450) ; and 18 public schools (6800 and 7069). The board's own schools, with average attendance, number of children examined, and Government grant in 1880, are — Albion Street (346, 279, £280, 17s.) ; Causewayend (759, 586, £692); Commerce Street (537, 404, £479, 6s.); Davidson's (170, 114, £149, 12s. 4d.); Dr Broom's (323, 255, £284, 10s.); Ferryhill (465, 352, £418, 15s.); Marywell Street (328, 242, £284, 19s.); Middle (744, 610, £693, 9s.) ; Northfield (435, 338, £379, Os. 6d.) ; Port- Hill (579, 510, £397, 16s. 6d.) ; Princes Street (208, 148, £162, 13s.) ; St Andrew's Street (290, 220, £264, 17s.) ; St Clement Street (450, 337, £420, 3s.) ; St Paul Street (491, 367, £429, 12s. 6d.) ; Skene Street (409, 329, £376, 17s.) ; and Trinity (141, 97, £112, 8s.).
Aberdeen till lately had no public gardens, a want the more felt from the scarcity of any large open spaces within the city ; but the Victoria Park in 1872, and the Union Ten-ace Gardens in 1879, were laid out at a cost respectively of £4248 and £5110. The former Ipng on the NW outskirts of the town, near the Lunatic Asj-lum, is 13 acres in extent, measuring some 400 by 225 yards, and at its centre has a handsome granite fountain, presented by the master masons and workers of Aberdeen ; whUst Union Terrace Gardens, with well-gi'own elm and ash trees, planted in 1775, had served for some years as a convenient 'toom,' and extending northwards from Union Bridge alongthe W side of the Denburn Valley, here spanned now by another bridge leading to School Hill, have an utmost length and breadth of about 250 and 50 yards. In July 1880, too, it was intimated that Miss Duthie of Ruthrieston contemplated the fonuation of a carriage drive along the river, from the reclaimed ground to Bridge of Dee, as also, at a cost of £30,000, of a public park of 47 acres at Arthurseat, near AUenvale Cemetery, its fii'st sod being cut on 27 Aug. 1881. Aber- deen's best recreation ground, however, -vrill always re- main the Links, a stretch of velvety sward and broken sandhills (the highest. Broad Hill, 94 feet), which, 410 acres in area, extends for 2 miles along the fine level sands. Here are the battery, lifeboat house, bathing station, and golf club house ; and here, too, cricket and football are played, cattle shows and wapenshaws held, as well as the autumn horse races, revived in 1876.
The Cross, at the upper end of Castle Street, is a Renaissance, open-arched, hexagonal structure of free- stone, adorned with medallions of the seven Jameses. From its centre springs a column with Corinthian
11
ABERDEEN
capitol, sunnounted by a unicorn that bears an escutcheon charged •with the Scottish lion, the basement being 21 feet in diameter and 18 high, the cohimn 12i feet more. The workmanship of John Slontgomery, mason of Old Rayne, it first was erected, in 16S6, before the Tolbooth, near the site of the Flesh and Fish Crosses, and was transferred to its present position in 1842. — The monument (1S36) of George, filth Duke of Gordon, Scott's ' Cock of the North,' stands 30 yards lower down, and consists of a granite statue and pedestal, the one Hi, the other lOJ feet high, and the latter flanked by two heavy pieces of ordnance, taken at Sebastopol in 1855. — At the NW corner of Union Bridge, in a cii'cular recess, is Baron Marochetti's bronze seated statue of the Prince Consort, in field-marshal's uniform, the jack -boots very prominent. The figure is 6J feet high, its pedestal of polished Peterhead granite 8 ; and it was unveiled in presence of Her Majesty, 13 Oct. 1863. — A statue of the Queen herself, by the late Alexander Brodie, of Aberdeen, wasplacedinlS66atthe junction of Union and St Nicholas Streets. Of white Sicilian marble, and 8i feet high, it stands on a pedestal of polished Peterhead granite, 104 feet more. — A colossal bronze statue of Sir William "Wallace, 'returning defiant answer to the English am- bassadors before the battle of Stirling Bi'idge,' is also soon to be erected, Castle Street having been chosen for its site in June ISSO, and Mr John Steill, of Edinbm'gh, having left £4000 for the purpose.
The only noticeable bridge within the city is Telford's Union Bridge, in the line of Union Street, over the Den- bum (now the railway) Valley. Besides three blind arches, one on the W and two on the E, it has an open arch of 132 feet span, with parapets 52 feet above the ground below, is 70 feet wide, \vith carriage-way of 21, and was constructed (1800-3) at a cost of £13,342. — Dee Bridge, li mile SW of Union Place, was till recent time the only great thoroughfare over the Dee from Aberdeen to the south, and, though rurally situated, is connected with the city by a chain of suburbs, and is under the management of the town council. It originated in a bequestof £20,000, left by Bishop Elphiustone, to builda bridge across the Dee near Aberdeen. He died 25 Oct. 1514 ; and his successor, Bishop Gavin Dunbar, carried out the intention of the legacy, and finished the bridge in 1527. Consisting of 7 arches, each of 50 feet span, this bridge eventually fell into decay, was restored (1718-21) out of funds belonging to itself, and was widened (1841-42) from 14-i to 26 feet, and other\\ise gi'eatly improved, at a cost of £7250. — Wellington Suspension Bridge, spanning the Dee at Craiglug in the vicinity of Ferryhill, li mile below Dee Bridge, was erected in 1831 at a cost of £10,000, and is 220 feet long by 22 wide. — The Railway Viaduct (1848), on the Aberdeen section of the Caledonian, crosses the Dee transversely, 3 furlongs above the Suspension Bridge, and designed by Messrs Locke & Errington, consists of 7 iron- girder arches, each about 50 feet in span, with two land arches at its northern end. — Victoria Bridge, over the Dee's new channel, in a line with Market Street and Cross Quay, is a granite five-arch structure, opened on 2 July 1S81, having cost £25,000.— The Auld Brigo' Bal- gownie, built about 1320, either by Bishop Cheyne or by King Robert Bruce, crosses the Don, 2 J miles N by AV of Castle Street. A single Gothic arch, narrow and steep, of 67 feet span and 34i high above the black deep salmon pool below, it is commemorated by B}Ton in Don Juan, where a note records how a dread prediction made him pause to cross it, and yet lean over it with a childish delight. For he was his mother's only son, and the prophecy runs : —
' Brig o' Balgownie, black's j-our wa' (or, though wight be your wa'), Wi' a wife's ae son, and a uieer's ae foal, Down ye shall fa' ! '
In 1605 Sir Alexander Hay left lands of a yearly value of £2, 8s. 5id. to keep the Auld Brig in repair ; its ac- cumulated funds amounted (1872) to £23,153, though out of those funds in 1825 was built the new Bridge of Don, 500 yards lower down, for £17,100. With five 12
ABERDEEN
semicircular arches, each about 86 feet in span, this last is 26i feet wide and 41 high.
The Aberdeen railway, amalgamated (1866) with the Caledonian, was opened for traffic up to Guild Street terminus in 1848 ; and the Great North of Scotland was opened from Himtly to Kittybrewstcr in 1854, and thence extended, two years afterwards, to Waterloo terminus. The break — 700 j^ards of crowded quays — between these termini had proved a great hindrance to intercommunication, when, in 1864, the two com- panies were empowered to construct the Denburn Val- ley line, on a cajutal of £190,000, of which the Great North of Scotland subscribed £125,000. The junction railway runs If mile north-north-westward from Guild Street to Kittybrewstcr, being carried beneath Union Bridge, and through two short tunnels under Woolman Hill and Maberley Street ; and the Great North Com- pany abandoned their Waterloo branch, except for goods traffic, on the opening (1867) of the new Joint Guild Street station, which, over 500 feet long by 100 wide, is one of the finest stations in Scotland, its lofty iron-girder roof being modelled after that of Victoria station, Pimlico. — Street tramways, 2 miles, 54 chains long, on the line of Union, King, St Nicholas, and George Streets, were opened in 1874, and extended to Mannofield in 1880, their aggregate cost of construction being £18,791, whilst, in the year ending Jime 1879, the passengers numbered 957,115, and the receipts amounted to £5080, tho expenditure to £3959.
From a cistern, formed about 1766 at the head of Broad Street, and fed by the Fountainhall and other streams, 187,200 gallons of water were daily obtained ; but this supply proving insufficient, the police commis- sioners resolved in 1830 to sujiplement it from the Dee. A pump-house was accordingly erected near the N end of the Bridge of Dee ; but its two engines, each of 50 horse-power, could daily raise through a 15-inch main no more than 1,000,000 gallons to a gi'anite reservoir at the W end of Union Street, which, vd\.\\ storage capacity of 94,728 gallons, stood 40 feet higher than the street itself, and 130 higher than the pumping- station. This fresh supply, too, proving quite inade- quate, the commissioners next resolved, in 1862, to supersede pumping by gravitation, and to that end pro- cured powers to abstract between 2,500,000 and 6,000,000 gallons daily from the Dee at Cairnton, 23 miles up the river, and 224 feet above the level of the sea. Similar to those of Glasgow, and rivalled in Scotland by them alone, the new Aberdeen waterworks were planned by the late James Simpson, C.E. , of London. An aque- duct from Cairnton intake passes, by tunnel, through half a mile of rock, and thence goes half a mile further to Invercanny reservoir, in which 10,000,000 gallons can be stored, and from which the main aqueduct, 18 miles long, leads to the reservoir at Brae of Pitfodels. This, li mile WSW of Union Place, and 162 feet above sea-level, can hold 6,000,000 gallons ; and a high-ser- vice reservoir on Hillhead of Pitfodels (420 feet) con- tains about 500,000 more. Commenced in the spring of 1864, the waterworks were opened by the Queen on Oct. 16, 1866 ; their cost, which was estimated at £103,999, had reached £161,524 in 1872. During the three months April to June 1880, the daily water con- sumption was 4,378,780 gallons, 4,144,000 being from the low-service, and 234,780 from the high-service reser- voir ; while, for the twelvemonth ending vnfh the Sep- tember following, the water account showed an income of £13,023, and an outlay of £11,426.
Aberdeen has good natural drainage facilities, but has been slow to turn them to account. In 1865 there were but two or three common sewers in the new principal streets, besides the Denburn, the Holbm-n on the S, the Powis or Tyle Bum on the N, and a few tinier rills. Furnishing water-power to numerous works, these streams threw up the filth that they received ; the Den- burn, too, though often in summer almost dry, and though the outlet, Avithin 600 yards, of between 40 and 50 minor sewers, was disposed in cascades, and carried along an ornamental channel. Small wonder to
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ABERDEEN
find it described as 'highly polluted,' as 'bringing down to its mouth at the harbour a thick and fetid slime that exhales, at lo\v -water, great volumes of poisonous gas ; ' nay, even in the best quarters of the city some houses were solely drained into back -garden cesspools, iluch has been done since then ; the Denburn in its lower course having been covered over, and £62,695 expended during 1867-72 on the purchase of old, and the construction of new, sewers within the municipal bounds. In 1875, however, these works were described by Mr Alexander Smith, C.E. , as far from perfect, 'the main sewers having been laid in zones, almost on dead- level intercepting sewers with reversible outfalls, in- stead of being laid in a position to take advantage of the natural outfalls.' By one of the four main sewers 44 acres of the Spital lands were successfully irrigated in 1871 ; and in 1876 it was proposed thus to utilise all the sewage of the low-l}'ing parts of the city, 624 acres being required for the purpose. Two schemes were laid before the to^vn council, the cost of one being £31,221, of the other £29,540. In 1880 a surplus of £130 re- mained on the sewerage account, and of £336 on that of the public health. — The earliest Gas Light Company (1824) had their works near the present site of Guild Street station, whilst a new company (1840) had theirs at the Sandilands, just off the links ; and on these companies' amalgamation, the former premises were sold to the Scottish North Eastern. In 1871 the Sandilands works themselves were acquired by the corporation at a totalcost of £120,809.
For ages a mere expanse of open water, the harbour, so far back as the 14th century, seems to have been pro- tected by a bulwark, repaired or rebuilt in 1484. A stone pier on "the S side of the channel was formed between 1607 and 1610, in which latter year a great stone, called Knock Maitland or Craig Metellan, was removed from the harbour's entry ' by the renowned art and Industrie of that ingenious and vertuous citizen, David Anderson of Finzcauch, from his skill in mechanics popularly kno-nii as Davie do a' thing.' The eastward extension of the wharf, whereby a fine meadow of ground was re- claimed, was carried on slowly (1623-59), and before 1661 a shipbuilding dock had been constructed at Foot- dee ; but, all improvements notwithstanding, navigation continued difficult and perilous, owing to a bar of sand, on which at low tide was scarcely 2 feet of water. To remedy this evil, the magistrates in 1770 procured a plan from Smeaton, in accordance wherewith the new N pier was built (1775-81) at a cost of £18,000. Curv- ing slightly northwards, it had a length of 1200 feet, a height of from 16 to 30 feet, and a breadth of from 20 to 36 feet at the base, of from 12 to 24 at the top, its dimen- sions increasing seawards. By Telford this pier was ex- tended (1810-16) to a further length of almost 900 feet, at a cost of £66,000; and to protect it, a southern breakwater, nearly 800 feet long, was finished in 1815, at a cost of £14,000 more. The next great undertaking was the construction (1840-48) of the Victoria Dock, 28 acres in extent — 7J above Regent Bridge, — with 2053 yards of wharfage, and tide-locks 80 feet wide, the depth of water on whose sill is 21 feet at ordinary spring tides. This left about 18 acres of tidal harbour, and so things stood till Dec. 1869, when' was commenced the southward diversion of the Dee from the Suspension Bridge downwards. The new channel, curving a little over a mile, and at its bottom 170 feet wide, was com- pleted at a cost of £51,585 in 1872, the total sum ex- pended on harbour improvements up to that date since 1810 amounting to £1,509,638. Other works under the Act of 1868 have been the building of a new S breakwater of concrete, 1050 feet long and 47 high, at a cost of £76,443 (1870-73) ; a further extension of the N pier by 500 feet, at a cost of £44,000 (1874-77) ; and the filling up of the Dee's old bed, on which, in a line ■nith the dock-gates, it is now (1881) proposed to form a graving-dock, 559 by 74 feet, as also gradually to re- arrange the docks at a total cost of £72,000, by build- ing a new end to the Victoria Dock, \x\i\\ bridge and railway across, removing Regent Bridge and approaches,
lowering the dock-sill, pro^-iding a caisson bridge, etc. Girdleness Lighthouse, with two fixed lights, 115 and 185 feet above mean tide, was built in 1833 to the S of the harbour entrance, which, widened now to 400 yards, leads out of Aberdeen Bay, a safe enough anchorage this with offshore winds, though not with a NE, E, or SE wind. Valued at £13,874 in 1881, the har- bour is managed by 19 commissioners chosen from the town council, and by 12 other elected commis- sioners. The aggregate tonnage registered as belonging to the port was 310 in 1G56, 4964 in 1788, 17,131 in 1810, 34,235 in 1821, 30,460 in 1831, 38,979 in 1841, 50,985 in 1851, 74.232 in 1S61, 99,936 in 1871, 119,184 in 1879, and 118,182 on 31 Dec. 1880, viz.,— 158 sail- ing vessels of 92,217, and 53 steamships of 25,965 tons. The harbour revenue, again, was £7215 in 1811, £9161 in 1821, £12,239 in 1831, £18,657 in 1841, £20,190 in 1851, £28,4.36 in 1861, £32,292 in 1871, and £43,645 in 1879, when the expenditure was £36,634. Both lists show almost constant growth ; as like^^-ise does the fol- lo■^^"ing table, giving the aggregate tonnage of vessels that entered and cleared from and to foreign ports and coastwise, in cargoes, and also — for the three last years — in ballast : —
|
Entered. |
Cleared. |
|||||
|
1845 1856 1869 1874 1879 ISSO |
British. |
For'gn. |
Total. |
British. |
For'gn. |
Total. |
|
269,731 283,831 339,299 431,110 486,581 452,132 |
8,781 10,072 32,815 45,908 34,566 51,907 |
278,512 293,903 372,114 477,018 521,147 534,039 |
211,117 209,956 202,630 433,781 479,218 471,044 |
3,639 2,286 13,512 42,971 33,175 48,419 |
214,756 212 242 216|i42 476,752 512,393 519,463 |
Of the total, 2325 vessels of 534,039 tons, that entered in 1880, 1203 of 368,355 tons were steamers, 134 of 12,825 tons were in ballast, and 1969 of 439,451 tons were coasters ; whilst the total, 2122 of 512,393 tons, of those that cleared included 1177 steamers of 357,777 tons, 1066 vessels in ballast of 222,419 tons, and 2078 coasters of 467,306 tons. The trade is mainly, then, a coasting, and more an import than an export one ; and coal is a chief article of import, 277,356 tons having been received coastwise here in 1879. Other imports are lime, flax, hemp, jute, wool, timber, oats, wheat, maize, flour, salt, iron, bones, guano, etc. ; exports are flax and cotton fabrics, woollen cloths, grain, oatmeal, cattle, horses, sheep, pigs, pork, butter, eggs, salmon, preserved meats, granite, and Scotch pine timber. The amount of customs in 1862 was £92,963; in 1868, £80,415; in 1869, £77,447; in 1879, £98,632.
