EMINISCENCES

1819-1899

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FROM SUNSET RIDGE: Poems Old and New. i2mo,

$1.50. REMINISCENCES. With many Portraits and other

Illustrations. Crown 8vo, $2.50. IS POLITE SOCIETY POLITE? and other Essays.

With a Portrait of Mrs. Howe. Square 8vo, $1.50.

HOUGHTON, MIFFLIN & CO. Boston and New York.

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From a photograph by Hardy, lS()7

REMINISCENCES

1819 - 1899

BY

JULIA WARD HOWE

WITH PORTRAITS AND OTHER ILLUSTRATIONS

BOSTON AND NEW YORK HOUGHTON, MIFFLIN AND COMPANY

1899

COPYRIGHT, 1899, BY JULIA WARD HOWE ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

CONTENTS

CHAPTKR		PAGB
I.	Birth, Parentage, Childhood .	I
II.	Literary New York	21
III.	New York Society	29
IV.	Home Life: My Father	43
V.	My Studies	56
VI.	Samuel Ward and the Astors	64
VII.	Marriage : Tour in Europe	81
VIII.	First Years in Boston	144
IX.	Second Visit to Europe ....	188
X.	A Chapter about Myself ....	20s
XI.	Anti-Slavery Attitude : Literary Work :
	Trip to Cuba	218
XII.	The Church of the Disciples : in War Time	244
XIII.	The Boston Radical Club : Dr. F. H.
	Hedge	281
XIV.	Men and Movements in the Sixties .	304
XV.	A Woman's Peace Crusade	327
XVI.	Visits to Santo Domingo ....	345
XVII.	The Woman Suffrage Movement	372
XVIII.	Certain Clubs	400
XIX.	Another European Trip ....	410
XX.	Friends and Worthies : Social Successes .	428

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE

Julia Ward Howe Frontispiece

From a photograph by Hardy, 1897.

Sarah Mitchell, Niece of Gener.\l Francis Marion

AND Grandmother of Mrs. Howe 4

From a paintiiig by Waldo and Jewett.

Julia Ward and her Brothers, Samuel and Henry 8 From a miniature by Anne Hall.

Julia Cutler Ward, Mother of Mrs. Howe ... 12 From a miniattire by Anne Hall.

Samuel Ward, Father of Mrs. Howe 46

From a miniature by Anne Hall.

Samuel Ward, Jr 68

From a painting by Baron Vogel.

Florence Nightingale 138

From a photograph.

The South Boston Home of Mr. and Mrs. Howe . 152 From a painting in the possession of M. Anagncs.

Wendell Phillips, at the Age of 48 158

From a photograph lent by Francis J. Garrison, Boston.

Theodore Parker 166

From a photograph by J. J. Hawes.

Julia Ward Howe 176

From a painting (1847) by Joseph Ames.

Samuel Gridley Howe, M. D 230

From a photograph by Black, about 1859.

James Freeman Clarke 246

From a photograph by the Notman Photographic Com- pany.

vi LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

John Brown 254

From a photograph (about 1857) lent by Francis J. Garrison, Boston.

John A. Andrew 262

From a photograph by Black.

Julia Ward Howe 270

From a photograph by J. J. Hawes, about 1861.

Facsimile of the First Draft of the Battle Hymn

OF the Republic 276

From the original MS. in the possession of Mrs. E. P. Whipple, Boston.

Ralph Waldo Emerson 292

From a photograph by Black. Frederic Henry Hedge, D. D 302

From a photograph lent by his daughter, Charlotte A.

Hedge.

Samuel Gridley Howe, M. D 328

From a photograph by A. Marshall (187c), in the pos- session of the Massachusetts Club.

Lucy Stone 376

From a photograph by the Notman Photographic Com- pany.

Maria Mitchell 386

From a photograph.

The Newport Home of Mr. and Mrs. Howe . . . 406 From a photograph by Briskham and Davidson.

Thomas Gold Appleton 432

From a photograph lent by Mrs. John Murray Forbes.

Julia Romana Anagnos 440

From a photograph.

REMINISCENCES

CHAPTER I

BIRTH, PARENTAGE, CHILDHOOD

I HAVE been urgently asked to put together my reminiscences. I could ^\^sh that I had begun to do so at an earlier period of my life, because at this time of writing the lines of the past are somewhat confused in my memory. Yet, with God's help, I shall endeavor to do justice to the individuals whom I have known, and to the events of which I have had some personal knowledge.

Let me say at the very beginning that I esteem this century, now near its close, to have em.inently deserved a record among those which have been great landmarks in human history. It has seen the culmination of prophecies, the birth of new hopes, and a marvelous multiplication both of the ideas which promote human happiness and of the resources which enable man to make himself mas- ter of the world. Napoleon is said to have for- bidden his subordinates to tell him that any order of his was impossible of fulfillment. One might

2 REMINISCENCES

think that the genius of this age must have uttered a like injunction. To attain instantaneous com- munication with our friends across oceans and through every continent ; to command locomotion whose swiftness changes the relations of space and time ; to steal from Nature her deepest se- crets, and to make disease itself the minister of cure ; to compel the sun to keep for us the record of scenes and faces, of the great shows and pa- geants of time, of the perishable forms whose charm and beauty deserve to remain in the world's possession, — these are some of the achievements of our nineteenth century. Even more wonderful than these may we esteem the moral progress of the race ; the decline of political and religious en- mities, the growth of good-will and mutual under- standing between nations, the waning of popular superstition, the spread of civic ideas, the recogni- tion of the mutual obligations of classes, the ad- vancement of woman to dignity in the household and efficiency in the state. All this our century has seen and approved. To the ages following it will hand on an inestimable legacy, an imperish- able record.

While my heart exults at these grandeurs of which I have seen and known something, my con- tribution to their history can be but of fragmen- tary and fitful interest. On the world's great scene, each of us can only play his little part, often

BIRTH, PARENTAGE, CHILDHOOD 3

with poor comprehension of the mighty drama which is going on around him. If any one of us undertakes to set this down, he should do it with the utmost truth and simpUcity ; not as if Seneca or Tacitus or St. Paul were speaking, but as he himself, plain Hodge or Dominie or Mrs. Grundy,( is moved to speak. He should not borrow from others the sentiments which he ought to have entertained, but relate truthfully how matters ap- peared to him, as they and he went on. Thus much I can promise to do in these pages, and no more.

I was born on May 27, 18 19, in the city of New York, in Marketfield Street, near the Bat- tery. My father was of Rhode Island birth and descent. One of his grandmothers was the beau- tiful Catharine Ray to whom are addressed some of Benjamin Franklin's published letters. His father attained the rank of lieutenant-colonel in the war of the Revolution, being himself the son of Governor Samuel Ward, of Rhode Island,^ mar-

1 Governor Samuel Ward refused to enforce the Stamp Act, and also did valuable service as a member of the First and Sec- ond Continental Congresses. He frequently served as chair- man of the Committee of the Whole, during the secret sessions of Congress. His death, in the spring of 1776, is said to have been due in large measure to the fatigue caused by his incessant labors in behalf of his country. Although he did not live to sign the Declaration of Independence, he was one of the first men to prophesy the separation of the colonies from the mother country.

4 REMINISCENCES

ried to a daughter of Governor Greene, of the same state. My mother was grandniece to General Francis Marion, of Huguenot descent, known in the Revolution as the Swamp-fox of southern cam- paigns. Her father was Benjamin Clarke Cutler, whose first ancestor in this country was John Da Mesmekir, of Holland.

Let me here remark that an expert in chiro- mancy, after making a recent examination of my hand, exclaimed, " You inherit military blood ; your hand shows it."

My own earliest recollections are of a fine house on the Bowling Green, a region of high fashion in those days. In the summer mornings my nurse sometimes walked abroad with me, and showed me the young girls of our neighborhood, engaged with their skipping ropes. Our favorite resort was the Battery, where the flagstaff used in the Re- volution was still to be seen. The fort at Castle Garden had already been converted into a plea- sure resort, where fireworks and ices might be enjoyed.

We were six children in all, yet Wordsworth's little maid would have reckoned us as seven, as a sister of four years had died shortly before my birth, leaving me her name and the dignity of eldest daughter. She was always mentioned in the family as the ^rsf little Julia.

My two eldest brothers, Samuel and Henry

SARAH MITCHELL (,Mrs. Howes grandmother) From a painthig by Waldo and Jeivett

BIRTH, PARENTAGE, CHILDHOOD 5

Ward, were pupils at Round Hill School. The third, Francis Marion, named for the General, was my junior by fifteen months, and continued to be my constant playmate until, at the proper age, he joined the others at Round Hill School.

A few words regarding my mother may not here be out of place. Married at sixteen, she died at the age of twenty-seven, so beloved and mourned by all who knew her that my early years were full of the testimony borne by surviving friends to the beauty and charm of her character. She had been a pupil at the school of Mrs. Elizabeth Graham, of saintly memory, and had inherited from her own mother a taste for intellectual pur- suits. She was especially fond of poetry and a few lovely poems of hers remain to show that she was no stranger to its sacred domain. One of these was printed in a periodical of her own time, and is preserved in Griswold's " Female Poets of America." Another set of verses is addressed to me in the days of my babyhood. All of these bear the imprint of her deeply religious character.

Mrs. Margaret Armstrong Astor, of whom more will be said in these annals, remembered my mo- ther as prominent in the society of her youth, and spoke of her as beautiful in countenance. An old lady, resident in Bordentown, N. J., where Joseph, ex-king of Spain, made his home for many years, had seen my mother arrayed for a dinner at this

6 REMINISCENCES

royal residence, in a white dress, probably of em- broidered cambric, and a lilac turban. Her early death was a lifelong misfortune to her children, who, although tenderly bred and carefully watched, have been forced to pass their days without the dear refuge of a mother's heart, the wise guidance of a mother's inspiration.

A dear old cousin of my father's, who lived to the age of one hundred and two years, loved to talk of a visit which she had made in her youth to my grandfather Ward, then resident in New York. She had not quite forgiven him for not allowing her to attend an assembly on which, being only sixteen years of age, she had set her heart. Years after this time, when such vanities had quite gone out of her mind, she again visited rela- tives in the city, and came to spend the day with my mother. Of this occasion she said to me : "Julia, your mother's tact was remarkable, and she showed it on that day, for, knowing me to be a young woman of serious character, she pre- sented me on my arrival with a plain linen collar which she had made for me. On a table beside her lay Law's ' Serious Call to the Unconverted.' Don't you see how well she had suited matters to my taste .-' "

This aged relative used to boast that she had never read a novel. She desired to make one exception in favor of the story of the Schonberg-

BIRTH, PARENTAGE, CHILDHOOD 7

Cotta family, but, hearing that it was a work of fiction, esteemed it safest to adhere to the rule which she had observ'ed for so many years.

Her son, lately deceased, once told me that when she felt called upon to chastise him-for some childish offense, she would pray over him so long that he would cry out: "Mother, it's time to begin whipping."

•Her husband was a son of General Nathanael Greene, of Revolutionary fame.

The attention bestowed upon impressions of childhood to-day will, I hope, justify me in record- ing some of the earliest points in consciousness which I still recall, I remember when a thimble was first given to me, some simple bit of work being at the same time placed in my hand. Some one said, "Take the needle in this hand." I did so, and, placing the thimble on a finger of the other hand, I began to sew without its aid, to the amusement of my teacher. This trifle appears to me an early indication of a want of perception as to the use of tools which has accompanied me through life. I remember also that, being told that I must ask pardon for some childish fault, I said to my mother, with perfect contentment, "Oh yes, I pardon you," and was surprised to hear that in this way I had not made the amende honorable.

I encountered great difficulty in acquiring the

8 REMINISCENCES

th sound, when my mother tried to teach me to call her by that name. "Muzzer, muzzer," was all that I could manage to say. But the dear parent presently said, " If you cannot do better than that, you will have to go back and call me mamma." The shame of going back moved me to one last effort, and, summoning my utmost strength of tongue, I succeeded in saying "mo- ther," an achievement from which I was never obliged to recede.

A journey up the Hudson River was under- taken, when I was very young, for the bettering of my mother's health. An older sister of hers went with us, as well as a favorite waiting-woman, and a young physician whose care had saved my father's life a year or more before my own birth. After reaching Albany, we traveled in my father's carriage ; the grown persons occupying the seats, and I sitting in my little chair at their feet. A book of short tales and poems was often resorted to for my amusement, and I still remember how the young doctor read to me, " Pity the sorrows of a poor old man," and how my tears came, and could not be hidden.

The sight of Niagara caused me much surprise. Playing on the piazza of the hotel, one day, with only the doctor for my companion, I ventured to ask him, " Who made that great hole where the water comes down .-• " He replied, " The great

JULIA WARD AND HER BROTHERS, SAMUEL AND HENRY From a miniature by A tine Hall

BIRTH, PARENTAGE, CHILDHOOD 9

Maker of all." "Who is that ? " I innocently in- quired ; and he said, " Do you not know ? Our Father who art in heaven." I felt that I ought to have known, and went away somewhat abashed.

Another day my mother told me that we were going to visit Red Jacket, a great Indian chief, and that I must be very polite to him. She gave me a twist of tobacco tied with a blue ribbon, which I was to present to him, and bade me ob- serve the silver medal which I should see hung on his neck, and which, she said, had been given to him by General Washington. We drove to the Indian encampment, of which I dimly remember the extent and the wigwams. A tall figure ad- vanced to the carriage. As its door was opened, I sprang forward, clasped my arms around the neck of the noble savage, and was astonished at his cool reception of such a greeting. I was sur- prised and grieved afterwards to learn that I had not done exactly the right thing. The Indians, in those days and long after, occupied numerous settlements in the western part of the State of New York, where one often saw the boys with their bows and arrows, and the squaws carrying their papooses on their backs.

The journey here mentioned must have taken place when I was little more than four years old. Another year and a half brought me the burden of a great sorrow. I recall months of sweet com-

lo REMINISCENCES

panionship with the first and dearest of friends, my mother. The last summer of her life was passed at a fine country-seat in Bloomingdale, which was then a picturesque country place, about six miles from New York, but is now incorporated in the city.

My father was fond of fine horses, and the pets of the stable played no unimportant part in our childish affection. The family coach was an early institution with us, and in the days of which I now speak, its exterior was of a delicate yellow, known as straw-color, while the lining and cush- ions were of bright blue cloth. This combination of color was effected to please my dear mother, who was accounted in her time a woman of excel- lent taste.

I remember this summer as a particularly happy period. My younger brother and I had our lessons in a lovely green bower. Our French teacher came out at intervals in the Bloomingdale stage. My mother often took me with her for a walk in the beautiful garden, from which she plucked flowers that she arranged with great taste. There was much mysterious embroidering of small caps and gowns, the purpose of which I little guessed. The autumn came, and with it our return to toAvn. And then, one bitter morning, I awoke to hear the words, "Julia, your mother is dead." Be- fore this my father had announced to us that a

BIRTH, PARENTAGE, CHILDHOOD ii

little sister had arrived, " And she can open and shut her eyes," he said, smiling.

His grief at the loss of my mother was so in- tense as to lay him prostrate with illness. He told me, years after this time, that he had wel- comed the physical agony which perforce diverted his thoughts from the cause of his mental suffer- ing. The little sister of whose coming he had told us so joyfully was for a long time kept from his sight. The rest of us were gathered around him, but this feeble little creature was not asked for. At last my dear old grandfather came to visit us, and learned the state of my father's feelings. The old gentleman went into the nursery, took the tiny infant from its nurse, and laid it in my father's arms. The little one thenceforth became the object of his most tender affection.

He regarded all his children vdih great solici- tude, feeling, as he afterward said to one of us, that he must now be mother as well as father. My mother's last request had been that her un- married sister, the same one who had accompanied us on the journey to Niagara, should be sent for to have charge of us, and this arrangement was speedily effected.

This aunt of ours had long been a care-taker in her mother's household, where she had had much to do with bringing up her younger sisters and brothers. My mother had been accustomed to

12 REMINISCENCES

borrow her from time to time, and my aunt had threatened to hang out a sign over the door with the inscription, " Cheering done here by the job, by E. Cutler." She was a person of rare honesty, entirely conscientious in character, possessed of few accomplishments, but endowed with the keen- est sense of humor. She watched over our early years with incessant care. We little ones were kept much in our warm nursery. We were taken out for a drive in fine weather, but rarely went out on foot. As a consequence of this overcher- ishing, we were constantly liable to suffer from colds and sore throats. The young physician of whom I have already spoken became an inmate of our house soon after my mother's death. He was afterward well known in New York society as an excellent practitioner, and as a man of a certain genius. Those were the days of mighty doses, and the slightest indisposition was sure to call down upon us the administration of the drugs then in favor with the faculty, but now rarely used.

My father's affliction was such that a change of scene became necessary for him. The beautiful house at the Bowling Green was sold, with the new furniture which had been ordered expressly for my mother's pleasure, and which we never saw uncovered. We removed to Bond Street, which was then at the upper extremity of New York city. My father's friends said to him, " Mr.

\

X

JULIA CUTLER WARD (Mrs. Howe's mother) From a miniature by A nne Hall

BIRTH, PARENTAGE, CHILDHOOD 13

Ward, you are going out of town." And so in- deed it seemed at that time. We occupied one of three white freestone houses, and saw from our windows the gradual building up of the street, which is now in the central part of New York. My father had purchased a large lot of land at the comer of our street and Broadway. On a part of this he subsequently erected a house which was considered one of the finest in the city.

My father was disposed to be extremely careful in the choice of our associates, and intended, no doubt, that we should receive our education at home. At a later day his plans were changed somewhat, and after some experience of govern- esses and masters I was at last sent to a school in the near neighborhood of our house. I was nine years old at this time, somewhat precocious for my age, and endowed with a good memory. This fact may have led to my being at once placed in a class of girls much older than myself, especially occupied with the study of Paley's " Moral Philo- sophy." I managed to commit many pages of this book to memory, in a rather listless and perfunc- tory manner. I was much more interested in the study of chemistry, although it was not illustrated by any experiments. The system of education followed at that time consisted largely in memoriz- ing from the text-books then in use. Removing to another school, I had excellent instruction in

14 REMINISCENCES

penmanship, and enjoyed a course of lectures on history, aided by the best set of charts that I have ever seen, the work of Professor Bostwick. In geometry I made quite a briUiant beginning, but soon fell off from my first efforts. The study of languages was very congenial to me ; I had been accustomed to speak French from my earliest years. To this I was enabled to add some know- ledge of Latin, and afterward of Italian and Ger- man.

The routine of my school life was varied now and then by a concert and by Handel's oratorios, which were given at long intervals by an associa- tion whose title I cannot now recall. I eagerly anticipated, and yet dreaded, these occasions, for my enjoyment of them was succeeded by a reac- tion of intense melancholy.

The musical " stars " of those days are probably quite out of memory in these later times, but I re- member some of them with pleasure. It is worth noticing that, while the earliest efforts in music in Boston produced the Handel and Haydn Society, and led to the occasional performance of a sym- phony of Beethoven or of Mozart, the taste of New York inclined more to operatic music. The brief visit of Garcia and his troupe had brought the best works of Rossini before the public. These performances were followed, at long inter- vals, by seasons of English opera, in which Mrs.

BIRTH, PARENTAGE, CHILDHOOD 15

Austin was the favorite prima donna. This lady sang also in oratorio, and I recall her rendering of the soprano solos in Handel's " Messiah " as some- what mannered, but on the whole quite impres- sive.