Shii>building was carried on as early as the 15th cen- tury, and in the days of wooden ships, the Aberdeen ' clipper bow,' of i\Iessrs Hall's invention, won for itself a wide repute. Its fame endures, but iron since 1839 has by degrees been superseding wood, in spite of re- moteness from coal and iron fields. During 1832-36 there were built here 38 vessels of 6016 tons, and during 1875-79 48 of 28,817 tons, of which 22 of 9595 tons were steamers ; in 18S0 the number was 7 of 5849 tons, all of them iron steamships. Aberdeen is head of the fishery district between Montrose and Peterhead, in which, during 1878, there were cured 93,344 barrels of white herrings, besides 51,800 cod, ling, and hake, taken by 374 boats of 3158 tons, the persons employed being 1006 fishermen and boys, 53 fish-curers, 194 coopers, and 3970 others ; and the ag- gregate value of boats, nets, and lines, being estimated at £34,261. For 1880 the herring catch was returned as 77,975 crans, against 76,125 in 1877, 63,740 in 1878, and 36,000 in 1879.
The manufactures of Aberdeen are at once extensive and varied, its industrial establishments in 1881 includ- ing 3 comb, 1 cotton, 3 linen, 10 woollen and wincey, 1 carpet, 2 tape, 3 soap and candle, 3 tobacco and snuff, and 3 pipe factories ; 2 paper mills ; the Kubislaw bleachfields ; 8 breweries ; 4 distilleries ; 4 chemical works ; 16 engineering, iron-founding, boiler, and agri-
13
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cultural implement works ; 4 saw, 2 file, 6 gun, and 4 brush factories ; 25 mills and meal stores ; 5 tan- ning or currj-ing works ; 12 rope, twine, and sail factories ; 2 brickfields, etc. , with — last but not least — the yards of 53 granite polishers and 6 stone mer- chants. — The hosiery trade of Scotland began in Aber- deen, with which the African Company (1695) con- tracted for woollen stockings ; and at the time when Pennant wrote (1771), 69,333 dozen pairs of stockings were yearly produced here, these being worth about 30s. per dozen, and being chiefly exported to Holland, for dispersion thence through Germany. But the trade has since dwindled into insignificance. — The linen manufacture, introduced about 1745, soon grew so large as to pay some £5000 a-year in wages ; and now, in the articles of thread, sailcloth, osnaburgs, brown linens, and sacking, employs between 2000 and 3000 hands. The thread manufacture was introduced at a later date than the spinning ; was soon carried to great perfection ; and emploj'ed 600 men, 2000 women, and 100 boys in 1795, when the sailcloth manufacture was commenced. — Several large flax-spinning factories were established on the Don, near Old Aberdeen, about 1800. — The woollen manufactm-e, in the beginning of last century, comprised chiefly coarse slight cloths, called plaidens and fingi'oms. These were made by the farmers and cottagers from the wool of their own sheep, by the citizens from wool supplied by country hill- farms, and were mostly exported to Hamburg. "Woollen factories were established in the city about 1748 ; are still there of considerable extent ; and belong to the same proprietors as factories at Garlogie and Don, with these consiuning about 2,000,000 lbs. of wool per annum, and emplopng upwards of 1400 hands. The carpet manufactm'e has an annual value of about £50,000, the tweed manufacture (at Grandholm em- ploying nearly 600 hands) of more than £120,000, and the wincey manufacture of at least £250,000. The aggi-egate woollen trade employs at least 600 hand- looms, 230 power-looms, and 3000 or more persons ; and annually produces upwards of 3,000,000 yards of fabrics. — Banner Mill is now the only cotton factory, but is so extensive as to employ above 650 hands. — The meat-preserving trade of Scotland was commenced at Aberdeen in 1822 ; made slow progi'ess for a time, till it overcame prejudice and created a market ; began by preserving salmon for exportation, and proceeded to the preserving of meats, game, soups, and vegetables ; is now carried on in several establishments ; employs up- wards of 500 persons, produces preserved provisions to the annual value of about £221,000 ; supplies a large i:)roportion of the meat stores to ships sailing from Glasgow, Liverpool, and London ; and has extensive connection with India, China, and Australia. Salmon, caught chiefly in the Dee and Don, appears to have been exported from as early as 1281, and was shipped to the Continent towards the end of the 17th century, at the rate of about 360 barrels yearly, of 250 lbs. each. The quantity sent to London, during the seven years 1822-28, amounted to 42,654 boxes, and during the eight years 1829-36 to 65,260 boxes ; but later years have \vitnessed a decline. Dried whitings and haddocks, sometimes called Aberdeen haddocks from their being shipped at Aberdeen, oftener called Tin don or Finnan haddocks from a village about 6 miles to the S where they were originally dried for the market, are a considerable article of commerce coastwise as far as to London. Beef and miitton also are largely prepared for exportation ; and, together with live stock, are forwarded to the southern markets to the value of about £1,000,000 a-year. — Steam-engines, anchors, chains, cables, and all kinds of machinery are manu- factured in extensive ironworks at Ferry hill, Footdee, and other localities. — Rope-making, paper-making, soap- making, comb-making, and leather manufacture also are carried on. — The granite trade has been associated •with Aberdeen for fully 300 years ; and now it makes a very great figure. Eli'ective quarrying was not begun till about 1750, nor the exporting tUl 1764 ; whilst the 14
ABERDEEN
use of machinery in quarrying dates only from about 1795, the dressing of the gi-anite into regular cubes from 1800, and the polishing of granite for manufacture into monuments, columns, fountains, etc. , from 1818. But now the trade in dressed blocks for paving, bridges, wharves, docks, and lighthouses, and so forth, is gigantic ; while that in polished granite, or in numer- ous and diversified ornamental articles of polished granite, at once exercises remarkable artistic skill, and is considerably and increasingly extensive. Upwards of 80,000 tons of granite are cpiarried annually in Aber- deenshire and the contiguous parts of Kincardineshire, and more than half of the quantity quarried is exported. The quarrying employs upwards of 1000 hands ; the transporting and the working employ a proportionally large number of hands, and the polishing and con- structing into ornamental objects employ very many skilled workmen. The tons of granite exported from Aberdeen were 25.557 in 1840, 3"o,3S5 in 1850, 32,023 in 1865, 43,790 in 1867, and upwards of 50,000 in 1868.
A weekly grain market is held on Friday ; a linen market, on the Green, is held on the last Wednesday of April ; a wool market, also on the Green, is held on Thursday and Friday of the fij-st week of June, and of the first and second weeks of July ; and a market for wooden utensils, in Castle Street, is held on the last Wednesday of August ; but none of these, except the weekly one, is now of importance. Hiring markets are held in Castle Street on several Fridays about AVhit- sunday and Martinmas.
A printing-press was started by Edward Raban in 1621, from which in 1626 the earliest Scottish almanac was issued, and in 1748 the Aberdeen Journal, the oldest newspaper N of the Forth. There now are 16 printing-offices, and 7 newspapers — the daily and Saturday Conservative Journal (1748), the Satiu'day Liberal Herald (1806), the Liberal Daihj Free Press (1853), the Tuesday Northern Advertiser (1856), the Saturday Liberal Pcojile's Journal (1858), the Saturday Weekly Keics (1864), and the Evening Express (1879). — The Spalding Club was instituted in 1839, for printing historical, ecclesiastical, genealogical, topographical, and literary remains of the north-eastern counties of Scot- land ; and issued to its members nearly 40 volumes of gi-eat interest and value, including Dr Stewart's Sculp- tured Stones of Scotland and The Booh of Deer ; but it came to a close in 1870. See John Stuart's Notices of the S'palding Club (1871).
The Town Council consists of a Lord Provost, 6 bailies, 6 oflice-bearers, 12 councillors, and 8 others ; and the municipal constituency numbered 1902 in 1841, 2961 in 1851, 2701 in 1861, 9347 in 1871, and 12,193 in 1881. The corporation revenue was £15,184 in 1832, £18,648 in 1840, £16,894 in 1854, £11,376 in 1864, £11,447 in 1870, £12,560 in 1874, and (including assessments and gas revenue) £122,328 in 1880, when for the twelvemonth ending with September, the revenue on the general purposes account was £28,699, the ex- penditure £25,450, and the outlay on capital account £73,044. By the Aberdeen Municipality Extension Act of 1871, the powers of the former commissioners of police were transferred to the town coimcil, the busi- ness of the police department being thenceforth managed by separate committees. The watching force for city and harbour comdsts of a supermtendent (salary £350), 2 lieutenant.?, 3 inspectors, 4 detectives, 9 sergeants, 87 constables, and a female turnkey, the total cost of that force being £6955, 10s. in 1878 ; and the nimibor of persons arrested was 1959 in 1875, 2085 in 1876, 1939 in 1877, 1077 in 1878, 1873 in 1879, and 1988 in 1880, of which last number 1817 were tried, and 1755 convicted. The shcrifi" court for the county is held in the Court-House on Wednesdays and Fridays, the small debt court on Thursdays, the debts recovery court on Fridays, the commissary court on Wednesdays, and the general quarter sessions on the first Tuesday of March, May, and August, and the last Tuesday of October. — The jjarliamentary constituency numbered 2024 in 1834,
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3586 in 1861, and 14,146 in 1S81, of wTiora 3037 be- longed to tlie First Ward, 3842 to the Second, 3313 to the°Tliird, 1997 to the Foui-th, 522 to the Fifth or Ruthrieston, 849 to the Sixth or Woodside, and 586 to the Seventh or Old Aberdeen. The burgh returns one member to Parliament — always a Liberal since 1837, the present member polling 7505 votes in 1880 against his opponent's 3139.— The annual value of real property within the parliamentary burgh, assessed at £101,613 in 1815, has risen since the passing of the Valuation Act from £178,168 in 1856, to £193,336 in 1861, £226,534 in 1866, £283,650 in 1871, £323,197 in 1876, and (exclusive of £14,403 for railways, tram- ways, and waterworks) £414,864, 4s. in 1881, this last sum being thus distributed :— East parish, £28,428, 4s. lid. ; West, £36,815, 17s. 2d. ; North, £27,802, 3s. lOd. ; South, £37,085, 15s. Id. ; Grevfriars, £23,298, 8s. ; St Clement's, £48,744, 7s. 8d. ; Old Machar, £212,410, 17s. 4d. ; and Banchory-Devenick, £278, 10s. — Tlie population is said to have numbered 2977 in 1396, 4000 in 1572, 5833 in 1581, 8750 in 1643, 5556 in 1708, and 15,730 in 1755, the last being that of the parliamentary burgh, which during the present century is shown by the Census thus to have increased — (1801) 26,992, (1811) 34,649, (1821) 43,821, (1831) 56,681, (1841) 63,288, (1851) 71,973, (1861) 73,805, (1871) 88,189, (1881) 105,003, of whom 399 belonged to the City Poorhouse, 247 to the Royal Infirmary, 165 to the shipping, 21 to the Naval Reserve, 50,525 (26,455 females) to St Nicholas, and 56,002 (31,140 females) to Old Machar, the subdi^■isions of these two last being given under the Churches, on p. 9.
Old Abeedeex, though falling within the parlia- mentary bui'gh, and though barely 1| mile N by AV of Castle Street, yet merits separate notice as an inde- pendent burgh of regality, as a quondam episcopal city, and as the seat of a imiversity. Consisting chiefly of a single street, it commences at Spital, near the N end of Gallowgate, and thence extends a good mile north- ward to the immediate vicinity of the Don. "With its gardens and orchards, it wears a quiet countrified appearance, and, but for a few modern villas here and there, might almost be said to have remained three centrndes unchanged. The northern end is strikingly picturesque, the Chanonry there, or andent cathedral precinct, containing once cathedral, ejiiscopal palace, deanery, prebends' lodgings, etc., and though now stripped of some of its features, presenting still in the massive form and short spiked steeples of the cathedral, amid a cluster of fine old trees on the cro'wn of a bank sloping down to the Don, a scene of beauty hardly ex- celled by aught of the kind in Britain.
The Town-House stands about 300 yards S of the cathedral ; was built in 1702, and renovated towards the end of the century ; and contains a large hall, a council-room, and other official chambers. — The cross stood in front of the site of the Town-House, included a stepped pedestal, and a shaft surmoimted by a figure of the Virgin ; and was defaced at the Reformation, re- moved when the To-wn-House was rebuilt. — A well at the Town-House was formed in 1769, with a cistern in what had been called the Thief s Hole ; and was pro- vided with 625 yards of piping. — The entrance-gate to Powis' Garden fronts the College buildings, has a lofty roimd tower on either side, surmounted by gilded crescents, and forms a marked feature in the burghal landscape. — The Hermitage crowning an eminence in Powis' Garden is another picturesque object ; and a conical mount, the Hill of Tillydi'one, a little AV of the cathedral, is said by some to have been artificially formed by Bruce's soldiers for a watchguard station ; by others, to have served for beacon fires ; by others, to have been the seat of ancient civil, criminal, or ecclesi- astical courts.