A higher grade of talent came to us in the per- son of Mrs. Wood, famous before her marriage as Miss Paton. I heard great things of her perform- ance in " La Sonnambula," which I was not allowed to see. I did hear her, however, at concerts and in oratorios, and I particularly remember her ren- dering of the famous soprano song, " To mighty kings he gave his acts." Her voice was beautiful in quality and of considerable extent. It pos- sessed a liquid and fluent flexibility, quite unlike the curious staccato and tremolo effects so much in favor to-day.

My father's views of religious duty became much more stringent after my mother's death. I had been twice taken to the opera during the Gar- cia performances, when I was scarcely more than seven years of age, and had seen and heard the Diva Malibran, then known as Signorina Garcia, in the roles of Cenerentola (Cinderella) and Rosina in the " Barbiere di Seviglia." Soon after this time the doors were shut, and I knew of theatrical mat- ters only by hearsay. The religious people of that period had set their faces against the drama in every form. I remember the destruction by

i6 REMINISCENCES

fire of the first Bowery Theatre, and how this was spoken of as a "judgment" upon the wickedness of the stage and of its patrons. A well-known theatre in Richmond, Va., took fire while a per- formance was going on, and the result was a deplorable loss of life. The pulpits of the time " improved " this event by sermons which reflected severely upon the frequenters of such places of amusement, and the "judgment " was long spoken of with holy horror.

My musical education, in spite of the limitations of opportunity just mentioned, was the best that the time could afford. I had my first lessons from a a very irritable French artist, of whom I stood in such fear that I could remember nothing that he taught me. A second teacher, Mr. Boocock, had more patience, and soon brought me forward in my studies. He had been a pupil of Cramer, and his taste had been formed by hearing the best music in London, which then, as now, commanded all the great musical talent of Europe. He gave me lessons for many years, and I learned from him to appreciate the works of the great compos- ers, Beethoven, Handel, and Mozart. When I grew old enough for the training of my voice, Mr. Boocock recommended to my father Signor Car- dini, an aged Italian, who had been an intimate of the Garcia family, and was well acquainted with Garcia's admirable method. Under his care my

BIRTH, PARENTAGE, CHILDHOOD 17

voice improved in character and in compass, and the daily exercises in holding long notes gave strength to my lungs. I think that I have felt all my life through the benefit of those early lessons. Signor Cardini remembered Italy before the inva- sion of Napoleon I., and sometimes entertained me with stories of the escapades of his student life. He had resided long in London, and had known the Duke of Wellington. He related to me that once, when he was visiting the great sol- dier at his country-seat near the sea, the duke in- vited him to look through his telescope, saying, " Signor Cardini, venez voir comme on travaille les Frangais." This must have had reference to some manoeuvre of the English fleet, I suppose. Mr. Boocock thought that it would be desirable for me to take part in concerted pieces, with other instruments. This exercise brought me great de- light in the performance of certain trios and quar- tettes. The reaction from this pleasure, however, was very painful, and induced at times a visitation of morbid melancholy which threatened to affect my health.

While I greatly disapprove of the scope and suggestions presented by Count Tolstoi in his " Kreutzer Sonata," I yet think that, in the train- ing of young persons, some regard should be had to the sensitiveness of youthful nerves, and to the overpowering response which they often make to

rS REMINISCENCES

the appeals of music. The dry practice of a single instrument and the simple drill of choral exercises will not be apt to overstimulate the currents of nerve force. On the other hand, the power and sweep of great orchestral performances, or even the suggestive charm of some beautiful voice, will sometimes so disturb the mental equilibrium of the hearer as to induce in him a listless melan- choly, or, worse still, an unreasoning and unrea- sonable discontent.

The early years of my youth were passed in the seclusion not only of home life, but of a home most carefully and jealously guarded from all that might be represented in the orthodox trinity of evil, the world, the flesh, and the devil. My fa- ther had become deeply imbued with the religious ideas of the time. He dreaded for his children the dissipations of fashionable society, and even the risks of general intercourse with the unsancti- fied many. He early embraced the cause of tem- perance, and became president of the first temper- ance society formed in this country. As a result, wine was excluded from his table. This privation gave me no trouble, but my brothers felt it, espe- cially the eldest, who had passed some years in Europe, where the use of wine was, as it still is, universal. I was walking with my father one evening when we met my two younger brothers, each with a cigar in his mouth. My father was

BIRTH, PARENTAGE, CHILDHOOD 19

much troubled, and said, "Boys, you must give this up, and I will give it up, too. From this time I forbid you to smoke, and I will join you in relin- quishing the habit." I am afraid that this sacri- fice on my father's part did not have the desired effect, but am quite certain that he never wit- nessed the infringement of his command.

At the time of which I speak, my father's family all lived in our immediate neighborhood. He had considerably distanced his brothers in for- tune, and had built for himself the beautiful house of which I have already spoken. In the same street with us lived my music-loving uncle, Henry, somewhat given to good cheer, and of a genial disposition. In a house nearer to us resided my grandfather, Samuel Ward, with an unmarried daughter and three bachelor sons, John, Richard, and William. The outings of my young girlhood were confined to this family circle. I went to school, indeed, but never to dancing-school, a so- ber little dancing-master giving us lessons at home. I used to hear, with some envy, of Mon- sieur Chamaud's classes and of his "publics," where my schoolfellows disported themselves in their best clothes. My grandfather was a stately old gentleman, a good deal more than six feet in height, very mild in rhanner, and fond of a game of whist. With us children he used to play a very simple game called "Tom, come tickle me.'*

20 REMINISCENCES

Cards were not allowed in my father's house, and my brothers used to resort to the grand-paternal mansion when they desired this diversion.

The eldest of my father's unmarried brothers was my uncle John, a man more tolerant than my father, and full of kindly forethought for his nieces and nephews. In his youth he had sustained an injury which deprived him of speech for more than a year. His friends feared that he would never speak again, but his mother, trying one day to render him some small assistance, did not succeed to her mind, and said, " I am a poor, awkward old woman." " No, you are not ! " he exclaimed, and at once recovered his power of speech. He was anxious that his nieces should be well instructed in practical matters, and perhaps he grudged a little the extra time which we were accustomed to devote to books and music. He was fond of send- ing materials for dresses to me and my sisters, but insisted that we should make them up for our- selves. This we managed to do, with a good deal of help from the family seamstress. When I had published my first literary venture, uncle John showed me in a newspaper a favorable notice of my work, saying, "This is my little girl who knows about books, and writes an article and has it printed, but I wish that she knew more about housekeeping," — a sentiment which in after years I had occasion to echo with fervor. •

CHAPTER II

LITERARY NEW YORK

Although the New York of my youth had Httle claim to be recognized as a literary centre, it yet was a city whose tastes and manners were much influenced by people of culture. One of these, Robert Sands, was the author of a poem entitled "Yamoyden," its theme being an Indian story or legend. His family dated back to the Sands who once owned a considerable part of Block Island, and from whom Sands Point takes its name. If I do not mistake, these Sands were connected by marriage with one of my ancestors, who were also settlers in Block Island. I re- member having seen the poet Sands in my child- hood, a rather awkward, near-sighted man. His life was not a long one. A sister of his, Julia Sands, ^^Tote a biographical sketch of her brother, and was spoken of as a literary woman.

William Cullen Bryant resided in New York many years. He took a prominent part in politics, but mingled little in general society, being much absorbed in his duties as editor of the " Evening Post," of which he was also the founder.

22 REMINISCENCES

I first heard of Fitz-Greene Halleck as the author of various satirical pieces of verse relating to personages and events of nearly eighty years ago. He is now best remembered by his " Marco Bozzaris," a noble lyric which we have heard quoted in view of recent lamentable encounters between Greek and Barbarian.

Among the lecturers who visited New York, I remember Professor Silliman of Yale College, Dr. Follen, who spoke of German literature, George Combe, and Mr. Charles Lyell.

Charles King, for many years editor of a daily paper entitled "The New York American," was a man of much literary taste. He had been a pupil at Harrow when Byron was there. He was an appreciative friend of my father, although as con- vivial in his tastes as my father was the reverse. I remember that once, when a temperance meet- ing was going on in one of our large parlors, Mr. King called and, finding my father thus engaged, began to frolic with us young people. He even dared to say : " How I should like to open those folding doors just wide enough to fire off a bottle of champagne at those temperance folks ! "

He was the patron of my early literary ven- tures, and kindly allowed my fugitive pieces to appear in his paper. He always advocated the abolition of slavery, and could never forgive Henry Clay his part in effecting the Missouri Compro-

LITERARY NEW YORK 23

mise. He and his brother James, my father's junior partner, were sons of Rufus King, a man eminent in pubhc life. I was a child of perhaps eight years when I heard my elders say with re- gret that "old Mr. King was dying."

Quite late in his life, Mr. Charles King became President of Columbia College. This institution, with the houses of its officers, occupied the greater part of Park Place. Its professors were well known in society. The college was very con- servative in its management. The professor of mathematics was asked one day by one of his class whether the sun did not really stand still in answer to the prayer of Joshua. He laughed at the question, and was in consequence reprimanded by the faculty.

Professor Anthon, of the college, became known through his school and college editions of many Latin classics. Professor Moore, in the depart- ment of Hellenics, was popular among the under- graduates, partly, it was said, on account of his very indulgent method of conducting examinations. Professor McVickar, in the chair of Philosophy, was one of the early admirers of Ruskin. The families of these gentlemen mingled a good deal in the society of the time, and contributed no doubt to impart to it a tone of polite culture. I should say that before the forties the sons of the best families of New York city were usually sent to

24 REMINISCENCES

Columbia College. My own brothers, three in number, were among its graduates. New York parents in those days looked upon Harvard as a Unitarian institution, and shunned its influence for their sons.

The venerable Lorenzo Da Ponte was for many years a resident of New York, and a teacher of the Italian language and literature. When Dom- inick Lynch introduced the first opera troupe to the New York public, sometime in the twenties, the audience must surely have comprised some of the old man's pupils, well versed in the language of the librettos. In earlier life, he had furnished the text of several of Mozart's operas, among them " Don Giovanni " and " Le Nozze di Figaro."

Dominick Lynch, whom I have just mentioned, was an enthusiastic lover of music. His visits to my father's house were occasions of delight to me. He was without a rival as an interpreter of ballads, and especially of the songs of Thomas Moore. His voice, though not powerful, was clear and musical, and his touch on the pianoforte was perfect. I remember creeping under the instru- ment to hide my tears when I heard him sing the ballad of " Lord Ullin's Daughter."

Charles Augustus Davis, the author of the "Letters of J. Downing, Major, Downingville Militia, Second Brigade, to his old Friend Mr. D wight, of the New York Daily Advertiser," was

LITERARY NEW YORK 25

a gentleman well known in the New York society of my youth. The letters in question contained imaginary reports of a tour which the writer pro- fessed to have made with General Jackson, when the latter was a candidate for reelection to the Presidency. They were very popular at the time, but have long passed into oblivion. I remember that in one of them. Major Downing describes an occasion on which it was important that the gen- eral should interlard his address with a few Latin quotations. Not possessing any learning of that kind, he concluded his speech with : " E pluribus unum, gentlemen, sine qua non."

The great literary boast of the city at the time of which I speak was undoubtedly Washington Irving. I was still a child in the nursery when I heard of his return to America, after a residence of some years in Spain. A public dinner was given in honor of this event. One who had been present at it told of Mr. Irving' s embarrassment when he was called upon for a speech. He rose, waved his hand in the air, and could only utter a few sentences, which were heard with difficulty.

Many years after this time I was present, with other ladies, at a public dinner given in honor of Charles Dickens by prominent citizens of New York. We ladies were not bidden to the feast, but were allowed to occupy a small anteroom whose open door commanded a view of the tables.

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When the speaking was about to begin, a message came, suggesting that we should take possession of some vacant seats at the great table. This we were glad to do. Washington Irving was presi- dent of the evening, and upon him devolved the duty of inaugurating proceedings by an address of welcome to the distinguished guest. People who sat near me whispered, " He '11 break down — he always does." Mr. Irving rose, and uttered a sentence or two. His friends interrupted him by applause which was intended to encourage him, but which entirely overthrew his self-possession. He hesitated, stammered, and sat down, saying, " I cannot go on." It was an embarrassing and painful moment, but Mr. John Duer, an eminent lawyer, came to his friend's assistance, and with suitable remarks proposed the health of Charles Dickens, to which Mr. Dickens promptly re- sponded. This he did in his happiest manner, covering Mr. Irving's defeat by a glowing eulogy of his literary merits.

" Whose books do I take to bed with me, night after night } Washington Irving's ! as one who is present can testify." This one was evidently Mrs. Dickens, who was seated beside me. Mr. Dickens proceeded to speak of international copyright, saying that the prime object of his visit to Amer- ica was the promotion of this important measure. I met Washington Irving several times at the

LITERARY NEW YORK 27

house of John Jacob Astor. He was silent in general company, and usually fell asleep at the dinner-table. This occurrence was indeed so com- mon with him that the guests present only noticed it with a smile. After a nap of some ten minutes he would open his eyes and take part in the con- versation, apparently unconscious of having been asleep.

In his youth, Mr. Irving had traveled quite extensively in Europe. While in Rome, he had received marked attention from the banker Tor- Ionia, who repeatedly invited him to dinner parties, the opera, and so on. He was at a loss to account for this until his last visit to the banker, when Torlonia, taking him aside, said, " Pray tell me, is it not true that you are a grandson of the great Washington ? "

Mr. Irving had in early life given offense to the descendants ,of old Dutch families in New York by the publication of " Knickerbocker's History of New York," in which he had presented some of their forbears in a humorous light. The solid fame which he acquired in later days effaced the remembrance of this old-time grievance, and in the days in which I had the pleasure of his ac- quaintance, he held an enviable position in the esteem and affection of the community.

He always remained a bachelor, owing, it was said, to an attachment, the object of which had

izS REMINISCENCES

been removed by death. I have even heard that the lady in question was a beautiful Jewess, the same one whom Walter Scott has depicted in his well-known Rebecca, This legend of the beautiful Jewess was current in my youth. A later authority informs us that Mr. Irving was really engaged to Matilda, daughter of Josiah Ogden Hoffman, a noted lawyer of New York, and that the death of the lady prevented the intended marriage from taking place. " He could never, to his dying day, endure to hear her name mentioned," it is said, "and, nearly thirty years after her death, the accidental discovery of a piece of her embroidery saddened him so that he could not speak."

CHAPTER III

NEW YORK SOCIETY

It has been explained that the continued pro- sperity of France under very varying forms of government is due to the fact that the municipal administration of the country is not affected by these changes, but continues much the same under king, emperor, and republican president.

I find something analogous to this in the per- severance of certain underlying tendencies in so- ciety despite the continual variations which diver- sify the surface of the domain of Fashion.

The earliest social function which I remember is a ball given by my father and mother when I must have been about four years of age. Quite late in the evening, I was taken out of bed and arrayed in an embroidered cambric slip. Some one tried to fasten a pink rosebud on the waist of my dress, but did not succeed to her mind. I was brought into our drawing-rooms, which had under- gone a surprising transformation. The floors were bare, and from the ceiling of either room was suspended a circle of wax lights and artificial flowers. The orchestra included a double bass.

30 REMINISCENCES

I surveyed the company of the dancers, tut soon curled myself up on a sofa, where one of the dowagers fed me with ice-cream. This entertain- ment took place at our house on Bowling Green, a neighborhood which has long been given up to business.

As a child, I remember silver forks as in use at my father's dinner parties. On ordinary occa- sions, we used the three-pronged steel fork which is now rarely seen. My father sometimes admon- ished my maternal grandmother not to put her knife into her mouth. In her youth every one used the knife in this way.

Meats were carefully roasted in what was called a tin kitchen, before an open fire. Desserts on state occasions consisted of pastry, wine jelly, blanc-mange, with pyramids of ice-cream. This last was always supplied by a French resident, Jean Contoit by-name, whose very modest garden long continued to be the principal place from which such a dainty could be obtained. It may have been M. Contoit who, speaking to a compatriot of his first days in America, said, " Imagine ! when I first came to this country, people cooked vegetables with water only, and the calf's head was thrown away ! "

Of the dress of that period I remember that ladies wore white cambric gowns, finely embroi- dered, in winter as well as in summer, and walked

NEW YORK SOCIETY 31

abroad in thin morocco slippers. Pelisses were worn in cold weather, often of some bright color, rose pink or blue. I have found in a family letter of that time the following description of a bride's toilet : " Miss E. was married in a frock of white merino, with a full suit of steel : comb, earrings, and so on." I once heard Mrs. William Astor, nee Armstrong, tell of a pair of brides, twin sisters, who appeared at church dressed in pelisses of white merino, trimmed with chinchilla, with caps of the same fur. They were much admired at the time.

Among the festivities of old New York, the observance of New Year's Day held an important place. In every house of any pretension, the ladies of the family sat in their drawing-rooms, arrayed in their best dresses, and the gentlemen of their acquaintance made short visits, during which wine and rich cakes were offered them. It was allowable to call as early as ten o'clock in the morning. The visitor sometimes did little more than appear and disappear, hastily muttering some- thing about "the compliments of the season." The gentlemen prided themselves upon the num- ber of visits paid, the ladies upon the number received. Girls at school vexed each other with emulative boasting : " We had fifty calls on New Year's Day." "Oh! but we had sixty-five." This perfunctory performance grew very tedious

32 REMINISCENCES

by the time the calling hours were ended, but apart from this, the day was one on which fami- lies were greeted by distant relatives rarely seen, while old friends met and revived their pleasant memories.

In our house, the rooms were all thrown open. Bright fires burned in the grates. My father, after his adoption of temperance principles, for- bade the offering of wine to visitors, and ordered it to be replaced by hot coffee. We were rather chagrined at this prohibition, but his will was law,

I recall a New Year's Day early in the thirties, on which a yellow chariot stopped before our door. A stout, elderly gentleman descended from it, and came in to pay his compliments to my father. This gentleman was John Jacob Astor, who was already known to be possessed of great wealth.

The pleasant custom just described was said to have originated with the Dutch settlers of the olden time. As the city grew in size, it became difficult and well-nigh impossible for gentlemen to make the necessary number of visits. Finally, a number of young men of the city took it upon themselves to call in squads at houses which they had no right to molest, consuming the refresh- ments provided for other guests, and making themselves disagreeable in various ways. This o£fense against good manners led to the discon-

NEW YORK SOCIETY 33

tinuance, by common consent, of the New Year's receptions.

A younger sister of my mother, named Louisa Corde Cutler, was one of the historic beauties of her time. She was a frequent and beloved guest at my father's house, but her marriage took place at my grandmother's residence in Jamaica Plain. The bridegroom was the only son of Judge Mc- Allister, of Savannah, Georgia. One of my aunt's bridesmaids. Miss Elizabeth Danf orth, a lady much esteemed in the older Boston, once gave me the following account of the marriage : —

" Yes, this is my beautiful bride. [My aunt was now about sixty years old.] Well do I recall the evening of her marriage. I was to be her brides- maid, you know, and when the time came, I was all dressed and ready. But the Dorchester coach was wanted for old ]\Iadam Blake's funeral, and as there was no other conveyance to be had, I was obliged to wait for it. The time seemed endless while I was walking up and down the hall in my bridesmaid's dress, my mother from time to time exhorting me to have patience, without much effect.

" At last the coach came, and in it I was driven to your grandmother's house in Jamaica Plain. As I entered the door I met the bridal party com- ing downstairs. Your mother said to me, ' Oh ! Elizabeth, we thought you were not coming.'

34 REMINISCENCES

After this all passed off pleasantly. Your grand- mother was dressed in a lilac silk gown of rather antiquated fashion, adorned with frills and furbe- lows which had passed out of date. Your mother, who had come on from New York for the cere- mony, said to her later in the evening, ' Dear mamma, you must make a present of that gown to some theatrical friend. It is only fit for the boards.' "

The officiating clergyman of the occasion was the Reverend Benjamin Clarke Cutler, brother of the bride. It was his first service of the kind, and the company were somewhat amused when, in absence or confusion of mind, he pronounced the nuptial blessing upon M and N, the letters which stand in the church ritual for the names of the parties contracting. Accordingly, at the wedding supper, the first toast was drunk " to the health and happiness of M and N," and responded to with much merriment.

I have further been told that the bride's elder sister, afterwards known as Mrs. Francis, danced " in stocking-feet " with my father's elder brother, this having been the ancient rule when the younger children were married before the older ones.

In spite of the costume which met with her daughter's disapproval, my maternal grandmother was not indifferent to dress. She used to lament

NEW YORK SOCIETY 35

the ugliness of modern fashions, and to extol those of her youth, in which she was one of the degantes of Southern society. She remembered with, pleasure that General Washington once crossed a ball-room to speak with her. This was probably when she was the wife or widow ofi Colonel Heme, to whom she was married at the age of fourteen (when her dolls, she told me, were taken away from her), and whose death occurred before she had attained legal majority. She had received a good musical education for those times, and Colonel Perkins of Boston once told me that he remembered her as a fascinating young widow with a lovely voice. It must have been during her visit to Boston that she met my grandfather Cutler, who straightway fell in love with and mar- ried her. When past her sixtieth year she would sometimes sing an old-time duet with my father. She had a great love of good literature. Here is what she told me about the fashions of her youth : " We wore our hair short, and creped all over in short curls, which were kept in place by a span- gled ribbon, bound around the head. Powder was universally worn. The Marechale powder was most becoming to the complexion, having a slight yellowish tinge. We wore trains, but had a set of cords by which we pulled them up in festoons, when we went to dance. Brocades were much worn. I wanted one, but could not find one at

36 REMINISCENCES

the time, so I embroidered a pretty yellow silk dress of mine, and made a brocade of it."

She once mentioned ha\dng known, in days long distant, of a company of ladies who had banded themselves together for some new departure of a patriotic intent, and who had waited upon General Washington in a body. I have since ascertained that they called themselves " Daughters of Lib- erty." A kindred association had been formed of " Sons of Liberty." Perhaps these ladies were of the mind of Mrs. John Adams, who, when con- gratulating her husband upon the liberties assured to American men by the then new Constitution of the United States, thought it " a pity that the legislators had not also done something for the ladies."

Among the familiar figures of my early life is that of Dr. John Wakefield Francis. I wish it were in my power to give any adequate descrip- tion of this remarkable man, who was certainly one of the worthies of his time. As already said, he was my uncle by marriage, and for many years a resident in my father's house. He was of Ger- man origin, florid in complexion and mercurial in temperament. His fine head was crowned with an abundance of silken curly hair. He always wore gold-bowed glasses, being very near-sighted, was a born humorist, and delighted in jest and hyperbole. He was an omnivorous reader, and

NEW YORK SOCIETY 37

was so constituted that four hours of sleep nightly- sufficed to keep him in health. This was fortu- nate for him, as he had an extensive practice, and was liable to be called out at all hours of the night. A candle always stood on a table beside his pillow, and with it a pile of books and papers, which he habitually perused long before the com- ing of daylight. It so happened, however, that he waked one morning at about four of the clock, and saw his wife, \\Tapped in shawls, sitting near the fire, reading something by candlelight. The following conversation ensued : —

" Eliza, what book is that you are reading } "

" 'Uncle Tom's Cabin,' dear."

" Is it ? I don't need to know anything more about it — it must be the greatest book of the age."

His humor was extravagant. I once heard him exclaim, " How brilliant is the light which streams through the fissure of a cracked brain ! " Again he spoke of " a fellow who could n't go straight in a ropewalk." His anecdotes of things encountered in the exercise of his profession were most amus- ing.

He found us seated in the drawing-room, one evening, to receive a visit from a very shy profes- sor of Brown University. The doctor, sur\'eying the group, seized this poor man, lifted him from the floor, and carried him round the circle, to

38 REMINISCENCES

express his pleasure at seeing an old friend. The countenance of the guest meanwhile showed an agony of embarrassment and terror.

The doctor was very temperate in everything except tea, which he drank in the green variety, in strong and copious libations. Indeed, he had no need of wine or other alcoholic stimulants, his temperament being almost incandescent. Over- flowing as he was with geniality, he yet accommo- dated himself easily to the requirements of a sick room, and showed himself tender, vigilant, and most sympathetic. He attended many people who could not, and some who would not, pay for his visits. One of these last, having been brought by him through an attack of cholera, was so much impressed with the kindness and skill of the doc- tor that he at once and for the first time sent him a check in recognition of services that money could not repay.

After many years of residence with us, my un- cle and aunt Francis removed, first to lodgings, and later to a house of their own. Here my aunt busied herself much with the needs of rich and poor. Ladies often came to her seeking good servants, her recommendation being considered an all-sufificient security. Women out of place came to her seeking employment, which she often found for them. These acts of kindness, often involving a considerable expenditure of time and

NEW YORK SOCIETY 39

trouble, the dear lady performed with no thought of recompense other than the assurance that she had been helpful to those who needed her assist- ance in manifold ways. In her new abode Auntie lived with careful economy, dispensing her simple hospitality with a generous hand. She was famous among her friends for delicious coffee and for excellent tea, which she always made herself, on the table.

She sometimes invited friends for an evening party, but made it a point to invite those who were not her favorites for a separate occasion, not wishing to dilute her enjoyment of the chosen few, and, on the other hand, desiring not to hurt the feelings of any of her acquaintance by wholly leaving them out. When Edgar Allan Poe first became known in New York, Dr. Francis invited him to the house. It was on one of Auntie's good evenings, and her room was filled with company. The poet arrived just at a moment when the doctor was obliged to answer the call of a patient. He accordingly opened the parlor door, and pushed Mr. Poe into the room, saying, " Eliza, my dear, the Raven!" after which he immediately withdrew. Auntie had not heard of the poem, and was entirely at a loss to understand this in- troduction of the new-comer.

It was always a pleasure to welcome distin- guished strangers to New York. Mrs. Jameson's

40 REMINISCENCES

visit to the United States, in the year 1835, gave me the opportunity of making acquaintance with that very accomplished lady and author. I was then a girl of sixteen summers, but I had read the "Diary of an Ennuyee," which first brought Mrs. Jameson into literary prominence. I read after- wards with avidity the two later volumes in which she gives so good an account of modern art work in Europe. In these she speaks with enthusiasm of certain frescoes in Munich which I was sorry, many years later, to be obliged to consider less beautiful than her description of them would have warranted one in believing. When I perused these works, having myself no practical know- ledge of art, their graphic style seemed to give me clear vision of the things described. The beautiful Pinakothek and Glyptothek of Munich became to me as if I actually saw them, and when it was my good fortune to visit them I seemed, especially in the case of the marbles, to meet with old friends. Mrs, Jameson's connoisseurship was not limited to pictorial and sculptural art. Of music also she was passionately fond. In the book just spoken of she describes an evening passed with the composer Wieck in his German home. In this she speaks of his daughter Clara, and of her lover, young Schumann. Clara Wieck, afterwards Madame Schumann, became well known in Europe as a pianist of eminence, and of Schu-

NEW YORK SOCIETY 41

mann as a composer it needs not now to speak. There were various legends regarding I\Irs. Jame- son's private history. It was said that her hus- band, marr}'ing her against his will, parted from her at the church door, and thereafter left Eng- land for Canada, where he was residing at the time of her visit. I first met her at an evening party at the house of a friend. I was invited to make some music, and sang, among other things, a brilliant bravura air from " Semiramide." When I would have left the piano, Mrs. Jameson came to me and said, '^ Altra cosa, my dear." My voice had been cultivated with care, and though not of great power was considered pleasing in quality, and was certainly very flexible. I met Mrs. Jame- son at several other entertainments devised in her honor. She was of middle height, her hair red blond in color. Her face was not handsome, but sensitive and sympathetic in expression. The elegant dames of New York were somewhat scan- dalized at her want of taste in dress. I actually heard one of them say, " How like the devil she does look ! "

After a winter passed in Canada, Mrs. Jameson again visited New York, on her way to England. She called upon me one day with a friend, and asked to see my father's pictures. Two of these, portraits of Charles First and his queen, were supposed to be by Vandyke. Mrs. Jameson

42 REMINISCENCES

doubted this. She spoke of her intimacy with the celebrated Mrs. Somerville, and said, " I think of her as a dear little woman who is very fond of drawing." When I went to return her visit, I found her engaged in earnest conversation with a son of Sir James Mackintosh. When he had taken leave, she said to me, " Mr. Mackintosh and I were almost at daggers drawing." So far as I could learn, their dispute related to democratic forms of government, and the society therefrom resulting, which he viewed with favor and she with bitter dislike. I inquired about her winter in Canada. She replied, " As the Irishman said, I had everything that a pig could want." A vol- ume from her hand appeared soon after this time, entitled "Winter Studies and Summer Rambles in Canada." Her work on "Sacred and Legend- ary Art" and her "Legends of the Madonna" were published some years later.

CHAPTER IV

HOME LIFE : MY FATHER

I LEFT school at the age of sixteen, and began thereafter to study in good earnest. Until that time a certain over-romantic and imaginative turn of mind had interfered much with the progress of my studies. I indulged in day-dreams which appeared to me far higher in tone than the hum- drum of my school recitations. When these were at an end, I began to feel the necessity of more strenuous application, and at once arranged for myself hours of study, relieved by the practice of vocal and instrumental music.

At this juncture, a much esteemed friend of my father came to pass some months with us. This was Joseph Green Cogswell, founder and principal of Round Hill School, at which my three brothers had been among his pupils. The school, a famous one in its day, was now finally closed. Our new guest was an accomplished lin- guist, and possessed an admirable power of im- parting knowledge. With his aid, I resumed the German studies which I had already begun, but in which I had made but little progress. Under

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his tuition, I soon found myself able to read with ease the masterpieces of Goethe and Schiller.

Rev. Leonard Woods, son of a well-known pastor of that name, was a familiar guest at my father's house. He took some interest in my studies, and at length proposed that I should become a contributor to the "Theological Re- view," of which he was editor at that time. I undertook to furnish a review of Lamartine's "Jocelyn," which had recently appeared. When I had done my best with this. Dr. Cogswell went over the pages with me very carefully, pointing out defects of style and arrangement. The paper attracted a good deal of attention, and some com- ments on it gave occasion to the admonition which my dear uncle thought fit to administer to me, as already mentioned.

The house of my young ladyhood (I use this term, as it was the one in use at the time of which I write) was situated at the corner of Bond Street and Broadway. When my father built it, the fashion of the city had not proceeded so far up town. The model of the house was a noble one. Three spacious rooms and a small study occupied the first floor. These were fur- nished with curtains of blue, yellow, and red silk. The red room was that in which we took our meals. The blue room was the one in which we received visits, and passed the evenings. The

HOME LIFE: MY FATHER 45

yellow room was thrown open only on high occa- sions, but my desk and grand piano were placed in it, and I was allowed to occupy it at will. This and the blue room were adorned by beautiful sculptured mantelpieces, the work of Thomas Crawford, afterwards known as a sculptor of great merit. Many years after this time he became the husband of the sister next me in age, and the father of F. Marion Crawford, the now celebrated novelist.

Our family was patriarchal in its dimensions, including my aunt and uncle Francis, whose chil- dren were all bom in my father's house, and were very dear to him. My maternal grandmother also passed much time with us. My two younger brothers, Henry and Marion, were at home with us after a term of years at Round Hill School. My eldest brother, Samuel (afterwards the Sam. Ward of the Lobby), a most accomplished and agreeable young man, had recently returned from Europe, bringing with him a fine library. My father, having already added to his large house a spacious art gallery, now built a study, whose walls were entirely occupied by my brother's books. I had free access to these, and did not neglect to profit by it.

From what I have just said, it may rightly be inferred that my father was a man of fine tastes, inclined to generous and even lavish expenditure.

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He desired to give us the best educational oppor- tunities, the best and most expensive masters. He filled his art gallery with the finest pictures that money could command in the New York of that day. He gave largely to public undertak- ings, was one of the founders of the New York University, and was one of the foremost promo- ters of church building in the then distant West. He demurred only at expenses connected with dress and fashionable entertainment, for he al- ways disliked and distrusted the great world. My dear eldest brother held many arguments with him on this theme. He saw, as we did, that our father was disposed to ignore the value of ordinary social intercourse. On one occasion the dispute between them became quite animated.

"Sir," said my brother, "you do not keep in view the importance of the social tie."

" The social what ? " asked my father.

"The social tie, sir."

" I make small account of that," said the elder gentleman.

" I will die in defense of it ! " impetuously re- joined the younger. My father was so much amused at this sally that he spoke of it to an intimate friend : " He will die in defense of the social tie, indeed ! "

Our way of living was simple. The table was abundant, but not with the richest food. For

SAMUEL WARD (Mrs. Howe's father) From a mhtiatiire hy A n>te Hall

HOME LIFE: MY FATHER 47

many years, as I have said, no alcoholic stimulant appeared on it. My father gave away by dozens the bottles of costly wine stored in his cellar, but neither tasted their contents nor allowed us to do so. He was for a great part of his life a martyr to rheumatic gout, and a witty friend of his once said : " Ward, it must be the poor man's gout that you have, as you drink only water."

We breakfasted at eight in winter, at half past seven in summer. My father read prayers before breakfast and before bedtime. If my brothers lingered over the morning meal, he would come in, hatted and booted for the day, and would say : " Young gentlemen, I am glad that you can afford to take life so easily. I am old and must work for my living," a speech which usually broke up our morning coterie. Dinner was served at four o'clock, a light lunch abbreviating the fast for those at home. At half past seven we sat down to tea, a meal of which toast, preserves, and cake formed the staple. In the evening we usually sat together with books and needlework, often with an interlude of music. An occasional lec- ture, concert, or evening party varied this routine. My brothers went much into fashionable society, but my own participation in its doings came only after my father's death, and after the two years' mourning which, according to the usage of those days, followed it.

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My father retained the Puritan feeling with regard to Saturday evening. He would remark that it was not a proper evening for company, regarding it as a time of preparation for the exer- cises of the day following, the order of which was very strict. We were indeed indulged on Sunday morning with coffee and mufhns at break- fast, but, besides the morning and afternoon ser- vices at church, we young folks were expected to attend the two meetings of the Sunday-school. We were supposed to read only Sunday books, and I must here acknowledge my indebtedness to Mrs. Sherwood, an English writer now almost forgotten, whose religious stories and romances were supposed to come under this head. In the evening, we sang hymns, and sometimes received a quiet visitor.

My readers, if I have any, may ask whether this restricted routine satisfied my mind, and whether I was at all sensible of the privileges which I really enjoyed, or ought to have en- joyed. I must answer that, after my school-days, I greatly coveted an enlargement of intercourse with the world. I did not desire to be counted among " fashionables," but I did aspire to much greater freedom of association than was allowed me. I lived, indeed, much in my books, and my sphere of thought was a good deal enlarged by the foreign literatures, German, French, and Ital-

HOME LIFE: MY FATHER 49

ian, with which I became familiar. Yet I seemed to myself like a young damsel of olden time, shut up within an enchanted castle. And I must say that my dear father, with all his noble generosity and overweening affection, sometimes appeared to me as my jailer.

My brother's return from Europe and subse- quent marriage opened the door a little for me. It was through his intervention that Mr. Long- fellow first visited us, to become a valued and lasting friend. Through him in turn we became acquainted with Professor Felton, Charles Sum- ner, and Dr. Howe. My brother was very fond of music, of which he had heard the best in Paris and in Germany. He often arranged musical parties at our house, at which trios of Beethoven, Mozart, and Schubert were given. His wit, so- cial talent, and literary taste opened a new world to me, and enabled me to share some of the best results of his long residence in Europe.

My father's jealous care of us was by no means the result of a disposition tending to social ex- clusiveness. It proceeded, on the contrary, from an over-anxiety as to the moral and religious influences to which his children might become subjected. His ideas of propriety were very strict. He was, moreover, not only a strenuous Protestant, but also an ardent "Evangelical," or Low Churchman, holding the Calvinistic views

50 REMINISCENCES

which then characterized that portion of the American Episcopal church. I remember that he once spoke to me of the anguish he had felt at the death of his own father, of the orthodoxy of whose religious opinions he had had no sufficient assurance. My grandfather, indeed, was sup- posed, in the family, to be of a rather skeptical and philosophizing turn of mind. He fell a victim to the first visitation of the cholera in 1832.

Despite a certain austerity of character, my father was much beloved and honored in the business world. He did much to give to the firm of Prime, Ward and King the high position which it attained and retained during his lifetime. He told me once that when he first entered the office, he found it, like many others, a place where gos- sip circulated freely. He determined to put an end to this, and did so. Among the foreign cor- respondents of his firm were the Barings of Lon- don, and Hottinguer et Cie. of Paris.

In the great financial troubles which followed Andrew Jackson's refusal to renew the charter of the Bank of the United States, several States became bankrupt, and repudiated the obligations incurred by their bonds, to the great indignation of business people in both hemispheres. The State of New York was at one time on the verge of pursuing this course, which my father strenu- ously opposed. He called meeting after meeting,

HOME LIFE: MY FATHER 51

and was unwearied in his efforts to induce the financiers of the State to hold out. When this appeared well-nigh impossible, he undertook that his firm should negotiate with English correspond- ents a loan to carry the State over the period of doubt and difficulty. This he was able to effect. My eldest brother came home one day and said to me : —

"As I walked up from Wall Street to-day, I saw a dray loaded with kegs on which were in- scribed the letters, 'P. W. & K.' Those kegs contained the gold just sent to the firm from England to help our State through this crisis."

My father once gave me some account of his early experiences in Wall Street. He had been sent, almost a boy, to New York, to try his for- tune. His connection with Block Island families through his grandmother, Catharine Ray Greene, had probably aided in securing for him a clerk's place in the banking house of Prime and Sands, afterwards Prime, Ward and King. He soon as- certained that the Spanish dollars brought to the port by foreign trading vessels could be sold in Wall Street at a profit. He accordingly em- ployed his leisure hours in the purchase of these coins, which he carried to Wall Street and there sold. This was the beginning of his fortune.

A work published a score or more of years since, entitled "The Merchant Princes of Wall

52 REMINISCENCES

Street," concluded some account of my father by the statement that he died without fortune. This was far from true. His death came indeed at a very critical moment, when, having made extensive investments in real estate, his skill was requisite to carry this extremely valuable pro- perty over a time of great financial disturbance. His brother, our uncle, who became the guardian of our interests, was familiar with the stock mar- ket, but little versed in real estate transactions. By untimely sales, much of my father's valuable estate was scattered ; yet it gave to each of his six children a fair inheritance for that time ; for the millionaire fever did not break out until long afterwards.

The death of this dear and noble parent took place when I was a little more than twenty years of age. Six months later I attained the period of legal responsibility, but before this a new sense of the import of life had begun to alter the current of my thoughts. With my father's death came to me a sense of my want of appreciation of his great kindness, and of my ingratitude for the many comforts and advantages which his affection had secured to me. He had given me the most de- lightful home, the most careful training, the best masters and books. He had even, as I have said, built a picture gallery for my especial instruction and enjoyment. All this I had taken, as a matter

HOME LIFE: MY FATHER 53

of course, and as my natural right. He had done his best to keep me out of frivolous society, and had been extremely strict about the visits of young men to the house. Once, when I expos- tulated with him upon these points, he told me that he had early recognized in me a temperament and imagination over-sensitive to impressions from without, and that his wish had been to guard me from exciting influences until I should appear to him fully able to guard and guide myself. It was hardly to be expected that a girl in her teens, or just out of them, should acquiesce in this restric- tive guardianship, tender and benevolent as was its intention. My little acts of rebellion were met with some severity, but I now recall my father's admonitions as

" Soft rebukes with blessings ended."