The exact date of the erection of the see of Aberdeen is unknown, the legend of its original foundation by Malcolm II. at Mohtlach in Bantishire resting on five forged documents. Thence it is said to have been transferred by David I. (1124-53), but all that is certain
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is that a charter granted by the Mormaer of Buchan for refounding the church of Deer early in David's reign was witnessed by 'Nectan, Bishop of Aberdeen,' whilst a bull by Pope Adrian IV. confirmed in 1157 to Edward, Bishop of Aberdeen, the church of Aberdeen and the church of St ilachar, with the to'\\Ti of Old Aberdeen and other lands (Skene's Celt. Scot., vol. ii. , 1876, p. 378). Do^vn to the Reformation, the see was held by 26 bishops, the twelfth of whom, Alexander Kinin- inonth II. (1356-80), laid the foundations of the present Cathedral of SS. Mary and Machar, preserving nothing of two earlier structures. The work was carried on by his successors, and in 1532 the cathedral presented a five-baj'ed nave, an aisleless choir, a transept, lady- chapel, and consistory, with two western octagonal steejiles 113^ feet high, and a great central tower of freestone, rising 150 feet, in which hung 14 bells. De- struction soon succeeded to construction, for the Meams rabble in 1560 despoiled the cathedral of all its costly ornaments, demolishing the choir ; the transepts were crushed by the fall of the central tower in 1688. All that remains is the nave, now the parish church (126 by 67i feet), a parvised S porch, the western towers, and fragments of the transept walls, containing the richly sculptured but mutilated tombs of Henry de Lichtoim (d. 1440), Gavin Dunbar (d. 1532), and a third lmkno■^^-n bishop. The only granite cathedral in the world, this, although dating from the Second Pointed age, has many survivals of the Norman style, notably its short massive rounded piers and plain unmoulded ' storm ' or clerestory windows ; other features are the gi'eat western window, divided by six long shafts of stone, a low-browed doorway beneath it with heavy semicircular arch, and the finely carved pulpit, a relic of the wood-carvings, that else were hewn in pieces in 1649. The plainness of the whole is redeemed by the carving and gilding of a flat panelled oaken ceiling, emblazoned with the arms of 48 benefactors, and restored in 1869-71, when two galleries also were removed, and other improvements efl'ected under the super\dsion of the late Sir G. G. Scott at a total cost of £4280. Five stained-glass windows, too, have been inserted (1871-74), the western to the Duke of Gordon's memory, another to that of the Aberdonian painters, Jameson, Phillip, and Dyce. (See Billings, vol. i. , 1848; and Walcott's Scoti-Monasticon, 1874, -with authorities cited there). — E of the cathedral the iDishop's palace (c. 1470), with a large fair coui't and 4 high towers, stood near the site of the present resi- dence of the Divinity Professor ; to the S stood the deanery, on ground now occupied by Old ilachar Manse ; and to the W was a hospital founded in 1532 by Bishop Gavin Dunbar for 12 poor bedesmen ; its revenues now are distributed to 18 men in their own homes. — A church and a hospital, dedicated to St Peter, stood \rithin Spital burying-gi'ound, near the S end of the town ; and another church, St Mary ad Nives, commonly called Snow Kirk, stood behind houses a little NW of the Spital burying-gi'omid. Both churches, by an act of Parliament in 1583, were imited to the cathedral church. The western portion of Spital burying-ground is very ancient, but the eastern is recent ; the Snow Kirk burjing-gi'ound is now the Roman Catholic ceme- tery. — The Free church, the only place of worship now in Old Aberdeen besides the cathedral, stands about midway between it and King's College, and is a neat edifice, renovated in 1880.
King's College stands on the E side of the main street, nearly I mile S of the cathedral. It was begun in 1500, and now exhibits a mixture of architecture, mediteval and modem. Its original form, a complete quadrangle, with three towers, is depicted in a curious painting of the 17th centurj', preserved within the college ; but one of these towers has perished, another is only a fragment. The third, 100 feet high, was rebuilt about 1636 at the NW corner, and is a massive structure, buttressed nearly to the top, and bearing aloft a lantern of crossed rib arches, surmounted by a beautiful imperial crown, with finial cross. Lantern and crown somewhat re- semble those of St Giles', Edinburgh, and St Nicholas',
15
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Newcastle-on-TjTie ; but they liave much less of the spire about them, and are far more in keejiing with the spirit of Gothic architecture. The adjoining western or street front is a reconstruction of 1826, and. Perpendi- cular in style, is out of harmony with the tower. The entire original college appears to have been executed in a mixture of the Scottish and the French Gothic styles ; and was specially distinguished by the retention of the semicircular arch, at a time long subsequent to the general use of the pointed arch throughout England. Much of that pile still stands, preserving all its original features, and serving as one of the best extant specimens of the Scottish architecture of its period. The W side of the quadrangle is disposed in class-rooms ; the S side consists of plain building, mth a piazza ; and the E side contains the common hall, 62 by 22i feet, en- riched with portraits and vrith. Jameson's famous paint- ings of the Ten Sibyls. The N side contains the chapel and the library, and for interior character is deeply in- teresting. The chapel is the choir of the original college church, and has canopied stalls of beautifully carved black oak, with screens of the same material, 'which,' says Hill Burton, * for beauty of Gothic design and practical finish, are perhaps the finest piece of carved work existing in the British Empire.' The tomb of Bishop Elphin- stone is in the middle of the chapel, and was once highly ornamented, but is now covered with an uninscribed slab of black marble. The library is the former nave, measures 58 feet by 29, retains the original W window of the church, and is separated from the chapel by a parti- tion wall. The imiversity library possesses more than 90,000 volumes, and there are also museums of natural history, medicine, archeology, etc.
A scholastic institution, serving as a germ of the college, existed from the time of Malcolm IV. The col- lege itself originated in a bull of Pope Alexander VI., ob- tained by application of James IV. , on supplication of Bishop Elphinstone, for a imiversity to teach theology, canon and civil law, medicine, and the liberal arts, and to grant degrees. The bull was issued in 1494, but did not take effect till 1505. The college was dedicated to the Holy Trinity and the Virgin Mary, but being placed under the immediate protection of the king came to be known as King's College. James IV. and Bishop Elphinstone endowed it with large revenues. Six teachers for life and five for a certain number of years, were to carry on its tuition. The primus was styled principal, and was to be a master of theology ; the second, third, and fourth were the doctors of canon and civil law and of medicine ; the fifth was styled regent and sub- principal, and was to be a master of arts ; the sixth was to teach literature, and to be also a master of arts ; the five not holding their positions for life were like- \vise to be masters of arts ; and all eleven, except the doctor of medicine, were to be ecclesiastics. A faithful model of the University of Paris, King's College, with its four ' nations ' of Slar, Buchan, Moray, and Angus, par- took partly of a monastic, partly of an eleemosynary, character ; but, as it progressed, it underwent change, at once in its practical working, in the staff of its profes- sors, and in the amount of its endo^vments. It became comparatively very wealthy towards the era of the Refor- mation, and had it been allowed to retain the wealth which it had then acquired it might at the present day have vied with the great colleges of England ; but, through the grasping avarice of Queen Slary's courtiers, it was deprived of much of its property. • It, however, received some new possessions from Charles I. ; it had, in 1836, an income of £2363 from endowments and crown grants ; and it acquired £11,000 from a bequest by Dr Simpson, of Worcester, in 1840, when its bur- saries numbered 128, of the aggregate yearly value of £1643. In 1838, the University Commissioners had re- commended that King's College here, and ]\Iarischal College in Aberdeen, should be united into one univer- sity, to be called the University of Aberdeen, with its seat at Old Aberdeen, and that recommendation Avas adopted in tlie Universities Act of 1858, and carried into effect on Sept. 15, 1860. Holding the funds of 16
both colleges, and ranking from the year 1494, the date of King's College, the university has 250 bui'saries, of which 223 are attached to the faculty of arts, and 27 to that of theology. They vary from £5 to £50, and average fully £20 apiece, their aggregate value being £5179 ; there are also eight scholarships of fi'om £70 to £100 per annum. The classes for arts and divinity are now held in King's College, and those for law and medicine in Marischal College. The session, in arts and divinity, extends from the beginning of November to the first Friday of April ; in law, from the first Monday of November to the end of ]\Iarch ; and in medicine, for ■ft-inter, from last AVednesday of October to the end of April, for summer, from the fii'st Monday of May to the end of July. The general council meets twice a year — on the "Wednesday after the second Tuesday of April, and on the Wednesday after the second Tuesday of October. The chief officers are a chancellor, elected by the general council ; a vice-chancellor, appomted by the chancellor ; a lord rector, elected by the matriculated students ; a principal, appointed by the Cro-wn ; and four assessors, chosen by respectively the chancellor, the rector, the general council, and the senatus academicus. The university court consists of the rector, the principal, and the four assessors ; and the senatus academicus con- sists of the principal and the professors. The chairs, with the dates of their establishment and their emolu- ments, including estimated amounts from fees, are — Greek (1505, £607) ; humanity (1505, £578) ; mathe- matics (1505, £536) ; natural philosophy (1505, £524) ; moral philosophy (1505, £492) ; natural history (1593, £468) ; logic (1860, £492) ; divinity and church history (1616, £486) ; systematic theology (1620, £566) ; Oriental languages (1674, £439) ; divinity and biblical criticism (1860, £130) ; law (1505, £303) ; chemistry (1505, £531) ; practice of medicine (1700, £254) ; anatomy (1839, £600) ; surgery (1839, £266) ; medical logic and medical jurisprudence (1857, £222) ; institutes of medicine (1860, £272); materia medica (1860, £242) ; raidmfery (1860, £223); and botany (1860, £377). The Crown appoints to 16 of the chairs, the univer- sity court to 5, and a composite body of 20 mem- bers to the chair of systematic theology. There are also three lectureships — one called the Murray Sunday Lecture (1821), one on practical religion (1825), and one on agi'iculture (1840) ; as well as assistantships to the Greek, humanity, mathematics, natural philosophj', chemistry, anatomy, materia medica, and medical logic and jurisprudence chairs, all instituted in 1860. The Act of 185S awarded compensation, to the aggregate amount of £3500 a-year, to such professors and others as were displaced by new arrangements, authorised the erection of new buildings at King's College, and I'epairs and alterations in Marischal College, at an estimated cost of respectively £17,936 and £800, and fixed a new scale of emoluments, allotting £599 a-year to the prin- cipal, and to professors as given above. The number of members of the general council in 1880 was 2649 ; of matriculated students in the winter session (1879-80) 701, and in the summer session (1880) 233. The gradu- ates in 1880 were— M.A., 65; M.D., 25; M.B., 51; CM., 48; D.D., 3; and B.D., 1. The University of Aberdeen unites with that of Glasgow under the Reform Act of 1867, in sending a member to Parliament ; they have always returned a Conservative since 1869, the pre- sent member in 1880 polling 2520 against his opponent's 2139 votes.
The Grammar School stands E of the Town-House ; is a very modest building, with a small playground ; has accommodation for 91 scholars ; and is chiefly engaged in preparing boys for university bursaries. It dates from time immemorial ; but, strictly speaking, is only a sessional school, connected with the kirk-scssion of Old Machar. The Gymnasium, or Chanonry School, is private property, but has some characteristics of an important public school ; was opened in 1848, with de- sign to prepare boys for the university ; has accommoda- tion for boarders, 9 class-rooms with capacity for at least 150 boys, and 2 playgrounds ; and is conducted by
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tue proprietor, a rector, and 7 masters. There are also a public school and a Bell's school, which, with respec- tive accommodation for 200 and 353 children, had (1879) an average attendance of 235 and 280, and grants of £209, 7s, and £267, 19s. Mitchell's Hospital stands in the south-western vicinity of the cathedral, is a one-story edifice, forming three sides of a square, with garden at- tached, and was founded in 1801 for lodging, clothing, and maintaining 5 widows and 5 unmarried daughters of burgesses of Old Aberdeen.
The'magistrates, from the al)olition of Episcopacy till 1723, were appointed by the Crown, and from 1723 till the passing of the Municipal Act, were elected by their own predecessors. The town council consists now of a provost, 4 bailies, 8 merchant councillors, trades coun- cillors, and a treasurer. The magistrates are trustees of £2792 3 per cent, consols as endowment of Dr Bell's school ; and some of them share in the management of Mitchell's Hospital. The burgh is ill-defined as to limits, has little property, and no debts. There are 7 incor- porated trades, but no guildry. Pop. (1851) 1490, (1861) 1785, (1871) 1857, (1S81) 2186.