I cannot, even now, bear to dwell upon the desolate hush which fell upon our house when its stately head lay, silent and cold, in the midst of weeping friends and children. Six of us were made orphans, three sons and three daughters. We had had our little disagreements and dissen- sions, but the blow which now fell upon us drew us together with the bond of a common sorrow. My eldest brother had recently gone to reside in a house of his own. The second one, Henry by name, became at this time my great intimate. He was a high-strung youth, very chivalrous in

54 REMINISCENCES

disposition, full of fun and humor, but with a deep vein of thought. He was already betrothed to one whom I held dear, and I looked forward to many years brightened by his happiness, but alas ! an attack of typhoid fever took him from us in the "bloom of his youth. I was with him day and night during his illness, and when he closed his eyes, I would gladly, oh, so gladly, have died with him ! The great anguish of this loss told heavily upon me, and I remember the time as one with- out light or comfort. I sought these indeed. A great religious revival was going on in New York, and a zealous young friend persuaded me to at- tend some of the meetings held in a neighboring church. I had never taken very seriously the doctrines of the religious body in which I had been reared. They now came home to me with terrible force, and a season of depression and melancholy followed, during which I remained in a measure cut off from the wholesome influences which reconcile us to life, even when it must be embittered by a sense of irreparable loss.

At the time of my father's death, my dear bachelor uncle John, already mentioned, left his own house and came to live with us. When our paternal mansion was sold, some years later, he re- moved with us to the house of my eldest brother, who was already a widower. After my marriage my uncle again occupied a house of his own, in

HOME LIFE: MY FATHER 55

which for many years he made us all at home, even with our later incumbrances of children and nurses. He was, in short, the best and kindest of uncles. In business he was more adventurous than his rather deliberate manner would have led one to suppose. It was said that, in the course of his life, he had made and lost several fortunes. In the end he left a very fair estate, which was divided among the several sets of his nieces and nephews.

Long before this he had become one of the worthies of Wall Street, and was universally spoken of as " Uncle John." Shortly after his retirement from active business, the Board of Brokers of New York requested him to sit to A. H. Wenzler for a portrait, to be hung in their place of meeting. The portrait was executed with entire success. I ought to mention in this connection that the directors of the New York Bank of Com- merce, of which my father was the founder and first president, ordered a portrait of him from the well-known artist, Huntington.

CHAPTER V

MY STUDIES

As a love of study has been a leading influence in my life, I will here employ a little time, at the risk of some repetition, in tracing the way in which my thoughts had mostly tended up to the period when, after two years of deep depression, I suddenly turned to practical life with an eager desire to profit by its opportunities.

From early days my dear mother noticed in me an introspective tendency, which led her to com- plain that when I went with her to friends' houses I appeared dreamy and little concerned with what was going on around me. My early edu- cation, received at home, interested me more than most of my school work. While one person de- voted time and attention to me, I repaid the effort to my best ability. In the classes of my school- days, the contact between teacher and pupil was less immediate. I shall always remember with pleasure Mrs. B.'s " Conversations " on Chemis- try, which I studied with great pleasure, albeit that I never saw one of the experiments therein described. I remember that Paley's " Evidences

MY STUDIES 57

of Christianity" interested me more than his "Philosophy," and that Blair's "Rhetoric," with its many quotations from the poets, was a delight to me. As I have before said, I was not inapt at algebra and geometry, but was too indolent to acquire any mastery in mathematics. The French language was somehow burnt into my mind by a cruel French teacher, who made my lessons as un- pleasant as possible. My fear of him was so great that I really exerted myself seriously to mxeet his requirements. I have profited in later life by his severity, having been able not only to speak French fluently but also to write it with ease.

I was fourteen years of age when I besought my father to allow me to have some lessons in Italian. These were given me by Professor Lo- renzo Da Ponte, son of the veteran of whom I have already spoken. With him I read the dra- mas of Metastasio and of Alfieri.

Through all these years there went with me the vision of some great work or works which I myself should give to the world I should write the novel or play of the age. This, I need not say, I never did. I made indeed some progress in a drama founded upon Scott's novel of "Kenil- worth," but presently relinquished this to begin a play suggested by Gibbon's account of the fall of Constantinople. Such successes as I did manage to achieve were in quite a different line, that of

58 REMINISCENCES

lyric poetry. A beloved music-master, Daniel Schlesinger, falling ill and dying, I attended his funeral and wrote some stanzas descriptive of the scene, which were printed in various papers, at- tracting some notice. I set them to music of my own, and sang them often, to the accompaniment of a guitar.

Although the reading of Byron was spar- ingly conceded to us, and that of Shelley forbid- den, the morbid discontent which characterized these poets made itself felt in our community as well as in England. Here, as elsewhere, it brought into fashion a certain romantic melan- choly. It is true that at school we read Cow- per's " Task," and did our parsing on Milton's " Paradise Lost," but what were these in compar- ison with : —

" The cold in clime are cold in blood,"

or: —

" I loved her, Father, nay, adored."

After my brother's return from Europe, I read such works of George Sand and Balzac as he would allow me to choose from his library. Of the two writers, George Sand appeared to me by far the superior, though I then knew of her works only " Les Sept Cordes de la Lyre," " Spiri- dion," "Jacques," and "Andr^." It was at least ten years after this time that " Consuelo " re- vealed to the world the real George Sand, and

MY STUDIES 59

thereby made her peace with the society which she had defied and scandalized. Of my German studies I have already made mention. I began them with a class of ladies under the tuition of Dr. Nordheimer. But it was vnth the later aid of Dr. Cogswell that I really mastered the diffi- culties of the language. It was while I was thus engaged that my eldest brother returned from Germany. In conversing with him, I acquired the use of colloquial German. Having, as I have said, the command of his fine library, I w^as soon deep in Goethe's " Faust " and " Wilhelm Meis- ter," reading also the works of Jean Paul, Mat- thias Claudius, and Herder.

Thus was a new influence introduced into the life of one who had been brought up after the strictest rule of New England Puritanism. I de- rived from these studies a sense of intellectual freedom so new to me that it was halt delightful, half alarming. My father undertook one day to read an English translation of " Faust." He pre- sently came to me and said, —

" My daughter, I hope that you have not read this wicked book ! "

I must say, even after an inter\'al of sLxty years, that I do not consider " Wilhelm Meister " altogether good reading for the youth of our country. Its great author introduces into his re- cital scenes and personages calculated to awaken

6o REMINISCENCES

Strange discords in a mind ignorant of any greater wrong than the small sins of a well-ordered house- hold. Although disapproving greatly of Goethe, my father took a certain pride in my literary accomplishments, and was much pleased, I think, at the commendation which followed some of my early efforts. One of these, a brief essay on the minor poems of Goethe and Schiller, was pub- lished in the " New York Review," perhaps in 1 848, and was spoken of in the " North Amer- ican" of that time as "a charming paper, said to have been written by a lady."

I have already said that a vision of some impor- tant literary work which I should accomplish was present with me in my early life, and had much to do with habits of study acquired by me in youth, and never wholly relinquished. At this late day, I find it difficult to account for a sense of literary responsibility which never left me, and which I must consider to have formed a part of my spiritual make-up. My earliest efforts in prose, two review articles, were probably more remarked at the time of their publication than their merit would have warranted. But women writers were by no means as numerous sLxty years ago as they are to-day. Neither was it possible for a girl student in those days to find that help and guidance toward a literary career which may easily be commanded to-day.

MY STUDIES 6i

The death, within one year, of my father and most dearly loved brother touched within me a deeper train of thought than I had yet known. The anguish which I then experienced sought relief in expression, and took form in a small col- lection of poems, which Margaret Fuller urged me to publish, but which have never seen the light, and never will.

Among the friends who frequented my father's house was the Rev. Francis L. Hawkes, long the pastor of a very prominent and fashionable Epis- copal church in New York. I remember that on one occasion he began to abuse my Germans in good earnest for their irreligion and infidelity, of which I, indeed, knew nothing. I inquired whether he had read any of the authors whom he so un- sparingly condemned. He was forced to confess that he had not, but presently turned upon me, quite indignant that I should have asked such a question. I recall another occasion on which the anti-slavery agitation was spoken of. Dr. Hawkes condemned it very severely, and said : " If I could get hold of one of those men who are trying to stir up the slaves of the South to cut their mas- ters' throats, I would hang him to that lamp-post." An uncle of mine who was present said : " Doctor, I honor you ! " but I felt much offended at the doctor's violence. With these exceptions his society was a welcome addition to our family cir-

62 REMINISCENCES

cle. He was a man of genial temperament and commanding character, widely read in English lit- erature, and esteemed very eloquent as a preacher. I remember moments in which the enlargement of my horizon of thought and of faith became strongly sensible to me, in the quiet of my read- ing, in my own room. A certain essay in the " Wandsbecker Bote" of Matthias Claudius ends thus : " And is he not also the God of the Japa- nese ? " Foolish as it may appear, it had never struck me before that the God whom I had been taught to worship was the God of any peoples out- side the limits of Judaism and Christendom. The suggestion shocked me at first, but, later on, gave me much satisfaction. Another such moment I recall when, having carefully read " Paradise Lost " to the very end, I saw presented before me the picture of an eternal evil, of Satan and his minis- ters subjugated indeed by God, but not conquered, and able to maintain against Him an opposition as eternal as his goodness. This appeared to me impossible, and I threw away, once and forever, the thought of the terrible hell which till then had always formed part of my belief. In its place, I cherished the persuasion that the victory of good- ness must consist in making everything good, and that Satan himself could have no shield strong enough to resist permanently the divine power of the divine spirit.

MY STUDIES 63

This was a great emancipation for me, and I soon welcomed with joy every evidence in litera- ture which tended to show that religion has never been confined to the experience of a particular race or nation, but has shown itself at all times, and under every variety of form, as a seeking for the divine and a reverence for the things unseen.

So much for study !

CHAPTER VI

SAMUEL WARD AND THE ASTORS

My first peep at the great world in grown-up days was at a dinner party given by a daughter of General Armstrong, married to the eldest son of the first John Jacob Astor. Mrs. Astor was a person of very elegant taste. She had received a part of her education in Paris, at the time when her father represented our government at the Court of France. Her notions of propriety in dress were very strict. According to these, jewels were not to be worn in the daytime. Glaring col- ors and striking contrasts were to be avoided. Much that is in favor to-day would have been ruled out by her as inadmissible. At the dinner of which I speak the ladies were in evening dress, which in those days did not transcend modest limits. One very pretty married lady wore a white turban, which was much admired. Another lady was adorned with a coronet of fine stone cameos, — which has recently been presented to the Boston Art Museum by a surviving member of her family.

My head was dressed for this occasion by Mar-

SAMUEL WARD AND THE ASTORS 65

tel, a dainty half Spanish or French octoroon, endowed with exquisite taste, a ready wit, and a saucy tongue. He was the Figaro of the time, and his droll sayings were often quoted among his lady customers. The hair was then worn low at the back of the head, woven into elaborate braids and darkened with French pomade, while an ornament called a f&oiiUre was usually worn upon the forehead or just above it. This was sometimes a string of pearls with a diamond star in the middle, oftener a gold chain or band orna- mented with a jewel. The fashion, while it pre- vailed, was so general that evening dress was scarcely considered complete without it.

Not long after the dinner party just mentioned, my eldest brother married the eldest daughter of the Astor family. I officiated at the wedding as first bridesmaid, a sister of the bride and one of my own completing the number. The bride wore a dress of rich white silk, and was coiifed with a scarf of some precious lace, in lieu of a veil. On her forehead shone a diamond star, the gift of her grandfather, Mr. John Jacob Astor. The bridesmaids' dresses were of white moire, then a material of the newest fashion. I had begged my father to give me a fe'ronihe for this occasion, and he had presented me with a very pretty string of pearls, having a pearl pansy and drop in the centre. This fashion, I afterwards

66 REMINISCENCES

learned, was very ill suited to the contour of my face. At the time, however, I had the comfort of supposing that I looked uncommonly well. The ceremony took place in the evening at the house of the bride's parents. A very elaborate supper was afterwards served, at which the first groomsman proposed the health of the bride and groom, which was drunk without response. A wedding journey was not a sme qua non in those days, but a wedding reception was usual. In this instance it took the form of a brilliant ball, every guest being in turn presented to the bride. On the floor of the ball-room a floral design had been traced in colored chalks. The evening was at its height when my father gravely admonished me that it was time to go home. Paternal au- thority was without appeal in those days.

In my character of bridesmaid, I was allowed to attend one or two of the entertainments given in honor of this marriage. The gayeties of New York were then limited to balls, dinners, and evening parties. The afternoon tea was not in- vented until a much later period. One or two extra ^Ugantes received on stated afternoons. My dear uncle John, taking up a card left for me, with the inscription, " Mrs. S. at home on Thurs- day afternoon," remarked, " At home on Thursday afternoon ? I am glad to learn that she is so domestic." This lady, who was a leading person-

SAMUEL WARD AND THE ASTORS 67

age in the social world, used also to receive privi- leged friends on one evening in the week, giving only a cup of chocolate and some cakes or bis- cuits.

My eldest brother, Samuel Ward, the fourth of the same name, has been so well known, both in public and in private life, that my reminiscences would not be complete without some special characterization of him. In my childhood he was my ideal and my idol. A handsome youth, quick of wit and tender of heart, brilliant in promise, and with a great and versatile power of work in him, I doubt whether Round Hill School ever turned out a more remarkable pupil.

From Round Hill my brother passed to Colum- bia College, graduating therefrom after a four years' course. His mathematical attainments were considered remarkable, and my father, desiring to give him the best opportunity of extending his studies, sent him to Europe before he had attained his majority, with a letter of credit whose amount the banker, Hottinguer, thought it best not to im- part to the young student, so much did he con- sider it beyond his needs.

My brother's career in Europe, where he spent some years at this time, was not altogether in ac- cordance with the promise of his early devotion to mathematical science. He saw much of Ger- man student life, and studied enough to obtain a

68 REMINISCENCES

degree from the University of Tubingen, Before his departure from America he had written two articles for the " North American Review." One of these was on Locke's " Essay on the Human Understanding," the other on Euler's works. In Paris, he became the intimate friend of the famous critic, Jules Janin, and made acquaintance with other literary men of the time. He returned to America in 1835, speaking French like a Parisian and German as fluently as if that had been his native language. He had purchased a great part of the scientific library of La Grange, and an admirable collection of French and German works. At this period, he desired to make literature, rather than science, the leading pursuit of his life. He devoted much time to the composition of a work descriptive of Paris. He wrote many chapters of this in French, and I was proud to be allowed to render them into English. He brought into the Puritanic limits of our family circle a flavor of European life and culture which greatly delighted me.

My brother had spent a great deal of money while in Europe, and my father, who had done so much for him, began to think it time that this dar- ling of fortune should take steps to earn his own support. The easiest way for him to accomplish this was to accept a post in the banking house of Prime, Ward and King, with the prospect of

SAMUEL WARD Jr. From a faint hig hy Baron Vogel

SAMUEL WARD AND THE ASTORS 69

partnership later. He decided, with some re- luctance, to pursue this course. His first day's performance at the office was so faulty that my father, on reviewing it, exclaimed, " You will play the very devil with the check-book, sir, if you use it in this way." He, however, applied himself diligently to his office work, and soon mastered its difficulties, but without developing a taste for business pursuits. Literature was still his ruling passion, and he devoted such leisure as he could command to study and to the composition of several lectures, which he delivered with some success.

I have already spoken of his marriage with a daughter of Mr. William B. Astor. This union, a very happy one, was not of long duration. After a few years of married life, he was left a widower, with a daughter still in infancy, who became the especial charge and darling of my sister Louisa.

After an interval of some years, my brother married Miss Grimes of New Orleans, a lady of uncommon beauty and talent. In the mean time we had to mourn the death of our beloved father, whose sober judgment and strong will had exer- cised a most salutary influence upon my brother's sanguine temperament. He now became anxious to increase his income ; and this anxiety led him to embark in various speculations, which were not always fortunate. He left the firm of Prime,

70 REMINISCENCES

Ward and King, and was one of the first who went to California after its cession to the United States.

The Indians were then in near proximity to San Francisco, and Uncle Sam, as he came to be called, went much among them, and became so well versed in their diverse dialects as to be able to act as interpreter between tribes unacquainted with each other's forms of speech. He once wrote out and sent me some tenses of an Indian verb which had impressed him with its resem- blance to corresponding parts of the Greek lan- guage. I showed this to Theodore Parker, who considered it remarkable, and at once caused my brother to be elected as a member of some learned association devoted to philological research.

An anecdote of his experience with the Indians may be briefly narrated here. He had been pass- ing some time at a mining camp in the neighbor- hood of an Indian settlement, and had entered into friendly relations with the principal chief of the tribe. Thinking that a trip to San Francisco would greatly amuse this noble savage, he with some difficulty persuaded the elders of the tribe to allow their leader to accompany him to the city, where they had no sooner landed than the chief slipped out of sight and could not be found. Several days passed without any news of him, although advertisements were soon posted and a

SAMUEL WARD AND THE ASTORS 71

liberal reward offered to any one who should dis- cover his whereabouts. My brother and his party were finally obliged to return to camp without him. This they did very unwillingly, knowing that the chief's prolonged absence would arouse the suspicions of his followers that he had met with ill-treatment.

And so indeed it proved. Soon after their arrival at the settlement they were told that the Indians were becoming much excited, and that a council and war-dance were in preparation. The whites, a handful of men, armed themselves, and were preparing to sell their lives dearly, when suddenly the chief himself appeared among them. The Indians were pacified and the whites were overjoyed. The fugitive gave the following ex- planation of his strange conduct. He had been much alarmed by the noises heard on board the steamer, which he seemed to have mistaken for a living creature. " He must be sick, he groans so ! " was his expression. Resolving that he would not return by that means of conveyance, he had found for himself a hiding-place on a hill commanding a view of the harbor. From this height of vantage he was able to observe the movements of the party which had brought him to the city. When he saw the men reembark on the steamer, he felt himself secure from recap- ture, and managed to steal a horse and to find

72 REMINISCENCES

his way back to his own people. If his misunder- standing of the nature of the boat should seem improbable, we must remember the Highlander who picked up a watch on some battlefield, and the next day sold it for a trifle, averring that " the creature had died in the night."

During the period of the civil war, my brother resided in Washington, where his social gifts were highly valued. His sympathies were with the Democratic party, but his friendships went far beyond the limits of partisanship. He had an unusual power of reconciling people who were at variance with each other, and the dinners at which he presided furnished occasions to bring face to face political opponents accustomed to avoid each other, but unable to resist the bon- homie which sought to make them better friends. He became known as King of the Lobby, but much more as the prince of entertainers. Al- though careful in his diet, he was well versed in gastronomies, and his menus were wholly original and excellent. He had friendly relations with the diplomats who were prominent in the society of the capital. Lord Rosebery and the Duke of Devonshire were among his friends, as were also the late Senator Bayard and President Garfield.

Quite late in life, he enjoyed a turn of good fortune, and was most generous in his use of the wealth suddenly acquired, and alas ! as suddenly

SAMUEL WARD AND THE ASTORS 73

lost. His last visit to Europe was in 1882-83, when, after passing some months with Lord and Lady Rosebery, he proceeded to Rome to finish the winter with our sister, Mrs. Terry. In his travels he had contracted a fatal disease, and his checkered and brilliant career came to an end at Pegli, near Genoa, in the spring of 1884. Of his oft contemplated literary work there remains a volume of poems entitled " Literary Recreations." The poet Longfellow, my brother's lifelong friend and intimate, esteemed these productions of his as true poetry, and more than once said to me of their author, " He is the most lovable man that I have ever known." I certainly never knew one who took so much delight in giving pleasure to others, or whose life was so full of natural, over- flowing geniality and beneficence.

Shortly after his first marriage my brother and his bride came to reside with us. In their com- pany I often visited the Astor mansion, which was made delightful by good taste, good manners, and hospitable entertainment.

Mr. William B. Astor, the head of the family, was a rather shy and silent man. He had received the best education that a German university could offer. The Chevalier Bunsen had been his tutor, and Schopenhauer, then a student at the same university, had been his friend. He had a love for letters, and might perhaps have followed

74 REMINISCENCES

this natural leading to advantage, had he not be- come his father's man of business, and thus been forced to devote much of his life to the manage- ment of the great Astor estate. At the time of which I speak, he resided on the unfashionable side of Broadway, not far below Canal Street.

At this time I was often invited to the house of his father, Mr. John Jacob Astor. This house, which the old gentleman had built for himself, was situated on Broadway, between Prince and Spring streets. Adjoining it was one which he had built for a favorite granddaughter, Mrs. Boreel. He was very fond of music, and some- times engaged the services of a professional pian- ist. I remember that he was much pleased at recognizing, one evening, the strains of a brilliant waltz, of which he said : " I heard it at a fair in Switzerland years ago. The Swiss women were whirling round in their red petticoats." On another occasion, we sang the well-known song, " Am Rhein ; " and Mr. Astor, who was very stout and infirm of person, rose and stood beside the piano, joining with the singers, "Am Rhein, am Rhein, da wachset susses Leben," he sang, instead of "Da wachsen unsere Reben."

My sister-in-law, Emily Astor Ward, was en- dowed with a voice whose unusual power and beauty had been enhanced by careful training. We sometimes sang together or separately at

SAMUEL WARD AND THE ASTORS 75

old Mr. Astor's musical parties, and at one of these he said to us, as we stood together : " You are my singing birds." Of our two repertoires, mine was the most varied, as it included French and German songs, while she sang mostly operatic music. The rich volume of her voice, however, carried her hearers quite away. Her figure and carriage were fine, and in her countenance beauty of expression lent a great charm to features which in themselves were not handsome.

Although the elder Astor had led a life mainly devoted to business interests, he had great plea- sure in the society of literary men. Fitz-Greene Halleck and Washington Irving were familiar vis- itors at his house, and he conceived so great a regard for Dr. Joseph Green Cogswell as to insist upon his becoming an inmate of his family. He finally went to reside with Mr. Astor, attracted partly by the latter's promise to endow a public library in the city of New York. This was ac- complished after some delay, and the doctor was for many years director of the Astor Library.

He used to relate some humorous anecdotes of excursions which he made with Mr. Astor. In the course of one of these, the two gentlemen took supper together at a hotel recently opened. Mr. Astor remarked : " This man will never suc- ceed."

" Why not "i " inquired the other.

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" Don't you see what large lumps of sugar he puts in the sugar bowl ? "

Once, as they were walking slowly to a pilot- boat which the old gentleman had chartered for a trip down the harbor, Dr. Cogswell said : " Mr. Astor, I have just been calculating that this boat costs you twenty-five cents a minute." Mr. Astor at once hastened his pace, reluctant to waste so much money.

In his own country Mr. Astor had been a member of the German Lutheran Church, He once mentioned this fact to a clergyman who called upon him in the interest of some charity. The visitor congratulated Mr. Astor upon the increased ability to do good, which his great for- tune gave him. "Ah!" said Mr. Astor, "the disposition to do good does not always increase with the means." In the last years of his life he was afflicted with insomnia. Dr. Cogswell often sat with him through a great part of the night, the coachman, William, being also in attendance. In these sleepless nights, his mind appeared to be much exercised with regard to a future state. On one of these occasions, when Dr. Cogswell had done his best to expound the theme of im- mortality, Mr. Astor suddenly said to his servant : " William, where do you expect to go when you die ? " The man replied : " Why, sir, I always expected to go where the other people went."

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Young as my native city was in my youth, it still retained some fossils of an earlier period. Conspicuous among these were two sisters, of whom the elder had been a recognized beauty and belle at the time of the War of Independence.

Miss Charlotte White was what was called " a character" in those days. She was tall and of commanding figure, attired after an ancient fash- ion, but with great care. I remember her calling upon my aunt one morning, in company with a lady friend much inclined to embonpoint. The lady's name was Euphemia, and Miss White ad- dressed her thus : " Feme, thou female Falstaff." She took some notice of me, and began to talk of the gayeties of her youth, and especially of a ball given at Newport during the war, at which she had received especial attention.

On returning the visit we found the sisters in the quaintest little sitting-room imaginable, the floor covered with a green Brussels carpet, woven in one piece, with a medallion of flowers in the centre, evidently manufactured to order. The furniture was of enameled white wood. We were entertained with cake and wine.

The younger of the sisters was much afraid of lightning, and had devised a curious little refuge to which she always betook herself when a thun- derstorm appeared imminent. This was a wooden platform standing on glass feet, with a seat and a

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silken canopy, which the good lady drew closely around her, remaining thus enveloped until the dreaded danger was past.

My father sometimes endeavored to overcome my fear of lightning by taking me up to the cupola of our house, and bidding me admire the beauty of the storm. Wishing to impress upon me the absurdity of giving way to fear, he told me of a lady whom he had known in his youth who, being overtaken by a thunderstorm at a place of public resort, so lost her head that she seized the wig of a gentleman standing near her, and waved it wildly in the air, to his great wrath and discomfiture. I am sorry to say that this dreadful warning pro- voked my laughter, but did not increase my cour- age.

The years of mourning for my father and be- loved brother being at an end, and the sister next to me being now of an age to make her debut in society, I began with her a season of visiting, dancing, and so on. My sister was very handsome, and we were both welcome guests at fashionable entertainments.

I was passionately fond of music, and scarcely less so of dancing, and the history of the next two winters would, if written, chronicle a series of balls, concerts, and dinners.

I did not, even in these years of social routine, abandon either my studies or my hope of contribut-

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ing to the literature of my generation. Hours were not then unreasonably late. Dancing par- ties usually broke up soon after one o'clock, and left me fresh enough to enjoy the next day's study.

We saw many literary people and some of the scientists vnth. whom my brother had become acquainted while in Europe. Among the first was John L. O' Sullivan, the accomplished editor of the "Democratic Review." When the poet Dana visited our city, he always called upon us, and we sometimes had the pleasure of seeing with him his intimate friend, William Cullen Bryant, who very rarely appeared in general society.

Among our scientific guests I especially re- member an English gentleman who was in those days a distinguished mathematician, and who has since become very eminent. He was of the Hebrew race, and had fallen violently in love with a beautiful Je\\dsh heiress, well known in New York. His wooing was not fortunate, and the extravagance of his indignation at its result was both pathetic and laughable. He once con- fided to me his intention of paying his addresses

to the lady's young niece. " And Miss

shall become our Aunt Hannah ! " he said, with extreme bitterness.

I exhorted him to calm himself by devotion to his scientific pursuits, but he replied : " Something

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better than mathematics has waked up here!" pointing to his heart. He wrote many verses, which he read aloud to our sympathizing circle. I recall from one of these a distich of some merit. Speaking of his fancied wrongs, and warn- ing his fair antagonist to beware of the revenge which he might take, he wrote : —

" Wine gushes from the trampled grape, Iron 's branded into steel."

In the end he returned to the science which had been his first love, and which rewarded his devo- tion with a wide reputation.

These years glided by with fairy-like swiftness. They were passed by my sisters and myself under my brother's roof, where the beloved uncle also made his home with us so long as we remained together.

I have dwelt a good deal on the circumstances and surroundings of my early life in my native city. If this state of things here described had continued, I should probably have remained a frequenter of fashionable society, a musical ama- teur, and a dilettante in literature.

CHAPTER VII

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Quite other experiences were in store for me. I chanced to pass the summer of 1841 at a cot- tage in the neighborhood of Boston, with my sis- ters and a young friend much endeared to us as the betrothed of the dearly loved brother Henry, whose recent death had greatly grieved us.

Longfellow and Sumner often visited us in our retirement. The latter once made mention of Dr. Samuel Gridley Howe's wonderful achieve- ment in the case of Laura Bridgman, the first blind deaf mute who had ever been taught the use of language. He also brought us some of the reports which gave an account of the progress of her education. It was proposed that we should drive over to the Perkins Institution on a given day. Mr. Longfellow came for me in a buggy, while Mr. Sumner conducted my two sisters and our friend.

We found Laura, then a child of ten years, seated at her little desk, and beside her another girl of the same age, also a blind deaf mute. The name of this last was Lucy Reed, and we learned

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that, until brought to the Institution, she had been accustomed to cover her head and face with a cotton bag of her own manufacture. Her com- plexion was very delicate and her countenance altogether pleasing. While the two children were holding converse through the medium of the finger alphabet, Lucy's face was suddenly lit up by a smile so beautiful as to call forth from us an involuntary exclamation. Unfortunately, this young girl was soon taken away by her parents, and I have never had any further knowledge con- cerning her.

Dr. Howe was absent when we arrived at the Institution, but before we took leave of it, Mr. Sumner, looking out of a window, said, " Oh ! here comes Howe on his black horse." I looked out also, and beheld a noble rider on a noble steed. The doctor dismounted, and presently came to make our acquaintance. One of our party pro- posed to give Laura some trinket which she wore, but Dr. Howe forbade this rather sternly. He made upon us an impression of unusual force and reserve. Only when I was seated beside Longfellow for the homeward drive, he mischiev- ously remarked, " Longfellow, I see that your horse has been down," at which the poet seemed a little discomfited.

Mr. Sanborn, in the preface to his biography of Dr. Howe, says : —

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"It has fallen to my lot to know, both in youth and in age, several of the most romantic charac- ters of our century ; and among them one of the most romantic was certainly the hero of these pages. That he was indeed a hero, the events of his life sufficiently declare."

This writer, in his interesting memoir, often quotes passages from one prepared by myself shortly after my husband's death. In executing this work, I was forced to keep within certain limits, as my volume was primarily intended for the use of the blind, a circumstance which neces- sitated the printing of it in raised letters. As this process is expensive, and its results very cumbersome, economy of space becomes an im- portant condition in its execution.

Mr. Sanborn, not having suffered this limita- tion, and having had many documents at his dis- posal, has been able to add much interesting matter to what I was only able to give in outline. An even fuller biography than his will be pub- lished ere many years, by our children, but the best record of the great philanthropist's life re- mains in the new influences which he brought to bear on the community. Traces of these may be found in the improved condition of the sev- eral classes of unfortunates whose interests he espoused and \'indicated, often to the great in- dignation of parties less enlightened. He him-

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self had, what he was glad to recognize in Wen- dell Phillips, a prophetic quality of mind. His sanguine temperament, his knowledge of princi- ples and reliance upon them, combined to lead him in advance of his own time. Experts in reforms and in charities acknowledge the indebt- edness of both to his unremitting labors. What the general public should most prize and hold fast is the conviction, so clearly expressed by him, that humanity has a claim to be honored and aided, even where its traits appear most abnormal and deofraded. He demanded for the blind an edu- cation which would render them self-supporting; for the idiot, the training of his poor and maimed capabilities ; for the insane and the criminal, the watchful and redemptive tutelage of society. In the world as he would have had it, there should have been neither paupers nor outcasts. He did all that one man could do to advance the coming of this millennial consummation.

My husband. Dr. Howe, was my senior by nearly a score of years. If I mention this dis- crepancy in our ages, it is that I may acknow- ledge in him the superiority of experience which so many years of the most noble activity had naturally given him. My own true life had been that of a student and of a dreamer. Dr. Howe had read and thought much, but he had also acquired the practical knowledge which is rarely

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attained in the closet or at the desk. His career from the outset had been characterized by energy and perseverance. In his college days, this energy had found much of its vent in under- takings of boyish mischief. When he came to man's estate, a new inspiration took possession of him. The devotion to ideas and principles, the zeal for the rights of others which go to make up the men of public spirit — those leading traits now appeared in him, and at once gave him a place among the champions of human freedom.

The love of adventure and the example of Lord Byron had, no doubt, some part in his determi- nation to cast in his lot \\'ith the Greeks in the memorable struggle which restored to them their national life. But the solidity and value of the ser\'ices which he rendered to that oppressed peo- ple showed in time that he was endowed, not only with the generous impulses of youth, but with the forethought of mature manhood.

After some years of gallant service, in which he shared all the privations of the little army, accustoming himself to the bivouac by night, to hunger, hard fare, and constant fighting by day, he became convinced that the Greeks were in danger of being reduced to submission by abso- lute starvation. All the able-bodied men of the nation were in the field. The Turks had devas- tated the land, and there were no hands to till

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it He therefore returned to America, and there preached so effectual a crusade in behalf of the Greeks that a considerable sum of money was contributed for their relief. These funds were expended by Dr. Howe in shiploads of clothing and provisions, of which he himself superintended the distribution, thus enabling the Greeks to hold out until a sudden turn in political affairs induced the diplomacy of western Europe to espouse their cause.

When the liberation of Greece had become an assured fact. Dr. Howe returned to America to find and take up his life-work. The education of the blind presented a worthy field for his tire- less activity. He founded, built up, and directed the first institution for their benefit known in this country. This was a work of great difficulty, and one for which the means at hand appeared utterly inadequate. Beginning with the training of three little blind children in his father's house, he suc- ceeded so well in enlisting the sympathies of the public in behalf of the class which they repre- sented that funds soon flowed in from various sources. The present well-known institution, with its flourishing workshop, printing establish- ment, and other dependencies, stands to attest his work, and the support given to it by the commu- nity.

A new lustre was added to his name by the

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wonderful series of experiments which brought the gifts of human speech and knowledge to a blind deaf mute. The story of Laura Bridgman is too well known to need repetition in these pages. As related by Charles Dickens in his "American Notes," it carried Dr. Howe's fame to the civilized world. When he visited Europe with this deed of merit put upon his record, it was as one whom high and low should delight to honor.

Mr. Emerson somewhere speaks of the ro- mance of some special philanthropy. Dr. Howe's life became an embodiment of this romance. Like all inspired men, he brought into the enter- prises of his day new ideas and a new spirit. Deep in his heart lay a sense of the dignity and ability of human nature, which forced him to re- ject the pauperizing methods then employed in regard to various classes of unfortunates. The blind must not only be fed and housed and cared for ; they must learn to make their lives useful to the community ; they must be taught and trained to earn their own support. Years of patient effort enabled him to accomplish this ; and the present condition of the blind in American communities attests the general acceptance of their claim to the benefits of education and the dignity of useful labor.

Dr. Howe's public services, however, were by

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no means limited to the duties of his especial charge. With keen power of analysis, he ex- plored the most crying evils of society, seeking to discover, even in their sources, the secret of their prevention and cure. His masterly report on idiocy led to the establishment of a school for feeble-minded children, in which numbers of these were trained to useful industries, and redeemed from brutal ignorance and inertia. He aided Dorothea Dix in her heroic efforts to improve the condition of the insane. He worked with Horace Mann for the uplifting of the public schools. He stood with the heroic few who dared to advocate the abolition of slavery. In these and many other departments of work his influence was felt, and it is worthy of remark that, although employing his power in so many direc- tions, his use of it was wonderfully free from waste. He indulged in no vaporous visions, in no redundancy of phrases. The documents in which he gave to the public the results of his experience are models of statement, terse, simple, and direct. I became engaged to Dr. Howe during a visit to Boston in the winter of 1842-43, and was married to him on the 23d of April of the latter year. A week later we sailed for Europe in one of the small Cunard steamers of that time, taking with us my youngest sister, Annie Ward, whose state of health gave us some uneasiness. My

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husband's great friend, Horace Mann, and his bride, Mary Peabody, sailed with us. During the first two days of the voyage I was stupefied by sea-sickness, and even forgot that my sister was on board the steamer. On the evening of the second day I remembered her, and managed with the help of a very stout stewardess to visit her in her stateroom, where she had for her room- mate a cousin of the poet Longfellow. We be- wailed our common miseries a little, but the next morning brought a different state of things. As soon as I was awake, my husband came to me bringing a small dose of brandy with cracked ice. "Drink this," he said, "and ask Mrs. Bean [the stewardess] to help you get on your clothes, for you must go up on deck ; we shall be at Halifax in a few hours." Magnetized by the stronger will, I struggled with my weakness, and was pre- sently clothed and carried up on deck. " Now, I am going for Annie," said Dr. Howe, leaving me comfortably propped up in a safe seat. He soon returned with my dear sister, as helpless as my- self. The fresh air revived us so much that we were able to take our breakfast, the first meal we ate on board, in the saloon with the other pas- sengers. We went on shore, however, for a walk at Halifax, and from that time forth were quite able-bodied sea-goers.

On the last day before that of our landing, an

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unusually good dinner was served, and, according to the custom of the time, champagne was fur- nished gratis, in order that all who dined together might drink the Queen's health. This favorite toast was accordingly proposed and responded to by a number of rather flat speeches. The health of the captain of our steamer was also proposed, and some others which I cannot now recall. This proceeding amused me so much that I busied myself the next day with preparing for a mock celebration in the ladies' cabin. The meeting was well attended. I opened with a song in honor of Mrs. Bean, our kind and efficient stew- ardess.

" God save our Mrs. Bean, Best woman ever seen, God save Mrs. Bean. God bless her gown and cap, Pour guineas in her lap, Keep her from all mishap, God save Mrs. Bean."

The company were invited to join in singing these lines, which were, of course, a take-off on " God save our gracious Queen." I can still see in my mind's eye dear old Madam Sedgwick, mother of the well-known jurist, Theodore of that name, lifting her quavering, high voice to aid in the singing.

Mrs. Bean was rather taken aback by the un- expected homage rendered her. We all called

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out : " Speech ! speech ! " whereupon she curt- sied and said : " Good ladies makes good steward- esses ; that 's all I can say," which was very well in its way.

Rev. Jacob Abbott was one of our fellow pas- sengers, and had been much in our cabin, where he busied himself in compounding various " soft drinks " for convalescent lady friends. His health was accordingly proposed with the follow- ing stanza : —

" Dr. Abbott in our cabin, Mixing of a soda-powder, How he ground it, How did pound it, While the tempest threatened louder."

I next gave the cow's health, whereupon a lady passenger, with a Scotch accent, demurred : " I don't want to drink her health at a'. I think she is the poorest coo I ever heard of."

Arriving in London, we found comfortable lodgings in Upper Baker Street, and busied our- selves with the delivery of our many letters of introduction.

The Rev. Sydney Smith was one of the first to honor our introduction with a call. His reputa- tion as a wit was already world-wide, and he was certainly one of the idols of London society. In appearance he was hardly prepossessing. He was short and squat of figure, with a rubicund coun-

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tenance, redeemed by a pair of twinkling eyes. When we first saw him, my husband was suffer- ing from the result of a trifling accident, Mr. Smith said, "Dr. Howe, I must send you my gouty crutches."