Colonel Robertson maintains, in his Gaelic Tojjograjyliy (1869), that by old -WTiters New Aberdeen was always discriminated from Old Abcrclon ; the former he de- rives from the Gaelic ahliir-reidh-an ('smooth river confluence'), the latter from ahhir-domhain ('deep con- fluence '). Such discrimination, however, exists in his imagination only, the name of both kirktoAvn and sea- port being %Tritten indifl'erently Aherdoen, Aberdon, Abcrdin, Abcrdene, etc., and in Latin oftenest appearing as Aberdonia ; so that one may take it to mean the ford or mouth of either Don or Dee, according as one assigns the priority of foundation to Old or New Aberdeen. And history fails us here, save only that, whilst Old Aber- deen was possibly the seat of a Columban monastery, New Aberdeen is certainly not identical with Devana, a town of the Taexali in the 2d century A.D., Ptolemy placing this fully 30 miles inland, near the Pass of Bal- later, and close to Loch Daven. The earliest mention, then, of Aberdeen is also the earliest mention of its see, already referred to on p. 15 ; next in Snorro's Ice- landic Heimshringla, we read, under date 1153, how Eysteinn, a Norwegian kinglet, set forth on a freebooting voyage, and, touching at Orkney, thence spread his sails southwards, and ' steering along the eastern shores of Scotland, brought his ships to the town of Apardion, where he killed many people, and wasted the city.' Again, the Orkneyinga Saga records how Swein Asleif's son went over to Caithness and up through Scotland, and in Apardion was well entertained for a month by Malcolm IV., 'who then was nine winters old,' which places this visit in 1162. Of authentic charters, the oldest was granted about 1179 by AVilliam the Lyon at Perth, and confirmed to his burgesses of Aberdeen the free-trade privilege enjoyed by their forefatliers under his grandsire David I. (1124-53) ; and William here esta- blished an exchequer with a mint, and built a palace, which he bestowed in 1211 on monks of the Holy Trinity. Alexander II. kept Yule in Aberdeen (1222), founded its Blackfriars or Dominican priory, and allowed its burgesses to hold a Sunday market ; during his reign the town was accidently destroyed by fire (1224). Under Alexander III. (1249-85) the Castle was built, the burgh common seal is mentioned (1271), and we first hear of a provost or alderman (1284). On 14th July 1296, Edward I. , in his progress through the realm, came unto Aber- deen, ' a fair castell and a good to\Mi vpon the see, and tarayed there v. days ;' a little later Wallace is said by Blind Harry to have burned 100 English vessels in the haven. Bruce, from his rout at Methven (1306), took refuge in Aberdeen ; and to this period belongs the legend how the citizens, waxing hot in his cause, rose suddenly by night in a well-planned insurrection, cap- tured the castle, razed it to the gi'ound, and put to the sword its English gamson. ' In honour,' adds Bailie Skene, 'of that resolute act,' they got their Ensignes- Armoriall, which to this day they bear — Gules, three Towres triple, towered on a double- Treasure counter- 2
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flowered Argent, supported liy two Leopards propper ; the Motto, in an Escroll above, their watchword Ijon AccoKD.' The legend is solely due to Hector Boece's inventive genius, but the garrison was really driven out, and in 1319 King Robert conveyed to the com- munity the royal forest of Stocket and the valuable fishings of the Dee and Don, with various other privileges and im- munities, his ' being the Great Chai'ter of the city, from which it dates its political constitution. ' In 1333, Edward IIL Seal of Aberdeen,
having sent a fleet to
harry the eastern coast, a body of English attacked by night the town of Aberdeen, which they burned and de- stroyed ; in 1336, Edward himself having marched as far north as Inverness, the citizens stoutly encountered at the W end of the Green an English force which had landed at Dunnottar, and slew their leader. Sir Thomas Roslyne. In vengeance whereof Edward, returning, once more burned theto-wn, which, being rebuilt on an extended scale, with material aid from King David Bruce, received the title of 'New Aberdeen.' That monarch resided some time in the city, and erected a mint and held a parliament at it, whilst confirming all his predecessors' grants; Robert III., too, struck coins at Aberdeen. During the captivity of James I. and the minority of James II., the citizens bore arms for their own protec- tion, built walls around the town, kept the gates care fully shut by night, and by day maintained an armed patrol of their own number. In 1411, when the Earl of Mar collected forces to oppose an inroail of Donald of the Isles upon the north-west of the shire. Sir Robert David- son, Provost of Aberdeen, led a band of the citizens to swell the earl's forces, and fell at their head in the battle of Haelaw. In 1462 the magistrates entered into a ten years' bond with the Earl of Huntly, to pro- tect them in their freedom and property, whilst, saving their allegiance to the Crown, they should at any time receive him and his followers into the city. In 1497 a blockhouse was erected at the entrance of the harbour as a protection against the English. James IV. paid several visits to Aberdeen ; and once, in 1507, he rode in a single day from Stirling, through Perth and Aber- deen, to Elgin. Margaret his queen was sumptuously entertained (1511), as also were James V. (1537) and Mary of Guise (1556). In 1525 the citizens were attacked, and 80 of them killed or wounded by a foraging party under three country lairds ; and in consequence the town was put into a better state of defence. The plague raged here in 1401, 1498, 1506, 1514, 1530, 1538, 1546, 1549, 1608, and 1647 ; and on the last occasion carried off 1760 persons, or more than a iifth of the whole population. In 1547 a body of Aberdonians fought with great gallantry at the disastrous battle of Pinkie ; in the early part of 1560 the city firmly received the doctrines of the Reformation, and for ' first minister of the true word of God ' had Adam Heriott, who died in 1574. In 1562, during the conflict between the Earl of Huntly's and Queen Mary's forces, Aberdeen seems to have been awed equally by both parties ; but it suc- cumbed to the queen after her victory at Corrichie, and at it she witnessed the execution of Sir John Gordon, Huntly's second son. On 20 Nov. 1571, the Gor- dons and Forbeses met at the Craibstone between the city and the Bridge of Dee ; and in a half-hour's fight the Forbeses were routed, with a loss of 300 men to themselves, of 30 to the Gordons. James VI. paid visits to Aberdeen in 1582, 1589, 1592, 1594, and 1600 ; on these occasions entailing nmch expense on the citizens, both in entertainments and in money-gifts. The witcli
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persecution here about this time resulted in the death from torture of many persons in prison, and in the burning, ■vritliin the two years 1596-97, of 22 women and 1 man on the Castle Hill (Chambers' Dom. Annals, i. 278-285). In 1605 a General Assembly was convened at Aber- deen by Jlelville and others of the High Presbyterian party, but only 9 attended, who for their pains were 5 of them banished the realm, the others summoned to the English Court ; in 1616 another General Assemblj' resolved that ' a litm-gy be made and form of divine service.' A Cavalier stronghold, Aberdeen and the country around it rejected the Covenant, so in 1638 a committee of ministers — Henderson, Dixon, and Andrew Cant — was sent, with the Earl of IMontrose at their head, to compel the people to sign. Their mission was thwarted by the famous ' Aberdeen Doctors ; ' but Mont- rose next year tmce occupied and taxed the city, on the second occasion \vinning admittance by the trifling skirmish of the Bridge of Dee, 19 June 1639. In the following May, too, Jlonro with his thousand deboshed Covenanters, subjected the townsfolk to grievous oppres- sion ; and continued harassment had at last subdued them to the Covenanting cause, when, on 13 Sept. 1644, Montrose, as Royalist, re-entered Aberdeen, having routed the Covenanters between the Craibstone and the Justice Mills. 'In the fight,' says Spalding, 'there was little slaughter ; but horrible the slaughter in the flight, the lieutenant's men he^\ang do^\Ti all they could overtake within and about the town.' So that, as Dr Hill Burton observes, Montrose ' in his two first visits chastised the commimity into conformity ■with the Covenant, and now made compensation by chastising them for having yielded to his inflictions.' Charles II. lodged (7 July 1650) in a merchant's house just opposite the Tolbooth, on which was fastened one of Montrose's hands ; on 7 Sept. 1651, General Monk led a Commonwealth army into the cit}', where it continued several years. The Restoration was hailed by the Aberdouians with as great delight as the Revolution was looked on with disfavour ; yet scant enthusiasm was roused in Sept. 1715 by the Earl Marischal's proclamation at the Cross of James VIII., who himself on 24 Dec. passed incognito through the citj', on his way from Peterhead to Fetteresso, where the Episcopal clergy and the new Jacobite magistrates of Aberdeen off"ered him homage. In the '45 Cope's force en- camped on the site of Union Terrace, and embarked from Aberdeen for Dunbar ; the Duke of Gordon's cham- berlain again proclaimed James YIII. ; Lord Le\\-is Gordon next occupied the city ; and lastly the Duke of Cumberland lodged for 6 weeks in Guestrow. Two or three years before, between 500 and 600 persons of either sex had been kidnapped in Aberdeen for trans- portation to the American plantations ; one of them, Peter "Williamson, returning in 1765, and issuing the narrative of his bondage, was imprisoned and banished for defamation of the magistrates, but eventually ob- tained from them £285 damages (Blacktcood's Mag., May 1848). In a riot on the King's birthday (1802) 4 of the populace were shot by the military ; 42 of the Oscar's crew were drowned in the Grayhope (1813) ; and out of 260 persons attacked by cholera (1832) 105 died. The Queen and Prince Albert visited Aberdeen on their way to Balmoral (7 Sept. 1848), and the latter pre- sided at the British Association (14 Sept. 1859) ; whilst Her Majesty unveiled the Prince Consort Memorial (13 Oct. 1863), and opened the waterworks (16 Oct. 1866), then making her first public speech since her bereavement. Aberdeen has been the meeting-place of the British Association (1859), of the Social Science Congress (1877), and of the Highland and Agricultural Society (1840, '47, '58, '68, and '76).
The ' brave to^vn ' gives title of Earl of Aberdeen (ere. 1682) in the peerage of Scotland, of Viscount Gordon of Aberdeen (ere. 1814) in that of the United Kingdom, to a branch of the Gordon family, whose seat is Haddo House. Its illustrious natives are — Jn. Abercrombie, M.D. (1780-1844); Alex. Anderson (flo. 1615), mathe- matician ; Prof. Alex. Bain (b. 1818), logician ; Jn. 18
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Barbour, archdeacon of Aberdeen from 1357 to 1395, and author of the Brics; And. Baxter (1686-1750), meta- physician ; Thos. Blackwell (1701-57), scholar; his brother Alexander, the botanist (beheaded at Stock- holm, 1747); Alex. Brodie (1830-67), sculptor; Jn. Bm-net (1729-84), merchant and benefactor; Jn. Burnett (1764-1810), legal writer; Jn. Hill Burton, LL.D. (1809-81), historian; Geo. Campbell, D.D. (1719-96), divine and gi'ammarian ; Alex. Chalmers (1759-1834), biographer and miscellaneous ^^Titer ; Alex. Cruden (1701- 70), author of the Co'iicorJancc ; Geo. Dalgarno (1626- 87), inventor of a universal language ; Jn. Dick, D.D. (1764-1833), Secession divine; Jas. Donaldson, LL.D. {b. 1831), rector of Edinburgh High School; "Walter Donaldson, 17th century scholar ; Jas. Matthews Dun- can, M.D. (b. lS26);""Wm. Duncan (1717-60), trans- lator; "Wm. Dyce, R.A. (1806-64); Wm. Forbes (1585- 1634), Bishop of Edinburgh ; Jn. Forbes Robertson (b. 1822), art-critic ; Dav. Fordyce (1711-51), professor of philosophy in ilarischal College ; his brothers, James Fordj-ce, D.D. (1720-96), and Sir "Wm. Fordyce (1724- 92), an eminent phj-sician ; Jas. Gibbs (1688-1754), architect ; Gilbert Gerard (1760-1815), divine ; his son, Alexander (d. 1839), explorer; Thos. Gray (d. 1876), artist ; Dav. Gregory (1661-1710), geometrician ; Jn. Gregory, M.D. (1724-73), and his son, James Gregory, M.D. (1753-1821) ; "Wm. Guild, D.D. (1586-1657), prin- cipal of King's College ; Gilbert Jack (1578-1628), meta- physician ; Alex. Jatfray (1614-73), diarist, provost, and Quaker; George Jameson (1586-1644), the 'Scottish "V^andyke;' Geo. Keith (c. 1650-1715), Quaker and anti- Quaker; Sir Jas. M'Grigor, Bart. (1771-1858), head of the army medical department ; Prof. Dav. Masson (b. 1822), litterateur; Major Jas. Mercer (1734-1803); Colin Milne, LL.D. (1744-1815), botanist ; Rt. Morison, M.D. (1620-83), botanist; Thos. Morison (flo. 1594), physician and anti-papist; Jn. OgiMe, D.D. (1733-1814), minor poet ; Jas. Peny (1756-1821), journalist ; Jn. Phillip, R.A. (1817-67) ; And. Robertson (1777-1865), minia- tm'ist ; Rev. Jas. Craigie Robertson (b. 1813), ecclesi- astical historian; Jos. Robertson, LL.D. (1810-66), antic[uary ; Alex. Ross (1590-1654), voluminous writer of Hudibrastic fame; "Wm. Skinner, D.D. (1778-1857), Bishop of Aberdeen from 1816 ; Sir John Steell, R.S.A. (b. 1801), sculptor; "Wm. Thom (1799-1848), weaver- poet ; and Dav. "Wedderburn (c. 1570-1650), Latin poet. — Chief among many illustrious residents are Alexander Arbuthnott (1538-83), principal of King's College from 1569 ; the wit Jn. Arbuthnot (1667-1735), educated at jMarischal Col. ; Neil Arnott, M.D. (1788-1874), ed. at Grammar School and Marischal Col. ; "Wm. Barclay (1546-1605), the learned civilian, student ; Peter Bajme (b. 1830), journalist, M.A. of JMarischal Col. ; the 'Min- strel,' Jas. Beattie LL.D. (1735-1803), bursar of Mari- schal Col. 1749, master of Grammar School 1758, and professor of moral philosophy and logic at Marischal Col. 1760; Jn. Stuart Blackie (b. 1809), son of Aberdeen banker, there educated, and professor of Latin literatiu'e in Marischal Col. 1841-52 ; Hector Boece (1465-1536), historian, and first principal of King's Col. ; Rt. Brown, D.C.L. (1773-1858), botanist, educated at Marischal CoL ; its principal, "\Vm. La\^Tence Brown, D.D. (1755- 1830); Dav. Buchanan (1745-1812), publisher, M.A. of Aberdeen; Gilbert Burnet, D.D. (1643-1715), Bishop of Salisbury, student at Marischal Col. 1653-56 ; Jas. Burnet, Lord Monboddo (1714-99), student ib. ; Chas. Burney (1757-1817), scholar, M.A. of King's Col. ; Lord Byron (1788-1824), resident 1790-98 ; Andrew Cant, minister in Aberdeen in 1640 ; Donald Cargill (1610-81), Covenanting preacher, student at Aberdeen ; Fred. Carmichael (1708-51), divine, student of Marischal Col.; Jas. Cassie, R.S.A. (1819-79); Dav. Chalmers, Lord Ormond (1530-92), student ; Geo. Chalmers (1742- 1825), historian, student at King's Col. ; Geo. Chapman, LL.D. (1723-1806), bursar ib. ; Jas. Cheyne (d. 1602), head of Douay seminary, student ; And. Clark (b. 1826), M.D. of Aberdeen in 1854 ; Pat. Copland, LL.D. (1749- 1822), student and jirofcssor of natural philosophy and of matliematics at Marischal Col. ; the Baufl'sliire
ABERDEEN
naturalist, TIios. Edward (b. 1814); Rt. Mackenzie Daniel (1814-47), the 'Scottish Boz,' student at Mari- schal Col. ; Thos. Dempster (1579-1625), historian, stu- dent; Archibald Forbes (b. 1838), journalist, student; Jn. Forbes (1593-1648), divine, student at King's Col., and minister of St Nicholas ; Pat. Forbes (1564-1635), Bishop of Aberdeen from 1618 ; Wm. Forsyth (d. 1879), poet and journalist ; Sir Alexander Fraser (d. 1681), physician to Charles II. , studeut ; Simon Fraser, Lord Lovat (1667-1747), student at King's CoL ; Ah Gerard, D.D. (1728-95), educated at Grammar School, student at Marischal CoL, and professor there of nat. pliilos. 1762, of dixdnity 1760, minister of Greyfriars 1759, and prof, of theology at King's Col. 1771 ; Walter Goodal (1706- 66), antiquary, student at King's Col. ; Rt. Gordon (1580-1661), geographer and historian, student at Mari- schal Col. ; Sir Wm. Grant (1754-1822), solicitor-gene- ral and master of the rolls, student at King's Col. ; Gilbert Gray (d. 1614), second principal of Marischal Col., from 1598; Dav. Gregory (1627-1720), mechanician; his brother, James (1638-75), student at Marischal CoL, the famous astronomer ; Wm. Guthrie (1701-70), histori- cal and miscellaneous writer, student at King's CoL ; Et. HaU (1764-1831), dissenting divine, student ib. ; Rt. Hamilton, LL.D. (1743-1829), prof, at Marischal CoL of nat. phiL 1779, of math. 1780-1814 ; Jos. Hume (1777- 1855), medical student, and M. P. for Aberdeen 1818; Wm. Hunter (1777-1815), naturalist, student at Mari- schal CoL ; Arthur Johnston (1587-1641), Latin poet, student and rector of King's Col. ; Jn. Johnston (1570- 1612), Latin poet, student ih. ; Rev. Alex. Keith, D.D. (b. 1791), student at Marischal Col. ; Geo. Keith, fifth Earl Marischal (1553-1623), studeut of King's, and founder of Marischal Col. in 1593 ; Bishop Rt. Keith (1681-1757), student at Marischal Col. ; John Leslie, Bishop of Ross (1526-96), vicar-general of Aberdeen 1558 ; Jn. Leslie, Bishop of Raphoe (d. 1671), student ; David Low, Bishop of Ross (1768-1855), student and LL.D. of ^Marischal Col. ; Geo. Low (1746-95), naturalist, student; Geo. Macdonald (b. 1824), poet and novelist, student at King's Col. ; Wm. Macgillivray, LL.D. (d. 1852), prof. of nat. hist, in Marischal Col. from 1841 ; Sir Geo. Mackenzie (1636-92), legal antiquary, student; Ewen Maclachlan (1775-1822), Gaelic poet, bursar of King's CoL, and head-master of Grammar School 1819 ; Colin Maclaurin (1698-1746), math. prof, in Marischal Col. 1717-25 ; Jn. Maclean, Bishop of Saskatchewan (b. 1828), student ; Jas. Macpherson (1738-96), of Ossian celebrit}'-, student at King's Col. 1752 ; David Mallet (1700-65), poet, educated at Aberdeen ; Jas. Marr (1700- 61), IL A. of King's Col. 1721, master of Poor's Hospital 1742; Jas. Clerk Maxwell (1831-79), prof, of nat. philos. in Marischal CoL 1856-60 ; Wm. Meston (1688-1745), bmlesque poet, student at Marischal CoL, and teacher in Grammar School ; Jn. Pringle Nichol (1804-59), astronomer, student at King's Col. ; Alexander Nicoll (1793-1828), orientalist, educated at Grammar School and Marischal Col. ; Sir Jas. Outram (1805-63), Indian general, student at Marischal Col. ; Wm. Robinson Pirie, D.D. (b. 1804), divinity professor 1843, principal 1877 ; Jas. Ramsay (1733-89), philanthropist, bursar of King's CoL ; Thos. Reid (1710-96), metaphysician, stu- dent and librarian of Marischal CoL, prof, of philos. in King's CoL 1752-63; Sir Jn. Rose, Bart. (b. 1820), student at King's Col. ; Alex. Ross (1699-1784), poet, M.A. of Marischal Col. 1718 ; Thos. Ruddiman (1674- 1757), Latin grammarian, bursar of King's Col. 1690- 94; Helenus Scott, M.D. (d. 1821), student; Hy. Scougal (1650-78), prof, of philos. in King's Col. 1669- 73 ; Jas. Sharpe, Archbishop of St Andrews (1613-79), student at Marischal Col. ; Bailie Alex. Skene (flo. 1670), historian of Aberdeen ; Rev. Jn. Skinner (1721-1807), poet, bursar of Marischal Col. ; his son, Jn. Skinner (1743-1816), student at Marischal CoL, and Bishop of Aberdeen from 1784 ; Jn. Spalding (flo. 1624-45), commissary clerk and diarist; and John Stuart, LL.D. (1813-77), antiquary, student. It may be added that about 1715 Rob Roy was staying with his kinsman, Dr Jas. Gregory, prof, of medicine in King's Col. ; that
ABERDEEN
in 1773 Dr Samuel Johnson and Boswell put up ai the New Inn ; and that Burns came to ' Aberdeen, a lazy tow-n,' 7 Sept 1787.