My husband demurred at this, and begged Mr. Smith not to give himself that trouble. He in- sisted, however, and the crutches were sent. Dr. Howe had really no need of them, and I laughed with him at their disproportion to his height, which would in any case have made it impossible for him to use them. The loan was presently returned with thanks, but scarcely soon enough ; for Sydney Smith, who had lost heavily by Ameri- can investments, published in one of the London papers a letter reflecting severely upon the fail- ure of some of our Western States to pay their debts. The letter concluded with these words : " And now an American, present at this time in London, has deprived me of my last means of sup- port." One questioned a little whether the loan had not been made for the sake of the pleasantry.

In the course of the visit already referred to, Mr. Smith promised that we should receive cards for an entertainment which his daughter, Mrs. Holland, was about to give. The cards were re- ceived, and we presented ourselves at the party. Among the persons there introduced to us was Mme. Van de Weyer, wife of the Belgian minister,

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and daughter of Joshua Bates, formerly of Massa- chusetts, and in after years the founder of the Public Library of Boston, in which one hall bears his name. Mr. Van de Weyer, we were told, was on very friendly terms with the Prince Consort, and his wife was often invited by the Queen.

The historian Grote and his wife also made our acquaintance. I especially remember her appear- ance because it was, and was allowed to be, some- what grotesque. She was very tall and stout in proportion, and was dressed on this occasion in a dark green or blue silk, with a necklace of pearls about her throat. I gathered from what I heard that hers was one of the marked personalities of that time in London society.

At this party Sydney Smith was constantly the centre of a group of admiring friends. When we first entered the rooms, he said to us, " I am so busy to-night that I can do nothing for you."

Later in the evening he found time to seek me out. "Mrs. Howe," said he, "this is a rout. I like routs. Do you have routs in America .'* "

" We have parties like this in America," I re- plied, "but we do not call them routs."

" What do you call them there .•* "

"We call them receptions."

This seemed to amuse him, and he said to some one who stood near us : —

"Mrs. Howe says that in America they call routs re-cep-tions."

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He asked what I had seen in London so far. I replied that I had recently visited the House of Lords, whereupon he remarked : —

" Mrs. Howe, your English is excellent. I have only heard you make one mispronunciation. You have just said 'House of Lords.' We say 'House of Lards.'" Some one near by said, " Oh, yes ! the house is always addressed as ' my luds and gentlemen.' "

When I repeated this to Horace Mann, it so vexed his gentle spirit as to cause him to exclaim, " House of Lords ? You ought to have said 'House of Devils.'"

I have made several visits in London since that time, one quite recently, and I have observed that people now speak of receptions, and not of routs. I think, also, that the pronunciation in- sisted upon by Sydney Smith has become a thing of the past.

I think that Mrs. Sydney Smith must have called or have left a card at our lodgings, for I distinctly remember a morning call which I made at her house. The great wit was at home on this occasion, as was also his only surviving son. An elder son had been born to him, who probably inherited something of his character and ability, and whose death he laments in one or more of his published letters. The young man whom I saw at this time was spoken of as much devoted to

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the turf, and the only saying of his that I have ever heard quoted was his question as to how long it took Nebuchadnezzar to get into condition after he had been out to grass.

Mrs. Smith received me very pleasantly. She seemed a grave and silent woman, presenting in this respect a striking contrast to her husband. I knew very little of the political opinions of the latter, and innocently inquired whether he and Mrs. Smith went sometimes to court. The ques- tion amused him. He said to his wife, " My dear, Mrs. Howe wishes to know whether you and I go to court," To me he said, " No, madam. That is a luxury which I deny myself."

I last saw Sydney Smith at an evening party at which, as usual, he was surrounded by friends. A very amiable young American was present, apropos of whom I heard Mr. Smith say : —

*' I think I shall go over to America and settle in Boston. Perkins here says that he 11 patronize me."

Thomas Carlyle was also one of our earliest visitors. Some time before leaving home, Dr. Howe had received from him a letter expressing his great interest in the story of Laura Bridgman as narrated by Charles Dickens. In this letter he mentioned Laura's childish question, " Do horses sit up late .-' " In the course of his conver- sation he said, laughing heartily : ** Laura Bridg-

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man, dear child ! Her question, Do horses sit up late?"

Before taking leave of us he invited us to take tea with him on the following Sunday. When the day arrived, my husband was kept at home by a severe headache, but Mr. and Mrs. Mann, my sister, and myself drove out to Chelsea, where Mr. Carlyle resided at that time. In receiving us he apologized for his wife, who was also suffering from headache and could not appear.

In her absence I was requested to pour tea. Our host partook of it copiously, in all the strength of the teapot. As I filled and refilled his cup, I thought that his chronic dyspepsia was not to be wondered at. The repast was a simple one. It consisted of a plate of toast and two small dishes of stewed fruit, which he offered us with the words, " Perhaps ye can eat some of this. I never eat these things myself."

The conversation was mostly a monologue. Mr. Carlyle spoke with a strong Scotch accent, and his talk sounded to me like pages of his writ- ings. He had recently been annoyed by some movement tending to the disestablishment of the Scottish Church. Apropos of this he said, "That auld Kirk of Scotland ! To think that a man like Johnny Graham should be able to wipe it out with a flirt of his pen ! " Charles Sumner was spoken of, and Mr. Carlyle said, " Oh yes ; Mr. Sumner

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was a vera dull man, but he did not offend people, and he got on in society here."

Carlyle's hair was dark, shaggy, and rather un- kempt ; his complexion was sallow, with a slight glow of red on the cheek ; his eye was full of fire. As we drove back to town, Mr. Mann expressed great disappointment with our visit. He did not feel, he said, that we had seen the real Carlyle at all. I insisted that we had.

Soon after our arrival in London a gentleman called upon us whom the servant announced as Mr. Mills. It happened that I did not examine the card which was brought in at the same time. Dr. Howe was not within, and in his absence I entertained the unknown guest to the best of my ability. He spoke of Longfellow's volume of poems on slavery, then a recent publication, say- ing that he admired them.

Our talk turning upon poetry in general, I remarked that Wordsworth appeared to be the only poet of eminence left in England. Before taking leave of me the visitor named a certain day on which he requested that we would come to breakfast at his house. Forgetful of the card, I asked "Where.?" He said, "You will find my address on my card. I am Mr. Milnes." On looking at the card I found that this was Rich- ard Monckton Milnes, afterward known as Lord Houghton. I was somewhat chagrined at remem-

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bering the remark I had made in connection with Wordsworth. He probably supposed that I was ignorant of his Hterary rank, which I was not, as his poems, though never very popular, were already well known in America.

The breakfast to which Mr. Milnes had invited us proved most pleasant. Our host had recently traveled in the East, and had brought home a prayer carpet, which we admired. His sister, Lady Galway, presided at table with much grace.

The breakfast was at this time a favorite mode of entertainment, and we enjoyed many of these occasions. I remember one at the house of Sir Robert Harry Inglis, long a leading Conservative member of the House of Commons. Punch once said of him : —

" The Inglis thinks the world grows worse, And always wears a rose."

And this flower, which always adorned his button- hole, seemed to match well with his benevolent and somewhat rubicund countenance. At the breakfast of which I speak, he cut the loaf with his own hands, saying to each guest, " Will you have a slice or a hunch .-' " and cutting a slice from one end or a hunch from the other, according to the preference expressed.

These breakfasts were not luncheons in disguise. They were given at ten, or even at half past nine o'clock. The meal usually consisted of fish, cut-

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lets, eggs, cold bread and toast, with tea and coffee. At Samuel Rogers's I remember that plover's eggs were served.

We also dined one evening with Mr. Rogers, and met among the guests Mr. Dickens and Lady B., one of the beautiful Sheridan sisters. A gen- tleman sat next me at table, whose name I did not catch. I had heard much of the works of art to be seen in Mr. Rogers's house, and so took occasion to ask him whether he knew anything about pictures. He smiled, and answered, "Well, yes," I then begged him to explain to me some of those which hung upon the walls, which he did with much good-nature. Presently some one at the table addressed him as "Mr. Landseer," and I became aware that I was sitting next to the celebrated painter of animals. His fine face had already attracted me. I apologized for the ques- tion which I had asked, and which had somewhat amused him,

I had recently seen at Stafford House a picture of his, representing two daughters of the Duke of Sutherland playing with a dog. He said that he did not care much for that picture, that the Duchess had herself chosen the subject, etc, Mr, Rogers, indeed, possessed some paintings of great value, one a genuine Raphael, if I mistake not. He had also many objects of virtu. I think it was after a breakfast at his house that he showed us

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some Etruscan potteries. Dr. Howe took up one of these rather carelessly. It was a cup, and the handle became separated from it. My husband appeared so much disconcerted at this that I could not help laughing a little at the expression of his countenance. Mr. Rogers afterwards said to an American friend, " Mrs. Howe was quite cruel to laugh at the doctor's embarrassment." On one occasion he showed us some autograph letters of Lord Byron, with whom he had been well ac- quainted. He read a passage from one of these, in which Lord Byron, after speaking of the ancient custom of the Doge wedding the Adriatic, wrote : "I wish the Adriatic would take my wife."

In after years I was sometimes questioned as to what had most impressed me during my first visit in London. I replied unhesitatingly, " The clever people collected there." The moment, in- deed, was fortunate. We had come well provided with letters of introduction. Besides this, my husband was at the time a first-class lion, and this merit avails more in England than any other, and more there than elsewhere.

Mr. Sumner had given us a letter to the Mar- quis of Lansdowne, which the latter honored by a call, and further by sending us cards for a mu- sical evening at Lansdowne House. Lord Lans- downe was a gracious host. His lady was more formal in manner. Their music-room was oblong

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in shape, and the guests were seated along the wall on either side. Before the performance began I noticed a movement among those pre- sent, the cause of which became e\ident when the Duchess of Gloucester appeared, leaning on the arm of the master of the house. She was attired, or, as newspapers put it, "gowned," in black, wearing white plumes in her headdress, and with bare neck and arms, according to the imperative fashion of the time. She was well advanced in years, and had probably never been remarked for good looks, but was said to be beloved by the Queen and by many friends.

The programme of the entertainment was one which to-day would seem rather commonplace, though the performers were not so. A handsome young man, of slender figure, opened the concert by singing the serenade from the opera of " Don Pasquale." I felt at once that this must be Mario, but that name cannot suggest to one who never heard him either the beauty of his voice or the refinement of his intonation. I still feel a sort of intoxication when I recall his rendering of "Com' e gentil." Grisi sang several times. She was then in what some one has termed, " the insolence of her youth and beauty." Mile. Per- siani, also of the grand opera, gave an air by Gluck, which I myself had studied, "Pago fui, fui lieto un di." Lord Lansdowne told me that

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this lady was the most obliging of artists. I after- wards heard her in " Linda di Chamounix," which was then in its first favor. The concert ended with the prayer from Rossini's " Mose in Egitto," sung by the artists already named with the addi- tion of the great Lablache.

At the conclusion of it we adjourned to the supper-room, which afforded us a better oppor- tunity of observing the distinguished company. My husband was presently engaged in conversa- tion with the Hon. Mrs. Norton, who was then very handsome. Her hair, which was decidedly black, was arranged in flat bandeaux, according to the fashion of the time. A diamond chain, formed of large links, encircled her fine head. Her eyes were dark and full of expression. Her dress was unusually dicollctee, but most of the ladies present would in America have been con- sidered extreme in this respect. Court mourn- ing had recently been ordered for the Duke of Sussex, uncle to the Queen, and many black dresses were worn. My memory, nevertheless, tells me that the great Duchess of Sutherland wore a dress of pink moire, and that her head was adorned with a wreath of velvet leaves inter- spersed with diamonds. Her brother, Lord Mor- peth, was also present. I heard a lady say to him, "Are you worthy of music?" He replied, "Oh, yes; very worthy." I heard the same

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phrase repeated by others, and, on inquirmg as to its meaning, was told that it was a way of ask- ing whether one was fond of music. The for- mula has long since gone out of fashion.

Somewhat later in the season we were invited to dine at Lansdowne House. Among the guests present I remember Lord Morpeth. I had some conversation with the daughter of the house, Lady Louisa Fitzmaurice, who was pleasing, but not pretty, and wore a dress of Hght blue silk, with a necklace around her throat formed of many strands of fine gold chain. I was asked at this dinner whether I should object to sitting next to a colored person in, for example, a box at the opera. Were I asked this question to-day, I should reply that this would depend upon the character and cleanliness of the colored person, much as one would say in the case of a white man or woman. I remember that Lord Lans- downe wore a blue ribbon across his breast, and on it a flat star of silver.

Among the well-remembered glories of that summer, the new delight of the drama holds an important place. I had been denied this pleasure in my girlhood, and my enjoyment of it at this time was fresh and intense. Among the atten- tions lavished upon us during that London season were frequent offers of a box at Covent Garden or " Her Majesty's." These were never declined.

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Of especial interest to me was a performance of Macready as Claude Melnotte in Bulwer's " Lady of Lyons." The part of Pauline was played by Helen Faucit. Both of these artists were then at their best. Thomas Appleton, of Boston, and William Wadsworth, of Geneseo, were with us in our box. The pathetic moments of the play moved me to tears, which I tried to hide. I soon saw that all my companions were affected in the same way, and were making the same effort. I saw Miss Faucit again at an entertainment given in aid of the fund for a monument to Mrs. Sid- dons. She recited an ode written for the occa- sion, of which I still recall the closing line : —

" And measure what we owe by what she gave."

I saw Grisi in the great role of Semiramide, and with her Brambilla, a famous contralto, and Fomasari, a basso whom I had longed to hear in the operas given in New York. I also saw Mile. Persiani in "Linda di Chamounix" and "Lucia di Lammermoor." All of these occasions gave me unmitigated delight, but the crowning ecstasy of all I found in the ballet, Fanny Elssler and Cerito were both upon the stage. The former had lost a little of her prestige, but Cerito, an Italian, was then in her first bloom and wonder- fully graceful. Of her performance my sister said to me, " It seems to make us better to see

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anything so beautiful." This remark recalls the oft-quoted dialogue between Margaret Fuller and Emerson apropos of Fanny Elssler's dancing : —

" Margaret, this is poetry."

" Waldo, this is religion."

I remember, years after this time, a talk with Theodore Parker, in which I suggested that the best stage dancing gives us the classic in a fluent form, with the illumination of life and personality. I cannot recall, in the dances which I saw during that season, anything which appeared to me sen- sual or even sensuous. It was rather the very ecstasy and embodiment of grace.

A ball at Almack's certainly deserves mention in these pages, the place itself belonging to the history of the London world of fashion. The one of which I now speak was given in aid of the Polish refugees who were then in London. The price of admission to this sacred precinct would have been extravagant for us, but cards for it were sent us by some hospitable friend. The same attention was shown to Mr. and Mrs. Mann, who with us presented themselves at the rooms on the appointed evening.

We found them spacious enough, but with no splendor or beauty of decoration. A space at the upper end of the ball-room was marked off by raU or ribbon — I cannot remember which. While we were wondering what this should mean.

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a brilliant procession made its appearance, led by the Duchess of Sutherland in some historic cos- tume. She was followed by a number of persons of high rank, among whom I recognized her lovely daughters, Lady Elizabeth Leveson-Gower and Lady Evelyn. These young ladies and several others were attired in Polish costume, to wit, polo- naises of light blue silk, and short white skirts which showed the prettiest little red boots imagin- able. This high and mighty company took pos- session of the space mentioned above, where they proceeded to dance a quadrille in rather solemn state.

The company outside this limit stood and looked on. Among the groups taking part in this state quadrille was one characterized by the dress worn at court presentations : the ladies in pink and blue brocades, with plumes and lappets ; the gentle- men in small-clothes, with swords, — and all with powdered hair.

I first met the Duchess of Sutherland at a din- ner given in our honor by Lord Morpeth's parents, the Earl and Countess of Carlisle. The Great Duchess, as the Duchess of Sutherland was often called, was still very handsome, though already the mother of grown-up children. She wore a dress of brown gauze or barege over light blue satin, with a wreath of brown velvet leaves and blue forget-me-nots in her hair, and on her arm,

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among other jewels, a miniature of the Queen set in diamonds. At one time she was Mistress of the Robes, but I am not sure whether she held this office at the time of which I speak. Her re- lations with the palace were said to be very inti- mate and friendly. In the picture of the Queen's Coronation, so well known to us by engravings, hers is one of the most striking figures.

We did, indeed, hear that on one occasion the Duchess had kept the Queen waiting, and that the sovereign said to her on her arrival, " Duch- ess, you must allow me to present you with my watch, yours evidently does not keep good time." The eyes of the proud Duchess filled with tears, and, on returning home, she sent to the palace a letter resigning her post in the royal service. The Queen was, however, very fond of her, and the little difficulty was soon amicably settled.

I recall a pleasantry about Lady Carlisle that was current in London society in the season of which I write. Sydney Smith pretended to have dreamed that Lord Morpeth had brought back a black wife from America, and that his mother, on seeing her, had said, "She is not so very black." Lady Carlisle was proverbial for her kindliness and good temper, and it \vas upon this point that the humor of the story turned.

I will also mention a dinner given in our honor by John Kenyon, well known as a Maecenas of

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that period. Miss Sedgwick, in her book of travels, speaks of him as a distinguished conversationaHst, much given to hospitaHty. He is also remem- bered as a cousin of Elizabeth Barrett Browning.

The scenes just described still remain quite vivid in my memory, but it would be difficult for me to recount the visits made in those days by my husband and Horace Mann to public institu- tions of all kinds. I did indeed accompany the two philanthropists in some of their excursions, which included schools, workhouses, prisons, and asylums for the insane.

We went one day, in company with Charles Dickens and his wife, to visit the old prison of Bridewell. We found the treadmill in operation. Every now and then a man would give out, and would be allowed to leave the ungrateful work. The midday meal, bread and soup, was served to the prisoners while we were still in attendance. To one or two, as a punishment for some mis- demeanor, bread alone was given. Charles Dick- ens looked on, and presently said to Doctor Howe, " My God ! if a woman thinks her son may come to this, I don't blame her if she strangles him in infancy."

At Newgate prison we were shown the fetters of Jack Sheppard and those of Dick Turpin. While we were on the premises the van arrived with fresh prisoners, and one of the officials ap-

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peared to jest with a young woman who had just been brought in, and who, it seemed, was already well known to the officers of justice. Dr. Howe did not fail to notice this with disapprobation.

At one of the charity schools which we visited, Mr. Mann asked whether corporal punishment was used. " Commonly, only this," said the mas- ter, calling up a little girl, and snapping a bit of India rubber upon her neck in a manner which caused her to cry out. I need not say that the two gentlemen were indignant at this unprovoked infliction.

In strong contrast to old-time Bridewell ap- peared the model prison of Pentonville, which we visited one day in company with Lord Morpeth and the Duke of Richmond. The system there was one of solitary confinement, much approved, if I remember rightly, by " my lord duke," who interested himself in showing us how perfectly it was carried out. Neither at meals nor at prayers could any prisoner see or be seen by a fellow pris- oner. The open yard was divided by brick walls into compartments, in each of which a single felon, hooded, took his melancholy exercise. The prison was extremely neat. Dr. Howe at the time approved of the solitary discipline. I am not sure whether he ever came to think differ- ently about it.

At a dinner at Charles Dickens's we met his

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intimate friend, John Forster, a lawyer of some note, later known as the author of a biography of Dickens. When we arrived, Mr. Forster was amusing himself with a small spaniel which had been sent to Mr. Dickens by an admiring friend, who desired that the dog might bear the name of Boz. Somewhat impatient of such tributes, Mr. Dickens had named it Snittel Timbury. Of the dinner, I only remember that it was of the best so far as concerns food, and that later in the evening we listened to some comic songs, of one of which I recall the refrain ; it ran thus : —

" Tiddy hi, tiddy ho, tiddy hi hum, Thus was it when Barbara Popkins was young."