The Synod of Aberdeen, generally meeting there, but sometimes at Banfl", comprises the presbyteries of Aber- deen, Kincardine O'Neil, Alford, Garioch, Ellon, Deer, Turriff; and Fordyce. Pop. (1871) 285,417, of whom, according to a parliamentary return (1st May 1879) 73,852 were communicants of the Church of Scotland in 1878. The sums raised by its 143 congregations on behalf of Christian liberality amounted to £28,836 in 1880, when there were 210 Sabbath schools within it, with 19,956 scholars. The presbytery of Aberdeen com- prises 34 congregations, viz., the 14 Aberdeen churches, and Ruthrieston, Old Machar, University, Woodside, Banchory-Devenick, Craigiebuckler, Belhelvie, Drum- oak, Durris, Dyce, Fintray, Kinnellar, Jlaryculter, New- hills, New Machar, Nigg, Peterculter, Portletheu, Skene, and Stoneywood. Pop. (1871) 111,807, the communicants numbering 22,687 in 1878, and the sums raised for Christian liberality amounting to £13,836 in 1880. — The Free Church synod, whose presbyteries are identical with those of the Established synod, in 1880 had 107 churches, \vith 28,734 communicants ; its presbytery included 37 congregations with 14,378 com- municants— the 21 Aberdeen churches, and Bancliory- Devenick, Belhelvie, Blackburn, Cults, Drumoak, Dur- ris, Dyce, Kingswell, Maryculter, Newhills, Old Machar, Peterculter, Skene, Torry, Woodside, and Bourtreebush. — Tlie U.P. presbytery of Aberdeen in 1880 had 3283 members and 16 congregations — the 6 Aberdeen churches, and Banchory, Craigdam, Ellon, Lumsden, Lynturk, Midmar, Old ]\Ieldrum, Shiels, Stonehaven, and AVood- side. — Since 1577 there have been 17 Protestant bishops of Aberdeen, to which the revived diocese of Orkney was added in 1864. In 1880 the congregations of the 37 churches within the united diocese numbered 10,759, the communicants 5316, and the children attending Episcopal schools 2388. — After having been vacant for 301 years, the Catholic see of Aberdeen was re-established in 1878 ; and in its diocese in 1880 there were 49 priests, 33 missions, 53 churches, chapels, and stations, 2 col leges, 7 convents, and 20 congregational schools.
See, besides works cited under Aberdeenshike, Bailie Alex. Skene's Succinct Survey of the famous City of Aberdeen (1685), W. Thom's History of Aberdeen (2 vols., 1811), Wm. Kennedy's Annals of Aberdeen (2 vols., 1818), Joseph Robertson's Book of Bon- Accord (1839), James Bruce's Lives of Eminent Men of Aber- deen (1841), vol. i. of Billings' Baronial and Ecclesias- tical Antiquities (1845), Cosmo Innes' Sketches of Early Scottish History (1861), Aberdeen Fifty Years Ago (1868), Slezer's Theatrum Scotia (1693 ; new ed. 1874), an excellent series of articles in the Builder (1865-66, 1877) ; and, published by the Spalding Club, the Rev. Jas. Gordon's Description of Bathe Touns of Aber- deen, 1661, ed. by Cosmo Innes (1842), Extracts from the Council Register of the Burgh of Aberdeen, 1398- 1625, ed. by Jn. Stuart (2 vols., 1844-49), his edition of Spalding's Memorialls of the Trubles in Scotland and England, 1624-45 (2 vols., 1850-51), his Selections from, the Records of the Kirk-Session, Presbytery, and Synod of Aberdeen, 1562-1681 (1846), and C. Innes' Registrum Episcopatus Aberdonensis (2 vols., 1845), and Selections from the Records of the University and King's College, Aberdeen, 1494-1854 (1854). Besides the Ordnance 6- inch and -^l-^ maps, there are the Ordnance 1-inch map, sh. 77 (1873), Keith and Gibb's If-inch Map of the Environs (Ab. 1878), and Gibb & Hay's 9-inch Map of the City (Ab. 1880).
Aberdeen and Banff Railway, a section of the Great North of Scotland railway, starts from the main line at Inveramsay, 20+ miles N W of Aberdeen. The south- ern part of it to Turritf (18 miles) was authorised on 15 June 1855, under the title of the Banff", Macduff, and Turriff Junction; was then designed to be prolonged northward to Banff and Macduff; was opened to Turritf, on 5 Sept. 1857; and took the name of the Aberdeen and Turriir Railway on 19 April 1859. The part from
19
ABERDEENSHIRE
ABERDEENSHIRE
Turriff to Banff (Hi miles), autliorised on 27 July 1857, imder the name of the Banff, Macduff, and Turriff Extension, was opened on 4 June 1S60, and was ex- tended from Banff to Macduff (^ mile) in 1872. The entire system has a total length of 29f- miles, with 10 stations and summit levels of 405 and 374 feet; was in- corporated with the Great North of Scotland on 30 Jul}- 1866 ; and is brought into a circle \\ith it by the Banffshire Railwaj-, extending south-westward from Banff harbour to Grange Junction.
Aberdeen Railway, a railway from Aberdeen, south- south-westward to the centre of Forfarshire. It was authorised on 31 July 1845, and opened on 30 March 1850. It cost very much more per mile than had been estimated, yet a good deal less than either the Scottish Central, the Edinburgh, Perth, k, Dundee, the North British, or the Caledonian. It commences at Guild Street, adjacent to the upper dock and to the foot of Market Street ; crosses the Dee at Polmuii-, by the viaduct noticed on p. 12 ; proceeds by the stations of Cove, Portlethen, Newtonhill, and Muchalls, to Stone- haven ; goes thence through the fertile district of the Mearns, by the stations of Drumlithie, Fordoun, Lau- rencekirk, Marykirk, and Craigo, to the northern border of Forfarshire ; sends off at Dubton Jmiction a branch 3 miles and 160 yards eastward to Montrose ; sends off again at Bridge-of-Dun Junction a branch of 3 miles and 862 yards westward to Brechin ; proceeds by the station of Farnell Road to Guthrie Junction, and makes also a junction with the Arbroath and Forfar railway at Frioek- heim. That railway, previously formed, was leased to it in 1848, and ultimately incorporated with it. The Aberdeen itself and the Scottish Midland Junction were amalga- mated in 1856, under the name of the Scottish North- Eastern ; and the Scottish North-Eastern, in turn, was amalgamated with the Caledonian, in 1866 ; so that the Aberdeen is now the northern part of the Caledonian system. The length of the Aberdeen proper, exclusive of branches, is 49 miles, and inclusive of branches and of the Arbroath and Forfar, is 72 miles.
Aberdeenshire, a maritime county, forming the ex- treme NE of Scotland, lies between 56^ 52' and 57° 42' N lat., and between 1° 48' and 3° 46' W long. It is bounded N and E by the German Ocean, S by the counties of Kincardine, Forfar, and Perth, and W by those of Inverness and Banff. Its outline is very irre- gular ; but roughly describes an oblong extending from NE to SW, broadest near the middle and narrowing towards the SW. The greatest length, from Cau-nbulg Head, on the E side of Fraserburgh Bay, to Cau'n Ealer, at the meeting-point with Perth and Inverness shires, is 85| miles ; the^greatest breadth, from the mouth of the river Dee to the head-springs of the river Don, is 47 miles ; and the circuit line measures some 280 miles, 62 of which are sea-coast. Fifth in size of the Scottish counties, Aberdeenshire has an area of 1970 square miles or 1,260,625 acres. It was anciently divided into Buchan in the N, Formartine, Strathbogie, and Garioch in the middle, and JIar in the SW ; it is now divided into the districts of Deer, Turriff, Huntly, Garioch, Alford, Ellon, Aberdeen, and Kincardine O'Neil.
The surface, in a general view, consists largely of tame levels or uninteresting tumulations, but includes the long splendid valleys of the Don and Dee, and ascends to the grand Grampian knot of the Cairngorm ]\Ioun- tains. 'fhe coast is mostly bold and rugged, occasion- ally rising into precipices, 100 to 150 feet high, and pierced with extensive caverns, but in the southern part, adjacent to Aberdeen, sinks into broad sandy flats. About two-thirds of tlie entire smface are either moss, moor, hill, or mountain. Much of the scenery is bleak and cheerless, but around some of the larger towns, and along the courses of the principal rivers, it abounds with features of beauty or grandeur. In the SW the Cairngorm and the Grampian lilountains combine, ^vith corrics, glens, and valleys among or near them, to form magnificent landscapes ; throughout the shire, from N to S, and crosswise from W to E, the following are the chief summits, those marked with asterisks culminating 20
on the boundary: — Hill of Fislirie (749 feet), Morniond Hill (769), Hill of Shenwall (957), *Meikle Balloch (1199), Clashmach Hill (1229), Corsegight (619), Dud- wick (572), Top of Noth (1851), Hill of Foudland (1509), Core Hill (804), Buck of Cabracli (2368), *Carn Mor (2636), Correen Hills (1699), Caillievar (1747), Ben- nachie (1698), HiU of Fare (1545), Brimmond Hill (870), Brown Cow Hill (2721), Morven Hill (2862), *Beu Avon (3843), *Braeriach (4248), Cairntoul (4241), Ben Macdhui (4296), Beinn Bhrotain (3795), *An Sgar- soch (3300), *Beinn a' Chaoruinn (3553), *Beinn a' Bhuird (3924), Carn Eas (3556), *Beinn lutharn Mhor (3424), *Cairn na Glasha (3484), Lochnagar (3786), Mount Keen (3077), and Cock Cairn (2387). The princi- pal I'ivers are the Deveron, rising in the north-west and soon passing into Banffshire ; the Bogie, running to the Deveron, about ^ mile below Huntly ; the Ugie, run- ning south-eastward to the sea, about a mile N of Peterhead ; the Cruden, running eastward to the sea at Cruden Bay ; the Ythan, running 33| miles north-east- ward and south-eastward to the sea, a little below New- burgh ; the Urie, going south-eastward to the Don, at Inverurie; the Don, rising at an altitude of 1980 feet, adjacent to the county's western boundary, and making a sinuous run eastward of about 82i miles, all within the county, to the sea in the vicinity of Old Aberdeen ; and the Dee, rising on Cairntoul, at 4060 feet above sea- level, and making a sinuous run of about 87 miles, partly through Braemar, partly through the Aberdeen portions of Deeside, and partly along the boundary with Kincardineshire to the sea at Abei'deen. The chief lakes are Lochs Dhu, Muick, Callater, Brothacan, Kin- Ord, Drum, and Strathbeg, but are all small. Granite is the prevailing rock ; occurs of various kinds or qualities ; forms the great mass of the mountains together with ex- tensive tracts eastward to the sea ; has, for about 300 years, been extensively worked ; and in recent times, up to 1881, has been in rapidly increasing demand as an article of export. The quantities shipped at Aberdeen alone are remarkably great. The quarries of it at Kemnay employ about 250 workmen, with the aid of steam power, all the year round, and since 1858, have raised Kemnay from the status of a rural hamlet to that of a small town. Other notable quarries are those of Rubislaw, Sclattie, Dancing Cairn, Persley, Cairngall, and Stirling-Hill, near Peterhead. The Kemnay granite has a light colour and a close texture, and owes to these properties its high acceptance in the market. The Rubislaw granite is of a fine dark-blue colour, and was the material used in the construction of great part of Union Street in Aberdeen. The Cairngall granite is small grained, of fine texture, and admirably suited for polishing and for ornamental work ; it furnished the sarcophagus for the remains of the late Prince Consort. The Stirling-Hill or Peterhead granite is of a red colour, and of much larger grain than the other granites ; it is much used for mural tablets, monumental stones, and ornate pillar shafts. The granites are sometimes associated with gneiss, witn Silurian I'ocks, or with greenstone, basalt, or other traps ; and, viewed in connection with these, they form fully eight-ninths of the substrata of the entire county. Devonian rocks occur in the north, underlie the wide level moors and mosses of Buchan, and have yielded millstones in the parish of Aberdour. Blue slate, two beds of limestone, and a large vein of ironstone occur in Culsalmond parish, forming parts of strata which have been nmch tilted and deranged ; and both the slate and the limestone have been worked. Limestone abounds also in other localities ; but, owing to the scarcity of coal, except near a seaport, it cannot be advantageously worked. Beautiful green serpentine, with white and grey spots, occurs in Leslie parish, and is easily wrought into snuff-boxes and ornamental objects. Plumbago and indications of metallic ores have been found in Huntly parish. Gold, in small quantities, has been found in Braemar, and on parts of the coast near Aberdeen. Amethy.sts, beryls, emeralds, and other precious stones, particularly the species of rock crystal called cairngorms, are found in the moun-
ABERDEENSHIRE
tains of Braemar. Agates, of a fine polisli and beautiful variety, have been got on the shore near Peterhead. Asbestos, talc, syenite, and mica also have been found. Mineral springs of celebrated character are at Peterhead and Pannanich.