Mr. Forster invited us to dine at his chambers in the Inns of Court. Mr. and Mrs. Dickens were of the party, and also the painter Maclise, whose work was then highly spoken of. After dinner, while we were taking coffee in the sitting- room, I had occasion to speak to my husband, and addressed him as "darling." Thereupon Dickens slid down to the floor, and, lying on his back, held up one of his small feet, quivering with pretended emotion. " Did she call him ' darling ' ? " he cried.

I was sorry indeed when the time came for us to leave London, and the more as one of the plea- sures there promised us had been that of a break- fast with Charles Buller. Mr. Buller was the only person who at that time spoke to me of

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Thomas Carlyle, already so great a celebrity in America. He expressed great regard for Carlyle, who, he said, had formerly been his tutor, I was sorry to find in papers of Carlyle' s, recently pub- lished, a rather ungracious mention of this bril- liant young man, whose early death was much regretted in English society.

From England we passed on to Wales, Scot- land, and Ireland. In the inn at Llangollen we saw an engraving representing two aged ladies sitting opposite to each other, engaged in some friendly game. These were the once famous maids whose romantic elopement and companion- ship of many years gave the place some celebrity. In the burying-ground of the parish church we were shown their tomb, bearing an inscription not only commemorating the ladies themselves, but making mention also of the lifelong service of a faithful female attendant.

Of my visit to Scotland, never repeated, I recall with interest Holyrood Palace, where the blood stain of Rizzio's murder was still shown on the wooden floor, the grave of Sir Walter Scott at Abbotsford, and Stirling Castle, where, if I mis- take not, the regalia of Robert Bruce was shown us. Among the articles composing it was a cameo of great beauty, surrounded by diamonds, and a crown set with large turquoises and sapphires.

We passed a Sunday at Melrose, and attended

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an open-air service in the ruins of the ancient abbey. We saw little of Edinburgh besides its buildings, the society people of the place being mostly in villeggiatura. Mr. Sumner had given us letters to two of the law lords. One of these invited us to a seaside dinner at some little dis- tance from town. The other entertained us at his city residence.

Of greater interest was our tour in Ireland. Lord Morpeth had given us some introductions to friends in Dublin. At the same time he had written Mr. Sumner that he hoped Dr. Howe would not in any way become conspicuous as a friend to the Repeal measures which were then much in the public mind. This Repeal portended nothing less than the disruption of the existing political union between Ireland and England. The Dublin Corn Exchange was the place in which Repeal meetings were usually held. We attended one of these. My sister and I had seats in the gallery, which was reserved for ladies. Dr. Howe remained on the floor. This meeting had for one of its objects the acknowledgment of funds recently sent from America. The women who sat near us in the gallery found out, somehow, that we were Americans, and that an American gentleman had accompanied us to the meeting. They insisted upon making this known, and only forbore to do so at our earnest request.

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These friends were vehement in their praise of O'Connell, who was the principal speaker of the occasion, " He 's the best man, the most reli- gious ! " they said ; "he communes so often." I remember his appearance well, but can recall nothing of his address. He was tall, blond, and florid, with remarkable vivacity of speech and of ex- pression. His popularity was certainly very great. While he was speaking, a gentleman entered and approached him. " How d' ye do, Tom Steele } " said O'Connell, shaking hands with the new-comer. The audience applauded loudly, Steele being an intimate friend and ally of O'Connell, and, like him, an earnest partisan of Repeal.

Mr. George Ticknor, of Boston, had given us a letter to Miss Edgeworth, who resided at some distance from the city of Dublin. From her we soon received an invitation to luncheon, of which we gladly availed ourselves. Our hostess met us with a warm welcome. She had had some cor- respondence with Dr. Howe, and seemed much pleased to make his acquaintance. I remember her as a little old lady, with an old-fashioned cap and curls. She was very vivacious, and had much to say to Dr. Howe about Laura Bridgman. He in turn asked what she thought of the Repeal movement. She said in reply, "I don't under- stand what O'Connell really means."

Some one present casually mentioned the new

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substitution of lard oil for whale oil for use in lamps. Miss Edgeworth said, " I hear that, in consequence of this new fashion, the whale can- not bear the sight of a pig." We met on this occasion a half-brother and a half-sister of Miss Edgeworth, much younger than herself. I think that they must have been twins, so closely did they resemble each other in appearance. At parting Miss Edgeworth gave each of us an etching of Irish peasants, the work of a friend of hers. On the one which she gave to my husband she wrote, " From a lover of truth to a lover of truth."

After leaving Dublin we traveled north as far as the Giant's Causevv^ay. The state of the country was very forlorn. The peasantry lived in wretched hovels of one or two rooms, the floor of mud, the pig taking his ease within doors, and the chickens roosting above the fireplace. Beggars were seen everywhere, and of the most persistent sort. In most places where we stopped for the night, ac- commodations were far from satisfactory. The safest dishes to order were stirabout and potatoes.

My husband had received an urgent invitation from an Irish nobleman, Lord Walcourt, to visit him at his estate, which was in the south of Ire- land We found Lord Walcourt living very sim- ply, with two young daughters and a baby son. He told my husband that when he first read a book of Fourier, he instantly went over to France

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to make the acquaintance of the author, whom he greatly admired. " If I had only read on to the end of the book," he said, " I should have seen that Fourier was already dead."

He told us that Lady Walcourt spent much time in London or on the Continent, from which we gathered that country life in Ireland was not much to her taste. Dr. Howe and our host had a good deal of talk together concerning socialistic and other reforms. My sister and I found his housekeeping rather meagre. He was evidently a whole-souled man, but we learned later on that he was considered very eccentric.

A visit to the poet Wordsworth was one of the brilliant visions that floated before my eyes at this time. Mr. Ticknor had kindly furnished us with an introduction to the great man, who was then at the height of his popularity. To criticise Wordsworth and to praise Byron were matters equally unpardonable in the London of that time, when London was, what it has ceased to be, the very heart and centre of the literary world. Of our journey to the lake country I can now recall little, save that its last stage, a drive of ten or more miles from the railway station to the poet's village, was rendered very comfortless by constant showers, and by an ill-broken horse which more than once threatened mischief. Arrived at the inn, my husband called at the Wordsworth resi-

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dence, and left there his card and the letter of in- troduction. In return a note was soon sent, inviting us to take tea that evening with Mr. and Mrs. Wordsworth.

Our visit was a very disappointing one. The widowed daughter of our host had lost heavily by the failure of certain American securities. These losses formed the sole topic of conversation not only between Wordsworth and Dr. Howe, but also between the ladies of the family, my sister, and myself. The tea to which we had been bid- den was simply a cup of tea, served without a table. We bore the harassing conversation as long as we could. The only remark of Words- worth's which I brought away was this: "The misfortune of Ireland is that it was only a partially conquered country." When we took leave, the poet expressed his willingness to serve us during our stay in his neighborhood. We left it, however, on the following morning, without seeing him or his again.

A little akin to this experience was that of a visit to the Bank of England, made at the invita- tion of one of its officers whom I had known and entertained in America. Another of the function- aries of the bank volunteered his services as a cicerone. He showed us among other things the treasure recently received from the Chinese gov- ernment, in payment of a war indemnity. It was

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all in little blocks, parallelograms and horseshoes of gold and silver. An ingenious little machine was also shoA\Ti us for the detection of light weight sovereigns. We paid for his attention by listen- ing to many uncivil pleasantries regarding the financial condition of our own country. I still remember the insolent sneer with which this gen- tleman said, " By the bye, have you sold the Bank of the United States yet }" He was presumably ignorant of the real history of the bank, which had long ceased to be a government institution, President Jackson having annulled its charter and removed the government deposits.

I mention these incidents because they were the only exceptions to the uniform kindness with which we were generally received, and to the homage paid to my husband as one of the most illustrious of modem philanthropists.

Berlin would have been the next important stop in our journey but for an impediment which we had hardly anticipated. In the days of the French revolution of 1830, the Poles had made one of their oft-repeated struggles to regain na- tional independence. General Lafayette was much interested in this movement, and at his request Dr. Howe undertook to convey to some of the Polish chiefs funds sent for their aid by parties in the United States. He succeeded in accomplishing this errand, but was arrested on the

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very night of his arrival in Berhn, and was only released by the intervention of our government, after a tedious imprisonment au secret. He was then sent with a military escort to the confines of Prussia with the warning to return no more.

Thirteen years had elapsed since these events took place. Dr. Howe had meantime acquired a world-wide reputation as a philanthropist. The Poles had long been subdued, and Europe seemed to be free from all revolutionary threatenings. Through the intervention of Chevalier Bunsen, who was then Prussian ambassador at the Court of St. James, Dr. Howe applied for permission to revisit the kingdom of Prussia, but this was refused him. Some years after this time, Dr. Howe received from the Prussian government a gold medal in acknowledgment of his services to the blind. On weighing it, he found that the value of the gold was equal to the amount of money which he had been required to pay for his board in the prison at Berlin. In spite of the prohibition, we managed to see something of the Rhine, and journeyed through Switzerland and the Austrian Tyrol to Vienna, where we remained for some weeks. We here made the acquaint- ance of Madame von Walther and her daughter Theresa, afterward known as Madame Pulszky, the wife of one of Louis Kossuth's most valued friends.

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Arriving in Milan, we presented a letter of in- troduction from Miss Catharine Sedgwick to Count Confalonieri, after Silvio Pellico the most distin- guished of the Italian patriots who underwent imprisonment in the Austrian fortress of Spielberg. His life had been spared only through the pas- sionate pleading of his wife, who traveled day and night to throw herself at the feet of the Empress, imploring the commutation of the death sentence passed upon her husband. This heroic woman did not long survive the granting of her prayer. She died while her husband was still in prison ; but the men who had been his companions in misfortune so revered her memory as always to lift their hats when they passed near her grave. Years had elapsed since the events of which I speak, and the count had married a second wife, a lively and attractive person, from whom, as from the count, we received many kind attentions.

Dr. Howe was at this time called to Paris by some special business, and I remained a month in Milan with my sister. We greatly enjoyed the beauty of the cathedral and the hospitality of our new friends. Among these were the Marchese Arconati and his wife, a lady of much distinction, and in after years a friend of Margaret Fuller.

Some delightful entertainments were given us by these and other friends, and I remember with pleasure an expedition to Monza, where the iron

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crown of the Lombard kingdom is still shown. Napoleon is said to have placed it on his head while he was still First Consul. Apropos of this, we saw in one of the Milanese mansions a seat on which Napoleon had once sat, and which, in com- memoration of this, bore the inscription, "Egli ci ha dato I'unione " (He gave us unity). Alas ! this precious boon was only secured to Italy many years later, and after much shedding of blood.

Several of the former captives of Spielberg were living in Milan at this time. Of these I may mention Castiglia and the advocate Borsieri. Two others, Foresti and Albinola, I had often seen in New York, where they lived for many years, beloved and respected. In all of them, a per- fectly childish delight in living seemed to make amends for the long and dreary years passed in prison. Every pulse-beat of freedom was a joy to them. Yet the iron had entered deeply into their souls. Natural leaders and men of promise, they had been taken out of the world of active life in the very flower of their youth and strength. The fortress in which they were confined was gloomy and desolate. For many months no books were allowed them, and in the end only books of religion, so called. They had begged for employ- ment, and were given wool to knit stockings, and dirty linen rags to scrape for lint, with the sar- castic remark that to people of their benevolent

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disposition such work as this last should be most congenial. The time, they said, seemed endless in passing, but little when past, no events having diversified its dull blankness.

When I listened to the conversation of these men, and saw Italy so bound hand and foot by Austrian and other tyrants, I felt only the hope- less chaos of the political outlook. Where should freedom come from ? The logical bond of impris- onment seemed complete. It was sealed with four impregnable fortresses, and the great spiritual tyranny sat enthroned in the centre, and had its response in ever}^ other despotic centre of the globe. I almost ask to-day, " By what miracle was the great structure overthrov\Ti .-' " But the remembrance of this miracle forbids me to de- spair of any great deliverance, however desired and delayed. He who maketh the wrath of man to serve Him can make liberty blossom out of the very rod that the tyrant wields.

The emotions with which people in general ap- proach the historic sites of the world have been so often described as to make it needless for me to dwell upon my own. But I wUl mention the thrill of wonder which overcame me as we drove over the Campagna and caught the first glimpse of St. Peter's dome. Was it possible ? Had I lived to come within sight of the great city, ■Mis- tress of the World ? Like much else in my jour-

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neying, this appeared to me like something seen in a dream, scarcely to be apprehended by the bodily senses.

The Rome that I then saw was mediaeval in its aspect. A great gloom and silence hung over it. Coming to establish ourselves for the winter, we felt the pressure of many discomforts, especially that of the imperfect heating of houses. Our first quarters were in Torlonia's palace on the Piazza di Spagna. My husband found these gloomy and sunless, and was soon attracted by a small but comfortable apartment in Via San Nicola da Tolentino, where we passed a part of the winter. There my husband undertook one day to make a real Christmas fire. In doing so he dragged the logs too far forward on the unsub- stantial hearth, setting fire to the crossbeams which supported the floor. This was fortunately discovered before the danger became imminent, and the mischief was soon remedied. I was not allowed to hear about it until long afterwards.

Dr. Howe went out early one morning, and did not return until late in the evening. Had I known at the time the reason of his absence, I should have felt great anxiety. He had gone to the post-office, but in doing so had passed some spot at which a sentry was stationed. He hap- pened to be absorbed in his own thoughts, and did not notice the warning given. The sentry seized

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him, and Dr. Howe began to beat him over the head. A crowd soon gathered, and my husband was arrested and taken to the guard-house. The situation was a grave one, but the doctor immedi- ately sent for the American consul, George Wash- ington Greene. With the aid of this friendly official the necessary explanations were made and accepted, and the prisoner was liberated.

The consul just mentioned was a cousin of my father and a grandson of the famous General Na- thanael Greene of the Revolution. He was much at home in Roman society, and through him we had access to the principal houses in which were given the great entertainments of the season. The first of these that I attended appeared to me a melan- choly failure, judging by our American ideas of a pleasant evening party. The great ladies sat very quietly in the salon of reception, and the gentle- men spoke to them in an undertone. There was none of the joyous effusion with which even a " few friends " meet on similar occasions in Boston or New York. Exceeding stiffness was obviously the "good form" of the occasion.

A ball given by the banker prince, Torlonia, presented a more animated scene. The beautiful princess of the house, then in the bloom of her youth, was conspicuous among the dancers. Her fair head was encircled by a fine tiara of diamonds. She was by birth a Colonna. The attraction of

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the great fortune was said to have led to her alli- ance with the prince, who was equally her superior in age and her inferior in rank. I was told that he had presented his bride with the pearls formerly belonging to the shrine of the Madonna of Loretto, and I remember to have seen her once in evening dress, adorned with pearls of enormous size, which were probably those in question. I thought her quite as beautiful on another occasion, when she wore a simple gown of ecni silk, with a necklace of carved coral beads. This was at a reception given at the charity school of San Michele, where a play was performed by the pupils of the institu- tion. The theme of the drama was the worship of the golden calf by the Israelites and the over- throw of the idol by Moses.

The industrial school of San Michele, like every other institution in the Rome of that time, was entirely under ecclesiastical control. If I remem- ber rightly, Monsignore Morecchini had to do with its management. This interesting man stood at the time at the head of the administration of pub- lic charities. He called one day at our lodgings, and I had the pleasure of listening to a long con- versation between him and my husband, regarding chiefly the theme in which both gentlemen were most deeply interested, the education of the work- ing classes. I was present, some time later, at a meeting of the Academy of St. Luke, at which

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the same monsignore made an address of some length, and with his own hands presented the medals awarded to successful artists. One of these was given to an Italian lady, who appeared in the black costume and lace veil which are still de rigueur at all functions of the papal court. I remember that the monsignore delivered his ad- dress with a sort of rhythmic intoning, not unlike the singsong of the Quaker preaching of fifty years ago.

Of the matter of his discourse I can recall only one sentence, in which he mentioned as one of the boasts of Rome the fact that she possessed la maggiore basilica del mondo, "the largest basilica in the world," The Church of St. Peter, like that of Santa Maria Maggiore, is indeed modeled after the design of the basilicas or courts of justice of ancient Rome, and Italians are apt to speak of it as "la basilica di san Pietro." To another monsignore, Baggs byname, and Bishop of Pella, we owed our presentation to Pope Gregory Sixteenth, the immediate predecessor of Pope Pius Ninth. Our cousin the consul, George W. Greene, went with us to the reception accorded us. Papal etiquette was not rigorous in those days. It only required that we should make three genuflections, simply bows, as we approached the spot where the Pope stood, and three more in retiring, as from a royal presence, witho,ut turning

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our backs. Monsignore Baggs, after presenting my husband, said to him, " Dr. Howe, you should tell his Holiness about the little blind girl [Laura Bridgman] whom you educated." The Pope re- marked that he had been assured that the blind were able to distinguish colors by the touch. Dr. Howe said that he did not believe this. His opin- ion was that if a blind person could distinguish a stuff of any particular color, it must be through some effect of the dye upon the texture of the cloth.

The Pope said that he had heard there had been few Americans in Europe during the past season, and had been told that they had been kept at home by the want of money, for which he made the familiar sign with his thumb and fore- finger. Apropos of I forget what, he remarked, " Chi mi sente dare la benedizione del balcone di san Pietro intende ch' io non sono un giovinotto," " Whoever hears me give the benediction from the balcony of St. Peter's will understand that I am not a youth." The audience concluded, the Pope obligingly turned his back upon us, as if to exam- ine something lying on the table which stood be- hind him, and thus spared us the inconvenience of bowing, curtsying, and retiring backward.

I remember to have heard of a great floral fes- tival held not long after this time at some village near Rome. Among other exhibits appeared a medallion of his Holiness all done in flowers, the

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nose being made rather bright with carnations. The Pope visited the show, and on seeing the me- dallion exclaimed, laughing, " Son brutto da vero, manon cosi, " I am ugly indeed, but not like this."

The experience of our winter in Rome could not be repeated at this day of the world. The Rome of fifty-five years ago was altogether me- diaeval in its aspect. The great inclosure within its walls was but sparsely inhabited. Convent gardens and villas of the nobility occupied much space. The city attracted mostly students and lovers of art. The studios of painters and sculp- tors were much visited, and wealthy patrons of the arts gave orders for many costly works. Such glimpses as were afforded of Roman society had no great attraction other than that of novelty for persons accustomed to reasonable society else- where. The strangeness of titles, the glitter of jewels, amused for a time the traveler, who was nevertheless glad to return to a world in which ceremony was less dominant and absolute.

Among the frequent visitors at our rooms were the sculptor Crawford, Luther Terry, and Free- man, well known then and since as painters of merit. Between the first named of these and the elder of my two sisters an attachment sprang up, which culminated in marriage. Another artist of repute, Tormer by name, often passed the evening with us. He was somewhat deformed, and our

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man-servant always announced him as " Quel gob- betto, signor," " That hunchback, sir."

The months sHpped away very rapidly, and the early spring brought the dear gift of another life to gladden and enlarge our own. My dearest, eldest chUd was born at Palazzetto Torlonia, on the 1 2th of March, 1844. At my request, the name of Julia Romana was given to her. As an infant she possessed remarkable beauty, and her radiant little face appeared to me to reflect the lovely forms and faces which I had so earnestly contemplated before her birth.