The surface of the mountains for the most part is either bare rock or such thin poor soil as admits of little or no profitable improvement even for the purposes of hill pasture ; that of the moorlands and the mosses comprises many tracts which might be thoroughly reclaimed, and not a few which have, in recent times, been greatly improved ; and that of the lowland dis- tricts has a very various soil, — most of it naturally poor or churlish, a great deal now transmuted by judi- cious cultivation into fine fertile mould, and some naturally good dilu\'ium or rich alluviuxa, now in very productive arable condition. Spongy humus and coarse stiff clays are common in the higher districts ; and light sands and finer clays prevail in the valleys and on the seaboard. So great an area as nearly 200,000 acres in Braemar and Crathie is incapable of tillage. Only about 5000 acres in Strathdon parish, containing 47,737 acres, are arable. Nearly 16,000 acres, in a tract of about 40,000 acres between the Dee and the Don, midway between the sources and the mouths of these rivers, are under the plough. The principal arable lands lie between the Don and the Ythan, in Formartine and Garioch, in Strathbogie, and between the Ugie and the sea. Much improvement arose early from the im- pulse given by the Highland and Agricultural Society of Scotland ; and has been vigorously carried forward under impulse of the Garioch Farmer Club (instituted 1808), the Buchan Agricultural Society (1829), the For- martine Agricultural Association (1829), the Vale of Alford Agricultural Association (1831), the Ythanside Farmer Club (1841), the Royal Northern Agi-icultural Society (1843), the Mar Agi-icultural Association, the Inverurie Agi'icultural Association, and many of the greater landed proprietors, and of the most enterprising of the farmers. The recent improvements have com- prised, not only extensive reclamation of waste lands, but also more economical methods of cropping, better tillage, better implements, better manuring, better farm- yard management, better outhouse treatment of live- stock, and extensive sub-soil draining ; and they have resulted in such vast increase of produce from both arable lands and pastures as has changed the county from a condition of constant loss in the balance of agi-i- cultural imports and exports, to a condition of constant considerable gain.
According to Miscellaneous Statistics of the United Kingdom (1879), 1,255,138 acres, with total gi'oss esti- mated rental of £1,118,849, were divided among 7472 landowners; one holding 139,829 acres (rental, £17,740), four together 300,827 (£86,296), five 120,882 (£35,959), fourteen 186,302 (£113,927), twenty - five 179,083 (£123,251), forty-six 158,214 (£131,751), sixty 87,466 (£109,805), fifty-eight 42,037 (£45,992), one hundred and twenty-six 30,441 (£69,691), thirty-eight 2658 (£18,880), one hundred and eighty-two 3822 (£37,745), four hundred and twenty-one 1333 (£50,662), and 6492 holding 2274 acres (£277,150).
Tenantry-at-'n'ill is now almost entirely unknown. Tenant-tenure is usually by lease for from 15 to 19 years. The tenant, in the management of his land, was formerly restricted to a 5 years' and a 7 years' course of rotation, but is now generally allowed the option also of a 6 years' course ; and he is usually allowed 3 years, after entering on his farm, to determine which of the courses he shall adopt. The 7 years' course com- monly gives 1 year to turnips, the next year to barley or oats with grass seeds, the next 3 years to grass fallow or pasture, and the last 2 years to successive crops of oats. That course and the 5 years' one are still the most com- monly practised ; but the 6 years' course has come into extensive and increasing favour, and is generally re- garded as both the most suitable, to the nature of tlie prevailing soil, and the most consonant with the principles of correct husbandry. Arable farms generally rent from
ABERDEENSHIRE
15s. to 30s. per acre ; but some near Aberdeen, Peterhead, and Inverurie, rent much higher.
The acres under corn crops were 206,577 in 1866, 214,676 in 1873, and 212,767 in 1880 ; imder green crops —102,744 in 1866, 106,003 in 1874, and 104,203 in 1880. Of the total 603,226 acres under crops and grass in 1880, 16,564 were oats, 114 wheat, 92,972 turnips, 259,645 clover, sanfoin, and grasses under rotation, 25,861 per- manent pasture, etc. The number of cattle was 133,451 in 1866, 169,625 in 1875, and 152,106 in 1880. Tha cattle are of various breeds, and have on the whole been highly improved. The small Highland breed was formerly in much request, but has latterly dAvindled to comparative insignificance. A few Ayrshire cows have been imported for dairy purposes ; but no Ayrshires, and scarcely any Galloways, are bred in the county. One Hereford herd here is the only one in Scotland. The polled Angus or Aberdeen breed has had gi-eat attention from Mr M'Combie of Tillyfour ; has won him 8 splen- did cups, 20 gold medals, 50 silver medals, 7 bronze medals, and upwards of £2500 in money ; and has pro- duced some animals of such high qualities as to bring each from 100 to 200 guineas. The same breed was largely kept by Colonel Fraser of Castle Fraser (d. 1871), who won a prize for it in 1868 over Mr M'Combie, besides a remarkable number of other prizes. Other gi'eat breeders of it have been the late Mr Rt. "Walker of Portlethen, Mr Geo. Brown of Westertown, Jlr Jas. Skinner of Drumin, and INIr Al. Paterson of Midben, who have found successors in Mr A. Bo-s^-ie of I\Iains of Kelly, Sir Geo. Macpherson Grant of BaUindalloch, Mr Jas. Scott of Easter Tulloch, Mr Wm. Skinner of Drumin, etc. {Trans. Highl. and Ag. Sac., 1877, p. 299). The shorthorned breed is raised more numerously in Aberdeenshire than in any other Scottish county ; was introduced about 1830, but did not obtain much atten- tion till after 1850 ; comprises nine celebrated herds (the Sittyton, Kinellar, Kinaldie, Cairnbrogie, etc.), be- sides many smaller ones ; and has sent off to the market, annually for several years, nearly 400 bidl calves and about half as many young heifers. The number of sheep was 112,684 in 1856, 158,220 in 1869, 144,882 in 1873, 157,105 in 1874 and 137,693 in 1880. The breeding of sheep is carried on most extensively in the upland districts ; and the feeding of them, in the middle and lower districts. The upland flocks move to the lowlands of Aberdeenshire and the adjoining counties about November, and do not return till April Black- faced wethers, 2, 3, and even 4 years old, are, on some farms on the lower districts, fed A^ith grass in summer, and with turnips and straw in winter. Blackfaced sheep constitute more than one-half of all the sheep in the uplands ; and also are extensively bred in the inland districts of Braemar, Strathdon, Glen- bucket, Corgarff", Cromar, Cabrach, and RhjTiie, but not in the lower districts. Cross-breeds are not so num- erous as the blackfaced, yet form extensive flocks, and are fed for the slaughter-market. Leicesters have, for a number of years, been extensively bred, and they form fine flocks at Pitmedden, Fornot-Skene, Gowner, Old Meldrum, Stricken Mains, and some other places. There are no pure Cheviots, and few Southdowns. The num- ber of horses was 22,274 in 1855, 24,458 in 1869, 23,202 in 1873, and 26,851 in 1880, of which 6506 were kept solely for breeding. They are partly Clydesdales, Lincolns, and crosses ; and though not very heavy,. may, for the most part, stand comparison with the average of horses throughout the best part of Scotland. The number of pigs was 14,763 in 1866, 7773 in 1869, 10,565 in 1874, and 7240 in 1880. The accommodation for farm servants is better than it was, but still not so good as could be desired. The farm-house kitchens are still the abodes of the majority of the servants ; and homes for the families of the married men cannot, in many in- stances, be found nearer than 8, 10, and even 20 miles. Handsome cottages for servants have been built by the Duke of Richmond on several of his larger farms in the Strathbogie districts ; and these, it is hoped, may serve as models for similar buildings on other estates.
21
ABERDEENSHIRE
ABERDEENSHIRE
Farm servants' wages are about double ■what they were 40 years before. Feeing markets, believed to have an injurious effect on the morals of the agricultural labourers, are being superseded by a well-organised system of local registration offices.
In 1879 orchards covered 29 acres, market gardens 439, nursery grounds 182 ; and in 1S72 there M^ere 93,339 acres of woods within the shire. About 175,000 acres are disposed in deer forests. A great deal of land in the upper part of the Dee Valley, pre- viously under the plough, or used as sheep pasture, was converted, during the 40 years ending in 1881, into deer forest. Large portions of Braemar, Glentanuer, and Mort- lach are still covered with natural wood. ' The mountains there seem to be divided by a dark sea of firs, whose uniformity of hue and appearance affords inexpressible solemnity to the scene, and carries back the mind to those primeval ages, when the axe had not invaded the boundless region of the forest. ' The Scotch pine is very generally distributed, and flourishes up to 1500 feet above sea-level, as also does the larch. Birch, alder, j)op- lar, and other trees likewise abound {Trans. Highl. and Ag. Soc, 1874, pp. 264-303). Grouse, black game, the hedgehog, the otter, the badger, the stoat, the polecat, and the wild-cat are indigenous. Salmon used to be veryplenti- ful in the Dee and the Don, but, of late j'ears, have greatly decreased. About 20,000 salmon and 40,000 grilses, in- clusive of those taken by stake nets, and at the beach adjacent to the river's mouth, are still in an average season captured in the Dee. The yellow trout of the Dee are both few and small. A small variety of salmon is got in Loch Callater, and excellent red trout in Loch Brothacan. So many as 3000 salmon and grilses were caught in a single week of July 1849 at the mouth of the river Don. Salmon, sea-trout, yellow trout, and a few pike are got in the Don. Pearls are found in the Ythan ; and the large pearl in the crown of Scotland is believed to have been found at the influx of Kelly Water to the Ythan. Salmon, sea-trout, and finnocks, in consider- able nnmbers, ascend the Ythan. Salmon ascend also the Ugie ; finnocks abound near that river's mouth ; and burn- trout are plentiful in its upper reaches and affluents. Tench, carp, and Loch Leven trout are in an artificial lake of about 50 acres at Pitfour. Red trout, yellow trout, and some perch are in Loch Strathbeg. Herrings, cod, ling, hake, whiting, haddock, hallibut, turbot, sole, and skate abound in the sea along the coast; and are caught in great quantities by fishermen at and near the stations of Aberdeen, Peterhead, and Fraserburgh.
The manufactures of Aberdeenshire figure principally in Aberdeen and its immediate neighbourhood, but are shared by some other towns and by numerous villages. The woollen trade, in the various departments of tweeds, carpets, Avinceys, and shawls, has either risen, or is rising to great prominence ; but is seated principally in Aberdeen and its near vicinity, and has been noticed in our article on Aberdeen. The linen trade, as to both yarn and cloth, has figured largely in the county since about 1745 ; and is seated chiefly at Aberdeen, Peterhead, and Huntly. The cotton trade employed 1448 hands in 1841, but has declined. Paper-making is carried on more extensively in Aberdeenshire than in any other Scottish county ex- cepting that of Edinburgh. One firm alone has a very large mill for writing-paper at Stoneysvood, another mill for envelopes at what is called the Union Paper-works, a third mill for coarse papers at Woodside ; emjdoy upwards of 2000 persons ; and turn out between 60 and 70 tons of paper, cards, and cardboard, and about 6,000,000 en- velopes every week. Rope-making, comb-making, boot and shoe making, iron-founding, machine-making, ship- building, and various other crafts, likewise employ very many hands. The leather trade proper makes little figure within the county, but elsewhere is largely upheld by constant supplies of hides to the Aberdeen market. The number of cattle killed for ex[)ort of dead meat from Aberdeen is so great, that the hides sold annually there, taking the year 1867 for an average, amount to no fewer than 41,600. The commerce of the county is given under its two head ports, Abeudeex and Peteu- 22
HEAD. The tolls were abolished at "Whitsunday 1866 ; the roads have since been managed by 8 trusts, in 1881 being kept in repair by means of an assessment of 6d. per pound. The railways are the Caledonian and the Great North of Scotland ; and, with the sections of the latter, the Aberdeen and Banff, the Liverurie and Old ileldrum, the Alford Valley, the Formartine and Buchan, and the Deeside, they are separately noticed.
The royal burghs are Aberdeen, Inverurie, and Kin- tore ; a principal town and parliamentary burgh is Peter- head ; and other townis and principal \-illages are — Huntly, Fraserburgh, Turrifl; Old j)ileldrum. Old Deer, Tarland, Stewartfield, St Combs, Boddam, Rosehearty, Inveral- lochy, Cairnbulg, Ellon, Newburgh, Colliston, New Pit- sligo, Banchory, Aboj'ue, Ballater, Castleton of Brae- mar, Cuminestown, Newbyth, Fj^vie, Insch, Rh}'nie, Lumsden, Alford, Kemnay, Auchmill, Bankhead, Burn- haven, Buchanhaven, Broadsea, Woodside, Garmond, Gordon Place, Longside, Mintlaw, Aberdour, Xew Deer, Strichen, and Woodend. The chief seats are — Balmoral Castle, Abergeldie Castle, Huntly Lodge, Aboyne Castle, Slains Castle, Keith Hall, Mar Lodge, Skene House, Dalgety Castle, Dunecht House, Haddo House, Philorth Castle, Castle-Forbes, Logie-Elphiustone, Westhall, Cri- monmogate, Kewe, Edinglassie, Fintray House, Craigie- var Castle, Monymusk, Hatton House, Pitmedden House, Finzean, Invercauld, Ballogie, Castle Eraser, Coimtess- wells, Clunie, Leamey, Drum, Grandholm, Haughton, Ward House, White Haugh, Leith Hall, ]\Iount-Stuart, Rothie, Fyv'ie House, Rajme, Manar, Freefield, Warthill, Pitcaple, IMeldi'um, Auchnacoy, Ellon House, Brucklay Castle, Tillyfour, and Pitlurg.