Of the months preceding this event I cannot at this date give any very connected account. The experience was at once a dream and a revela- tion. My mind had been able to anticipate some- thing of the achievements of human thought, but of the patient work of the artist I had not had the smallest conception.

We visited, one day, the catacombs of St. Calix- tus with a party of friends, among whom was the then celebrated Padre Machi, an ecclesiastic who was considered a supreme authority in this depart- ment of historic research. Acting as our guide, he pointed out to us the burial-places of martyrs, distinguished by the outline of a palm rudely impressed on the tufa out of which the various graves have been hollowed. We explored with him the little chapels which bear witness to the

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ancient holding of religious services in this dark underground city of the dead. In these chapels the pictured emblem of the fish is often met with. Scholars do not need to be reminded that the Greek word Ix^vs was adopted by the early Chris- tians as an anagram of the name and title of their leader. Each of us carried a lighted taper, and we were careful to keep well together, mindful of the danger of losing ourselves in the depths of these vast caverns. A story was told us of a party which was thus lost, and could never be found again, although a band of music was sent after them in the hope of bringing them into safety. While we were giving heed to the instructive discourse of Padre Machi, a mischievous youth of the company came near to me and said in a low voice, " Has it occurred to you that if our guide should suddenly die here of apoplexy, we should never be able to find our way out .-' " This thought was dreadful indeed, and I confess that I was very thankful when at last we emerged from the depths into the blessed daylight.

Among the wonderful sights of that winter, I recall an evening visit to the sculpture gallery of the Vatican, where the statues were shown us by torchlight. I had not as yet made acquaintance with those marble shapes, which were rendered so lifelike by the artful illumination that when I saw them afterward in the daylight, it seemed to me that they had died.

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My husband visited one day the Castle of St Angelo, which was then not only a fortress but also a prison for political offenders. As he passed through one of the corridors, a young man from an inner room or cell rushed out and addressed him, apparently in great distress of mind. He cried, " For the love of God, sir, try to help me ! I was taken from my home a fortnight since, I know not why, and was brought here, where I am detained, utterly ignorant of the grounds of my arrest and imprisonment." This incident disturbed my husband very much. Of course, he could do nothing to aid the unfortunate man.

We were invited, one evening, to attend what the Romans stUl call an "accademia," /. e. a sort of literary club or association. It was held in what appeared to be a public hall, with a platform on which were seated those about to take part in the exercises of the evening. Among these were two cardinals, one of whom read aloud some Greek verses, the other a Latin discourse, both of which were applauded. After or before these, I cannot remember which, came a recitation from a once famous improvisatrice, Rosa Taddei. She is mentioned by Sismondi in one of his works as a young person, most wonderful in her perform- ance. She was now a woman of middle age, wearing a sober gown and cap. The poem which she read was on the happiness to be derived from

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a family of adopted children. I remember its conclusion. He who should give himself to the care of other people's children would be entitled to say : —

" Formal questa famiglia Sol colla mia virtu."

" I built myself this family solely by my own merit."

The performances concluded with a satirical poem given by a layman, and describing the indig- nation of an elegant ecclesiastic at the visit of a man in poor and shabby clothes. His complaint is answered by a friend, who remarks : —

" La vostra eccellenza Vorrebbe tutti i poverelli ricchi."

" Your Excellency would have every poor fellow rich."

The presence of the celebrated phrenologist, George Combe, in Rome at this time added much to Dr. Howe's enjoyment of the winter, and to mine. His wife was a daughter of the great actress, Mrs. Siddons, and was a person of excel- lent mind and manners. Observing that she al- ways appeared in black, I asked one day whether she was in mourning for a near relative. She replied, rather apologetically, that she adopted this dress on account of its convenience, and that English ladies, in traveling, often did so.

I remember that Fanny Kemble, who was a cousin of Mrs. Combe, once related the following

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anecdote to Dr. Howe and myself : " Cecilia [Mrs. Combe] had grown up in her mother's shadow, for Mrs. Siddons was to the last such a social idol as to absorb the notice of people wherever she went, leaving little attention to be bestowed upon her daughter. This was rather calculated to sour the daughter's disposition, and naturally had that effect." Mrs. Kemble then spoke of a visit which she had made at her cousin's house after her marriage to Mr. Combe. In taking leave, she could not refrain from exclaiming, " Oh, Cecilia, how you have improved ! " to which Mrs. Combe replied, " Who could help improving when living with perfection .-' "

Dr. Howe and Mr. Combe sometimes visited the galleries in company, viewing the works therein contained in the light of their favorite theory. I remember having gone with them through the great sculpture hall of the Vatican, listening with edification to their instructive conversation. They stood for some time before the well-known head of Zeus, the contour and features of which ap- peared to them quite orthodox, according to the standard of phrenology.

In this last my husband was rather an enthusi- astic believer. He was apt, in judging new ac- quaintances, to note closely the shape of the head, and at one time was unwilling even to allow a woman servant to be engaged until, at his request,

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she had removed her bonnet, giving him an oppor- tunity to form his estimate of her character or, at least, of her natural proclivities. In common with Horace Mann, he held Mr. Combe to be one of the first intelligences of the age, and esteemed his work on "The Constitution of Man" as one of the greatest of human productions.

When, in the spring of 1844, I left Rome, in company with my husband, my sisters, and my baby, it seemed like returning to the living world after a long separation from it. In spite of all its attractions, I was glad to stand once more face to face with the belongings of my own time.

We journeyed first to Naples, which I saw with delight, thence by steamer to Marseilles, and by river boat and diligence to Paris.

My husband's love of the unusual must, I think, have prompted him to secure passage for our party on board the little steamer which carried us well on our way to Paris. Its small cabin was without sleeping accommodations of any kind. As the boat always remained in some port overnight, Dr. Howe found it possible to hire mattresses for us, which, alas, were taken away at daybreak, when our journey was resumed.

Of the places visited on our way I will mention only Avignon, a city of great historic interest, retaining little in the present day to remind the traveler of its former importance. My husband

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here found a bricabrac shop, containing much curious furniture of ancient date. Among its contents were two cabinets of carved wood, which so fascinated him that, finding himself unable to decide in favor of either, he concluded to purchase both of them. The dealer of whom he bought them promised to have them packed so solidly that they might be thrown out of an upper win- dow without sustaining any injury, adding, " Et de plus, j'ecrirai la dessus ' tres fragile ' " (And in addi- tion, I will mark it "very fragile "), which amused my husband. He had justifi.ed this purchase to me by reminding me that we should presently have our house to furnish. Indeed, the two cabi- nets proved an excellent investment, and are as handsome as ever, after much wear and tear of other household goods.

We made some stay in Paris, of which city I have chronicled elsewhere my first impressions. Among these was the pain of hearing a lecture from Philarete Chasles, in which he spoke most disparagingly of American literature, and of our country in general. He said that we had con- tributed nothing of value to the world of letters. Yet we had already given it the writings of Irving, Hawthorne, Emerson, Longfellow, Bryant, and Poe. It is true that these authors were little, if at all, known in France at that time ; but the speaker, projDosing to instruct the public, ought to have

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informed himself concerning that whereof he assumed to speak with knowledge.

Dr. Howe attended one of the official receptions of M. Guizot, who was prime minister at this time. I tried to persuade him to wear the decorations given him by the Greek government in recognition of his services in the Greek revolution, but he refused to do so, thinking such ornaments unfit- ting a republican. I had the pleasure of witness- ing one of the last performances of the celebrated dansejise, Madame Taglioni. She it was of whom one of the same profession said, "Nous autres, nous sautons et nous tombons, mais elle monte et elle descend." The ballet was " La Sylphide," in which she had achieved one of her earliest tri- umphs. Remembering this. Dr. Howe found her somewhat changed for the worse. I admired her very much, and her dancing appeared to me char- acterized by a perfection and finish which placed her beyond competition with more recent favorites.

I was fortunate also in seeing Mademoiselle Rachel in " La Czarina," a part which did not give full scope for her great talent. The demerits of the play, however, could not wholly overcloud the splendor of her unique personality, which at mo- ments electrified the audience.

Our second visit to England, in the autumn of the year 1844, on the way back to our own coun- try, was less brilliant and novel than our first, but

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scarcely less in interest. We had received several invitations to visit friends at their country resi- dences, and these opened to us the most delight- ful aspect of English hospitality. The English are nowhere so much at home as in the country, and they willingly make their visitors at home also.

Our first visit was at Atherstone, then the resi- dence of Charles Nolte Bracebridge, one of the best specimens of an English country gentleman of the old school. His wife was a very accom- plished gentlewoman, skillful alike with pencil and with needle, and possessed of much literary culture. We met here, among other guests, Mr. Henry Reeve, well known in the literary society of that time. Mrs. Bracebridge told us much of Flor- ence Nightingale, then about twenty-four years old, already considered a person of remarkable char- acter. Our hosts had visited Athens, and sympa- thized with my husband in his views regarding the Greeks. They were also familiar with the farther East, and had brought cedars from Mount Lebanon and Arab horses from I know not where.

Atherstone was not far from Coventry. Mr. Bracebridge claimed descent from Lady Godiva, and informed me that a descendant of Peeping Tom of Coventry was still to be found in that place. He himself was lord of the manor, but had neither son nor daughter to succeed him. He

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told me some rather weird stories, one of which was that he had once waked in the night to see a female figure seated by his fireside. I think that the ghost was that of an old retainer of the family, or possibly an ancestress. An old pro- phecy also had been fulfilled with regard to his property. This was that when a certain piece of land should pass from the possession of the family, a small island on the estate would cease to exist. The property was sold, and the island somehow became attached to the mainland, and as an island ceased to exist.

My two sisters accompanied Dr. Howe and my- self in the round of visits which I am now record- ing. They were young women of great personal attraction, the elder of the two an unquestioned beauty, the younger gifted with an individual charm of loveliness. They were much admired among our new friends. Thomas Appleton fol- lowed us at one of the houses in which we stayed. He told me, long afterwards, that he was asked at this time whether there were many young ladies in America as charming as the Misses Ward.

Mrs. Bracebridge in speaking to me of Florence Nightingale as a young person likely to make an exceptional record, told me that her mother rather feared this, and would have preferred the usual conventional life for her daughter. The father was a pronounced Liberal, and a Unitarian.

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While we were still at Atherstone, we received an invitation to pass a few days with the Night- ingale family at Emblee, and betook ourselves thither. We found a fine mansion of Elizabethan architecture, and a cordial reception. The family consisted of father and mother and two daughters, both born during their parents' residence in Italy, and respectively christened Parthenope and Flor- ence, one having first seen the light in the city whose name she bore, the other in Naples.

Of the two, Parthenope was the elder ; she was not handsome, but v^diS piguante and entertaining. Florence, the younger sister, was rather elegant than beautiful ; she was tall and graceful of figure, her countenance mobile and expressive, her conversation most interesting. Having heard much of Dr. Howe as a philanthropist, she resolved to consult him upon a matter which she already had at heart. She accordingly requested him one day to meet her on the following morning, before the hour for the family breakfast. He did so, and she opened the way to the desired conference by saying, " Dr. Howe, if I should determine to study nursing, and to devote my life to that profes- sion, do you think it would be a dreadful thing } "

" By no means," replied my husband, " I think that it would be a very good thing."

So much and no more of the conversation Dr. Howe repeated to me. We soon heard that Miss

FLOREN'CE NIGHTINGALE

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Florence was devoting herself to the study of her predilection ; and when, years after this time, the Crimean war broke out, we were among the few who were not astonished at the undertaking which made her name world famous.

Just before our final embarkation for America, we passed a few days with the same friends at Lea Hurst, a pretty country seat near IMalvern. There we met the well-known historian, Henry Hallam, celebrated also as the father of Tenny- son's lamented Arthur. " Martin Chuzzlewit " had recently appeared, and I remember that Mr. Hallam read aloud with much amusement the famous transcendental episode beginning, "To be introduced to a Pogram by a Hominy," Mr. Hallam asked me whether talk of this sort was ever heard in transcendental circles in America. I was obliged to confess that the caricature was not altogether without foundation.

Soon after reaching London for the second time, we were invited to visit Dr. and Mrs. Fowler at Salisbury. The doctor was much interested in anthropology and kindred topics, and my husband found in him a congenial friend. The house was a modest one, but the housekeeping was generous and tasteful. As Salisbury was a cathedral town, the prominent people of the place naturally be- longed to the Anglican Church. At the Fowlers' hospitable board we met the bishop, the dean, the rector, and the curate.

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I attended several services in the beautiful cathedral, and enjoyed very much a visit to Stone- henge, which we made in company with our hosts, in a carriage drawn by two small mules. I inquired why they used mules in preference to horses, and was told that it was to avoid the tax imposed upon the latter. Stonehenge was in the district of Old Sarum, once a rotten borough, as certain places in England were termed which, with little or no population, had yet the right to be represented in Parliament. Dr. Fowler was familiar with the ancient history of the place, which, as we saw it, contained nothing but an area of desolate sand. The wonderful Druidical stones of Stonehenge commanded our attention. They are too well known to need description. Our host could throw no light upon their history, which belongs, one must suppose, with that of kindred constructions in Brittany,

Bishop Denison, at the time of our visit, was still saddened by the loss of a beloved wife. He invited us to a dinner at which his sister, Miss Denison, presided. The dean and his wife were present, the Fowlers, and one or two other guests. To my surprise, the bishop gave mc his arm and conducted me to the table, where he seated me on his right, Mrs. Fowler afterwards remarked to me, "How charming it was of the bishop to take you in to dinner. As an American you have

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no rank, and are therefore exempt from all ques- tions of precedence."

Mrs. Fowler once described to me an intimate little dinner with the poet Rogers, for which he had promised to provide just enough, and no more. Each dish exactly matched the three convives. Half of a chicken sufficed for the roast. As his usual style of entertainment was very elegant, he probably derived some amusement from this un- necessary economy.

We left Salisbury with regret, Dr. Fowler giv- ing Dr. Howe a parting injunction to visit Rother- hithe workhouse, where he himself had seen an old woman who was blind, deaf, and crippled. My husband made this visit, and wrote an account of it to Dr. Fowler.i He read this to me before

1 This old woman was one of a number of trebly-afflicted persons — deaf, dumb, and blind — whom Dr. Howe found time to visit on this wedding trip, beginning their instruction himself in some cases, and interesting persons in the neighborhood in carrying it on. In his report of the Institution for the Blind, written after his return from Europe in 1844, he gives an ac- count of these cases, closing with an eloquent appeal in behalf of these neglected and suffering members of the human family.

" And here the question will recur to you (for I doubt not it has occurred a dozen times already), Can nothing be done to dis- inter this human soul ? It is late, but perhaps not too late. The whole neighborhood would rush to save this woman if she were buried alive by the caving in of a pit, and labor with zeal until she were dug out. Now if there were one who had as much patience as zeal, and who, having carefully observed how a little child learns language, would attempt to lead her gently through the

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sending it. In the mischief of which I was then full to overflowing, I wrote a humorous travesty of Dr. Howe's letter in rhyme, but when I showed it to him, I was grieved to see how much he seemed pained at my frivolity.

Dear Sir, I went south

As far as Portsmouth, And found a most charming old woman,

Delightfully void

Of all that 's enjoyed By the animal vaguely called human.

She has but one jaw, Has teeth like a saw, Her ears and her eyes I delight in :

same course, he might possibly awaken her to a consciousness of her immortal nature. The chance is small indeed ; but with a smaller chance they would have dug desperately for her in the pit ; and is the life of the soul of less import than that of the body?

" It is to be feared that there are many others whose cases are not known out of their own families, who are regarded as beyond the reach of help, and who are therefore left in their awful deso- lation.

" This ought not to be, either for the good of the sufferers, or of those about them. It is hardly possible to conceive a case in which some improvement could not be effected by patient per- severance ; and the effort ought to be made in every one of them.

" The sight of any being, in human shape, left to brutish ignorance, is always demoralizing to the beholders. There floats not upon the stream of life any wreck of humanity so utterly shattered and crippled that its signals of distress should not challenge attention and command assistance."

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The one could not hear Tho' a cannon were near, The others are holes with no sight in.

Her cinciput lies

Just over her eyes, Not far from the bone parietal ;

The crown of her head,

Be it vulgarly said, Is shaped like the back of a beetle.

Destructiveness great

Combines with conceit In the form of this wonderful noddle,

But benev'lence, you know.

And a \axg& philopro Give a great inclination to coddle.

And SO on.

CHAPTER VIII

FIRST YEARS IN BOSTON

In the autumn of 1844 we returned from our wedding journey, and took up our abode in the near neighborhood of the city of Boston, of which at intervals I had already enjoyed some glimpses. These had shown me Margaret Fuller, holding high communion with her friends in her well-re- membered conversations ; Ralph Waldo Emerson, who was then breaking ground in the field of his subsequent great reputation ; and many another who has since been widely heard of. I count it as one of my privileges to have listened to a single sermon from Dr. Channing, with whom I had some personal acquaintance. I can remember only a few passages. Its theme must have been the divine love ; for Dr. Channing said that God loved black men as well as white men, poor men as well as rich men, and bad men as well as good men. This doctrine was quite new to me, but I received it gladly.

The time was one in which the Boston commu- nity, small as it then was, exhibited great dif- ferences of opinion, especially regarding the new

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transcendentalism and the anti-slavery agitation, which were both held much in question by the public at large. While George Ripley, moved by a fresh interpretation of religious duty, was endeav- oring to institute a phalanstery at Brook Farm, the caricatures of Christopher Cranch gave great amusement to those who were privileged to see them. One of these represented Margaret Ful- ler driving a winged team attached to a chariot on which was inscribed the name of her new peri- odical, "The Dial," while the Rev. Andrews Nor- ton regarded her with holy horror. Another illustrated a passage from Mr. Emerson's essay on Nature — "I play upon myself. I am my own music " — by depicting an individual with a nose of preternatural length, pierced with holes like a flageolet, upon which his fingers sought the intervals. Yet Mr. Cranch belonged by taste and persuasion among the transcendentalists.

As my earliest relations in Boston were with its recognized society, I naturally gave some heed to the views therein held regarding the transcen- dental people. What I liked least in these last, when I met them, was a sort of jargon which characterized their speech. I had been taught to speak plain and careful English, and though always a student of foreign languages, I had never thought fit to mix their idioms with those of my native tongue. Apropos of this, I remember that

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the poet Fitz-Greene Halleck once said to me of Margaret Fuller, "That young lady does not speak the same language that I do, — I cannot understand her." Mr. Emerson's English was as new to me as that of any of his contemporaries ; but in his case I soon felt that the thought was as novel as the language, and that both marked an epoch in literary history. The grandiloquence which was common at that time now appears to me to have been the natural expression of an ex- hilaration of mind which carried the speaker or writer beyond the bounds of commonplace speech. The intellect of the time had outgrown the limits of Puritan belief. The narrow literalism, the material and positive view of matters highly spiritual, ab- stract, and indeterminate, which had been handed down from previous generations, had become irre- ligious to the foremost minds of that day. They had no choice but to enter the arena as champions of the new interpretation of life which the cause of truth imperatively demanded.

I speak now of the transcendental movement as I had opportunity to observe it in Boston, Let us not ignore the fact that it was a world move- ment. The name seems to have been borrowed from the German phraseology, in which the philo- sophy of Kant was termed "the transcendental philosophy." More than this, the breath which kindled among us this new flame of hope and

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aspiration came from the same source. For this was the period of Germany's true glory. Her intellectual radiance outshone and outlived the military meteor which for a brief moment obscured all else to human vision. The great vitality of the German nation, the indefatigable research of its learned men, its