The comity is governed (1881) by a lord-lieutenant, a vice-lieutenant, 58 deputy-lieutenants, a sheriff, 2 sheriffs-substitute, 3 honorary sherifls-substitute, and 334 magistrates ; and is divided, for administration, into the districts of Braemar, Deeside, Aberdeen, Alford, Huntly, Turriff, Garioch, Ellon, Deer, and New Machar. Besides the courts held at Aberdeen, a sheriff court is held at Peterhead on every Fridaj", and sheriff small debt circuit courts are held at Abojme, Inverurie, Huntly, Turrilf, and Fraserburgh, once every 3 months. The prisons are the East Prison of Aberdeen, and the police cells of Peterhead, Huntly, and Fraserburgh, all three legalised in 1874 for periods not exceeding 3 days. The criminals, in the annual average of 1841-45, were 93 ; of 1846-50, 117 ; of 1851-55, 104 ; of 1856-60, 89 ; of 1861-65, 87 ; of 1864-68, 73 ; of 1869-73, 60 ; of 1875-79, 52. The police force in 1880, exclusive of that for Aber- deen burgh, comprised 70 men ; and the salary of the chief constable was £350. The number of persons in 1879, ex- clusive of those in Aberdeen burgh, tried at the instance of the police, was 1450 ; the number of these convicted, 1395; the number committed for trial, 16 ; the number charged but not dealt vdth, 283. The annual value of real property in 1815 was £325,218 ; in 1843, £605,802 ; in ISSl, £919,203, including £52,387 for railways, etc. The county, exclusive of the burghs, sent 1 member to parliament prior to the Reform Act of 1867 ; but by that Act, it Avas constituted into 2 divisions, eastern and western, each sending 1 member. The constituency in 1881, of the eastern division, was 4721 ; of the western division, 4139. The population in 1801 was 121,065 ; in 1811, 133,871 ; in 1821, 155,049 ; in 1831, 177,657 ; in 1841, 192,387 ; in 1851, 212,032 ; in 1861, 223,344 ; in 1871, 244,603; in 1881, 267,963, of whom 139,985 were women.
The registration county gives off parts of Banchory- Devenick and Banchory-Teruan parishes to Kincardine- shire, takes in part of Drumoak from Kincardineshire, and parts of Cairney, Gartly, Glass, New ilachar, and Old Deer from Bantt'shire ; comprises 82 entire parishes ; and had in 1861 a population of 223,344, in 1881 of 269,014. Five of the parishes in 1880 were unassessed for the poor ; two, Aberdeen-St Nicholas and Old Machar, had each a poorhouse and a poor law administration for itself; and 10 forming Buchan combination, had a poor- house dating from 1869. The number of registered poor in the year ending 14 May 1880, was 5616 ; of dependants
ABERDONA
on these, 3494 ; of unregistered or casual poor, 1474 ; of dependants on these, 1431. The receipts for the poor in that j^ear were £61,882, 14s. 2d. ; and the expenditure Avas £60,618, 8s. l^d. The number of pauper lunatics was 704 ; and the expenditure on their account, £13,144, 4s. lid. The percentage of illegitimate births was 14 '5 in 1876, 13-3 in 1877, and 137 in 1879. The climate is far from imhealthy, and, while varying much in different parts, is on the whole mild. The temperature of the mountainous parts, indeed, is about the lowest in Scot- land ; and the rainfall in the aggregate of the entire area is rather above the mean. The winters are not so cold as in the southern counties, and the summers are not so warm or long. The mean temperature, noted from 13 years' observation, is 46 "7 at Aberdeen, and 43 "6 at Braemar, 1114 feet above sea-leveL
Keligious statistics have been already given under Aber- deen, p. 19 ; in 1879 the county had 236 pirblic schools (accommodation, 35,848), 70 non-public but State-aided schools (10,046), 51 other efficient elementary schools (4151), 1 higher-class public school (600), and 44 higher- class non-public schools (3532) — in all, 402 schools, with accommodation for 54,177 childi'en.
The territory now forming Aberdeenshire was anciently inhabited by the Caledonian Taexali. Many cairns and other antiquities, commonly assigned to the Caledonian times, are in the upland districts. A so-called Pict's house is at Abojme ; vitrified forts are at Insch and RhjTiie ; and a notable standing-stone, the Maiden Stone, is in Chapel-of-Garioch. Old castles are at Abergeldie, Boddam, Corgarff, Coul, Dundargue, Dunideer, Fedderate, Lesmore, Slains, and other places. Chief septs, in times down almost to the present day, have been the Farqu- harsons, the Forbeses, and the Gordons. Principal events were the defeat of Comjm by Bruce, at the ' herschip of Buchan,' near Barrahill ; the defeat of Donald of the Isles by the Earl of Mar, in 1411, at Har- law ; the lesser conflicts of Corrichie, AKord, and the Craibstone ; and other incidents noticed under Aber- deen. See Jos. Robertson's Collections for a History of tlie Shires of Aberdeen and Banff (5 vols. , Spalding Club, 1847-69), and Al. Wraith.' s New History of Aberdeenshire (2 vols., 1875).
Aberdona, an estate, with a mansion, in Clackmannan parish, 5 mUes FIN'S of Alloa.
Aberdour (Gael, abhir-dur, 'confluence of the stream'), a village and a parish of SW Fife. The village lies just to the W of Whitesands Bay, a curve of the Firth of Forth (here 4f miles A^•ide), and is 3 miles W by S of Burntisland station, and 7h NW of Leith, with which in summer it holds steamboat communi- cation from 3 to 6 times a day. Sheltered on the E b}^ Hawkcraig cliff (270 feet), northward by Hillside and the Cullalo Hills, it nestles among finely wooded glades ; commands a wide prospect of the Firth's southern shores, of Edinburgh, and of the Pentland range beyond ; and by its good sea-bathing and mild climate draws many visitors, for whose further accommodation a terrace of superior \Tllas was built (1880-81) along the Shore Road, on sites belonging to the Earl of Morton. The village proper, standing at the mouth of the Dour Burn, consists of 3 parts, regarded sometimes as distinct vil- lages— Old Town to the NE, Aberdour in the middle, and Xew To-wn to the SW. It has a good tidal har- bour with a picturesque old pier ; was supplied with water in 1879 at a cost of £2000 ; contains the parish church (erected in 1790 ; and seating 579), the Free church, 2 inns, 3 insurance offices, a post office under Burntisland, with money order, savings' bank, and telegraph departments, and a hospital for 4 widows, founded by Anne, countess of the second Earl of Moray. Here, too, were formerly St IMartha's nunnery of St •Claire (1474) and the hospital of SS. Mary and Peter (1487), and here, concealed by brushwood, still stand the ruins of St Fillan's Church (c. 1178), mixed Norman and Second Pointed in style, with a S aisle, a porch, and the grave of the Rev. Robert Blair (1583-1666), Charles I.'s chaplain, who, banished from St Andrews by Arch- bishop Sharp, died in this parish at Meikle Couston.
ABERDOUR
Steps lead from the churchyard to the broad southern terrace of Aberdour Castle, a ruinous mansion of the Earls of Morton and Barons Aberdour (1458), held by their ancestors since 1351, earlier by Yiponts and by Mortimers. Its oldest portion, a massive keep tower, is chiefly of rough rubljle work, with dressed quoins and windows ; additions, bearing date 1632, and highly finished, mark the transition from Gothic forms to the unbroken lines of Italian composition that took place during the 17th century. Accidentally burned 150 years since, this splendid and extensive pile has formed a quarry to the entire neighbourhood (Billings, i. , plate 12). An oyster-bed in Whitesands Bay emploj-s, with whelk- picking and fishing, a few of the villagers ; but the former industries of spade -making, ticking- weaving, and wood-sawing are quite extinct.
The parish, formed in 1640 by disjunction from Beath and Dalgety, contains also the village of Donibristle Col- liery, and includes the island of Ixchcolm, lying 1^ mile to the S, and Kilrie Yetts, a detached portion of 132f acres, Ih mile to the E. Its main body is bounded N by Beath, NE by Auchtertool, E by Kinghorn and Burntisland, S by the Firth of Forth, and W by Dalgety and Dunfermline. Its length from NW to SE is 4| miles, its breadth varies between 1 J and 3;^ miles ; and the total area is 6059| acres, of which 85 are foreshore. The coast is nearly 2 miles long, but probably comprises t^vice that extent of shore line. The western part of it rises gently inland, and is feathered and fiecked'n-ith plantations- the eastern is steep and rugged, AAith shaggv woods descending to the water's edge. From NE to S^V the Cullalo Hills, 400 to 600 feet in height, intersect the parish ; and the tract to the S to them is warm and genial, exhibiting a wealth of natural and artificial beauty, but that to the N lies high, and, %A-ith a cold sour soil, presents a bleak, forbidding aspect. Near the western border, from S to N, three summits rise to 499, 513, and 500 feet ; on the south- eastern are two 574 and 540 feet high ; and Moss Mor- ran in the N, which is traversed by the Dunfermline branch of the North British railway, has elevations of 472 and 473 feet. About 1200 acres are either hill pasture or waste ; some 1800 are occupied by woods, whose monarchs are 3 sycamores, 78, 74, and 78 feet high, with girths at 1 foot from the ground of 16 J, 20|, and 13^ feet. The rocks are in some parts eruptive, in others carboniferous ; and one colliers, the Doni- bristle, was at work in 1879, while fossiliferous lime- stone and sandstone are also extensivel}' quarried. Man- sions are Hillside, "S^iitehill, and Cuttlehill ; and the chief landowners are the Earls of Morton and Moray, each holding an annual value of over £2000. Five others hold each £500 and upwards, 5 from £100 to £500, 4 from £50 to £100, and 19 from £25 to £50. At Hill- side ' Christopher North,' the Ettrick Shepherd, and others of the celebrated Noctes, met often round the board of Mr Stuart of Dunearn ; at Humble Farm Carljde wi'ote part of Frederick the Great. But {imce Sir Walter Scott) Aberdour's best title to fame rests on the gi-and old ballad of Sir Patrick Spens. A baron, it may be, of Wormieston in Crail, that skeely skipper conveyed in 1281 the Princess ]\Iargaret from Dimfermline to Nor- way, there to be wedded to King Eric ; of his homeward voyage the ballad tells us how —
' Half owTe, half owre to Aberdour
It's fifty fathoms deep, And there lies good Sir Patrick Spens,
Wi' the Scots lords at his feet.'
This parish is now in the presbytery of Dunfermline and synod of Fife ; anciently it belonged to Inchcolm Abbey, its western half having been granted by Alan de Mortimer, for leave of burial in the abbey church. The bargain was broken, for 'carrying his corpse in a coffin of lead by barge in the night-time, some Mickcd monks did throw the same in a gi'eat deep betwixt the land and the monastery, which to this day, by neigh- bouring fishermen and salters, is called Mortimer's Dee}).' The minister's income is £435. There are 2 board- schools, at Aberdour and Donibristle, with respective ac-
23
ABERDOUR
ABERFELDY
commodation for 184 and ISO scholars, the latter having been rebuilt in ISSO at a cost of £1500. These had (1S79) an average attendance of 118 and 120, and grants of £83, Is. and £80, 63. 4d. Yaluation (1881) £12,500, 3s. lOd. Pop. (1801) 1260, (1S31) 1751, (1851) 1945, (1871) 1697, (ISSl) 1736. See M. White's Beauties and Antiquities of Ahcrdour (Edinb. 1869), and Ballin- gall's Shores of Fife (Edinb. 1872).— O/'c?. Sur., sh. 40, 1867.
Aberdour, a village and a coast parish of N Aber- deenshire. The village, called conanionly New Aber- dour, having been founded in 1798 in lieu of an old kirk-hamlet, stands 7 furlongs inland, at an altitude of 337 feet, and is 8 miles W by S of its post-town Fraser- burgh, 6| NW of Strichen station. It has a post office ■with money order and savings' bank departments, 2 inns, and fairs on Monday week before 26 I\Iay and on 22 Nov. ; at it are the parish church (1818, 800 sittings) and a Free church. Pop. (1841) 376, (1871) 628.
The parish contains, too, the fishing tillage of Pennan, 3 1 miles WNW. It is bounded N by the JMoray Firth, KE by Pitsligo, SE by Tyrie, S by New Deer, W by King Edward and by Gamrie in Banffshire. From N to S its greatest length is 6f miles ; its width from E to "W tapers southward from 5f miles to | mile ; and its land area is 15,508 acres, including a detached triangular portion (2|- by 1^ mile) l3dng 1^ mile from the SE border. The seaboard, 6 miles long, is bold and rocky, especially to the W, presenting a wall of stupendous red sandstone cliffs, from 50 to 419 feet high, with only three openings where boats can land. Of numerous caverns, one, called Cowshaven, in the E, afforded a hiding-place after Culloden to Alexander Forbes, last Lord Pitsligo (1678-1762); another, in the bay of Nether- mill of Auehmedden, was entered, according to legend, by a piper, who ' was heard playing Lochaier no more a mile farer ben,' and himself was no more seen. Inland, the surface is level comparatively over the eastern portion of the parish, there attaining 124 feet at Quarry Head, 222 at Egypt, 194 at Dundarg, 248 at Coburty, and 443 at North Co^-fords ; but AV of the Dour it is much more rugged, rising, from N to S, to 522 feet near Pennan Farm, 590 near West Mains, 670 near Tongue, 703 on AVindyheads Hill, 612 near Glenhouses, 723 near Greens of Auehmedden, 487 near Bracklamore, and 524 at Mid Cowbog. This western portion is separated from Banff- shire by the Torr Burn, and through it 3 deep ravines, the Dens of Troup, Auehmedden, and Aberdour, each with its headlong rivulet, run northward to the sea ; but the drainage of the southern division is carried eastward, through GlasslawDen, by Gonar Burn, the Ugie's northern headstream (Smiles' »S'co<cAA''«i2«r«Zw<,1877,ch.viii.). The prevailing rocks, red sandstone and its conglomerates, be- long to the oldest Secondary formation, and are quarried for buildingmaterial, as formerly at Pennan for millstones; the soils are various, ranging from fertile loamy clay in the north-eastern low lands to very deejj peat earth on the south-western moors. Antiquities are 'Picts' houses, 'near Earls Seat ; the Cairn of Coburty, said to commemorate a Danish defeat ; the ruined pre-Reformation chapel of Chapelden ; and on the coast to the NE of the village, crowning a sandstone peninsula 63 feet high, the scanty vestiges of Dundargue Castle, built by the Englishman, Henry de Beaumont, fifth Earl of Buchan in right of his mfe, and captured from him by the regent. Sir Andrew Moray (1333). Some will have this to be the Aberdour of the 'grand old ballad of Sir Patrick Spens;' at least its church of St Drostan, at the mouth of the Dour, was certainly founded by St Columba in the latter half of the 6th century. ' With Drostan, his pupil, he came from Ili, or lona, as God had shown to them, unto Abbordohoir, or Aberdour, and Bede the Cruitlmech, or Pict, was Mormaer of Buchan before him ; and it was he that gave them that cathair, or town, in freedom for ever from Mormaer and Toisech' (vol. ii., p. 134, of Skene's Celt. Scot., 1877). The chief estates are Aberdour in the E and Auehmedden in the W, belonging to the Fordyces of Brucklay Castle in New Deer and the Bairds of Cam- busdoon in Ajt, who own respectively 20,899 and 5979 24
acres in Aberdeenshire, valued at £12,744 and £2704 per annum ; whilst 71 proprietors hold a yearly value in this parish of under £100. Purchased by the Gart- sherrie Bairds in 1854, Auehmedden belonged from 1568 to 1750 to their more ancient namesakes, whose last male representative, Wm. Baird (1701-77), compiled the interesting Genecdogical Collections concerning the Bairds of Auehmedden, Ncwbyth, and Sauf/hfonhall (2d. ed.. Loud. 1870). Parts of the civil parish (with 256 inhabi- tants in 1871) are included in the quoad sacra parishes of New Byth and New Pitsligo ; the rest forms a quoad sacra parish in the presbytery of Deer and synod of Aber- deen, the living being worth £393. Four public schools — Aberdour, Auehmedden, New Aberdour (junior), and Glasslaw — ■\\'ith respective accommodation for 150, 130, 102, and 70 children, had (1879) an average attendance of 107, 85, 62, and 30, and grants of £65, 10s., £64, lis., £43, lis., and £20. A^aluation (1881) £8671, 16s. 3d. Pop. (1801) 1304, (1841) 1645, (1861) 1997, (1871) 2176 ; of registration district (1871) 1945, (1881) 1931.— Ord. Sur., sh. 97, 1876.
Aberfeldy {Abyrfcaldybeg in 1301 ; Gael, abhir-fcath- aile, ' calm smooth confluence '), a village in detached portions of Dull and Logierait parishes, central Perth- shire, on the great highroad to the AA'^estern Highlands, at the terminus of a branch of the Highland railway, 8| miles AV by S of Ballinluig Junction, 16S AVNAV of Dunkeld, 32^ NAV of Perth, 794 NNAV of Edinburgh, and 945 NNE of Glasgow. It stands on both sides of Urlar Burn, 1 mile below its lovely Falls of MoxESS, and 3 furlongs S of its influx to the Tay ; which latter river is spanned, \ mile AVNAV of the village, by a five- arched bridge, erected by General AVade in 1733, and variously described as ' elegant and substantial ' by guide-books, by Dorothy AVordsworth as ' of ambitious and ugly architecture. ' At least, this bridge commands a noble view down the Tay, eastward, to Grantully Castle ; up the Tay, westward, to Castle Menzies and TajTiiouth Castle, the Strath of Appin, and Glen Lj'on ; southward of the narrow Glen of Moness,— all set in an amphitheati'e of high ribbed hills. AA^'itbin a radius of some 6 miles, from E to AA'', rise Grantully Hill (1717 feet), Stron a Ghamhuinn (1208), Meall Dearg (2258), Monadh nam Mial (1975), IMeall Dubh (2021), Meall Dun Dhomhnuill (2061), and Craig Hill (1845) to the S of the Tay ; and, to the N, the Bonnets (1338), Ben Eagach (2259), Farragon Hill (2559), AVeem Hill (1638), Meall Tarruin'chon (2559), and Craig Odhar (1710), beyond which last Shiehallion (3547) and Cam Mairg (3419) uprear their loftier summits. Strange that with such surroundings Aberfeldy should most be famed for what it has not, and seemingly never had, the ' birks ' of Burns's lyric*: —
' The braes ascend like lofty wa's. The foaming' stream deeji-roaring' fa'g, O'erliung- wi' fragrant spreading shaws,
The birks of Aberfeldy. The hoary cliffs are crown'd wi' flowers, White o'er the linn the burnie pours, And, rising, weets wi' misty showers
The birks of Aberfeldy.'
The date of Burns's visit was 29 Aug. 1787, of AVords- worth's and his sister's 5 Sept. 1803 ; and the Queen has driven twice through Aberfeldy, 7 Sept. 1842 and 3 Oct. 1866. Another episode was the embodiment of the Highland companies known as the ' Black AVatch' into the 43d (now 42d) Regiment, M'hich took place with great pomp, Jfay 1740, either laetween the village and Taybridge or at Boltachan, just across the river.
Chiefly consisting of one long street, a shorter joining it half-way, and a little square at their junction, Aber- feldy is a pleasant thriving place, and a favourite summer resort. It is held, with few exceptions, under building leases of 99 years from the Earl of Breadalbane, its sole proprietor ; and it has recently been much improved, being lighted with gas, and furnished since 1875 with a
• Rowans there are in abundance, and a myth has of course arisen that these have superseded the birks; but the absence of the latter from Aberfeldy in 1S03 is as certain as their presence at AuBiiGELDiE years before Burns's day.
ABERFOYLE
thorough drainage system and public waterworks. It has a head post office, with money order, sa^•iugs' bank, and telegraph departments, branches of the Bank of Scotland, the Commercial Bank, and the Union Bank of Scotland, a first-class hotel, a Young Men's Christian Association hall (1881), a literary society, a choral union, curling, cricket, and bowling clubs, a dye work, 2 saw- mills, and a woollen factory. A sheriff small-debt court sits on the ilonday followiug the first Saturday of April, August, and December ; and cattle sales are held on alter- nate Thursdays, fairs on the first Thursday of January (old style), the Tuesday of March after Perth, the last Friday of Jidy (old style), and the Thursday of Octo- ber before Doune Xovember Tryst. To a Free church (Gaelic, 800 sittings) in the presbytery of Breadalbane and synod of Perth and Stirling, a Congi-egational church (1817 ; 700 sittings), and a Baptist church (60 sittings), it was resolved, on 12 Oct. 1830, to add an Established church ; and Aberfeldy has besides a Koman Catholic station, occasionally seiTed from Ballechin ; whilst at "Weem, 1|^ mUe "^^W, is St David's Episcopal Church (1877). One public school, with accommodation for 319 childi-en, had (1879) an average attendance of 186, and a grant of £155, 16s. Pop. (1841) 910, (1861) 1145, (1871) 1159—660 in Dull, 499 in Logierait, (1881) 1260. Pop. of registration district, including parts of Dull, Logierait, Fortingall, Kenmore, and Weem (1861) 2402, (1871) 2286, (1881) 2263.— Ord. Sur., sh. 55, 1869.
Aberfoyle (Gael. obMr-a-phuill, 'confluence of the pool'), a hamlet and a parish on the SW border of Perthshire. The hamlet stands, towards the south- eastern comer of the parish, on the left bank of the Laggan, here crossed by a high and narrow three-arched bridge. It is 4 miles S by W of the Trossachs, and 7 NNW of Buchlyvie station, this being 15f miles "W of Stirling, and 14^ NE of Balloch ; by the Strath- endrick and AberfoAde Railway Bill (passed in the House of Lords, 15 June 1880) it is to be brought into direct connection -uith the railway system of Scotland. It has a post office under Stirling, -with money order and savings' bank departments, an orphanage, and an excel- lent hotel, the 'Bailie Nicol Jar^de,' successor to the celebrated ' Clachan,' whose site, about 1 mile westward, is marked by only a few large stones. Across the bridge, 3 furlongs SSW, is the parish church (rebuilt 1744 ; re- paired 1839 ; and seated for 250) ; and on this bridge, or its predecessor, a fray took place between a christen- ing party of the Grahams of Duchray and the followers of theEarlof Airthand Menteith, 13 Feb. 1671 (Chambers' Dom. An., ii. 309, 310). A cattle fair is held on the third Tuesday of April, a lamb fair on the Friday before the third Tuesday of August, and a cattle and hiring fair on the last Tuesday of October.
Tlie parish is bounded, IST by Loch Katrine, Achray "Water, Loch Achray, Dubh Abhainn, and the head of Loch Yenachar, which separate it from Callander ; E by Loch Drunkie and Port of ilouteith ; and S, SW, and "W by Stirlingshire, being parted for 6^ miles by Duchray Water from DrjTuen and Buchanan parishes. The great- est length, from near Loch Arklet at the north-western to Cobleland at the south-eastern angle, is lOf miles ; its width from NE to SW ranges between 2| and 6 miles ; and its area is 29,215 acres, of which 2405 are water. Twenty-two rivulets flow northward into Loch Katrixe, 2 into Achray Water, 2 into Loch Achray, and 2 into Loch Vexachar, while 3 more run eastward to Loch Druxkie ; but the drainage generally is carried east- south-eastward, belonging to the basin of the two head- streams of the Forth — the Avondhu and Duchray Water. The former, rising close to the western boundary, has a course of about 9 miles, and traverses Lochs Chon and Ard ; the latter, rising on the slopes of Ben Lomond (3192 feet) in Buchanan, flows 1;^ mile north-eastward through the interior of Aberfoyle, and joins the Avondhu near the old Clachan. Thence, as the shallow Laggan, their united waters wind 2| miles down the narrow Pass of Aberfoyle, beneath the precipices of Crai^^more, to Cobleland, where they enter Port of Monteitn. Loch
ABERGELDIE
Katrine lies 364 feet above sea-level ; and the Inversnaid Road, leading up the valley of the Laggan and Avondhu, has an altitude of 66 feet near the hamlet, of 112 feet towards the head of Loch Ard, of 299 at the foot of Loch Chon, and of 571 at 1 mile KXW of its head. A region of glens and mountains, of rivers, cascades, and lakes, of oak and birch woods, Aberfoyle is for ever associated with the scenes of Scott's Lady of the Lake, WaverUy, and Rob Roy; the last describes its little vale, its beauti- fid river, the bare yet romantic ranges of rock that hedge the landscape in on either side and form a magnificent background, while far to the eastward a glance is caught of the Loch of Monteith, and of Stirling Castle, dimly descried, along with the blue and distant line of the Ochils. From W to E rise Meall Meadhonach (893 feet), Caisteal Corrach (1075), Druim nan Carn (1500), Sron Lochie (1643), Beinn Bhreac (2295), 'huge' Ben Yexue (2393), Beinn an Fhogharaidh (2000), Craig- more (1271), Dun nam Muc (605), and Meall Ear (1091), to the N of the Avondhu and Laggan ; to the S are Beinn Uaimhe (1962) on the western border, Beinn Dubh (1675) and ilxdan an't Sagairt (1398) on the south-western, Coire Eirigh (852), Innis Ard (566), Bad Dearg (533), and Arndrum (454). The rocks include trap, conglomerate, a fissile slate of excellent roofing quality, and hard, blue, white-veined limestone, of wliich the two last have long been regularly worked. The glens are so small — none more than 1 mile in length and ^ mile in breadth — that the arable area is very limited, and what there is has mostly been reclaimed from heath, to which it would revert if let to lie fallow for a year or two. The lands of Aberfoyle, supposed to have anciently belonged to the neighbouring priory of Inch- mahome, were disposed of by the second and last Earl of Aii'th (d. 1694) to James, third Marquis and first Duke of Montrose, whose great-great-grandson, the fifth didie, is owner of the entii'e parish. Among its ministers were, Robert Kirk (d. 1692), translator of the Psalms into Gaelic verse ; WUliam Fisher (d. 1732), the last Episcopal clerg}'man who held a benefice in Scotland ; and Patrick Graham, author of Sketches Descriptive of Picturesque Scenery on the Southern Confines of Perthshire (1806) ; whilst natives were the Shakespearian critic, WUliam Richardson (1743-1814), and the poet WiUiam Glen, Avriter of ' Wae's me for Prince Charlie. ' Among its traditions is the defeat, in 1653, of Colonel Reid, a Cromwellian leader, by Graham of Duchray, at the Pass of Aberfoyle. The principal residences — Glashart, Lochard Lodge, Ledard, Bharhidachan, and Couligartan — lie all around Loch Ard. Aberfoyle is in the presbytery of Dunblane and synod of Perth and Stirling; the Living is worth £201. A public school at the hamlet and a Society's school at Kinlochard (5 miles W by K), with respective accommodation for 72 and 66 children, had (1879) an averaije attendance of 37 and 26, and grants of £35, 2s. and £36, 9s. Yaluation (1881) £4579, 7s. 2d. Pop. (1S31) 660, (1841) 549, (1861) 565, (1871) 432, (1881) 465.— Orr/. Sur., sh. 38, 1871.
Abergeldie (Gael, ahhir-gile, 'confluence of the clear stream '), the Highland residence of the Prince of Wales, iu Crathie and Braemar parish, SW Aberdeenshire, stands, at an altitude of 840 feet, on the right bank of the Dee, 6 miles above Ballater, and 2 below Balmoral. Behind it rises Craig-na-Ban, a rounded granitic hill, 1736 feet high ; and caim-croA^-ned Geallaig (2439 feet) fronts it across the river, which at this point is spanned by a curious ' rope-and-cradle ' bridge. The Castle is a mas- sive and imposing building, its oldest part a tuiTeted square block-tower; the estate, extending 10 miles along Deeside, is finely planted with old Scotch firs, larch, and the natural birch, mixed in the private grounds wdth spruce, ash, plane, and sycamore. The Birks, indeed, of Abergeldie are celebrated in a time-honoured melody, though Burns capriciously transferred their fame to Aberfeldy, where {teste Dorothy Wordsworth) no birks were to be seen in 1803. Sir Alexander Gordon, son of the first Earl of Huntly, acquired the lands of Aber- geldie in 1482 ; in 1848 the late Prince Consort purchased the lease of them for 40 years. """" '^ "'
The Duchess of Kent
25
ABERIACHAN
spent several autumns here between 1S50 and 1861 ; and here the Empress Eugenie passed the October following the loss of the Prince Imperial (1879).
Aberiacdian, a ri^nilet on the confines of the parishes of Inverness and Urquhart, Inverness-shire. It traverses romantic scenery; makes a succession of falls, from 10 to 30 feet in leap; and enters the lower part of Loch Ness, about 9 miles from Inverness. A spar cave ad- jacent to it, and to the road from Inverness to Fort Augustus, was discovered not many j-ears ago ; measures about 21 feet in length, from 6 to 12 feet in height, and from 3 to 6 feet in -width, and makes an interesting dis- play of stalactites and stalagmites.
Aberlady (anc. Abcrlcfdi = Gael. abhir-Iiobh-aite, ' confluence of the smooth place '), a village and a coast parish of NW Haddingtonshire. The village stands at the mouth of the sluggish PefTer Burn, 3 miles NE of Longniddry station, and 5:^ NAV of Haddington. Consisting chiefly of one long street of good appearance, it is an occasional resort of sea-bathers from Haddington ; has a post oifice under Longniddry, with money order and savings' bank departments, an hotel, and some good shops; is lighted with gas; and, in 1871, had a popula- tion of 477.
The parish is bounded N by Dirleton, E and SE by Haddington, S by Gladsmuir, and W by the Firth of Forth. It has an ecjual extreme length and breadth of 3| miles ; its area is 4928 acres, of which 21i are links, 581 foreshore, and 6 water. The surface rises very slowly from the shore, nowhere much exceeds 200 feet of elevation, and is mostly flat, yet has a pleasant aspect, abounding in artificial adornment, and command- ing views of the Firth and its shores away to the Lomond hills, the Edinburgh heights, the Pentlands, and the Gramjnans. The coast is everywhere low, and has a gi-eat breadth of foreshore. Vessels of 60 or 70 tons can ascend the channel of the Pefl'er, at spring tides, to ■within a few hundred yards of the village, and lie tolerably secure ;